IFSC Climbing World Cup Tai'an 2018 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- History made for 1 nation and 2 medals for 2 others, watch the full replay of #IFSCwc Tai'an Bouldering finals from start to finish, the 2nd stage of the 2018 China Tour.
All the information about the event on:
www.ifsc-climbi...
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Akiyo and Miho are just a step above all of the other women at the moment. It’s pretty nuts.
Tactical Chunder Yes, but Janja and Shauna are out at the moment haha they are probably the top 4
Fanny Gibert also really impressive rn, but yeah the japanese women just seem to make everything look that bit easier
Shauna has been disappointing lately but she's only just back from injury so can't complain
4 tops in 5 attempts in both Chinese comps! So Janja or Shauna should have flashed all the boulders to win! I don't think anyone could compete with Akiyo on these two comps! 🤷🏻♂️
Great Competition ! Nice Boulders !
But PLEASE fix the microphone scratching, it just hurts while listening.. dont want to mute the commentators, because they always do a great job !
Was rooting for Stasa but man, Miho and Akiyo are just ridiculously strong here
To the commentators: I think you guys do a great job, but please look into preventing the audio from clipping when speaking into the microphones.
I second this you are a fairly big organization that streams and creates content. Good audio should be a top priority. The problem it sounds like is that somewhere in the chain a piece of equipment is clipping.
It's not clipping, they just need a pop shield on the mics
it's not popping that's the problem. Popping is distinct and short, this is continuous noise from too high of an audio input signal.
Oh, it does clip at certain times.
Luke
I hadn't got to the clipping yet. It happens towards the end of the men's part when the commentators are more excited and loud
i live for Miho and Akiyo's fruit dances
Thanks/ Enjoyed the commentary. Comp was good overall.
Chon | Sugimoto | Khazanov | Vezonik | Kruder | Fujii
M1: 21:52 | 25:45 | 26:50 | 28:55 | 30:44 | 31:43
M2: 35:27 | 39:53 | 44:20 | 48:35 | 53:04 | 57:22
M3: 1:02:40 | 1:06:00 | 1:07:30 | 1:09:28 | 1:12:10 | 1:13:41
M4: 1:17:34 | 1:21:49 | 1:26:10 | 1:27:54 | 1:31:55 | 1:36:28
Gejo | Färber | Condie | Gibert | Nonaka | Noguchi
W1: 1:47:57 | 1:51:50 | 1:55:46 | 1:59:55 | 2:02:02 | 2:03:25
W2: 2:05:20 | 2:08:30 | 2:13:05 | 2:17:20 | 2:21:33 | 2:22:51
W3: 2:25:12 | 2:29:20 | 2:33:35 | 2:37:53 | 2:40:30 | 2:43:51
W4: 2:46:18 | 2:50:28 | 2:54:51 | 2:59:08 | 3:03:56 | 3:07:56
nice
Bless your soul m8
You’re a hero
Miho, Akiyo and Jain together again on the show: now I can die happily!
Complain about route setting, commentating, camera work, time format, every time. You may be right, but come on, M4 was right on for exciting finish. It's easier to set for women as the field is consistent with the same players. It's harder to set for men as different competitors tend to make final. The commenting is ok, better than 3 years ago with the other guy. Some of the second commentators are good, for example, stasa viejo. Overall, good show.
i want to see the route setters do m2
They would flounder
I wonder if at 36:20 a knee bar wouldve worked
It was setted by Thanos i guess
The route setting for the men really was terrrible. Do they not get a bunch of climbers in to test it?
People should watch how setters work, there's enough videos about it, all the moves are tested by the setters! The difference is how they know the beta, and climbers need to figure it out and execute it in 4 minutes!
I feel bad for Kokoro. The silver medal was just a reach away man.
Womens start 1:47:57
Kunta Kinte thanks mate
Enjoyed Kai's commentary!
Rachael Jans I definitely think Charlie plus an athlete is a good combo for commentary. Decent amount of banter and climbing insights to satisfy most people!
Miho with the spongebob chalk bag xD I love watching the japanese climbers. Especially the girls. So incredible.
