WoW, thank you again I have learnt so much. The way you teach is so good, you just explain things in simple terms. I like the way you have no music in the background, I find this so annoying when you are trying to concentrate, Thank you again.
I have watched many of your videos and I have learned a lot. As a hobbyist I knew nothing when I got my cnc 4 years ago. Your video helped me get to the skill level I'm at today.
best aspire tutorial, you can explain very clearly and in detail, speak slowly so that it is very easy to follow and very easy to understand, thank you and thank you for the knowledge that you shared with us
Thank you very much! One reason I speak so slowly is because I do the closed captioning, and it's easier to do if I speak slowly. I hope the video helped you!
Mark, appreciate the amount of work that goes into these videos. Extremely helpful, especially for a newbie. Please keep up the tutorials. One of the easiest ones to follow along and packed with information.
This is proper teaching! I love your style Mark. No gimmicks, no ridiculous music and very well explained. I'm looking at buying 'VCarve DeskTop', ( can't afford the Pro version unfortunately ) ................ Been looking at your tutorial videos for quite some time now, don't know why I haven't subscribed to your channel earlier. But I am now! ; ) Thank you so much sir. TURK
@@MarkLindsayCNC Many thanks for the quick response Mark, very much appreciated ; ) My reason for not subscribing was purely down to not knowing if the Vectric software was right for me. But after trying various Open Source and free alternatives, I'm now seriously looking at VCarve deskTop. Thanks to you : ) So now I'm learning everything I can on the software before the purchase. TURK
Mark, Don't apologize for the length of the video. You explained everything in detail and I learned a lot about how to use the modeling tab and what the differences were. I have had VCP 9 for about 2 years and have barely scratched the surface of what I can do. With your videos, I am learning so much more. One last question, when you carve the letters, what if you wanted them to stand above the bottom like the rings? Thank you!!
Thank you very much, John. For that, I'm afraid you're going to need Aspire, because that gets into adding to the model in a way that isn't available in VCarve. Since I don't have Aspire, I don't have an answer for you. HOWEVER! If anyone out there knows of a way to do what John wants to do in VCarve, sing out! I'd love to find out for myself!
Awesome video Mark, my folks are having their 60th anniversary this month and this gives me some great ideas for making a plaque to celebrate it.... you are slowly but surely helping this old dog to learn a few new tricks... thank you
Thank you for this videoclip. I have learned from the video two other things that i was wondering about that i did not know. I think this will be my first CNC carve when my 1F comes. :)
The Zero Plane doesn't set the boundary of the model, or where the bit does the carving. That's done in the Roughing and Finishing toolpaths. You can set it to machine to the Model's Boundary, the Material's Boundary, or draw a vector around the area you want to machine, and have it Machine to that Selected Vector. I demonstrated Machining to a Selected Vector in my 3D Barn Star video, here: ruclips.net/video/3lvtm8iw0eY/видео.html
I've watched a number of your videos and they have been a great help. I do have a couple of questions. I don't know if this is the right place to ask the questions but I didn't know where else to go. The first question is: I bought some STL files from ETSY, is there a way that I could manipulate them (add to or delete from. The second question is: I'm pretty sure it was on one of your videos that you used some sort of adhesive masking in one of your projects, now I can't find it. Keep up the excellent work. You are a valuable resource.
Yes it is. I demonstrated the method (Circular Array) way back in episode 3 of the Vectric for Absolute Beginners series. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/Q28xlZW6UC8/видео.html
@@MarkLindsayCNC would this work for vectors that are not a single curve or circle? Like a zig-zag of a sine wave vector that you want text to go along?
Thank you so much Mark for this video. I was working on a project last night very similar to the example you used. It answered most of my questions. Back to the drawing board. This time I will know what I'm doing. Keep up the good work, you have helped me in many areas of Vcarve.
I have watched many of your videos and as always I leave with a much better understanding of the topic. I have been doing some 3d carving and have been reasonably successful I use vcarve pro 10.0 I am trying to better understand the zero plane I have added the zero plane in the modeling tab for my work and when i calculate the tool path the entire surface is milled by about .02 Do you turn the zero plane off when you preview the tool path as I only want to carve the model itself
That was a mistake on my part. When you apply the Zero Plane, it becomes part of the model. So if you choose to Machine to Model Boundary, it's going to carve the whole surface of the material that's covered by the Zero Plane. I corrected that in subsequent videos, but it was to late to go back and change this one. What I should have done in this video was create a vector boundary around the outside of the dish, then machined to that vector boundary.
So when you get to actually carving the text, and you have to switch out the bit and re calibrate x, y, and z, using a touchpad, how do you get pad on bottom of material for a true reading?
First, you don't reset your X or Y zeros when you do a tool change. You reset your Z zero after the tool change only. Your X and Y positions do not change. As far as where you put the touch plate in order to actually reset your Z zero is concerned, that's completely up to you. If you're setting your Z zero position to the material surface, you can do that anywhere on the surface you want to - it does not have to be in the same place you set your X and Y zero. You can put it on any area of the material that hasn't been carved away during the roughing or finishing toolpaths, or even a scrap of the same piece of material, off to the side of the project. It's 100% up to you.
