You're like the Bob Ross of mechanics. Mellow with a velvety baritone voice. Makes me happy I need to work on my bike on a beautiful day. Happy little fork seals.
This guy is the shovel guru, but not to proud to make a simple fork seal replacement video for aspiring DIY MC owners. Nice, glad to see you disassemble forks the same way I do. Curious to see how you get the fork cap back in under spring tension. I have large arms and just brute force it in most of the time. lol I have the tool to help on touring models, some of those have insanely stout springs.
I remembered you had a trick for spreading the lower clamp ! Repairing fork leak seal on my 75 FLH. The trick works great for spreading lower clamp. Thanks again.
Looking for an older Dyna right now--save the RK for my trips down the Blue Ridge. Your videos, with your extremely clear way of explaining things, are always very helpful.
You bet. But that 77 is quite a bit different. If you're looking in your service manual (and I hope you do), you'll see that late in 77, Harley started using Showa brand forks. They are different from the old original Harley forks and they are different from what we showed here. If you're just changing fork oil, read it. If you're installing new seals, read it. Figure out what you've got. Showa forks were installed on 77 FL's, I believe, after September 77.
Thanks for the reply and heads up. I have the manual. Skill? That's another story. I might chicken out! I know they did a midyear change. Cause I read and watch you!
Take it slow. Be careful. You're better than most, because you take the time to read. We all start at the beginning. Don't forget to enjoy it and feel proud, like you just gave yourself a present.
Wow Mike, this is just what I needed to see to get this done. Also, oddly soothing video, like motorcycle Bob Ross.... At 12:56, I almost expected a "Happy lil fork tube...."
Thanks for this video, Mike! I recently bought a 2000 Dyna FXDWG and want to lower it a bit. I have a Progressive Suspension lowering kit on the way, and I plan on doing the install myself, along with new O-rings, seals and bushings.
hi Mike...I have a dyna with the leak and i was just about to research on how to and there you are....love it easy to follow and obviously a experienced bike guy....thx
Ah it a pleasure to see you in good trim, and having done several forks over the years I now have to wait and see if you shim the bushings. Zero play and near-zero drag was the goal when I was doing that sort of thing.
Thanks mike ; always pleasure to watch . Did mine . Used the old seal on top and old broken triple tree bottom to knock in . Don’t forget to put drain plug in before filling . 😁 ✊🏻👍👌👋
@@pacificmike9501 dang ; they save a few bucks - I watched a few old biker movies and they have the rubber covers over tubes . Never cared for the looks but guess they do work . 😁 Heard the worst thing is the dried bug guts on tubes . Not good on seals - ✊🏻👍👌👋
Yah, just old style stuff. A lot of people love 'em. Different strokes. I've got a collection of old biker movies. I remember when most of them were made.
@@pacificmike9501 Any chance of you educating us on magneto’s? Especially how to set one for for generator vs stator bike. I have asked many people that question and get varying answers.
The charging system has nothing to do with it. Getting instructions from the manufacturer (Morris, Burkhardt, Joe Hunt), works or use an early Sportster (58-69) XLCH HD factory Service manual. It's just a matter or getting the timing very exacting. No big sparkplug gaps. Book calls for .018 or .019.
You remind of a old school taught me a lot when I was coming up his name was Rummy he was a well know remarkable soul he rode an fxr had over 400k miles on it
Hey Mike I really enjoy your videos. I have a couple of questions not related to the fork seals but here goes: 1) I have a 1990 evo softail that has an S&S carb and intake. Will the intake flanges/ seals from the stock manifold work with the S&S manifold? Just the seals perhaps? 2) Have you ever heard of or used Murphys soap? A tire shop turned me onto it to help seat a troublesome bead on an aluminum rim. It's thick like axle grease but is water soluble. Can I use it on the rubber intake seals? Thanks in advance
That's a good 'trick' on how to spread the lower tree without nicking the lower tree. Can't tell you how many times I've held my breath as I've slid a tube out, hoping not to nick scratch the something.
