Hello Nick. I recommend when doing SWA cable to strip the double insulated layer once you have the cable in the D.B, score it first, but with bigger sizes you run the risk of ripping the cores insulation on the gland as you pull the cores through.
Very nice board and extremely functional. There's two types of commercial/industrial, one where it's fit and forget and that's the fit out forever, the second is where they're constantly changing layouts. You've dressed the cable nicely for the latter and honestly that's preferable for most of the places we work.
you can just imagine the spark many years from now going back for a wiring fault, they open up the cover expecting a birds nest of cables and see your work and thinking ahhh thank god. Tidier than most I see mate 👏
Click on neutral and that board footprint is pretty common in residential in North America now. It's always interesting to see the different standards.
Looks very pretty, but by cutting the cpc to fit at the top now make those circuits potentially not future proof. There is plenty of room in the enclosure to run all conductors to the the base and back up again, terminating as you have done. This way any adjustments or future board changes are not restricted by the length of the cables left by the previous installer. Also, the swa's are spaced too far apart making future additions untidy. I agree with the comment regarding the use of a box trunking and a slot or large bushes.
probably would have put a big lump of metal trunking on top and jig sawed out a nice space on the of the board just for space, that said it's not a full on old school industrial environment, where equipment could be changed on a monthly basis, it's lovely and neat but you have restricted it a bit, maybe split either side of the termination at the top and connections from the bottom up, in the board leaving the room for expansion, cheers for your output 👍 top guys
yeah, as some of the other guys have said, id have put 2 rows of 3 on one side as there could be another 6 or even 18 armoured cables going in depending on phase. assuming that i woud have most likley used some metal trunking accross the top of the board and down either side (the sides for aesthetics) to give myself another 200mm across the top of the board. otherwise, internally very neat.
Never thought about putting the cpcs in the bottom, I've always come from the top, I can see why you've done it though to keep them clear of any future SWA'S going into the top of the board. but I put metal trunking on the top and either pax or 4x 50mm bush and lockrings so I don't have to worry about other SWA'S coming into the top of the board lid and catching the cpcs.
I do the same mate especially with these Schneider boards, only problem I find with them is looming the earths having a 100x100 trunking above works a treat
Smart good boards to work with. I’d Normally run length 4x4 or 6x6 galv trunk over the top and maybe down one side paxolin through to the Db future proof it a little.
Use these boards on every job we do. Neat but next time, 6x6” trunking header on the top, jigged out, paxoline in between, earths go in the top not the bottom. Great boards to use, they also do a rcbo without flying leads. U
You should have cut All the cables Long enough to reach the furthest Breaker and then Dress the slack back on itself. same for Neutrals an Earth cables, also there is no need for boot lace Ferrals on Solid cable- they for stranded cable only.
As a recently retired Industrial sparks of some 50 years I would have destroyed you if you had left those armoured cables as you first terminated them but as you altered the radius of the bends I would say that your connections were fine.if you want to see good distribution board connecting take a visit to the Norwich & Norfolk Hospital where I connected a fair few of them
Looking pretty tidy inside the only real criticism I’d have it you shouldn’t have spaced the cables out like that they should have come in closer or on one side as you have essentially made it impossible for the next person to make it look tidy when they use the rest of the board as there is no tidy places to put glands
Perhaps we have been doing ware house work wrong all these years but we use that really large trunkings that you used to fix your tray too for holding all our cables as they run all around and at multi levels just used tray to get up or down between. So are we the only ones doing this? You didn't say but I hope you are fitting metal straps on the tray once all the cables are installed?
Looks good, personally I’d run an earth cable from the bolt which is connected to the SWA up to the earth rail, I don’t know what the MI states on this but it’s belt and braces.
No header on a board that size and using the whole plate on the top for a few cables? Future proofing would be to overrun a header across the top to cover the total size of the board which would then allow you to lose the slack in side the trunking and keep the board simple inside. Like the piranha nuts, better than banjo’s and give you more space to bring the glands closer together.
