IFSC Climbing World Championships - Innsbruck 2018 - Boulder- Finals - Women
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- USA Viewers: watch the full replay of the women's Bouldering final at #IFSCwch Innsbruck 2018 at OlympicChannel.com: www.olympiccha...
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W1 - Nonaka 10:25 | Gejo 19:10 | Pilz 23:55 | Noguchi 28:55 | Klingler 33:35 | Garnbret 38:18
W2 - 42:50 | 47:38 | 52:08 | 56:40 | 1:01:13 | 1:05:46
W3 - 1:12:12 | 1:17:18 | 1:20:09 | 1:24:55 | 1:28:51 | 1:33:40
W4 - 1:39:46 | 1:44:52 | 1:49:59 | 1:54:55 | 1:58:13 | 2:03:08
you are an angel, thanks!
Thank you very much. This made watching the whole stream a lot easier.
Appreciate it, helium
Much appreciated :)
I think there is still a lot of improvement possible in filming climbing competitions. Not being able to see the whole route and trying to figure it out for oneself is a huge bummer, as is showing the recap while Stasa sticks the dynamic move on Boulder 1...
first time i have watched Bouldering, and this is beyond Amazing!
Climbing starts at 10:25
Rock climbing brings out the most beautiful smiles, love it!
Bravo Stasa! :)
yeah, not so much for climbing performance (obviously still top level), but for climbing on sheer will spread across her fingers instead of skin... brutal.
Awesome setting, finally some boulders that could really differentiate between the great and the greatest.
Lol, no they couldn't. The 2nd boulder had 1 person get a zone and the other 5 get nothing - that basically creates no differentiation at all. The route setting was terrible. They were too difficult. Every single climber should be getting at least a top and the best should be topping all 4. That's ideally what the route setters want. They don't want to see no one getting tops on some boulders.
Pretty much the whole competition was decided on the problem 3, that's not great.
Its incredible how far apart Janja seems to be in front of the other competitors in terms of raw climbing skill with climbing & training getting so professional over the last years. That being said Stasja is by far the most fun to watch in my opinion. So much joy and positive energy sparkling in her eyes its fantastic!
Noguchi practicing her memes around 1:25:30
"When you stick the zone just right"
WOW! Janja is superb 39:49
Just a brutal set of boulders. Last years champion not even scoring one zone. Even Janja looking tired on the last problem. I realize the setters are facing a hard challenge making problems to separate the athletes, but this was a pain to watch. I'd rather have a final where separation is decided by attempts than watching people failing the same movements over and over.
World championship winner loses a lot of meaning when you can't differentiate between who has won the overall yearly standings in the past and who has won individual competitions. Championship means a season's worth of results in every other sport. That being said, highly entertaining to watch!
But exactly this already exists, the World Cups are what you just described.
The World Championships are one event every other year, where it comes done to your performance on that special day. Other sports also handle it exactly that way, e.g. Fencing.
My hands are sweating just watching this.
Janja deserve to be the 1st women winning lead and boulder this year. If the lead route had been more difficult, the time would not have decided a shit.
idiotic zone-placement on the 2nd boulder, i think - surely solving the first very hard problem of the boulder shouldn't be unrewarded!
Agreed. That bat hang was definitely crux.
Janja is a new android designed by Cyberlife
Lol
Good finals.
In my opinion that final was a bit sad to watch. The athletes look tired and trying the same thing over and over again. Not sticking the first move for 4 minutes for several athletes in a row feels a bit boring. Having said this, the route setters had to divide the field and the problems did just that. Not sure what to think of it...
I think the routes looked a bit risky for the athletes. that move with the shoulder, and the bat hang, are too extreme. i.m.o
What I saw was athletes suffering. Of course a world championship needs a bit of adversity, but this is just overkill. Competing in lead, speed, and bouldering in barely over a week, what's the point? Wrecked shoulder, fingers skinned, on the verge of tears, knowing you'll have to pull on again for combined right away? It's a sufferfest.
I think it would be better if it came down to the amounts used to top the boulders or the time spent, than having almost no one top them at all. I guess it's really difficult for the route builders. Just my personal opinion as an observer.
good commentary
WTF is wrong with you?!? SO Impressive!!! First time i watched a boulder Championship ever!
Well, that's pretty awesome: @54:00
Why is no one talking about the figure 4 from jessica
Does anyone know where I can watch this with german commentatory?
