Motorkote - Before and After Vehicle Testing for Mileage and Power Show Gains!
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2019
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Even more gains on the Grand Prix in part 2:
• Motorkote Gains & Brea...
Check out the original Motorkote review on the ProjectFarm channel:
• Can MotorKote survive ...
This video aims to demonstrate whether or not Motorkote makes any difference regarding fuel economy and horsepower, when used in a real car. Various vehicle sub-systems will be treated with this friction modifying additive and tests will be carried out to determine if this product is worth the money and what benefits, if any, it has for the average car owner. Motorkote claims to be compatible with almost any vehicle fluid or metal part, that it does a better job reducing friction than any other product and that water will not remove it. Demonstration videos also show how even brake cleaner cannot remove it while it continues to protect surfaces from damage caused by friction. In this video, back-to-back tests will measure the differences in mileage and power before and after Motorkote application.
Music in video: Race Car by Rondo Brothers 
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Project Farm rocks....
Project farm brought me here lol
Did he give you a ride ?
@@ricktaylor3748 Yes, you jealous?
@@janix_17 Did you "put out"?
As all women are supposed to.
@@ricktaylor3748 No need, he was humble lol
Been using MotorKote since 1998. My 98 Tacoma has been running with Motorkote since new. 270,000 miles later, it still runs great. I use this stuff on anything and everything that requires oil lubricants.
Tacoma would run on anything
You can do that with just normal oil changes
my sister has a "TOYOTA CAMERY" with over 400 K miles on it with out any rebuilds, and NEVER USED MOTORKOTE!!!!!!!,( just oil changes)
Nice.., that truck probably has better compression than most with that mileage and better (less) engine wear overall than other vehicles with the same mileage.
@@cflip7452sure, but a good additive can make a difference in many ways
I have a 2006 KTM 525 EXC. The RFS Motor is extremely powerful but fickle. I watched Project Farms review of Motorkote, made sure it was ok to put in my 525 motor and applied. What a difference!!! The engine before would make all kinds of weird noises, too low in the rpm and the engine would knock, too high and other weird noises!? After the application the bike was much easier to start and the noises were gone! The bike was quieter and ran stronger. Almost feels like I did an engine rebuild by adding 3oz of Motorkote. Truly amazing product for my KTM!
I’m using MotorKote also after the Project Farm video. I’m not looking for any jump in fuel mileage just insurance against premature engine/tranny wear although gas mileage did jump a little.
Wait...can you use it in trans?
@@sleekcartim yes, made mine shifts better, smoother.!
Mines up 2mpg
I too watched project farm and was amazed by this product. I bought a small bottle to use in my Harley. I have 75,000k on my Harley at the moment and want to see what it will do before I do a complete rebuild.
Hey Michael, how’d it work on your Harley?
I watched it 5-6 times i still can;t believe it
The oil is definitely different. You can clearly see a difference between the old True Original Bersion vs the new version.
It’s a much lighter weight, lower viscosity oil than their original.
I May do a video showing the difference between the 2. Side I still have one bottle for years ago that is the original version. It is much, much thicker than the new supposedly original version.
I would really like to see Project Farm compare this new version of the Motorkote cs his original findings on the true original version.
I now have a call into Motorkote and waiting to hear back from them, but I assume they are going to say it’s the same as the original.
Whicj I can clearly prove not true. I don’t want to call any company dishonest, but unfortunately these days so many companies are taking shortcuts and cutting corners to make an extra buck.
Very Sad...
We’ll see what Motorkote has to say if they respond to my messages. But I’m confident they will say it’s the same formula, but they Clearly are Not!
That’s why we need to get Project Farm to test the new Much thinner Motorkote and see how it performs compared to the Rrue Original...
Fore Real!
Happy New Year...
So there is a “new” motorkote?
When did they change the formula?
Great video and a lot of effort put into it as well.
Thanks for mentioning Project Farm.
He puts a lot of time in his testing as well and has answered so many of my questions on different products.
I've been using this stuff for 8 yrs now. Love it. When I buy a car (new to me)I run it with no additives for a while and see how it feels and test mpg's. I bought 1 car and it was getting around 17.5 mpg's. Started using Motorkote and Marvel mystery oil. My mpg's are now between 18.8 to 20.7, depending on the time of the year. Well worth the $, and my vehicles have never been to a shop with engine problems. Just ball joints or something like that. They all have right at 200k miles or over. Like one has 200k, another 215k, another 294k and my truck has 398k. This combo of MMO and Motorkote is awesome. Do this on my lawn mover, weed waker(4 stroke), roto tiller and so on.
i used this in my long haul semi rooster cruiser, it saved me about 30 thousand dollars a year in fuel costs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can you please share your numbers?
Incredible ! That's huge savings
The engine on project farm was ran with motorkote and oil in the crankcase then drained all contents and filled with only water no oil or motorkote and it actually never failed only had to refill the water due to evaporation and after an hour with no problems he finally just turned it off. You can see by the look on his face that he was genuinely suprised
I started using this stuff after I saw th Project Farm video, too.
