So glad I found your channel. Carpenter ants brought me to your site. I hired and fired 2 professional local companies as they didn’t solve my problem over a 1.5 year stint. I dug in, learned a lot, and have waged my own war on the resident ants on my property. Thank you for your service sir.
@@kurtm.7494 If it does not make sense to you, then don't do it. It seems a lot easier to me than digging a trench around the entire house that is six inches deep and six inches wide, but that's just me. It's true that burying one of these bottles does take me as much as 5 minutes, but I find that it beats the entire days work of trenching. Again, that's just me. Everyone is certainly free to do whatever they wish. I'm just offering the alternative. Be well my friend.
Watched the video a bit mesmerised, then I realised there are no termites in my country. Then I watched the rest of the video. This is an example of a person that can read a telephone book, and be interesting .😊
Thank you so much for those kind words. That is one of the nicest things anyone has ever said to me. Very much appreciated. You must live in a cold climate. There are a number of countries that do not have termites, but they all have the cold in common. If you live in a warm climate that does not have termites, then you need to adopt me. Lol. Be well Jannette.
@@GuysPestSolutions I’m from the Netherlands. According to Wikipedia We and Belgium don’t have termites, yet. Sometimes some invasive ones are spotted. I checked to be sure, you never know with termites, isn’t it?
@@jannetteberends8730 I guess it depends upon who you ask. I don't think there are any native species in the Netherlands or Belgium, but it is my understanding that you now have invasive species of subterranean termites. Naturally, they appear to have come from the United States. So sorry about that. They do not do well in those climates though, so they are not considered to be a serious problem. You will most likely never encounter them. So, not something to be concerned with. Lucky you. Be well Jannette and thanks again for watching.
Great video Guy, and you seem a genuinely nice man to listen to and probably to work with on termites. I don't even have them and I enjoyed listening to you tell us about this solution. Thank you.
Thank you for your informative videos…watched the one about the monitoring stations and how you planted them…still have a minute and a half to go but so far you haven’t demonstrated how we’re supposed to plant the bait station…hope it’s coming!
Another great video. The instructions are so simple the way you explain it and the demonstration on how to bury the bait station tops off the video perfectly. Maybe you could make a video on how I can keep the doves from making nests on top of the hurricane motor box above my front door! They are so messy! Ha Ha Ha!!! Thanks Guy for assisting in another way to eliminate subterranean termites.
Thanks for watching Chris. I always love your feedback. Please send me a photo of that hurricane motor box and I may be able to assist you with the problem. It's one of those things that I need to see. ❤️
Great video thanks for posting. VERY thorough and your delivery is perfectly paced--most are too fast and willy-nilly. with info. Nice library you have too.
Thanks again for another great video. I'm in AZ and I had subterranean termites in my home and had tubes hanging from my ceiling. I drilled the ceiling everywhere I saw a tube and sprayed into the attic, and I haven't seen another sign of termites in well over a year now. I also treated around my house per your recommendations, and I'm working on making several monitoring stations. How can I tell if I have Formosan or another species of termites that this will not be effective for?
Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Hopefully, you do not have Formosan termites. Please let me know if you do. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
As always, my buddy guy, You been help me so much like 2-3 years ago with termites, best wishes from hot hot florida , I will do the other video for prevention , since thank to you is clean,
I'm going to give it a try on the termite station. I used two detergent bottles last week making a mouse/rat station using a mix of baking soda 4 parts, jiffy mix 4 parts and sugar 1 part.🐭🐀
Hi, this channel and you are serving people across the globe with issues they are worried about. Great work. I need your advice on protecting wood planks for long term. Iam in the process of building a new house. Part of the flooring will be raw solid wood made from tree trunks. The foundation of the building is already done pre construction termite treatment using Bayer Premise. Before pouring concrete we applied the chemical mix inside the foundation area then laid back a moisture barrier sheet over the soil, then poured concrete mix over the sheet. The concrete floor again finished with cement plastering. I am planning to add another layer of moisture barrier, PVC sheet, then screw down raw wood planks to the floor with screw and fisher. Before that I like to treat the planks for termites. What would you suggest?. My ideas are 1 Applying borax powder mixed with water and apply it to wood with paint brush or with a sprayer. 1 Applying Bayer Premise or Agenda solution with paint brush or sprayer. Or I expect something more foolproof from your side.Thanks.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You did not mention where you live, but if you live in the US and you do not live in a restrictive state, then the best way to treat the house is with Bora-Care. You want to treat the entire shell from the top of the roof all the way down to the foundation. In other words, if it's make of wood, then treat it on all exposed sides. Borax powder is not going to get it done. Neither will Premise or Agenda. Mix the Bora-Care one to one with water and not one to five as the label suggests. Apply it with a cheap garden sprayer. You can mix it with cold water, so ignore the information that says you need to use hot water. I will give you a link to the product and a link to a video on how on how to use it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Thank you. His name is "Little Guy." He made his first appearance a couple of months ago in one of my videos and folks seem to like him, so I usually try to include him now. Sometimes he asks questions and makes comments. He asked some questions in this video, in the original version, but the video was running long, so I had to cut it out to save time. He appears a lot in my video on how to eliminate drain flies in 3 seconds. Please check it out. I will let him know that you are a fan. 😉😉 Be well my friend. Video on 3 second fix for drain and fruit flies: ruclips.net/video/-EJVnkkfD4k/видео.html
You mentioned placing the bait stations near mud tubes in a crawl space foundation. For Eastern Subterranean Termites, should I be putting monitoring stations on the inside of my crawl space foundation too, or is putting the monitors around the outside perimeter sufficient? Ps. I love all your videos. You take a real engineering approach to pest control and you're an excellent public speaker. Many thanks!
If you have mud tubes in the crawl space, then this would be one way to eliminate the colony. Keep in mind that this only works if the mud tubes are in direct contact with the ground. Install the bait station so that it is literally touching the mud tube. Break open about a 2-in section of the mud tube and try to obtain some termites. You should put a few live termites into the bait station. Termites do not live long after they have been exposed to the air, so you need to get them into the bait station as quickly as possible. These termites will give off pheromones that will attract the other termites to the bait. Keep in mind that this solution only works if the termites actually go after the bait. They do not always do that. Check the station every couple of days for activity. If they do not start eating the bait after about 4 weeks, then please get back to me and I will go over your alternatives. If they do start eating the bait, make sure that you never remove partially eaten bait. Just insert a new bait cylinder when the existing bait has been deteriorated to the point where you can move it to one side and insert another bait cylinder. Oftentimes mud tubes under the house is an indication that there is a colony that is directly under the house, but this is not always the case. Sometimes the colony is still outside the footprint of the house. Therefore, it would be a good idea to also treat the perimeter of the house as well. The easiest way to do this is with termite granules. Monitoring stations are good idea when you are trying to find out if there are termites in the area that are seeking to eat your house, but they are not a good approach for treating an active infestation. So, it is wise to do a termite treatment on the outside of the building. If you are certain that these are Eastern subterranean termites, then termite granules are often a cheap and easy solution. Keep in mind that the granules do not work for drywood termites, Formosan termites, or Western subterranean termites. If you are unsure of the species, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Also, for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to use termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Hi Guy, Very useful video and great service to the global community 👍🏽. Just to add to this, in my experience Jute sacks used to pack food grains are also very much attracted to termites and even better Bait than cardboard.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You can use Jute sacks, but you are probably better off using cardboard. Here's why. Termites eat cellulose. That is why they eat wood. Cardboard contains more cellulose than Jute and it will retain moisture better, so the termites will be more attracted to cardboard. Let's face it, carboard is made out of wood. Here's the thing though. Jute will probably hold up better than cardboard under the ground. So, if you are using these stations where there is no known activity, then Jute may last a lot longer. Cardboard does not last long in the stations. That is why I tell you to only use these next to a monitoring station that has already gone off or next to mud tubes. Also, it is a good idea to "seed" the stations with a few termites that you take out of the monitoring stations that went off. The termites will give off pheromones that will attract the other termites. So, when used the way I recommend, I think cardboard would be your best bet. It's also readily available and most of us spend a lot of time trying to get rid of it anyway. Jute should also work fine though. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi, Actually the Jute sacks attracted me because of termite infection. I am in the process of building a new house. Jute sacks used for curing cement masonry work were left over in the surroundings. There were plenty of cardboard, wood pieces and dry leaves near by the Jute sacks Jute sacks attracted by termite in the first instance just after a rainy day. I assume the damp cool dark surroundings under the Jute sacks were most comfortable for termites. I got educated by you, and hence I tried this as an experiment. Lots of termite activities in the surroundings. I collected 4 Jute sacks, folded them into small size and laid them in the damp soil about 5 feet away from the foundation, added water then placed an old clay roof tiles above the sacks. 3 of the baits got infected in just 5 days. In the process I bought Bayer premise and kept it mixed in a 2 litre soda bottle with a pin hole in the cap, so that I can pour the chemical into the Jute sacks. I have seen very small size active termites grown up 4 times in 2 to 4 days and become weak and not much active after the chemical treatment. By then other creatures such as worms, different kinds of ants were also seen along with termites. After a week termites disappeared. A live tree , teak wood, after a rainy day saw mud plastered about 4 feet high from the ground. I applied the same chemical over the mud plastering and 2 days later when scratched lots of Formosan termites died inside, ants are eating a good feast of dead termite bodies. Some doubts. How close to the foundation can I try the same Bait? Also how far is it to keep the termite away from the foundation? Thanks 🙏
@@mediacity3863 I love your experimental nature. That's great. Termites love moisture and they will eat anything that has cellulose. If the termites attack Jute that you treat with Premise, then that should do the job. You can place these bait stations right next to the foundation if you like, but I would only do that if there is a mud tube going up the side of the foundation. Otherwise, I would keep them about 3 or 4 feet from the foundation. Soak that Jute really well with the Premise. The termites will think it's water and they will love it. Feed them well, especially if they are Formosan termites. Those guys can eat a lot. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy I have a question I am making a flower bed off our new deck with a log. The flower bed is about a foot and a half wide and 20 ft long. The side that is near the deck has a rock wall about 10 inches high and that will be its depth. With an inch or more stone showing. The deck is 20 ft out from the house all treated lumber on concrete pads. I know the log will over time rot away and ill replace it. Question is should I scrap the idea and use railroad ties. Thanks Tim… I like how you show how to build and controls pests
Using logs is not a good idea. You are better off using stone. If you are going to use wood, then you should use wood that is rated for ground contact. If you use railroad ties, then treat them with Bora-Care and seal them. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
I really appreciate your videos and you freely imparting your expertise. I already learned a lot from watching the ones about termites! We have lived in termite infested rented houses for the last 20 years and we have had massive damage to many things we own, including video tapes and our wedding album. I have never seen an effective termite treatment done (by various companies) in the houses we lived in over the years. Every area in the city has termites except if you are within a few hundred yards from the ocean. Question: how do I protect our new house in the Philippines? We did soil treatment against termites during construction about 7 years ago. Our house is using as little wood as possible: mostly built with steel post & beams, reinforced concrete walls & floors, inside walls are fiber cement board on metal framing with a metal roof on steel purlins and aluminum windows. Only doors, doorframes and build-in cabinets are made from wood. As an example every previous house we lived in had door frames and window frames eaten by termites. Our current house had termites during construction in spite of the soil treatment, especially since we had a construction pause for a few years due to medical issues in our family. During that time much of our coco-lumber scaffolding was eaten by termites. We found many termite ducts on the concrete walls. We removed the infested scaffolding wood when we continued construction about 18 months ago. About 6 months ago, when replacing the metal flashing of our firewall we discovered sandstone-like above-ground nest of about 8 inch diameter and 20 inch length inside an 8 inch hollow space between our concrete firewall and the neighbors concrete perimeter wall. It did not appear to have live termites in it, but we could not pull it up. We treated the 8 inch cavity between the two 40 feet long walls with termiticide and destroyed the nest. The Philippines has multiple species of termites, but about 90% of property damage in the Philippines is caused by the subterranean Coptotermes species. In the previous house we experienced thousands of flying termites swarming the house and the whole neighborhood during May, usually lasting for at least a week. I do not know if that is the same species. When moving from the termite infested rented house 3 months ago, we threw out dozens of termite eaten books in boxes and many other damaged items, but some termites might have transferred with the apparently undamaged household items in boxes which we have not all unpacked. Can termites travel with the things we moved? My main question is: how do we start? I will share a few of our current concerns. I checked the few visible termite ducts on walls that were not yet touched by construction activity. We have not seen them change or grow for over a year, so we assumed that the termites withdrew. How do I make sure they are inactive or dead? There are also still a few hundred "undamaged" pieces of coco-lumber stored on our lot near an outside wall as we may still need it when painting the outsude walls Should we remove them or treat them with termiticide? Hundreds of coco-lumber pieces we threw out have been rotting on a neighboring lot about 30 yards away from our house. Do they still pose a problem? We also have about 30 sheets 4' x 8' of brand-new 3/4th inch laminated plywood which will be used for furniture within the next 3 months. None of the new wood available locally is "treated". The wooden doors we mounted were painted with Solignum insecticide, but some pre-fabbed melamin doors cannot be treated at all. Also our doorframes were neither pressure treated nor treated with any kind of insecticide. How do we best protect our wood inside the house? The combination of moisture and fixed wood has always attracted the most termites in our observation. Therefore we are careful to keep the house and all wood as dry as possible in our humid tropical climate. During construction we added a termiticide distribution system using a network of PVC pipes in gravel under our 100 square meter concrete floor slab, because we were told the soil treatment during construction would only last for a few years. I can send you some photos, if you are interested. We have not used the system yet, as I still want to find out what is the correct termiticide to use. Which chemical would you recommend? Fipronil? We can also easily dig a trench around 3 sides of our house, except the firewall side. Should we do that? Our soil is very dense silt which feels like sandstone, and we had to use a jackhammer to excavate a small basement room during construction. It is well drained and does absorb water properly but slowly. This question has become a lot longer than I thought. I realize that we have not really done enough about the termite risk before moving in and we really need to develop a strategy. We are still working on many finishing tasks inside the house; for example the kitchen cabinets still need to be built. Therefore I really want to get things right before we add more built-in furniture to the house. We would appreciate any advice you can give us.
These are most likely drywood termites. If you are seeing frass under the cabinets, then that will confirm it. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. If you are not sure if these are drywood termites or a different species, then please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Please let me know if they are not drywood termites and I will guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
I wish I did. I would be a very rich man. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
If you are talking about the bait stations, then the pets can stand there and watch you. No need to keep them off the lawn at all. If you are spraying a pesticide on your lawn, then you need to keep them off the treated area until it is dry. Most of the time, it is dry within a couple of hours. After that, kids can play on it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I wouldn't be surprised if you have termites, but that is not alway the case. If you are renting, then it's really the owners problem, unless there is structural damage that is unsafe. Keep an eye out for mud tubes and frass. If you see anything like that, then you should make the landlord aware of it. Be well my friend.
@@tasst2674 It sounds like you are in good shape. You may want to consider to some preventive treatments for subterranean and drywood termites. I will give you links to those videos. Be well my friend. How to prevent drywood termites video: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html Termite granules video: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Utilized Taurus SC 2019 after I found dirt tunnels and problem solved. Every so often I'll soak wood scraps in Taurus mix and plug those into the yard .. in case a stray termite gets hungry.
Soaking wood with Taurus SC probably won't do much to kill off a termite colony because the Taurus SC will not penetrate the wood all that much. If you remove the wood scraps from the ground every couple of months, you can check to see if there is termite activity. It's kind of hit and miss though. If you trenched your house correctly with Taurus SC in 2019, then you should be good until 2029. If you want an easy way to monitor for termites, you can make monitoring stations and place them around your house. I don't think it's necessary to do that, if the trenching job was done well, but I will give you a link to the video on how to make them anyway, in case you just want more peace of mind. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to make termite monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
Great info Guy, thank you. Question for you: I have pavers in my courtyard (wall to wall), and I see mud tubes. Is there a solution to treat the termites other than drilling the Pavers? Thank you
You could throw a Hail Mary Pass. I will give you a procedure, but it's far from a sure thing. You can try treating the mud tubes. To do this, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot the foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites. Also, the mud tubes, are a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish treating all the mud tubes. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tubes, then your infestation has been eradicated. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using a slow kill product. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that the process didn't work. Again, this is not a sure thing. If it fails, then drilling the pavers would be the way to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Florida is termite Heaven. You should be protecting yourself from both subterranean termites and for drywood termites as well. Both species live throughout the state. The bait station is not how you do it. My recommendation is to use granules for subterranean termites and a liquid pesticide to prevent drywood termites. I will give you links to both videos. I would urge you to do this as soon as possible. Treating drywood termites requires tenting and fumigation, which is very expensive. I treat my house every year with the granules and I spray the house every 60 days for drywood termites. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well Sidney. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Termite granule video: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Any thoughts about doing pest control around fruit trees...we are in Florida and have planted some orange and grapefruit trees. Should we stay away a certain distance?