HOWDY Mike, My DYNA Fork-Tubes are smaller but Thanks you for the PROCEDURE I'm sure it will work on smaller diameter fork-tubes, too I especially the Match-Book cardboard & Wood-Chisel trick COOP .............................................
Moin, thank you "both Mike s" ;-) for the very usefull Video. Excellent to use the Cardboard and the Woodchissel! In the past, I used no Cardboard and a Screwdriver..... I will do that never again!! Thank you!!!
Another great how to Video. thanks Mike. I still think you should make your videos a little longer, you should make this video you changing both forks, there's 1000's of people that make videos everyday and they are 1 our long
Dumb question; what is that tool called that you hit with the hammer to loosen the bolt? On aircraft we used a "screw knocker" in a rivet gun, but yours looks a lot more handy if you don't have the facilities, anyway couldn't get it to pop up on ebay
Mike, Love your stuff. I have a 2002 Cartridge front-end on my 1997 FHT (I Know, frankenbike). Can I replace the oil in the left side without taking the front fork apart?
Hey Mike ! Thank you for your sharing of your expertise . I recently changed the fuel pump on my 2010 Dyna Wide Glide and my fuel pressure regulator had no metal retainer on it, and the purple (?ground wire?) was broke at the regulator is there a fix you could share with me on what to do about the purple wire that broke ? ( fuel pump harness that came with the new fuel pump did not have the purple wire ) And my new AM pump did not come with pressure regulator retainer or housing . Can you lend me your expert advise on this . Fuel pump still builds pressure without the purple wire hooked up but bike will not start just turns over.
Mike, I love your videos, seems like I get more mechanically inclined with every one! I have question in regard to removing the tubes from the triple trees. Mine are apparently seized tight. All bolts are removed, wedge is in place, but nothing is moving? I tried heating the triple tree collars and spraying PB Blaster and soaked them good. Still won't budge. I have even tried hitting the top caps ( with a block of wood) and a big hammer, nothing? Any advice to get these buggers moving? I'm just replacing the seals, can that be accomplished with the tubes still installed , can the seals even be driving in a halved piece of pvc pipe. Thanks for any knowledge you can provide!!!!!
Wow. That's a pretty unusual situation. You my ruin those parts just to get them apart. I don't know what front end you have, so I can't recommend what to do with those seals. It sounds like everything may need replacing.
Thanks again Mike! I did get them out. They were corroded slightly to the lower yoke. I got a bigger hammer and gently tapped the lower up while my son worked the sliders like a slide hammer. Took a few tries but at last success!
Thank you for sharing. Watched it and very much enjoyed it. I can see someone breaking that lower tree with the wrong thickness of a wood chisel. :( That would be a bad day for someone.
@@pacificmike9501 Wonder if a hard plastic tree fellers wedge would be of strong enough material with enough of an angle for the wedge to spread that upper tree pinch bolt.? Have a similar wedge in plastic automotive door panel removal tool kit that might even be a wider taper...not sure if plastic is as tough as tree fellers wedge...??? Might work as well as cardboard / wood chisel w/o as much "common sense" required...LOL!
Hey mike hope all is well can I get your advice what is a good ignition system module in the cam cover , and black box under the seat it’s for a 93 FXSTC I think mine has gone to ignition heaven after my 3yr old son left my ignition on for 3 days
Hi Mike, Biker Jim from Massachusetts. I’ve been watching ya but no talk. I have a question ? Since I know nothing about wiring or electrical stuff. I was wondering 💭 if I change to electronic ignition would this help my bike to idle ? Run’s great just doesn’t like to idle. Cleaned out carburetor SS E looks good. Points were adjusted 🤔 💭. I owned this 80 Shovelhead for 11 years now and it never idled good always have to gas it. Any idea’s 💡 ?
