Hi Angus, thanks stopping by! There aren’t any secondary filters, something I’d not thought about as the stacks are quite sturdy and never show any signs of degradation etc. I think it’d take a “mechanical action” (e.g. a crash 😬) for these to smash to the point of being ingested, in which case, I have bigger problems! 😂
I 3d printed a 90 degree elbow that directs air from my cold air intake towards my pod filter, printed in PTEG and been in a year so far, survived a couple of track days with no signs of heat damage
Minding my own business and looking for something to play mindlessly in the background, up you pop and now I've got to stop working for 17 minutes, thanks! In the background my ender is humming away printing the first non WAD (Wood Aided Design) alternator relocation bracket for the 2.0 Duratec going into my hillclimb Micra....I've said it before, it's all your fault!
😂… it’s always a nightmare watching other people on RUclips and not getting on with your own projects! You have my permission to turn off for a week and get the Micra done 👍 (B.t.w. Next video in a week…😂)
I've done it at school a few times and tbh it's alot of fun and very easy. The only issue I had was to get the proper dimensions of the mold with the 3d printer (trial and error)
You were an inspiration for my project, I did the same thing as you. I made an adapter manifold to use 1000rr throttle bodies on my honda civic, made it with carbon fiber filled nylon and have had great results so far. Testing different stacks had been my favorite part so far and I'm looking forward to finding out how it holds up in the summer heat next season
@Alex Grześkowiak i had no issues. but unfortunately the motor i had used it on spun a rod bearing and bent some valves, because of that i cant provide long term data, however i have made a manifold for a different car which will be tested once we convert it to standalone ecu. If you have a honda with a b16 head or b18 type r head im more than willing to share the files with you :)
I absolutly love this, so far I've only 3d printed brackets for sensors and hoses and etc. Im going to give that ASA filament a shot, because Ive been using abs.
Abs isn’t easy to print with for automotive I’ve found. I’ve got 3dxtech i think and their ASA stuff and it’s super strong so far in my prints for my car I don’t need intake strong, but strong enough to hold up the MAF and hold the ECU
Amazing video! I'm a recent mechanical engineering graduate, but fairly new to the world of 3D printing and this video has been incredible at showing me the amazing possibilities out there and a feel for how to do things! Thank you! :D
Mech Eng!!! The true faith!!! May your future be free of Matrix calculations… 😂 I had the same awakening a couple of years ago and basically was the jumping off point for the channel. Glad you enjoyed it!
Great content, thanks for making the video! I've had my turbo'd first gen rx7 running a 3D printed "injector manifold" for close to a year now with nary an issue. It was definitely a huge step up from the prior blow-thru carb setup I had. One suggestion I would really emphasize is the use of proper compression limiters for any through-bolts. Regardless of whether the material is solid beneath it or not, the material will creep and eventually lead to a loose joint - nylons are especially prone to this. It's not the bolt that's coming loose, rather it's the material underneath it slowly moving and relieving the compression force. Heat-set compression limiters are a great option for this as well as the split collar style. Alternatively you can also cut some pipe that's the right size down to what you need. As far as materials go, I printed the injector manifold from NylonX and it's been doing great, although I'd be a little hesitant to print a full manifold from it. I've also got a lot of polycarbonate parts under the hood such as coil brackets and various other bits and bobs. ASA for engine top components makes me a little iffy, but as long as it's not touching the engine I suppose it's fine. With operating temps in the 80-90C range (or sometimes higher) that's getting a little close for comfort in my opinion. Fiber filled ASA, glass or otherwise, would probably be a great option however. Recently I've acquired a few other materials for an upcoming full manifold that I've been working on (same vehicle). eSUN ePAHT-CF and Essentium PPS-CF are the two materials I'm testing, although I have reservations about each. The PA doesn't have as good temperature resistance and is flammable, however the PPS is extremely rigid and not particularly tough with comparatively worse layer adhesion. I'd love to try some 3DXtech PPA-CF but unfortunately I can't hit the 90C recommended chamber temps (it has temperature resistance on par with PPS-CF; 220C continuous). The main concern about temps is that it's a turbo rotary engine, so the intake is mere inches from the turbo and exhaust. On an NA setup I'd be confident that even the ePAHT-CF would do fine. Anywho, thanks again for the video. Keep up the great content!
Thanks for putting this video together, so much useful information. I've been thinking about making a CF Nylon intake for ages, but was worried about it's resistance to fuel, definitely cleared that one up! 🏁
This video inspired me to start using 3D prints on my Rover SD1 project. It's like you say - once you've got the equipment, the know-how, and the confidence, every problem on earth starts to look like it's best solved with a 3D print. Especially stuff like interior trim, clips, and switch holders that are only available used and all very brittle by now.
I have about 80 printed parts on my vw Brasilia, mostly remixed trim pieces, some of them, like my led tail lights are on my channel, but i'm waiting until my speeduino conversion is done to make a video showing all of them. Hopefully on the next pair of months! For the manifold nuts, you can try to use fiberglass washers under them, rc cars from tamiya have those on their motors to stop heat from melting their plastic gearboxes.
Pack your parts in cornstarch and anneal them slowly heat and slowly cool in a oven. Also you might want to try some carbon fiber polycarbonate. I find it better than the sain smart for layer adhesion.
I made an engine swap on my motorbike and use abs printed engine mounting plates for fit test before make some out of steel or aluminum. If you don't have drawings and measurements are hard to get because of space or in my case unknown final position, printing indicator plates and measure against them helps to get a perfect fit. I also printed some small brakeds, jigs and fixtures. Any experience with abs velocity stacks? I really enjoyed the 3 episodes of bringing the itb's in your mini. You are doing a great job!
Found that if I spiral wrap some sandpaper around a die grinder shaft or dremel tool, I can smooth the inside of the velocity stacks nicely. It worked well with taulman 910 but I have never used the CF nylon.
yikes im 2 years late... either way, did you not use an enclosure when printing with ASA? I thought it was also toxic just like ABS. Also, I've been using polymakers polylite-PC (polycarbonate) in the engine bay and have had success with it. Granted it hasnt been in direct contact with the engine, but I do have it close to the turbo manifold and it has held up so far.
I had an E3dv6, and others. It was good, but not a huge improvement for me (at least). I then got the Hemera and it was a big leap ahead. If you’re ever in the position where you’re consider that, it was worth it (in my opinion).