I think the accessory belt bearings are all sealed units if I'm not mistaken. That's why they don't have a lubricant maintenance schedule.
They are. Have to wonder though if lubricant applied to the journals from the outside would eventually wick into the bearing surfaces...
@@ChrisCamaro they wont, not even a little bit, they are sealed with a rubber seal.
a lot of effort on your part. Thank you for your effort and time.
Don't mention it. It feeds the scientist within me!
Intelligent. Empirical vs anecdotal. Good job.
I have a riding mower with 2100 hours on it.. still runs like new thanks I believe to motorkote
I had a 2.3 liter with overhead cam and the oil pump went,for a week 200 miles appx I had zero symptoms so I thought it was electrical as replacing the sensor didn’t work. The motorkote worked,but I didn’t trust it since it had 330k on it and it rapped really loud the last five miles home. I gave it to the kid next door and he put an op in and it lasted at least 3 more years. Maybe more as I moved.
Th8s product might be excellent for boats lower units. When a seal goes water gets in there and very quickly you destroy the gears. Since motorkote stays on the surface and you can't wash it away with water it sounds like this could save your lower unit from destruction. You also change the gear oil often so that aspect works out well also. Anyone tey this on their boats lower unit gear case???
I bought the quart size bottles twice and then two of the gallon size jugs when on sale for half off. I put motorkote in my car,truck, atvs and lawn tractors for the last two years and haven't had any issues but not sure if there really were improvements. I still have a gallon left and plan to use it up, not sure if I'll buy more.
Been using motorkote for several years. No problems in anything that I run it in... great product... 👍👍👍
Awesome! Which fluids do you add it to? What vehicles? It'd be interesting to know which cars see the greatest benefit or if any don't.
I have a 2018 Mazda CX-5, 2019 ram 1500 5.7, 2007 Honda Accord v6 and a 2009 Chevy avalanche. They all run smooth as can be... I run royal purple and motorkote and also run motorkote in my kubota diesel and also in all my 2 cycle power equipment. I service a whole lot of vehicles that we have...
@@rmiller6483 Wow, do you think that's enough vehicles? Lol.
@@rmiller6483 the Avalanche has AFM enabled correct?
It's ok in a VTEC engine?
1. your accessory bearings are sealed, so putting oil on the pullys the way you did, did not lubricate any thing the way you intended.
2. was the dyno on the same day because any variation in atmospheric conditions will change your dyno results?
3. wind conditions change through out the day so if you were pushing a little bit of wind on the first test and less wind on the second test that could be what you actually measured.
To do the proper mileage testing, you would have to drive the same road every day for week and get an average over a distance of over 60 miles then make your change and do the test again over the course of a week at the same distance and similar weather conditions to get a more accurate average.
A better way would be to do your mileage test on the dyno which eliminates all the changing weather conditions and wind conditions. Run the car on the dyno for 10 min at a specified load record your average, do the treatment on the dyno then run the same test at the same load for the same time and record your average.
The before and after tests were only a couple of hours apart so probably the best circumstances I could hope for given the budget and resources available
"Super really good job" - love it!
Spectacular analysis I have been able to produce similar results with my previous vehicle an 04 Tacoma and I know for a fact if u want to remove the effects of motorkote u can easily pour in some mmo into crankcase before changing oil and it will immediately go back to previous results prior to adding motorkote. What a world we live in.
So somebody finally found something that will defeat motorkote! Not sure what to do with the info unless it buggers up my engine but impressive to say the least :D
You have to think of as a temporary friction modifier that will eventually give way is certain places, spaces, and at different areas with different wear for instance less resistance against bearing surface with more resistance behind might cause an issue so if for instance it may work well in specific areas but not as much for others u can always put mmo in it and know it's back to factory preset conditions until the next time to motorkote it's just for that OCD type of guy.
What's mmo?
@@DMac-gh7cy marvel mystery oil
@@DMac-gh7cy marvel mystery oil
You can't lubricate your alternator or idler pulley! They're completely sealed. SMFH...
Wasted
Idlerpullies can be lubed by using a large gauge syringe just slip it in at the outer perifery of the seal.
Or pry the rubber seal off, put some MK on it and reinstall the seal. Otherwise the seal is just that - a seal to keep things out.
I remember back in the 90's in Vancouver, B.C. there was a company that produced an engine treatment called Bitron. One had to use two applications 40oz. each with a seperate oil change. On the second application I noticed an increase in power, fuel economy. For some reason it only performed well with regular motor oil, not synthetic.
Thanks I wonder if this falls off this performance
Excellent video sir!
Project farm is awesome. Got my wiper blades, bed liner, knife sharpener and much more through his suggestions
Is not only the mileage, that is the EFFECT, the import part is the reason. Why do you get more mileage? because the metal parts are working more soft, they have a extra layer of protection, making the engine work less hard, so this translates on durability.
I think we agree that wear and tear on the engine goes hand in hand with friction, thermal losses and therefore mileage. What's good for mileage will also extend the longevity of your mechanical parts.
@@ChrisCamaro exactly my point.