Hi Mike, I'm in the process of changing my 07 Dyna stock front end with 49mm x 25.5" long slider tubes, to a Dyna Switchback 41mm x 26.25" long slider tubes. I'm replacing everything including the triple trees, lowers, and headlight. I have to increase the 41mm length, because the stock Switchback slider length is a half inch shorter with a stock length of 25". I don't wanna go down in height so I plan on increasing the length to the next available size at 26.25". My question is, how do I calculate the correct internals to accomplish this? Thanks, John
That's one that changes with the internals. I'm afraid you're on your own. In mixing and matching things from different sets, you have to study those pictures and measure to compare parts. This is what we call "hot rodding." It's mixing and matching to accomplish a specific end result.
Hey. Mike , I’m a bit confused. I didn’t know there was a tapper screen. Where is it located. ??? I know it has a 2 springs in the top of the oil pump which I replaced but didn’t see any screens in either of the ports
The "tappet screen" is located at the top of the crankcase, on the right rear corner near the "tower" on the oil pump. Remove the plug (yours is probably very tight, be careful). With a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the screen and wash it out with solvent, gasoline, or alcohol, and blow it dry. That screen filters the oil that goes to the lifters and top end. It is routine maintenance and should be checked regularly. I check them and clean them every time I change oil.
@@pacificmike9501 thank You, I took the screen out , no sludge in it , put a new ball and spring in ,, took the bike out and unfortunately it’s still dumping oil in the exhaust after I idle some times . Haven’t done the lifters yet..
@@pacificmike9501 no. There are no leaks anymore. The air cleaner and carb intake are clean. The oil is being dumped into the exhaust pipe and coming out white. It only happens when I’m sitting at idle then accelerate.
What do you do if the bolt is so tight it spins the inners and does not break lose from the damper. For some reason neither of the bolts came out and just spun the damper, How screwed am I?
I showed how to remove those bolts with a HAND impact. An air impact will spin them. Try a good brand hand impact driver (mine is a Snap-On) with a new allen bit on it. (don't know what you're working on, probably 6mm)
6:45 - Having studied UK dentistry techniques in gory detail, Mike was now able to proceed with forceful grace. (Grace the hex didn't much like that name, in her world she felt there were usually six sides to every story. Y'all : )
Hello Mike. Me name is Fernando. I have 73 FLH with a cracked frame. I have the bike stripped to the bare frame. I need a good person to weld/ repair it. I live in Long Beach Ca. You have anyone to recommend? Thanks
I've done a bunch on my 77 FLH Shovelhead. Go to our RUclips homepage and click on the word "videos." There's 251 videos up, a bunch on my own Shovelhead.
Hey Mike! Hope all is well. Met you up in Idylwilde last summer. What’s the next swap meet or event you plan on attending? I want to come say hello. Thanks for the video, will definitely come in handy with changing the fork oil on my low rider. Take care my friend and keep the videos coming. Tell camera man Mike I say hello.
Hello. Good to hear from you. The 28th and 29th is the "Born Free" show in Santiago Canyon. I should be there on Saturday. Hope to see you there. More on forks in the next video.
Just for future reference there is no way those aluminum triple trees are gonna scratch or hurt those fork tubes because there steel tubes. You may be thinking of the old Harley stuff that had steel triple trees. I could be wrong though!
@@pacificmike9501 man i had a heck of a time last night putting on that freakin cap... the lowering kit does away with that long tube spacer. its probably worth it just to lower it and inch and not have to deal with that thing ever again!
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w7Wf0h1Q8a4/mqdefault.jpg)
You're like the Bob Ross of mechanics. Mellow with a velvety baritone voice. Makes me happy I need to work on my bike on a beautiful day. Happy little fork seals.
Wow, thanks!
Hello Mike, glad you’re back!!!