From the uneducated perspective, looks like a nice board, it has cables and doesn't look like a huge mess of pretty coloured spaghetti! As someone else mentioned, these kinds of install are set and forget (apart from testing), when it's offices or education space, the change is neigh on constant so the real trick there is maintaining a nice looking install!
I use thease boards a lot they are great we use finger trunking in the Db which looks very neat and clean. I would also use banjo rather than earthing nuts. But tidy
SO. Adam is out and Stacey is in? Adam, that's the risk you face when you take days off 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 An interesting video where we get to see some of the wiring and layout of a warehouse. The forklift in floor guidance wire is a brilliant safety and time saving system. To have how it functions explained is a first for me.
Funny because I’m doing this on a job in Canary Wharf at the minute had framework for about 8 risers to do and had 4 giant panels mounted for lighting and power 🤣 board looks neat but I’d of slotted the top of the DB used paxalin and fixed a header trunking on top that way you’ve got plenty of space to gland into the top. Frameworks ok but im picky and like them cut to length not over hanging and it needs end caps.
We normally hang those FLT chargers off the Uni strut with a couple of Zebadies, better to keep them off the floor or the muppets always drive their FLT forks into them when the pull up to charge it.
That board looks neat. I feel like commercial/industrial is more relaxed, chill, get to have fun and banter/bond with the colleagues. Where as residential is more stress because this 1 customer is paying for your time. Also I see that in commercial people like to wire things with more loops and larger bends. Which actually makes sense, because in commercial you have a lot of that same work to do. If you were to bend all those wires in perfect 90 degrees, it would take much more time. Also the next sparky to come in wont necessarily be so precise and throw it in, then it just looks crap😬. But almost every electrician can leave things in a slack bend
Eaton superior design imo certainly I terms of the casing as you have a removable top and bottom plate for access. Scneider casing is dogshite in comparison. Schneider dB inside however I prefer the earth at the top gives more room down the side of the breakers as its only live and neutral so gives 33% more room! Eaton casing with schneider internals would be the perfect commercial DB imo.
If a contractor took up the whole top of the board like that on one of my jobs I would make them replace it , 50% of the board circuits is taking up by 100% of the top , none and neat inside and a good job , but allways thing of the next guy
Would have to disagree ! Not here for anyone else , I’m thinking of my responsibility and reputation not others - and how difficult or easy I like the job to play out ! If the next guy is in a tough spot because of my good work unfortunately that is tough! He’s not paying for my time the customer is.
I agree. A bit time consuming and unnecessary. As long as the conductors are suitability terminated then it's satisfactory. DB is very neat though, great job. 👍
Agree it isn't strictly necessary. Often ferrels aren't "manufacturer approved" for stranded cable either... But they will make the termination last longer if the cable is going to be re-inserted several times in its lifespan (e.g. EICRs). Sometimes it's the little (unnecessary) touches that separate a good job from a top quality job 😉 ...Not saying I'd bother though, in most cases 😂
Can't believe you left that first cable dressed like that, where is your pride. Mt ocd couldn't leave those dressed like a row of condemned houses. You needed to get the bends made so the cables sat straight before stripping for the gland. Adam wouldn't have made that mistake. Lol
@@NBundyElectrical Yellow thing on top of board is for moving them over ;) different world I guess to you I'm having same issue doing domestic mainly cable routes I find a nightmare.
Wow bro like always amazing job looks amazing nice neat tidy really good and funny content. Poor Adam and his mum hahahahah 🤣 Adam's mum what. 😭🤣🤣. I seen that trick for armoured cables use ratchet tie straps to hold it into place and it will stay where its been put to make it nice and neat and straight. I know normally it's used on bigger armoured cables.
I can’t understand why you’d fit a dab like that and not put trunking along the top to gland into, it would be easier for you and for the next person to gland into .
I hope you de-rated all the MCBs to allow for that grouping in the DB, group of six in an unventilated enclosure, is not the same as swa's on perforated rack.
No need to put flyleads on as swa has cable has an earth core. Db casing is earthed so what's the point as armour is earthed through that. Deffo should have used trunking on top to allow future cables. If not then at least put cables closer! Very selfish and no rhought for others lol!
