Your my hero! My 74 year old landlady has termites. I am her tenant, I'm 71. Because of your site us silver ladys are confident we can defeat these house eaters! We thank you.
That is so kind of you to assist your landlady like that. You cannot treat termites with the water bottle stations. They are just used to find out if you have termites and where they are located. There are sometimes very easy ways to treat them and I would be happy to assist you with that. The first thing you need to do is determine the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well Marian. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Thank you so very much for this information as well as the incredible ability to teach even a novice such as myself. Your rate of speech, relaxed tone of voice and clarity of your voice. Those three things are what held my attention the entire length of the video. The information contained within the video is very valuable and the monitoring system with expansion is extremely low in cost. The monitoring system is ingenious. The fact that went one step further in providing treatment options is the sign of someone who truly cares about helping others. Thank you for this invaluable video. I will be watching other past videos and waiting for that bell to ring on my end. Sincerely, Buffie
That was such a kind comment for you to make. Very much appreciated. You totally made my day. Thank you so much. Please let me know if you have any questions. Be well Buffie.
I don't own a house, and I don't have any immediate use for this information, but yet the clear and concise manner in which it was presented tells me that you are the guy to go to for when I do have a problem.
This is awesome! Excellent information. Superb presentation. Well done. I've never like, subscribe, share and comment all in one, but you sir deserve it.
Reading through these comments....unbelievable the lack of respect and kindness that's out there in the world. Geezer!? Really? Some people suck. Be kind...... this is great information all the way around. I'm not sure that I'll be able to take the time to implement it, but I'd probably buy them from you if it were an option! Thanks for taking the time to create this video. It's a great education
Thank you so much for those kind words. I guess we live in a Tik Tok world today where everyone wants the solutions to all their problems in 2 minutes or less. If only everything in the world worked that way. The truth is though that, for every negative comment I receive, I get many more positive comments, so I think most people appreciate what I do. So, I kind of believe the majority. It's folks like you that make it worthwhile doing. I truly do appreciate your support. You are very kind. You can purchase these already made, but they cost about $15 each. I don't make or sell them, but I will give you a link to the company that does. Of course, they don't make them out of used water bottles. Do not place them any further apart than 8 feet. Be well my friend. Red Eye monitoring stations: www.solutionsstores.com/red-eye-termite-monitor
@GuysPestSolutions hi guy! Thanks for the reply. I Tik-Tok world indeed! Hey I had a question for you, is there any reason why you couldn't just lay those sticks out if the foundation of your house or four feet out in the yard as you suggested without the bottle or any of the other details? Wouldn't you see the bite marks from the termites on the pieces of wood individually? If in fact the termites existed at all? Thanks again for taking the time to write much Aloha to you
You want a visual confirmation if possible. Other bugs eat wood too, but won't cause the problems with buildings as do termites. @@poolbritekonahawaii1265
@@rockymntain That is not correct. Only termites will eat wood underground. Carpenter ants have the ability to tunnel through wood underground, but there isn't enough wood in the stations to be of much interest to carpenter ants. These guys do not eat wood like termites do, so it's not a food source for them. Therefore, if one of the stations goes off, then it either malfunctioned because the wood slipped out of place, or there is a 99.9% chance you have termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Was addressing the question of whether to leave the wood sticks out on the ground to see if any bite marks occurred as a way of determining the presence of termites. The argument is that, any insect may find the wood laying on the ground and start to consume the cellulose, usually from the side that is in contact with the ground. The more moisture present, the more appetizing to any insect. I was pointing out that, if you could not see the termites on the wood where it was chewed, just any insect damage was not a good way to go about determining that termites are doing the chewing. A quick flip of a piece of wood laying on the ground usually reveals the bugs hiding underneath doing the chewing and they will not always be termites.
I don't know why this came up for me, but I do have termites. I thought the only answer was tenting the house and fuminate it. I need the house to stay standing for at least ten more years.
Funny you should mention that. I was just saying to my wife, "Is making RUclips videos what my life has come to?" I started doing it when the Pandemic started and so many people were out of work. I was just trying to help out in anyway I could. Now I am busy answering about 50 questions a day. I never realized that the need was so great. Now I just stay with it and do my best to assist where I can. Thanks for watching. By the way, if you watch my videos for fun, then you may need to get a life. Lol. Be well my friend.