Did you shake it well like it says to before you dumped it in yr crankcase ? You should have specified that, unless you never knew about it ..... it does not look like you shook it because it's usually thicker looking than what it did when you dumped it in the crankcase ...also i use it in my transmission, that made a huge difference on power & mileage...
I probably should have shown on camera that I shook it, as you suggest, but yes I did shake it quite thoroughly. I had to measure to that's why it was put into another clear plastic container but it was shaken. Thanks for pointing that out.
In a semi tractor trailer you can actually feel the changes in performance, as a trucker this is what I look for, 1 gallon is about $100 for MOTORKOTOIL.
I won't have to change my oil for the next five years everything in my truck is Motorkote oil on my mechanical moving parts, when it comes to greasing the joints I mix it with motor coat
I save a lot of fuel on some of the most roughest terrain's and some of the heaviest load
But of course your fuel mileage when it comes to a truck depends on tire type mechanical adjustments for the load and the weather including the direction you are traveling 🧭
Awesome stuff. Do you get the MK into the CV joints too? There's a lot of gains to be had as those are high friction parts but I couldn't get past my boots without damaging them.
I agree with you in regards to Project Farms review of the ‘Original Motorkote’. But Motorkote has obviously changed there formula, because I have a bottle of the original and the new Motorkote which is supposed to be the original but after I give Motorkote a call and give them a chance to explain the clear difference between the older ‘Original’ and the new formula, I will post a video showing the clear difference between the 2. I’ve asked Project Farm to do a comparison between this new formula and compare it to the real original one he tested. I have a bottle of the old r real Original Motorkote and it is clearly different than this new much thinner formula. I’m willing to send Project Farm a new unopened bottle of Motorkote to see how it compares to the original test. If more will contact him to test the new formula. Unfortunately, they’re are so many companies now on the market to just cut corners and make a quick buck. I’m very hesitant in putting this new formula into my custom built high performance engine. As I mentioned I have one bottle left of the older real original Motorkote that I may do a video on and let the viewers decide if it’s the same as the original. clearly Not...
I truly ant Project farm to test this new formula, which is called ‘Original’ but clearly is not.
what did you observe that led you to believe it was different? Or did they say something to you about it?
Break-in period is about 800 miles for full effect.
That's very interesting. How were you able to determine that period?
@@ChrisCamaro From the radio program on AM radio, on Sunday's the head guy from Motorkote does an AM radio automotive hour, were listeners can call in with automotive problems and get advice and/or ask questions about Motorkote. That was a frequent question. Interestingly enough nearly every other popular high end anti-friction/anti-wear engine treatment state the same thing about their own products as well.
@@JA-rn5qv No kidding?! Well I guess now I've got a new experiment to test.
...and it looks like that wasn't just some pipe dream. I actually have enough data now to corroborate your prediction on break-in period. Look forward to that in a future video that will be airing very soon.
The alternator bearings are sealed as are the idler and belt tensioner pulley bearings, otherwise they would sling lubricant all over the place while the engine is running. How well does Motorkote lubricate the EGR valve, O2 sensors, and catalytic converter?
I assume you are unfamiliar with the concept of capillary action...
Mileage test could have been affected by the warmer temps, wind, and doing dyno pulls
Technically yes, but you can't achieve a perfectly controlled experiment and the difference in the plot is significant enough that it can't be attributed to environment alone. Also see my Grand Prix video where I did a slight variation of the mileage test for fun and got similar results.
Does anyone know how this compares to Dura Lube?
It would have been nice to have recorded the coolant temps before and after to see how much the coolant temperature changed. This would have also given you additional data to process. In this case, reduced friction of the engine components producing less heat due to the Motorkote treatment.
5:26 and 16:18 show all the operating parameters before and after the motorkote treatment. The problem with this is that the engine wants to maintain a certain temperature target around 90C so that the pistons have the correct clearances to the cylinder walls and seal correctly. If Motorkote were to produce less heat and result in lower temps, the thermostat would compensate for this by preventing coolant flow and turning off the radiator fan until the coolant temps come up to target. The only way to tell if Motorkote is making any kind of difference in heat is to do a controlled driving test over the same stretch of road like I did but to also monitor the fan on / fan off times to see how hard the cooling system is working to keep the temps at their targets.
@@ChrisCamaro ...You're right. I completely forgot about the thermostat regulating the coolant temperatures to maintain the proper operating temps. I suppose that the gas milage test is about the best way to determine the effectiveness of the reduction of friction within the engine's environment. I like the video nonetheless.
Edit: I should add that to do a true test of improvement using a gas mileage test, it would take about 4-5 tanks without Motorkote going to the same gas station and the same pump at that gas station and filling until the pump clicks off and not adding a drop more. Get the avg. MPG from those tests and then add Motorkote and redo the testing again, using the same procedure.
@@Rickbearcat Yes, this would be much more reliable the way you described it. I had to make a bit of a judgement call because attempting to do such an extensive controlled test also requires mother nature to play ball with you since ambient temps, humidity, etc are also a variable. Since it's easier to ignore those effects if you can do the test quickly when the environment doesn't change all that much, it meant I didn't have time for multiple tanks, so I'm trading off accuracy over multiple tanks with accuracy over multiple environmental states due to the weather.