Hi Nick I didn't think we were meant to use ferrules on stranded wire, just on multi stranded. Because the stranded wire doesn't distort enough to guarantee a good connection.
Are the conductors now suitably rated for the circuit after the bundling derating factor is taken into account for that many tied together? Only big question with using ties to make it neat...
Looks good, might need to invest in that knipex stripper you used to strip sheath off SWA core. Don’t think you’re meant to put ferrules on that type of cable btw!
@@RobertLow18 doesn't matter since the conductors will be crushed by the terminals. Again, it's to keep the few strands together. when you flex the cable there's a good chance they'll go out of alignment and piss you off.
@@dimitar4y yes I know it’s to keep the strands together, I am an electrician and use ferrules regularly. But they shouldn’t be used on this type of cable
efixx did a really good video going into the nuances of what cable classes you can/should use ferrels on. Basically, most ferrels are type tested on flex (class 3), a few are type tested on stranded (class 2). It comes down to manufacturers instructions and engineering judgement. Ferrels are pretty much required for flex in screw terminals, because there's a good chance of the screw damaging the flex strands. But there's no hard and fast rules on stranded. Some argue that they don't do any harm if the terminal will "crush" the cable anyway, since it's effectively "extra" crimping. The counter argument is that (depending on crimp brand), they may not be type tested for stranded cables. But BS7671 only tells us to _consider_ manufacturers instructions, not to follow them as gospel. We are entitled to use our engineering judgement. Whilst ferrels aren't required on stranded conductors, they do still do a good job of holding all the strands together. Often you see strands spreading out (e.g. as cables are dressed into a box), causing the connection to loosen. This is less likely when ferrels are used. So there is some benefit, even if it's not the main intended use of the crimps. I wouldn't recommend using crimps that aren't type tested against the cable class your using unless you are going to further compress/crush the connection... E.g. with a screw terminal or cage clamp.
On the banjos - is there a reason you put it on the outside and drill through the enclosure? I always put the banjo on the inside, bend the end of it up and put the fly lead on that bit. Much like you do with the piranha nut but saves buying an extra thing or having to drill another hole. The first time I saw one drilled through like that I thought "what idiot's done that, it's far more effort" but then I started to realise that it's the normal method!
Like you mentioned the normal and standard way to do it is to drill a hole and bolt it down. Wether it is inside or outside of the enclosure is personal choice. Doing it your way weakens the banjo. I have seen banjos snapped off where someone has bent it instead of drilling it.
@@MrImATarget Good point, I guess you'd just have to be careful. I've not seen a damaged one yet but I can see that it would be possible. At the end of the day doubling over a conductor can also damage it if you do it over and over and I'm only talking about a slight tweak. Enough that the screw head fits! You generally have to fit the fly lead before fitting the banjo otherwise it's really awkward to get the screw in.
I've never understood why it matters being inside or outside. But having it bolted through makes it more mechanically sound (no chance of the banjo snapping off) and also adds adds more surface area to the earth connection. In fact, if you know what you're glanding into has a good earth connection, you can bolt on a banjo _without_ a fly lead and it'll continue the earth to the SWA better than just a locknut alone. Banjos are also often used in combination with scraping paint off of the area that the banjo will cover. In this scenario, you're already at a disadvantage fighting against paint, so you want as much surface area as possible. Personally, I'd still prefer a pirrannah nut thought as it actively bites into the metal - and through any paint in the way
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello Nick.
I recommend when doing SWA cable to strip the double insulated layer once you have the cable in the D.B, score it first, but with bigger sizes you run the risk of ripping the cores insulation on the gland as you pull the cores through.
Very nice board and extremely functional. There's two types of commercial/industrial, one where it's fit and forget and that's the fit out forever, the second is where they're constantly changing layouts. You've dressed the cable nicely for the latter and honestly that's preferable for most of the places we work.
you can just imagine the spark many years from now going back for a wiring fault, they open up the cover expecting a birds nest of cables and see your work and thinking ahhh thank god. Tidier than most I see mate 👏
Would definitely of slotted the board and put trunking on with paxolin, as it looks difficult now to add more circuits neat in the future.