Trees will pick up anything that is in the soil and a trace amount might end up in the fruit, but it would not be anywhere near enough to be of any concern. Some people are adamant that they do not want even a microscopic amount of pesticide to get into anything that they eat, but the truth is that you could actually consume some of the finished product and not sustain a whole lot of injury. The amount that will get into the fruit, even if you spray directly around the root system, will be so minuscule, that probably you wouldn't even be able to register it by doing a lab test. So, my recommendation is always to go ahead and treat around the trees and maybe even up the trunk of the tree a couple of feet. This will kill any insects that are heading up the trees to to get into mischief. I probably would not spray the fruit directly though. A good way to treat your yard is to use a hose and sprayer and Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do that, and that will give you a link to it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose and sprayer: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
Would other wide-mouth, round plastic bottles such as Gatoraide or mayonnaise jars work as well as the soap bottles? Seems like they would be easier to bury which is the most labor intensive part.
I considered using those sorts of containers, and they could work, but I opted for the laundry detergent bottles because they are easier to open after being buried. The caps are also easier to spot. They are not hard to bury, and keep in mind that you only need to bury one. You could bury 2 or 3 to provide more bait, but just one will get it done. It doesn't take me 5 minutes to bury one of these bottles. That's a pretty fast termite treatment. Most of the time, you would be digging a trench around the entire house that is 6 inches deep. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for the reply and the information on your channel. The reason I asked is because I don’t buy any laundry detergent / fabric softener in the size you used. Got some balsa sticks from the link you provided and will be making some DIY detectors.
@@TeddyCavachon You can make these out of some PVC pipe too. Just get some PVC pipe from Lowes that is about 2 inches wide and buy a screw on cap fitting for it. Then just drill holes in the side of the pipe. You only need to make it about 8 to 10 inches long. Then you can install it with a drill and garden auger, just like the water bottle stations. They are also very easy to make. I just make them out of laundry detergent bottles because they are free. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hey Guy- thanks again for all your help and answers.... A+ Just for everybody else also I thought I'd ask to confirm. With your bait stations..... which I have one and am putting down a second just to be safe near another tree. Is it OK to unscrew them and pull out the tube to check every once and awhile for activity, or will this scare them away from going in them? Should the cardboard be resoaked again with Fipronil or just left. Much appreciated!
You should pull out the bait every couple of days to make sure that the termites are well fed. You will soon figure out how fast they are eating and adjust that accordingly. If you need to replace the bait, try to put the infested bait in the side of the bottle before inserting the new roll. You don't want the bait out for long because termites dehydrate quickly when exposed to the air. You want them to remain alive. No need to resoak the bait roll. Once is fine. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I used Taurus SC. I have a link in the description. I will provide it below for you. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Hi Guy , iv done part of the barrier of my house but i have a slop on the sides and instead of worring about the chemicals running to the low spot i was thinking about using one of those 18 or 19" long drill bits to set flower bulbs and run it down the side of the home every 6" or so and fill the holes up with the product , in your opinion, good idea or concern, thanks Guy 😊.
That is a clever idea, but it will not work well. I recommend digging the trench in 2 foot sections. If it's still too steep, then do it in 1 foot sections. Just fill that short trench up with the Taurus SC, until it is running out of the low side. Then, fill it back in and treat the backfill dirt as you are doing it. Make sure that the backfill dirt is well soaked with Taurus SC. Then dig the next section, being sure to remove about 4 inches of the previous section. It takes longer this way, but it's a sure thing. If you have not done so already, please watch my video on how to trench correctly. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench correctly: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
I thank you for your reply and help , I actually started doing little short areas on the slope and my idea came in my head so I thought I'd run it by you first, thanks alot 😀
I like the way you think. The thing is that you cannot have any breaks in the treatment and you want that 6 inch wide coverage. I love it when people think outside the box though. Be well my friend.
Greetings from Spain and thanks a lot for your videos, you gave me some hope in the middle of my termite infestation. I have some questions, it would be great if you could answer some or all of them, in any case thanks for your patience and attention. How often we should check the bait station for bait replacement? Could a month be enough or should we check more often? In your experience will the cardboard last so long underground? Can I use the same bait (carboard+fipronil) indoors? For instance puting some kind of box with it on top of a termite mud tube in the wall or in the floor or on top of wood they are eating? I see that professional stations have more slots but narrower. Although it would be some more work, could be better if I do, for instance 4 narrower windows in each side? If I find termites in a monitoring station and I am going to place a 'laundry bottle' station, should I take any special precaution to avoid disturbing termites (like making the hole in the dark :) ) I am afraid if I disturb they too much they could left the area.... In Spain (I'd say in the whole UE) this pesticide might be quite expensive (around 250$ 200ml Termidor SC opposite to 60$ 500 ml I see Taurus SC in the States) as not every seller is willing to sell to homeowners probably due to legal restrictions or perhaps is due to patent issues as I do not see other termite fipronil based products but Termidor for sale here... In any case I have some questions regarding effective use of it: -How long does it last? I mean, 200ml of product will allow to make many cardboard baits, so I can buy it with the hope that I have many years ahead of termite baits, but do you know how long it can be stored and continue to be effective? -If I prepare more cardboard baits than needed for immediate use they will dry before puting them in the ground. Would be they still effective? -With the same cost of the Termidor SC I can buy 6 professional bait stations + 750gr of hexaflumeron bait (mixed with cellulose), or 1,5kg of hexaflumeron bait. Or for half the price of the fipronil I can get 750gr of the hexaflumeron bait (for using it I should use other type of stations, I think). Taking into account high cost of fipronil, would you stick to it or would go for the hexaflumeron.? Thanks a lot for sharing and for your great DIY designs
The first thing that you need to keep in mind is that these bait stations should only be used when you have an active infestation. They are not meant to be used as a preventive measure. If you have an active termite infestation, then you should only install them where you are seeing the activity. You should check them everyday to see if the termites are actually taking the bait. The termites do not always get the memo that they are supposed to take the bait, so these do not always work. If they do take the bait, which generally they do, then you should check the station every day to see how fast they are consuming it. Sometimes the termites will eat it very quickly, and sometimes they will not. So, I would start by checking the station every day, until you get a feel for how quickly they are consuming the bait. The most important thing is you don't want them to run out of food. So make sure you check it off then enough to keep them well fed. The reason you cannot use these as a preventive measure is because the cardboard does not hold up well underground. If you are looking for monitoring stations, you can make those out of used water bottles, and you can use wood as the bait. The wood will not kill the termites, but it will alert you to their activity. After you see the activity, then you can bury one of these right next to the monitoring station. I will give you a link to that video. It is possible that a similar device like this could work indoors, but I have never tested it. The professional stations do use more slots that are narrower, but it really doesn't matter. As long as you have a sufficient number of entry ports, then the termites should be able to find the bait fairly easily. I mean, I have seen these guys find some very small cracks in foundations. Believe me when I tell you, they will find the opening. I know some people that modify the design a bit by just drilling a bunch of holes in it, and that will work as well. One of the things you need to understand about termites is that they are constantly coming and going from the food source. They are not actually colonizing there. For that reason, you don't need to worry about them returning after you remove the bait for a short period of time. Remember, you are only pulling it out for a matter of seconds and then putting it back, just to see if there are termites there and how much they are eating. One of the biggest advantages to attacking the problem this way is that you are not trenching around the entire building. If you trench around the entire building, that takes a lot of pesticide. However, you can make a liter of finished pesticide with a very small amount of fipronil. So, even if the product is very expensive, keep in mind that you will use very little of it. You can make a lot of bait cylinders with just a couple of mixed liters of the product. A container of any fipronil based pesticide should last at least a couple of years on the shelf. It is perfectly okay if the cardboard bait cylinders are dry when you put them in. In fact, it's probably better that way. The thing is though that you want to store them after they dry in a container that does not allow light in. Light will cause the product to deteriorate. I would probably make about a liter of finished pesticide and then I would soak as many of the cardboard cylinders is possible. Then I would wait to see how much bait the termites are eating before I would make any more. That way you can get an idea of how many you are going to use. Keep in mind that the termites are probably going to be dead within 12 weeks. The problem with using hexaflumuron is that it doesn't kill any termites. This product is an insect growth regulator and all it does is prevent the termites from reproducing. For that reason, it can take up to 2 years to be effective. It doesn't always take that long, but it could. That means you may need to continue using the bait for quite some time. Meanwhile, the termites may also be eating your house as well. The fipronil is an actual pesticide that will kill the termites within a matter of days. As they share it with the other termites in the colony, they will spread it around and the colony will quickly die out from the poison. The fipronil is not an insect growth regulator, but rather an actual pesticide that is fatal when ingested. That means the kill time for the colony is greatly reduced. I'm not saying that you should never use the commercial bait stations, but you should understand that they work differently. The other problem with the commercial bait stations is that they attract termites. The fipronil stations do not. Now, you may think attracting the termites is a good idea, but not if they were not there in the first place. If you are installing these as a preventive measure, then you may actually attract termites to your house that would not have been there if you had not installed these things. So, I never recommend any type of bait station for use as a preventive measure, if it has a growth regulator in it that will attract termites. You are way better off using monitoring stations that only use wood, which will not be as attractive to termites. They will only find these stations if they are very nearby. If you have an active infestation, then you could use the commercial stations, or you could use the homemade ones. Personally, I prefer the homemade stations that use fipronil, but I'm sure there are many pest controls that would debate the issue with me. You can also use imidacloprid as well. You may find that to be less expensive or more available. That is unclear where you live. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
What do you think is the best approach with what we think are subterranean termites in the boat which is sitting with a sand bank at low tide when it's not floating in sea water over a kilometre off shore
If this boat is being lifted off the sand by water every day, then it is highly unlikely that these are subterranean termites. If you live in a tropical climate, then these are more likely to be drywood termites. I am not really a boat guy, so I do not know much about boat construction. Therefore, I may not be the best person to advise you on this. I can tell you that for a house, I always recommend fumigation. I'm kind of guessing that for a boat, you would need to do that in dry dock. You can also try to spot treat the problem. If these are drywood termites, then you will most likely see frass that is located just below a tiny hole somewhere in a wood surface. You can try shooting a fipronil foam into the holes for about 5 seconds, or until the foam is coming back out at you. This will kill that individual gallery, but there could be multiple galleries around the boat. The problem could be finding them though. Sometimes the frass is pushed out in places that are not easily spotted. Like inside cabinets and that sort of thing. I hope that helps. By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. Be well my friend.
We live in Massachusetts and Taurus SC is not be allowed to be shipped here. Is there any other good alternative which would be allowed to be shipped in MA ?
You can't get much in Massachusetts. So, you need to go after the termites in a different way. Amazon should ship termite granules to you. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you will need to go out of state to get the products that you need. If you need to go out of state to buy products, New Jersey has no such laws. Just have the products shipped there to a friend or to a UPS store. It's a trip, but a lot cheaper than paying a professional. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Thanks for the great video. Question, once the cardboard has been soaked and inserted in the bottles , should it be allowed to dry before burying in the ground ?
It doesn't matter. You can do it wet if you like. If you make extras, they are only good for a couple of months though. Store them in a cool, dark place for maximum storage life. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy- I greatly appreciate your videos- I now have a serious termite problem, in the crawl space under the kitchen floor. I'm wondering, is the imidacloprid you mentioned, effective in eventually killing the entire colony, as fipronil is? I'm asking because there is air exchange, with the area under the kitchen floor, and I understand fipronil is not recommended for indoor use. It seems the imidacloprid is a bit safer- but the question is whether the termites will take it back to the colony, as they do with the fipronil- thank you so much- great videos-
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Both fipronil and imidacloprid can be used under the house for trenching or in a bait station, but this is often not the way to go. You need to inspect under the crawl space and see if there are mud tubes that are in direct contact with the ground. Please do that and let me know what you find out. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Thank you for making this video. I'm watching this because a few days ago I moved some boxes in the garage and disturbed a whole bunch of little white friends. They had come up through the cracks in the floor and eaten up the boxes. Ants attacked them and I sprayed the ones I could see. Now I'm trying to decided what to do about them.
The bait stations are only good if you know exactly where the termites are coming in and if you can install the station there. That does not seem to be the case here. There are two other options for treating subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. I have videos on how to do both options and I will place links below. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you are seeing ants that may be eating the termites, those could be carpenter ants. It is not uncommon to have both termites and carpenter ants at the same time. If the ants are big and black, then that is what they are. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat them. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html Video on how to treat carpenter ants: ruclips.net/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k2_1_4&=&crid=38N4G81Z51T3L&=&sprefix=term
Thank you for taking the time to give a detailed reply. After watching your videos I think I am going to go the granule route. I'm glad you specified how long it would take. Knowing myself I would've waited a couple of weeks and assumed it didn't work.Water absorption shouldn't be a problem we get heavy rains and the ground never has standing water. Is it worthwhile to try to put some granules in the garage floor cracks from above? Should I try to treat the ants and termites at the same time? This is a house in E Central IL.@@GuysPestSolutions
@@Troy_Built To treat the cracks in the garage floor, I recommend using Termidor Form. Just shoot the foam into the crack until it is coming back out at you. When it starts to come back out, then move to another section of the crack. The foam expands to get into every little crevice in there. You can do both the termite and the ant treatments at the same time. Be well my friend. Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
So I have ants that shoot out of window frames and bathroom seams (newly done at a hefty price) so I've been using a puffer inside and outside up underneath the siding of diatomaceous earth hoping it does similar to borax. So far so good. But I do see black flying strange things but the odd name I cannot recall that I was told they were! I've been trying to have Terminex get rid of for 3 years-ugh. Once you get something its tough to get rid of. This is a great idea for outside that you have! I've always believed I have termites, too much wood.
The best product for scorpions is Onslaught Fastcap. Mix it according to label directions in a battery operated tank sprayer and spray up the side of the building 36 inches and out away from the building 48 inches. Be sure to soak the area where the building meets the ground. Also apply this on your patios, stairs, sidewalks, and that sort of thing. In other words, you want to apply it any place you frequently walk. This will stop the scorpions from getting in the building or hanging out on surfaces where you frequently walk. Next, you should apply it on all ornamental plants around the building as well, being sure to treat the dirt under the plants. I recommend applying it every 60 days. Look for obvious penetrations in the side of the house and treat them with D-Fense dust. Just buy a duster, fill it halfway with the dust, and puff the dust into any cracks or crevices that you find. After treating, it is a good idea to caulk these penetrations as well. Always make sure that you hang up all your clothes. You should never leave clothes laying on the floor. Clothes that are waiting to be washed should be kept in a sealed hamper. Shoes should be kept off the floor on some sort of a shoe rack. After you finish the exterior treatment, you should check the house for scorpions. Look under appliances, in closets, under the bed, and that sort of thing. Be sure to check shoes, curtains, or anyplace these guys may be hiding. To assist in your search, you can use a black light. All scorpions will glow green when exposed to a black light. I hope that helps. Be well Janet. Onslaught FastCap Spider and Scorpion Insecticide: www.domyown.com/onslaught-fastcap-spider-and-scorpion-insecticide-p-2579.html D-Fense dust: www.domyown.com/dfense-deltamethrin-dust-p-2428.html Duster: www.domyown.com/bellow-hand-duster-p-106.html
Wow, Thank you for such a thorough answer. I will definitely look into these products suggested. I do hunt/kill with a black Light. Not my favorite thing to do... 😮 Thank you again for taking the time to respond. I truly appreciate it. Janet
Yes. The products are identical in every way except for the price. Taurus SC is cheaper. Other than that, no difference at all. I hope that helps. Be well my Jennifer.
amazing. i just sent u a really long email asking u for your help or opinions BUT NOW i think i may have found my answers after exploring your channel further.
