Steel Resonator Guitar | Build 2 | Ep 1 - Improvements
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Let's add some of the details that were missing from build one and aim for higher quality along the way.
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Sounds great!
I like both backs, they're just different that's all. Nice job no matter what.
sounds fantastic loved the playing as well...
For a while there I thought I was back in the Delta.👍
Yeah buddy!!
I really hope Ron Covelle see this. You were wondering about appropriate machines and if Ron takes a look at your setup Im sure he will be very helpful indeed.
I might try and reach out to him and see if he offers any advice. @RonCovell
Covell has books. They're great.
Thank you very much for the bottleneck demo - sounds clear, loud and crisp. Can't wait to hear the new one... All the best.
Personally, I prefer the look of the number 2 back, but both work well, and I assume give the required amount of rigidity. Nice playing too, by the way.
Great work.....#2 is taking shape nicely!
Thanks!
I'm gonna say I like #2 back better but I think something in between the two backs would be perfect. Back one is of course more square and not as much offset. While back two has a pretty tall offset but is angled. So less offset but angled is what I'm tying to say.
And this is very difficult and you ARE amazing!
I'm thinking about that little torch set up for wood side bending. I haven't had a lot of success with the standard propane bottles working on an angle to heat the pipe. But I need to redesign my whole set up anyway.
Good work my friend and much, much quicker the second time.
Thanks Dane. I like back #2 better also. I like George French comment below, wider space between the bead roll and the solder line I think is the ticket. I wouldn't use this little torch for side bending, it's too small. I have great luck with the regular propane torch through the pipe method but it took a lot of practice for me. I turn the torch down all the way til it just about goes out and I turn it off from time to time. Having the 3 different levels on my pipe bender seems to work well, the top one doesn't get as hot. Also sliding a pipe over the pipe that the torch goes in helps control the heat as well, I use that large pipe I showed in this video when I do wood sides, it doesn't get as hot since it makes little contact with the really hot pipe. All that said I think everybody figures out what works for them, I sometimes get terrible results with what works for others.
I love the first back. I'm glad you get the process so refined 👏🏻
This is awesome. I want to build one:)
Bock on left from first glance!
I prefer the wider space between the bead and solder line.
I totally agree. My 4mm guess fell a little short. Thanks for the input.
sO...Lets me get this right, the first one, is amazing, and the second one...Piece of cake! Nerd! Rofl takes one to know one!😋🤪😜 But, all brass is going to be insanely beautiful. I totally love this series, you are going to have the best most comprehensive resonator build series. I wonder if Brass, would work differently and sound differently, for example, cymbals use different alloys and get different tones?? I'm might be going too far...Ok looking forward to the next video! Keep up the great work. FYI, I personally prefer the second back (#2)
Did I say piece of cake Lol! I hope not, it's NOT easy but man it's way easier. I'm looking forward to brass but I just found out my laser cut resource can't do brass so I'm looking for alternatives now. I've heard from a lot of people that brass ones are much more mellow. Guess we'll find out.
Great tone , muddy Waters ,Rollin&Tumblin ?
The cone well where the cone sits should be 1" below the top of the guitar.
That's exactly where I'm at now. Took me a minute to get to that dimension Lol! Thanks Mike.
On my wells I 'Z' the metal before bending it. I use a tool that cuts a little V notch on the 'tabs', wrap it around the form and then solder in a flat ring for the cone to sit on.
Great use of the bead roller on the top!
It's hard to tell what gauge your metal is, but it looks kinda heavy. I use 20 ga. and the originals were even thinner.
Maricopa!!! I know exactly how you do your wells because you revealed the mystery to me over on TDPRI. I did my first one just as you describe but I wanted to move away from soldering the flat ring in. I am using 20gauge. I'm thinking about going to 22 gauge on the sides and keeping 20 gauge for top and back. Currently the 20ga is producing a 9.2ish pound guitar and I would like to get that down to an 8.5 pound guitar. I feel like I'm just scratching the surface on testing all these things. I'm about to start testing with stainless steel and I've decided on 22ga for that since stainless is so much stiffer than mild steel. I'm struggling to find sources for the brass (actually bronze) that I want to use for my next one but I'm sure I'll figure that out soon enough. So glad you commented and if people are reading this, AZCobraman is the real deal, fantastic builder.