Click on neutral and that board footprint is pretty common in residential in North America now. It's always interesting to see the different standards.
Looks very pretty, but by cutting the cpc to fit at the top now make those circuits potentially not future proof. There is plenty of room in the enclosure to run all conductors to the the base and back up again, terminating as you have done. This way any adjustments or future board changes are not restricted by the length of the cables left by the previous installer. Also, the swa's are spaced too far apart making future additions untidy. I agree with the comment regarding the use of a box trunking and a slot or large bushes.
probably would have put a big lump of metal trunking on top and jig sawed out a nice space on the of the board just for space, that said it's not a full on old school industrial environment, where equipment could be changed on a monthly basis, it's lovely and neat but you have restricted it a bit, maybe split either side of the termination at the top and connections from the bottom up, in the board leaving the room for expansion, cheers for your output 👍 top guys
yeah, as some of the other guys have said, id have put 2 rows of 3 on one side as there could be another 6 or even 18 armoured cables going in depending on phase. assuming that i woud have most likley used some metal trunking accross the top of the board and down either side (the sides for aesthetics) to give myself another 200mm across the top of the board.
otherwise, internally very neat.
Artisan Electrics wouldn't get a look in :D
Great work as always.
Header trunking or righting bunching of armours. 50% capacity of that board remaining for future use so need to think of the future work
Never thought about putting the cpcs in the bottom, I've always come from the top, I can see why you've done it though to keep them clear of any future SWA'S going into the top of the board. but I put metal trunking on the top and either pax or 4x 50mm bush and lockrings so I don't have to worry about other SWA'S coming into the top of the board lid and catching the cpcs.
I do the same mate especially with these Schneider boards, only problem I find with them is looming the earths having a 100x100 trunking above works a treat
Looking very neat there Nick.
Smart good boards to work with. I’d Normally run length 4x4 or 6x6 galv trunk over the top and maybe down one side paxolin through to the Db future proof it a little.
Use these boards on every job we do. Neat but next time, 6x6” trunking header on the top, jigged out, paxoline in between, earths go in the top not the bottom. Great boards to use, they also do a rcbo without flying leads. U
You should have cut All the cables Long enough to reach the furthest Breaker and then Dress the slack back on itself. same for Neutrals an Earth cables, also there is no need for boot lace Ferrals on Solid cable- they for stranded cable only.
As a recently retired Industrial sparks of some 50 years I would have destroyed you if you had left those armoured cables as you first terminated them but as you altered the radius of the bends I would say that your connections were fine.if you want to see good distribution board connecting take a visit to the Norwich & Norfolk Hospital where I connected a fair few of them
Looking great Nick. Tidy board too. Thanks for sharing.
Lovely work mate only question would be did u put bootlace ferrules or pin crimps on them cables ?
Looking pretty tidy inside the only real criticism I’d have it you shouldn’t have spaced the cables out like that they should have come in closer or on one side as you have essentially made it impossible for the next person to make it look tidy when they use the rest of the board as there is no tidy places to put glands
Agreed, could have put the cables closer
I always put metal trunking top and bottom that way plenty of space for more armoured’s and stops having to drill into a live board
Great work as always and thanks for the insights
Perhaps we have been doing ware house work wrong all these years but we use that really large trunkings that you used to fix your tray too for holding all our cables as they run all around and at multi levels just used tray to get up or down between. So are we the only ones doing this?
You didn't say but I hope you are fitting metal straps on the tray once all the cables are installed?
Looks good, personally I’d run an earth cable from the bolt which is connected to the SWA up to the earth rail, I don’t know what the MI states on this but it’s belt and braces.
No header on a board that size and using the whole plate on the top for a few cables? Future proofing would be to overrun a header across the top to cover the total size of the board which would then allow you to lose the slack in side the trunking and keep the board simple inside. Like the piranha nuts, better than banjo’s and give you more space to bring the glands closer together.
