I want to say thanks a lot man! This fixed my issue I was having today with under extrusion and my prints not sticking to the build plate. Well detailed and easy to follow. Thanks again!
Holy Moly I upgraded my extruder today and was only getting 67.5mm ... chaged the estep (Transmission ration on my Ender) and it was exactly 100mm!!! Thank you so much!!
You have explained it extremely well. Thank you. E steps seemed so complicated to me and I was just too threatened by it.. Thanks to you I have now set my machine's e steps and feel that much smarter...All Hail !🙌
Thanks bro! I appreciate the support. When I started making videos I wanted to make sure they were easy enough for new people to understand. So I'm glad it was helpful.
Good video. Don't cut it before you measure though, use the upper jaws to measure it to the face while it's still in the extruder. Easy to pull it straight and measure. Release the filament, pull it back close to flush, cut short piece and recheck.
Haha I totally get that. A lot of others seem to expect everyone to already know terminology, and other things when explaining stuff. I'll definitely make a video for how to setup your flow correctly. Give me a day or so and I'll have it out. Join our discord if you want as well.
Just wanted to say thanks for this simple video tutorial. I upgraded my ender 3 v2 to metal extruder I done the E step measurement and I was pulling on 95mm. Thanks to your video I fixed this to the correct value. Big thank you!
Hey Kevin, I have an Ender 3 V2, and watched your video for calibration instructions. You really did a very nice job of laying out the instructions in an easy to understand fashion. I just paused when necessary and followed along step by step. Everything went perfect and my machine now spits out a perfect 100 mm according to my micrometer. You rock dude , thanks!
I did mine partly another way which I saw done on another channel but I used your help with the screen settings and how to move the extruder as they were connecting their laptop up to the printer and using some program that I do not have... This way I did Not have to remove the bowden tube from the extruder. I just took the filament out and marked 120mm then put the filament and loaded it into the extruder to the first line then used your way to extrude 100mm then marked the filament at the front of the extruder where I also started with the line on the start of the 120mm section. I took the filament out and measured the remaining distance which was 22mm and using your formula it was under extruding so I changed the setting, saved it and turned the printer off, and did it again and now it is spot on 100mm of length extruded.. thank you for the help.. much appreciated.
Awesome tuturial!! Just added the all metal extrudder kit, the capricorn tubing and the dual z axis kit. Idk how my prints have even been turning out so well because it was only extruding 65mm until I calibrated it via the steps in the video with a final transmission number of 143.0 I get a perfect 100mm now every time.
You are great. The easiest to follow. I watched other videos and the process was so tricky that I literally didn't do my calibration. But after your video, I will do it right after writing the comment. One question - squeezing or pressing at the extruder will result in any error or not? I mean is it require to verify the length before and after the extruder side? Great work man. Thanks a lot
On ender 3 pro 32 bit 4.2.2 original firmware, you MUST have sd card in place or when you cycle power nothing will be saved. Path is different, Prepare>Motion>Extrude. This might apply to other versions also. Thanks dude. I have watched many videos on this but they all assumed we knew how to manually extrude.
hella nice video my dude! one little ting that wasn't mentioned in the video is that if you are running original software you need to have the SD card in to save the config and the new e step config will only show up after a reboot once the card is installed!
Small tip to make measuring easier: straighten the filament a little after cutting, then tape it to the bed in a straight line leaving only the ends exposed. Much easier and accurate measuring. Thank you for the video. I've been having some strange problems with my cr-10. Running this, I found out it was different every time. After replacing the gear/roller with the bad teeth, I found it was 11% off from the factory. yikes!
thank you. very helpful. Instead of taking off the boden tube, I took a piece of 120mm filament and inserted it in until flush then moved back -100mm and cut flush. using your calculations I got to 100.1 - 100.14. I'm new to 3d printing and anything I can do to make the garbage I'm printing look better is a step in the right direction :) - thank you.
right on bro! welcome to the hobby, glad the guide helped. Join our discord server if you want, a bunch of us who are new to 3d printing in there. Link is in the video description.
Jesus H. DICKS! I wish I'd found this like 3 hours ago. This other video had me downloading proterface and connecting cables, updating firmware. What a nightmare! Thank sweet baby jesus I found this video! Thank you!!!
Thank you thank you!!! My e-step was waaaaaay off. This was so easy to follow and you did such a great job explaining it. New sub here! Also former 509er!