Be sure to watch Makers muse latrst vid. Buts its the comments where the state of the global 3d print and cnc industry. All websites remain down for license transfers so no 3d print license ssles. 12 months infsct and counting. Very serious grim lossed for entire global comunity.
Hi MfM. Just happened upon your channel, I've been dyno testing different sized ITBs on my 2276cc vw beetle. From 36mm up to 48mm... but now I'm playing with trumpets and only have 2 sizes in aluminium. So I'm going to print some. But I'm a complete noob wrt 3d printing.
Just found your channel, some awesome stuff!! Subbed! I'm getting into 3D printing because I'm doing some wacky stuff with a Jeep 258. Do you happen to have a vid on how you figured out your Velocity Stack height/tuning?
Avoid NylonX, it's incredibly overpriced and can't do what other CF Nylons can. Seems like they're using CF powder or whatnot, but it has quite different properties. And not in a favorable way.
Bit late to the party but as they say better late than never. Great content and clearly presented for those of use who aren't engineers. I've designed ITB's for SR20 low port ( sorry not mini ) and have a water jacket between 1 and 2 cylinders. Been trying to find a 3D process and material that will withstand the heat and continual contact with water. I'm interested that yours in nylon CF are doing the job, with a little assistance from the steel plate. Was this a problem for you? I'm also designing a large volume airbox ( for quads ) and thought nylon CF would be the go but from your experience it looks like ASA might be a cheaper alternative as long as it can handle a filter pod hanging of the end of it? I might have to rethink the print direction? Problem is it's 570mm long and that's a big bed. Would prefer not to break it up into smaller pieces.
I use Priline Carbon fiber polycarbonate for a lot of my prints under the hood. I may try this carbon fiber nylon sometime. My Priline filament works great as long as it is not in the valley between the two heads of my Toyota 5MGE engine. I tried printing spark plug wire guides with 100% infill and the one in the valley ended up warping badly. It does get VERY hot there.
i got a 3d printed (ASA) adapter to remove the AFM on my 1.6 miata. With the coid air intake i'm running the adapter sits right between the engine and the radiator and it still fine after one year. I didn't print it but i did design it and got it printed with one of the web services
Mate I was worried printing a connector with ABS for a small hose that goes near the engine, but after seeing this video and how close to the engine and heat you've used these parts, I think I'll be fine :D Thanks a lot
I have been using PLA to make prototype brake brackets. I find that making prototypes is quicker, easier and cheaper than machining aluminium multiple times. I have fitted 4 pot calipers to the rear of an abarth 500, 8 pot calipers to the front of a ford falcon and toyota camry, 6 pot calipers to the front of a ford falcon. I will be having a bash at an inlet manifold for a ford cleveland v8 in the coming months. Loving this channel, cheers!
I'm doing this on my triumph gt6 as manifolds just aren't available that'll clear the bonnet. Hoping that the temperature is OK as the engine isn't a crossflow and exhaust manifold bolts on right beneath the inlet. Exh & Inl Flanges actually touch each other.
Why not upgrade to a direct drive extruder? You can print a bracket for it and just move the factory extruder onto it, you just need to extend the wires. I did it on my cr-10 and it improved print quality, even with pla/petg, and made printing other materials such as tpu way easier.
fuel pump holder issue -> was not designed for 3d printing, always be mindful of layers so printable on it's side is best. The longest possible continuous extrusions of plastic.
Great video! About to start diving into printing ASA parts for my C5 Corvette! I've been printing automotive parts with PETG, but I got really frustrated with it's poor printability, especially for larger parts. Excited to give ASA a shot!
I've got a 3d printed part under the hood. I designed a manually controlled and lockable Idle Air Control Valve for a import tuner car of mine and printed it out of PETG. It's held up great for a while now. The reason for making a manually controlled and lockable IAC was because this car doesn't have aftermarket camshafts available and I wanted it to have a slightly erratic idle like a camshaft could give it, and I noticed when the IAC was in a particular position it would have that erratic idle sound, so I made an IAC that I could be manually set to that exact position and then locked down so it can't move. It worked exactly as I'd hoped and now the car has that erratic idle sound like it's cammed!
So, looking at this I have to ask, how Wild would it be to print a fuel rail? The heat seems to be a non issue, as does the fuel resistance, how about pressure? Don't get me wrong, I fully understand how bad it would be if it did fail, but none the less it has me curious
How do you scale or setup the part for similar size to life size car in 3d before you print it ? Hope you will make some tutorial for other your videos.
Awesome content as always man, love the can-do and engineering process attitude. My 3d printer has been so damn enabling for enclosures of custom PCBs, wiring, etc. on my car project. You've inspired me to start after using CF filament to make my own ITB setup. I think with some cut aluminum "sandwich" plates like you did for the blockoff it could be a real winner!
Yeah, I think sandwich plates are a winner, it’s not so bad on the Vauxhall engine as it has lots of fasteners, but I have another engine on the garage floor with only 5 for the whole manifold, what I did here wouldn’t work for that!
I am a huge fan (like a sickening amount) of the Mini. Dream car since I was a kid. So this is so much happiness in one channel for me. I enjoy 3D printing and this has been a huge eye opener for me. I am building a Subaru Sambar at the moment and as with all Kei trucks, parts are hard to get in the US let alone the cheap little brackets and such. I'm still learning blender. I'm an audiovisual engineer by trade and work in CAD all day. Blender is far different and I'm struggling. I'm thankful for this channel and your willingness to share.
Glad you enjoyed it Christian! This is my first Mini and I am traditionally a BMW guy but I love, nothing quite like it! I use Fusion360 not Blender, it’ll probably work better with you existing CAD experience 👍
Just found your channel! Great content so far! Looking forward to taking a look at your other videos. Thanks for confirming that it is a vauxhall engine in that mini, I recognised the rocker box cover from my old Nova, but couldn't fathom what it was doing in a mini! Now off to find out how air is metered using ITBs as there's no MAP sensor, and probably not going to be 4 MAFs.
The engine is actually from a more modern Astra (Z16se engine code) but I knew I needed the Nova era OHC rocker cover! Takes me right back to being 17 again! Good luck on the ITB hunting, I’ll give you a clue… the answer is in one of my videos 😉👍)
Thanks a lot! Have been printing a lot of airfilter housing inserts, designed soem mdos to house diffrent filter types and lids on OEM housings, but never got them to last more than a few months. Will defenitly be trying ASA instead of PETG!