These last two videos are very informative. Did not realize that changing the modeling resolution actually changed the G-code and the speed of the cut on the CNC! Question: why do you use a ball nose bit for the roughing path vs a flat bottom end mill?
Thanks Richard. To be honest, I use the ballnose because that's the way I was taught, and I never questioned it. I figure people who have been doing this for 20 years know a lot more than I do, so... After my mistake in calculating the toolpath with the end mill instead of a ballnose, I may give it a shot - at least on a roughing toolpath.
I have the same comment 9 months later!Never knew until last video that modeling resolution had any impact on final output, thought it was just for preview quality. Likewise, I’ve also always used a flat endmill for 3D roughing and then the smallest ballnose I have the time for for 3D finishing pass. Endmills with wood can have a 40-50% stepover vs 10-20% max on ballnose, so I don’t see why you’d ever rough with a ballnose. Great videos by the way.
You did it again @!@!@! GREAT job Mark. Thanks very much for the time you take to share your wealth of knowledge. (even if you used the wrong bit -- I just had to do that)
It might. That's one reason why I use screws rather than clamps. Planning how you're going to mount the material is a very important part of this, and between you and me, I don't think I spend enough time talking about that. I'll try to change that.
Hello Mark, I have a STL model I purchaced on Etsy. The STL model has a "Rope" border/frame around it that I would like to remove. I use Vcarve Pro, but just can't figure out how to remove or edit the STL model. Can you help?
I'm sorry, but you can't edit an STL, or any other 3D file with VCarve. That would take Aspire or another 3D modeling program to do. If you know anyone with a 3D modeling program, hit them up and ask them if they'd edit it for you, then save you a new STL file. Sorry!
Can you tell me if in this video he is working with a 3D file? The type of files I'm working with are just like his ( mine are from Design and Make as well as Vetric). He is using Aspire but states in the video that it will also work in VCarve Pro. How is this function supposed to work (Trim Objects)? I've even tried it on simple vcarve projects/files. I go through the processes as described and click on "Clear either inside or outside" and nothing happens. Anyway the link included is a RUclips video. Also if you look in the "comments" area. The last comment, someone states this function doesn't work in VCarve 9. I've sent this problem to Vetrics and they say it works in shop, and they asked me to send them my file and a link to the video. At this time I'm waiting on them to see if the file provided is doable or as I described to them the function doesn't work on any file in my version of VCarve Pro (which is version 9.518). ruclips.net/video/HKMQZoeoe00/видео.html
Another good one Mark! I would like to see an outside edge treatment; bevel or round over. Please do one sometime. . . or point me to a video where you have already shown one. - Jim
Thank you, Jim! I did a beveled edge treatment in one of my bitmap tracing videos back in February. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/n03muGANuT8/видео.html I haven't done a roundover edge treatment video yet. I need to get the right bits and give that a go...
Hello! I just purchased Aspire 10 for a VERY specific 3d carving need... what is the best specific forum to post details? Thanks Pete San Clemente CA USAF Retired vet
The absolute best place is the Vectric Support forum. You can find a link through Vectric's website. There are a ton of people over there that are more than willing to help. Also, don't forget that Vectric has a bunch of very good tutorials as well.
I definitely learned a lot from this video. It was worth every minute. It provided exactly what I was hoping for. I do have one question. When actually cutting the roughing and finishing pass, do you typically go with or perpendicular to the grain? Thank you again, great series!!
Thanks for checking it out, David. I'm going to use the two words folks dread - it depends. On some dense woods like hard maple, you can run with the grain. I like to run with the grain as it hides machining marks 99% of the time. For less dense woods like mahogany or softwoods like pine, you cant - it'll peel, rip, and splinter on you. On less dense woods, I tend to run at a 45° angle to the grain whenever I can, which eliminates the problem most of the time. If it's a situation where I can't run at a 45° angle, I run perpendicular to the grain.
As an example, what amount of time would this take to carve on your machine? I followed along and it tells me 24+ hours to carve on my machine! Does that sound right on a 12x12 piece of material?
Machining time is dependent on several factors - model size, total model depth, depth of cut per pass, stepover, feed rate, and plunge rate. Chief among those are the stepover, feed rate, and plunge rate. If you're cutting a 10 inch diameter model with a stepover of 8% of the bit's cutting diameter, that bit is a 1/16 inch diameter ball nose, and your feed rate and plunge rates are pretty conservative, it could take quite a while. For that model, I would guess at about 10 hours for an 11 inch diameter project. I set my feed rate at 50 ipm, my plunge rate at 25 ipm, and my stepover at 8% using a 1/16 inch diameter tapered ballnose. Also, in the Toolpath Summary page(that gives you the time estimate) set your rapid rate to 200 ipm, and scale factor to 1 and see what that says. It doesn't mean it'll move at 200 ipm - it'll just use that rapid rate to estimate times.
@@MarkLindsayCNC OK, thanks Mark. I had to block off a couple holes on a 3D model that is a 2 sided job. I only want the holes to be carved on the 2nd side operation, so on the first side, I brought in 2 rectangular pcs of clip art and made their size and thickness work and merged. Did the trick.