It would be great to improve the scoreboard to show the top and zone attempts for each problem instead of cumulative, it adds drama in trying to sort out how many attempts a climber has to improve their position on their current problem.
nice work from akyio
what is that noise at 2:53:33? great climbing from miho and akiyo as always, and a great performance from stasa
What the fuck Alex Khazanov?? Amazing
Mmmmm people timed out with the 4 minutes dead rule still make me angry.
Gabriele Bonetti At least it didn't end up making a difference for Fanny
Wow, I didn't think Khazanov's beta on M3 was going to work
Scratching microphone is horrible, especially when listening using headphones
2nd to last hold on M2 was a stupid idea
Charlie you're not even close...
49:40 isn't that a false start? at all the gyms i was the rule was that youre not allowed to touch anything but the starting holds and the wall before you start your climb.
edit: even more so for kokoros first try. i dont get how those two were fine but jernejs start at 53:45 was a false start
Patrick Wienhöft You linked the wrong start for Jernej. The pne you linked wasn't called a false start. His false start, though, was because he barely (and arguably didn't) touch the start hold with his left and before moving off the start hold. Also, after what you said first, I don't really see how you think any of these would be a false start. Neither climber touched anything but the start holds and the wall before starting the climb. They didn't use the crimp or teardrop sloper to get in position, they just used one extra like on one of the start holds to get to the point where they could get two limbs on each. Which is still only using the start holds and wall.
yeah, i phrased that badly. i meant that you have to go into the starting position with each limb only touching one starting hold. but reading the ifsc rules that seems to not be the case.
although i find it interesting the rules metion designated handholds and designated footholds separately. quote:
Each boulder shall have a clearly marked start which shall consist of:
i. Marked handhold(s) for both hands; and
ii. Marked foothold(s) for both feet.
there#s a bit of room for interpretation but to me it sounds like they are supposed to be separated. but i must admit i like it better with 4 undmarked holds as it gives the possibility for different betas as in M2.
I think that's just meaning that there must be 4 marked start holds for both hands and both feet, rather than saying it needs to be 2 designated hand holds and 2 different designated feet holds. Basically (at least how I interpret it) I think it's just saying not to set a route with only 3 start holds and have one limb dead hanging
I thought you can use whatever means necessary to get into the start position. When you get into the correct starting position, the boulder starts. Of course when all 4 limbs left the ground it counts as 1 try, doesn't matter if you manage to get into the starting position or not.
Hope I'm not mistaken here. If so, please correct me.
No, you definetely may not use any holds besides the starting holds to get into position
Calling the bonus hold the "zone" is pretty stupid.
Yeah, because it is. But hey, I'm sure till Olympia they change the name again, because what is a "zone"? I mean, seriously, who comes up with that stupid ideas + who votes then to change it? Next time it is called "banana bowl" or something. Just pathetic. + nobody gives a damn how it is called. You might call it just "intermediate", because when you not top the boulder, you may have got to the intermediate hold (and controlled it). MY opinion.
I heard that in USA comps they mark a boulder problem in 3 zones, rather than just one bonus hold. This format gives more reward to the climber who makes better progress in the problem. Obviously what IFSC is doing right now sounds a bit stupid because it's just a hold, not literally a zone. But I wonder if they would change it to the 3-zone format before the Olympics.
@@philipppuchner1115 if "nobody gives a damn how it is called" why are you so upset about it?
1:23:45 ....what were they thinking...
Why was 35:55 ok, yet 53:25 stopped?
He needed to get 2 points of contact on both starting holds, and he only got one hand on the right hold before he reached for the crimp
@@Pigmoneythe3rd He touches the right volume with both hands at 53:19 albeit shortly
@@stefanms8803 that's funny, I saw him make that tiny movement before I made the reply, and I didn't realize he touched the hold; I thought he just hovered his hand around it and realized didn't need it. I'd imagine it would've been even tougher for the judges to notice
1:26:59
WTF hahaha
Who ripped a nasty one at 2:53:35??
Again awful route setting for the men, two boulders that everybody topped and one that noone topped, just terrible.
yes, but M2 didn't look impossible like the one from prevoius comp...
45:25 "Oi, wanker! Use your brush, will ya'?"