I made a similar bracket to your fuel pump bracket but used a CF tow on the outside. Message me if you want a link to the photos. I don't want anything in return.
I would not trust it. Not just because it melts but how it melts, the Tg (glass transistion temp - the start of melting)is higher than PLA but PETG goes very soft very quickly after that. PLA may warp but PETG is a just a puddle. ABS or ASA at least for me…
velocity stacks has a design flaw in terms of maximum airflow, i can design you new ones if you send me the flange DXF and overall dimensions i have to stay in. Easy peasy really, just some geometry changes. Easy few % more HP. I just have to remember all the research data i went through years and years ago before designing again, i guess it comes back to me in a ~30minutes. I need to design some other velocity stacks too soon so this would add only like 60minutes of work for me to design you more optimized ones. (Rechecking the exact expansion ratios to maximize airflow!)
oh and that style air filters are extremely restrictive, you are most likely loosing a few % there. Considering this is a race car i would run it without any filters despite being pointed upwards, likelyhood of any debris causing engine damage is very low.
BTW, I know this video is a year old now, but if you still haven't upgrade your Ender 3 to a direct drive setup yet, DO IT! You won't regret it, it's SO much better than a Bowden Tube setup, and it's cheap and easy to do.
I need an update video on my printer… I am running DD with a clone BmG and a pancake, into a V6 hotend! It is good…. I did it months ago tho print TPU… that’s still not been opened!
I use petg from amazon. £14ish per kg, low shrinkage prints exactly the same as your ASA, good UV resistance and its recyclable in the bin. its the same plastic as milk bottles
I love this! I have 3d printed fiberglass molds for parts that turned out great but have been super hesitant on fuel and heat resistance... sounds like I'm buying some carbon nylon filament.
Very inspirational! I am planning on doing a custom sized MAF barrel using PP-GF. I was originally going for CF Nylon but found out glass fiber added polypropylene would suit perfectly fo the purpose, it has sufficient ambient temperature limit (180C, far more than enough), it stores easily (hydrophobic), has good impact strength and phenomenal layer adhesion. This video cleared out some apprehension I had about making intake parts with 3d printing (I already did a flex fuel sensor but it doesn't involve bits easily ingested by the engine...)
@@MakingforMotorsport The fibers help a lot with it. Just like with Nylon, the plain variant likes to warp a whole lot more. Gf filled instead of Cf filled is a good allround choice, worth it just for the printing properties alone with certain materials. If the maximum rigidity of carbon fibers isn't needed - save a few bucks and just go Gf.
What materials would you recommend for my velocity stacks and my airbox? (Preferably something cheap and not abs since it warps on big parts like a nightmare)
Another great video. I've done an ABS intake "Dave Mod" for the Cooper S that has worked fine for 6 Cali summer months of torture and been working up to nylonX for the zetec throttle body trumpets and manifold. My intake trumpet and manifold are coming along nicely. My printer is cheap but with very similar upgrades to yours. (Tronxy5SA) but a couple of mods really matter: Insulated bed with glass wool, Glass bed plate with glue stick, fabric creality enclosure, 90 degree brackets on every corner to make it ~10X more rigid, z axis sync belt, Dry teflon powder z-axis lubrication, metal extruder, cheap ebay volcano-like all metal hot end, capricorn tube, upgraded harder nozzle, heatsinks on all the extruder motor and axis stepper motors for staying cool while doing long prints in the enclosure. An insulated sterilite box with re-usable dessicant bags for keeping the filament dehydrated. The Result is large print volume and reasonable prints even in ABS for a budget friendly price. Keep it up and we'll either be seeing some lost PLA home forged parts soon.
Wow! Upgrade dreams 😍. The dual z-axis with a sync belt seems to be a killer mod. You mention a volcano like hot end, I was gonna go for that but the sheer quantity of melt zone and potential for stringing scared me so I thought, let’s just print slower 🤔😂
I never quite understand why you would invest so much in an inherently compromised design when there are much nicer diy printers like the voron family e.g.
I always wondered if it's possible to 3D print like low density grid/web parts and epoxy them together to make a proper hood, bumper or something similar, make a total conversion of some cheap car to make it look like a bootleg lamborghini or something.
Why don't you insert a metal spacer just short enough to allow enough force from the nut but preventing over-stressing / compressing the flange of the manifold?
Exactly what I'm doing now with my ASA parts that bolt to cases of a Ducati.I wish I could attach a picture of them here.! I found it to be the best way as people want to torque the bolts to the listed 8ft/lb.
I 3D print a whole bunch of parts for JZA80 Supras. All interior parts though, but coming up with some non-stressed parts for under the bonnet now. Usually use carbon-fibre infused PET filament which can be a pain to print, but when you nail it, it's tough as hell.
I would like to use a 3d printer to model parts and use them for prototyping after that print a part thats 5% bigger. Put it in sand for casting. And cast it in alluminum
Oh man, I had ideas of cutting out triangular sections and printing matching dimple dies and bending over edges and going to town… But then the kids had to go swimming, cars needed washing, pictures hanging etc etc… so I thought “f@&k it!”
I read another tinkerer mention experiencing shrinkage of the carbon nylon parts over time due to moisture getting trapped within the part and switching to sls printing for this reason. Can anyone comment on this?
3D printed my own reversing camera and rear num plate light and twist lock for indicator bulbs on my morette headlights for my Escort. Just using abs. I tried ASA but didn't have much luck
I've not used ASA before. Looks like I should give it a try. I just made a new under hood fuse box cover for my Barchetta using PETG because of concerns about the temperature in the engine compartment. So far it's holding up well. Regarding the use of carbon, I've always been skeptical given that it gets it's strength from the long strands and tends to be chopped into tiny bits when in a filament. Right now I'm experimenting with using a 3d scanner for modeling. So far the results have been a bit dicey.
Man, I love this video. The information is absolutely amazing, I’ve subscribed and just going to look at all your other videos. Thank you for inspiring us!
If anything has been under the hood for 2 years, would love an update. This is in consideration with making products with practical lifespans in daily-driven stuff, 5 years would be ideal as a bare minimum.
Be careful with nylon nuts. Nylon is tough but will breakdown much faster then exported to heat cycles and being outside. Top Lock nuts are less maintenance and have much higher temp resistance because it does not rely on Nylon.