If I have not answered your email yet, I will most likely get to it today. I get a lot of email. Sometimes as many as 100 in a day. Mostly termites, cockroaches, and mice. I answer them all, but it can take me a day or two sometimes to respond if I get a lot of email in one day. I answer them in the order in which they are received, so you will get a response. I try to answer all email within 48 hours. I don't always make it, but I do my very best. I promise that you will get a response in a timely manner. I take all questions very seriously, so I take a lot of time providing a detailed answer. Everyone gets the same service from me, so it can take some time. I will stay with you though until you have the problem resolved, and I will do my very best not to let you down. Be well my friend.
i live in iowa and have lots of tree roots under driveway and up to my house i notice lots of termites in ground and around foundation what can i do are they just after the tree roots have not noticed in house but want to prevent that fronm happening also noticed in the yard around some man whole covers lots of tree roots
Most likely the termites will not just settle for the roots. They may well be in your home already without you knowing it. I will do my very best to assist you with this. For starters, please do a thorough inspection of your home for termites. I have a video that will show you how to do it correctly. Please get back to me and let me know if you find any termites in the house. I hope that helps. Be well Misty. Video on how to inspect your home for termites: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
You have three different species of termites where you live and they each get treated differently. You could have drywood termites, Formosan termites, or a Eastern subterranean termites. So, you need to start by determining the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. The video you watched is for making bait stations. These can only be used for subterranean species and if you know exactly where the termites are located. The good news is that you live in Florida, so you can sometimes treat subterranean termites for less than $100. So, get back to me with the species. Again, if you cannot figure it out, then let me know and I will assist you further. Be well Kerri. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
How did you know what kind of termites you have? How do you set the bait stations? In the same hole as the monitor? How near the house do I need to be?
I have a video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link to it. Install the monitoring stations 4 feet apart around the entire house and about 3 to 4 feet from the side of the house. You just don't want water running onto the monitors from the roof. If a monitor is showing activity, then install one of these bait stations directly next to the monitor. Check the bait station every day to make sure that the termites are taking the bait. Check daily and replace the bait as needed. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
This is not the best way to go about treating Formosan termites. It can work, but these guys are bad. I mean, very bad. So, I would be way more aggressive when treating them. If you don't know if you have them, then please watch my video on how to inspect for termites. You will learn exactly how to find them. If you do have them, I also have a video on how to treat them. I will give you the links to both videos. Be well Angelina. Video on how to inspect for termites: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Is it possible to have Formosan and another species? I live in southeastern Louisiana. I know I have termites in the yard. Last swarming season, May-June, I had a bug zapper out for mosquitoes in my front yard. I had it close to, almost on the ground. The termites went wild! Coming out of the ground overloading the zapper. Zapper was smoking with all the termites. This was about 8-10 feet from the house. Would the trap work with Formosan termites at all?
Most species are attracted to light when they swarm. It is possible to have more than one species. You need to look at the swarmers to determine the species. If they all look alike, then you probably have just one species. Formosan termites are very common where you are. If you have an infestation of Formosan termites, please watch my video on how to treat a Formosan termite infestation. I would not use a bait to do it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat a Formosan termite infestation: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much! I will be watching your video. Probably have to wait until May to compare a few termites. I can check the state university ag center website to see if there are other species, too. I know there are carpenter ants around, too. Thanks again for the help!
I am not surprised that you have carpenter ants. It is very common to have both carpenter ants and termites at the same time. That is because carpenter ants like to eat termites. Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood. They just like the tunnel through it, and they use it to establish satellite galleries. The termites make things very easy for them. Not only do they make a handy meal for the ants, but the termites do most of the excavation of the wood. So, it's a pretty sweet deal for the carpenter ants. Unfortunately, the carpenter ants do not eat enough of the termites to stop the infestation. They will slow it up a bit though, so you do not want to treat the carpenter ants until you eliminate the termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy, Would you recommend using Nisus Bora-Care for soaking the cardboard instead of Taurus SC? Which in your opinion is better? Thank you very much for the very informative and helpful videos.
Bora-Care works much differently than Taurus SC. Bora-Care kills mechanically, so the termites need to eat it for them to die. Therefore, it can take some time to work because, who knows when the queen or other termites are going to eat that food? The Taurus SC works on the nervous system and it is a contact killer. So, the termites do not need to eat it for it to kill them. They will bring back the contaminated food and they will also spread the Taurus SC around to the other termites by simply moving about the colony. That means you are killing them two different ways. So, the Taurus SC is going to eliminate the colony much faster. That means you will use much less bait too. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, i want to prevent termites at my house but I would like to use bait stations so I can use a smaller amount of toxic chemicals. Can I soak wooden rods in fipronil and pound them into the ground around my house? Do you think that would work. Thanks
I'm sorry for the delay in responding. I am on vacation at the moment, and I am on a cruise, so I don't always have internet and often I am doing vacation stuff. My wife and I have not had a vacation in over 13 years, so it was time. I will be home on June 11, so I can answer any additional questions you may have at that time. I don't think that will work very well. The pesticide is not going to soak into the wood well enough and you will be unable to monitor how much bait is being eaten. You should also know that Taurus SC (fipronil) or termite granules (imidacloprid) are not all that toxic. In fact, they are not much more hazardous than common laundry detergent. Both have a signal word of caution, which is the least hazardous assignment that a chemical can get. The truth is that Taurus SC and the termite granules are safe enough for kids to play on after they dry. This is the 21st century and we now have 21st century pesticides. They are not the hazardous pesticides that we used to use in the 20th century. Those were banned in the late 1990's. So, if it's prevention you seek, then termite granules are usually the best choice. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider just using monitoring stations. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
A few years ago I used Spectracide Terminate Termite Detection and Killing Stakes, that seems to be the same concept as to what you are showing. I most definitely have termites, but what I noticed actually in the traps eating the cardboard was these very skinny red worms that were able to get through the tiny holes in the traps. Since then I've been reluctant to use cardboard traps. I figure softwoods would be better in my case. I figure only termites and not worms would eat the bait. But cardboard is free and so easy to work with!
The problem with the Spectracide Termite Stakes is that ants will eat the bait, and so they are always popping up, even if you do not have termites. Also, there's not enough bait in them to kill off a termite colony. Therefore, those things are pretty much useless. If you like, you may want to watch my video on the subject. I will give you a link to it. The only kind of insect that travels underground, that will eat wood, are termites. That is why I use wood in the monitoring stations. So, if one of these things goes off, then you most likely have termites. You still need to pull it out of the ground to make sure that the monitoring station did not malfunction. Let's face it, these things are made out of used water bottles, so it is possible for the stick to move a little bit and the orange dot to disappear, even though there are no termites. So when you see the dot disappear, pull the station up to make sure that there is activity in it. If there is, then put that monitoring station back in the ground and go ahead and treat for termites by installing a bait station right next to it. You can use the Advance bait stations or you can make your own. I now have a video on how to make them yourself, and they work a lot faster than the Advance system. The problem with using cardboard is that it doesn't last long underground. It's fine for killing termites, but not for monitoring for them. So, I used cardboard in the bait station, but not in the water bottle station. The only reason I use it for part of the water bottle station is as a spacer to make assembly easier. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on Spectracide Termite Stakes: ruclips.net/video/UDzg-1lpynA/видео.html Video on how to make termite bait stations: ruclips.net/video/r05Z-aUJehw/видео.html
IGRs like Novaluron can take up to two years to kill off a termite colony. That is because it only stops the termites from reproducing and workers can live up to two years. It usually works sooner than that, but it can still take months to fully eliminate the colony. Taurus SC actually kills the termites, including the queen. The termites will carry it back to the colony and share it with the other termites. This will take out the entire colony within about 12 weeks. So, for me, I think killing off the colony as fast as possible is a good idea. Novaluron will be effective, but Taurus SC will get the job done a lot faster. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy, I was wondering if we could use the Gatorade or similar bottles to make these bait stations with the cardboard and termiticide, instead of the laundry detergent bottles? We trenched around the building already comma however it is an 18 unit building eight and I too straight and the perimeter is approximately 385 linear feet, so we will need quite a few of them. We did find termites in ane empty first floor unit. The building is slab on grade, no basement.
You can really use any kind of bottle that you want to make a bait station. The reason I chose laundry detergent bottles is because they have a very wide opening on the top. The wider the opening is, the more bait you can put in the station. That being said, the bait stations are not intended to be a shotgun approach for termites. You should only use them in areas where you know exactly where the termites are located. For example, if you use monitoring stations that have no poison in them, and one of them goes off, then that would be a good place to use one of the bait stations. Another good place to use them would be if you see mud tubes going up the outside of the building. Installing one or two of the bait stations directly in front of the mud tubes may kill off the entire infestation. Since you have a very lengthy perimeter, and you have only seen the termites in one area, then I would probably focus my treatment and that location. Now, you said that you trenched around the building. If these are subterranean termites, then that should have taken care of them, if you did it correctly. So, the first thing you need to do is to make sure these are actually subterranean termites and not a species that behaves differently. Before you proceed further, I recommend that you tell me where you live. Location matters, because different species live in different areas around the world or different areas of the United States. Some species will fly to your house and they don't go in the ground at all. There are also subterranean termites that have the ability to colonize in your home. They do attack from the ground, but once in your home, they have the ability to take up residence there. That means they need to be treated much differently than a more common species of subterranean termites. So, where you live matters a lot. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. After watching this video, I think you will have a good idea about what you are dealing with. If you did the trenching yourself, then you may want to watch my video on how to properly trench for subterranean termites, to make sure that you did it correctly. If you did, and if this is a common variety of subterranean termites, then that should be doing the job for you. If it isn't, then something went wrong, and we need to get to the bottom it. If you like, you can install monitoring stations, instead of bait stations, around the entire building. Monitoring stations do not kill termites, but they will tell you where you're located. You can certainly make these out of Gatorade bottles. I'm guessing you already watched my video on how to make monitoring stations out of water bottles, but I will give you a link to the video just in case you didn't. By installing monitoring stations, you have a good chance of pinpointing exactly where the termites are getting in. Armed with that information, you can better pinpoint your treatment to the exact area where it will be needed. I recommend placing the monitoring stations ever 4 feet apart around the entire building. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to properly trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html Video on how to make termite monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
Thanks for responding Guy. I did watch your video on trenching and I think that we did a fairly good job. I did purchase some commercial bait stations and I plan on putting them around the unit that we found the live termites and damage. I would like to make my own and put them around the remainder of the building. I live in Southeastern Massachusetts and I have a video of the only live ones that we found. And they do look like subterranean termites.
@@johnpalmieri624 If you live in Massachusetts, then you only have one species of subterranean termites. 99% of the time, trenching around the building like you did should end the problem. The only time this would not be the case is if the colony is very close to the building, and part of that colony is actually under the building. When this happens, then trenching is not going to work, and the bait stations are probably not going to work either, because the termites are going straight up from the colony to the infested area. This can happen sometimes when you have a building that is on a slab. I didn't see where you told me how long ago you did the trenching, but it can take about 12 weeks to be effective. That is because the termites need time to take the pesticide back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Taurus SC is a slow kill product, so it will take a few weeks before you will see the results. If you did the trenching longer than 12 weeks ago, then it is possible that you have a colony under the slab. The best way to treat that would be to use a spot treatment. So let me go over how to do that with you. If the trenching was done less than 12 weeks ago, then I recommend that you wait to see if that trenching was effective before you do anything else. To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for the product I like to use. Drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in a wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then also drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. Since you have a slab building, then you may find them going up the outside of the building on the slab and even the side of the building. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites. Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. This is the same amount of time that it takes if the pros to it too. You can still install the monitoring stations if you like, but I would not use my homemade bait stations at this point. If the spot treatment fails, then you can try to install commercial bait stations near the location of the infestation. My stations do not attract termites, but the commercial ones do. So, the hope would be to draw them away from the building with the bait. This does not always work, but it is worth a shot if the spot treatment fails. Place the stations about every 8 feet apart along the wall where you have the activity about 3 or 4 feet from the building. I will give you a link to them. Don't use the wood that comes with them. Change that out to the bait immediately. Again, only do this if the spot treatment fails. Keep in mind that the commercial bait stations are slow. Very slow. So it will take some time for them to work. Check the station every few days. If you see termites eating the bait, then you could install one of my bait stations next to the commercial one, hoping that they will also eat my bait, which is a much faster kill. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html Bait stations: www.domyown.com/advance-termite-bait-station-p-148.html Bait: www.domyown.com/trelona-compressed-termite-bait-box-cartridges-p-17220.html
Thanks so much for responding again. Would you happen to have an email that I can send a diagram of the building to so you can get a better idea of what we found and where we found it? The termites definitely came up from inside the building.
@@johnpalmieri624 You can email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please remind me of you RUclips name and what is going on. I get a lot of email and most of it is about termites, so I have a lot of termite issues going on. I don't want to confuse your case with someone else. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy. Ive had little reddish colored termites flying around my kitchen night around 10pm everynight. I have looked and theu seem to be drywood termites. After i sprinkle the termite killer around, i dont see them. Is it actually killing drywoods? Termite killing has been a mystery to me. I dont undertand fully, how they operate. Ive watched your vids and theyve been helpful. I live in FL btw too.
This does sound like drywood termites. Please watch my video on how to identify termites species. Don't worry. It's not as difficult as you may think. It's actually pretty easy. That video is going to show you what frass looks like. It will also show you what kick out holes look like as well. The termites you are seeing are called alates or swarmers. They are the reproductives that are looking to start a new gallery. If these do turn out to be drywood termites, then you need to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. Please get back to me if these are not drywood termites and I will guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termites species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks so much for all that Guy. Being in Florida, on the coast, unfortunately don't have a crawl space. I have gotten good at looking for evidence of them. I think I was getting confused by exactly how they operate. It seemed like after I put some termite granules down, they'd stop swarming. I had no clue whether that was just coincidental or not. I have a bay window that had a soft spot in the wall, I tore the drywall down and the studs were gone. I think this has been going on for a very long time. Several years ago, I'd get the frass at the baseboards, but everyone thought it was ants bringing dirt in. Boy was I wrong.... I don't have the money to fumigate as is it a 2 story house and they want 8k+ to do that, on average. Now based on what you've said, trying to find the galleries may be impossible, so I may have no choice. I've heard from people that said termites were an issue in thay neighborhood years ago. It was built in the mid 80, and mostly all wood frame homes. I do sincerely appreciate you taking the time to respond with a lengthy and informative message. I will watch the rest of your videos I may have not seen yet. Thanks again!
@@yeeebayeeba4268 Always my pleasure to assist. If you are seeing significant damage, then make sure that these guys are not Formosan. See if you can dig out a specimen with a red head and have a look at it. Put it in a jar and hang on to it. Try to catch one alive and let it die a natural death in the jar. You don't always see mud tubes with these guys. Also, check the attic for mud tubes. It takes a long time for drywood termites to do significant damage, so that would make me nervous. Formosan swarmers are also a reddish color. You are probably right that the infestation has just been going on a long time, but it's best to make sure. I just want you to be okay. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions they are red, they just don't seem to have that diamond shaped head. It's more round and cylindrical sahl3d body. There is significant damage. Tubes inside the walls, just never saw them outside... Thanks so much.
????? What use for bait????? I love this video but Ive listened to it twice and dont see or hear about the bait used??? Im older gal and havent done this before. My area is known for being a high termite area. I assume there's certain kinds of bait. What bait do you suggest ?
You need to make the bait yourself as I show in the video. You are basically rolling up cardboard and soaking it in a termiticide. Termites like to eat cardboard, so that is the bait. Since it is treated with fipronil, the termites will take that back to the colony and share it with the other termite, thereby killing the entire colony. You can only use these if you have an active infestation, and you have pinpointed exactly where the termites are located. If you just want to find the termites or monitor for them, then you need to build monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Be well my friend. Video on how to build termite monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
If I already have termites I see under a wood block, can I just but those stakes and put it nearby in the grass, then remove the block? I wouldn't need bait stations, right?
@@kristicarter7213 If you are seeing them in a wood block, then you can either make the stations yourself or you can use the Advance system. The difference is that the ones you make yourself work a lot faster. The Advance system uses an insect growth regulator that can take up to 2 years to work. The homemade stations will do the same job in about 12 weeks. Either way, leave the wood in place and install the bait station directly next to the infested wood. Check the bait station every day to see if the termites are taking the bait. If they do, then you are golden. Just keep replacing the bait as needed. Check it every day to make sure they don't run out of bait. You can also dig a trench around the infested wood that is 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep and pour a lot of Taurus SC into the trench, mixed 0.8 oz per gallon of water. Then, soak the backfill with the Taurus SC mixture as you are filling it in. You can install the bait station in that trench while you are filling it in. This way, you can't miss. The colony will be dead within 12 weeks, regardless of the bait you use. I hope that helps. Be well Kristi. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
That's hard question to answer because it depends on so many factors. For example, the size of the colony, the species, soil conditions, the number of other food sources, distance from the colony, weather conditions, and so forth. The important thing is that the termites find the bait. If they start eating the bait, and you keep adding bait as needed, then their days are numbered. Don't ever remove partially eaten bait. You just want to add new bait and never remove old bait. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
You bet. I recommend treating your entire yard and the side of your house. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it. Be well my friend. ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions oh,well thank you anyways🤗. I quit my job back in 2020 because of the mask mandate. Strong pesticides won't work for me. Have a wonderfull day and thank you for your time🤲
Guy, I've found a termite nest in the back yard under a stack of old timber. Taurus sc is not available in Australia. Would something like Termidor liquid which has 100% Fipronil works using the cardboard roll/s method? Can I just placed the baited, rolled up cardboard directly under some of the timber planks those things are eating right now? Thank you.