@@cathtf7957 How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. You do not always need to fumigate. In fact, fumigation should only be considered for drywood termites. 90% of the time the problem is subterranean termites and fumigation does not work for them. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
You are a treasure. I was quoted $6,000 for bait stations and they do not know if I even have them. Thank you so much. I live in the desert so we know subterranean termites can be here. Thank you thank you. ❤
You are very welcome. Those bait stations they want to sell you are pretty much a waste of money. This is especially true if you do not have an existing infestation. You know, inspecting for termites is not all that hard to do, so you may want to do your own self inspection, just to see if the pest controller got it right. It sounds like he isn't even sure if you have termites or not. I don't know in what world it is possible that a pest controller cannot determine if you have termites or not. Anyway, it is real easy to inspect your home for termites. Just walk around the outside of the building and look for mud tubes that are coming up from the ground. Also check the eaves to see if there any mud tubes as well. If you have a crawl space, go in there and look for mud tubes that are coming up from the ground or or anywhere on the floor joists. It is also a good idea to go into the attic and check for mud tubes there as well. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termites species. That video will show you what mud tubes look like. If you live in the desert, you may also live in an area where there are drywood termites. This video will show you how to inspect for those as well. Drywood termites are not subterranean, and they will create piles of frass that are sometimes located inside of the home, in plain sight. You will often see these along the walls and they are especially common under windows. You may also find frass under your kitchen cabinets. I think it is always a good idea to do a self inspection for termites at least every year. If you install the monitoring stations, you should check them every month. While you are walking around checking them, always look for mud tubes that may be coming up from the ground on the side of the building. If you put the monitoring stations at 4 ft intervals, it is practically impossible for the termites to miss them, but the termites do not always get the memo about how they are supposed to behave. Therefore, it is always a good idea just to glance at the side of the building to make sure that the termites did not bypass the monitoring stations. I hope that helps. Be well Virginia. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Dude! You literally saved my fence from destruction. The fipro trick worked like a charm. I bought some $8 bottles of AMDRO Quick Kill from Lowes and I sprayed it everywhere I saw termite activity and that was last week. This week, they are all gone. I'm still going to treat the entire yard with an effective termiticide focusing on the fence and I've already put a barrier around my house, I've put so many types of poison around my house since I started this journey but the Imidacloprid and Fipro suggestions you made were golden. Sending you a tip. Thank you again!
Thank you so much! for doing this. I just paid $600 for termite treatment. I will certainly watch your other videos. Great service for homeowners who don't mind spending a little time on such a useful project.
I’m happy I found your RUclips channel out of all the other ones that are there. You always get straight to the point and provide money saving advice. Thanks for all you do to keep those critters on the other side of the wall. Have a wonderful day!
Fantastic video. I had a previous house with a bad case of subterranean termites in the yard. This video had all the information I wish I had back then.Thanks!
You have done a lot of work in presenting these tips, which is very much appreciated. Providing free (and useful) advice is rare these days. Thank you, Sir.
First of all, thank you for your valuable time and awesome information. I apologize for the impatience of the RUclips crowd. The value of your information is tremendous. Well worth the time invested. I get this reaction from people all the time. I'm disabled, half of my Diaphragm is paralyzed, (among many other things). When in a conversation with others, I can see them stop listening to me, or they try to complete my sentences. It's extremely disheartening. People are more concerned about time then learning or just hearing another person. Just because you're on the internet shouldn't relive you of your manors. Great Job
New sub here in Houston. Worker replaced some wood an found white termites. Loved finding your channel. You answering most questions in detail was the clincher for me. You CARE and that means EVERTYHING. THANK YOU!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You have three species of termites where you live that are of concern. This would include drywood termites. These guys fly to your house, so they would not set off the monitoring stations. Therefore, I recommend doing an inspection on your home. I have a video on how to do this. You are mostly going to be looking for mud tubes and frass. The video will explain everything. Just get back to me with what you find. Ideally, you will also find activity. If you do, dig into it with a flathead screwdriver and try to obtain a specimen with a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die a natural death, and then get back to me. After we identify the species, we can come up with a treatment plan that works best for you. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to inspect for termites: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
Thank you very much for this video. We live in a tropical country and termites infestation is one of our biggest problems in property maintenance. We both have dry wood termites and subterranean termites. It is costly to treat them.