Your info about printing ASA was really helpful. I'd read that ASA was a great choice for parts that would be subject to UV, but really hadn't found much yet about actual printing experiences.
I've got a few parts in my E46 That are printed out of Carbon Fiber Nylon, a throttle cable bracket, an air box that retains the stock runner length, sadly a lot of it is going to be gone once I swap the engine
We switched from FF ApolloX to Filamentive ASA - mainly because Filamentive are UK based and deliver next day. The printing profile is identical and we've had no issues with warping or strength / impact charateristics. We also found FF filaments to be extremely dusty, needing filament filters before the extruder, FF never responded to our concerns and Filamentive seems to be much cleaner.
Not if the print goes well, obviously it’s important for the manifold and whilst I’ve not done a specific test for vacuum I get the MAP figures I’d expect for ITBs and it runs well so 🤷♂️
3d printed car parts? Welp I have at least one in each of my family cars. I have printes spring insulator out of 40dTPU (yes I know it's not safe but originals were desintegrated so whatever - right now it's holding for 2nd year), badges, plastic headlightlight holder/height regulator out of petg (now it's making it into 3rd year), nylon manual transmission shifter bushing, new dome light with lens. I still didnt finish my first project that is corner turnsignal, but maybe I will do this before christmas ;).
@@MakingforMotorsport Also one thing to note - PETG doesn't work on aplications inside the car, it deforms from heat pretty badly. On the other hand you can make pretty nice wheel center caps (like if you don't care for 3d effect or you like matte effect after sanding). Sidenote if you wonder why would anyone want center caps: you can apply BMW specific wheels onto GM vehicle (like C5 Corvette or Pontiac Solstice) but half shaft will stick out, so either custom caps of metal grinding.
I appreciate this video is older now, but pretty much bought my first 3D printer on the back of it. Sovol SV06 plus. Already been very successful with some basic bits I needed for my car. Thank you for taking the time to make great videos, your channel is very under rated.
The ender 3 series is still one of the best. With so much aftermarket support these machines have extremely high performance potential at a relatively low initial cost.
Make an sheet metal frame that goes over all bolts on the manifold to create an even clamping pressure all around. And use springs under the bolt heads.
I'm wondering if the carbon fibre nylon filament will be suitable to print a adapter to hold a brushless pump in my intank swirl pot and a new top hat for the tank as well 🤔
Looking up ASA, it sounds like you should probably be filtering and venting the off-gas. Might be worth mentioning this in the future. Nice video though, subbed.
Yeah, it’s still got the styrene from ABS so it’s not the good stuff… I have activated charcoal and fans ready to install… just never got round to it 🤷♂️
So far I have made a coolant overflow bottle holder out of PETG I need to make it a little thicker as it's cracked on an area I made it a little thinner and 15% infill. I've also made some wiring covers from TPU and replacement bulkhead connectors for my loom that aren't available anymore. TPU has worked much better than I expected. Keep up the good work
Not really, they lock the whole arrangement up solid, so if there is no relative movement between the ITBs and engine then the manifold is not bending and therefore it’s not under any dynamic stress. It’s fine with injection but a lot of carbs have isolation elements in the mounting so that might be different….
Thank you for the nice word, we're glad that you enjoy using our product. It is good to see actual use cases of our products!
No problem, it’s a great filament 👍
If you want anything else testing just let me know! The Luvoc 3F PAHF CF looks lovely! 😍😂 🙏
Is there a filter in the velocity stacks? I've always wondered if they might crack and get sucked in but seems to be holding up nicely! Really neat.
Hi Angus, thanks stopping by! There aren’t any secondary filters, something I’d not thought about as the stacks are quite sturdy and never show any signs of degradation etc.
I think it’d take a “mechanical action” (e.g. a crash 😬) for these to smash to the point of being ingested, in which case, I have bigger problems! 😂
I 3d printed a 90 degree elbow that directs air from my cold air intake towards my pod filter, printed in PTEG and been in a year so far, survived a couple of track days with no signs of heat damage
Nice! I’ve never got on well with PETG, maybe time for another go!
@@MakingforMotorsport it has some nice spring to it. but can be a pain.
thank you for saying this
Minding my own business and looking for something to play mindlessly in the background, up you pop and now I've got to stop working for 17 minutes, thanks! In the background my ender is humming away printing the first non WAD (Wood Aided Design) alternator relocation bracket for the 2.0 Duratec going into my hillclimb Micra....I've said it before, it's all your fault!
😂… it’s always a nightmare watching other people on RUclips and not getting on with your own projects! You have my permission to turn off for a week and get the Micra done 👍
(B.t.w. Next video in a week…😂)
@@MakingforMotorsport Careful, I'm used to BOM and TOT video schedules, more than 1 a month is absolutely heresy.
@@benyarlett7878 aww man, I keep checking in both of them to see if I missed a vid… 😫
Duratec in a Micra? Sounds relevant given I have a Micra sitting in the driveway. What model Micra?
@@TheIamgibbo it's a k11 micra, 2001. There's raw pics on the k11 owners group on Fb.
Something I’m going to give a go is 3D printed moulds and then make some carbon fibre parts with carbon fibre cloth and the resin
Easy Composites has some tutorials on their RUclips channel if you haven't seen them.
@@Thee_Snow_Wolf yeah thats where I got the idea
I've done it at school a few times and tbh it's alot of fun and very easy. The only issue I had was to get the proper dimensions of the mold with the 3d printer (trial and error)
That, or a 3D printed bone on which a carbon fiber skin can be wrapped around.
@@Iamwolf134 yeah essentially
You were an inspiration for my project, I did the same thing as you. I made an adapter manifold to use 1000rr throttle bodies on my honda civic, made it with carbon fiber filled nylon and have had great results so far. Testing different stacks had been my favorite part so far and I'm looking forward to finding out how it holds up in the summer heat next season
Nice work! Sounds like we’re on the same track… great to hear it’s working well for you!
Hi blaze, how is your part holding?
@Alex Grześkowiak i had no issues. but unfortunately the motor i had used it on spun a rod bearing and bent some valves, because of that i cant provide long term data, however i have made a manifold for a different car which will be tested once we convert it to standalone ecu. If you have a honda with a b16 head or b18 type r head im more than willing to share the files with you :)
I absolutly love this, so far I've only 3d printed brackets for sensors and hoses and etc. Im going to give that ASA filament a shot, because Ive been using abs.