Mark i have a question. When downloading a plan from like design and make they ask what type of file do you want. I'm using Vcarve pro 9.5. What should I use. Thanks Carl
Mark thank you for your dedication to help and you're easy to understand presentation. Can parts of a preprepared 3d model be deleted? I bought a guitar 3d model and want to make a small change to the model.
Great Video Mark, just watched it for a second time. A challenge, change it to a 2 sided model, maybe make the lip a little larger and carve out the bottom of the plate so the project looks like a plate. Is this possible with Vcarve?
I have a teaser and a spoiler for you. The Teaser: Yes, it's possible. The Spoiler: I'm going to be doing a video on this very soon. I'm gathering the materials to do something very similar as we speak.
Is there a way to constrain the machining area so your zero plane is not machined in its entirety? I`m picturing a circle vector outside your profile by a small margin. Not sure Aspire accommodates that. Thanks for the details. I am experienced with Fusion360 but just now learning Aspire. It is a very different work flow for me. ~P
Yes there is. You can draw a vector around the 3D model in the Drawing Tab and make it whatever size you need it to be. When you go so create the 3D Roughing or 3D finishing Toolpath, select the model and that vector, then in the Machine Limit Boundary area, choose Selected Vector, and the toolpath will not machine past that vector. Keep in mind that the 3D machining toolpaths calculate from the center of the ballnose bit, so the bit's radius may go beyond that vector. I demonstrate that in Episode 30 of the Absolute Beginner series - 2-Sided Machining Part 1. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/qsTdCdelBkg/видео.html
I had the same question. It would seem the roughing and finishing tool paths would be going behind the project , all the way out to the edge of the material setup-potentially getting into my hold downs -and taking additional time based on what I’m seeing in the preview . Creating a vector could solve this I imagine. Mark created one here, but didn’t use it
That's a valid concern. Generally speaking, the software will give you a warning that the bit won't fit within the vectors if that's a danger. Still, you should look at the 2D view and measure to see if there's going to be a problem, then use the appropriate sized tool to fit the job.
One quick question......will the Modeling Resolution only change what is displayed on the screen when you preview the tool paths or will it also affect the gcode created in the toolpaths?
Thanks for watching, Palmer! Again - changing the modeling resolution effects the g-code and carve of the model. it does not effect the display on the screen. The only effect it has on the computer at all is it takes longer to calculate the toolpaths and preview the project.
Mark, I love your videos. They have been very helpful to this newcomer. I have a project that I put together and I have a question about how to do it better. It's hard to explain. Is it possible to send you the VCarve file and then explain what my issue is?
I have a question about the raster direction mentioned around 41:45 in the video. You are using 0.0 to go with the grain direction of your material. Are you referring to the grain direction as shown in the model in the video (perpendicular to the X axis), or your actual material grain direction (if so, is it parallel to the X axis)?
Yes, I meant the drain direction of the actual material - not the simulation in the preview. I try to run the bit with the grain. That's not always 100% possible, but I try to get close. In the case of burl wood, where grain goes in every direction at the same time, I take shallower cuts (making more passes) and just kind of hope for the best. It all comes down to the size of the piece I'm cutting. If I can fit it on the table with the grain running parallel to the X, that's how I mount it, and plan the toolpaths accordingly. If I have to run the grain parallel to the Y, I use a raster angle of 90.0.
@@MarkLindsayCNC I'm new to CNC, so appreciate the tips. I had been using the offset strategy after a roughing pass, which needed some sanding afterward. I had just switched to raster in the model, but tripped up on the angle discussion. I have not tried raster for 3d finishing on any wood, yet.
Mark Thanks for your great videos. I always learn something new. 2 questions though. When you changed from the center design point to the bottom left do you have to select all of your design then hold down the shift key then you can change your datum point to the bottom left. Second question is after you have finished your design and find that the board is to big as you pointed out. Can you go back and make it smaller. And not effect your design Jeff
Easy peasy, Jeff. Just go back into Job Setup like you saw me do, and change the material dimensions or the X Y datum point - or both, for that matter. You don't need to select anything at all. The software will prompt you to recalculate the toolpaths. Recalculate, them and you're done.
@@MarkLindsayCNC thanks I am starting to design and build custom cabinets and for ease I always use the center point. but I now have a touch probe that uses the left bottom corner. to set my xyz I tried to change that position just yesterday and when I did all my tool paths moved and ended up in the wrong place. Great timing on the video. One other question is there a way that after I create a rectangle for a dado cut to place it where I want it to be by setting some x&y positions. Jeff
In the drawing, yes. Select the rectangle click on Draw Rectangle, select the anchor point, and enter the X and Y coordinates you want to move the rectangle to.
Thank you, Skip. I use Mach3 to run g-code. I know a bit about it, but only the parts of it I use. I haven't even begun to scratch the surface of everything it can do. I tend to stay away from getting too machine specific. With all the brands, controllers, and control software out there, I find that just about every CNC is different. What works for me may not work for you - and I don't want to lead anyone down the wrong path. My best advice is to look into tutorials for your machine and your controller software. Just about all software titles out there have support forums (sometimes several,) and they'd be the best place to get info that is specific to your setup.