It sounds like you have some experience with termites, so you know that the monitoring stations do not work for drywood termites. However, they are very good at detecting subterranean termites. I recommend that you watch my video on how to treat the exterior of a building. This will prevent drywood termites. You need to do the treatment every 60 days. I will give you the link. Keep in mind that fumigation is the only way to eliminate drywood termites and the gas they use has no residual at all, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. So, you need to start the prevention before you fumigate. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the outside of a building to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
I was a LICENSED NY EXTERMINATOR.. This video was excellently formatted..and so true..Inexpensive is a great fact. I'm retired but will do this at my children's house.. So now this is Your Life..watching YT vid on termites. Pay attention ..or pay an EXTERMINATOR Thousands of $$ to do this ..for you
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. If you think it's bad spending your life watching RUclips videos, you should try spending your life making them. I'm supposed to be retired and now I am spending 5 to 8 hours a day answering questions and making videos, and I do it 6 days a week. I started doing this at the beginning of the pandemic to help people out who were out of work. I have so many people now coming to me for help that I can't stop. I never realized how great the need was. I don't have it in me to let them down. So, I am always available to answer questions and I keep making videos that folks may find useful. There you have it. That's pretty much my life now. It's only fair though. Life has been good to me over the years. I suppose it's time to give back. Be well my friend.
Termidor SC is the ticket! Trench around the perimeter of your foundation and fill with recommended dosage. The trench is tough work but worth the effort. I dug holes around my trees and installed Termidor SC there too - no more termites! 😜👍
That works if you have an active infestation, but you wouldn't want to do all that work if you do not have an active infestation. Monitoring makes sense to prevent an infestation, so that you never need to trench and go through all that work. Be well my friend.
Well explained mate - I was never previously sure of the function of monitoring stations before this video. Nice accompanying video to your other step by step assembly tutorial! 👌👍👍
you can always pick the ones who don't have the brains to be thankful and, regardless of how much or little they are entertained, watch anyway so they can get the knowledge. Learning is rarely entertaining. Thank you for sharing your knowledge sir. 👍
Brilliant DIY solution! Your goal of saving people money has been achieved many times over. Buying a home in Huntsville, AL. and will use this method to monitor termites. A razor saw or saw type blade on a standard X-acto style hobby knife is cheap and great for clean cuts on balsa wood. Wont crush the wood as it dulls. Thanks so much for such sage advice. Subscribed! and will recommend.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. I like the X-Acto knife suggestion. Be well my friend.
Did they trench or use the Sentricon system? If they trenched, then you don't need the annual insurance. Total waste of money because trenching is good for 5 to 10 years. If they used Sentricon, then you probably signed a contract for at least a year, so dump them after that year is up. The water bottle monitoring stations actually work better than Sentricon, because you can install them closer together. You can also apply granules around the house every year. I have a video on how to do that. It costs about $50 a year to do. I use both the monitoring stations and the granules, so I can't miss. So, whether they trenched or used Sentricon, you can dump them as soon as the contract is up. Please note that Home Depot and Lowes stopped selling the correct granules, so you now need to buy them from Amazon. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to use termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k2_1_6&=&crid=22WHNM2QXKLLR&=&sprefix=termit
T H A N K Y O U !!! Don't let the haters worry you! They probably WORK FOR termite companies, anyway! I personally appreciate you and your advice! Your demeanor is quite nice! I'm subbing!
What a wonderfully lucid account. How I wish there was a video just as lucidly excellent for trapping bed bugs. Congratulations on your video and the very best to you, Sir.
Thank you, Guy. Very helpful. I self treated my house two years ago but still paranoid about termites. These monitoring stations will help me rest better. :)
I live in AZ and I just recently found out that my home has an infestation. A LARGE infestation! The hard-to-treat ones that burrow up from the ground. The back yard beams need to be replaced, because it has been so long. I saw these beams when I purchased the home and was told it was only ants that needed to be treated. Later I found they were termites. ugh... So, I will watch your videos until I find the correct treatment. Thank you. I just saw another video of yours and the termites that I have at my home ARE the ones with tubes, so I now know they are not that hard to treat. Thank you for your information!