I didn't go anywhere. Thank You
nice to feel the 40 years experience in your voice and practices, dear old friend
Thanks for listening
Sir you are a surgeon. It is a pleasure learning from you. thank you
Thank You. It's stuff you can learn.
I'm in the UK and ride a Triumph..but your videos can apply to a cross section of bikes...common sense and a patient approach to bike maintenance. 👍
Well said. I like Triumphs.
You are the Bob Ross of Harley Davidsons - Thanks for making these videos.
Wow, thanks!
Excellent use of the cardboard to put in the tree. Another excellent video Mike and cameraman Mike! 👍👍 🇨🇦
Thank You
😊
Great video Mike! 👍🏻
Something very therapeutic listening to your voice.
Wow, thanks!
Patients is a big part of your teaching and I love it. Thanks Richie.
Thank You
Splitting the pinch joint. With cardboard and chisel. Great idea. Never thought of that. Thanks for the tip
No problem!
Wow, That's a lot of fork oil, dirty too. Good video Mike....Thanks!
You bet. I believe aluminum blackens that fluid. Not really that dirty.
This guy is the shovel guru, but not to proud to make a simple fork seal replacement video for aspiring DIY MC owners. Nice, glad to see you disassemble forks the same way I do. Curious to see how you get the fork cap back in under spring tension. I have large arms and just brute force it in most of the time. lol I have the tool to help on touring models, some of those have insanely stout springs.
I know. I do the animal routine. It takes two of us. You'll see.
Thank you Mike for taking the time to do this video for all of us! YOU ARE AWESOME!!!!!
Thanks, great technique removing the forks. Learned a few things.
Glad it was helpful!
I remembered you had a trick for spreading the lower clamp ! Repairing fork leak seal on my 75 FLH. The trick works great for spreading lower clamp. Thanks again.
Thank You. Glad it helped.
Like the bit with the cardboard, Onya Mike !
Thank You
Looking for an older Dyna right now--save the RK for my trips down the Blue Ridge. Your videos, with your extremely clear way of explaining things, are always very helpful.
Glad to help!
Thanks, I could really use this. I'm going to give it a try on my 77 FLH. Glad camera man Mike's seal's leaked. Well I'm not glad but you get it!
You bet. But that 77 is quite a bit different. If you're looking in your service manual (and I hope you do), you'll see that late in 77, Harley started using Showa brand forks. They are different from the old original Harley forks and they are different from what we showed here. If you're just changing fork oil, read it. If you're installing new seals, read it. Figure out what you've got. Showa forks were installed on 77 FL's, I believe, after September 77.
Thanks for the reply and heads up. I have the manual. Skill? That's another story. I might chicken out! I know they did a midyear change. Cause I read and watch you!
Take it slow. Be careful. You're better than most, because you take the time to read. We all start at the beginning. Don't forget to enjoy it and feel proud, like you just gave yourself a present.
@@royboy3597 You need to do it. Take your time . You might even find another video on YT. You can do it.
What a wonderful video. You're smooth and effortless way of working makes it easy to follow and a pleasure to learn.
Glad you enjoyed it!
What up Mike
Good wisdom Now one day I can try to do my own
Be safe take care of yourself Mike
Thank You. You too.
Wow Mike, this is just what I needed to see to get this done. Also, oddly soothing video, like motorcycle Bob Ross.... At 12:56, I almost expected a "Happy lil fork tube...."
That's great. Thank You.
Thank you Mr Mike. I love learning from you. Your inspirational.
I appreciate that!
Always good content. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video, Mike!
I recently bought a 2000 Dyna FXDWG and want to lower it a bit. I have a Progressive Suspension lowering kit on the way, and I plan on doing the install myself, along with new O-rings, seals and bushings.
Cool.
Groovy stuff boys. Makes it look easy with all the tips and tricks.
