In lieu of grease, you can use anti-seize compound. It’s less likely to melt and fly around in there. Anti-seize will stay in place and prevent the mating surfaces from corroding. It’s also good general practice to knock off any rust scale with a wire brush and to coat the metal with some old motor oil. It helps slow down corrosion and reduces rust scale.
Especially considering the second view into the job, I'm not convinced you need to remove the caliper hanger. The other stuff you might tighten good-enough, but stuff like that I'd wanna make sure. For the other geeks, Chilton says: Front caliper hanger 79 ftlb Front slide pins 25 ftlb Wheel 76 ftlb Rear hanger 58 ftlb Slide pins 20 ftlb Bleed screws 73 in-lb (8.3 Nm)
You forgot the squealer devices on the pads. They also keep the pads from rattling. They need to be installed with them at the top of the pad so it keeps the pad forced in the direction of rotation. They were in the hardware kit. I saw them at 6:12 in your video. Also no grease on the rotor. You also should wire brush the face of the hub. A little grease on the tips of the pads. Not much though. You did a great job of showing the rest of the replacement.
Not really. The best practice is to wire brush/wheel the rust/corrosion off of the hub/rotor hat and use anti-seize to prevent corrosion/sticking in the future.
It’s shouldn’t be required to do that full process. I just did mine based off this video. He went the extra mile. I just took that first peice off and slid in the new brakes then decompressed the the brake piece - forget the name of it. Shouldn’t NEED to go that far with it. But it is good to do a little extra every now and then to keep it in good shape
Do you know if the 2012 Toyota Camry 4cyl LE has only front brakes? I will need to know this because I'm going to take it for a brake inspection, but I am sure the brake pads may need replacement and who knows if the rotors too, for they haven't been changed in 9 years. I tell you this because I don't want to be had and paying too much since I am sure I may need brake pads and rotors replacement. Does anyone know how much I should pay in November 2021 for brake pads, rotors, and labor or whatever else it's needed? Thanks for your video.
I don't think that is true...whomever told you that may have meant that it only has front brake pads for disc brakes...maybe has drum brakes on the rear...I'm pretty sure all newer cars have front and rear brakes.
All camrys made after 2000 is guaranteed to have rear brakes. Heck I would say all Toyotas within that period, except for maybe the corollas, matrix, or yaris, is gonna have rear brakes(not drums)
im doing my fronts this week im going Toyota Oem reason Why i got 147000 miles and still have meat left but Pulsating so its time plus there cheaper including hardware kit less than 300.00 for fronts
What's your opinion on the normal rotor vs the drilled/slotted? I currently have drilled/slotted rotors that came with my car and I like the bite they have. I've noticed my pads wear out pretty fast though. Great DIY video!
I like the drilled and slotted myself, but this is also our family hauler. Im not racing or needing the aggressive capabilities of those types of rotors... But yea they are awesome for performance based vehicles.
I installed the drilled slotted rotors on my daughter's Camry. I noticed the brakes were squealing within a few months. I changed pads and had the same problem. Bought new regular rotors and so far it's been more than a year and I haven't heard anymore brake noises.
Why does every single video for Camry front pads have different variations of the small clip on the “ear” of the pad? This guy doesn’t have any on the outer pad at all. All kits come with them. Why didn’t you use them?
I used what came with the kit my friend... simple and direct replacement like the video shows. Not here to complicate anything for anyone, just making peoples lives easier by saving a buck doing the job yourself. Appreciate the comment.
I have a question, went I bought the brakes at a toyota dealer, they didn't bring the squeale/ clip hat go in the caliper, can I buy them in the auto parts store?
Once the bolts come off the rotor, it should be able to come off without anything else holding it. I’ve had a similar issue with a stuck rotor: I understand you said the hammer didn’t work but you really gotta bang the hell out of it. It might be due to rust. If the emergency brake was the engaged and causing the issue, you would notice it when driving as well.