The reason I don't discuss carving times is because there are too many variables to account for. My machine may be able to cut deeper per pass at a higher feed rate than yours (or vice-versa,) so any time estimate I give you would probably be wrong. Basically, time estimates are machine and tool dependent, so all machine times will vary from person to person.
Great Video despite your boo boo. In my personal opinion, I think the model might have looked a little better if the wedding rings had been rotated slightly. Is it possible to use the rotate function to rotate a 3D element?
Yes it is very possible to rotate the model. It can be done in the 2D view or the 3D view, the same as rotating any vector. By the way - I think the rings should have been raised slightly at the base, too. Thanks for checking out the video!
At first I had no idea what you were talking about, then I took a closer look at the design. Good eye! I forgot all about the date I used in this design... Thanks for checking out the video!
Why would you do all that for an offset, why wouldn't you just make a circle around the outside and choose the difference. You have a 10 inch circle, why not just make a 10.25 inch circle centered on the flat circle you have
To demonstrate the tools. As I said in the video, I was answering some questions I had via email and PM. Yes, you're right - I could have just made a 10.25 inch circle (it wouldn't have given me the 3/8" offset I wanted, but your point is well taken,) and that would have given me a vector to cut out. Now suppose this wasn't a simple circle. Suppose it was an eagle, a tree, a deer, or something else. I was demonstrating how to add a vector around the model, no matter what shape it is (this one just happened to be a circle,) then create an offset vector the size you want it to be.
@@MarkLindsayCNC well shoot, I did not think of other shapes, and I was not trying to sound like I was criticizing your work, I was genuinely curious why you did it that way. It makes sense now😀(I am totally new to aspire) so I am learning everything about the ventric softwares that I can
No worries. I didn't take it that way at all. It's a legit question. In my normal workflow, I probably would have done exactly like you mentioned - create the vector based on the finished size I wanted the circle to be. In this case, I needed to demonstrate those tools to answer someone's question about the process. I sometimes forget to explain why I'm doing something a certain way - this just happened to be one of those times.
Frankie and Johnny aint going to like this one! Can we take it you aint gonna be the best man? Into the rings way too much, I don't think they'd agree!
Mark's teaching method just seems to hit better for me than most . Mark has a teaching gift.
Thank you for your time to teach us. I am going to make this for my great niece.
I like that you do not hide your spoken mistakes. I like that you correct them in editing.
WoW, thank you again I have learnt so much. The way you teach is so good, you just explain things in simple terms. I like the way you have no music in the background, I find this so annoying when you are trying to concentrate, Thank you again.
Very good at explaining everything, Thanks.
Very good video. I wish that the Vectric videos were as detailed in description of actions. Thank you!
I have watched many of your videos and I have learned a lot. As a hobbyist I knew nothing when I got my cnc 4 years ago. Your video helped me get to the skill level I'm at today.
Thanks Mark just getting in to this. And your videos are awesome. Learning alot thanks again.
best aspire tutorial, you can explain very clearly and in detail, speak slowly so that it is very easy to follow and very easy to understand, thank you and thank you for the knowledge that you shared with us
Thank you very much! One reason I speak so slowly is because I do the closed captioning, and it's easier to do if I speak slowly. I hope the video helped you!
Mark, appreciate the amount of work that goes into these videos. Extremely helpful, especially for a newbie. Please keep up the tutorials. One of the easiest ones to follow along and packed with information.
Thank you for checking them out! I hope you're finding them helpful.
Great video! Also thanks for explaining the symbols in the model tree.
Your videos get better and better Mark as I go through your playlist. Thank you for all your efforts!!!
This is proper teaching! I love your style Mark. No gimmicks, no ridiculous music and very well explained.
I'm looking at buying 'VCarve DeskTop', ( can't afford the Pro version unfortunately ) ................
Been looking at your tutorial videos for quite some time now, don't know why I haven't subscribed to your channel earlier.
But I am now! ; )
Thank you so much sir.
TURK
I don't know why either, Turk. Thanks for checking it out, and welcome aboard!
@@MarkLindsayCNC Many thanks for the quick response Mark, very much appreciated ; )
My reason for not subscribing was purely down to not knowing if the Vectric software was right for me. But after trying various Open Source and free alternatives, I'm now seriously looking at VCarve deskTop. Thanks to you : ) So now I'm learning everything I can on the software before the purchase.
TURK
After being guided through a detailed tutorial on the program, I was convinced to purchase it.
After being guided through a detailed tutorial on the program, I was convinced to purchase it.
Well worth the time to watch this video. 10 lessons in one project very well explained. Thank you.
WHAT A FANTASTIC EXPLANATION OF VECTRIC - WELL DONE !
Thank you! I hope you find it helpful!
Great tutorial, in my opinion better than the official tutorial. Congratulations and thank you.
Mark, Don't apologize for the length of the video. You explained everything in detail and I learned a lot about how to use the modeling tab and what the differences were. I have had VCP 9 for about 2 years and have barely scratched the surface of what I can do. With your videos, I am learning so much more. One last question, when you carve the letters, what if you wanted them to stand above the bottom like the rings? Thank you!!