You could do that, but it would be a better idea to use the timber that they are eating against them. To do this, get a can of spray paint and spay the perimeter on the ground around the timber that is about 30 CM wider than the footprint of the timber. Then move the timber outside of this marked perimeter. Remove about 15 CM of dirt to create a pit that covers the entire area within the marked perimeter. Mix the Termidor according to label directions for termites and soak the pit really well with it. Cover the pit with 8 CM of dirt and soak the entire area using a watering can. The same thing you would use to water plants. Finish filling in the pit and soak it again with the Termidor mixture. Then, simply put the timber back where it was originally. If this is a very large area, then you can do it in sections. Since termites are subterranean, they will be returning to the underground colony fairly often to bring food back to the queen and other termites that do not leave the colony. They will have no choice but to pass through the Termidor, so they will bring that back with them and share it with the other termites. The entire colony will be wiped out within about 12 weeks. That timber will now be safe from termites, if you leave it there, for about 5 to 10 years. I know this is a lot more work, but it will be way more effective. You see, the termites are coming up from the ground, so they may not take the bait in the bait station because you will probably not place it in their path. It is possible that they will take the bait, and if they do, the bait stations should work, but I would use several of them around the perimeter. Digging the pit is a sure thing though. If you like, you could try the bait stations, and if they don't take the bait, then you can always dig the pit. If they do take the bait, then make sure that you keep them supplied with bait until they stop eating it in all the stations. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Do you suppose you could send me photos of all sides of the structure? I really need to see it to make recommendations. You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Be well my friend.
I don't even have a termite problem, but enjoyed the info and how it was presented. I feel like I actually gained a few IQ points from this. Thank you Sir.
I don't think Borax will work well, but it is something you can try, if you cannot get anything else. I would first try to buy an insect growth regulator like Novaluron, (S)-Hydroprene, Pyriproxyfen, or any other IGR that you can find. Some countries in the EU may allow unlicensed people to purchase small amounts of IGRs for use in their garden. These are still considered to be pesticides, but they are extraordinarily safe, so some countries may allow you to purchase it. This is the same stuff that they put in termite bait stations. It can take up to 2 years to work, but it does work. You may also be able to purchase commercial bait stations that contain an IGR. If you cannot find anything else, then you can experiment with Borax, boric acid, or even diatomaceous earth. If you use this sort of stuff, then soak the cardboard prior to rolling it up because these are basically powders that may not penetrate through rolled up cardboard. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions If I could bother you again would Diflubenzuron work? It works by inhibiting the production of chitin and seems to still be available within the EU.
@@allthingsmalta6487 Don't worry. You are never bother. It is always my pleasure to serve you. Diflubenzuron is what we call an insect growth regulator or IGR. Simply put, IGRs work by interrupting the insect's ability to reproduce. If they cannot reproduce, then they will eventually die out. Most termite bait stations use an IGR. The problem with them though is that they can take up the two years to work because a termite worker can live up to two years. However, they often do work faster than that, but not as fast as if you use a pesticide that will act on the insect's nervous system, like fipronil. All of this is a long way to say that diflubenzuron will work, albeit somewhat slower than what I was suggesting. If diflubenzuron is available, you may also be able to purchase ready-made bait stations, because they essentially contain the same type of active ingredient. Purchasing such a bait station that is commercially available may provide a better bait system than the one you make yourself. That is to say, they may contain a lot more bait than my stations, so you won't need to replace the bait as often. However, if you cannot find one that is commercially available, then I think using diflubenzuron would probably work for you in one of my bait stations. Keep in mind though that I have not tested it. Nevertheless, I see no reason why it would not work, if you keep them fed. Since this is going to be a slow process, you need to make sure that they do take the bait in the first place, and that you keep the bait station supplied with bait for as long as it takes to wipe out the colony. Just based on everything I know about termites, this should get it done. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I noticed that you sprayed the homemade detector (in the plastic bottle) with Termidor Foam Termiticide to turn it into a bait station. Instead of soaking the cardboard with Taurus could you use the foam instead, just spray into the rolled up cardboard when making these? Would it make any difference. I have termites in my back yard and have seen them, they ate part of my back fence but so far have not seen them in the house :( I'm asking that because I can't seem to find the liquid Taurus SC unless its marketed under a different name
I found a 20 oz bottle of Firponil so I went ahead and ordered. I debated whether to call my pest control company again (they had been out last fall, and sprayed but obviously missed this). I have no idea how old the fence damage is, but when they sprayed they did not find any live termites. Have been here 25 years and never seen a termite until yesterday. They were in stump full of holes far in the backyard by the fence, concealed under vines. Had to break a branch off to see them. I just subscribed. Casting my lots with Guy! The bait solution you gave seems more effective and the cardboard bait traps seem to make a lot of sense.
The foam is not a good choice for this application. Please tell me where you live and I will see if I have a good alternative for you. You should inspect the house for termites. Please watch my video on how to do a termite inspection. I cover everything in that video to do it right. Be well my friend. Video on how to do a termite inspection: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
Okay. I'm glad you found the fipronil. One of the bait stations is a great solution for the fence. Just place the station in front of where the damage is being done. If you can dig out a few termites from the fence, put them in the bait station. They will release pheromones that will attract the other termites to the bait. Just keep feeding them and that should kill off the colony within 12 weeks. Thank you so much for subscribing. Please pass me along to others. I love to help. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks for answers appreciated and I have told some people about your page. BTW I saw your video about the Bayer Bioadvanced granules with Imidacloprid. I found this also for around $60. Are these granules a game changer for termites? You seemed to think they work much faster. I'm fairly certain I have Eastern Subterranean as I'm in Central Illinois. Would using both be redundant, or which approach is better? I was thinking of the station by the stump, and then mixing the granules in a trench around the house just in case.. Though I'm a little confused about your comment regarding this stuff possibly attracting termites to your home? Or did I misunderstand. You were right about the mixup, I had to go to three hardware stores and only one had the Imiacloprid. They all had the same label.
@@c.rutherford The granules are a game changer because they work about 95% of the time and you do not need to trench. However, for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. If you know exactly where the termites are, then the bait stations can also be a good option. You must place them at mud tube locations or monitoring station locations where the monitor has activity. The granules do not work faster than trenching or bait stations, but they are way faster to use and less expensive too. All of these options take about 12 weeks to kill off an entire colony. You are correct that you probably have Eastern subterranean termites. Two methods of treatment won't hurt, but you cannot trench and use granules at the same time. You need to either trench or use granules, but you can add the bait station as an insurance policy. None of these methods attract termites. If you email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com, I will give you the treatment for the stump. Just ask for the tree stump treatment. I cannot provide it here because RUclips will delete it, along with the rest of this response. I don't know why they do that. You can buy the correct granules from Amazon for around $47. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k0_1_9&=&crid=2ULLC4JSQYNFR&=&sprefix=termite+g
Hi, Guys pest solution ： Thank you for sharing your profession with us! I have a puppy, and my backyard has lots of gophers. What can I do to evict them and the spiders? Hope you can make a new video to help. Thanks again 😊😊
The spiders are actually pretty easy. All you need to do is treat your yard and that will end the spider problem. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it. Just keep the puppy off the yard until all the pesticide is dry. Gophers are another matter. Normally, I would tell you to either trap them or poison them, but that puppy can get into trouble with both of those things. Therefore, you may want to get a little bit more creative than that. There are some people that swear by gassing them with something like a lawn mower engine. I've never tried this myself, but I suspect that it would work pretty well. The only thing is that there are also moles in your neighbor's yard, and so they will probably be back. Of course, this would be true regardless of the treatment method you select. Since I have never done this, I do not have a video on it, but I took a look to see if there was a decent video out there that you could follow. I found a couple of them and I will give you links to them. Basically, it involves hooking some type of a hose to the exhaust of a lawn mower or other small engine, and then sticking the hose into one of the tunnels that was created by the moles. The exhaust fumes find their way throughout the system and it kills the moles. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html Mole gassing videos: ruclips.net/video/gQ4zAeTvqYc/видео.html ruclips.net/video/zIWOGvS0Pno/видео.html
Any ideas for severe roach infestation from guests prior? Thanks, in advance. I live in Florida. Oh, there's more than 1 kind of roach & I have a pest control service.
I would be happy to help. I am not familiar with the word "Orior." Was that a misspelling or just a word I have not seen before? There are lots of species of roaches in the world. I believe there are about 55 species in the US alone. As a pest controller, I'm sure you are familiar with the main ones. Germans are the worst by far and I do have a video on how to totally eliminate them. If you decide to use this procedure, I recommend that you concentrate on businesses. You can render a restaurant, hotel, or even an entire hospital permanently roach free. This is an expensive service because of the time involved in doing it. Most homeowners will not pay for it, but you will be amazed at how many businesses will pay big money to be permanently roach free. My video focuses on homes, but it's the same procedure for any building. You can become very rich doing this one service. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. German roach video: ruclips.net/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/видео.html
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
You can use any pesticide that contains fipronil or imidacloprid. The key is that it needs to be a slow kill product. Those are the only two that I know of that will give the termites time to take the pesticide back to the colony and share it with the other termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions wow,,,im happy you noticed me! Hahaha well thank you for the reply,,i will search for that chemical ,,,,,,im hoping it will really solve my pest problem on termites in my nipa hut,,thank you again brother,,,,,,,im looking for more tips and advice
@@c.rutherford That is correct, but not everybody can get it. Sometimes I need to recommend a different supplier or a different product. For example, if you live in NY you can't get anything there. It makes not sense, but some states don't want you doing your own pest control. I'm pretty sure that there is money changing hands somewhere to block safe products from consumers. Next they will probably be banning paint and you will need to hire someone to paint your house. It's a real shame. Be well my friend.
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
You bet. Please watch my video on how to treat carpenter ants. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat carpenter ants: ruclips.net/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/видео.html
Formosan termites are different because they can colonize in your home. Please watch my video on Formosan termites. These guys are very destructive, so you need to go nuclear on them. These bait stations will help, but I wouldn't rely solely on them with Formosan termites. Be well my friend. Video on Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Hey Guy, new subscriber. Extremely poor, disabled, single father with two young challenged adults, extremely limited resources, with a very bad infestation of bed bugs! Any suggestions? 🙏
Bed bugs are bad. Very bad. The key to treating them is to treat everything. I will give you a link to a video that was done by Solutions Pest and Lawn. They have the right idea, but they don't go far enough. Do one room at a time and leave nothing untreated. Treat the floors as well, so they don't go from room to room. Try to stay out of rooms that were treated until the entire living space has been treated. It is easy to bring them back into a room that was already treated. I wish I could say that this is cheap to do, but it will probably cost a couple of hundred dollars. You can't go on living with bed bugs though, so you need to do it. Be well my friend. ruclips.net/video/9aH1eXf449U/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks Guy for responding. I'll check out the link that you sent me and see what I can do with the limited resources that I have. I can't rely on my two young adult kids living with me that I'm responsible for. Neither one of them has any resources coming in whatsoever, and as much as I love them, the good Lord knows, because of their physical and psychological issues, I would have an easier time pulling hen's teeth, then getting them to help with, well, basically anything. LOL😂
Bed bugs...I lived in an apartment building and my nextdoor neighbor had bed bugs and they crawled over to my apartment via the outlets and vents. I bagged everything I owned after washing everything out of the house. Then I threw away shagged carpets. Then I took my electronics out of the apartment and they took a heater and heated my apartment and all the apartments to 140 degrees for 4 hours. It killed everything! I hope you get rid of them soon. The itching is horrible, use salt and water and rub into bites, makes them less itchy!
@@natureboy6410I am so sorry that you are dealing with the adult kids that aren't helping. I can relate somewhat. My son is 34 and he has been disabled all his life. He cannot work and he requires a lot of care. I need to shave him, shower him, brush his teeth, make all his meals, make sure he takes his meds, and all that sort of thing. My wife and I care for my grandson 12 hours a day too. He is two and a half and hasn't spoken his first word yet. We suspect that he too is very disabled. So, it's hard. Still, you must play the hand you are delt. I just take it one step at a time. What else can you do? So, hang in there my friend and be well.
@@zoebear1992 Heat can work, but it needs to be done correctly. There are some companies that are very good at it. You got lucky that you found one. I'm glad that worked out for you. Be well my friend.
No. This only works for termites. Please watch my video on how to treat ants. I will give you a link. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat ants: ruclips.net/video/arPeidADLpY/видео.html
So glad I found your channel. Carpenter ants brought me to your site. I hired and fired 2 professional local companies as they didn’t solve my problem over a 1.5 year stint. I dug in, learned a lot, and have waged my own war on the resident ants on my property. Thank you for your service sir.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I used food grade DE (Diatomaceous earth) and got rid of carpenter ants fast. It's my go to pesticide. Try it.
This man is an amazing gift to us all 😊
I agree!
So far so good here in Tx, thanks for helping me in the past,
I am commenting just because I want to support your channel!
God bless you Guy!
Thank you Guy, you are a blessing, I have been learning from you, from Abilene Texas with Thanksgiving, the Churches of Christ Salute you romans 16:16
That is so kind of you to say. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Fantastic information thank you very much
This is brilliant! Efficient, practical and affordable! Thanks!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@@kurtm.7494 If it does not make sense to you, then don't do it. It seems a lot easier to me than digging a trench around the entire house that is six inches deep and six inches wide, but that's just me. It's true that burying one of these bottles does take me as much as 5 minutes, but I find that it beats the entire days work of trenching. Again, that's just me. Everyone is certainly free to do whatever they wish. I'm just offering the alternative. Be well my friend.
I like how you try to answer all the questions even though that the video is old. You are very kind. New subscriber here !
Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Wow! This is amazing. Wish I would have seen this 2 years ago. The cost was $2,600. Thank you.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Watched the video a bit mesmerised, then I realised there are no termites in my country.
Then I watched the rest of the video.
This is an example of a person that can read a telephone book, and be interesting .😊
Thank you so much for those kind words. That is one of the nicest things anyone has ever said to me. Very much appreciated. You must live in a cold climate. There are a number of countries that do not have termites, but they all have the cold in common. If you live in a warm climate that does not have termites, then you need to adopt me. Lol. Be well Jannette.
@@GuysPestSolutions I’m from the Netherlands. According to Wikipedia We and Belgium don’t have termites, yet. Sometimes some invasive ones are spotted. I checked to be sure, you never know with termites, isn’t it?
@@jannetteberends8730 I guess it depends upon who you ask. I don't think there are any native species in the Netherlands or Belgium, but it is my understanding that you now have invasive species of subterranean termites. Naturally, they appear to have come from the United States. So sorry about that. They do not do well in those climates though, so they are not considered to be a serious problem. You will most likely never encounter them. So, not something to be concerned with. Lucky you. Be well Jannette and thanks again for watching.
Thanks for sharing this brilliant termite treatments that are cost-effective. Blessings.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Great video Guy, and you seem a genuinely nice man to listen to and probably to work with on termites. I don't even have them and I enjoyed listening to you tell us about this solution. Thank you.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for your informative videos…watched the one about the monitoring stations and how you planted them…still have a minute and a half to go but so far you haven’t demonstrated how we’re supposed to plant the bait station…hope it’s coming!
Another great video. The instructions are so simple the way you explain it and the demonstration on how to bury the bait station tops off the video perfectly. Maybe you could make a video on how I can keep the doves from making nests on top of the hurricane motor box above my front door! They are so messy! Ha Ha Ha!!! Thanks Guy for assisting in another way to eliminate subterranean termites.
Thanks for watching Chris. I always love your feedback. Please send me a photo of that hurricane motor box and I may be able to assist you with the problem. It's one of those things that I need to see. ❤️
😊😊😅
maybe a rubber snake will help
Great video thanks for posting. VERY thorough and your delivery is perfectly paced--most are too fast and willy-nilly. with info. Nice library you have too.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks again for another great video. I'm in AZ and I had subterranean termites in my home and had tubes hanging from my ceiling. I drilled the ceiling everywhere I saw a tube and sprayed into the attic, and I haven't seen another sign of termites in well over a year now. I also treated around my house per your recommendations, and I'm working on making several monitoring stations.