Stasa is the Queen
It can be torture for fans like me to watch the athletes struggle, fall, and fail so much due to the extreme route-setting.
You need thick skin in this sport :)
Very difficult boulders for women!
Janja as always top, but also Noguchi finished vey impressive.
.
I still don't understand what i suppose to see here...
@Rafael wong Ahhh that's why i feel weird... -_-'
Did any men do the same course?
No, the course changes. They have the men's finals on their channel too
1:01:30 wow
ORF stands for oarschloch Rundfunk
ok cool
Oh the clock is AGAIN not working properly, how is that possible?? A f*cking clock!
2:10:48 "FUCK YA!!"
루트 진짜 이딴식으로 안만들었으면 좋겠네. 두번째건 키작으면 아예 할수도없고 첫번째거는 저게 클라이밍이냐 벽돌밟고 달리기 점프지;
Noguci has a more power, but less coordination...
Couldn't even do this in zero-gravity.
не понимаю для чего нужен тренер в таком виде спорта
oh man...4minutes per boulder :/
such difficult boulders and their skin is so destroyed :O
World champs in climbing, and they're climbing plastic shapes on a fake wall. Very entertaining...
Janja is just pure talent and athleticism. 39:40 One of the coordination move i've seen.
Yes I have seen it as well!
i feel like the setters were trying to challenge janja, this is the first final in a while i’ve seen where she actually struggles on the boulders and really has to put all her effort in, unfortunately i feel like they should’ve set it more in range with the majority of athletes
Damn Janja got me hyped!! crazy accomplishment in such a young age; you rock girl! Much respect and love!!!
I’d probably start my stand-up act with :“Janja had a bad day at a climbing comp”
You need to win the audience fast or they can turn against you I hear...
Please bring back Kyra Condie into the commentator's box. She was amazing in the lead semi-finals!
Yea they are both great! It's cool having an athlete commentating for sure!
That final was a bit akward: no offense but in normal times the Japanese team is way above Stasa, Petra and Jessy, so clearly that final was not a normal time, which killed all the suspense as Janja could not really lose. Miho was injured so she was operating way below her real level, and Akyo was clearly not in a good day: had she done any zone in W1 or W2 like she would have normally done (or even 2 TOPS), she would have won, so Janja was takable today and not dominating the final. Don't get me wrong: I think Janja is the best climber ever, male or female, and she totally deserves her Gold, but saying that she dominated the field, or that she dominates every discipline like the commentators said, is not true: overall, nobody can even compete with her, but in lead Jessy is pretty much at the same level, and in boulder, Miho, Akiyo and Shauna are pretty much are the same level too: what is truly amazing with Janja is that she manages to be at the very top in all disciplines! Nobody does or has ever done that. Her emotion at the end was truly moving, you can sense all the work that was behind, so congratulations to the pretty Janja, the best ever! (but keep an eye on Japan: the young Tanii is so good that it is nearly scary sometimes...)
Amazing Janja!
Congratz and thank you :)
D KR and good job on the 0 speed!
Damn Janja, Miho, and Akiyo are amazing.
Hello ! Glad I coud watch it live. This was a nice world cup. I just wanted to make some feedbacks. As for me, the boulder's visualisation is worse than the previous one (we had time to try to analyse the boulder). The second thing is the focus on athlete's acquaintances is a bit useless, and especially when someone is climbing...
Otherwise great job ! Nice commentary
Pretty hard setting - only 5 tops and 6 zones out of 24 attempts.
Difficult but interesting settings in Innsbruck.
Much better setting. Its Been soft in alot of the world cups this year.
@@smyteyouall8256 No, it's way too hard. It's not fun to watch when they're all struggling like this. We want to see people getting tops, not everyone struggling to do 2 moves on every boulder. The 6th best female boulderer in the world didn't even get a zone. They should all be getting a top.
really agonizing and brutal routes.
watching a group of people struggling to really get off the ground, boring! Maybe they should just lower the difficulty ever so slightly so that we can actually see people getting up the wall.
I'm confused...
If skin and blood on the holds are issues for the first 5 climbers, must be also for the last one, even if is not necessary for igene/grip reasons. Otherwise the last one it is advantaged, without the obligation to tape between tries to stop the bleeding, that inevitably consumes precious time. It seems so obvious to me... Am I missing something?
I thought exactly the same... Maybe the judges just didn't see the blood?