It sounds like you may have Formosan termites. These guys are very fast eaters and can do a lot of damage very quickly. I suggest watching two videos. I have one on how to identify the species and one on how to treat Formosan termites. Please ID these guys. Let me know if you have any problems and I will assist you further. Also, let me know if these are not Formosan and I will help you with that as well. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
Wow! Your video makes this intimidating subject so much less overwhelming! Thanks a bunch for this, as here in middle Tennessee we’ve both types of termites. My neighbor just got swarmed with those flying ones in July so I’m worried about those ones, though I understand these stations are the underground ones, which my garage had about 10 years ago. I can do this myself and save money! THANK YOU and God bless 💜
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. The only species of termites that are known to exist in Tennessee, at least so far, are a common species of subterranean termites. The fact that your neighbor experienced a swarm of them would suggest that they are fairly close by. Therefore, you would be wise to install the monitoring stations and apply granules around your house. For the granules to work, you need to have dirt around most of the house, and that dirt needs to be porous enough so that water will leach into it. You can do a simple test to see if your dirt is porous enough by simply digging a shallow hole right next to the foundation that is 4 inches deep and about 8 to 12 inches long. Just the width of the shovel is all you need. Fill the hole with water and see how long it takes for it to seep down into the ground. If it drains down into the ground reasonably well, then the granules should work fine for you. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. There are two versions of them now. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the right ones, but you can still get them from Amazon. I will give you a link. I will also give you a link to my video but how to apply the granules.
I hope that helps. Be well Priscilla. Video on how to use termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_5&=&crid=A0Q6FR5I5QQH&=&sprefix=termi
You have saved us so much money by sharing your awsome knowledge!!! Thank you so very much for being generous making and sharing these videos. God Bless
Great video. Your visual instructions are excellent. Such a simple method and easy to do. Another reason to avoid pest control companies that charge exorbitant prices.
Thank you so much Chris. You caught me answering questions again. I do it every morning. Let me tell you, placing these things around your home is a very good idea, especially in Florida and most especially if you live near the coast. We have Formosan termites in Florida, and they are very bad. They can eat your house so quickly that they are often called "super termites." By installing these stations around your home, you will know if you are going to get attacked and you can stop them before they reach your house. I also apply termite granules around my house every year. It only costs about $50 a year and it will stop all subterranean termites from infesting your home. It is insanely easy to do too. I will give you a link to that video. Keep in mind that termites are a problem, even if you have a block home or even if you have metal studs. Termites will eat your roof structure and your drywall too. That's right. They don't just eat wood. They will eat anything that contains cellulose. Since the paper on the drywall contains cellulose, they will definitely eat it. In pest control, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It is well worth it to apply the granules every year and also installing the monitoring stations. Please note that you can no longer buy the granules from Home Depot or Lowes. They sell the wrong granules now. You must order them from Amazon. I will give you a link for them. In fact, I placed an order today for my house and my daughter's house. I usually apply them every January, but I got busy last month, so I need to get on it. Thank you so much for watching and for your continued support. You're the best. Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html Granules: www.amazon.com/BIOADVANCED-700350A-Perimeter-Treatment-Granules/dp/B000RUIJYM/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4%3Aamzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&cv_ct_cx=termite+granules&keywords=termite+granules&pd_rd_i=B000RUIJYM&pd_rd_r=49b6cdf2-960a-466e-97e0-b447d4be0088&pd_rd_w=a0bat&pd_rd_wg=aL0Xk&pf_rd_p=eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&pf_rd_r=AQ28QNYBYCC00TCBT4WS&qid=1675419806&sr=1-1-5985efba-8948-4f09-9122-d605505c9d1e
Great Idea - I used a round sticker I found at the dollar store to cover the fluorescent spot until I finished the painting and I covered the paint with clear nail polish to protect the paint. It works Great!!!!!!!!!
I’ve been doing pest control for over 37 years. Baiting for termites has evolved to a money making scheme by the big companies, Orkin and Terminix. I don’t do baits anymore. Termidor HE is a one and done treatment for up to 15 years.
