Importing STL Files - Part 20 - Vectric For Absolute Beginners
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- Опубликовано: 30 мар 2019
- Importing STL Files - Part 20 - Aspire and VCarve For Absolute Beginners
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This is the 20th (!) in a series of videos geared toward the person who has never worked with CAD or CAM in the Vectric Software before.
In this video, I’ll continue the journey into 3D carving in Vectric Software. We’ll get into importing STL files into the software.
First we’ll import the STL file, and I’ll walk you through the 3D Model Orientation screen.
From there we’ll create a vector around the model, then start calculating toolpaths. In the 3D roughing toolpath, I’ll show you the difference between using a Z Level strategy and a 3d Raster strategy. In both 3D Roughing and Finishing toolpaths, I’ll show you how to carve just outside the model, using a Boundary Offset. Then we’ll preview the project.
We’re taking a step back from the complexity I demonstrated in my last video, to what is actually a fairly simple project that has several options.
As usual, if you have any comments or questions about anything I covered in this video, please put ‘em in the comment section below.
Thanks for watching!
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It took me a long time to figure out that the view you show is an isometric projection. Orthographic is the one with top, front and right side views folded out flat. Thank you for having the patience to do this very valuable set of tutorials.
You know what? You're absolutely right, Thom! (Getting the wrong word is my thing...)
Okay, y'all! Everywhere I said "orthographic view" in this video, ignore that, and think "Isometric View!" (Boy is my face red...)
You really do a great job at a perfect pace for beginners. I needed everything in this video so I thank you very much!
Thank you for making this video. You teach exactly the way I need to understand what I am doing & what I need to do. I look forward to learning from your other videos.
Thanks Mark for a very informative lesson, I am thinking of buying a Rapid Change ATC and they sent me a STL file so that I can run a mock up unit to see if it will fit on my CNC. Well it has holes in it for where the cutters fit into and fixing holes to the cnc table, I have never done a 3D before but this one made it a lot easier to understand. I have just upgraded to VCarve12 so working out what is different is a bit of a challenge. Cheers.
Another great video explanation!! I just downloaded tons of stl files and now I have a guide to use to set it up correctly without pulling my hair out. Thanks for doing these Mark..
As always, great video Mark! Keep up the good work, through your videos you enable creative minds to apply their ideas to their work!
Thank you very much!
awesome easy to follow tutorials packed with great information Thank you Mark
The best with superb clarity of explanation. Thank you.
Thank's a lot Mark! for taking the time to teach us how this Works even if i am a 3d modeler and knowing a lot of 3d software i have to admit that this is a complete new world for me, just bought a cnc router 2 weeks ago thinking that doing that kind of stuff would be easy but it is not lol so many different behaviors depending of which bit you take or plunge rates and feed rates, hardness of the material, shape of the bits, kind of results you want to achieve etc etc etc.....so i am not out of the forest yet anyway looking at your tutorial help me considerably so your my man ! nice job.
Just want to take a minute to say thank you for your videos Mark.
As usual, Great work Mark. Appreciate you.
Hi Mark, you are an amazing teacher and a true Godsend to the CNC community. Thanks for everything!
Triple thumbs up. Such good teaching.
You are so correct, that first screen to set up the import really threw me off. Thanks for the great video.
As has been said "Another great video" It always amazes me how you pack so much information into a video and still keep it understandable for a layman. Thanks for your hard work.
Thanks very much, Gary. I do hope it helps.
Great job, thank you to explain stap by step without hidden easy technics.😊
Thanks, Mark. I appreciate the pace and depth of these videos. I'm less than two months into my first CNC (NWA Piranha Fx) and enjoying learning all about it.
Thank you, Mike! I hope you're finding the videos useful!
Mark, thanks for my Sunday dose of mind-boggling. The video is clear and has LOTS of valuable information in it. One day I'll get up enough nerve to attempt a 3D carve, And when I do I assure you I'll be re-watching your video!@!@!@
Thank you, Steve! It's good to review just before you pull the trigger. I do that a lot too.
Thank you for a brilliant video. Just getting into vcarve and you have cleared up a lot of questions.
Wow I am a true beginner but with your videos I feel like a pro!!! thank you so much for your pace and how your explain every detail!!!! Amazing and as we say in Cali "You Rock" :)
Thanks for explaining the difference between the 2 roughing types and the time differences.
I know this is an older video now but thank you very much, I watched this one and following 2 yesterday, imported my .stl design last night and today made my first 3d carve! Thank you very much for the tutorial!!
