The Garage Workshop - 3D Printer Cross Cut Sled
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Hello Fellow Woodworkers!
Welcome to this weeks’ video from The Garage Workshop!
This week I set out to discover whether I can make a cross cut sled for my table saw using rails printed on a 3D printer.
The link to the rails is included below.
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Happy Woodworking!
Rail Guides
cults3d.com/:1...
(Cults not thingiverse)
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Afternoon Roger, I think most comments are supportive and constructive and I have to agree with some of the issues you have.
1. The board of the sled has to rest on the table saw - that’s what supports the cut. When you put the cut in the board to use it the board will only be supported by the front / back fences. This may cause the cut to drop and nip the blade.
2. I haven’t seen it in the video - but how did your runners fit in the tracks on the saw - they should be a snug fit - with little sideways movement.
3. It doesn’t matter how square the base board is to the saw / runners etc - so ideally the tracks just need to fitted to the board whilst in the saw the ensures it runs right.
4. Once it’s running and you do a partial cut in you bard. - that’s the bit that you need to ensure that the rear fence is square to the blade cut. Test the cut and see if the fence is out using the 5 cut square method.
As I say everyone is supportive and offering advice -it maybe sounds too critical, but the way you have done it there are lots of compounded errors - which if it’s not being used for accurate work is not a problem, but if you need accuracy I think you will need to look at the build again.
PS I wouldn’t use MDF - as it’s so susceptible to moisture and damage.
Keep going - this is how we all learn - but be careful.
👍🏻
Thanks Duncan that feedback is much appreciated! :)
Roger, is there any reason you didnt put runners in the table saw slots sat on washers for the exact spacing? Just a dab of super glue or double tape,then screw them in.
Hi Steven. As they were raised up I didn't think I needed them. To be honest it would have saved a bit of faffing with the rails but it ended up ok
To my mind you've compounded the original problem by using MDF- surely the most weather-prone choice? As already mentioned, you didn't reference from the fence to fit the rails, no rear blade guard and the sled doesn't sit flush on the table. I'm afraid this looks like an accident waiting to happen.
Hi. I did reference the fence when I fit the rails and that's included in the video. Not all sleds I have seen have a blade guard and I am always super super careful when using my saw. In terms of the MDF, we will see how it goes and if it does turn out to be a poor choice then I will make it again with another wood. Thanks for the feedback it is much appreciated!
Hi it seems from the video the rails are grounding should have 2mm gap
Hi Gerry. Yeah I agree.
As Steven has said, the way you have fixed the guide rails means you have no idea if the rails are parallel because you didn't fit them using the saw fence as your datum to ensure the sled was square to the fence. That is why it does not move smoothly.
Also, because you glued the back to the base using the edges as a guide you can't guarantee it is square to the saw fence. You should have fixed it in position up against the saw fence to get an accurate 90⁰.
The printed rails are too deep. The sled should rest flat on the saw table so that it can't lift or dip as it is pushed. The rails should not touch the bottom of the saw table tracks but just the sides as the depth of the track on a lot of hobby saws is not consistent.
Hi. I did make sure it was square to both the fence and the base of the saw and I did show that in the video. I placed a set square on the bottom of the table and it was perfectly in line. I know the table level is parallel with the guides as I have checked that previously.
The sled is perfectly inline with both the fence and the base of the bed of the saw.