How can I tell if I have Formosan or another species of termites that this will not be effective for?
Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Hopefully, you do not have Formosan termites. Please let me know if you do. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
I KNEW I BEEN SAVING MY SOAP BOTTLE CONTAINER FOR SOME REASON.. THAN YOU. WISH I WOULD HAVE SEEN THIS VIDEO YEARS EARLIER. THANK YOU T HANK YOU
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
As always, my buddy guy,
You been help me so much like 2-3 years ago with termites, best wishes from hot hot florida ,
I will do the other video for prevention , since thank to you is clean,
I remember you. Thank you for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I'm going to give it a try on the termite station. I used two detergent bottles last week making a mouse/rat station using a mix of baking soda 4 parts, jiffy mix 4 parts and sugar 1 part.🐭🐀
Quick tip: The Dollar General generic detergent bottles don't have the spout thingy in them. Less work. You're welcome.
Thanks. I did not know that. Be well my friend.
Hi, this channel and you are serving people across the globe with issues they are worried about. Great work.
I need your advice on protecting wood planks for long term. Iam in the process of building a new house. Part of the flooring will be raw solid wood made from tree trunks. The foundation of the building is already done pre construction termite treatment using Bayer Premise. Before pouring concrete we applied the chemical mix inside the foundation area then laid back a moisture barrier sheet over the soil, then poured concrete mix over the sheet. The concrete floor again finished with cement plastering. I am planning to add another layer of moisture barrier, PVC sheet, then
screw down raw wood planks to the floor with screw and fisher.
Before that I like to treat the planks for termites. What would you suggest?.
My ideas are
1 Applying borax powder mixed with water and apply it to wood with paint brush or with a sprayer.
1 Applying Bayer Premise or Agenda solution with paint brush or sprayer.
Or I expect something more foolproof from your side.Thanks.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You did not mention where you live, but if you live in the US and you do not live in a restrictive state, then the best way to treat the house is with Bora-Care. You want to treat the entire shell from the top of the roof all the way down to the foundation. In other words, if it's make of wood, then treat it on all exposed sides. Borax powder is not going to get it done. Neither will Premise or Agenda. Mix the Bora-Care one to one with water and not one to five as the label suggests. Apply it with a cheap garden sprayer. You can mix it with cold water, so ignore the information that says you need to use hot water. I will give you a link to the product and a link to a video on how on how to use it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
Love the gentleman in the right hand corner.!😊
Thank you. His name is "Little Guy." He made his first appearance a couple of months ago in one of my videos and folks seem to like him, so I usually try to include him now. Sometimes he asks questions and makes comments. He asked some questions in this video, in the original version, but the video was running long, so I had to cut it out to save time. He appears a lot in my video on how to eliminate drain flies in 3 seconds. Please check it out. I will let him know that you are a fan. 😉😉 Be well my friend.
Video on 3 second fix for drain and fruit flies: ruclips.net/video/-EJVnkkfD4k/видео.html
You mentioned placing the bait stations near mud tubes in a crawl space foundation. For Eastern Subterranean Termites, should I be putting monitoring stations on the inside of my crawl space foundation too, or is putting the monitors around the outside perimeter sufficient? Ps. I love all your videos. You take a real engineering approach to pest control and you're an excellent public speaker. Many thanks!
If you have mud tubes in the crawl space, then this would be one way to eliminate the colony. Keep in mind that this only works if the mud tubes are in direct contact with the ground. Install the bait station so that it is literally touching the mud tube. Break open about a 2-in section of the mud tube and try to obtain some termites. You should put a few live termites into the bait station. Termites do not live long after they have been exposed to the air, so you need to get them into the bait station as quickly as possible. These termites will give off pheromones that will attract the other termites to the bait. Keep in mind that this solution only works if the termites actually go after the bait. They do not always do that. Check the station every couple of days for activity. If they do not start eating the bait after about 4 weeks, then please get back to me and I will go over your alternatives. If they do start eating the bait, make sure that you never remove partially eaten bait. Just insert a new bait cylinder when the existing bait has been deteriorated to the point where you can move it to one side and insert another bait cylinder. Oftentimes mud tubes under the house is an indication that there is a colony that is directly under the house, but this is not always the case. Sometimes the colony is still outside the footprint of the house. Therefore, it would be a good idea to also treat the perimeter of the house as well. The easiest way to do this is with termite granules. Monitoring stations are good idea when you are trying to find out if there are termites in the area that are seeking to eat your house, but they are not a good approach for treating an active infestation. So, it is wise to do a termite treatment on the outside of the building.
If you are certain that these are Eastern subterranean termites, then termite granules are often a cheap and easy solution. Keep in mind that the granules do not work for drywood termites, Formosan termites, or Western subterranean termites. If you are unsure of the species, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Also, for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to use termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Hi Guy,
Very useful video and great service to the global community 👍🏽. Just to add to this, in my experience Jute sacks used to pack food grains are also very much attracted to termites and even better Bait than cardboard.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You can use Jute sacks, but you are probably better off using cardboard. Here's why. Termites eat cellulose. That is why they eat wood. Cardboard contains more cellulose than Jute and it will retain moisture better, so the termites will be more attracted to cardboard. Let's face it, carboard is made out of wood. Here's the thing though. Jute will probably hold up better than cardboard under the ground. So, if you are using these stations where there is no known activity, then Jute may last a lot longer. Cardboard does not last long in the stations. That is why I tell you to only use these next to a monitoring station that has already gone off or next to mud tubes. Also, it is a good idea to "seed" the stations with a few termites that you take out of the monitoring stations that went off. The termites will give off pheromones that will attract the other termites. So, when used the way I recommend, I think cardboard would be your best bet. It's also readily available and most of us spend a lot of time trying to get rid of it anyway. Jute should also work fine though.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi, Actually the Jute sacks attracted me because of termite infection. I am in the process of building a new house. Jute sacks used for curing cement masonry work were left over in the surroundings.
There were plenty of cardboard, wood pieces and dry leaves near by the Jute sacks Jute sacks attracted by termite in the first instance just after a rainy day. I assume the damp cool dark surroundings under the Jute sacks were most comfortable for termites. I got educated by you, and hence I tried this as an experiment. Lots of termite activities in the surroundings. I collected 4 Jute sacks, folded them into small size and laid them in the damp soil about 5 feet away from the foundation, added water then placed an old clay roof tiles above the sacks. 3 of the baits got infected in just 5 days.
In the process I bought Bayer premise and kept it mixed in a 2 litre soda bottle with a pin hole in the cap, so that I can pour the chemical into the Jute sacks.
I have seen very small size active termites grown up 4 times in 2 to 4 days and become weak and not much active after the chemical treatment. By then other creatures such as worms, different kinds of ants were also seen along with termites. After a week termites disappeared. A live tree , teak wood, after a rainy day saw mud plastered about 4 feet high from the ground. I applied the same chemical over the mud plastering and 2 days later when scratched lots of Formosan termites died inside, ants are eating a good feast of dead termite bodies. Some doubts. How close to the foundation can I try the same Bait?
Also how far is it to keep the termite away from the foundation?
Thanks 🙏
@@mediacity3863 I love your experimental nature. That's great. Termites love moisture and they will eat anything that has cellulose. If the termites attack Jute that you treat with Premise, then that should do the job. You can place these bait stations right next to the foundation if you like, but I would only do that if there is a mud tube going up the side of the foundation. Otherwise, I would keep them about 3 or 4 feet from the foundation. Soak that Jute really well with the Premise. The termites will think it's water and they will love it. Feed them well, especially if they are Formosan termites. Those guys can eat a lot. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy I have a question I am making a flower bed off our new deck with a log. The flower bed is about a foot and a half wide and 20 ft long. The side that is near the deck has a rock wall about 10 inches high and that will be its depth. With an inch or more stone showing. The deck is 20 ft out from the house all treated lumber on concrete pads. I know the log will over time rot away and ill replace it. Question is should I scrap the idea and use railroad ties. Thanks Tim… I like how you show how to build and controls pests
Using logs is not a good idea. You are better off using stone. If you are going to use wood, then you should use wood that is rated for ground contact. If you use railroad ties, then treat them with Bora-Care and seal them. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Bora-Care video: ruclips.net/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank You for replying and I will change my design. Nice to be able to ask a pro and get an answer. Cheers
@@TinManTwoFeathers You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Thank you for your generous heart. This will save many houses from partial or complete destruction 💥
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I really appreciate your videos and you freely imparting your expertise. I already learned a lot from watching the ones about termites! We have lived in termite infested rented houses for the last 20 years and we have had massive damage to many things we own, including video tapes and our wedding album. I have never seen an effective termite treatment done (by various companies) in the houses we lived in over the years.
Every area in the city has termites except if you are within a few hundred yards from the ocean. Question: how do I protect our new house in the Philippines? We did soil treatment against termites during construction about 7 years ago. Our house is using as little wood as possible: mostly built with steel post & beams, reinforced concrete walls & floors, inside walls are fiber cement board on metal framing with a metal roof on steel purlins and aluminum windows.
Only doors, doorframes and build-in cabinets are made from wood. As an example every previous house we lived in had door frames and window frames eaten by termites. Our current house had termites during construction in spite of the soil treatment, especially since we had a construction pause for a few years due to medical issues in our family. During that time much of our coco-lumber scaffolding was eaten by termites. We found many termite ducts on the concrete walls. We removed the infested scaffolding wood when we continued construction about 18 months ago.
About 6 months ago, when replacing the metal flashing of our firewall we discovered sandstone-like above-ground nest of about 8 inch diameter and 20 inch length inside an 8 inch hollow space between our concrete firewall and the neighbors concrete perimeter wall. It did not appear to have live termites in it, but we could not pull it up. We treated the 8 inch cavity between the two 40 feet long walls with termiticide and destroyed the nest.
The Philippines has multiple species of termites, but about 90% of property damage in the Philippines is caused by the subterranean Coptotermes species. In the previous house we experienced thousands of flying termites swarming the house and the whole neighborhood during May, usually lasting for at least a week. I do not know if that is the same species.
When moving from the termite infested rented house 3 months ago, we threw out dozens of termite eaten books in boxes and many other damaged items, but some termites might have transferred with the apparently undamaged household items in boxes which we have not all unpacked. Can termites travel with the things we moved?
My main question is: how do we start? I will share a few of our current concerns. I checked the few visible termite ducts on walls that were not yet touched by construction activity. We have not seen them change or grow for over a year, so we assumed that the termites withdrew. How do I make sure they are inactive or dead?
There are also still a few hundred "undamaged" pieces of coco-lumber stored on our lot near an outside wall as we may still need it when painting the outsude walls Should we remove them or treat them with termiticide?
Hundreds of coco-lumber pieces we threw out have been rotting on a neighboring lot about 30 yards away from our house. Do they still pose a problem?
We also have about 30 sheets 4' x 8' of brand-new 3/4th inch laminated plywood which will be used for furniture within the next 3 months. None of the new wood available locally is "treated". The wooden doors we mounted were painted with Solignum insecticide, but some pre-fabbed melamin doors cannot be treated at all. Also our doorframes were neither pressure treated nor treated with any kind of insecticide. How do we best protect our wood inside the house?
The combination of moisture and fixed wood has always attracted the most termites in our observation. Therefore we are careful to keep the house and all wood as dry as possible in our humid tropical climate.
During construction we added a termiticide distribution system using a network of PVC pipes in gravel under our 100 square meter concrete floor slab, because we were told the soil treatment during construction would only last for a few years. I can send you some photos, if you are interested. We have not used the system yet, as I still want to find out what is the correct termiticide to use. Which chemical would you recommend? Fipronil? We can also easily dig a trench around 3 sides of our house, except the firewall side. Should we do that?
Our soil is very dense silt which feels like sandstone, and we had to use a jackhammer to excavate a small basement room during construction. It is well drained and does absorb water properly but slowly.
This question has become a lot longer than I thought. I realize that we have not really done enough about the termite risk before moving in and we really need to develop a strategy. We are still working on many finishing tasks inside the house; for example the kitchen cabinets still need to be built. Therefore I really want to get things right before we add more built-in furniture to the house. We would appreciate any advice you can give us.
I responded to your email. Please let me know if you have any questions. Be well my friend.
💕
Guy I love your content. You are a gem.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks for posting! Any suggestions to rid termites from my kitchen cabinets?
These are most likely drywood termites. If you are seeing frass under the cabinets, then that will confirm it.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thanks for the info. Have do one rid home of Drywood termites and/or a termite colony in your house ? Would like to know. Thank you.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
If you are not sure if these are drywood termites or a different species, then please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Please let me know if they are not drywood termites and I will guide you further.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Any similar homemade devices for drywood termites? thanks, Guy.
I wish I did. I would be a very rich man. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Thanks for all your videos..very helpful...Question: How long should you keep your pets off a lawn after treatment?? Thanks
If you are talking about the bait stations, then the pets can stand there and watch you. No need to keep them off the lawn at all. If you are spraying a pesticide on your lawn, then you need to keep them off the treated area until it is dry. Most of the time, it is dry within a couple of hours. After that, kids can play on it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
thanks@@GuysPestSolutions
@@donm1025 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
I don’t know if I have terrines as I rented six years ago, but living in southern CA, most likely there are here somewhere. Interesting video. Thanks!
I wouldn't be surprised if you have termites, but that is not alway the case. If you are renting, then it's really the owners problem, unless there is structural damage that is unsafe. Keep an eye out for mud tubes and frass. If you see anything like that, then you should make the landlord aware of it. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks so much. I own and no mud tubes. I look for sawdust in odd places. Thankfully so far so good! Have a blessed day!
@@tasst2674 It sounds like you are in good shape. You may want to consider to some preventive treatments for subterranean and drywood termites. I will give you links to those videos. Be well my friend.
How to prevent drywood termites video: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Termite granules video: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Great content. Thanks for taking the time to create this video. 👍🇺🇸
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
this is great, sure beats doing 6 inch drenches around the yard and trees
Utilized Taurus SC 2019 after I found dirt tunnels and problem solved. Every so often I'll soak wood scraps in Taurus mix and plug those into the yard .. in case a stray termite gets hungry.
Soaking wood with Taurus SC probably won't do much to kill off a termite colony because the Taurus SC will not penetrate the wood all that much. If you remove the wood scraps from the ground every couple of months, you can check to see if there is termite activity. It's kind of hit and miss though. If you trenched your house correctly with Taurus SC in 2019, then you should be good until 2029. If you want an easy way to monitor for termites, you can make monitoring stations and place them around your house. I don't think it's necessary to do that, if the trenching job was done well, but I will give you a link to the video on how to make them anyway, in case you just want more peace of mind. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to make termite monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
Great info Guy, thank you. Question for you: I have pavers in my courtyard (wall to wall), and I see mud tubes. Is there a solution to treat the termites other than drilling the Pavers? Thank you
You could throw a Hail Mary Pass. I will give you a procedure, but it's far from a sure thing. You can try treating the mud tubes. To do this, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot the foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites.
Also, the mud tubes, are a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish treating all the mud tubes. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tubes, then your infestation has been eradicated.
It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using a slow kill product. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that the process didn't work.
Again, this is not a sure thing. If it fails, then drilling the pavers would be the way to go.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Thank you so much for making this helpful and clear video...
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Great! I wonder if the Sandy soil in se Florida has termites?
Florida is termite Heaven. You should be protecting yourself from both subterranean termites and for drywood termites as well. Both species live throughout the state. The bait station is not how you do it. My recommendation is to use granules for subterranean termites and a liquid pesticide to prevent drywood termites. I will give you links to both videos. I would urge you to do this as soon as possible. Treating drywood termites requires tenting and fumigation, which is very expensive. I treat my house every year with the granules and I spray the house every 60 days for drywood termites. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
I hope that helps. Be well Sidney.
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Termite granule video: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Any thoughts about doing pest control around fruit trees...we are in Florida and have planted some orange and grapefruit trees. Should we stay away a certain distance?