From the uneducated perspective, looks like a nice board, it has cables and doesn't look like a huge mess of pretty coloured spaghetti! As someone else mentioned, these kinds of install are set and forget (apart from testing), when it's offices or education space, the change is neigh on constant so the real trick there is maintaining a nice looking install!
Great looking work topnotch, one thing I'd change, put isolators next to board or board next to isolators, half the time taken.
I use thease boards a lot they are great we use finger trunking in the Db which looks very neat and clean. I would also use banjo rather than earthing nuts. But tidy
What an awesome system with that forklift!
SO. Adam is out and Stacey is in? Adam, that's the risk you face when you take days off 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 An interesting video where we get to see some of the wiring and layout of a warehouse. The forklift in floor guidance wire is a brilliant safety and time saving system. To have how it functions explained is a first for me.
Funny because I’m doing this on a job in Canary Wharf at the minute had framework for about 8 risers to do and had 4 giant panels mounted for lighting and power 🤣 board looks neat but I’d of slotted the top of the DB used paxalin and fixed a header trunking on top that way you’ve got plenty of space to gland into the top. Frameworks ok but im picky and like them cut to length not over hanging and it needs end caps.
We normally hang those FLT chargers off the Uni strut with a couple of Zebadies, better to keep them off the floor or the muppets always drive their FLT forks into them when the pull up to charge it.
That board looks neat.
I feel like commercial/industrial is more relaxed, chill, get to have fun and banter/bond with the colleagues. Where as residential is more stress because this 1 customer is paying for your time.
Also I see that in commercial people like to wire things with more loops and larger bends. Which actually makes sense, because in commercial you have a lot of that same work to do. If you were to bend all those wires in perfect 90 degrees, it would take much more time. Also the next sparky to come in wont necessarily be so precise and throw it in, then it just looks crap😬. But almost every electrician can leave things in a slack bend
Bootlace crimps are for clexible cable pin crimps should be used on 6491x type stranded cable
I presume this industrial unit is near Avonmouth/Severn beach?
That noise you can hear is the Severnside Sirens.
Don't tie rap in the DB. Heat grouping & poor for fault finding/ testing.
I'd leave some slack but that's how I was trained.
Really fancy trying one of these unilites
Looks neat, I would of had two rows on left-hand side, giving room for future cables on right-hand side. So you not got crossing over each other
I see Unilite in the UK becoming similar to Toughbuilt in the States, I really rate both their stuff.
Great job. I've been up in one of those VNA trucks before, very nervous as I'm not very good with heights. 😆😆😆
Schindler boards earth bar location is terrible imo. No where to leave enough slack on cpc’s much prefer the Eaton range.
Eaton superior design imo certainly I terms of the casing as you have a removable top and bottom plate for access. Scneider casing is dogshite in comparison.
Schneider dB inside however I prefer the earth at the top gives more room down the side of the breakers as its only live and neutral so gives 33% more room! Eaton casing with schneider internals would be the perfect commercial DB imo.
If a contractor took up the whole top of the board like that on one of my jobs I would make them replace it , 50% of the board circuits is taking up by 100% of the top , none and neat inside and a good job , but allways thing of the next guy
Would have to disagree ! Not here for anyone else , I’m thinking of my responsibility and reputation not others - and how difficult or easy I like the job to play out ! If the next guy is in a tough spot because of my good work unfortunately that is tough! He’s not paying for my time the customer is.
@@dangranet7621 bet your works total dogshit with that kind of attitude, considering maintenance and additions to work is part of the regulations
@@dangranet7621 🤦🏼♂️ you wouldn’t last long on a site then with bad moves like that.
Agree. Idiotic spacing of cables.
Looks prefect mate top work👍
Ferals on breakers , something I wouldn't do unless the manufacturer instructions state you should use them
I agree. A bit time consuming and unnecessary. As long as the conductors are suitability terminated then it's satisfactory. DB is very neat though, great job. 👍
Agree it isn't strictly necessary. Often ferrels aren't "manufacturer approved" for stranded cable either... But they will make the termination last longer if the cable is going to be re-inserted several times in its lifespan (e.g. EICRs).