@@ChrisCamaro ...There are just so many damn variables to account for, isn't there!
@@Rickbearcat No kidding. That's why most simple tests are of limited usefulness - do it again the next day and you get different results.
coated my tires with it now i get unlimited mpg
Tufoil ("slickest substance known to man" according to guiness world bookof records) engine additive brags 1MPG improvement guaranteed. ive used it forever, like it
They can probably make that claim easily because of frictional gains. However there is a ceiling to the gains. Even with a friction coefficient of 0, you would still have losses due to viscous effects. So at some point, the best of the best fluids out there are splitting hairs over who's the best. I'd say if it can perform about the same as motorkote but without the corrosive effects long-term, it's a winner.
@@ChrisCamaro well i figure if NASA can use it so can i, 11 Intl patents dont hurt too.
I already run Amsoil signature series. Do I really NEED this stuff? GREAT for water saturation! Just watch Project Farm!
Will it work on an 2003 f150 and 2014 Silverado?
It will work on any vehicle, doesn't matter what it is.
There's something wrong with your RPMs it should be at 1 1/2 and but it's saying too
Did you ever figure out a way to get it into your wheel bearings?
Depending on the car model, the designated bearings are of a particular design. These cars used fully sealed bearings that are not intended to be disassembled so I can't get to the grease. However other cars do have bearings with a hub cap of sorts that you can remove to access the grease.
According to some reviews of this product, it contains chlorine and also turns to a molasses-like sludge in the oil pan over time. I've used it once in my 5.4L 3-valve V8 Ford engine, but stopped using it after reading some of those reviews and viewing the pictures people had posted. Project Farm tests are not long-term tests, and long-term matters most.
They state that it does not contain chlorine, which you can confirm by checking ingredients
@@UP4U Ingredients are not listed, that's the problem. MSDS sheets on it are incomplete too. As per the reviews some people have done professional oil analysis on it and, apparently, it does contain chlorine. Motorkote is also said to turn to sludge with heat exposure, in the long run.
@@SevenSixTwo2012 You can request that information from them directly. It MAY turn into sludge, but so does regular engine oil over long oil change intervals.
Best to do short intervals, whether you add motorkote or not..
@@UP4U In the long run means well under the recommended oil change intervals. I'm not about to start changing oil every 1k miles because Motorkote's in there, lol.
In any case, I'm no longer putting that half-assed "mystery goo" into my truck's crankcase. Some former users on forums and in reviews say they have grenaded their engines with it. Modern variable valve timing systems are unforgiving of ANY blockages or sludge formation and proper flow in all passages is paramount. Motorkote does not guarantee continued free flow, only less friction on components.
I have never personally experienced the sludging myself but I change my oil regularly and get a good TBA number
How does this do with the oil filter?
U haven't see best line video isn't real how they running big engine iin underwater.bestline has way stronger film than motorkote but doesn't last long maybe 6 k miles then adding best line.after oil change.
If you have seen superior results with bestline, could you post a link? This would help in furthering education on lubricants, which is the goal of this video.
So. Did you stick with Motorkote, or what was your overall experiences these years later?
Yes I still use it, as it is a great product but you MUST have short oil change intervals for whatever you put it in. I use it in my small engines and change the oil every season, in my car engine oil as well. Transmission oil can be more expensive to change so I don't bother after having tested it. You can also use it on external components that are siezing up and it's good for that.
@@ChrisCamaro as a Subaru owner, these cars require a strict oil change regimen. I change my oil every ~3K, hail or high water. I change the gear oil every 30K. I’m a little concerned considering I added some to the transmission, but I’m not too concerned about the engine, hearing you confirm what has been my assessment of this stuff after seeing the Project Farm video.
I appreciate you taking the time to reply.
@@GriogharThomasBaldwin One could sum up by saying the performance is excellent but not the longevity. So as long as you keep flushing your fluids you're fine. And I never saw such a boost in my mileage until using this stuff so the 2nd thing is that it's best for heavily driven vehicles that get a lot of miles, not a weekend car.
@@ChrisCamaro I don’t disagree with that sentiment at all.
My heavily-enjoyed turbo vehicle already uses Rotella T6 for the zinc and molybdenum benefits, and Blackstone has told me a couple times now that given the levels of TBN still in my oil, I could take my oil to 6-7K before I changed it.
Given my understanding of the additives in Rotella protecting against any byproducts, and given my ritualistic oil changes, I feel pretty safe about using it.
Won’t put it in my transmission again, but I see the purpose. I plan on sending this round of oil in to Blackstone to see how the TBN levels look. I expect them to be reduced significantly, if I’ve assessed this correctly.
Nice part is, I plan on another engine in the next year or two anyway, so a teardown will be of interest to me to see the wear points and the oil galleys.
Still on the fence about the power steering, and not sure I’m going to run it in my diff or transmission in the future, but what I *can* say is, the gear whine decrease is *significant.* I’m starting to think of it as a treatment, a one-time run in those with a quick turn around on a drain, though I don’t know the longevity of the benefits, and if it’s worth that trouble and cost for the benefit.