Trees will pick up anything that is in the soil and a trace amount might end up in the fruit, but it would not be anywhere near enough to be of any concern. Some people are adamant that they do not want even a microscopic amount of pesticide to get into anything that they eat, but the truth is that you could actually consume some of the finished product and not sustain a whole lot of injury. The amount that will get into the fruit, even if you spray directly around the root system, will be so minuscule, that probably you wouldn't even be able to register it by doing a lab test. So, my recommendation is always to go ahead and treat around the trees and maybe even up the trunk of the tree a couple of feet. This will kill any insects that are heading up the trees to to get into mischief. I probably would not spray the fruit directly though. A good way to treat your yard is to use a hose and sprayer and Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do that, and that will give you a link to it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat your yard with a hose and sprayer: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
Would other wide-mouth, round plastic bottles such as Gatoraide or mayonnaise jars work as well as the soap bottles? Seems like they would be easier to bury which is the most labor intensive part.
I considered using those sorts of containers, and they could work, but I opted for the laundry detergent bottles because they are easier to open after being buried. The caps are also easier to spot. They are not hard to bury, and keep in mind that you only need to bury one. You could bury 2 or 3 to provide more bait, but just one will get it done. It doesn't take me 5 minutes to bury one of these bottles. That's a pretty fast termite treatment. Most of the time, you would be digging a trench around the entire house that is 6 inches deep. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for the reply and the information on your channel. The reason I asked is because I don’t buy any laundry detergent / fabric softener in the size you used. Got some balsa sticks from the link you provided and will be making some DIY detectors.
@@TeddyCavachon You can make these out of some PVC pipe too. Just get some PVC pipe from Lowes that is about 2 inches wide and buy a screw on cap fitting for it. Then just drill holes in the side of the pipe. You only need to make it about 8 to 10 inches long. Then you can install it with a drill and garden auger, just like the water bottle stations. They are also very easy to make. I just make them out of laundry detergent bottles because they are free. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hey Guy- thanks again for all your help and answers.... A+
Just for everybody else also I thought I'd ask to confirm.
With your bait stations..... which I have one and am putting down a second just to be safe near another tree.
Is it OK to unscrew them and pull out the tube to check every once and awhile for activity, or will this scare them away from going in them?
Should the cardboard be resoaked again with Fipronil or just left.
Much appreciated!
You should pull out the bait every couple of days to make sure that the termites are well fed. You will soon figure out how fast they are eating and adjust that accordingly. If you need to replace the bait, try to put the infested bait in the side of the bottle before inserting the new roll. You don't want the bait out for long because termites dehydrate quickly when exposed to the air. You want them to remain alive. No need to resoak the bait roll. Once is fine. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
May I know the cardboard soaked with what types of solution.
Thank you.
I used Taurus SC. I have a link in the description. I will provide it below for you. Be well my friend.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Hi Guy , iv done part of the barrier of my house but i have a slop on the sides and instead of worring about the chemicals running to the low spot i was thinking about using one of those 18 or 19" long drill bits to set flower bulbs and run it down the side of the home every 6" or so and fill the holes up with the product , in your opinion, good idea or concern, thanks Guy 😊.
That is a clever idea, but it will not work well. I recommend digging the trench in 2 foot sections. If it's still too steep, then do it in 1 foot sections. Just fill that short trench up with the Taurus SC, until it is running out of the low side. Then, fill it back in and treat the backfill dirt as you are doing it. Make sure that the backfill dirt is well soaked with Taurus SC. Then dig the next section, being sure to remove about 4 inches of the previous section. It takes longer this way, but it's a sure thing. If you have not done so already, please watch my video on how to trench correctly. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to trench correctly: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
I thank you for your reply and help , I actually started doing little short areas on the slope and my idea came in my head so I thought I'd run it by you first, thanks alot 😀
I like the way you think. The thing is that you cannot have any breaks in the treatment and you want that 6 inch wide coverage. I love it when people think outside the box though. Be well my friend.
Greetings from Spain and thanks a lot for your videos, you gave me some hope in the middle of my termite infestation. I have some questions, it would be great if you could answer some or all of them, in any case thanks for your patience and attention.
How often we should check the bait station for bait replacement? Could a month be enough or should we check more often? In your experience will the cardboard last so long underground?
Can I use the same bait (carboard+fipronil) indoors? For instance puting some kind of box with it on top of a termite mud tube in the wall or in the floor or on top of wood they are eating?
I see that professional stations have more slots but narrower. Although it would be some more work, could be better if I do, for instance 4 narrower windows in each side?
If I find termites in a monitoring station and I am going to place a 'laundry bottle' station, should I take any special precaution to avoid disturbing termites (like making the hole in the dark :) ) I am afraid if I disturb they too much they could left the area....
In Spain (I'd say in the whole UE) this pesticide might be quite expensive (around 250$ 200ml Termidor SC opposite to 60$ 500 ml I see Taurus SC in the States) as not every seller is willing to sell to homeowners probably due to legal restrictions or perhaps is due to patent issues as I do not see other termite fipronil based products but Termidor for sale here...
In any case I have some questions regarding effective use of it:
-How long does it last? I mean, 200ml of product will allow to make many cardboard baits, so I can buy it with the hope that I have many years ahead of termite baits, but do you know how long it can be stored and continue to be effective?
-If I prepare more cardboard baits than needed for immediate use they will dry before puting them in the ground. Would be they still effective?
-With the same cost of the Termidor SC I can buy 6 professional bait stations + 750gr of hexaflumeron bait (mixed with cellulose), or 1,5kg of hexaflumeron bait. Or for half the price of the fipronil I can get 750gr of the hexaflumeron bait (for using it I should use other type of stations, I think). Taking into account high cost of fipronil, would you stick to it or would go for the hexaflumeron.? Thanks a lot for sharing and for your great DIY designs
The first thing that you need to keep in mind is that these bait stations should only be used when you have an active infestation. They are not meant to be used as a preventive measure. If you have an active termite infestation, then you should only install them where you are seeing the activity. You should check them everyday to see if the termites are actually taking the bait. The termites do not always get the memo that they are supposed to take the bait, so these do not always work. If they do take the bait, which generally they do, then you should check the station every day to see how fast they are consuming it. Sometimes the termites will eat it very quickly, and sometimes they will not. So, I would start by checking the station every day, until you get a feel for how quickly they are consuming the bait. The most important thing is you don't want them to run out of food. So make sure you check it off then enough to keep them well fed. The reason you cannot use these as a preventive measure is because the cardboard does not hold up well underground. If you are looking for monitoring stations, you can make those out of used water bottles, and you can use wood as the bait. The wood will not kill the termites, but it will alert you to their activity. After you see the activity, then you can bury one of these right next to the monitoring station. I will give you a link to that video.
It is possible that a similar device like this could work indoors, but I have never tested it.
The professional stations do use more slots that are narrower, but it really doesn't matter. As long as you have a sufficient number of entry ports, then the termites should be able to find the bait fairly easily. I mean, I have seen these guys find some very small cracks in foundations. Believe me when I tell you, they will find the opening. I know some people that modify the design a bit by just drilling a bunch of holes in it, and that will work as well.
One of the things you need to understand about termites is that they are constantly coming and going from the food source. They are not actually colonizing there. For that reason, you don't need to worry about them returning after you remove the bait for a short period of time. Remember, you are only pulling it out for a matter of seconds and then putting it back, just to see if there are termites there and how much they are eating.
One of the biggest advantages to attacking the problem this way is that you are not trenching around the entire building. If you trench around the entire building, that takes a lot of pesticide. However, you can make a liter of finished pesticide with a very small amount of fipronil. So, even if the product is very expensive, keep in mind that you will use very little of it. You can make a lot of bait cylinders with just a couple of mixed liters of the product. A container of any fipronil based pesticide should last at least a couple of years on the shelf.
It is perfectly okay if the cardboard bait cylinders are dry when you put them in. In fact, it's probably better that way. The thing is though that you want to store them after they dry in a container that does not allow light in. Light will cause the product to deteriorate. I would probably make about a liter of finished pesticide and then I would soak as many of the cardboard cylinders is possible. Then I would wait to see how much bait the termites are eating before I would make any more. That way you can get an idea of how many you are going to use. Keep in mind that the termites are probably going to be dead within 12 weeks.
The problem with using hexaflumuron is that it doesn't kill any termites. This product is an insect growth regulator and all it does is prevent the termites from reproducing. For that reason, it can take up to 2 years to be effective. It doesn't always take that long, but it could. That means you may need to continue using the bait for quite some time. Meanwhile, the termites may also be eating your house as well. The fipronil is an actual pesticide that will kill the termites within a matter of days. As they share it with the other termites in the colony, they will spread it around and the colony will quickly die out from the poison. The fipronil is not an insect growth regulator, but rather an actual pesticide that is fatal when ingested. That means the kill time for the colony is greatly reduced. I'm not saying that you should never use the commercial bait stations, but you should understand that they work differently. The other problem with the commercial bait stations is that they attract termites. The fipronil stations do not. Now, you may think attracting the termites is a good idea, but not if they were not there in the first place. If you are installing these as a preventive measure, then you may actually attract termites to your house that would not have been there if you had not installed these things. So, I never recommend any type of bait station for use as a preventive measure, if it has a growth regulator in it that will attract termites. You are way better off using monitoring stations that only use wood, which will not be as attractive to termites. They will only find these stations if they are very nearby. If you have an active infestation, then you could use the commercial stations, or you could use the homemade ones. Personally, I prefer the homemade stations that use fipronil, but I'm sure there are many pest controls that would debate the issue with me. You can also use imidacloprid as well. You may find that to be less expensive or more available. That is unclear where you live.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
What do you think is the best approach with what we think are subterranean termites in the boat which is sitting with a sand bank at low tide when it's not floating in sea water over a kilometre off shore
If this boat is being lifted off the sand by water every day, then it is highly unlikely that these are subterranean termites. If you live in a tropical climate, then these are more likely to be drywood termites. I am not really a boat guy, so I do not know much about boat construction. Therefore, I may not be the best person to advise you on this. I can tell you that for a house, I always recommend fumigation. I'm kind of guessing that for a boat, you would need to do that in dry dock. You can also try to spot treat the problem. If these are drywood termites, then you will most likely see frass that is located just below a tiny hole somewhere in a wood surface. You can try shooting a fipronil foam into the holes for about 5 seconds, or until the foam is coming back out at you. This will kill that individual gallery, but there could be multiple galleries around the boat. The problem could be finding them though. Sometimes the frass is pushed out in places that are not easily spotted. Like inside cabinets and that sort of thing.
I hope that helps. By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual.
Be well my friend.
We live in Massachusetts and Taurus SC is not be allowed to be shipped here. Is there any other good alternative which would be allowed to be shipped in MA ?
You can't get much in Massachusetts. So, you need to go after the termites in a different way. Amazon should ship termite granules to you. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you will need to go out of state to get the products that you need. If you need to go out of state to buy products, New Jersey has no such laws. Just have the products shipped there to a friend or to a UPS store. It's a trip, but a lot cheaper than paying a professional.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions You are indeed a great gift to us like @eny11 mentioned
@@bsbawa10 Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks for the great video. Question, once the cardboard has been soaked and inserted in the bottles , should it be allowed to dry before burying in the ground ?
It doesn't matter. You can do it wet if you like. If you make extras, they are only good for a couple of months though. Store them in a cool, dark place for maximum storage life. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy- I greatly appreciate your videos- I now have a serious termite problem, in the crawl space under the kitchen floor. I'm wondering, is the imidacloprid you mentioned, effective in eventually killing the entire colony, as fipronil is? I'm asking because there is air exchange, with the area under the kitchen floor, and I understand fipronil is not recommended for indoor use. It seems the imidacloprid is a bit safer- but the question is whether the termites will take it back to the colony, as they do with the fipronil- thank you so much- great videos-
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Both fipronil and imidacloprid can be used under the house for trenching or in a bait station, but this is often not the way to go. You need to inspect under the crawl space and see if there are mud tubes that are in direct contact with the ground. Please do that and let me know what you find out. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Thank you for making this video. I'm watching this because a few days ago I moved some boxes in the garage and disturbed a whole bunch of little white friends. They had come up through the cracks in the floor and eaten up the boxes. Ants attacked them and I sprayed the ones I could see. Now I'm trying to decided what to do about them.
The bait stations are only good if you know exactly where the termites are coming in and if you can install the station there. That does not seem to be the case here.
There are two other options for treating subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. I have videos on how to do both options and I will place links below.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
If you are seeing ants that may be eating the termites, those could be carpenter ants. It is not uncommon to have both termites and carpenter ants at the same time. If the ants are big and black, then that is what they are. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat them.
It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Video on how to treat carpenter ants: ruclips.net/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k2_1_4&=&crid=38N4G81Z51T3L&=&sprefix=term
Thank you for taking the time to give a detailed reply. After watching your videos I think I am going to go the granule route. I'm glad you specified how long it would take. Knowing myself I would've waited a couple of weeks and assumed it didn't work.Water absorption shouldn't be a problem we get heavy rains and the ground never has standing water. Is it worthwhile to try to put some granules in the garage floor cracks from above? Should I try to treat the ants and termites at the same time? This is a house in E Central IL.@@GuysPestSolutions
@@Troy_Built To treat the cracks in the garage floor, I recommend using Termidor Form. Just shoot the foam into the crack until it is coming back out at you. When it starts to come back out, then move to another section of the crack. The foam expands to get into every little crevice in there. You can do both the termite and the ant treatments at the same time. Be well my friend.
Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Thank you.@@GuysPestSolutions
@@Troy_Built You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Very nice man and is very smart. I will share this.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well Donna.
So I have ants that shoot out of window frames and bathroom seams (newly done at a hefty price) so I've been using a puffer inside and outside up underneath the siding of diatomaceous earth hoping it does similar to borax. So far so good. But I do see black flying strange things but the odd name I cannot recall that I was told they were! I've been trying to have Terminex get rid of for 3 years-ugh. Once you get something its tough to get rid of. This is a great idea for outside that you have! I've always believed I have termites, too much wood.
Do you have a treatment for exterminating scorpions? I live in Arizona, and scorpions are a constant problem. Thank you, Janet
The best product for scorpions is Onslaught Fastcap. Mix it according to label directions in a battery operated tank sprayer and spray up the side of the building 36 inches and out away from the building 48 inches. Be sure to soak the area where the building meets the ground. Also apply this on your patios, stairs, sidewalks, and that sort of thing. In other words, you want to apply it any place you frequently walk. This will stop the scorpions from getting in the building or hanging out on surfaces where you frequently walk. Next, you should apply it on all ornamental plants around the building as well, being sure to treat the dirt under the plants. I recommend applying it every 60 days. Look for obvious penetrations in the side of the house and treat them with D-Fense dust. Just buy a duster, fill it halfway with the dust, and puff the dust into any cracks or crevices that you find. After treating, it is a good idea to caulk these penetrations as well.
Always make sure that you hang up all your clothes. You should never leave clothes laying on the floor. Clothes that are waiting to be washed should be kept in a sealed hamper. Shoes should be kept off the floor on some sort of a shoe rack. After you finish the exterior treatment, you should check the house for scorpions. Look under appliances, in closets, under the bed, and that sort of thing. Be sure to check shoes, curtains, or anyplace these guys may be hiding. To assist in your search, you can use a black light. All scorpions will glow green when exposed to a black light.
I hope that helps. Be well Janet.
Onslaught FastCap Spider and Scorpion Insecticide: www.domyown.com/onslaught-fastcap-spider-and-scorpion-insecticide-p-2579.html
D-Fense dust: www.domyown.com/dfense-deltamethrin-dust-p-2428.html
Duster: www.domyown.com/bellow-hand-duster-p-106.html
Wow, Thank you for such a thorough answer. I will definitely look into these products suggested. I do hunt/kill with a black Light. Not my favorite thing to do... 😮
Thank you again for taking the time to respond. I truly appreciate it.
Janet
@@janetvandermeer3258 You are very welcome. Be well Janet.
Is Termidor okay to use? Same active ingredient as Taurus SC.
Yes. The products are identical in every way except for the price. Taurus SC is cheaper. Other than that, no difference at all. I hope that helps. Be well my Jennifer.
amazing. i just sent u a really long email asking u for your help or opinions BUT NOW i think i may have found my answers after exploring your channel further.
If I have not answered your email yet, I will most likely get to it today. I get a lot of email. Sometimes as many as 100 in a day. Mostly termites, cockroaches, and mice. I answer them all, but it can take me a day or two sometimes to respond if I get a lot of email in one day. I answer them in the order in which they are received, so you will get a response. I try to answer all email within 48 hours. I don't always make it, but I do my very best. I promise that you will get a response in a timely manner. I take all questions very seriously, so I take a lot of time providing a detailed answer. Everyone gets the same service from me, so it can take some time. I will stay with you though until you have the problem resolved, and I will do my very best not to let you down. Be well my friend.
i live in iowa and have lots of tree roots under driveway and up to my house i notice lots of termites in ground and around foundation what can i do are they just after the tree roots have not noticed in house but want to prevent that fronm happening also noticed in the yard around some man whole covers lots of tree roots
Most likely the termites will not just settle for the roots. They may well be in your home already without you knowing it. I will do my very best to assist you with this. For starters, please do a thorough inspection of your home for termites. I have a video that will show you how to do it correctly. Please get back to me and let me know if you find any termites in the house. I hope that helps. Be well Misty.