Sometimes it's the little (unnecessary) touches that separate a good job from a top quality job 😉
...Not saying I'd bother though, in most cases 😂
Cpcs are in the wrong terminal and wrong side
Don't use ferrules on SWA, pin crimps if required. Ferrules only for tri rated
Dennis Reid Have you seen the new Armeg cross head driver?
I'd say Adams had long enough to comment now mate. Have words!!!
Can't believe you left that first cable dressed like that, where is your pride.
Mt ocd couldn't leave those dressed like a row of condemned houses. You needed to get the bends made so the cables sat straight before stripping for the gland.
Adam wouldn't have made that mistake. Lol
Nice and neat job as always
Id love working like that :)
that forklift is kinda dope.
Not a proper industrial Spark. No Cable or core numbers, and didnt take 2 weeks to install.
Well done board looks good picked up some good tip from you
jokari ;) Just wondering how them live connections are live without the slider across
they weren't mate, didn't realise about the sliders til after trying to test
@@NBundyElectrical Yellow thing on top of board is for moving them over ;) different world I guess to you I'm having same issue doing domestic mainly cable routes I find a nightmare.
Where is Mike (Residual Current) ?
Friday night - down the pub.
That glanding is brutal mate they are all pissed 😆 your eyes painted on son lol u wouldn't get away with that in ireland.
It’s not the only thing that’s “pissed” though. I’d say 98% of irelands population is.
That cable does not require a ferrule .
Looks smart pal
Wow bro like always amazing job looks amazing nice neat tidy really good and funny content.
Poor Adam and his mum hahahahah 🤣 Adam's mum what. 😭🤣🤣. I seen that trick for armoured cables use ratchet tie straps to hold it into place and it will stay where its been put to make it nice and neat and straight. I know normally it's used on bigger armoured cables.
Top job on the install fella, but what is this Artisan think you keep mentioning!?!
Great one
Nick it looks very good
I can’t understand why you’d fit a dab like that and not put trunking along the top to gland into, it would be easier for you and for the next person to gland into .
Can’t hear Stacy. Or is she on the other channel ?
that forklift is wicked
Earthing Nuts are a waste of terminals right there. Just gutter bolt them to the steel board.
100% no need as got separate earth core!!
Did Nick used to be a plumber?...not the most considerste placement of swa cables
Lovely work Bro 🤟🏼
That board is very well done 👍🏻
Looks good to me Nick.👍
earths and input swa angles, residualcurrent for commercial, savery for to spec, artisan for wallet empty, bundy for domestic cja for across the board
Looking pretty good to me. 👍
Them knifes good class tryed buying 1 there and it’s €24 postage 😞😞😞😞
Great give away, thanks.
I hope you de-rated all the MCBs to allow for that grouping in the DB, group of six in an unventilated enclosure, is not the same as swa's on perforated rack.
Great work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
Looks a good job to me.
No need to put flyleads on as swa has cable has an earth core. Db casing is earthed so what's the point as armour is earthed through that. Deffo should have used trunking on top to allow future cables.
If not then at least put cables closer! Very selfish and no rhought for others lol!
Hi Nick
I didn't think we were meant to use ferrules on stranded wire, just on multi stranded. Because the stranded wire doesn't distort enough to guarantee a good connection.
Should only use on flex
“Eye it up” theres the domestic side coming out 😜
Is Stacy an apprentice?
Im in! Love @unilite stuff
Unilite stuff yes yes yes please nick 😉👍😄
Did you self Tap the tray to the perlin? Good God man 😂
🤣
And the link to Johns RUclips page and Staceys Instagram is? 😂
Missing. 😀
Boom ❤
hai artisan
Artisan electrics v nick bundy electrical fuse board wire off who's quicker and who's looks better. Could be dummys side by side (the boards I meant)
Did they not give you a 5 metre tape measure? 😥😥😥
When’s the next van video coming?
I’m amazed how many ppl want to see a 10 year old van ? 😂
Are the conductors now suitably rated for the circuit after the bundling derating factor is taken into account for that many tied together? Only big question with using ties to make it neat...