Thank You. That's the point.
hi Mike...I have a dyna with the leak and i was just about to research on how to and there you are....love it easy to follow and obviously a experienced bike guy....thx
Glad I could help
Ah it a pleasure to see you in good trim, and having done several forks over the years I now have to wait and see if you shim the bushings. Zero play and near-zero drag was the goal when I was doing that sort of thing.
Okay.
Thank for the tricks of the trades there ..great information here
Our pleasure!
Love that you care about the bke
They are "love" things.
Hello Mike great to see you today it was not long ago I put seal in a street Glide
Hello. The assembly is quite similar.
@@pacificmike9501 yes sir almost the same
Thanks mike ; always pleasure to watch . Did mine . Used the old seal on top and old broken triple tree bottom to knock in .
Don’t forget to put drain plug in before filling . 😁
✊🏻👍👌👋
No drain plug. The damper screw in the bottom was it. Most aggravating. No drain plug.
@@pacificmike9501 dang ; they save a few bucks -
I watched a few old biker movies and they have the rubber covers over tubes .
Never cared for the looks but guess they do work . 😁
Heard the worst thing is the dried bug guts on tubes . Not good on seals -
✊🏻👍👌👋
Yah, just old style stuff. A lot of people love 'em. Different strokes. I've got a collection of old biker movies. I remember when most of them were made.
@@pacificmike9501 I watch em and how things have changed - wow - 👍👌✊🏻
Awesome! Ty so much!!!
I basically started an apprenticeship last week And love my HD's and now love wrenching with confidence. Ty!
Cool. Thank You.
Great video with helpful tips for scratch prevention. LOVE the Dyna's light and nimble bikes ( would LOVE to get an FXR) .
This one really handles and flies.
👍😊
You are the Bob Ross of Harleys, so relaxing! Amazing video 👍
Wow, thanks!
I learned a lot. Thanks Mike!
Glad to hear it!
Thank you Mike!
You are welcome!
Always a delightful learning experience watching your videos Pacific Mike. Have learned a lot from you. Thanks for doing these videos.
Thanks for watching!
@@pacificmike9501
Any chance of you educating us on magneto’s? Especially how to set one for for generator vs stator bike. I have asked many people that question and get varying answers.
The charging system has nothing to do with it. Getting instructions from the manufacturer (Morris, Burkhardt, Joe Hunt), works or use an early Sportster (58-69) XLCH HD factory Service manual. It's just a matter or getting the timing very exacting. No big sparkplug gaps. Book calls for .018 or .019.
I will be using a mag in the future, but it's a ways off.
Thanks for sharing mike....you help make it possible for me to do my own work ...I love it thank again...and keep the shiny side down
Thank You, and you too.
He's like the Bob Ross of motorcycles! Gotta love his knowledge
Thank You.
This is exactly the video I was looking for. Guys like this are awesome, I’m glad to know he’s out there! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video
Thank You
Step by step.. Beautiful MIke. Thanks you
Thank You
Great video, lotsa help thanks. I was able to take the cap off and remove the springs with the tube still on the bike. Plenty of clearance.
Cool.
You remind of a old school taught me a lot when I was coming up his name was Rummy he was a well know remarkable soul he rode an fxr had over 400k miles on it
Sounds cool. Thank You.
Nice bike cameraman Mike.
Yes it is.
😊
Hey Mike I really enjoy your videos. I have a couple of questions not related to the fork seals but here goes:
1) I have a 1990 evo softail that has an S&S carb and intake. Will the intake flanges/ seals from the stock manifold work with the S&S manifold? Just the seals perhaps?
2) Have you ever heard of or used Murphys soap? A tire shop turned me onto it to help seat a troublesome bead on an aluminum rim. It's thick like axle grease but is water soluble. Can I use it on the rubber intake seals?
Thanks in advance
I like you Old guy like me helping out
and patience and grace with the tools
Thank You.
That's a good 'trick' on how to spread the lower tree without nicking the lower tree. Can't tell you how many times I've held my breath as I've slid a tube out, hoping not to nick scratch the something.