Video on how to inspect your home for termites: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
Are these good for Florida termites? Thankyou
You have three different species of termites where you live and they each get treated differently. You could have drywood termites, Formosan termites, or a Eastern subterranean termites. So, you need to start by determining the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine.
The video you watched is for making bait stations. These can only be used for subterranean species and if you know exactly where the termites are located. The good news is that you live in Florida, so you can sometimes treat subterranean termites for less than $100. So, get back to me with the species. Again, if you cannot figure it out, then let me know and I will assist you further.
Be well Kerri.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Do you have to rinse out all the detergent residue first?
I always rinse them out. It doesn't need to be perfect though. Be well my friend.
How did you know what kind of termites you have?
How do you set the bait stations? In the same hole as the monitor?
How near the house do I need to be?
I have a video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link to it. Install the monitoring stations 4 feet apart around the entire house and about 3 to 4 feet from the side of the house. You just don't want water running onto the monitors from the roof. If a monitor is showing activity, then install one of these bait stations directly next to the monitor. Check the bait station every day to make sure that the termites are taking the bait. Check daily and replace the bait as needed. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Will this work for Formosa termites if you don't know if you're infested yet or not?
This is not the best way to go about treating Formosan termites. It can work, but these guys are bad. I mean, very bad. So, I would be way more aggressive when treating them. If you don't know if you have them, then please watch my video on how to inspect for termites. You will learn exactly how to find them. If you do have them, I also have a video on how to treat them. I will give you the links to both videos. Be well Angelina.
Video on how to inspect for termites: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Thank you Sir. From the Phils
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Is it possible to have Formosan and another species? I live in southeastern Louisiana. I know I have termites in the yard. Last swarming season, May-June, I had a bug zapper out for mosquitoes in my front yard. I had it close to, almost on the ground. The termites went wild! Coming out of the ground overloading the zapper. Zapper was smoking with all the termites. This was about 8-10 feet from the house. Would the trap work with Formosan termites at all?
Most species are attracted to light when they swarm. It is possible to have more than one species. You need to look at the swarmers to determine the species. If they all look alike, then you probably have just one species. Formosan termites are very common where you are. If you have an infestation of Formosan termites, please watch my video on how to treat a Formosan termite infestation. I would not use a bait to do it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat a Formosan termite infestation: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much! I will be watching your video. Probably have to wait until May to compare a few termites. I can check the state university ag center website to see if there are other species, too. I know there are carpenter ants around, too. Thanks again for the help!
I am not surprised that you have carpenter ants. It is very common to have both carpenter ants and termites at the same time. That is because carpenter ants like to eat termites. Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood. They just like the tunnel through it, and they use it to establish satellite galleries. The termites make things very easy for them. Not only do they make a handy meal for the ants, but the termites do most of the excavation of the wood. So, it's a pretty sweet deal for the carpenter ants. Unfortunately, the carpenter ants do not eat enough of the termites to stop the infestation. They will slow it up a bit though, so you do not want to treat the carpenter ants until you eliminate the termites.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for that info! I'll leave the carpenters alone for now! Thanks again!
@@z.stone9016 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy, Would you recommend using Nisus Bora-Care for soaking the cardboard instead of Taurus SC? Which in your opinion is better? Thank you very much for the very informative and helpful videos.
Bora-Care works much differently than Taurus SC. Bora-Care kills mechanically, so the termites need to eat it for them to die. Therefore, it can take some time to work because, who knows when the queen or other termites are going to eat that food? The Taurus SC works on the nervous system and it is a contact killer. So, the termites do not need to eat it for it to kill them. They will bring back the contaminated food and they will also spread the Taurus SC around to the other termites by simply moving about the colony. That means you are killing them two different ways. So, the Taurus SC is going to eliminate the colony much faster. That means you will use much less bait too.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Your prompt feedback helps a lot. Thanks for sorting out my dilemma. Now I am off to try out your elegant fifty cent solution!
Hi Guy, i want to prevent termites at my house but I would like to use bait stations so I can use a smaller amount of toxic chemicals. Can I soak wooden rods in fipronil and pound them into the ground around my house? Do you think that would work. Thanks
I'm sorry for the delay in responding. I am on vacation at the moment, and I am on a cruise, so I don't always have internet and often I am doing vacation stuff. My wife and I have not had a vacation in over 13 years, so it was time. I will be home on June 11, so I can answer any additional questions you may have at that time.
I don't think that will work very well. The pesticide is not going to soak into the wood well enough and you will be unable to monitor how much bait is being eaten. You should also know that Taurus SC (fipronil) or termite granules (imidacloprid) are not all that toxic. In fact, they are not much more hazardous than common laundry detergent. Both have a signal word of caution, which is the least hazardous assignment that a chemical can get. The truth is that Taurus SC and the termite granules are safe enough for kids to play on after they dry. This is the 21st century and we now have 21st century pesticides. They are not the hazardous pesticides that we used to use in the 20th century. Those were banned in the late 1990's. So, if it's prevention you seek, then termite granules are usually the best choice.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider just using monitoring stations.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to make monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
A few years ago I used Spectracide Terminate Termite Detection and Killing Stakes, that seems to be the same concept as to what you are showing. I most definitely have termites, but what I noticed actually in the traps eating the cardboard was these very skinny red worms that were able to get through the tiny holes in the traps. Since then I've been reluctant to use cardboard traps. I figure softwoods would be better in my case. I figure only termites and not worms would eat the bait. But cardboard is free and so easy to work with!
The problem with the Spectracide Termite Stakes is that ants will eat the bait, and so they are always popping up, even if you do not have termites. Also, there's not enough bait in them to kill off a termite colony. Therefore, those things are pretty much useless. If you like, you may want to watch my video on the subject. I will give you a link to it.
The only kind of insect that travels underground, that will eat wood, are termites. That is why I use wood in the monitoring stations. So, if one of these things goes off, then you most likely have termites. You still need to pull it out of the ground to make sure that the monitoring station did not malfunction. Let's face it, these things are made out of used water bottles, so it is possible for the stick to move a little bit and the orange dot to disappear, even though there are no termites. So when you see the dot disappear, pull the station up to make sure that there is activity in it. If there is, then put that monitoring station back in the ground and go ahead and treat for termites by installing a bait station right next to it. You can use the Advance bait stations or you can make your own. I now have a video on how to make them yourself, and they work a lot faster than the Advance system. The problem with using cardboard is that it doesn't last long underground. It's fine for killing termites, but not for monitoring for them. So, I used cardboard in the bait station, but not in the water bottle station. The only reason I use it for part of the water bottle station is as a spacer to make assembly easier.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on Spectracide Termite Stakes: ruclips.net/video/UDzg-1lpynA/видео.html
Video on how to make termite bait stations: ruclips.net/video/r05Z-aUJehw/видео.html
Wouldn't you need to use a growth inhibitor instead of a termiticide? Why would you use Taurus SC instead of Novaluron?
IGRs like Novaluron can take up to two years to kill off a termite colony. That is because it only stops the termites from reproducing and workers can live up to two years. It usually works sooner than that, but it can still take months to fully eliminate the colony. Taurus SC actually kills the termites, including the queen. The termites will carry it back to the colony and share it with the other termites. This will take out the entire colony within about 12 weeks. So, for me, I think killing off the colony as fast as possible is a good idea. Novaluron will be effective, but Taurus SC will get the job done a lot faster. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy, I was wondering if we could use the Gatorade or similar bottles to make these bait stations with the cardboard and termiticide, instead of the laundry detergent bottles? We trenched around the building already comma however it is an 18 unit building eight and I too straight and the perimeter is approximately 385 linear feet, so we will need quite a few of them. We did find termites in ane empty first floor unit. The building is slab on grade, no basement.
You can really use any kind of bottle that you want to make a bait station. The reason I chose laundry detergent bottles is because they have a very wide opening on the top. The wider the opening is, the more bait you can put in the station.
That being said, the bait stations are not intended to be a shotgun approach for termites. You should only use them in areas where you know exactly where the termites are located. For example, if you use monitoring stations that have no poison in them, and one of them goes off, then that would be a good place to use one of the bait stations. Another good place to use them would be if you see mud tubes going up the outside of the building. Installing one or two of the bait stations directly in front of the mud tubes may kill off the entire infestation. Since you have a very lengthy perimeter, and you have only seen the termites in one area, then I would probably focus my treatment and that location. Now, you said that you trenched around the building. If these are subterranean termites, then that should have taken care of them, if you did it correctly. So, the first thing you need to do is to make sure these are actually subterranean termites and not a species that behaves differently.
Before you proceed further, I recommend that you tell me where you live. Location matters, because different species live in different areas around the world or different areas of the United States. Some species will fly to your house and they don't go in the ground at all. There are also subterranean termites that have the ability to colonize in your home. They do attack from the ground, but once in your home, they have the ability to take up residence there. That means they need to be treated much differently than a more common species of subterranean termites. So, where you live matters a lot. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. After watching this video, I think you will have a good idea about what you are dealing with.
If you did the trenching yourself, then you may want to watch my video on how to properly trench for subterranean termites, to make sure that you did it correctly. If you did, and if this is a common variety of subterranean termites, then that should be doing the job for you. If it isn't, then something went wrong, and we need to get to the bottom it.
If you like, you can install monitoring stations, instead of bait stations, around the entire building. Monitoring stations do not kill termites, but they will tell you where you're located. You can certainly make these out of Gatorade bottles. I'm guessing you already watched my video on how to make monitoring stations out of water bottles, but I will give you a link to the video just in case you didn't. By installing monitoring stations, you have a good chance of pinpointing exactly where the termites are getting in. Armed with that information, you can better pinpoint your treatment to the exact area where it will be needed. I recommend placing the monitoring stations ever 4 feet apart around the entire building.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to properly trench for subterranean termites: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Video on how to make termite monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
Thanks for responding Guy. I did watch your video on trenching and I think that we did a fairly good job. I did purchase some commercial bait stations and I plan on putting them around the unit that we found the live termites and damage. I would like to make my own and put them around the remainder of the building. I live in Southeastern Massachusetts and I have a video of the only live ones that we found. And they do look like subterranean termites.
@@johnpalmieri624 If you live in Massachusetts, then you only have one species of subterranean termites. 99% of the time, trenching around the building like you did should end the problem. The only time this would not be the case is if the colony is very close to the building, and part of that colony is actually under the building. When this happens, then trenching is not going to work, and the bait stations are probably not going to work either, because the termites are going straight up from the colony to the infested area. This can happen sometimes when you have a building that is on a slab. I didn't see where you told me how long ago you did the trenching, but it can take about 12 weeks to be effective. That is because the termites need time to take the pesticide back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Taurus SC is a slow kill product, so it will take a few weeks before you will see the results. If you did the trenching longer than 12 weeks ago, then it is possible that you have a colony under the slab. The best way to treat that would be to use a spot treatment. So let me go over how to do that with you. If the trenching was done less than 12 weeks ago, then I recommend that you wait to see if that trenching was effective before you do anything else.
To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for the product I like to use. Drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in a wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then also drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites.
Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. Since you have a slab building, then you may find them going up the outside of the building on the slab and even the side of the building. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites.
Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated.
It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. This is the same amount of time that it takes if the pros to it too.
You can still install the monitoring stations if you like, but I would not use my homemade bait stations at this point. If the spot treatment fails, then you can try to install commercial bait stations near the location of the infestation. My stations do not attract termites, but the commercial ones do. So, the hope would be to draw them away from the building with the bait. This does not always work, but it is worth a shot if the spot treatment fails. Place the stations about every 8 feet apart along the wall where you have the activity about 3 or 4 feet from the building. I will give you a link to them. Don't use the wood that comes with them. Change that out to the bait immediately. Again, only do this if the spot treatment fails. Keep in mind that the commercial bait stations are slow. Very slow. So it will take some time for them to work. Check the station every few days. If you see termites eating the bait, then you could install one of my bait stations next to the commercial one, hoping that they will also eat my bait, which is a much faster kill.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Bait stations: www.domyown.com/advance-termite-bait-station-p-148.html
Bait: www.domyown.com/trelona-compressed-termite-bait-box-cartridges-p-17220.html
Thanks so much for responding again. Would you happen to have an email that I can send a diagram of the building to so you can get a better idea of what we found and where we found it? The termites definitely came up from inside the building.
@@johnpalmieri624 You can email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please remind me of you RUclips name and what is going on. I get a lot of email and most of it is about termites, so I have a lot of termite issues going on. I don't want to confuse your case with someone else. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy. Ive had little reddish colored termites flying around my kitchen night around 10pm everynight. I have looked and theu seem to be drywood termites. After i sprinkle the termite killer around, i dont see them. Is it actually killing drywoods? Termite killing has been a mystery to me. I dont undertand fully, how they operate. Ive watched your vids and theyve been helpful. I live in FL btw too.
Also, I haven't seen any evidence of tubes going up the side of the foundation. I always keep an eye out for those.
This does sound like drywood termites. Please watch my video on how to identify termites species. Don't worry. It's not as difficult as you may think. It's actually pretty easy. That video is going to show you what frass looks like. It will also show you what kick out holes look like as well. The termites you are seeing are called alates or swarmers. They are the reproductives that are looking to start a new gallery. If these do turn out to be drywood termites, then you need to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
Please get back to me if these are not drywood termites and I will guide you further.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termites species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks so much for all that Guy. Being in Florida, on the coast, unfortunately don't have a crawl space. I have gotten good at looking for evidence of them.
I think I was getting confused by exactly how they operate. It seemed like after I put some termite granules down, they'd stop swarming. I had no clue whether that was just coincidental or not. I have a bay window that had a soft spot in the wall, I tore the drywall down and the studs were gone. I think this has been going on for a very long time. Several years ago, I'd get the frass at the baseboards, but everyone thought it was ants bringing dirt in. Boy was I wrong.... I don't have the money to fumigate as is it a 2 story house and they want 8k+ to do that, on average. Now based on what you've said, trying to find the galleries may be impossible, so I may have no choice. I've heard from people that said termites were an issue in thay neighborhood years ago. It was built in the mid 80, and mostly all wood frame homes. I do sincerely appreciate you taking the time to respond with a lengthy and informative message. I will watch the rest of your videos I may have not seen yet. Thanks again!
@@yeeebayeeba4268 Always my pleasure to assist. If you are seeing significant damage, then make sure that these guys are not Formosan. See if you can dig out a specimen with a red head and have a look at it. Put it in a jar and hang on to it. Try to catch one alive and let it die a natural death in the jar. You don't always see mud tubes with these guys. Also, check the attic for mud tubes. It takes a long time for drywood termites to do significant damage, so that would make me nervous. Formosan swarmers are also a reddish color. You are probably right that the infestation has just been going on a long time, but it's best to make sure. I just want you to be okay. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions they are red, they just don't seem to have that diamond shaped head. It's more round and cylindrical sahl3d body. There is significant damage. Tubes inside the walls, just never saw them outside...
Thanks so much.
1:10 I typically use a pair of pliers to pull it out. 👍🏼
????? What use for bait????? I love this video but Ive listened to it twice and dont see or hear about the bait used??? Im older gal and havent done this before. My area is known for being a high termite area. I assume there's certain kinds of bait. What bait do you suggest ?
You need to make the bait yourself as I show in the video. You are basically rolling up cardboard and soaking it in a termiticide. Termites like to eat cardboard, so that is the bait. Since it is treated with fipronil, the termites will take that back to the colony and share it with the other termite, thereby killing the entire colony. You can only use these if you have an active infestation, and you have pinpointed exactly where the termites are located. If you just want to find the termites or monitor for them, then you need to build monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Be well my friend.
Video on how to build termite monitoring stations: ruclips.net/video/gye27aXHRsY/видео.html
If I already have termites I see under a wood block, can I just but those stakes and put it nearby in the grass, then remove the block? I wouldn't need bait stations, right?
Or would the below work if stakes are not enough poison? The termites are actively there.