Thank you very much, John. For that, I'm afraid you're going to need Aspire, because that gets into adding to the model in a way that isn't available in VCarve. Since I don't have Aspire, I don't have an answer for you.
HOWEVER! If anyone out there knows of a way to do what John wants to do in VCarve, sing out! I'd love to find out for myself!
questo video mi è stato davvero utile. GRAZIE!!!
Awesome video Mark, my folks are having their 60th anniversary this month and this gives me some great ideas for making a plaque to celebrate it.... you are slowly but surely helping this old dog to learn a few new tricks... thank you
From one old dog to another, thanks for watching. I hope it helps you out.
Absolutely love your videos
Great video Mark, thank you for helping us newbies out I really appreciate you taking the time
Thank you, Cliff!
You’ve taken me from a quivering novice to a confident novice....awesome videos!
You are a great instructor ... bet you were in the Navy!
Nope - 9 years in the Army. Thank you!
Mark You're a great teacher.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to explain in detail all the tool icons and the process.
Thank you for watching, Dean! I hope it helps!
Even better the second time through after having some 3D experience!
Thank you for this videoclip. I have learned from the video two other things that i was wondering about that i did not know. I think this will be my first CNC carve when my 1F comes. :)
your videos are very didactic and easy to understand, good work, greetings from Argentina!
Thank you, Sir!
Nice video. Is there a way to zero plane only the model. I am using clamps and don't want to run into the clamps.
The Zero Plane doesn't set the boundary of the model, or where the bit does the carving. That's done in the Roughing and Finishing toolpaths. You can set it to machine to the Model's Boundary, the Material's Boundary, or draw a vector around the area you want to machine, and have it Machine to that Selected Vector. I demonstrated Machining to a Selected Vector in my 3D Barn Star video, here: ruclips.net/video/3lvtm8iw0eY/видео.html
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks
Great video Mark!
Thank you, Ray!
Great video. How do you make raised lettering instead of the v bit letters on a 3D model?
There are a few different ways of doing that. I'll make a video on it, but it may be a couple of weeks before I can get to it.
Great lesson on 3D carving. Thank you Mark.
Thank you, Larry!
Help, I'm becoming a Mark Lindsay junkie ! Great presentation.
I've watched a number of your videos and they have been a great help. I do have a couple of questions. I don't know if this is the right place to ask the questions but I didn't know where else to go. The first question is: I bought some STL files from ETSY, is there a way that I could manipulate them (add to or delete from. The second question is: I'm pretty sure it was on one of your videos that you used some sort of adhesive masking in one of your projects, now I can't find it. Keep up the excellent work. You are a valuable resource.
Great tutorial
Is it possible to arrange shapes (like circles of exact same size) along a curve like you did with the text here?
Yes it is. I demonstrated the method (Circular Array) way back in episode 3 of the Vectric for Absolute Beginners series. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/Q28xlZW6UC8/видео.html
@@MarkLindsayCNC would this work for vectors that are not a single curve or circle? Like a zig-zag of a sine wave vector that you want text to go along?
Great video again Mark! Can't wait to see the next one with stl imports.
Thank you, Bill!
Thank you so much Mark for this video. I
was working on a project last night very similar to the example you used. It answered most of my questions. Back to the drawing board. This time I will know what I'm doing. Keep up the good work, you have helped me in many areas of Vcarve.
Thank you, Dan! I hope it helps!
Were you referring to the 1977 Elvis film? ;)
Thank you thank you thank you, This was very helpful. Please keep up the awesome videos!
Thank you for checking it out!
I have watched many of your videos and as always I leave with a much better understanding of the topic. I have been doing some 3d carving and have been reasonably successful I use vcarve pro 10.0 I am trying to better understand the zero plane I have added the zero plane in the modeling tab for my work and when i calculate the tool path the entire surface is milled by about .02 Do you turn the zero plane off when you preview the tool path as I only want to carve the model itself
That was a mistake on my part. When you apply the Zero Plane, it becomes part of the model. So if you choose to Machine to Model Boundary, it's going to carve the whole surface of the material that's covered by the Zero Plane. I corrected that in subsequent videos, but it was to late to go back and change this one. What I should have done in this video was create a vector boundary around the outside of the dish, then machined to that vector boundary.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks you for the clarification
So when you get to actually carving the text, and you have to switch out the bit and re calibrate x, y, and z, using a touchpad, how do you get pad on bottom of material for a true reading?
First, you don't reset your X or Y zeros when you do a tool change. You reset your Z zero after the tool change only. Your X and Y positions do not change. As far as where you put the touch plate in order to actually reset your Z zero is concerned, that's completely up to you. If you're setting your Z zero position to the material surface, you can do that anywhere on the surface you want to - it does not have to be in the same place you set your X and Y zero. You can put it on any area of the material that hasn't been carved away during the roughing or finishing toolpaths, or even a scrap of the same piece of material, off to the side of the project. It's 100% up to you.
thanks. I wondered if I coul change locations when setting the Z.
These last two videos are very informative. Did not realize that changing the modeling resolution actually changed the G-code and the speed of the cut on the CNC!
Question: why do you use a ball nose bit for the roughing path vs a flat bottom end mill?
