IFSC Climbing World Cup Munich 2018 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women
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- Опубликовано: 19 ноя 2024
- USA Viewers: please watch the full replay of #IFSCwc Munich finals on OlympicChannel.com: www.olympiccha...
All the information about the event on the Munich event page:
www.ifsc-climbi...
About IFSC:
The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
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The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!
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1:09:02 and that's exactly the top three medalists in the Olympics. I love watching them!
Climbing starts at 31:00
Raul Gonzalez The men start at 2:10:50
You are both greatly appreciated. 👌
Y
Thanks
WOMEN (MEN BELOW)
KIPRIIANOVA - KADIC - NOGUCHI - NONAKA - GARNBRET - GIBERT
#1 31:05 - 35:50 - 40:20 - 44:40 - 47:35 - 49:20
#2 54:55 - 59:40 - 1:02:00 - 1:03:50 - 1:05:30 - 1:07:20
#3 1:10:05 - 1:14:30 - 1:19:30 - 1:22:00 - 1:23:55 - 1:25:40
#4 1:31:00 - 1:35:35 - 1:40:25 - 1:42:40 - 1:45:00 - 1:47:10
VEZONIK - MAWEM - SCHUBERT - KRUDER - OGATA - FUJIWAKI
#1 2:11:00 - 2:12:50 - 2:17:30 - 2:22:15 - 2:26:40 - 2:31:30
#2 2:37:35 - 2:42:00 - 2:46:45 - 2:50:55 - 2:55:50 - 2:59:55
#3 3:06:00 - 3:10:35 - 3:15:15 - 3:19:45 - 3:24:15 - 3:28:50
#4 3:32:00 - 3:34:15 - 3:36:00 - 3:38:40 - 3:40:20 - 3:42:05
With love 💕 and to save you some time ⏳
Three years later but thanks mate
never watched a boulder comp before so maybe it's commonplace in the sport, but I'm actually so impressed by how good the commentary was- super chilled out but funny and thoughtful too. You can tell they just love climbing and are having the best time :)
Charlie Bosco and Matt Groom were and are, respectively, hosts of the EpicTV Climbing Daily show. Great RUclips channel if you're interested in outfoor news!
same for me ;D
“Forget any sport this is as exciting as it can get” - rock climbing is life and I agree with you
It's felt in our bones & soul ❤️🌼
Janja spent a grand total of 2m10s on the wall (between starting and matching the top hold on each climb) in this competition.
ridiculous
spoiler warning please though :'(
Is this really a spoiler in regards to Janja? She is basically crushing EVERYTHING! :D
PotatoSalad11 should've unleashed her in the men's boulder.
@@blackmarlin3166 Please don't start that debate. Let's just take her for what she is, because that's great enough.
Janja, Akiyo and Miho are the best climbers here! It's so fascinating watching them climb with incredible strength and technique and have so much fun with it. I just started climbing and it's so motivating having such great rolemodels. Love them!
I really think Janja needs to be nerfed in the next year's patch.
please don't, i dig this meta
valve will put an update for her shortly
Na she got buffed
oh, man.. I`am from the future, you will be soooo disappointed.
@@it-o9910 I'm even farther from the future, super disappointed for sure :D
What an astounding women's final. Also shed a couple of tears for Miho.
Munich crowd is best crowd. Wonderful to see such appreciation for all climbers.
Big congrats to al the over all WC medalists. Glad to have Fanny Gibert there and see how much it means to her.
i have never been interested in climbing, and i've never climbed myself, but watching this really inspires me. how great of IFSC to host this whole broadcast for free on youtube!
Matt really complements Charlie's commentary. Get him to all the world cup rounds
yup, agree
Alex Khazanov was not bad as well
So much beauty and smiles on that W podium! So happy for Miho, even if I would have been equally happy to see Akiyo win. And nothing special to say about Janja: perfection, as usual.
wow, that's a podium in the women's comp - this year's overall world cup winner, the one with the most world cup podiums and the one who is probably going to take this record in the future
I think
1) Women are way better than routesetters think.
2) Men should do more slab training.
In the end I enjoyed both competitions.