Trelona Compressed Termite Bait for Insects - Box (6 cartridges)
@@kristicarter7213 If you are seeing them in a wood block, then you can either make the stations yourself or you can use the Advance system. The difference is that the ones you make yourself work a lot faster. The Advance system uses an insect growth regulator that can take up to 2 years to work. The homemade stations will do the same job in about 12 weeks. Either way, leave the wood in place and install the bait station directly next to the infested wood. Check the bait station every day to see if the termites are taking the bait. If they do, then you are golden. Just keep replacing the bait as needed. Check it every day to make sure they don't run out of bait. You can also dig a trench around the infested wood that is 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep and pour a lot of Taurus SC into the trench, mixed 0.8 oz per gallon of water. Then, soak the backfill with the Taurus SC mixture as you are filling it in. You can install the bait station in that trench while you are filling it in. This way, you can't miss. The colony will be dead within 12 weeks, regardless of the bait you use. I hope that helps. Be well Kristi.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
How many days does it take termites to eat a cardboard cylinder? And how many cardboard cylinders do I need to kill a termite colony? Thanks
That's hard question to answer because it depends on so many factors. For example, the size of the colony, the species, soil conditions, the number of other food sources, distance from the colony, weather conditions, and so forth. The important thing is that the termites find the bait. If they start eating the bait, and you keep adding bait as needed, then their days are numbered. Don't ever remove partially eaten bait. You just want to add new bait and never remove old bait. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Do you have a suggestion for grasshoppers?
You bet. I recommend treating your entire yard and the side of your house. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it. Be well my friend.
ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions oh,well thank you anyways🤗. I quit my job back in 2020 because of the mask mandate. Strong pesticides won't work for me. Have a wonderfull day and thank you for your time🤲
@@ThePennie46 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Guy, I've found a termite nest in the back yard under a stack of old timber. Taurus sc is not available in Australia. Would something like Termidor liquid which has 100% Fipronil works using the cardboard roll/s method? Can I just placed the baited, rolled up cardboard directly under some of the timber planks those things are eating right now? Thank you.
You could do that, but it would be a better idea to use the timber that they are eating against them. To do this, get a can of spray paint and spay the perimeter on the ground around the timber that is about 30 CM wider than the footprint of the timber. Then move the timber outside of this marked perimeter. Remove about 15 CM of dirt to create a pit that covers the entire area within the marked perimeter. Mix the Termidor according to label directions for termites and soak the pit really well with it. Cover the pit with 8 CM of dirt and soak the entire area using a watering can. The same thing you would use to water plants. Finish filling in the pit and soak it again with the Termidor mixture. Then, simply put the timber back where it was originally. If this is a very large area, then you can do it in sections. Since termites are subterranean, they will be returning to the underground colony fairly often to bring food back to the queen and other termites that do not leave the colony. They will have no choice but to pass through the Termidor, so they will bring that back with them and share it with the other termites. The entire colony will be wiped out within about 12 weeks. That timber will now be safe from termites, if you leave it there, for about 5 to 10 years. I know this is a lot more work, but it will be way more effective. You see, the termites are coming up from the ground, so they may not take the bait in the bait station because you will probably not place it in their path. It is possible that they will take the bait, and if they do, the bait stations should work, but I would use several of them around the perimeter. Digging the pit is a sure thing though. If you like, you could try the bait stations, and if they don't take the bait, then you can always dig the pit. If they do take the bait, then make sure that you keep them supplied with bait until they stop eating it in all the stations.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you for this information, Guy. All the best!
@@Two_Bluebirds You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
IHow do you treat for termites where rhe exterior is not dirt, but a very wide rv pad?
Do you suppose you could send me photos of all sides of the structure? I really need to see it to make recommendations. You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Be well my friend.
I don't even have a termite problem, but enjoyed the info and how it was presented.
I feel like I actually gained a few IQ points from this. Thank you Sir.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Good on you mate , cheers 👌
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Could I use Borax powder dissolved in water to soak the cardboard with as Fipronil is banned within the EU and termites are not?
I don't think Borax will work well, but it is something you can try, if you cannot get anything else. I would first try to buy an insect growth regulator like Novaluron, (S)-Hydroprene, Pyriproxyfen, or any other IGR that you can find. Some countries in the EU may allow unlicensed people to purchase small amounts of IGRs for use in their garden. These are still considered to be pesticides, but they are extraordinarily safe, so some countries may allow you to purchase it. This is the same stuff that they put in termite bait stations. It can take up to 2 years to work, but it does work. You may also be able to purchase commercial bait stations that contain an IGR. If you cannot find anything else, then you can experiment with Borax, boric acid, or even diatomaceous earth. If you use this sort of stuff, then soak the cardboard prior to rolling it up because these are basically powders that may not penetrate through rolled up cardboard. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks very much
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions If I could bother you again would Diflubenzuron work? It works by inhibiting the production of chitin and seems to still be available within the EU.
@@allthingsmalta6487 Don't worry. You are never bother. It is always my pleasure to serve you. Diflubenzuron is what we call an insect growth regulator or IGR. Simply put, IGRs work by interrupting the insect's ability to reproduce. If they cannot reproduce, then they will eventually die out. Most termite bait stations use an IGR. The problem with them though is that they can take up the two years to work because a termite worker can live up to two years. However, they often do work faster than that, but not as fast as if you use a pesticide that will act on the insect's nervous system, like fipronil. All of this is a long way to say that diflubenzuron will work, albeit somewhat slower than what I was suggesting. If diflubenzuron is available, you may also be able to purchase ready-made bait stations, because they essentially contain the same type of active ingredient. Purchasing such a bait station that is commercially available may provide a better bait system than the one you make yourself. That is to say, they may contain a lot more bait than my stations, so you won't need to replace the bait as often. However, if you cannot find one that is commercially available, then I think using diflubenzuron would probably work for you in one of my bait stations. Keep in mind though that I have not tested it. Nevertheless, I see no reason why it would not work, if you keep them fed. Since this is going to be a slow process, you need to make sure that they do take the bait in the first place, and that you keep the bait station supplied with bait for as long as it takes to wipe out the colony. Just based on everything I know about termites, this should get it done.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I noticed that you sprayed the homemade detector (in the plastic bottle) with Termidor Foam Termiticide to turn it into a bait station. Instead of soaking the cardboard with Taurus could you use the foam instead, just spray into the rolled up cardboard when making these? Would it make any difference.
I have termites in my back yard and have seen them, they ate part of my back fence but so far have not seen them in the house :(
I'm asking that because I can't seem to find the liquid Taurus SC unless its marketed under a different name
I found a 20 oz bottle of Firponil so I went ahead and ordered. I debated whether to call my pest control company again (they had been out last fall, and sprayed but obviously missed this).
I have no idea how old the fence damage is, but when they sprayed they did not find any live termites.
Have been here 25 years and never seen a termite until yesterday. They were in stump full of holes far in the backyard by the fence, concealed under vines. Had to break a branch off to see them.
I just subscribed. Casting my lots with Guy! The bait solution you gave seems more effective and the cardboard bait traps seem to make a lot of sense.
The foam is not a good choice for this application. Please tell me where you live and I will see if I have a good alternative for you. You should inspect the house for termites. Please watch my video on how to do a termite inspection. I cover everything in that video to do it right. Be well my friend.
Video on how to do a termite inspection: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
Okay. I'm glad you found the fipronil. One of the bait stations is a great solution for the fence. Just place the station in front of where the damage is being done. If you can dig out a few termites from the fence, put them in the bait station. They will release pheromones that will attract the other termites to the bait. Just keep feeding them and that should kill off the colony within 12 weeks.
Thank you so much for subscribing. Please pass me along to others. I love to help. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks for answers appreciated and I have told some people about your page.
BTW I saw your video about the Bayer Bioadvanced granules with Imidacloprid.
I found this also for around $60.
Are these granules a game changer for termites? You seemed to think they work much faster.
I'm fairly certain I have Eastern Subterranean as I'm in Central Illinois. Would using both be redundant, or which approach is better?
I was thinking of the station by the stump, and then mixing the granules in a trench around the house just in case..
Though I'm a little confused about your comment regarding this stuff possibly attracting termites to your home? Or did I misunderstand.
You were right about the mixup, I had to go to three hardware stores and only one had the Imiacloprid. They all had the same label.
@@c.rutherford The granules are a game changer because they work about 95% of the time and you do not need to trench. However, for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. If you know exactly where the termites are, then the bait stations can also be a good option. You must place them at mud tube locations or monitoring station locations where the monitor has activity.
The granules do not work faster than trenching or bait stations, but they are way faster to use and less expensive too. All of these options take about 12 weeks to kill off an entire colony.
You are correct that you probably have Eastern subterranean termites. Two methods of treatment won't hurt, but you cannot trench and use granules at the same time. You need to either trench or use granules, but you can add the bait station as an insurance policy. None of these methods attract termites.
If you email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com, I will give you the treatment for the stump. Just ask for the tree stump treatment. I cannot provide it here because RUclips will delete it, along with the rest of this response. I don't know why they do that.
You can buy the correct granules from Amazon for around $47.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k0_1_9&=&crid=2ULLC4JSQYNFR&=&sprefix=termite+g
Hi, Guys pest solution ： Thank you for sharing your profession with us! I have a puppy, and my backyard has lots of gophers. What can I do to evict them and the spiders? Hope you can make a new video to help. Thanks again 😊😊
The spiders are actually pretty easy. All you need to do is treat your yard and that will end the spider problem. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it. Just keep the puppy off the yard until all the pesticide is dry. Gophers are another matter. Normally, I would tell you to either trap them or poison them, but that puppy can get into trouble with both of those things. Therefore, you may want to get a little bit more creative than that. There are some people that swear by gassing them with something like a lawn mower engine. I've never tried this myself, but I suspect that it would work pretty well. The only thing is that there are also moles in your neighbor's yard, and so they will probably be back. Of course, this would be true regardless of the treatment method you select. Since I have never done this, I do not have a video on it, but I took a look to see if there was a decent video out there that you could follow. I found a couple of them and I will give you links to them. Basically, it involves hooking some type of a hose to the exhaust of a lawn mower or other small engine, and then sticking the hose into one of the tunnels that was created by the moles. The exhaust fumes find their way throughout the system and it kills the moles.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat your yard: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
Mole gassing videos:
ruclips.net/video/gQ4zAeTvqYc/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/zIWOGvS0Pno/видео.html
Any ideas for severe roach infestation from guests prior? Thanks, in advance. I live in Florida. Oh, there's more than 1 kind of roach & I have a pest control service.
I would be happy to help. I am not familiar with the word "Orior." Was that a misspelling or just a word I have not seen before? There are lots of species of roaches in the world. I believe there are about 55 species in the US alone. As a pest controller, I'm sure you are familiar with the main ones. Germans are the worst by far and I do have a video on how to totally eliminate them. If you decide to use this procedure, I recommend that you concentrate on businesses. You can render a restaurant, hotel, or even an entire hospital permanently roach free. This is an expensive service because of the time involved in doing it. Most homeowners will not pay for it, but you will be amazed at how many businesses will pay big money to be permanently roach free. My video focuses on homes, but it's the same procedure for any building. You can become very rich doing this one service. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
German roach video: ruclips.net/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Sir, it was supposed to say prior. I corrected it in my comment, Thanks so much for your reply.🙂🌻🦋
Do I wash out the detergent bottle before I start ?
Yes. It doesn't need to be perfect, but it's a good idea to rinse the soap out of it. Be well my friend.
Hello I have termites in my wall so what do I use ?
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Okay, please update and result.
I'm not sure what that means. Please elaborate. Thanks.
Yes im subs,,,,,,,,Please explain ,,what are the ingredients of the solution? ..loving from Philippines
You can use any pesticide that contains fipronil or imidacloprid. The key is that it needs to be a slow kill product. Those are the only two that I know of that will give the termites time to take the pesticide back to the colony and share it with the other termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions wow,,,im happy you noticed me! Hahaha well thank you for the reply,,i will search for that chemical ,,,,,,im hoping it will really solve my pest problem on termites in my nipa hut,,thank you again brother,,,,,,,im looking for more tips and advice
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
So it won't work on furniture. Hope there is a other way to work on furniture or those platforms make of wood
Do you have termites in your furniture? If so, I can assist you with that. Be well my friend.
Do you have a suggestion on where to order taurus sc?
Please tell me where you live and I will see if I have a supplier for your area. Be well my friend.
I believe the actual product appears to be 9.1% Fipronil, Taurus SC is the brand name
@@c.rutherford That is correct, but not everybody can get it. Sometimes I need to recommend a different supplier or a different product. For example, if you live in NY you can't get anything there. It makes not sense, but some states don't want you doing your own pest control. I'm pretty sure that there is money changing hands somewhere to block safe products from consumers. Next they will probably be banning paint and you will need to hire someone to paint your house. It's a real shame. Be well my friend.
Thank you, Sir👊
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
And where do you buy this pesticide?
I will give you a link to it. Be well Mary.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html
I love you sir. Subbed. Cheers
Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I have a box full and been trying to find what to do with them!!!
Hopefully, you won't need a box full, but now you know what to do with a couple of them. Be well my friend.
How to spray for termites in the house?
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
2:04 I’d use a 3/8” bit then! 😂
Connect the holes and there you have a 3/8” wide slot!!
what is tomatoe side
It's termiticide. That is the pesticide that will kill termites. There is a link to the product in the description. Be well my friend.
Will the bottle feel pain 🫣😬
It will but it deserves it for polluting the Planet with plastic, same goes for the humans.
Guy the little Guy in the top right corner ....reminded me of the movie Animal House...
I have not watched that movie in years. I guess I need to watch it again to see what you mean. Thanks for the comment. Be well Dawn.
Do you have any tips for carpenter ants?
You bet. Please watch my video on how to treat carpenter ants. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat carpenter ants: ruclips.net/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/видео.html
Very useful
🙂TY for the VIDEO 😊 PEACE
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Blessings.........And thank you...
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Can you please assist with formosan termites. Can't I use the similar bait stations with the relevant pesticide
Formosan termites are different because they can colonize in your home. Please watch my video on Formosan termites. These guys are very destructive, so you need to go nuclear on them. These bait stations will help, but I wouldn't rely solely on them with Formosan termites. Be well my friend.
Video on Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Hey Guy, new subscriber.
Extremely poor, disabled, single father with two young challenged adults, extremely limited resources, with a very bad infestation of bed bugs!
Any suggestions? 🙏
Bed bugs are bad. Very bad. The key to treating them is to treat everything. I will give you a link to a video that was done by Solutions Pest and Lawn. They have the right idea, but they don't go far enough. Do one room at a time and leave nothing untreated. Treat the floors as well, so they don't go from room to room. Try to stay out of rooms that were treated until the entire living space has been treated. It is easy to bring them back into a room that was already treated. I wish I could say that this is cheap to do, but it will probably cost a couple of hundred dollars. You can't go on living with bed bugs though, so you need to do it. Be well my friend.
ruclips.net/video/9aH1eXf449U/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks Guy for responding.
I'll check out the link that you sent me and see what I can do with the limited resources that I have.
I can't rely on my two young adult kids living with me that I'm responsible for. Neither one of them has any resources coming in whatsoever, and as much as I love them, the good Lord knows, because of their physical and psychological issues, I would have an easier time pulling hen's teeth, then getting them to help with, well, basically anything. LOL😂
Bed bugs...I lived in an apartment building and my nextdoor neighbor had bed bugs and they crawled over to my apartment via the outlets and vents. I bagged everything I owned after washing everything out of the house. Then I threw away shagged carpets. Then I took my electronics out of the apartment and they took a heater and heated my apartment and all the apartments to 140 degrees for 4 hours. It killed everything! I hope you get rid of them soon. The itching is horrible, use salt and water and rub into bites, makes them less itchy!
@@natureboy6410I am so sorry that you are dealing with the adult kids that aren't helping. I can relate somewhat. My son is 34 and he has been disabled all his life. He cannot work and he requires a lot of care. I need to shave him, shower him, brush his teeth, make all his meals, make sure he takes his meds, and all that sort of thing. My wife and I care for my grandson 12 hours a day too. He is two and a half and hasn't spoken his first word yet. We suspect that he too is very disabled. So, it's hard. Still, you must play the hand you are delt. I just take it one step at a time. What else can you do? So, hang in there my friend and be well.
@@zoebear1992 Heat can work, but it needs to be done correctly. There are some companies that are very good at it. You got lucky that you found one. I'm glad that worked out for you. Be well my friend.
will these work for ants?
No. This only works for termites. Please watch my video on how to treat ants. I will give you a link. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat ants: ruclips.net/video/arPeidADLpY/видео.html
U da man!! 🙂
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.