Phillip, you are an excellent mechanic, there are not many who would have figured that out. I hope that is not my problem but if so you gave a whole bunch of people great insight! Thank you!
I’m going thru the same issue right this moment, I’m in my driveway with my iPad, The hatch was working about an hour ago then later it doesn’t work. I believe it is also a wiring issue somewhere. Thanks for doing all this work!!!
This is so well done. You have the patience of Job. My gate will not lock. I do not have the scanners. I gather this would be next to impossible with out it.
If you can access the latch motor you could test for power and ground a the motor with a test light across the connector. it should light in lock and unlock if not check the wiring at the hinge. you might get lucky.
We just experienced this failure. I’m gonna tell my mechanic so he knows where to look. I did start yelling at the screen when you missed the lock statuses at the beginning, but being in the thick of it without knowing what causes the problem is completely understandable.
Thanks, this was driving me crazy no power to hatch door lock. Trouble was in the front passenger door wouldn't unlock, couldn't get it open either. door lock lever frozen. fixed that and hatch door works.
When doors were unlocked, would the driver rear remain physically locked? Trying to troubleshoot without a diagnostic tool. Excellent video! I just paid to have the latch replaced. The intermittent issue quickly returned.
No the door locks worked properly but the wire to the left rear door lock status switch was broken. This caused the door to be reported as locked preventing the rear Hatch from opening. Very stupid logic I'm my opinion. Pop the boots off the door pillars and physically look for broken wires.
Thanks for the video, very informative. My wife's 2014 crv rear hatch works ok in warm weather but will not open in cold weather. (Below about 35 degrees) Any ideas??
Same problem here, its common on the 4th gen. Dealer said it freezes in cold weather. I am not paying the 400 for a new one. But you can open it from inside by popping open the little door and pushing the latch to the right with a small screwdriver
I have a CRV that had the lift gate damaged due to an accident. The latch is draining the battery because it’s showing as open. If I cut the purple cable will it stop draining the battery? Thanks
If you're referring to the purple wire I fixed in this video then no that won't do it. If the lift gate is showing as open when it's closed it could theoretically cause a battery drain but I'm not 100% certain. Also if I remember correctly the lift gate latch switch is normally closed and opens with the gate open. You could try disconnecting the latch switch and see what happens to the warning message on the dash. If that still shows open the jump the two wires together. Should show closed now. Be sure your on the liftgate latch switch wires.
How are you testing it for power. You should see 12volts with a volt meter if the switch is open and 0 volts switch closed. If you have continuity on the wire from the micu to the switch check for a short to ground on the circuit. Cut the wire at the minute and see if you have 12volts leaving the micu. Good luck.
What adds to the confusion is there are 4 data parameters related to each door that have to do with switches. Lock Knob switch unlocked and locked, latch switch open and closed, lock button on and off. It's so confusing but make sense now. On top of that the data is in several lists...
I did both rear door actuators and cust states hatch won't open. He now says child lock on LR was engaged and now that it's disengaged, the rear hatch works. Does that follow the logic?
Yes that purple wire is pulled to ground by the internal latch switch when the door is unlocked. If the micu thinks a door is locked it won't allow the operation of the rear Hatch. Could happen with any of the four doors. Stupid logic...
@@PhillipBailey crazy I ordered a new rear hatch Actuator for my 2008 Crv ...replaced it but it does nothing now I'm wondering if something else is causing it....other problems with the crv are the 2 rear door Actuators are going out as well (nasty irritating noise) when unlocking....my ac compressor is not being turned on (something in the relay box) not giving signal from the ground connector to the compressor ...hopefully it's not an expensive fix
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Phillip, you are an excellent mechanic, there are not many who would have figured that out. I hope that is not my problem but if so you gave a whole bunch of people great insight! Thank you!
Appreciate the compliment and thanks for watching
Excellent analysis - I had the exact same issue - Well Done!
I’m going thru the same issue right this moment, I’m in my driveway with my iPad, The hatch was working about an hour ago then later it doesn’t work. I believe it is also a wiring issue somewhere. Thanks for doing all this work!!!
Good luck!
Thank you for taking the time to post this, it was a complete lifesaver! Probably saved hours upon hours of diagnostic nightmare.
Glad it helped you. Stupid logic on Honda's part...
You're DA MAN !!! Saved me from insanity 😅🎉
This is so well done. You have the patience of Job. My gate will not lock. I do not have the scanners. I gather this would be next to impossible with out it.
If you can access the latch motor you could test for power and ground a the motor with a test light across the connector. it should light in lock and unlock if not check the wiring at the hinge. you might get lucky.