The female commentatoe be like: "Yeah"
Can the commentator please 1) stop making predictions all the time 2) stop repeating whatever the route setters said to you 3) be able to provide updates on scores and not tell the guest "let's not go there yet" when they are clearly right 4) stop moaning about the camerawork which is much better than IFSC camerawork anyway...
Jing Tang sadly i dont agree, camera work has always been worst in china than other places also the commentators are doing a great job they need to talk about stuff that is what they here for
Also connection is pretty bad in china
1) What's wrong with that? Charlie has seen many World Cups with many of the climbers participating, he talked to most of them personally and knows some of their strengths and weaknesses.
2) I like the insight from the route setters and I'm sure many others do to. Things are repeated as some people join the Live Stream late or maybe missed it the first time. Also I imagine it's really hard to fill 6*4 minutes + breaks on untopped problems like M2 without repeating.
3) The scores are provided by the Chinese team which as was mentioned in the semis had some trouble with their connection. So providing them on screen is not in their hands and providing them via commentating is not enjoyable imo as its just a bunch of numbers thrown at you. Although I must agree that he could more often give a breakdown on what needs to be done by a climber to achieve some rank, e.g. "He needs to top in 3 or less attempts to win".
4) I didn't see it as moaning but rather as prevention against comments complaining about it. I think both cameraworks are fine, both are good in general but sometimes they're quite horrible, especially with some of the replay timings.
I for myself disagree. f.e. 2.) is very interesting. Also when he spoke to athletes and what they told him. If those infos are not there, he wouldn't really have much to say, so you might as well mute the video. Would be a little sad. I think Charlie makes the best as he can of it (limited ressources, co-commentators and infos).
If you don´t want to listen to this guy and appreciate more en detail analysis maybe our after worldcup reports on our channel will be something for you?
Men Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/YPyHutciizo/видео.html
Women Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/T6YxZpSQ1og/видео.html
feel free to check it out and let us know what you think of it!
cheers niki
The nonstop land namely marry because castanet prudently scream opposite a giant crate. statuesque, innocent hydrogen
Gawd. Charlie Boscoe is a terrible commentator. John Motson was a gem and Charlie's palid attempts to copy the great man are grating. He just waffles. How about a tital change and do away with inept "colour commentary" and have two pros or a a route setter & a pro.
Love the insightful commentary of Kai and the Russian.
Enjoyable sets. Expecting a certain something in the way the setting dictates the results leads to disapointment. Let the setters set and the climbers climb and see who is best.
Tough to set for the women with two competitors clearly better than the other four.
Yeah, I don't agree. Charlie is a great commentator. He is a perfect all around man. For the more technical commentary, you have the guests. 'Insightful' commentary of superserious proclimbers only every week without the cheerful comments of Charlie about town/people and interactions with athletes would get boring really quickly. The grass is always greener of what we don't have... I'm not saying other commentators would not be able to do a different, maybe even better job (however you define that) than Charlie would be impossible, just that I think people should stop shitting on the guy for no apparent reason other than complaining about 'inept colour commentary' and him attempting to copy the great man of whom I have never heard about.
Colour commentator plus athlete/coach/expert is a staid formula.
Charlie stacks badly against a plethora of better english colour commentators. Motson is a legend, Ligget in the TDF, Brain Moore & Martin Tyler, walker in F1, hemmings in rugby, balding in the olympics.
Boscoe does not stack up.
And in cricket amd snooker the commentary is largely only current and ex pros and works really well.
Its OK to disagree, mind.
If you do not know who John Moston is you do not understand the depth, history and wealth of colour commentary that Boscoe is up against.
Boscoe may develop and improve and he is head and shoulders above most yank colour commentators.
He is not forcing me to mute the feed just yet.
Simple answer, money. The IFSC have enough difficulty trying to put these things consistently, after all they tried to put the comps behind a paywall a few years back to unanimous rejection from the community. I can imagine trying to bring in big paying sponsorship deals is a tough job for what is in comparison to the like of football, rugby, cricket, snooker etc... is a tough sell. If they had a boat load of cash to spend on commentators I imagine they would have a pool to work with. I would be interested to know how much it costs to climb at one of these comps on a regular basis without individual sponsorship covering costs. I think Shauna and Mina ran a crowdfunding campaign a while back to allow team GB to attend due to funding changes. If you look into how they run the production for these events it is usually cut up between their own crew and a local broadcaster. Trying to watch some of the early asian based comps a few years back was pointless as the production was terrible and pre-paywall fiasco they were having a lot of difficulties trying to get RUclips live to work consistently.