It's not an unfair advantage. Starting the last in the finals is the privilege of the one being best in the semis.
Bojan Leskosek Exactly
But even if it seems unfair to some, it has not influenced the end result of this WC. Janja’s finger was bloody on B2, after she got the zone done. If judges told her to patch the finger, she would have more energy left for last 2 boulders.
You could see she left everything on B2. It completely exhausted her... :)
Really sucks that the system is such that you can get to the finals, where we want to see the best action, with no skin on your fingers (Like Stasa), and can't really do much.
I must have missed something... Why are they saying that Janja won both lead and boulder ? Isnt Miho the actual N°1 boulder female climber this year ? I'm confused !
World Cup is separate to the World Championships, the latter being a 1-off, the former being a season of events.
Oh right, thank you !
Todas muy guapas. Ya entiendo a algunos que empiezan a practicarlo sin razón aparente :)
That first boulder.... daaaaaayyyyuuummnn
climbing starts at 10:30
Didn't like this comp! I've seen how people complain when "parkour"(stupid because it has nothing to do with parkour) elements are added in men bouldering, but when it's added in women and only Janja is able to do it, everyone is praising her (justifiably)
really dont like the route setting in this one... too much dynamic moves, only 5 tops in one of the best female final lineups i have ever seen... this is really bad setting
Why is that really bad setting, they had to divide them and they did that. The setters knew that the finalist lineup was going to be the best of the best, so they set accordingly. Also the dynamic moves didn't really change the results (except for the number of tries), but the powerful moves did
Disagree. The Setting was very good. They got a good balance between hard, possible and entertaining. Compare this to Munich where the top three came out and almost flashed all 4 boulders.
Sorry but when the third place only has 1 top, and you only see 5 tops in 24 climbs than I dont find that very entertaining or fun to watch. The second route is one of the most idiotic I have ever seen and just a pain to watch.
@@Triggerboy78 but it forced great separation. Noone came close on boulder 4 apart from akiyo who flew up it. It showcased strengths and weaknesses of the climbers.
You really need to decide what you want. Too easy and everybody will top it. Medals will be decided upon a number of tries. Too hard and you may see some clear separation of styles and endurance. Then you need to think about Janja. Set routes just a little easier and she will flash them all while the rest may still struggle. I guess route setters need to go into a dangerous waters nowadays, forcing people jumping off of a finger pockets and risking their health, otherwise it gets too easy. Mind you, this is not your average gym. You need to work hard to find a route that will tame these girls.
stunning !
Српски учесник је прави спортиста! SRB!!!
mirin' that back and arm definition
why did the first one stop at 2 mins remaining?
because the timer died at 13:46 with 47 seconds remaining
they restarted it at 16:03 with the full 4 minutes
at 16:19 the caster says "Ok so we've just been told the clock is going to run from 4 to 2"
Nice Competition but the route setting was terrible... a littel bit more old school climbing would be much better and i think also more injury free for the athletes. This Dynostyle things are nice to look at, but it's more parcour then climbing.
What’s happen with Miho in the 1st boulder?
Clock stopped working so she couldnt see how much time she had left
Do these dudes only climb on artificial boulders, or are they also the best for natural rock climbing also?
Most of them train mostly for indoor. However they are still amazing on the rock. Petra did some very impressive ascends in the nature.
@@stefans4562 ascents
Juro, que en unos años voy a estar ahí...
Did it work out?
Is it a new season of American Ninja warrior or bouldering? I'm confused.
How is this not an olympic sport?!?!
It is coming in 2020. The climbers will compete in all three disciplines.
I dont really understand the problem with the clocks. and you cant give the climbers back their concentration. why is this still happening? and the first problem seemed to be only doable by large people so that is very lame.
スタッフ達のやる気のなさが最悪。
1:05:45 conoces a joe blakc?
best girls
СЛАВЯНЕ ВПЕРЕД!
1:07:00
52:40
Jessie looks so cute though
no comment
Great. I'm in love with all of them.
i wish i could climb to the top of these comments
I found you at the bottom
Woah nelly, Nonaka is pretty af isn't she?
Nothing happens for first ten minutes!
I'm using the timings kindly supplied by HeliumQ below. Recommend you do same ☺
Japanese is stunning.
2019
So hot these women.
Watching all these hot, talented and strong women is very inspiring. I think I'm going to sign up for bouldering classes!
So... did you go bouldering?