@@GriogharThomasBaldwin Yup agree on all counts. In both my videos I touch on the economics of using Motorkote and off the top of my head it still pays to use it even if you consider the decreased oil intervals. The more you drive the car, the more cost effective it is too since time will eat away at the life of this product more than use.
I'd like to have seen a longer distance test, say 100km round trips before and after, also now 2 years later, do you still get better fuel efficiency or has it dropped off some?
It's dropped off, but you have to replace the Motorkote with each oil change and you have to get your oil changed regularly if you want to see consistent gains. The fluid does degrade kinda fast'ish, and when it does it becomes corrosive so if you use Motorkote, simply combine it with a good oil with high TBN and follow your oil change intervals. It shouldn't harm your engine and you'll get that mileage boost. The reason I didn't do 100km stretches is because it would have been impractical to do the before and after in the same day, given what I went through to squeeze it all in. It's important to do the test quickly to prevent environmental conditions from introducing noise into the results. However have a look at the graphs I produced from the short test I did. You'll see a high degree of correlation, despite the shorter trip. Also check my follow-up video for the break-in.
@@ChrisCamaro
I'm a believer, I was just curious about how things were now, and what the intervals were for retreat with the product, good work
@@goodmanboattransport3441 The gains probably plateau after half a dozen fill-ups but I'm not sure exactly when they decline. I'll try and pay attention for that in the future.
1.3 hdi engines, on fleet vans. First time ever used. Put it in both engine and transmission oil. 2000 kms later, i can tell you 3 things.
- First time i ever saw 3.8lt/100km fuel consumption (before treatment mostly above 4.5)
- Engines work on full rpm range with the same noises as idling.
- Transmission is way WAY softer.
I don't know why he was more worried about adding it to the engine than the transmission. Usually the opposite. Most don't even change the fluid in fear of messing something up. Would like someone to mix motorkote with the grease and grease the suspension drive shaft and steering. Also you forgot the front and rear differentials that eat a lot of power because they changed direction of force
My reasoning is this: The engine is constantly eating itself away. High heat environment, micro contamination, shearing components, metal particles... it's a high wear environment. Transmissions are not like that. It's basically a clean environment with no significant wear and tear so it's a lot easier on the working fluid. With engine oil, you're shortening an already short change interval so you just need to be more careful.
Alternator bearings are sealed
Idler bearings are sealed also
Another one??? Let's see...Engine Shield, DT550, Slick 50, Duralube, Prolong, Prolube, Petron Plus, Archoil, Bestline, Atomoil, TriboTex, TurboMAx, HotShots, LiquiMoly, Seafoam, STP Ceramic, XADO, ZDDP, RISLONE, Motorkote...KITCHEN SINK!!!!!
Does this additive contain Chlorinated Olefin? If so, will that cause oxidation in the engine over time or is that just a myth?
I can't say with 100% confidence but I did see a few references to that so it may. The mechanism of action was that it corrodes the top-most layer of material and turns it into a sort of sacrificial wax that provides the lubrication. That's why when I use this product I use it with an oil with a very high TBN and change the oil after 3 months.
@@ChrisCamaro Okay, understood. I've also read feedback folks use it for a very long time and never had an issue like that. How much of this do you add to one Quart? Thanks
Proline do 5000lbs pressure not motorkote either.cerma engine treatment do 150000 lbs pressure., archoil ar9100 do over million lbs pressure on astm
Chain timed cars love it more ❤❤❤
Any issues if you've previously used Ceratec or Liqui-Moly MOS2?
I haven't used those products myself but based on the mechanism of action of Motorkote, it causes a surface reaction on the metal when heated or put under shear stress. Unless one of these other products interferes in the chemistry, I would think Motorkote would continue to work fine. Just make sure you use really good oil with high base number and don't leave it in there too long between changes.
Update?
wow thats nice !
Well you should send a sample to an oil testing lab after proper oil change
You are lubricating a sealed alternator bearing. The wheel bearing is also sealed!!! WHO LET YOU POST????
Admittedly, it won't do much. However even capillary action allows for the passage of some fluid back and forth. The wheel bearing can be lubricated using a syringe and then sealing the small hole with something like epoxy.
Why annoying music in the background ?
DO NOT put this in your transmission as the video states.. Transmission fluid has set viscosity and lubrication/friction parameters specific to the clutch plates in the transmission. adding motorkote could cause slipping
So far so good...
super video! do you still have motorkote in your car? it seems that motorkote can not stand heat. yesterday I put Amsoil in a glass with a layer of Motorkote. the motorkote dropped down and after stirring it can be mixed well. now 24 hours later it is still mixed. it is not to be seen that there is mixed Motorkote in Amsoil. I am very curious if your car will not get a black slip in the crankcase.
Hmm.. I'll have to let you know at the next oil change interval. I have no direct evidence to back this up but based on some internet research, Motorkote "may" work in a similar fashion to how tool and die lube is used to cool tool bits as they remove material from work pieces. The chemistry is rather complex but there is a continual decomposition of the lube and workpiece surface that produces a regenerating film that provides the amazing lubricating properties. Maybe this film, once removed from the workpiece surface, settles as some sort of sludge. I'll inspect the old oil to see if that's the case or not. Stay tuned!