If you don´t want to listen to this guy and appreciate more en detail analysis maybe our after worldcup reports on our channel will be something for you?
Men Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/YPyHutciizo/видео.html
Women Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/T6YxZpSQ1og/видео.html
feel free to check it out and let us know what you think of it!
cheers niki
Charlie needs to go... my vote is liam Lonsdale
No, PLEASE NOT!! I absolutely can't stand this guy. He is shouting ALL the time. If, then the commentator from the first lead worldcup 2015 in Chamonix, where Janja Garnbret first appeared (first senior world cup for her). Don't know in how many other WCs he was commentator, but he has more pep than Charlie, so that the Lead WCs became a bit more boring i think. But I also think that the WCs (no matter if lead or boulder) + the commentary got better until now. I also like the commentary and insides of Mike Langley, so the duo Charlie + Mike I like.
BUT whereever this Lonsdale guy appears, he is always shouting, all the time. Shouting way too loud + way too much bullsh*t! Sorry, this is my opinion. I've never got so annoyed, but when this guy appears, I have to mute. I dunno why he is always there anywhere and nobody shut up his mouth until now. Laways makes a face like a weirdo on drugs and then shouts around. Annoying, Please don't get this guy to comment at WCs. Anyway, if, he would be the stadium speaker or something. Luckily, I don't have to listen to that bs he is shouting. Oh, and did i mention he is shouting way too loud and all the time? And mostly just sh*t?
Climbing starts at 21:53 for the men and at 1:48:00 for the women
Merlin Wasmann thanks mate
mvp
thanks. I'm just wondering why the men go before the women. is there a coin toss or something?
@@hydra66 I don't think it really matters. I've seen women first in some.
Though it's a shame because group 2 doesn't get to see the first group climb! But it should have no effect.
Legend
That "WTF" was pure gold. It should be a gif.
where is it in the stream?
Mullac Odw 1h27
hahah ok yeah i see, cheers !
Really nice seeing the amity between all the male competitors pre and post competition, they honestly seem to appreciate each other's achievements and skills as much as their own. You can see how happy all of them are for Alex Khazanov, despite that meaning they aren't the winner because of him. He definitely deserved all the congratulations and hugs he got afterwards! True sportsmanship.
Akiyo!!!!
I recently started to boulder myself and its actually crazy enjoyable watching those tournaments !
As long as you have a chalk bag lol🖐💦
@@rayrayqbaby yup
Amazing form by Akiyo.
(spoiler)
4 tops in just 5 attempts!
Such a shame for Fanny on W4. I wish they hadn't scrapped the overtime rule but maybe kept a 30 second overtime or something. She deserved that top. I'm glad it wasn't crucial and she would have still got 3rd.
Get new mics please.
miho's right toe sneak on W3 finish was amaze
love how the commentators still slip up and call it the 'bonus'.
Yeah, because it is. But hey, I'm sure till Olympia they change the name again, because what is a "zone"? I mean, seriously, who comes up with that stupid ideas + who vote then to change it? Next time it is called "banana bowl" or something. Just pathetic. + nobody gives a damn how it is called. You might call it just "intermediate", because when you not top the boulder, you may have got to the intermediate hold (and controlled it).
MY opinion.
Philipp Puchner you had me at banana bowl.
How about the banana bowl zone, but the hold has to be shaped like a banana?
So annoying when Charlie keeps telling Kai "not to go there yet" with the scores, when he's clearly right
I noticed this too!
He was being kinda rude to him!
Why do the holds need brushing when the first climber steps up? Shouldn't they brush before the climbers start on a particular problem? Or do they want to make it fairer for the later climbers who will need to request a brush? Why not just brush before every climber?
idk for you but when I climb on fresh new holds, they feel about as slippery as worn-out blackened ones. maybe its a way to break them in a little bit but most importantly, it's a competition, you want to put all the chances on your side.
worst men's comp i've seen,; but really good womens
M2 Kruder (53:47): so it's allowed to use the volume to get to the starting hand hold?