I know the feeling. That's why I do it the way I do.
Great video. Thanks for the how-to
Glad it was helpful!
Definitely like the cardboard trick....good stuff...
Thanks 👍
Lots of good information 👍 thanks Mike
Glad it was helpful!
HOWDY Mike,
My DYNA Fork-Tubes are smaller
but
Thanks you for the PROCEDURE
I'm sure it will work on smaller diameter fork-tubes, too
I especially the Match-Book cardboard & Wood-Chisel trick
COOP
.............................................
Yes it will
Moin, thank you "both Mike s" ;-) for the very usefull Video. Excellent to use the Cardboard and the Woodchissel! In the past, I used no Cardboard and a Screwdriver..... I will do that never again!! Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Very detailed and explanatory. Thank you for sharing this. 🤙🏽
Glad you enjoyed it!
Never seen it done before, thanks!
Thank You
yes sir quality content as usual thankyou
Thank You.
Thanks, lots of good content.
Thank You
Another great how to Video. thanks Mike. I still think you should make your videos a little longer, you should make this video you changing both forks, there's 1000's of people that make videos everyday and they are 1 our long
We get best results with short videos. Not everyone can sit through a long one.
Thank you Mike .
You're quite welcome. The next video will show more on the front end.
Dumb question; what is that tool called that you hit with the hammer to loosen the bolt? On aircraft we used a "screw knocker" in a rivet gun, but yours looks a lot more handy if you don't have the facilities, anyway couldn't get it to pop up on ebay
It is a "Hand Impact." That particular one is a Snap-On brand and makes a lot more torque than one of lesser quality.
Excellent video, I have to do this soon on my wide glide, thanks a lot for the info on how to do this..👍
Glad it was helpful!
Nicely done Mike👍
Thank You
I have dyna did think how do you get those chrome caps off , when the time comes I now know 👍👍
Cool.
Wait to see how they go back on.
Mike, Love your stuff. I have a 2002 Cartridge front-end on my 1997 FHT (I Know, frankenbike). Can I replace the oil in the left side without taking the front fork apart?
Thank You. Afraid I have to stick with the book on this one.
Great information
Thank You
Hey Mike ! Thank you for your sharing of your expertise . I recently changed the fuel pump on my 2010 Dyna Wide Glide and my fuel pressure regulator had no metal retainer on it, and the purple (?ground wire?) was broke at the regulator is there a fix you could share with me on what to do about the purple wire that broke ? ( fuel pump harness that came with the new fuel pump did not have the purple wire ) And my new AM pump did not come with pressure regulator retainer or housing . Can you lend me your expert advise on this . Fuel pump still builds pressure without the purple wire hooked up but bike will not start just turns over.
Sorry, without experimenting, all I would have is in the service manual or at the dealership.
Great video. Thank you for tips on scratch free process. 👍🏻
You bet. Thank You
That thing held a lot of oil? Always love stopping by the garage. Have a blessed week my friend.
Thanks, you too!
“The Shovel Guy” I like that
Mike speaking of shovels what is the rise of your Handel bars?
Very tastefully done, just enough rise . Thx sir.
12"
Another Great Video... Thx a bunch...
Glad you enjoyed it
Mike, I love your videos, seems like I get more mechanically inclined with every one! I have question in regard to removing the tubes from the triple trees. Mine are apparently seized tight. All bolts are removed, wedge is in place, but nothing is moving? I tried heating the triple tree collars and spraying PB Blaster and soaked them good. Still won't budge. I have even tried hitting the top caps ( with a block of wood) and a big hammer, nothing? Any advice to get these buggers moving? I'm just replacing the seals, can that be accomplished with the tubes still installed , can the seals even be driving in a halved piece of pvc pipe. Thanks for any knowledge you can provide!!!!!
Wow. That's a pretty unusual situation. You my ruin those parts just to get them apart. I don't know what front end you have, so I can't recommend what to do with those seals. It sounds like everything may need replacing.