Give it a go, you’ll enjoy it! Thanks for watching!
Abs isn’t easy to print with for automotive I’ve found. I’ve got 3dxtech i think and their ASA stuff and it’s super strong so far in my prints for my car I don’t need intake strong, but strong enough to hold up the MAF and hold the ECU
Amazing video! I'm a recent mechanical engineering graduate, but fairly new to the world of 3D printing and this video has been incredible at showing me the amazing possibilities out there and a feel for how to do things! Thank you! :D
Mech Eng!!! The true faith!!! May your future be free of Matrix calculations… 😂
I had the same awakening a couple of years ago and basically was the jumping off point for the channel.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great content, thanks for making the video! I've had my turbo'd first gen rx7 running a 3D printed "injector manifold" for close to a year now with nary an issue. It was definitely a huge step up from the prior blow-thru carb setup I had.
One suggestion I would really emphasize is the use of proper compression limiters for any through-bolts. Regardless of whether the material is solid beneath it or not, the material will creep and eventually lead to a loose joint - nylons are especially prone to this. It's not the bolt that's coming loose, rather it's the material underneath it slowly moving and relieving the compression force. Heat-set compression limiters are a great option for this as well as the split collar style. Alternatively you can also cut some pipe that's the right size down to what you need.
As far as materials go, I printed the injector manifold from NylonX and it's been doing great, although I'd be a little hesitant to print a full manifold from it. I've also got a lot of polycarbonate parts under the hood such as coil brackets and various other bits and bobs. ASA for engine top components makes me a little iffy, but as long as it's not touching the engine I suppose it's fine. With operating temps in the 80-90C range (or sometimes higher) that's getting a little close for comfort in my opinion. Fiber filled ASA, glass or otherwise, would probably be a great option however.
Recently I've acquired a few other materials for an upcoming full manifold that I've been working on (same vehicle). eSUN ePAHT-CF and Essentium PPS-CF are the two materials I'm testing, although I have reservations about each. The PA doesn't have as good temperature resistance and is flammable, however the PPS is extremely rigid and not particularly tough with comparatively worse layer adhesion. I'd love to try some 3DXtech PPA-CF but unfortunately I can't hit the 90C recommended chamber temps (it has temperature resistance on par with PPS-CF; 220C continuous). The main concern about temps is that it's a turbo rotary engine, so the intake is mere inches from the turbo and exhaust. On an NA setup I'd be confident that even the ePAHT-CF would do fine.
Anywho, thanks again for the video. Keep up the great content!
Thanks for putting this video together, so much useful information. I've been thinking about making a CF Nylon intake for ages, but was worried about it's resistance to fuel, definitely cleared that one up! 🏁
It’s hardly a scientific test but proves the point 😂👍
This video inspired me to start using 3D prints on my Rover SD1 project. It's like you say - once you've got the equipment, the know-how, and the confidence, every problem on earth starts to look like it's best solved with a 3D print. Especially stuff like interior trim, clips, and switch holders that are only available used and all very brittle by now.
I have about 80 printed parts on my vw Brasilia, mostly remixed trim pieces, some of them, like my led tail lights are on my channel, but i'm waiting until my speeduino conversion is done to make a video showing all of them. Hopefully on the next pair of months! For the manifold nuts, you can try to use fiberglass washers under them, rc cars from tamiya have those on their motors to stop heat from melting their plastic gearboxes.
80 printed parts?! Nice! And I will check out those washers!
Pack your parts in cornstarch and anneal them slowly heat and slowly cool in a oven. Also you might want to try some carbon fiber polycarbonate. I find it better than the sain smart for layer adhesion.
I have some CF-PC prusament ready to go!! 👍
I made an engine swap on my motorbike and use abs printed engine mounting plates for fit test before make some out of steel or aluminum. If you don't have drawings and measurements are hard to get because of space or in my case unknown final position, printing indicator plates and measure against them helps to get a perfect fit. I also printed some small brakeds, jigs and fixtures. Any experience with abs velocity stacks? I really enjoyed the 3 episodes of bringing the itb's in your mini. You are doing a great job!
Found that if I spiral wrap some sandpaper around a die grinder shaft or dremel tool, I can smooth the inside of the velocity stacks nicely. It worked well with taulman 910 but I have never used the CF nylon.
I've had great experiences with eSun ABS, ASA and nylon.
Thanks buddy, I might try eSun next time through...
Hi David, since this video, have changed any of your print materials?
yikes im 2 years late... either way, did you not use an enclosure when printing with ASA? I thought it was also toxic just like ABS. Also, I've been using polymakers polylite-PC (polycarbonate) in the engine bay and have had success with it. Granted it hasnt been in direct contact with the engine, but I do have it close to the turbo manifold and it has held up so far.
I had an E3dv6, and others. It was good, but not a huge improvement for me (at least). I then got the Hemera and it was a big leap ahead.
If you’re ever in the position where you’re consider that, it was worth it (in my opinion).
I like your test. 6 months in fuel is tough. These are good videos, I came for the Speeduino but I like all the super effective low cost tips.
Be sure to watch Makers muse latrst vid. Buts its the comments where the state of the global 3d print and cnc industry. All websites remain down for license transfers so no 3d print license ssles. 12 months infsct and counting. Very serious grim lossed for entire global comunity.
Hi MfM.
Just happened upon your channel, I've been dyno testing different sized ITBs on my 2276cc vw beetle. From 36mm up to 48mm... but now I'm playing with trumpets and only have 2 sizes in aluminium. So I'm going to print some.
But I'm a complete noob wrt 3d printing.
Just found your channel, some awesome stuff!! Subbed! I'm getting into 3D printing because I'm doing some wacky stuff with a Jeep 258.
Do you happen to have a vid on how you figured out your Velocity Stack height/tuning?
3dxtech CFR ASA is really good. I have several printed parts on my 99 4runner.
Avoid NylonX, it's incredibly overpriced and can't do what other CF Nylons can. Seems like they're using CF powder or whatnot, but it has quite different properties. And not in a favorable way.