Thank you for this awesome debug!!! My mom has been having this issue for years
Excelente trabajo amigo me sirvió para arreglar una honda pilot 2011
Great job!!!!! Definitely a wonky logic. Why would it matter if a door stays locked to allow the hatch to open. 🤦♂️
I agree with you but unfortunately that's the logic it was programmed with. Thanks for watching.
We just experienced this failure. I’m gonna tell my mechanic so he knows where to look.
I did start yelling at the screen when you missed the lock statuses at the beginning, but being in the thick of it without knowing what causes the problem is completely understandable.
It's definitely over complicated for no reason.
Thanks, this was driving me crazy no power to hatch door lock. Trouble was in the front passenger door wouldn't unlock, couldn't get it open either. door lock lever frozen. fixed that and hatch door works.
You are awesome....! Thanks for all that work...!now I can fix my tail gate...!thanks...!
When doors were unlocked, would the driver rear remain physically locked? Trying to troubleshoot without a diagnostic tool. Excellent video!
I just paid to have the latch replaced. The intermittent issue quickly returned.
No the door locks worked properly but the wire to the left rear door lock status switch was broken. This caused the door to be reported as locked preventing the rear Hatch from opening. Very stupid logic I'm my opinion. Pop the boots off the door pillars and physically look for broken wires.
Thanks for the video, very informative. My wife's 2014 crv rear hatch works ok in warm weather but will not open in cold weather. (Below about 35 degrees) Any ideas??
Im having the same problem.
Could be one of the door switches fails based on temperature but could also be wiring. Temperature alters the flexibility of the wires.
Same problem here, its common on the 4th gen. Dealer said it freezes in cold weather. I am not paying the 400 for a new one. But you can open it from inside by popping open the little door and pushing the latch to the right with a small screwdriver
Thank you for you awesome job!
Very informative!
What is the scanning tool that can be used to detect the issue?
I was using a Snap-on Verus Edge and then a Thinktool pro.
I have a CRV that had the lift gate damaged due to an accident. The latch is draining the battery because it’s showing as open. If I cut the purple cable will it stop draining the battery? Thanks
If you're referring to the purple wire I fixed in this video then no that won't do it. If the lift gate is showing as open when it's closed it could theoretically cause a battery drain but I'm not 100% certain. Also if I remember correctly the lift gate latch switch is normally closed and opens with the gate open. You could try disconnecting the latch switch and see what happens to the warning message on the dash. If that still shows open the jump the two wires together. Should show closed now. Be sure your on the liftgate latch switch wires.
Excellent instructions. Thank you
Sir am not getting power at purple wire at left rear driver side door.has continuity till micu unit.possible unitnis faulty.
How are you testing it for power. You should see 12volts with a volt meter if the switch is open and 0 volts switch closed. If you have continuity on the wire from the micu to the switch check for a short to ground on the circuit. Cut the wire at the minute and see if you have 12volts leaving the micu. Good luck.
yes you the best
Sure is some screwed up logic. Hope it helped you out.
2010 honda crv.there is no code.i am having same problem I can't open tailgate.all doors are unlocked. And they also lock.
They may physically lock but one of tge circuits may be showing that a door is not locked. You won't get any codes.
@Phillip Bailey I have snap on edge it doesn't give me many options.but you did really nice job off getting to bottom of this.
Micu is under dash fuse box and my scanner will do bidirectional on this hatch
That’s the dumbest logic. Honda does some pretty stupid crap. It was looking like the micu at the beginning of the video. Thanks to that tsb
What adds to the confusion is there are 4 data parameters related to each door that have to do with switches. Lock Knob switch unlocked and locked, latch switch open and closed, lock button on and off. It's so confusing but make sense now. On top of that the data is in several lists...
🤪 about to drive into a similar complaint but without the scan tool or logic knowledge. 🤞
@@badandylaoc it's going to be difficult to diagnose without a scan tool in my opinion.
I did both rear door actuators and cust states hatch won't open. He now says child lock on LR was engaged and now that it's disengaged, the rear hatch works. Does that follow the logic?
@@badandylaoc I don't think the child locks have anything to do with it.
So that purple wire was causing the rear hatch door not to open?
Yes that purple wire is pulled to ground by the internal latch switch when the door is unlocked. If the micu thinks a door is locked it won't allow the operation of the rear Hatch. Could happen with any of the four doors. Stupid logic...
@@PhillipBailey crazy I ordered a new rear hatch Actuator for my 2008 Crv ...replaced it but it does nothing now I'm wondering if something else is causing it....other problems with the crv are the 2 rear door Actuators are going out as well (nasty irritating noise) when unlocking....my ac compressor is not being turned on (something in the relay box) not giving signal from the ground connector to the compressor ...hopefully it's not an expensive fix
@@lalosdiecast you need a full function scan tool to look at data parameters for the door switches.