I agree. The woman’s boulders were very easy for them.
Wow, I really like Janja - she smiles all the time and that makes her super sympathetic!
The final hold on M3 looked really risky for fingers, or am I misjudging it? Every time someone gripped it then swung it made me wince.
And Janja being insanely good: 47:23 1:05:23 1:23:45 1:45:05, wow.
Feel like the second to final hold looked worse considering the climber has to pretty much stick all the fingers into that crack.
Wow you're right, for the climbers with smaller fingers, who can actually get them in, it looks really risky (3:29:49). Definitely looks risky for fingers...
m
dw its fine
of course
Matt Groom is a really polished color commentator. I hope you can find a way to settle in with him for a while.
bouldering was unknown to me some days ago. and since watched some finals (men+female 2017+2018 most + some rockstars events). awesome sport they do. and i have a favorite. miho. i feel in love with her from the first vid i saw of her.
very interesting men's comp but simply awesome women's comp , need to watch it again. Cheers 4 sharing.
I really like the movement and control of how Miho Nonaka climbs. Looks almost spider like and i mean that as a compliment...
Women at 18:48, men at 2:10:08
Woman's boulder was impressive! Needed harder problems to better differentiate those top 3 girls though.
At this point, I'm not sure there is a way to tell their strengths apart. There is a reason why the podium is always the same.
Was Yaney Gambret on the wall for less than 4 minutes for the whole thing? Just incredible. Top 3 climbers in the womens so superb.
The women's final was absolutely fantastic. Great tension, great emotion, great setting, and it came down to the last boulder. Easily the best competition I've seen in years. On the other hand, the men's comp was a farce. Most climbers failing to even establish on the majority of the problems, M1 may have even injured more than one climber. I really feel like there is a lack of direction in the setting. Forget issues surrounding miscalculating difficulty - that is a very, very hard thing to get right - how is it that we keep having such aesthetically garbage, boring, frustrating problems set? Most of the men's comp was utterly boring with clearly frustrated athletes flailing for 4 minutes at a time. I've climbed and set for over 20 years and there's no need for it to be like this.
So true, dont know what the routesetters are thinking.. this is not the first time it s like that. Miss the older comp style boulders
pbandjos womens final was shit. The boulders were way too easy.
I agree the Women's boulders could have been harder, and perhaps you could have had a delicate crimping problem instead of two burly pinch problems. But those are minor critiques - the women's final was great to watch, the boulders were aesthetic, and the women all looked to enjoy the boulders, which is very important. In comparison, the men's was just as boring as could be. M1 was awful with 5 climbers frustrated and grabbing backs, shoulders, and knees after their attempts. M2 was equally boring. It is not a good show to see 40 missed toe hooks. M3 had a gimmicky / stupid start but the upper part was a good technical challenge. M4 was more aesthetic but obviously was too easy.
I both agree there is a tendency now to set routes that have the wow factor for spectators and look like a work of art like M2 but are somewhat ridiculous.
pbandjosh Boring finals, how is it a competition if we have 3 times 4 tops. Terrible setting.
Congrats Gregor! You deserve it
that body tension at 2:49:24, absolutely insane!
Great comp. Loved the M2 Boulder!:)
I just watched women's final that athletes made amazing !
Despite this, I didn't like those boulders which were overly similar to each other in my opinion.
hm. i am new to bouldering and i am wondering. if this are the best athletes, who is testing the difficutly of those courses or how is the difficulty calculated otherwise? some steps seem nearly impossible for them and others pretty trivial.
Part of bouldering is not just the physical ability. It's also figuring out how to finish a particular bouldering problem. I am fairly confident, that all participants could finish all the boulders, if it was set up in their gym and they had time to study it and multiple tries and maybe friends who coach and give idea. The tricky part (in addition to the insane physical ability) is figuring the course out and finishing it in the five minutes given.
sometimes, like in Innsbruck 2018 many climbers fail at the first step and just 1 or 2 participants get to the zone or top. So sometime they are "too hard" and sometimes "too easy"
This is the same question that the routesetters themselves try to figure out - how do they set a handful of problems that will separate the best climbers in the world? They usually get it right, but sometimes you see lots of flashes, other times people barely topping any boulders at all. It's a tough job!