In lieu of grease, you can use anti-seize compound. It’s less likely to melt and fly around in there. Anti-seize will stay in place and prevent the mating surfaces from corroding.
It’s also good general practice to knock off any rust scale with a wire brush and to coat the metal with some old motor oil. It helps slow down corrosion and reduces rust scale.
Thanks for a great video - confirms that I will be taking this job to my mechanic despite the cost!
all good man!
you have forgot the spring tentioners for the last one...that's why people used to have extra parts after fixing the car...lol
There was no spring on the rear brake pads if you pay attention
Especially considering the second view into the job, I'm not convinced you need to remove the caliper hanger. The other stuff you might tighten good-enough, but stuff like that I'd wanna make sure.
For the other geeks, Chilton says:
Front caliper hanger 79 ftlb
Front slide pins 25 ftlb
Wheel 76 ftlb
Rear hanger 58 ftlb
Slide pins 20 ftlb
Bleed screws 73 in-lb (8.3 Nm)
thanks for this add in!
You forgot the squealer devices on the pads. They also keep the pads from rattling. They need to be installed with them at the top of the pad so it keeps the pad forced in the direction of rotation. They were in the hardware kit. I saw them at 6:12 in your video.
Also no grease on the rotor. You also should wire brush the face of the hub. A little grease on the tips of the pads. Not much though.
You did a great job of showing the rest of the replacement.
God bless this gentleman for an excellent video
thank you sir
Excellent brake replacement video. Thank You.
Excellent Video. Good note on adding grease. Thx!!
i dont think it is... that grease i would i think fling out on the rotor.. not good.
Not really. The best practice is to wire brush/wheel the rust/corrosion off of the hub/rotor hat and use anti-seize to prevent corrosion/sticking in the future.
Excellent demonstration, specially the front and rear view of how things are laid out. At least for a novice like my self.
Thank you,
appreciate this comment, try to make things simple and easy - thanks again
Good job but caliper pins should of been regreased
He shows you that with the other wheel (the reverse angle shot in the second half of the video)
Caliper bracket bolts 79 ft/lbs Caliper pins 25ft/lbs
Appreciate that, thanks!
a torque wrench and proper tightening specs are your friend..
I was like what about the torque wrench?
Great video very educational I think I'm going to change my rotters when I brake the front is starting to shake
did you end up doing it yourself?
awesome!
Front disc pad should have a “squealer” clip/wear indicator? Typically removed from old pads and replaced on new pad.
He his missing more parts then just that. . . .
DO NOT PUT GREASE ON YOUR HUBS !!! AS THIS JOKER DID, it will mess with the runout of the rotor
Does this car have ABS? If so, did you need to mess with its sensors at all while doing this? Thanks.
I’m curious about the rear pads? Do these not get the little spring clips on pads?
thank you ,you are best
Thanks
Back of the rotor or back of the car?
Thanks, in general great job!
thank you
Didn't grease the sliders on the brake pads. Didn't say the ft/lbs to screw the bolts back in.
rookie mistake...
I don't think I'm be doing my own. I didn't realize that there's so many things to do just to replace the brakes.
Good video though thanks for that
It’s shouldn’t be required to do that full process. I just did mine based off this video. He went the extra mile. I just took that first peice off and slid in the new brakes then decompressed the the brake piece - forget the name of it. Shouldn’t NEED to go that far with it. But it is good to do a little extra every now and then to keep it in good shape
Do you know if the 2012 Toyota Camry 4cyl LE has only front brakes? I will need to know this because I'm going to take it for a brake inspection, but I am sure the brake pads may need replacement and who knows if the rotors too, for they haven't been changed in 9 years. I tell you this because I don't want to be had and paying too much since I am sure I may need brake pads and rotors replacement. Does anyone know how much I should pay in November 2021 for brake pads, rotors, and labor or whatever else it's needed? Thanks for your video.
I don't think that is true...whomever told you that may have meant that it only has front brake pads for disc brakes...maybe has drum brakes on the rear...I'm pretty sure all newer cars have front and rear brakes.