Bit late to the party but as they say better late than never. Great content and clearly presented for those of use who aren't engineers. I've designed ITB's for SR20 low port ( sorry not mini ) and have a water jacket between 1 and 2 cylinders. Been trying to find a 3D process and material that will withstand the heat and continual contact with water. I'm interested that yours in nylon CF are doing the job, with a little assistance from the steel plate. Was this a problem for you?
I'm also designing a large volume airbox ( for quads ) and thought nylon CF would be the go but from your experience it looks like ASA might be a cheaper alternative as long as it can handle a filter pod hanging of the end of it? I might have to rethink the print direction? Problem is it's 570mm long and that's a big bed. Would prefer not to break it up into smaller pieces.
Blue Box Goblin sell some great ASA from a Polish company. They also do an excellent PA12CF
What a great solution for classic cars and their obsolete parts.
Are you able to make a steering rack boot. It's obsolete for my 1973 Audi 100 coupe.
I use Priline Carbon fiber polycarbonate for a lot of my prints under the hood. I may try this carbon fiber nylon sometime.
My Priline filament works great as long as it is not in the valley between the two heads of my Toyota 5MGE engine. I tried printing spark plug wire guides with 100% infill and the one in the valley ended up warping badly. It does get VERY hot there.
i got a 3d printed (ASA) adapter to remove the AFM on my 1.6 miata. With the coid air intake i'm running the adapter sits right between the engine and the radiator and it still fine after one year.
I didn't print it but i did design it and got it printed with one of the web services
That will do the job nicely! 3D printing is the future!
Mate I was worried printing a connector with ABS for a small hose that goes near the engine, but after seeing this video and how close to the engine and heat you've used these parts, I think I'll be fine :D Thanks a lot
I have been using PLA to make prototype brake brackets. I find that making prototypes is quicker, easier and cheaper than machining aluminium multiple times.
I have fitted 4 pot calipers to the rear of an abarth 500, 8 pot calipers to the front of a ford falcon and toyota camry, 6 pot calipers to the front of a ford falcon.
I will be having a bash at an inlet manifold for a ford cleveland v8 in the coming months.
Loving this channel, cheers!
Nice! Sounds like you’ve been busy! 👍
I'm doing this on my triumph gt6 as manifolds just aren't available that'll clear the bonnet. Hoping that the temperature is OK as the engine isn't a crossflow and exhaust manifold bolts on right beneath the inlet. Exh & Inl Flanges actually touch each other.
Why not upgrade to a direct drive extruder? You can print a bracket for it and just move the factory extruder onto it, you just need to extend the wires. I did it on my cr-10 and it improved print quality, even with pla/petg, and made printing other materials such as tpu way easier.
fuel pump holder issue -> was not designed for 3d printing, always be mindful of layers so printable on it's side is best. The longest possible continuous extrusions of plastic.
Great video! About to start diving into printing ASA parts for my C5 Corvette! I've been printing automotive parts with PETG, but I got really frustrated with it's poor printability, especially for larger parts. Excited to give ASA a shot!
Are you still using the same filament? I’m looking at designing some parts for my hotrod for under the bonnet
I love what you're doing. Keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
I've got a 3d printed part under the hood. I designed a manually controlled and lockable Idle Air Control Valve for a import tuner car of mine and printed it out of PETG. It's held up great for a while now. The reason for making a manually controlled and lockable IAC was because this car doesn't have aftermarket camshafts available and I wanted it to have a slightly erratic idle like a camshaft could give it, and I noticed when the IAC was in a particular position it would have that erratic idle sound, so I made an IAC that I could be manually set to that exact position and then locked down so it can't move. It worked exactly as I'd hoped and now the car has that erratic idle sound like it's cammed!
That's creative!
Nylon X ! That’s all I use! Super Strong
So, looking at this I have to ask, how Wild would it be to print a fuel rail? The heat seems to be a non issue, as does the fuel resistance, how about pressure?
Don't get me wrong, I fully understand how bad it would be if it did fail, but none the less it has me curious
Just found this video. 3d print dimple dies and drill the plates from your rocker cover to the throttle bodies and then dimple die those plates.
2:15 Thats a typical starter fail, not recognizing the print orientation due to the upcoming force.
How do you scale or setup the part for similar size to life size car in 3d before you print it ? Hope you will make some tutorial for other your videos.
Awesome content as always man, love the can-do and engineering process attitude. My 3d printer has been so damn enabling for enclosures of custom PCBs, wiring, etc. on my car project. You've inspired me to start after using CF filament to make my own ITB setup. I think with some cut aluminum "sandwich" plates like you did for the blockoff it could be a real winner!
Yeah, I think sandwich plates are a winner, it’s not so bad on the Vauxhall engine as it has lots of fasteners, but I have another engine on the garage floor with only 5 for the whole manifold, what I did here wouldn’t work for that!
Thanks for this good video. Helps a ton
I am a huge fan (like a sickening amount) of the Mini. Dream car since I was a kid. So this is so much happiness in one channel for me. I enjoy 3D printing and this has been a huge eye opener for me. I am building a Subaru Sambar at the moment and as with all Kei trucks, parts are hard to get in the US let alone the cheap little brackets and such. I'm still learning blender. I'm an audiovisual engineer by trade and work in CAD all day. Blender is far different and I'm struggling. I'm thankful for this channel and your willingness to share.
Glad you enjoyed it Christian! This is my first Mini and I am traditionally a BMW guy but I love, nothing quite like it! I use Fusion360 not Blender, it’ll probably work better with you existing CAD experience 👍
3dxtech makes some really nice Asa they also have some color selection
aqua net extra super hold works better then glue stick and goes on evenly and easer to clean off the plate
Always great when I see a notification that you’ve posted! All the best from Canada!
Cheers bud, got loads lined up and trying to hit it hard for the rest of the year… we’ll see how far we get!
Nice content,
Where can we find these ready 3D stl files?
Just found your channel! Great content so far! Looking forward to taking a look at your other videos. Thanks for confirming that it is a vauxhall engine in that mini, I recognised the rocker box cover from my old Nova, but couldn't fathom what it was doing in a mini! Now off to find out how air is metered using ITBs as there's no MAP sensor, and probably not going to be 4 MAFs.
The engine is actually from a more modern Astra (Z16se engine code) but I knew I needed the Nova era OHC rocker cover! Takes me right back to being 17 again!
Good luck on the ITB hunting, I’ll give you a clue… the answer is in one of my videos 😉👍)
done the cold side now print inconel on the hot side... wont be so cheap.