Thanks Richard. To be honest, I use the ballnose because that's the way I was taught, and I never questioned it. I figure people who have been doing this for 20 years know a lot more than I do, so... After my mistake in calculating the toolpath with the end mill instead of a ballnose, I may give it a shot - at least on a roughing toolpath.
I have the same comment 9 months later!Never knew until last video that modeling resolution had any impact on final output, thought it was just for preview quality. Likewise, I’ve also always used a flat endmill for 3D roughing and then the smallest ballnose I have the time for for 3D finishing pass. Endmills with wood can have a 40-50% stepover vs 10-20% max on ballnose, so I don’t see why you’d ever rough with a ballnose. Great videos by the way.
You did it again @!@!@! GREAT job Mark. Thanks very much for the time you take to share your wealth of knowledge. (even if you used the wrong bit -- I just had to do that)
Thanks, Steve! I figure if I can't be a good example, maybe I can serve as a horrible warning...
@@MarkLindsayCNC Hey, the mark of a craftsman is making mistakes and not letting us know you did it. I repeat -- GREAT job.
Great tutorial as usual. With the roughing you used will the bit run into hold downs?
It might. That's one reason why I use screws rather than clamps. Planning how you're going to mount the material is a very important part of this, and between you and me, I don't think I spend enough time talking about that. I'll try to change that.
Mark good job I always have question I have v carve desktop Is that way I don't have a z plain thanks
Thank you, Robert! You should have the Zero Plane. Go to the Modeling tab, and it's the last icon to the right. I hope that helps!
Thanks Mark... learned a lot from this video as usual!
Thank you, Lyle!
exactly the video I was looking for,,,, Thanks so much,, Great job as always. this helped me figure out my screw up
Thanks for watching, Steve! Glad it helped you out!
another awesome videl
Thank you, John! I hope it helps you out!
@@MarkLindsayCNC spacing that text is awesome, I always wondered what those arrows were!!!!l LOL
Hello Mark, I have a STL model I purchaced on Etsy. The STL model has a "Rope" border/frame around it that I would like to remove. I use Vcarve Pro, but just can't figure out how to remove or edit the STL model. Can you help?
I'm sorry, but you can't edit an STL, or any other 3D file with VCarve. That would take Aspire or another 3D modeling program to do. If you know anyone with a 3D modeling program, hit them up and ask them if they'd edit it for you, then save you a new STL file. Sorry!
Can you tell me if in this video he is working with a 3D file? The type of files I'm working with are just like his ( mine are from Design and Make as well as Vetric). He is using Aspire but states in the video that it will also work in VCarve Pro. How is this function supposed to work (Trim Objects)? I've even tried it on simple vcarve projects/files. I go through the processes as described and click on "Clear either inside or outside" and nothing happens. Anyway the link included is a RUclips video. Also if you look in the "comments" area. The last comment, someone states this function doesn't work in VCarve 9. I've sent this problem to Vetrics and they say it works in shop, and they asked me to send them my file and a link to the video. At this time I'm waiting on them to see if the file provided is doable or as I described to them the function doesn't work on any file in my version of VCarve Pro (which is version 9.518).
ruclips.net/video/HKMQZoeoe00/видео.html
Great video. Did the wedding happen or was it postponed because of COVID?
I see what you did there...
Nice Job, Mark Thanks
Thanks very much, Ron!
Thanks for sharing have a blessed day
You too, Tim, and thank you!
Another good one Mark!
I would like to see an outside edge treatment; bevel or round over. Please do one sometime. . . or point me to a video where you have already shown one. - Jim
Thank you, Jim! I did a beveled edge treatment in one of my bitmap tracing videos back in February. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/n03muGANuT8/видео.html
I haven't done a roundover edge treatment video yet. I need to get the right bits and give that a go...
Found it. Not sure how I missed it, but I did. Thank you for redirecting me.
Hello!
I just purchased Aspire 10 for a VERY specific 3d carving need... what is the best specific forum to post details?
Thanks
Pete
San Clemente CA
USAF Retired vet
The absolute best place is the Vectric Support forum. You can find a link through Vectric's website. There are a ton of people over there that are more than willing to help. Also, don't forget that Vectric has a bunch of very good tutorials as well.
I definitely learned a lot from this video. It was worth every minute. It provided exactly what I was hoping for. I do have one question. When actually cutting the roughing and finishing pass, do you typically go with or perpendicular to the grain? Thank you again, great series!!
Thanks for checking it out, David. I'm going to use the two words folks dread - it depends. On some dense woods like hard maple, you can run with the grain. I like to run with the grain as it hides machining marks 99% of the time. For less dense woods like mahogany or softwoods like pine, you cant - it'll peel, rip, and splinter on you. On less dense woods, I tend to run at a 45° angle to the grain whenever I can, which eliminates the problem most of the time. If it's a situation where I can't run at a 45° angle, I run perpendicular to the grain.
As an example, what amount of time would this take to carve on your machine? I followed along and it tells me 24+ hours to carve on my machine! Does that sound right on a 12x12 piece of material?