The oil its emulsified in, (comes with), is lighter than normal oil and tends to evaporate faster in my experience. That's okay, because it's just evaporation and motorkote still lubricates after it evaporates since the active antioxidant chemical binds directly to the metal surfaces. Just be sure to check oil often and add as needed
I put 100ml in fuel aswell
The mileage “test” is funny.
Funny? How?
Im not remotely convinced with your fuel efficiency test. Ive done my own using different octane fuels. Instantaneous Fuel Efficiency is unreliable, inprecise and will fluctuate wildly. Another vehicle following too closely or passing can throw off the reading caused by wind drag and turbulence. If you want to do real test, drive a 50 mile course, beginning and ending at the same spot, control speed, load, log and adjust for wind speed, log fuel trims, ignition timing, engine load, average speed, engine & transmission temps, MAF readings, and average fuel efficiency. Repeat 5 times to get an average baseline. Then use the additive and perform five more drive cycles and average. Compare results. Torque Pro app can do all the logging, and save to a spreadsheet for analysis.
Drag and turbulence? Really? I drove the same direction from the same bridge to the same bridge, with cruise control on at the same speed, on the same day, with minimal traffic. The unreliable instantaneous fuel efficiency measurement was equally unreliable for both trials. Nonetheless I picked up a statistically significant delta between both trials. Whatever effects you're talking about are an order of magnitude lower than the signal I was measuring. Of course a closed circuit test with redundancy would be ideal but who's got the resources to do that? I don't. Point is, as soon as your test is good enough to measure something above the noise floor, you've proven cause and effect which, depending on what your goals are, is often good enough.
@ChrisCamaro you did 4 dyno runs but can't pay for a tank of gas to establish some reliable fuel efficiency tests using a simple 50 mile circuit. The delta between to unreliable, inaccurate readings is junk science. They don't teach critical thinking, statistics, or the scientific method in school any more apparently. The Torque Pro App only cost $5, and OBDII BT adapter is $25. Can't afford gas or simple data logging, not buying it.
if you have worn clutches you may not want a super lubricate added to trans.
I would agree with that. Under normal conditions however, the viscosity of the fluid contributes significantly.
I get the equivalent of a extra gallon in each tank with motokote.
That's pretty awesome. Congrats
14:26 what vehicle is this? thanks
It's a 2011 Impala
@@ChrisCamaro hmmm okay
Are you guys Canadian?
You guys meaning me? Yes, I'm Canadian.
Ready...Set... ENGAGE.
Warp 5.
Anyone who thinks he can "lubricate" sealed alternator & belt tensioner bearings by squirting oil treatment (no matter how good a product), and contemplating adding the same product to sealed hub bearings -- knoweth not what the fuck he speaketh of. There probably were actual dyno & mpg gains -- but sheer ignorance demonstrated by squirting oil treatment into an alternator has voided the test results.
You were doing pretty good there for a moment, right up to the end of your statement. Whether or not test results have validity, remains so, irrespective of the author's ignorance of something else.
Motorcoach the double edged sword of oil. Your damned if you do, and you’re damned if you don’t. Sludge, yes but the acidity and the corrosion was much too high in the laboratory, which is why NASA or the military size away from it.
That's why since publishing this video I have made numerous revisions to my comments to say that if you use it, you should change your oil more often and use an oil with a high TBN. I've been using Penzoil Ultra Platinum and changing oil about every 3 months (I drive a lot) and so far I've not seen any evidence or symptoms that it's harming my engine. I could be wrong of course but that's why I'm keeping my eye on it.
@@ChrisCamaro yes I did see all the comments and about the TBN and changing the oil sooner but even with that I’m telling you the corrosion cannot be stopped. it’s at a micro pitting level at first and grow. It depends on how much motioure is getting in the oil on how bad it gets depending on your climate. Personally, I would only use this in a bad motor situation where you’re trying to get as much as you can out of it. You must expect overtime the potential side effects and if the risk is worth the reward.
Well I'm all for protecting my engine. If you have any personal observations or findings to share I think everyone would love to learn about your findings.@@Good-luck-Jonathan
@@ChrisCamaro I have none since I have not used it due to what I have read about it from others online. Motorkote didn't discover chlorine as a antiwear agent and specialty oil suppliers like Amsoil or Redline don't use it be use because of the issues. Are you doing lab work on your oil just to see what that shows whiling use it?
Haven't gotten to the point of lab work yet but maybe I will progress to that point in the future?@@Good-luck-Jonathan
if this "STUFF" was a real smoking gun, the auto manufacturers would be using it, and they do not!!!!. I used it years ago, with no real benefit, I cannot justify the cost of something that does not help( or hurt )an engine. I have done engine/ transmission/ differential teardowns with/ without the use of this "STUFF", and found the same wear!!!!!.. sorry "MR ED GIBBS" your stuff is a classic case of "DON'T WAIST YOUR MONEY"!!!!