Thanks a lot! Have been printing a lot of airfilter housing inserts, designed soem mdos to house diffrent filter types and lids on OEM housings, but never got them to last more than a few months. Will defenitly be trying ASA instead of PETG!
ASA is wonderful stuff, I can guarantee once you run it you’ll not look back!
I made a similar bracket to your fuel pump bracket but used a CF tow on the outside. Message me if you want a link to the photos. I don't want anything in return.
Nice! CF is just straight wicked. (About to start some here)
Do you think PETG would be able to withhold engine bay temps for an intake box?
I would not trust it. Not just because it melts but how it melts, the Tg (glass transistion temp - the start of melting)is higher than PLA but PETG goes very soft very quickly after that. PLA may warp but PETG is a just a puddle.
ABS or ASA at least for me…
velocity stacks has a design flaw in terms of maximum airflow, i can design you new ones if you send me the flange DXF and overall dimensions i have to stay in. Easy peasy really, just some geometry changes. Easy few % more HP.
I just have to remember all the research data i went through years and years ago before designing again, i guess it comes back to me in a ~30minutes. I need to design some other velocity stacks too soon so this would add only like 60minutes of work for me to design you more optimized ones. (Rechecking the exact expansion ratios to maximize airflow!)
oh and that style air filters are extremely restrictive, you are most likely loosing a few % there. Considering this is a race car i would run it without any filters despite being pointed upwards, likelyhood of any debris causing engine damage is very low.
which cfd program did you use?
BTW, I know this video is a year old now, but if you still haven't upgrade your Ender 3 to a direct drive setup yet, DO IT! You won't regret it, it's SO much better than a Bowden Tube setup, and it's cheap and easy to do.
I need an update video on my printer… I am running DD with a clone BmG and a pancake, into a V6 hotend! It is good….
I did it months ago tho print TPU… that’s still not been opened!
I use petg from amazon. £14ish per kg, low shrinkage prints exactly the same as your ASA, good UV resistance and its recyclable in the bin. its the same plastic as milk bottles
Is it novamaker brand?
I love this! I have 3d printed fiberglass molds for parts that turned out great but have been super hesitant on fuel and heat resistance... sounds like I'm buying some carbon nylon filament.
Go for it mate, obviously be sensible and keep an eye on the part but it’s definitely do-able!
I like this idea. How did you get along with the engine coolant channels?
Very inspirational! I am planning on doing a custom sized MAF barrel using PP-GF. I was originally going for CF Nylon but found out glass fiber added polypropylene would suit perfectly fo the purpose, it has sufficient ambient temperature limit (180C, far more than enough), it stores easily (hydrophobic), has good impact strength and phenomenal layer adhesion. This video cleared out some apprehension I had about making intake parts with 3d printing (I already did a flex fuel sensor but it doesn't involve bits easily ingested by the engine...)
PP? I heard it was a pig to print with big warping?
@@MakingforMotorsport
The fibers help a lot with it.
Just like with Nylon, the plain variant likes to warp a whole lot more.
Gf filled instead of Cf filled is a good allround choice, worth it just for the printing properties alone with certain materials. If the maximum rigidity of carbon fibers isn't needed - save a few bucks and just go Gf.
What materials would you recommend for my velocity stacks and my airbox? (Preferably something cheap and not abs since it warps on big parts like a nightmare)
ASA is a good alternative, prints well has properties close to ABS or better and warps far less 👍
Another great video. I've done an ABS intake "Dave Mod" for the Cooper S that has worked fine for 6 Cali summer months of torture and been working up to nylonX for the zetec throttle body trumpets and manifold. My intake trumpet and manifold are coming along nicely. My printer is cheap but with very similar upgrades to yours. (Tronxy5SA) but a couple of mods really matter: Insulated bed with glass wool, Glass bed plate with glue stick, fabric creality enclosure, 90 degree brackets on every corner to make it ~10X more rigid, z axis sync belt, Dry teflon powder z-axis lubrication, metal extruder, cheap ebay volcano-like all metal hot end, capricorn tube, upgraded harder nozzle, heatsinks on all the extruder motor and axis stepper motors for staying cool while doing long prints in the enclosure. An insulated sterilite box with re-usable dessicant bags for keeping the filament dehydrated. The Result is large print volume and reasonable prints even in ABS for a budget friendly price. Keep it up and we'll either be seeing some lost PLA home forged parts soon.
Wow! Upgrade dreams 😍. The dual z-axis with a sync belt seems to be a killer mod. You mention a volcano like hot end, I was gonna go for that but the sheer quantity of melt zone and potential for stringing scared me so I thought, let’s just print slower 🤔😂
I never quite understand why you would invest so much in an inherently compromised design when there are much nicer diy printers like the voron family e.g.
I always wondered if it's possible to 3D print like low density grid/web parts and epoxy them together to make a proper hood, bumper or something similar, make a total conversion of some cheap car to make it look like a bootleg lamborghini or something.
People have done exactly that… I believe someone made an Aventador body kit…
Why don't you insert a metal spacer just short enough to allow enough force from the nut but preventing over-stressing / compressing the flange of the manifold?
Exactly what I'm doing now with my ASA parts that bolt to cases of a Ducati.I wish I could attach a picture of them here.! I found it to be the best way as people want to torque the bolts to the listed 8ft/lb.
An open 3D printer! No good! Fumes! And temperature control! You need a closed system! This Guy is a amateur when it comes to 3D Printers!
Get off your high horse mate, thousands and thousands of people print successfully without an enclosure. Maybe you just suck at printing.
Check out fillerment Friday on RUclips he uses support blockers to stop infill and make areas solid
Thanks, I will have a look. I’ve heard there is an option in Cura aswell but I’ve not printed these for about 8months… I’ll give it a go next time!
You supposed to describe on 3d the component under de hood but you're just explaining and giving advice and not being focus on your daily subject
I thought I did both? Guess not. Thanks for the feedback….
I 3D print a whole bunch of parts for JZA80 Supras. All interior parts though, but coming up with some non-stressed parts for under the bonnet now. Usually use carbon-fibre infused PET filament which can be a pain to print, but when you nail it, it's tough as hell.
I have used Winkle ASA and was very happy with it. I am now testing PCTG.. Printing mounts and accessories for my bikes
I would like to use a 3d printer to model parts and use them for prototyping after that print a part thats 5% bigger. Put it in sand for casting. And cast it in alluminum
Casting parts is definitely on the to do list 👍.