Seriously need to sort out your sound system. Scratchy mics are not very pleasant to listen to.
ya,ya, yaya, yyyyaya, yayya, and ya, yayaa
Guess M2 was setted by Thanos
hahaha
Thanks for posting!
yeet
if you don´t want to watch the wholce comp again and get a more in detail analysis of what had happenend feel free to watch our reports:
Men Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/YPyHutciizo/видео.html
Women Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/T6YxZpSQ1og/видео.html
feel free to check it out and let us know what you think of it!
cheers niki
1:27:00 a great reaction for a big top haha
Yeah!!
Audio for the men's is not good, but for the women's portion they seem to have fixed the problem.
Main commentator: $something
Female co-commentator: Yeah
This guy has just too much chalk, terrible efforts there.
I was really hoping to see a dyno all the way to the zone hold on m3.
Anyone else think W4 looks like it has a turtle?
What happens if a problem is so hard that nobody can do the first move?
Nothing.
there should be bars on the side of each route for the climbers to use for getting down beside just jumping, they can easily injure their ankles or something. or is it easy going down?
49:00
M4 lol
וואי אלקס
Bring back 4 minutes plus you snakes :)
A bit disappointed with the men's final sets - yet again. I didn't mind that two of the boulders were topped by almost everyone easily. Rather, it's the setting style which is all about volumes, jumps, coordination and general parkour climbing you will rarely if ever see outdoors. It's rough seeing folks like Narasaki, Fuji, Hojer, Jonwon, etc all being sidelined by a bunch of tricky sets when we all know they would climb circles around most of the folks in the finals or any of the rounds if power sets were the norm. It's seems World Cup boulder climbing has sold it's soul to entertainment to become "popular."
kokoro and jonwon biggest competition folks out there, but hey just write something that sounds smart.
M2 and M4 were pretty much close to a classic boulder problems (no jumps, a lot of technique). Wouldn't say M1 contained too much parkour too... Good setting here imao
#parkouldering
These are quality broadcasts, thank you for sharing!
ישראלי הראשון לא?
In this video, Chon sprays something on his hand before he chalk up.
Do you have any informations about that?
Water, to avoid dry hands and injuries like cracks.
commentator talking about the cameras all the time was really annoying... maybe its just a difference of preference but i thought there shots were primo, shoutout to that chinese tv
If you don´t want to listen to this guy and appreciate more en detail analysis maybe our after worldcup reports on our channel will be something for you?
Men Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/YPyHutciizo/видео.html
Women Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/T6YxZpSQ1og/видео.html
feel free to check it out and let us know what you think of it!
cheers niki
who can remember the last time there wasn't an Asian on the men's podium.
Well asia is a big place. Plus the Japanese are killing it in recent years.
Who cares? They’re great climbers. Seems like other places need to up their game.
Technically Isreal is in Asia, soooo...
2016 Meiringen btw. That is if you count Rubtsov as European, which I would as he's from the European part of Russia (Moscow). But so our streak keeps going...
This feels extremely racist
Great commentary in general, but please try to stick to english natives or near-native speakers as 2nd commentator... its no fun to watch 1h of bouldering with a voice in your head, constantly searching for words and stuttering around, no offense, I wouldnt be able to do it either^^
If you don´t want to listen to this guy and appreciate more en detail analysis maybe our after worldcup reports on our channel will be something for you?
Men Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/YPyHutciizo/видео.html
Women Finals >>> ruclips.net/video/T6YxZpSQ1og/видео.html
feel free to check it out and let us know what you think of it!
cheers niki
Just to clear things: I was talking about the girl joining him at 1:50h for the women’s final...
Those competitions shouldn't be separated by gender. Miho and Akiyo are clearly underwhelmed with the "women's boulders". Let them compete against the men and us all see who is the real champion.
"I need help commentating the women's climbing... quick find me someone who doesn't speak English!"
Akiyo and Miho superb as always, very happy for Fanny to finally make the podium!