The argument that, "if such and such worked, so and so would use it" is pretty common and equally fallible. There are many reasons why it wouldn't be used in industry. There are many reasons why auto manufacturers don't just make the cars as powerful or fuel efficient as they can for that matter. The effect this product has on the coefficient of friction of 2 bearing metal surfaces is fairly well known and not in dispute. What isn't as well known is its corrosive properties during extended use. That's why, once I figured that out, I started telling people that if they use it they should have regular oil change intervals and use an oil with a high TBN. Other than that drawback, the evidence is clear that it does have an effect. Unless you want to pick out something in my video and tell me how it's unscientific...
@@ChrisCamaro thanks for responding, I am only going on what I have experienced using the "STUFF". it is your call if you want to use it or not. when an engine is running, the oil pressure will provide the "WALL" where bearing surfaces do not touch each other. I have talked to "ED GIBBS", and I could not get a straight answer out of him, he talks in circles, answering your question with a question( trivia question) what is up with that?????. the auto industry, I would be sure that they know about this stuff, and have tested it. they may have found something that they do not like about it. the E'P.A. is always on their ass about getting better fuel mileage, and if all they had to do is drop the "STUFF" in, they would have done it!!!
@@gregoryclemen1870 In automotive engineering they have rigorous testing standards that they have to subject OEM materials to, including the oil. I suspect that since they have to warranty the car based on a fairly liberal maintenance interval, if they let people run MK in their car and drive 10k in various climates and load conditions before changing it, it could cause trouble such as sludge or premature wear. So that alone could disqualify it for use in an OEM where the cost to benefit doesn't justify using it. However for consumer cars out of warranty or I'm thinking heavy duty fleet vehicles like semi trucks (who swear by this stuff), it's great because they change their oil often and put a lot of miles on the vehicle at a fairly steady load. They save a lot of money from a couple bottles of this product, just according to their own testimonies. It's not a wonder fluid or anything. I wouldn't put it in a new car or one you don't plan to take good care of but if you're a gearhead or a trucker or you have some old beater, I don't see how it's a bad thing, if you can save money on gas. Of course the saving money part is the big conditional but I took great care to ensure that my mileage test was scientifically done so that it is not just speculative. So my conclusion from all this is, if you put lots of mileage on your older car, like a trucker would, and you change your oil often, you're fine and will save a few bucks for sure.
@@ChrisCamaro ,I am not making a personal attack on you, or what you have done in terms of your testing. if you feel the need to use the "STUFF", then go ahead, my sister has a toyota camery with over 400 K miles on it, without any rebuilds, and never used motorkote, just oil changes!!!.
@@gregoryclemen1870 It's fine I'm not feeling attacked. I'm just trying to clarify my position on the product, which I have no financial stake in by the way. There are many people who are skeptical (which is good) but that skepticism can morph into a broad based bias that prevents them from accepting change. I've heard a lot of people on oil forums for example who religiously preach that only the OEM oil should be used and nothing else, which is kind of laughable, given how complex the chemistry of lubricants have become nowadays. To think that the GM guys or whoever have the secret recipe and the engine only responds to that, is pretty funny since they often make decisions based on economics or promotional elements. In any case, I don't mind if a person likes or dislikes Motorkote. My objective is to turn pseudo-science into science and say, here's what the product does as a matter of fact and here's what we can only speculate that it does. Project Farm was able to verify the lubricity claims to my satisfaction using his bearing tester and I think I proved the mileage gains. My "observations", unscientific as they may be, that the used oil didn't look very good, confirms your criticisms of the product and that's why I try to caution users that they have to be vigilant with service intervals and use high quality oil, else they might do more harm than good.
Seems like a lot of blah blah blah talking instead of just cutting to the Chase and showing graphs that the audience cannot see or read? And needs to be become more professional shorter and to-the-point!
Like your post? My subscribers, by their own admission, follow me because I am thorough and precise. If that's not your thing, there are all sorts of click bait out there for you. I'm sure it will appeal more to your short attention span. Unfortunately when you work on cars and other forms of technology, you seldom achieve the results you seek by rushing things. And I don't mind weeding out people like you because you'll go and hurt your damn self after trying to reproduce what you saw, crudely and hastily.
I Just put 30 drops of chlorine in each quart of fluid and voila. I used to put 60 drops, but 30 makes Almost same results. Cost IS near zero with great results. Never bought additives. I saw in a patent saying that up top 2000ppm CL2 content IS totally safe.
From what I am continually learning about motorkote, chlorinated paraffins may be the active ingredient, validating what you have done as working on the same principle. However Motorkote may have also added stabilizers and alkalinity to the fluid to combat the HCL produced when the chlorine reacts with water. You should be careful to use an oil with a very high base number if you are adding pure chlorine.
@@ChrisCamaro The problem would start beyond 8 k miles. Besides that, I use synthetic Diesel engine oil to have even more reserve on tbn.
@@trsk9967 I never bought motorkote. Size of a drop counter.
@@trsk9967 Exactly, yes, the common one liquid, in concentration of 4 to 5.6% that you buy in the supermarket.