Incase confused like I was: For some reason my fist extrusion after changing e steps is still off a little. The second and third extrusion were dead on. I was thinking that the calculation can be inconsistent but seems to be really good now!! Just that first extrusion was yielding a different result
Just a note: AT 9:00 minutes you casually mentioned that "you just power cycled the printer" before checking the new E-step calibration. You MUST power cycle the printer otherwise the new offset value gets added to the old value and the 100mm length will be way to much - in my case it was around 106mm. After power cycling it was perfect. Great video though!
If you do it this way, when you actually run it thru the hotend then it will come up short, so the best way is to run the filament thru the hotend for a better reading
This was really easy to follow, many thanks. I just had a couple of questions. I saw estep calibration on another tutorial, where instead of updating the printer, it updated the slicer (Cura) - is that just an alternative? I also recall reading that changes on the printer are stored on the microSD card? Is that right?
Thanks bro! Glad it was helpful. You can only update your esteps on your printer, not the slicer software (I'm not 100% sure on that, but that's my understanding) as for the SD card, some printers like the ender 3 v2 save the esteps info on the SD card. So you will want to make sure your SD card is in your printer when you update the esteps. This is the file you will see on the SD card called eprom. You can add commands for the printer to execute before it prints via the slicing software (cura) but I don't think esteps is one of them. For example, that is how you tell your printer to always do an auto bed level before each print.
Thank you for the instruction! I would have expected that measuring with the Bowden tube and hot end connected would give a more accurate reading comparable to a "real life" scenario?
There are other ways to compensate for "real life" scenarios. Steps/mm links the motor rotation to a rectilinear movement, you want it to be as precise as possible. If using this method you find that your printer under extrude maybe increase the hot-end temperature or raise the extruder multiplier in the slicer.
I got pretty much the same measurement/calculation from both methods. I have a video on how to do it the other way as well if you would like to check as well.
I did this and the final measurement was 100.55. I double checked the measurements and it was accurate. How do you fix that? I did just put a Creality Aluminum extruder on with new gear.
It would help if you would say what the other firmware labels e steps as. Yours is Steps MM E, mine says transmission ratio E. I figured it out though after a frustrating night XD
Everyone on these videos says to do it like you did with it unplugged from the hot end for no resistance… my thought and question is wouldn’t you want to calibrate it with it hooked up just like you were really printing?? If you calibrate it with no resistance and then hook it up and it has resistance when actually printing wouldn’t that through off the calibration??
I appreciate your support. The SD Card does NOT need to be inserted into the printer if you have the TH3D Firmware. But if you are using the original firmware that came on the printer, it stores the settings on the SD card as an "EEPROM" file. You can try hitting store settings without the SD card in the printer, and then power cycle it and double check if it stored your settings. If it did not, then try it again with the SD card in the machine. Hopefully that helped, let me know if you have any other questions.
Measuring a 100mm of a bent filament with a calliper is very hard. What about this instead: 1) Extrude a bit, just long enough to hold between your thumb and finger 2) Mark a line on the filament with a permanent marker at the point of the extruder 3) Extrude 100mm 4) Hold the filament stretched and use your calliper (inner diameter side) to measure the distance between the line and the extruder
If that works then definitely. I agree it was hard to measure the filament. What I do is roll the filament flat, and then tape it down, and then measure it.
@@509drone2 I replaced my extruder this evening with one of the red dual gear models (My original broke after only a few days of use. I think they are all the same, even the one from Creality). I still had to straighten it out, but my packing tape method worked well for holding it down steady for measurement. I did 2 measurement and calculation cycles, but once it got close, I found it easier and faster to dial it in manually. 99.55mm was the closest I think I was going to get after 6 rounds.
![Best Ender 3 V2 Upgrades 🔥 [ 2021 - Updated List ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pik1dwC8o0U/mqdefault.jpg)
![Best Ender 3 V2 Upgrades 🔥 [ 2021 - Updated List ]](/img/tr.png)
I want to say thanks a lot man! This fixed my issue I was having today with under extrusion and my prints not sticking to the build plate. Well detailed and easy to follow. Thanks again!
Right on man! Glad I could help, and I appreciate your support of the channel! Hope you talk to you again!
Holy Moly I upgraded my extruder today and was only getting 67.5mm ... chaged the estep (Transmission ration on my Ender) and it was exactly 100mm!!! Thank you so much!!
You have explained it extremely well. Thank you. E steps seemed so complicated to me and I was just too threatened by it.. Thanks to you I have now set my machine's e steps and feel that much smarter...All Hail !🙌
Thanks bro! I appreciate the support. When I started making videos I wanted to make sure they were easy enough for new people to understand. So I'm glad it was helpful.
Good video. Don't cut it before you measure though, use the upper jaws to measure it to the face while it's still in the extruder. Easy to pull it straight and measure. Release the filament, pull it back close to flush, cut short piece and recheck.