Nice to hear from an old-timer like me. I agree. This baiting thing has gotten out of hand. I do not recommend baiting as a solution for an existing termite infestation, especially if you are dealing with Formosan or Western subterranean termites. Companies are way overselling it and it ends up being very expensive for the customer. The old ways are often the best ways. Termidor HE is a great product and it saves a lot of work. However, it was only introduced in the market in 2000 and it is still just catching on. So, I am not convinced that you will get 15 years out of it. I think the jury is still out on it, because a lot of jobs were done with the last 15 years. It may be true, but I'm thinking that it will depend upon ground and climate conditions. It will most likely do better than Termidor SC though, so why not use it? Thanks for the comment. Be well my friend.
Hello, Guy! those stations are quite clever. I don't use our basement, at my age, but I was aware of an almsot 8 foot tall termite trail. WE assumed the house had been treated and was termite free. One day my heel went through the top-stair, headed down to the basement. Well, after a several estimates. (These estimates weren't about killing the termites, but the IGRs, like I mention below.--) I think my sister will spend $1,400 and have monitoring for 4 months. [And we have new steps, now.] I'm a DIY-guy; no one listens to me. These on your video were very clever, Guy. (I'm not easily impressed.) I'm waiting for my other order of pest control products, the fall ritual with fleas on my three pets. We seeded the yard with grass, so much had died out. I gave it an incredible amount of water, because that's what grass is, several inches of water on top of the ground. (I don't want to talk about my water bill, please!) I think that killed a lot of fleas! (I had an angry ground squirrel mess with me over flooding his nest!) For fleas, I have sworn by insect growth regulator hormones (IGRs) for 20 years. Opinions, Guy?? Oh, every year the flies attack my kitchen area (which has the cat litter boxes). Hundreds of flies!!!! For two months, every year. I have found dead (female??) flies behind the litter boxes once or twice! I'm getting better and this year I was even a little smarter. A can of Black Flag to hit a little onto the window areas every few days and I have a great hand vacuum with one of those "snorkel-nozzles"--I dumped that when I hit 50 or 60 flies!! JUST AWFUL! The IGR!! I'm expecting my yearly one ounce order for fleas, any day now! SPRAY THE KITCHEN FOR FLIES, TOO, RIGHT??!! Great! But, I saw a little UV light plus zapper on clearance that I thought I'd use while I was sleeping and the little buggers go to sleep too. DO FLIES RESPOND WELL TO UV LIGHTS? THIS WOULD BE PERFECT! THANK YOU, GUY. THIS IS VERY KIND OF YOU. I TAKE BACK EVERYTHING I TAKE BACK EVERY BAD THING I EVER SAID ABOUT YOU MILLIONARE BUG-GUYS, GUY! 🙂
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I will do my best to get some of this stuff unpacked for you. Let's start with the termites. It is very common these days for pest control companies to try to sell you the Sentricon System. This is nothing more than an insect growth regulator that they put in bait stations around your house. You can do the same thing yourself for about $300, simply by using a different brand. The pest control companies like it because they can install these things in under 2 hours, they are cheap to buy, and they can charge a lot of money for them. Since they use a bait, you need to pay them every year for the service, and it never ends. So this is a real cash cow for the pest control companies. Unfortunately, there are some problems with them. Probably the biggest problem with them is that the termites can miss them. That means the termites can go straight to your house and never touch any of the stations. This does not happen often, but it does happen. Also, it can take up to 2 years for them to wipe out a colony. It usually happens faster than that, but not as fast as using an actual pesticide that works on the nervous system of the termites. All insect growth regulators do is prevent the termites from reproducing. Termite workers can live up to two years, so it is possible for them to go on eating your house for that long. The idea is that they're going to eat the bait instead, and hopefully die off before 2 years, which does happen. Still, these things are all possible, and so you will usually see in the contract that they do not guarantee that the stations are going to work. In other words, you will usually find a disclaimer in the contract. Since you have an active infestation already, then you should treat it, but this is something that you can easily do yourself. Since you had termite inspections done, and they suggested bait stations, that would suggest that these are subterranean termites. How you treat them will depend upon the species. 90% of the time they are very easy to treat either with granules or by trenching. However, in some areas of the country, there are species that are a bit more difficult. Therefore it is important to know where you live. