Nice summary for this topic which I believe is underrated. You should mention that these are usually long prints. Another variable is the line width that you set in your slicer, these can be less than the nozzle diameter for more detailed (and slower) prints. With a bedslinger, the print moves in the y axis so it will be more stable when it gets taller if the print is lined up in the same direction. It will be sensitive to the extruder’s touch (extruder moving in the x axis direction) when it gets tall. If it was printing with the part aligned with the x axis the y axis motion will have both bed movement (momentum) and extruder friction added to deflection force.
When printing lithophanes vertically on a bed-slinger, I'm in the camp that you want them parallel to the motion of the bed. My reasoning is to avoid the print from wobbling at the top when printing. To demonstrate this, find a short (like 4"-6" or 100mm-150mm) ruler. Hold it vertically by the bottom, just pinching it enough to hold onto it. First move your hand back and forth with the ruler parallel to the movement. Feel how stable the ruler is. Now move your hand back and forth with the ruler perpendicular to the movement. Feel how much the ruler wants to flop back and forth. You can even feel this shaking in the two directions. When printing vertically, my interpretation of this experiment, the lithophane will feel the same motion with the bed movement.
The reason those first prints had lines was not because of INFILL... the reason was they were printed FLAT and no litho should ever be printed FLAT EVER as those lines are the top last layer of the print and is the nozzle lines on any top surface of a print. And then when shining a light through them will haver FLAT spots as you lost a LOT of IMAGE QUALITY & DETAIL by printing flat.
Great overview on all 3. Keep up the good work!
Nice summary for this topic which I believe is underrated. You should mention that these are usually long prints.
Another variable is the line width that you set in your slicer, these can be less than the nozzle diameter for more detailed (and slower) prints.
With a bedslinger, the print moves in the y axis so it will be more stable when it gets taller if the print is lined up in the same direction. It will be sensitive to the extruder’s touch (extruder moving in the x axis direction) when it gets tall. If it was printing with the part aligned with the x axis the y axis motion will have both bed movement (momentum) and extruder friction added to deflection force.
When printing lithophanes vertically on a bed-slinger, I'm in the camp that you want them parallel to the motion of the bed. My reasoning is to avoid the print from wobbling at the top when printing. To demonstrate this, find a short (like 4"-6" or 100mm-150mm) ruler. Hold it vertically by the bottom, just pinching it enough to hold onto it. First move your hand back and forth with the ruler parallel to the movement. Feel how stable the ruler is. Now move your hand back and forth with the ruler perpendicular to the movement. Feel how much the ruler wants to flop back and forth. You can even feel this shaking in the two directions. When printing vertically, my interpretation of this experiment, the lithophane will feel the same motion with the bed movement.
hi
The reason those first prints had lines was not because of INFILL... the reason was they were printed FLAT and no litho should ever be printed FLAT EVER as those lines are the top last layer of the print and is the nozzle lines on any top surface of a print. And then when shining a light through them will haver FLAT spots as you lost a LOT of IMAGE QUALITY & DETAIL by printing flat.