@@pacificmike9501 sorry 35mm Shiowa, 76 Sportster.
Thanks again Mike! I did get them out. They were corroded slightly to the lower yoke. I got a bigger hammer and gently tapped the lower up while my son worked the sliders like a slide hammer. Took a few tries but at last success!
If they're in too bad a shape, using a newer front end is an option. Glad you got them though. I hope the rest of the job goes well.
Thank you Sir! After watching part 2, reassembly, it should be a walk in the park.
Thank you for sharing. Watched it and very much enjoyed it. I can see someone breaking that lower tree with the wrong thickness of a wood chisel. :( That would be a bad day for someone.
I can't teach "common sense." Don't spread it more than you need to.
@@pacificmike9501 Wonder if a hard plastic tree fellers wedge would be of strong enough material with enough of an angle for the wedge to spread that upper tree pinch bolt.? Have a similar wedge in plastic automotive door panel removal tool kit that might even be a wider taper...not sure if plastic is as tough as tree fellers wedge...??? Might work as well as cardboard / wood chisel w/o as much "common sense" required...LOL!
Hey mike hope all is well can I get your advice what is a good ignition system module in the cam cover , and black box under the seat it’s for a 93 FXSTC I think mine has gone to ignition heaven after my 3yr old son left my ignition on for 3 days
I use a Dynatech programmable.
@@pacificmike9501 does that do away with the black box
Yes.
The bottom fork drain screw...is that lefty loosely...righty tightly ..
Yes.
Question: why don't my 41 mm Wide Glide forks utilize that inner initial dust seal? It only has the single oil seal below that metal snap ring.
Different models. I don't know what you have.
Have you ever tried hydraulicing the seals out? faster and cleaner.
No, I haven't.
Thank you
You're welcome
Hi Mike, Biker Jim from Massachusetts. I’ve been watching ya but no talk. I have a question ? Since I know nothing about wiring or electrical stuff. I was wondering 💭 if I change to electronic ignition would this help my bike to idle ? Run’s great just doesn’t like to idle. Cleaned out carburetor SS E looks good. Points were adjusted 🤔 💭. I owned this 80 Shovelhead for 11 years now and it never idled good always have to gas it. Any idea’s 💡 ?
Probably timing and carb adjust.
@@pacificmike9501 Okay 👌 I’ll try this again, thanks 🙏
Do you do a vid on how to replace seals on harley air ride forks?
I don't have one.
Do you have a show on Speed Vision?
No, but certainly a nice thought.
Excellent Video ,thank you for the tips
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Mike,
I'm in the process of changing my 07 Dyna stock front end with 49mm x 25.5" long slider tubes, to a Dyna Switchback 41mm x 26.25" long slider tubes.
I'm replacing everything including the triple trees, lowers, and headlight.
I have to increase the 41mm length, because the stock Switchback slider length is a half inch shorter with a stock length of 25".
I don't wanna go down in height so I plan on increasing the length to the next available size at 26.25".
My question is, how do I calculate the correct internals to accomplish this?
Thanks,
John
That's one that changes with the internals. I'm afraid you're on your own. In mixing and matching things from different sets, you have to study those pictures and measure to compare parts. This is what we call "hot rodding." It's mixing and matching to accomplish a specific end result.
Hey. Mike , I’m a bit confused. I didn’t know there was a tapper screen. Where is it located. ??? I know it has a 2 springs in the top of the oil pump which I replaced but didn’t see any screens in either of the ports
The "tappet screen" is located at the top of the crankcase, on the right rear corner near the "tower" on the oil pump. Remove the plug (yours is probably very tight, be careful). With a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the screen and wash it out with solvent, gasoline, or alcohol, and blow it dry. That screen filters the oil that goes to the lifters and top end. It is routine maintenance and should be checked regularly. I check them and clean them every time I change oil.