Exactly the info I’ve been looking for! 3D files are amazing, don’t love they take so long… but man are they cool! Learning to cut time without breaking something is key 🔑
Mark: So glad you're doing these videos. I bought a few .stl files but couldn't get them loaded. This video saved me. Thanks so much!
The best explanation ever.Thank you
Thanks Mark. This is an excellent video tutorial and made my first 3D carve so much better. It challenged me to think differently about how to import and prepare this type of image for cutting. Reduced my time from 279 hours to 13 hours for a really complex detailed object. My granddaughters thank you too!
Thanks Mark. Excellent video!
Found your videos and I must say Good Job. Thank you for what you do.
VERY good and clearly explained. Thank you. Jim
Mark, thank you for an extremely informative video. I have not imported an STL file before and your step by step instruction made it easy. A very good instructional video.
You need two thumbs up. I love ❤️ your explanations very able to understand and you give us older one the opportunity to get it into our heads.
Mark, Your great, thank your for your patience and great instructions.
Thank you very much! I do hope it helped you out!
The best guidance I ever saw, bro!
Thank you Mark.... This was an immense help!!
These videos are so well done - Thank You for sharing your insights
Thank you very much! I hope they help!
really in Depth, thank you for taking the time to make this video sir!
Thank you for the wonderful tutorial. I was stuck and your video was so helpful. Excellent pace, very well done. Thank you again!
Thank you for checking it out, Jon! I hope it helps you out!
*Fantastic* tutorial! Thank you, Mark
I have been struggling with this method for several years and your video has helped me with several things dealing with STL importing. Thank you again, Mark!
Thanks very much! I'm glad it helped!
Awesome video. Very thorough.
You are a Master. I watch all of the good ones, however I believe you are a Master of this craft. And probably others.
I wish I could do at least a month worth of training with you. Thank you for your blessings.
Thank you very much for your kind words. I am no expert with any of this, and I'm certainly not a master. I just know what has worked for me, and what hasn't. I'm not afraid to try and fail. I'm starting a new course in this adventure, and I hope people will follow along so we can learn together - what works, and what doesn't.
Thank you for sharing,you are a good teacher.
Oh man!!! I have 100's of STL files for carving....This will be a great video for me to study....Thanks Mark!
Hope it helps!
Thanks Mark, as always great lesson.
Thank you, Larry!
Thanks for this video. You are a stud!!
Thanks Mark for detailed and thorough guidance through these basics, one more stage would be great, in showing us how to finally feed these tool paths to the router where it will be machined. cheers Emile
The very next video in this series is a demonstration of just that. Here's a link: ruclips.net/video/hXRp4igZU5s/видео.html
Just want to say thank you for the videos. I haven't purchased a CNC machine yet, just wanted to get some insight of the process.
OMG !! Now I know why my last job took over 8 hours to cut !! Thank you so much, Mark, for these great videos. I'm learning so much!!
Thank you, John!
Thanks alooot ...so much information ..great job.
Keep being an excellent teacher. Thanks for your time and clarity in your videos. I don't have the money to spend for the education you are giving for free, Thanks again. You make things easy to understand for a dummy like me. Top notch educator.
Thank you very much! I hope it helps you out!
Good video Mark. As always, alot of information to take in
Thank you, Steve! It does get easier - believe me!
Approximately four years experience with my Cnc Professor 2.3 router. Using Aspire is great but still learning from many of your easy paced and well explained videos.
Thanks Mark👍👍👍
Thank you very much!
Great Instructional video!!!
Just another great video, thank you Sir
Thank you for checking it out!
That was great..i need to practice...you explain it quite well..
Great video mate. Well done and thank you for this
Thanks very much, Rich! I hope it helped you out!
another home run I got to watch several times to dig in and get it in the brain
Thank you, Keith!
Another good video. Thanks Mark
Thank you!
That was brilliant, thank you
Great video
Great tutorial
Well done thanks!
Very nice explanation sir
Great work Mark! That sample piece would be great to make on the cnc. I can only imagine how hard it would be to do with a chisel..don't want to think about it.
Yeah, just thinking bout hand carving it makes my head hurt. Thanks Eloy!
An other great video, I always learn so much. You do a great job of explaining the material covered.
Thank you for taking the time to check it out, Geoffrey!
what program do you use to run your cnc
I use carbide createbut it only handles small files> @@MarkLindsayCNC
I use Mach3, and have loved it from the very beginning.