I thought he said he was going to remove the cable ties
Looks good, might need to invest in that knipex stripper you used to strip sheath off SWA core. Don’t think you’re meant to put ferrules on that type of cable btw!
ferrules just help with keeping all the strands together so you can insert easier + some strain relief.
@@dimitar4y hi yes I know what ferrules are used for, I use them myself. I only meant that they should not be used on this type of stranded core cable
@@RobertLow18 doesn't matter since the conductors will be crushed by the terminals. Again, it's to keep the few strands together. when you flex the cable there's a good chance they'll go out of alignment and piss you off.
@@dimitar4y yes I know it’s to keep the strands together, I am an electrician and use ferrules regularly. But they shouldn’t be used on this type of cable
efixx did a really good video going into the nuances of what cable classes you can/should use ferrels on. Basically, most ferrels are type tested on flex (class 3), a few are type tested on stranded (class 2). It comes down to manufacturers instructions and engineering judgement.
Ferrels are pretty much required for flex in screw terminals, because there's a good chance of the screw damaging the flex strands. But there's no hard and fast rules on stranded.
Some argue that they don't do any harm if the terminal will "crush" the cable anyway, since it's effectively "extra" crimping.
The counter argument is that (depending on crimp brand), they may not be type tested for stranded cables. But BS7671 only tells us to _consider_ manufacturers instructions, not to follow them as gospel. We are entitled to use our engineering judgement.
Whilst ferrels aren't required on stranded conductors, they do still do a good job of holding all the strands together. Often you see strands spreading out (e.g. as cables are dressed into a box), causing the connection to loosen. This is less likely when ferrels are used. So there is some benefit, even if it's not the main intended use of the crimps.
I wouldn't recommend using crimps that aren't type tested against the cable class your using unless you are going to further compress/crush the connection... E.g. with a screw terminal or cage clamp.
Definitely a Whitney.
It's not right but it's okay.
there is no I in team... but there is a me.
nice job
it looked ok to me
Great job and video. From a plumbers view anyway 😜
Adam does a good job but he's not as good looking as Stacey is.
looks nice but lacks that consumer panel clean look for sure.
It's industrial and not in your house so doesn't have to look anything other than dirty in no time at all nick....
On the banjos - is there a reason you put it on the outside and drill through the enclosure?
I always put the banjo on the inside, bend the end of it up and put the fly lead on that bit. Much like you do with the piranha nut but saves buying an extra thing or having to drill another hole.
The first time I saw one drilled through like that I thought "what idiot's done that, it's far more effort" but then I started to realise that it's the normal method!
That's how we were trained to do it but now that I've heard your way I'm changing. Why did I never think of that before. 🤷♂️
Like you mentioned the normal and standard way to do it is to drill a hole and bolt it down. Wether it is inside or outside of the enclosure is personal choice. Doing it your way weakens the banjo. I have seen banjos snapped off where someone has bent it instead of drilling it.
@@MrImATarget Good point, I guess you'd just have to be careful. I've not seen a damaged one yet but I can see that it would be possible.
At the end of the day doubling over a conductor can also damage it if you do it over and over and I'm only talking about a slight tweak. Enough that the screw head fits!
You generally have to fit the fly lead before fitting the banjo otherwise it's really awkward to get the screw in.
Bending the Banjo is rough in my opinion, normal method would be outside with brass bolt
I've never understood why it matters being inside or outside. But having it bolted through makes it more mechanically sound (no chance of the banjo snapping off) and also adds adds more surface area to the earth connection.
In fact, if you know what you're glanding into has a good earth connection, you can bolt on a banjo _without_ a fly lead and it'll continue the earth to the SWA better than just a locknut alone.
Banjos are also often used in combination with scraping paint off of the area that the banjo will cover. In this scenario, you're already at a disadvantage fighting against paint, so you want as much surface area as possible.
Personally, I'd still prefer a pirrannah nut thought as it actively bites into the metal - and through any paint in the way
goood stuff boyos
perfect nick super job and with adam not there bye bye now