@@trsk9967 Nice exchange with you here. Most products use 15% to 30% of CP which is I believe, a third Cl2 or 5% to 10% Cl2 by itself. Your 20,000 ppm of pure Cl2 is perhaps too much IMO, even in a tiny 100ml flask as in Motorkote. Care to share a link in this concentration? I use engine oils with high Molybdenum which combine Moly with the FeCl2 glass film plating cutting the friction in semi-dry starts, helping a lot in the dry and combined phases in the Stribeck graph coefficient, before the hydrodynamic curve phase. Hence, My result was a quicker start in the first few weeks of use and a darker oil change with a cleaner dipstick in a 110k miles car. Got more of the black carpet in the bottom of the container after settling for more than a month. My low concentration doesn´t take a toll on the overbase additives in the engine oils, so the engine seals won´t be damaged. Yer Brazuka?
That "mileage test" is ridiculous. First of all those mileage numbers shown on dash are not accurate at all. Secondly, those mileage readings are instantaneous estimates. Thirdly, you are extrapolating a certain fuel saving from a very small sampling of data points. An accurate mileage test would involve an extended test using a full tank of fuel or several hundred miles, calculating miles traveled divided by actual amount of fuel used.
Your post is kind of ridiculous for a number of reasons. First, your extended test idea reduces 1 type of error (ie from not having many data points) but at the expense of adding several others (changing environmental conditions, changing roadways, driver vigilance, etc). Second, the mileage computer being instantaneous is not a problem... that's what I want. If you took calculus in school and learned integration you know that you can integrate an instantaneous rate of change to get the area under the curve, which is a useful metric for comparison. And the fact that the mileage computer is inaccurate (which is true to a degree) is also irrelevant because it doesn't have to be. It merely needs to be CONSISTENTLY inaccurate. Because I'm doing an A to B comparison, I'm capturing the delta, not the absolute values. If you look at the graph I plotted you will indeed see a high degree of correlation between the 2 curves, precisely because it's a delta, because the environmental conditions didn't change, because it was an identical stretch of road.
@@ChrisCamaro you can rationalize your "methods" till the cows come home, but you certainly FAILED to convince me.
@@budlanctot3060 That's 1 possibility. There are other ways in which I could have said the same thing. The other possibility is that you don't grasp the physics. I mean it's nothing to be ashamed of. Most people struggle with physics. But it is usually a good idea not to make provocative statements about things you know little about.
Motorkote reacts badly with aluminum parts in a engine. it creates a port blocking black sludge.
It does indeed, as I found out myself. However... the sludge is the resultant of a process of oil breakdown as a result of the acids formed by the motorkote. I now believe that the key to using this product is to simply switch it out frequently. So rather than put 5 or 10k miles on the car, put maybe 3k and do an oil change. Or alternate between motorkote and straight oil and back again. You will get most of the benefits that the motorkote provides for fuel economy without the sludge. You can also use oil with a higher base number which will resist the acids for a longer time. Project farm rates most oils for base number so you could pick an affordable oil with higher base number and change it a bit more often and this should prevent the sludge issue and still save money.
@@ChrisCamarohi Chris, can you elaborate on this further? It sounds like you had a negative experience but you don’t highlight this anywhere.
@@blaudick No it was mostly positive. I didn't actually have a problem myself. I noticed the oil change was particularly black but others had it worse with thick sludge. I never see the worst of these rumors myself and I think it's because those that complain don't take the best care of their cars. If you change your oil at regular intervals I don't think you'll have a problem. To be safe I'd maybe change 20% sooner but it's probably not necessary. Really I'd only be concerned if you didn't change your oil on time. Motorkote just seems to be the sort of stuff that's good until it's not good, know what I mean?
Sorry to say it's garbage. Tested yesterday and it's nothing as you show in here. I use polytron or bestline. Don't use it. My advice. I will never put this in my engine.
Can you elaborate on why it's "garbage" ? How did you apply it to your vehicle and what were the symptoms/results?
Today is Sunday. Tomorrow I will do a test with it on a lubricity test machine. I will upload on utube. Did it already and that's why I gave my opinion. Didn't video it. I'll try to keep you in mind. I will post on FACEBOOK too.
@@vioreldumitru1108 Much appreciated. Any test data that contributes to the knowledge base on this product is highly welcomed.
@@ChrisCamaro have done it. Let me know where to send it
@@vioreldumitru1108 Why not either upload to youtube or to another video hosting service so that anyone who's interested (like those who have posted here) can check it out?
You could share the URL here.
Hope y’all like sludge! Everyone’s concerned with increase mpg but real world what happens? Stick with the oil your car calls for! Period!
If the engine doesn't have any design defects (like the Chrysler 2.7 which is known to sludge up) and is otherwise in good health and you follow your oil change interval with high TBM oil, this will not be a problem. Of course there is nothing wrong with sticking with the factory recommended oil but there's no scientific evidence to suggest that only that oil is good for your car. Case in point: My Camaro came from the factory with Mobil 1, which is an ok oil but there are far better oils that cost way less.