Why does route setters underestimate women??? They deserved harder routes!!!!! Janja, Akiyo and Miho performed excellent i really love to see them climbing ❤️❤️
Next time let Janja compete with the men i think ^^
I think it'd be nice to let them all compete together.
I think then the difference would shine through. Was just thinking how much harder the men's boulders where. Would love to see how the men do on the womens boulders and visa versa.
Can we please not start that discussion? Clearly it leads nowhere.
Janja "ofcourse counter" > 9000
Contrats on the win :)
The commentators could not see why competitor 1 got up problem 1 and why so many failed. It’s obvious to me. He used a Gaston undercut with the left hand (not a press). Others didn’t try this.
What the hell are they all looking for in their bag and can't find it?
The Million Euro check they all deserve
Chalk
You never interview Miho.
i think its becouse she dont speak english like most japanese people unfortunetly. happy for her that she finally won the overall season :)
Some of her instagram is in English. She probably speaks fine.
There's a huge difference between writing and speaking
That is true, but even in the worst of cases she can scramble a few sentences for sure.
i've heard her lately... and i don't want to speak bad about her since i truly love her climbing, however her english is not very good to the extent i'd be afraid to interview her and publish the result. you'd really have to choose your questions wisely to get easy, short answers and less of an embarrassment.
on the other hand i'm really impressed about janja!
first time i saw her was in the la sportiva legends only comp before her first adult wc season competing against puccio, noguchi, cocksey aso - which she won... and damn was she shy, and didn't know what to say!
lately i saw her explaining the difficulties of several problems - still with a strong accent, but otherwise in surprisingly correct english. obviously she's not only a terribly good climber, but also a good scholar... borderline wunderkind!
i want to see magnus there
magnus mitdbø? if so, same
@@timnergaard3831 no he means sportacus
Pretty sure Magnus has retired from competitive climbing.
magnus carlsen?
This is insane.
Akiyo Noguchi won first place in the bouldering category of ASIAN GAMES...:)
What did the MC say at 1:24:14 that made Janja turn around? :)
Men's starts at 2:10:08
ฉันชอบ Akiyo กับ Miho
Was that Liam Lonsdale with the "snap" of photographers during the third boulder for the women?
too many flashes by the women
maybe, maybe not?!
the problem i see is akiyo, miho and janja being so terribly good and consistant compared to the rest of the womens field (puccio, coxsey and klingler in top form are missing) - so that , if you'd make the boulders harder, you'd probably see no tops from anyone except those three in a final...
@@seppstarthebest i understand that. truth of the matter is im an akiyo fan and was frustrated that because of one missed dyno and one mistake on promlem one Akiyo never had an opportunity to catch up. admittedly this happened to Miho as well in china. if you have 4 great climbers maybe increase the difficulty of the final problems. why would you make the final problems easier than the semi finals?
Janja ❤ 1:24:16
I tried rock climbing once....and I couldnt use my fingers for a whole week after tht....I just cant imagine the grip strength these ppl have.
I used to think the same, but grip strength actually builds fairly quickly compared to other types of strength. At least for me it improved much quicker than, say, strength for bench press or pull up.
roof designed by Frei Otto, you´re welcome
Route setting is all about dynamic movements now. It's frustrating that they can't just make a problem hard. It has to be gimmicky.
Such spectacular boulders by the builders esp in the men. Only one topping each of the two courses. That's what you wan't when you're building.
I suggest they show the way up with a 3D man as it was done for them to judge it was even possible in the 3D explanation of the wall for the mens.
Slovenia is a spider counrty :-))) see you soon in München
Did anyone else click the video to see if others complained about the mens setting?
Why are there 2 ISFC world cup for bouldering in 2018 ? Vail and Munich ?
Good job
Janja made for podium🤘
I absolutely endorse the sportsmanship of the women, especially being a soccer referee.
laaaag ....hope u will get finally on par with the sponsonts base requirements :)
41:25
❤️ for miho
Is it only me or were the mens boulders way trickier then the womens boulders?
same opininon. Trickier and more interesting
Catch as catch can Katja Kadic!
