I've also 3D printed a lot of car parts including a shifter knob and being able to mess around with the shapes and just see what is ergonomic or fits your style the best is just amazing! I use a Prusa i3 MK3.
I've been printing parts for my race cars since 2015. Best filament to use is HTPLA Carbon Fiber, or Nylon Carbon Fiber, depending on the application and location on the vehicle. You can also prototype with PLA, and then make the final product out of metal once you know the shape fits.
I'm 3D printing a mock up 4-port v-band 6466 turbo manifold for my Focus rs mk3. I built a MK1+++ clone even before the factory was even open and back when JP was stuck in A.TX and I offered him a ride to Dallas. (I wonder if you remember that?) I love both my custom build MK1 and MK2.5. His design has been great for YEARS!
I suggest getting/trying a gunsmith torque screwdriver for assembly and a bit a Purple Loctite 222 or 222ms (is what I use); 10-20inch lbs torque (even torque for the bed = mostly flat, nothing out of tram at all within the correction potential of the printer, even torque again) max in combination with the Loctite, purple will also break away without breaking parts which is ideal and will easily prevent any loosening from vibrations so your work printing and calibrating isn't wasted. I've done this with my printers for 10+ years and my prints have always been very high accuracy for 1000s of hours of printing once everything else is dialed in. I'm mostly able to print things with moving parts internally without issue.
Nice to see 3D printing making a difference. I'm surprised they could do it on a MK3S given the small bed size relative to typical auto part sizes - e.g., A arm.
It is a constant surprise to me to not see companies like this using smoothed 3d prints to lay up custom carbon fibre parts. It's *remarkably* simple to do.
Great video, i did some car parts as well, thinking about printing bigger parts in pieces and laminate it. Engine bay is hot.. no problem with the air intakes and longer runs? - Thanks
It melts, it's just used for testing for a couple of minutes I would say. If it's Abs it can take 100c before it starts to melt, or if you print with PEEK it can take 140c before it starts to deform
@@LimpiezasMyG Others print in PA-CF, especially ePA6-CF holds jp well above 100, depending on brand they should be good for 140-150. it‘s a pretty expensive filament, though. Prints slow and needs a steel nozzle also.
I've also 3D printed a lot of car parts including a shifter knob and being able to mess around with the shapes and just see what is ergonomic or fits your style the best is just amazing! I use a Prusa i3 MK3.
I've been printing parts for my race cars since 2015. Best filament to use is HTPLA Carbon Fiber, or Nylon Carbon Fiber, depending on the application and location on the vehicle. You can also prototype with PLA, and then make the final product out of metal once you know the shape fits.
Can you design a part ground up?
I need a grille making for a car that's discontinued
I'm 3D printing a mock up 4-port v-band 6466 turbo manifold for my Focus rs mk3. I built a MK1+++ clone even before the factory was even open and back when JP was stuck in A.TX and I offered him a ride to Dallas. (I wonder if you remember that?) I love both my custom build MK1 and MK2.5. His design has been great for YEARS!
Just what I need for my 1987 Mustang GT and brand new Prusa Printer!! Cheers 🍻
..that motor, yum 😋
a little shocked that they do not know the difference between throttle bodies and velocity stacks
Maybe he was talking about an ITB conversion? But ya those are velocity stacks regardless.
That wheel fit tool is a great idea
Yes! Best 3-D printer ever. I'm making now a CNC Router tramming tool so I can get that thing as accurate as my MK3S+.
I suggest getting/trying a gunsmith torque screwdriver for assembly and a bit a Purple Loctite 222 or 222ms (is what I use); 10-20inch lbs torque (even torque for the bed = mostly flat, nothing out of tram at all within the correction potential of the printer, even torque again) max in combination with the Loctite, purple will also break away without breaking parts which is ideal and will easily prevent any loosening from vibrations so your work printing and calibrating isn't wasted. I've done this with my printers for 10+ years and my prints have always been very high accuracy for 1000s of hours of printing once everything else is dialed in. I'm mostly able to print things with moving parts internally without issue.
Nice to see 3D printing making a difference. I'm surprised they could do it on a MK3S given the small bed size relative to typical auto part sizes - e.g., A arm.
It is a constant surprise to me to not see companies like this using smoothed 3d prints to lay up custom carbon fibre parts. It's *remarkably* simple to do.
We trying to. Hard to 3d print big enough parts sometimes though. I'm working on a giant one for this reason
I have always known them as carburetor trumpets or velocity stacks.
Yep, the throttle body is below the stacks.
Thx, i made some intakes for a dakar truck, it was awesome project
Wow so sick
dang i need one of those wheel fitment thingys
Awesome
Great video, i did some car parts as well, thinking about printing bigger parts in pieces and laminate it. Engine bay is hot.. no problem with the air intakes and longer runs? - Thanks
Ahhh yes 3d printing and jdm
Is there no intake air filtration in velocity stacks ?
can you 3d print a front grille for my van that isnt made out of chrome?!!
You 3d printed velocity stacks Not throttle bodies…
Where is Prusa connect!
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScw7FhpaZhCApFxI13Ze1Zv-d1RRk6yDxQwZYpru40Fb2Ln2A/viewform
RingGo, you look nothing like my dad, but you have the same name.
Stop along them throttle bodies. They are velocity stacks feeding the throttle bodies. :(
How does it not melt o_o
It melts, it's just used for testing for a couple of minutes I would say. If it's Abs it can take 100c before it starts to melt, or if you print with PEEK it can take 140c before it starts to deform
its an intake... they prototype on abs or whatever and then they do them on carbon fiber. prototyping on carbon fiber would be a huge PITA
@@LimpiezasMyG Others print in PA-CF, especially ePA6-CF holds jp well above 100, depending on brand they should be good for 140-150. it‘s a pretty expensive filament, though. Prints slow and needs a steel nozzle also.
車バカ😆
ughhhh. Machinist here. That manual lathe made me cringe! Clean your equipment!
Awesome