Good lesson! Now to get my nerve up to try it. :-)
One of the better ones, I see a lot of guys who have CNC's that don't have a clue how to use their software and want to jump right into 3d carves but don't know how to import the files Will be sending a lot of guy/girls here.
Thanks very much! I do appreciate it. That's the main reason I waited so long to get into this subject. The more you know about your machine and software, the better you'll be when it comes time to get into 3D.
Merci à Stephan forseilles grâce à lui j'ai découvert votre chaine + 👍 😋 je suis Francophone et cette vidéo est expliquée calmement ce qui est agréable car sa me permet de lire en FR et de comprendre ce que vous êtes entrain de faire en même temps pas évident quand on est débutant 😌😌
More explicitly impossible, great video, thanks!
I hope it helps!
@@MarkLindsayCNC What bit can I use to set the example?
very good
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Excellent work and explanations Mark!
Congratulations!
I ask for your help in showing videos of how, from a 2D image, I can obtain a 3D depth map to obtain .STL files to machine. I know that in some cases, Aspire or VCarve do. I have already seen that Blender and Zbrush software are indicated but difficult to manipulate.
Finally, indicate a site that has good .STL files, like the one you used in this video!
Hugs!
I enjoy watching your tutorials ,some of them several times.What I need to know is how to trim the sides of a square stl file which I do not want to carve like an outer frame but i also want to increase the outer square area around the 3d carve
Send me an email through the Contact Us page on my website marklindsaycnc.com I'll need to ask you some other questions in my reply.
You have never done a video that does not deserve two thumbs up.
Mate you should be paid by aspire/Vectric, you just make sense full stop.
You have given me so much more confidence that I can actually achieve my goals. One note, you say to follow the grain however the illustration looks to be going against the grain? Getting picky but am new to this
Regards and thank you. Keep em coming I’ll be sure to watch and tell my friends
YOUR THE MAN
Derek
Thank you very much for the kind words. I really do appreciate them. As for following the grain; as you can see, the material sample image has the grain running vertically. That's just the way that particular sample image is oriented. I should probably add a few samples with the grain running horizontally, to avoid this kind of confusion. Also, I typically change the raster angle so that the file is being cut at a 45° angle now, rather than cutting with the grain. I'm finding that I get cleaner results that way.
Thanks for watching!
Mark Lindsay CNC ok good to know. We all want to avoid as much sanding as possible, I’m getting older
Thank you!
How often should I save the setup?
Mark, again, thanks so much for these videos! I'm able to follow along in my copy of VCarve as I watch you, It's the best way to learn. One thing that I'd like to know is, when working in the Modeling tab with the component properties there are five options to "Combine with other components...". They appear as two "U"s and two upsides down "U"s, one of each colored filled and a color filled circle. Can you explain the differences and/or purpose to each? Thanks, Chuck
Thank you! I get into the Combine Mode of the models in 2 of my videos. I introduce the Combine Mode in my video on the Concept of Composite Models, here: ruclips.net/video/39dndle4Mlg/видео.html
I get into it a bit deeper into it in my Assembling a Composite Model, here: ruclips.net/video/vKRjPBCvbbY/видео.html
I don't go down the list and show what each of the 5 options are one by one, but what I show in the two videos tells you what each does to the way models interact with one another.
thank you for the very effective videos.
i have the following problem: i input an stl file of a square block with a dome dug in it. i cannot create a vector boundary. vectric does not recognize the edge of the dome on the top surface. i try to draw a circle around and again no recognition.
what is my mistake?
thanks
Super návod r👍
Hi - new VCarve Pro user. I just saw this video. It was well done and very easy to follow. I was able to import, adjust a STL file however when I try to calculate toolpaths it says no vectors selected. Did I perhaps miss a step? thanks!
Great video thank you very much... I hope somebody can help me on this.
I have a model with is 600 x 300 mm and has little 20 x 20 mm squares to be carved 3 mm deep all aver the surface...
The 3D rough machining follows the border of all the squared shapes and carves rough good so that the carved surfaces is 100% flat. However, when I try to configure the 3D finish, it goes step by step way to the other un straight lines so that the steps are marked on the little 20x20 squares surface border.
How could I make the 3D finish to follow the borders of the shapes to be carved with the 3D finish???
when i do a 3d stl i takes over an hour to calculate and locks up some time if i do finish pass only it only takes 4 secs can you help
Thank you for the great videos … all I know is … I have a lot to learn…… I’m about to do my first 3D file carve… my question is after doing the roughing cut.. then change bit to do the finish cut… where do you zero your Z height for the finishing bit at? I’m using two different length bits. I would assume the highest peak left after roughing cut.