@@pacificmike9501 thank You, I took the screen out , no sludge in it , put a new ball and spring in ,, took the bike out and unfortunately it’s still dumping oil in the exhaust after I idle some times . Haven’t done the lifters yet..
@@pacificmike9501 thank you mike. Appreciate your help once again
Is this oil coming out of a breather hose? I've forgotten if your motor is a "head breather" or "crankcase breather."
@@pacificmike9501 no. There are no leaks anymore. The air cleaner and carb intake are clean. The oil is being dumped into the exhaust pipe and coming out white. It only happens when I’m sitting at idle then accelerate.
Thanks great info
Glad it was helpful!
Any idea what size of a hex wrench you need and how long it needs to be to get the damper rod bolt? What did you grind the 12mm hex/allen key down to?
I just did it until it fit.
Hey Mike, I have a 47 knucklehead, do you work on other people's bikes?
No, I am retired.
What do you do if the bolt is so tight it spins the inners and does not break lose from the damper. For some reason neither of the bolts came out and just spun the damper, How screwed am I?
I showed how to remove those bolts with a HAND impact. An air impact will spin them. Try a good brand hand impact driver (mine is a Snap-On) with a new allen bit on it. (don't know what you're working on, probably 6mm)
Watch this video three times. Thank you
Glad you enjoy it!
Is it a 1 3/8 wrench for the top plug
I believe so.
thanks mike , i did the front fork oil 10 years ago and forgot how to do it 2006 fxdwgi
That's one of those things I really do oftener than I used to. It really makes things work better.
Thanks very much
Thank You
6:45 - Having studied UK dentistry techniques in gory detail, Mike was now able to proceed with forceful grace.
(Grace the hex didn't much like that name, in her world she felt there were usually six sides to every story. Y'all : )
And "Grace" is certainly an authority on such things.
what year Dyna Mike?
2008
😊
How many blue shirts do you have?
One
👍😊
Hello Mike. Me name is Fernando. I have 73 FLH with a cracked frame. I have the bike stripped to the bare frame. I need a good person to weld/ repair it.
I live in Long Beach Ca. You have anyone to recommend? Thanks
Try Dr. John in Anaheim.
@@pacificmike9501 ok. Thanks
Bonjour, merci pour vos renseignement JEAN👌
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoy it.
You need to do one on a 1976 Shovelhead help out the old timers! LOL
I've done a bunch on my 77 FLH Shovelhead. Go to our RUclips homepage and click on the word "videos." There's 251 videos up, a bunch on my own Shovelhead.
Best video on youtube
Wow! Thank you.
What are the plastic tools called?
"Plastic Tools." Hey, I really don't know. I get them at Harbor Freight. I think the whole package is about 6 or 7 dollars.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks I saw some called plastic chisels?
Probably.
Hey Mike! Hope all is well. Met you up in Idylwilde last summer. What’s the next swap meet or event you plan on attending? I want to come say hello. Thanks for the video, will definitely come in handy with changing the fork oil on my low rider. Take care my friend and keep the videos coming. Tell camera man Mike I say hello.
Hello. Good to hear from you. The 28th and 29th is the "Born Free" show in Santiago Canyon. I should be there on Saturday. Hope to see you there. More on forks in the next video.
👋🙂
@@pacificmike9501 Awesome, I'll have to bring the little one and the old lady for you to meet.
Awesome.
Super big help
I'm glad. Thank You.
Awesome man. Appreciate you
I appreciate that!
I appreciate that!
Just for future reference there is no way those aluminum triple trees are gonna scratch or hurt those fork tubes because there steel tubes. You may be thinking of the old Harley stuff that had steel triple trees. I could be wrong though!
Yes, they do.
@@pacificmike9501 man i had a heck of a time last night putting on that freakin cap... the lowering kit does away with that long tube spacer. its probably worth it just to lower it and inch and not have to deal with that thing ever again!