All camrys made after 2000 is guaranteed to have rear brakes. Heck I would say all Toyotas within that period, except for maybe the corollas, matrix, or yaris, is gonna have rear brakes(not drums)
Every vehicle has front and rear brakes....
@@thooks1234 hes talking about disc or drum brakes…
Damn I just bought two rotors and 2 pads for 92 total off rock auto. These auto zones and oreillys are so expensive for no reason.
but they are convenient
Good job
thanks dude
dumb question, but this will work on the 2013 LE Camry correct?
Absolutely should work.
im doing my fronts this week im going Toyota Oem reason Why i got 147000 miles and still have meat left but Pulsating so its time plus there cheaper including hardware kit less than 300.00 for fronts
hope it helped?
Thanks!
remember your jack stands . stay safe
indeed!
Was that 14mm socket or 15mm? Beginning says 14, at 10 min says 15.
14
What's your opinion on the normal rotor vs the drilled/slotted? I currently have drilled/slotted rotors that came with my car and I like the bite they have. I've noticed my pads wear out pretty fast though.
Great DIY video!
I like the drilled and slotted myself, but this is also our family hauler. Im not racing or needing the aggressive capabilities of those types of rotors... But yea they are awesome for performance based vehicles.
I installed the drilled slotted rotors on my daughter's Camry. I noticed the brakes were squealing within a few months. I changed pads and had the same problem. Bought new regular rotors and so far it's been more than a year and I haven't heard anymore brake noises.
Great information
thank you
shorter slide pin is going upside or downside on caliper?
Great video thank u
Thanks for watching!
Why does every single video for Camry front pads have different variations of the small clip on the “ear” of the pad? This guy doesn’t have any on the outer pad at all.
All kits come with them. Why didn’t you use them?
I used what came with the kit my friend... simple and direct replacement like the video shows. Not here to complicate anything for anyone, just making peoples lives easier by saving a buck doing the job yourself. Appreciate the comment.
Anybody know if there is a difference bewtween this and doing them on same year hybrid model?
honestly not sure...
Is it the same process for my Honda Accord Sport?
Come on bro, come on now... lol
How do u loosen a bolt if it’s to thigh so rusty man
Spray some wd 40, or pb blaster all over it... let it work in all the groves and then give it a crack.
Also try a breaker bar or a regular wrench with a pipe attached like in this video
I have a question, went I bought the brakes at a toyota dealer, they didn't bring the squeale/ clip hat go in the caliper, can I buy them in the auto parts store?
The squeal clip dose not come with the pads. It's comes with the shim(anti squeal) kit!
the clips i have replaced with that kit act as the squeal too, just a heads up. If they wear down far enough, believe me you brakes will squeal...
How do to secure the rotar?
just push it on, no screw...
Why do guys wear gloves when working on stuff???
Better grip for me, ha
@@TheRealSkeptyk gloves get in the way for me….good chance of getting them hung up etc. Just weird to me.
protect your hands
@@cwetherington yeah because all these lubricants and cleaners (specially brake cleaners) are skin safe
I never wore gloves either. But Ill tell you what, put them on around sharp stuff and you'll be happy you did
Can't get my rotor off. Hammer doesn't do it. Is e brake locking it somehow and how do I release it?
Once the bolts come off the rotor, it should be able to come off without anything else holding it. I’ve had a similar issue with a stuck rotor: I understand you said the hammer didn’t work but you really gotta bang the hell out of it. It might be due to rust.
If the emergency brake was the engaged and causing the issue, you would notice it when driving as well.
don't forget jackstands man
Lol, absolutely
In lieu of proper torque, you can just really reef on it like you did in this video..... lol
😂
I’m glad you didn’t go for slotted rotors because for this car not really worth it..
boo that piston needs too move freely boss up if it dont and overhaul otherwise push back in with ur fingers and bleeder valve open picklejuice
wow wow wwwwhhhhooooowwwwaaahh sweetbeef too much grease can hydraloc caliper guide pin boss up hoss yup