I plan on doing a video on this topic when I get moved into the new shop. The short answer is, set your Z zero in a place that won't be carved away. Contrary to popular belief, you do NOT have to set your Z zero at the same place you set your X and Y zero. Pick a spot on your material that won't be carved away, draw an X there, then circle it. Set your X and Y zero to wherever you told the software you were going to set it (center, bottom left, etc...) Move your router/spindle over to that circled X, then set your Z zero. Every time you do a tool change, set your Z zero on that spot, and you should have no issues.
what if you want to import something like without a straight base, meaning its curved from both sides. how to handle such task? I would appreciate your answer sir !
Thank you for your reply. Umfortunately I have over 200 files with such values. I doubt vetric will supply me with answers as they could not in the past.
Regards
If scaling the STL file isn't working in the Import screen, go ahead and finish importing it, then do the Metric to Imperial conversion in the Set Object Size screen. Use the formula in this video to convert: ruclips.net/video/KE4kxHxE95g/видео.html
This is one of Marks best videos but then they are all great. At the end of the video you used the 20 minute roughing pass with an 8 hour finishing pass. If you had used the other 1 hour roughing pass what would have been the final pass time?
Thank You for the great work and please keep it up!
Thank you for the kind words, Bryan! The finishing pass time would stay the same. The roughing pass is more to save wear, tear, and possible breakage of the finishing bit than anything else. If I had roughed out the whole thing, I might be able to set a slightly faster feed rate, but that depends on the material and how it's cutting.
Thank you for another excellent video! One question (that you may have gone over in another video but I didn’t start at the beginning) does it really matter where your datum point is? We started out putting it in the lower left corner but for the last few projects I’ve written, I’ve been putting it in the center. We locate and zero on an “x” drawn in the center of the board. Is there an advantage to leaving it in the lower left? Thanks again-I’m learning so much from you!
Thank you very much! The only real advantage to setting X Y zero to the center is within the software. It's easier to design from the center, in my opinion. There's not really an advantage to setting your X Y zero in either place when you get out on the machine. It's really just a matter of preference. Both work equally well. Just remember to set the XY zero to the same place in the software and on the machine.
Mark Thanks again for another informative video. With run times of 8 to 10 minutes what would your thoughts be on doing that file with a dewalt 1.25 hp router as far as it over heating.
The other question is on the time vcarve says it takes to cut. on my Carbide shapeoko it seems to cut faster the vcarve says it should.
Did you calibrate your cnc in some way to reflect the correct time. In the file I sent you on the Dados vectric said the cut time was 18 minutes
when when I ran it it only took 5 minutes. Thanks Jeff
Lots of things can effect that estimate, Jeff. How fast you bump up feed rates on the fly is only one. Also, look at the estimate in VCarve, and change the scale factor down to 1x. That's another factor.
If you use raster for roughing, can you later adjust plunge rate/feed rate on the final 3D pass enough to be more efficient than before? If the hold up on the plunge is the depth it has to go on the deepest parts for good accuracy it seems if you could double plunge speed (as it only will need to cut a shallower cut at the extremes) on the final you would be a head in the total. Certainly machine dependent.
Absolutely machine and bit dependent. If you're using a tapered ball nose bit, they can handle a bit more stress than something like a .03125 diameter bit can handle. Of course if you're using a tapered ballnose bit, a roughing pass isn't really necessary in a lot of cases - depending on how deep you're carving, that is.
Mark, another great tutorial thank you. The scale mm to inches answered a lot of questions for me! I did have one other question. I thought that I had seen on one of the vectric videos that your plunge rate and feed rate should be the same. What are your thoughts on setting up that way?
I've never seen or heard that, Jeff. I was taught that the plunge rate should never be more than half of the feed rate to help reduce the chance of snapping off the bit. Now I don't know if that's totally true, but it's served me well.
Thanks for checking out the video!
@@MarkLindsayCNC Mark, I had to go back and see where I had seen or heard that about using the same plunge and feed rate. It is only when doing 3D carving. It was on one of the shopbot tutorials . I have a shopbot PRSStandard 4X8 so I follow their recommendations pretty closely. Here is a link to the video if you look at the 5 minute mark it is where he explains the rationale on using that setting. Wanted to pass it along hope you find it useful. ruclips.net/video/YhrOX7H-_mk/видео.html as always thank you for all that you share. you've helped resolve many of my questions and frustrations :)
Thank you, Jeff! I'll give it a watch!