This method was without a doubt not only more accurate but so much easier to do. TY TY TY
Right on man, I'm glad it was helpful!
Hey, could you do flow next? I seem to understand you more than the other youtubers lol
Haha I totally get that. A lot of others seem to expect everyone to already know terminology, and other things when explaining stuff. I'll definitely make a video for how to setup your flow correctly. Give me a day or so and I'll have it out. Join our discord if you want as well.
Not a truer statement!! This guy is 100%. Thank you. Bless you.
aye this is about the easiest i have seen explanation :D
Completely agree for someone who just got one of these a few days ago and knows nothing about how they work this has helped a lot
This is the best video I have found in RUclips to calibrate my extruder steps
Right on, I'm glad it was helpful
For the Ender 3 Pro, the E-steps are in Configuration > Advanced Settings > Steps/mm. Excellent tutorial.
Just wanted to say thanks for this simple video tutorial. I upgraded my ender 3 v2 to metal extruder I done the E step measurement and I was pulling on 95mm. Thanks to your video I fixed this to the correct value. Big thank you!
Thanks bro! Sorry for the late response, I'm glad it was helpful
Hey Kevin,
I have an Ender 3 V2, and watched your video for calibration instructions.
You really did a very nice job of laying out the instructions in an easy to understand fashion. I just paused when necessary and followed along step by step. Everything went perfect and my machine now spits out a perfect 100 mm according to my micrometer.
You rock dude , thanks!
Thanks bro!
@@509drone2 :)
I did mine partly another way which I saw done on another channel but I used your help with the screen settings and how to move the extruder as they were connecting their laptop up to the printer and using some program that I do not have... This way I did Not have to remove the bowden tube from the extruder. I just took the filament out and marked 120mm then put the filament and loaded it into the extruder to the first line then used your way to extrude 100mm then marked the filament at the front of the extruder where I also started with the line on the start of the 120mm section. I took the filament out and measured the remaining distance which was 22mm and using your formula it was under extruding so I changed the setting, saved it and turned the printer off, and did it again and now it is spot on 100mm of length extruded.. thank you for the help.. much appreciated.
Awesome tuturial!! Just added the all metal extrudder kit, the capricorn tubing and the dual z axis kit. Idk how my prints have even been turning out so well because it was only extruding 65mm until I calibrated it via the steps in the video with a final transmission number of 143.0 I get a perfect 100mm now every time.
You are great. The easiest to follow. I watched other videos and the process was so tricky that I literally didn't do my calibration. But after your video, I will do it right after writing the comment. One question - squeezing or pressing at the extruder will result in any error or not? I mean is it require to verify the length before and after the extruder side?
Great work man. Thanks a lot
Great video. I found if you lay the filament on the heated bed for a few minutes and roll it with your fingers, you’ll get a straight piece.
Followed this to the t. Thanks, bruv!
First time I'd done this and it was 6mm out. Thanks.
I had to do the whole procedure twice to get to the right length but now it's spot on. Thanks!
This is the best explanation and method I've found on RUclips. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this from France. One of the clearest video I have seen on the topic !!
Mate dead set you have exsplaind this so much better then the last 3 vids i have watched thank you your a legend keep it up 🙏
Thank You. Replaced the Extruder with a Duel drive. my setting in now 142.2. Worked a Treat. And Knowing the math behind it.
Glad it helped
I'll be doing this today...hope it solves my problem.. I was intimidated, but you made it look completely doable!! Thank you!
I have looked in my history for 30 mins straight for this video... best one there is imo and worth it!
BTW it also works on an Ender 5 Pro!
Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words!
Thanks man...this video is a big relief to me...thanks and keep sharing more.
On ender 3 pro 32 bit 4.2.2 original firmware, you MUST have sd card in place or when you cycle power nothing will be saved. Path is different, Prepare>Motion>Extrude. This might apply to other versions also. Thanks dude. I have watched many videos on this but they all assumed we knew how to manually extrude.
Correct
I was having a lot of under extrusion and this video really helped me sort it out with my E-Steps. Thank you so much.
Right on man, I'm glad my video helped! Sorry for the late reply. How has the printing been going? Getting some super clean prints now?
Excellently explained, very easy to follow. Thank you!
Glad it was easy to follow! Thanks for the comment.
hella nice video my dude! one little ting that wasn't mentioned in the video is that if you are running original software you need to have the SD card in to save the config and the new e step config will only show up after a reboot once the card is installed!