Awesome tips thank you
good stuff. the manifold braces are great but you forgot to add the dimples using your 3d printed dimple die..
Oh man, I had ideas of cutting out triangular sections and printing matching dimple dies and bending over edges and going to town…
But then the kids had to go swimming, cars needed washing, pictures hanging etc etc… so I thought “f@&k it!”
I read another tinkerer mention experiencing shrinkage of the carbon nylon parts over time due to moisture getting trapped within the part and switching to sls printing for this reason.
Can anyone comment on this?
Nylon does absorb water which can make it slightly less stiff but I am not sure on the dimensional change…
Not something I have noticed.
Great video, exactly what I was looking for.
3D printed my own reversing camera and rear num plate light and twist lock for indicator bulbs on my morette headlights for my Escort. Just using abs. I tried ASA but didn't have much luck
I've not used ASA before. Looks like I should give it a try. I just made a new under hood fuse box cover for my Barchetta using PETG because of concerns about the temperature in the engine compartment. So far it's holding up well.
Regarding the use of carbon, I've always been skeptical given that it gets it's strength from the long strands and tends to be chopped into tiny bits when in a filament.
Right now I'm experimenting with using a 3d scanner for modeling. So far the results have been a bit dicey.
i 3D printed my entire car ... RC car XD sadly not many are interested in that and i have to try find out all by myself :/
You’d be surprised! I reckon a lot of people would want to see it!
Very very helpful. I've been looking at nylon x for my harley intake. I'm hoping it withstands 220F on a hot day in traffic.😬
Man, I love this video. The information is absolutely amazing, I’ve subscribed and just going to look at all your other videos. Thank you for inspiring us!
If anything has been under the hood for 2 years, would love an update. This is in consideration with making products with practical lifespans in daily-driven stuff, 5 years would be ideal as a bare minimum.
Be careful with nylon nuts. Nylon is tough but will breakdown much faster then exported to heat cycles and being outside. Top Lock nuts are less maintenance and have much higher temp resistance because it does not rely on Nylon.
Your info about printing ASA was really helpful. I'd read that ASA was a great choice for parts that would be subject to UV, but really hadn't found much yet about actual printing experiences.
I've got a few parts in my E46 That are printed out of Carbon Fiber Nylon, a throttle cable bracket, an air box that retains the stock runner length, sadly a lot of it is going to be gone once I swap the engine
We switched from FF ApolloX to Filamentive ASA - mainly because Filamentive are UK based and deliver next day. The printing profile is identical and we've had no issues with warping or strength / impact charateristics. We also found FF filaments to be extremely dusty, needing filament filters before the extruder, FF never responded to our concerns and Filamentive seems to be much cleaner.
Great vid! I am printing an intake to run a honda j35 in my 73 911.
Nice!!! I should at this point shout… “a 70s 911 with a modern V6???, heresy!!!” But it sounds like fun!
Have you had any problems with porosity in your prints?
Not if the print goes well, obviously it’s important for the manifold and whilst I’ve not done a specific test for vacuum I get the MAP figures I’d expect for ITBs and it runs well so 🤷♂️
Thank you for sharing this video! It was very informative!
3d printed car parts? Welp I have at least one in each of my family cars. I have printes spring insulator out of 40dTPU (yes I know it's not safe but originals were desintegrated so whatever - right now it's holding for 2nd year), badges, plastic headlightlight holder/height regulator out of petg (now it's making it into 3rd year), nylon manual transmission shifter bushing, new dome light with lens. I still didnt finish my first project that is corner turnsignal, but maybe I will do this before christmas ;).
A piece purely in compression (like a spring isolator) along the printed z-axis should be fine! 👍. Sounds like you’ve done a lot of this! Nice work!
@@MakingforMotorsport Also one thing to note - PETG doesn't work on aplications inside the car, it deforms from heat pretty badly. On the other hand you can make pretty nice wheel center caps (like if you don't care for 3d effect or you like matte effect after sanding). Sidenote if you wonder why would anyone want center caps: you can apply BMW specific wheels onto GM vehicle (like C5 Corvette or Pontiac Solstice) but half shaft will stick out, so either custom caps of metal grinding.
I appreciate this video is older now, but pretty much bought my first 3D printer on the back of it. Sovol SV06 plus. Already been very successful with some basic bits I needed for my car. Thank you for taking the time to make great videos, your channel is very under rated.
Wen printing pla whit all metal hotand retraction is your enemy
You can say that about every material! 😂
The ender 3 series is still one of the best. With so much aftermarket support these machines have extremely high performance potential at a relatively low initial cost.
Make an sheet metal frame that goes over all bolts on the manifold to create an even clamping pressure all around. And use springs under the bolt heads.
I'm wondering if the carbon fibre nylon filament will be suitable to print a adapter to hold a brushless pump in my intank swirl pot and a new top hat for the tank as well 🤔
Looking up ASA, it sounds like you should probably be filtering and venting the off-gas. Might be worth mentioning this in the future. Nice video though, subbed.
Yeah, it’s still got the styrene from ABS so it’s not the good stuff…
I have activated charcoal and fans ready to install… just never got round to it 🤷♂️
I print all my stuff in an heated enclose with charcoal filters and room air purifiers NP!
Amazing video, so smart, congratulations!
So far I have made a coolant overflow bottle holder out of PETG I need to make it a little thicker as it's cracked on an area I made it a little thinner and 15% infill.
I've also made some wiring covers from TPU and replacement bulkhead connectors for my loom that aren't available anymore. TPU has worked much better than I expected.
Keep up the good work
Good to hear that the TPU worked well for bulkhead grommets... I have a spool for that exact job 👍
intresting video. I also printing parts for my supermoto track motorbike. I made some sliders and crash protection. Great channel you have.
Do you directly print the crash protection? How does it stand up?
@@MakingforMotorsport De came oud great, I just need to crash to see how they hold up. But I hope to be able to wait as long as possible.😅
Couldn’t the braces cause the effect double?
Not really, they lock the whole arrangement up solid, so if there is no relative movement between the ITBs and engine then the manifold is not bending and therefore it’s not under any dynamic stress.
It’s fine with injection but a lot of carbs have isolation elements in the mounting so that might be different….