How do I get the zero plain down. I have a 3-D project that is thick and when I put the thickness to the zero plain it leaves off a lot of the detail in the carve. I lower the carve and the zero plain stays in the middle. I have not tried carving that yet but is that what I should do? Thank Rick
Hey Mark great video- only problem is on my finishing tool path, the TBN wants to essentially “drill” around the outer vector . Any tips to prevent this in Vcarve desktop?
Try adding a Zero Plane and make sure it's at the top of the Component Tree.
Thanks Mark, great video. Is there going to be or maybe already lesson 21 on 3-D cutting?
You'll have to check my channel tomorrow to find out. Or, you could subscribe, then click the notification bell, then you'll know the minute I post a new video. (The short answer is yes - I post a new video every Sunday at 7 am Eastern...)
Thanks Mark. I am a subscriber and I will check my notifications. Thanks again I am learning a lot from you.
Thank you, Sir!
hello, nice video!, could you help me please?, I import my stl model exactly as you did, and it doesn´t see it. I have Aspire 9.514. What is going on?
How do you get the picture into the programs
Mark Great Video. The amount of time to create this project is my concern after you showed your audience. Because if you use a Boush or Dewalt router and not a "spindle" type router, wouldn't that cause the router to overheat? Or would you have to pause the cut somewhere in the program to let it cool down and then resume to finish the cut? A long run time will get those routers hot. How do you deal with that? Thanks
My first 3 CNC routers used a Porter Cable model 890 series router. I believe the longest continuous carve I ever had was 14 hours, and I never had a problem with it overheating. Your concerns are valid, however. It all comes down to the fact that almost all routers were never designed to be run for that long of a duration without a break. They were designed to be turned on, make a cut, then turned off and allowed to cool off for a while. People have burned out routers (usually in hot weather, but not always.) This is especially true with smaller "trim-routers." The cooling fans inside aren't designed to handle that kind of work load. This is why I'm an advocate of using a spindle (be it water cooled or air cooled,) instead of a router. Spindles were designed to run for long periods without a break, and their cooling systems were designed accordingly. Having said all of that, for the beginner, you shouldn't have much of a problem running a fairly new router for long durations if you take steps to allow for maximum air-flow through the router (things like blowing out the router motor with compressed air after every use, and making sure the airway is kept clear of obstructions.) Just about all of the burned out routers I have seen had been neglected or were several years old, and had gone through several sets of brushes over their lifetime. I know that spindle kits are not cheap - but neither is replacing a router every 3-5 years.
From where can I dind modules like this sir?
Hello, wanted to know how accurate the carving time calculator is ? When we carve in cnc machine could the carving time change if yes what percentage compared to the time calculation in vcarve
It's fairly accurate, but nothing is perfect. Your best bet is to look at the time estimate in the Toolpath Summary, then keep track of the actual machining time. Use those two figures to create a multiplication factor to enter in the Toolpath Summary. My actual time tends to run about a 1.15 scale factor. Personally, I only use that calculator to get a rough estimate. I can increase or decrease the actual cutting speed while the machine is cutting. That throws those estimates right out the window.
Mark have you made a video on Rest Machining
No, I haven't. Rest machining is a technique that's available in Aspire, but not in VCarve Pro.
Mark, I have a 3d object file of a guitar neck. I'm having trouble setting it up. It will be two sided, but since the head stock is angled, part of it will need to be cut below the zero plane. I tried setting up the zero plane center of the neck. I have a bunch of files I purchased for a les Paul guitar. I would be happy to give you copies if you could help me figure out how to cut this neck. The body was easy. Thanks
There is no easy answer to this question. You'll need to make the material in Job Setup thick enough to carve the neck and headstock out of 1 piece. Import the STL file, and adjust the position so that the modeling plane is underneath the model. From there, basically, you're going to have to decide which side of the neck you're going to carve first, then build a jig to hold the neck from that side. What I mean by that is, lets say you carve the top of the neck first (the fretboard side.) You'll need to mount the neck fretboard side down, onto that jig. I'd use either double-sided tape or the painter's tape and CA glue mounting method for that. The jig will need to be flat for the fretboard mounting surface, then angle up for the back of the headstock. It could be made out of plywood and screwed or clamped to the table as you clamp or screw down any other project material. Sorry I can't help more than that, but I don't have any videos that demonstrate the process. I do have plans on building a guitar and making a series on the topic, but it'll either be later this year or next year before I can get to it. My plate is so full right now, it's not even funny.