This is my goto anytime I need to do a esteps calibration they way you explain it is just easier to remember 👍
Thank you so much, I just learned new thing ;-)
I just want to thank you alot, mate. This is way easier than using a pen to mark on the filament, and I think It's more accuracy as well
Thanks man! Glad my video helped. Subscribe to my channel for more 3D printing content.
Great tutorial, clear and informative. Made my calibration a breeze.
Keep your test filament straight with a couple pieces of tape on the work surface.
Was literally gonna do this tonight and you happen to upload a video on just the thing... Thanks mate
Right on, glad I could help!
Thanks! Simple instructions for a simple man, just the way I like it.
thank you! mine was called transmission ratio but it’s the same thing
Thanks a lot man! easy to follow. I was having the under extrusion problem and hoping this will fix it.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Small tip to make measuring easier: straighten the filament a little after cutting, then tape it to the bed in a straight line leaving only the ends exposed. Much easier and accurate measuring. Thank you for the video. I've been having some strange problems with my cr-10. Running this, I found out it was different every time. After replacing the gear/roller with the bad teeth, I found it was 11% off from the factory. yikes!
thank you. very helpful. Instead of taking off the boden tube, I took a piece of 120mm filament and inserted it in until flush then moved back -100mm and cut flush. using your calculations I got to 100.1 - 100.14. I'm new to 3d printing and anything I can do to make the garbage I'm printing look better is a step in the right direction :) - thank you.
right on bro! welcome to the hobby, glad the guide helped. Join our discord server if you want, a bunch of us who are new to 3d printing in there. Link is in the video description.
Jesus H. DICKS! I wish I'd found this like 3 hours ago. This other video had me downloading proterface and connecting cables, updating firmware. What a nightmare!
Thank sweet baby jesus I found this video! Thank you!!!
Haha! I'm glad it helped bro :)
Thank you thank you!!! My e-step was waaaaaay off. This was so easy to follow and you did such a great job explaining it. New sub here! Also former 509er!
right on! glad it was helpful, i appreciate the support!
Thank you Kevin, very helpfull for a beginner 👍
Well this was helpful. I like how easier it is to measure filament using this method! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the guide, it was simple to follow your steps and it helped me to set up my printer right!
Very helpful! Will you be doing any more upgrade content? I am just getting started with my V2.
Incase confused like I was: For some reason my fist extrusion after changing e steps is still off a little. The second and third extrusion were dead on. I was thinking that the calculation can be inconsistent but seems to be really good now!! Just that first extrusion was yielding a different result
Thanks for posting. Good info to know!
Exactly! So glad someone had the same thing. At first i panicked, i got 108mm out, then after the second one i always got on point.
This is such a good guide
Thanks my friend! I appreciate the support!
Thanks! This helped me out a ton. The E3V2 is my 1st printer too. You earned a like & sub from me.
Subbed because of this video. Thank you.
Legend! Great video man
Thanks for this video, helped me a lot. THX so much
great video bro
Just a note: AT 9:00 minutes you casually mentioned that "you just power cycled the printer" before checking the new E-step calibration. You MUST power cycle the printer otherwise the new offset value gets added to the old value and the 100mm length will be way to much - in my case it was around 106mm. After power cycling it was perfect. Great video though!
Had no idea I had to do this. Thanks.
lol neither did I when i first started :) Glad it helped.
mine was only giving me 63mm of filament thanks alot man!!! helped me loads
Thanks for this. Great tutorial.
thanks for the tutorial, easy and clear
Thanks boss, works perfect now.
I was like 8mm under.
Settings was 93.
I changed it to 101.1
Lets do the test.
Thanks!!
np bro!
Great video my extruder was way off
Thanks man! Glad my video helped. Subscribe to my channel for more 3D printing content.
If you do it this way, when you actually run it thru the hotend then it will come up short, so the best way is to run the filament thru the hotend for a better reading
Got a sub from me! Open air e-step calibration done simply! Thank you!!
Awesome, thank you!
OMG! I did it!! 😄
Congrats!
Awesome tutorial, thank you so much!
That was helpful indeed, thanks.
Thank You !!!😁
i like this guy , and i have subscribe to your channel, thank you 🙏
Great how to!
Very good videos, i am confused you have so little subs
This was really easy to follow, many thanks. I just had a couple of questions. I saw estep calibration on another tutorial, where instead of updating the printer, it updated the slicer (Cura) - is that just an alternative? I also recall reading that changes on the printer are stored on the microSD card? Is that right?