Machining time is dependent on several factors - model size, total model depth, depth of cut per pass, stepover, feed rate, and plunge rate. Chief among those are the stepover, feed rate, and plunge rate. If you're cutting a 10 inch diameter model with a stepover of 8% of the bit's cutting diameter, that bit is a 1/16 inch diameter ball nose, and your feed rate and plunge rates are pretty conservative, it could take quite a while. For that model, I would guess at about 10 hours for an 11 inch diameter project. I set my feed rate at 50 ipm, my plunge rate at 25 ipm, and my stepover at 8% using a 1/16 inch diameter tapered ballnose. Also, in the Toolpath Summary page(that gives you the time estimate) set your rapid rate to 200 ipm, and scale factor to 1 and see what that says. It doesn't mean it'll move at 200 ipm - it'll just use that rapid rate to estimate times.
Mark Lindsay CNC thank you! AND thank you for the video’s, I’ve learned a great deal from you.
Thanks! As usual, you answered the questions that came to mind before the end of the video!
Thank you Jim! I hope you find it helpful!
Hi Mark. Does VCarve allow multiple 3D models to be imported in, not clip art...?
Hi Jeff. VCarve only allows you to import one 3D model that isn't a Vectric Clipart file.
@@MarkLindsayCNC OK, thanks Mark. I had to block off a couple holes on a 3D model that is a 2 sided job. I only want the holes to be carved on the 2nd side operation, so on the first side, I brought in 2 rectangular pcs of clip art and made their size and thickness work and merged. Did the trick.
Mark i have a question. When downloading a plan from like design and make they ask what type of file do you want. I'm using Vcarve pro 9.5. What should I use. Thanks Carl
If it's from Design and Make, you want a CRV or an STL file. If it's from anyone who doesn't offer CRV files, you need an STL file if it's a 3D model.
Mark thank you for your dedication to help and you're easy to understand presentation. Can parts of a preprepared 3d model be deleted? I bought a guitar 3d model and want to make a small change to the model.
Great Video Mark, just watched it for a second time. A challenge, change it to a 2 sided model, maybe make the lip a little larger and carve out the bottom of the plate so the project looks like a plate. Is this possible with Vcarve?
I have a teaser and a spoiler for you. The Teaser: Yes, it's possible. The Spoiler: I'm going to be doing a video on this very soon. I'm gathering the materials to do something very similar as we speak.
Is there a way to constrain the machining area so your zero plane is not machined in its entirety? I`m picturing a circle vector outside your profile by a small margin. Not sure Aspire accommodates that. Thanks for the details. I am experienced with Fusion360 but just now learning Aspire. It is a very different work flow for me. ~P
Yes there is. You can draw a vector around the 3D model in the Drawing Tab and make it whatever size you need it to be. When you go so create the 3D Roughing or 3D finishing Toolpath, select the model and that vector, then in the Machine Limit Boundary area, choose Selected Vector, and the toolpath will not machine past that vector. Keep in mind that the 3D machining toolpaths calculate from the center of the ballnose bit, so the bit's radius may go beyond that vector. I demonstrate that in Episode 30 of the Absolute Beginner series - 2-Sided Machining Part 1. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/qsTdCdelBkg/видео.html
I had the same question. It would seem the roughing and finishing tool paths would be going behind the project , all the way out to the edge of the material setup-potentially getting into my hold downs -and taking additional time based on what I’m seeing in the preview . Creating a vector could solve this I imagine. Mark created one here, but didn’t use it
Is there a danger of the sides of the 90 degree V-bit cutting into the edge of the plate? How do we determine it's safe?
That's a valid concern. Generally speaking, the software will give you a warning that the bit won't fit within the vectors if that's a danger. Still, you should look at the 2D view and measure to see if there's going to be a problem, then use the appropriate sized tool to fit the job.
One quick question......will the Modeling Resolution only change what is displayed on the screen when you preview the tool paths or will it also affect the gcode created in the toolpaths?
Thanks for watching, Palmer! Again - changing the modeling resolution effects the g-code and carve of the model. it does not effect the display on the screen. The only effect it has on the computer at all is it takes longer to calculate the toolpaths and preview the project.
Q…?? How long it takes to Cnc this project?
Mark could you tell me how changing the molding resolution has a effect on the g code and speed of the cut. does it only effect 3d moulding? Jeff
I explained it in Part 18, Jeff, but I'll go through it again in Part 20.
thank you mark, perfect to me, very clear!!
Thank you! I hope it helps!
My only question? What’s the best way to secure this material on the Cnc machine without ruining your hold downs and bit? Lol
Mark, I love your videos. They have been very helpful to this newcomer. I have a project that I put together and I have a question about how to do it better. It's hard to explain. Is it possible to send you the VCarve file and then explain what my issue is?
I have a question about the raster direction mentioned around 41:45 in the video. You are using 0.0 to go with the grain direction of your material. Are you referring to the grain direction as shown in the model in the video (perpendicular to the X axis), or your actual material grain direction (if so, is it parallel to the X axis)?