Gorgeous...
So sad Akiyo didn't take her 5th overall championship! She's my female GOAT
At 2:11:11 the commentator mentions that Jerney Kruder won the championship in the semifinal. Can anyone link to that I can't seem to find it.
Who designed these imposible boulders, did they try them themselves?
What do the two rightmost numbers of the standings mean? Like 2T(op) 4Z(one) X= Y=?
Who is on the thumbnail ?
Are the other athletes allowed to watch as the people before then give it a go? Seems it would be advantageous to go last if that's the case
Shifter they’re in a holding room until their turn. They can’t see what’s happening outside and the only clues they get are the cheers from the crowd and how long the previous climber was out there for
Why is the thumbnail of Hannah when she's not in this competition? Disappointing
What's with Shauna?
finger injury
Really, all this time? Because she's been out so long.. but she has also been posting bouldering videos on her facebook page...
she is probably waiting to be completely recovered and in top shape before competing again, just checked the starters for the world championships coming soon and she is not registered.
All womens boulders where quite similar and very physical, suiting Miho and Janja best. There was no chance for a more elegant but less physical climbers like Fanny.
So I did not like the womens route setting at all.
I did like the mens more, but the only real beauty was M2. M3 and M4 where too hard/easy.
Overall not very good setting for a final. It was all about the emotion in munich.
What is the meaning of the grip called "zone"? Thanks
Why do the men and women do separate boulders?
Glen Boonzaier in certain countries, they don’t think women should compare to men because people think men are stronger. Which isn’t always the case...
Why is there no subtitles ? There usually is some.
2:42:05. What's that now?!
are the mens harder put janja over there
1:06:09 omg!
2:38:30 the classiest way of dealing with drunk hecklers
Is Matt following in Charlie's footsteps and leaving epictv for ifsc?
Lol all the japanese boys with hair as if they just walked out of the salon.
WTF is with the camera choices, 25% of the time the choice of camera is horrendous.
weird route setting for mens
1:24:00 Those chalk hands on her pants.
2:11:08 mens
no sound in the end :-O soo poor, for so awesome Pics, ....WTF
Really sucked not seeing the athletes' reactions to Miho's win.
wow the men's bouldering was so boring, the routes are not exciting to watch, thats not even climbing, just tricky balancy moves, on the other hand, women's finals were incredible.
22:50 Ashima Shiraishi !
GEOდედუნები!
Should pause timer (within 90s) rather than continual countdown.
I don't get why the first two go so wild into the transition instead of slowly shifting their weight. there is no slope whatsoever in the starting section. Well i'm a bit bias as i'm 6.1, but still... I'm green and amateur and i'm pretty sure i could make that transition
Setters need to up there game. The setting seems too soft for these athletes. Anyone elce miss proper slab climbs?
2:16:22 an excellent f..... what? ahahaha
What on earth was up with the camera angles? Can't remember who it was but one of the women topped and just before she did the camera switched to a wide shot. Throughout during some really exciting moves the camera would just switch to a side angle and, yeah, you'd get a great look at one or two volumes but you couldn't tell what the climber was doing with the rest of their body! Great commentary, but absolute shit camera choices.
Lara Croft?
Tja. sLOVEnija rules :-)
Why do men and women have to compete separately on different kinds of problems? That's so 20th century! Why can't we all compete with each other?
Because men and women are anatomically different in terms of muscles. Of course there are many women as strong or stronger than men, but at the top level of athleticism men are biologically stronger than women.
Another thought. As a viewer, I would rather watch 8 boulders with 12 competitors, rather then 4 boulders with 12 competitors.
Some things to consider other then strength as well (because women tend to be lighter, it kind of negates the strength issue)
Men tend to be taller.
Points of balance in men are in their chest, where women are in their hips. It allows balance to be challenged just as much.
But my biggest argument has to be because of viewers. Sometimes 6 is too many on the boulder, I couldn't stand 12.
Sas
Always test the russians.... ALWAYS.
That music is just obnoxious...
Janja marry me??