Thanks bro! Glad it was helpful. You can only update your esteps on your printer, not the slicer software (I'm not 100% sure on that, but that's my understanding) as for the SD card, some printers like the ender 3 v2 save the esteps info on the SD card. So you will want to make sure your SD card is in your printer when you update the esteps. This is the file you will see on the SD card called eprom. You can add commands for the printer to execute before it prints via the slicing software (cura) but I don't think esteps is one of them. For example, that is how you tell your printer to always do an auto bed level before each print.
@@509drone2 Legend. Thanks mate, really appreciate it.
Excellent video very easy to follow thanks.👍
+1👍 💪 thanks man! seems better than pushing through nozzle and getting bounceback from long bowden tube.
Obrigado! Consegui calibrar minha Ender 3 V2 perfeitamente! Thanks from Brazil
Great tutorial, I wonder if you would get the same extrusion amount pushing it through the nozzle?
Would your values need to change?
I think that will work as well, but it won't be as accurate.
I think you are on to something. You calibrate it without resistance...then you gonna use it while adding resistance...
Great tutorial, thanks man!
grate video thanks mate
Great video! Going to do this once I swap out my extruder.
Great tutorial! Easy to understand. Thanks!
Hey, man, thank you very much for the video. Incredible guide and very well explained. Keep up the awesomeness
thanks brother! appreciate the support!
cheers for showing this so easy to do it that way :)
Thanks help me loads because i put a new metal exstruder on my ender 3 v2
Thanks for this video really helped out a newbie
Thank you ! loud and clear !
Thank you 😊
As simple as possible:) Greate work!
Yes! Thank you!
Thx bud!!!!
Thank you for the instruction! I would have expected that measuring with the Bowden tube and hot end connected would give a more accurate reading comparable to a "real life" scenario?
There are other ways to compensate for "real life" scenarios. Steps/mm links the motor rotation to a rectilinear movement, you want it to be as precise as possible. If using this method you find that your printer under extrude maybe increase the hot-end temperature or raise the extruder multiplier in the slicer.
I got pretty much the same measurement/calculation from both methods. I have a video on how to do it the other way as well if you would like to check as well.
Thank you
DISCLAIMER: after changing your e-step it will normally take 2-3 times to get constantly 100mm
thanks for your time it is greatly appreciated!!!!
Of course! Thank you for the support!
Thanks for this hint,It'll come in really useful when my printer finally gets here:).(Ender 3 Max)
Glad I could help!
its proly better if it takes the friction of the nozzle, etc. into consideration
Very good brother...
I did this and the final measurement was 100.55. I double checked the measurements and it was accurate. How do you fix that?
I did just put a Creality Aluminum extruder on with new gear.
It would help if you would say what the other firmware labels e steps as. Yours is Steps MM E, mine says transmission ratio E. I figured it out though after a frustrating night XD
Thanks very helpful
Everyone on these videos says to do it like you did with it unplugged from the hot end for no resistance… my thought and question is wouldn’t you want to calibrate it with it hooked up just like you were really printing?? If you calibrate it with no resistance and then hook it up and it has resistance when actually printing wouldn’t that through off the calibration??
Great video Kevin, question, why do we need the SD card inserted? Does it store some kind of printer configuration info?
I appreciate your support. The SD Card does NOT need to be inserted into the printer if you have the TH3D Firmware. But if you are using the original firmware that came on the printer, it stores the settings on the SD card as an "EEPROM" file. You can try hitting store settings without the SD card in the printer, and then power cycle it and double check if it stored your settings. If it did not, then try it again with the SD card in the machine. Hopefully that helped, let me know if you have any other questions.
@@509drone2 Oh that's great to know! Loving your videos! Happy printing! :D
Measuring a 100mm of a bent filament with a calliper is very hard. What about this instead:
1) Extrude a bit, just long enough to hold between your thumb and finger
2) Mark a line on the filament with a permanent marker at the point of the extruder
3) Extrude 100mm
4) Hold the filament stretched and use your calliper (inner diameter side) to measure the distance between the line and the extruder
If that works then definitely. I agree it was hard to measure the filament. What I do is roll the filament flat, and then tape it down, and then measure it.
I'm new to this so excuse the dumb question. But shouldnt this done while sending fillament to the hot head?
What about using a piece of clear packing tape to hold it down flat on the table for measurement?
that would work great too! good idea!
@@509drone2 I replaced my extruder this evening with one of the red dual gear models (My original broke after only a few days of use. I think they are all the same, even the one from Creality). I still had to straighten it out, but my packing tape method worked well for holding it down steady for measurement. I did 2 measurement and calculation cycles, but once it got close, I found it easier and faster to dial it in manually. 99.55mm was the closest I think I was going to get after 6 rounds.