Yes, I meant the drain direction of the actual material - not the simulation in the preview. I try to run the bit with the grain. That's not always 100% possible, but I try to get close. In the case of burl wood, where grain goes in every direction at the same time, I take shallower cuts (making more passes) and just kind of hope for the best. It all comes down to the size of the piece I'm cutting. If I can fit it on the table with the grain running parallel to the X, that's how I mount it, and plan the toolpaths accordingly. If I have to run the grain parallel to the Y, I use a raster angle of 90.0.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks for clarifying, Mark. Updating my angles :-)
That's just how I do it, Mike. If you are doing something else, and it's working for you, there's no need to change.
@@MarkLindsayCNC I'm new to CNC, so appreciate the tips. I had been using the offset strategy after a roughing pass, which needed some sanding afterward. I had just switched to raster in the model, but tripped up on the angle discussion. I have not tried raster for 3d finishing on any wood, yet.
Mark Thanks for your great videos. I always learn something new. 2 questions though. When you changed from the center design point to the bottom left do you have to select all of your design then hold down the shift key then you can change your datum point to the bottom left.
Second question is after you have finished your design and find that the board is to big as you pointed out. Can you go back and make it smaller.
And not effect your design
Jeff
Easy peasy, Jeff. Just go back into Job Setup like you saw me do, and change the material dimensions or the X Y datum point - or both, for that matter. You don't need to select anything at all. The software will prompt you to recalculate the toolpaths. Recalculate, them and you're done.
@@MarkLindsayCNC thanks I am starting to design and build custom cabinets and for ease I always use the center point. but I now have a touch probe that uses the left bottom corner. to set my xyz I tried to change that position just yesterday and when I did all my tool paths moved and ended up in the wrong place. Great timing on the video. One other question is there a way that after I create a rectangle for a dado cut to place it where I want it to be by setting some x&y positions.
Jeff
In the drawing, yes. Select the rectangle click on Draw Rectangle, select the anchor point, and enter the X and Y coordinates you want to move the rectangle to.
Great video, but it ended where I am trying to start. What are you using to run the G-Code and actually carve? Do you have a Patreon account?
Thank you, Skip. I use Mach3 to run g-code. I know a bit about it, but only the parts of it I use. I haven't even begun to scratch the surface of everything it can do. I tend to stay away from getting too machine specific. With all the brands, controllers, and control software out there, I find that just about every CNC is different. What works for me may not work for you - and I don't want to lead anyone down the wrong path. My best advice is to look into tutorials for your machine and your controller software. Just about all software titles out there have support forums (sometimes several,) and they'd be the best place to get info that is specific to your setup.
It great video just wished you showed the job time for each tool path.
The reason I don't discuss carving times is because there are too many variables to account for. My machine may be able to cut deeper per pass at a higher feed rate than yours (or vice-versa,) so any time estimate I give you would probably be wrong. Basically, time estimates are machine and tool dependent, so all machine times will vary from person to person.
How ironic, I found this video today and they're supposed to get married tomorrow. Hope all is well. Thank you for your videos. Stay safe
Good eye! I had forgotten all about the date I put into this design. Thanks for checking it out!
Great Video despite your boo boo. In my personal opinion, I think the model might have looked a little better if the wedding rings had been rotated slightly. Is it possible to use the rotate function to rotate a 3D element?
Yes it is very possible to rotate the model. It can be done in the 2D view or the 3D view, the same as rotating any vector. By the way - I think the rings should have been raised slightly at the base, too. Thanks for checking out the video!
Where's everybody from?
Are most of you guys in the good ol US of A?
I'm from France : )
TURK
I am.
Watching this video and you type today's date (this is how you know you're supposed to be where you are).
At first I had no idea what you were talking about, then I took a closer look at the design. Good eye! I forgot all about the date I used in this design... Thanks for checking out the video!
Playback speed at 1.25 and its perfect.
Why would you do all that for an offset, why wouldn't you just make a circle around the outside and choose the difference. You have a 10 inch circle, why not just make a 10.25 inch circle centered on the flat circle you have
To demonstrate the tools. As I said in the video, I was answering some questions I had via email and PM. Yes, you're right - I could have just made a 10.25 inch circle (it wouldn't have given me the 3/8" offset I wanted, but your point is well taken,) and that would have given me a vector to cut out. Now suppose this wasn't a simple circle. Suppose it was an eagle, a tree, a deer, or something else. I was demonstrating how to add a vector around the model, no matter what shape it is (this one just happened to be a circle,) then create an offset vector the size you want it to be.
@@MarkLindsayCNC well shoot, I did not think of other shapes, and I was not trying to sound like I was criticizing your work, I was genuinely curious why you did it that way. It makes sense now😀(I am totally new to aspire) so I am learning everything about the ventric softwares that I can
No worries. I didn't take it that way at all. It's a legit question. In my normal workflow, I probably would have done exactly like you mentioned - create the vector based on the finished size I wanted the circle to be. In this case, I needed to demonstrate those tools to answer someone's question about the process. I sometimes forget to explain why I'm doing something a certain way - this just happened to be one of those times.
Frankie and Johnny aint going to like this one! Can we take it you aint gonna be the best man? Into the rings way too much, I don't think they'd agree!
Yeah, I knew that marriage was a mistake from the get-go. Those two have a bit of a history... Thanks for checking it out!