Thanks for the nice comment man, very much appreciated.
I think I like the way you did your well better, but I never broke down and bought any real metalworking tools lol.
Look forward to more of your vids!
First off, I think I like the back better on guitar number two but they're both nice.
For the soundwell--you might try using a ring roller to roll the round shape rather than using the blocks like you're doing. I roll banjo tension hoops, tubular tone rings and things like that on one, and it works great.
Nice. I was thinking about a ring roller. Do the banjo tension hoops need the rolled over edge like my sound well does? Getting it round isn't so bad but getting that flat edge seems to be my big issue. Ring rollers are cheap, I think it's worth a try. Thanks!
@@Ninety2guits Nope--tension hoops don't usually have the rolled over edge, so that would still be a separate operation. I've had custom rollers built in the past, and something like that might let you roll it/flange it all in one operation.
#1 sounds great after the changes you made! As for #2, I think I prefer the second back design.
Your slide playing was good, just need a bit of practice but was much better than you let on…I was just thinking…just an idea but to speed up the sanding etc maybe one of the guitars you build could have a painted Duco finish or a rich mustard yellow like the early National Triolians….probably my favourite finish….as far as the back it’s kinda a flip for me…they both look “right” so personal preference on your end is the deciding factor…
Thanks. Funny how 12 years of playing electric guitar every week in a church worship band has done nothing for my 12 bar blues slide playing , I can't even count to 4 correctly 🤣. I could easily paint the body, finishing is kinda my thing, it seems so easy to paint one that it sorta feels like cheating but will paint one for sure.
@@Ninety2guits You made me laugh with that. I play worship sometimes at my Church to, and it’s about as far from 12 bar blues as you can get ! I’m working on Amazing Grace in Open D…it sounds fantastic and is surprisingly easy to play ..give it a go…
How well does solder stick to stainless steel? Maybe I was not doing it correctly but I couldn’t get it to stick. I guess you’re going to let us know when the time comes. I really like your videos. Keep them coming.
I was wondering about that as well. Mule does it so I guess it's possible. Sounds like another testing session.
I wonder if you could use something like a fret bender for the sound well? Just roll a circle with no form
I think so, I'm looking at getting a ring roller for the sound well and bending the sides. The circle isn't so bad, it's rolling the lip on the bottom of the circle that's proving to be difficult. Thanks for following along.
Unpolished shape is best. Probably better to place the camera mic further away when recording the guitar.
Yes I like that shape better as well but it still needs some improvement. Good idea on further away, the mic is just a GoPro camera which I don't think is doing me any favors. Thanks for following along.
Ever thought to sell a partially finished kit? I mean... something that requires assembly, welding and finish but that could be build without expensive tools or lot of experience
I've been giving that a lot of thought and want to get to that point soon. Thanks.
Prefer the wider back bevel.
Same here. I like George French comment to have more offset between the solder line and the bead roll, that would look better.
On the sound well, could you mark the tabs, bend it into a circle, bead roll the lip, and then cut the tabs and use the bead roller to bend the tabs out?
That would probably work better than what I'm doing now. I thought about using a wood block with the correct size hole to set the ring into and bend the tabs over after I form the circle and bead roll the lip. I like your thinking and will probably do something like you describe on the next one. Thanks.
That could work too. If you could get it to roll without having to cut tabs though, it would save you some time and grinding discs ha. Then you'd just be soldering around that lip. By the way, that Muddy Waters "I Can't Be Satisfied" riff you rattled off is the reason I started playing slide guitar in the first place. Great song.
James B , rhe second back is hands down better.
Yep, and the third one is already better than the second but nobody will ever see the third and fourth one because they still aren't exactly what I want yet. Actually you can probably see the the 3rd one in the background from time to time :).