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termites species. There is a map in that video that will show you where Formosan termites are a problem. If you live in either the red or orange area on the map, then you need to figure out what species you are dealing with. If you live outside of the red or orange areas on the map, then you most likely have a very common species of subterranean termites. So, please watch the video, and also please tell me where you live. In most cases, you can treat the entire problem effectively for under $100. While insect growth regulators would not be my first choice for termites, they do work very well for fleas. IGRs are bit pricey, but they do get the job done. Of course, for maximum effect, you need to treat the entire lawn. So, if what you are doing is working for you, then I would recommend that you just stick with it. The thing you need to understand about flies is that they require a breeding area. This is true for just about any pest you can imagine, but with flies it can be a bit tricky. Breeding areas for flies can include dead animals, animal feces, and that sort of thing. One of the most common areas where you will find breeding going on are trash cans. A lot of people throw all sorts of things in their trash can, like food scraps, that are not contained in a sealed plastic bag. This allows a perfect opportunity for flies to breed in the can. Unfortunately, it is not enough for you to keep your trash can clean. If your neighbor has a fly problem in their trash can, the flies are more than happy to stop by and pay you a visit. Therefore, finding and treating the breeding areas can be somewhat challenging. I mean, you cannot possibly treat a breeding area unless you know where it is, and you have access to it. So, the first thing you need to do is figure out where these flies are coming from, and then treat that with a pesticide. I can tell you that I volunteer to treat my neighbor's trash cans every 2 months and they are happy to let me do it. It's no big deal because treating a trash can takes under a minute. I use Bifen IT in a pump up garden sprayer. This product has up to a 90-day residual, but I normally do my exterior pest control every 60 days, so I just catch the trash cans at that time. I also treat my entire lawn and the exterior of my house every 60 days. For that I use Bifen XTS in a hose end sprayer. This kills just about everything on my lawn, and anything that may survive that, will get killed if it tries to get in the house. So, I am totally pest-free. Unfortunately, one of the only things that the Bifen XTS does not do well with are fleas. Anyway, as I am treating the lawn and the exterior of the house, I walk around looking for possible breeding areas for flies. While I am at it, I also look for breeding areas from mosquitoes as well. In addition to inspecting my property, I also inspect the neighbor's yards as well. I do not treat their yards, but I will eliminate a fly or mosquito Breeding areas. With regard to the UV bug zappers, they can work for flies, but you need one that uses the correct light wavelength and that cycle really fast. Most of the UV light traps that you can buy cycle at around 50 cycles per second, which is too slow for the flies to really see it. The reason for that is somewhat complicated, but the short answer is that flies do not see light the same way as humans do. You can buy some of these bug zappers that cycle light at around 10,000 cycles per second. This is what you would really need for a light zapper to be effective. Also you would want the light wavelength to be between 300 to 420 nanometers. The problem that you run into is that most of the bug zappers are going to boast about how much voltage they put out, which quite frankly does not make a lot of difference. They will all probably kill a fly if it flies into one of them. So, if you go on Amazon, then you may have some difficulty finding a bug zapper that meets your specifications. Obviously, I cannot be familiar with all the makes of bug zappers in the world, but I do believe that you can buy a bug zapper that is very effective from domyown.com. The Vector Fly Lights should meet these specifications. I will give you a link to just one of them, but I think domyown.com has a a couple of them to select from. Amazon has lots of bug zappers for under $50, but you get what you pay for. One of the Vector models is going to cost at least around $190. That is because it costs money to meet the specifications necessary to create an effective trap for flies. Also, the Vector models are very well made and are professional grade. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termites species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to treat the outside of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to treat your yard: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html Fly zapper: www.domyown.com/vector-plasma-one-p-1187.html?sub_id=1188
Thank you very much. I watched your video and found it very very informative and i really appreciate that you spent a lot of time to make it so that it reaches a larger audience. Thanks Guy again.
It's nice to find a professional willing to share their years of experience and knowledge. Much respect for you, sir. My problem is with exterminating termites within a vaulted ceiling (home built 1960). This is not a full blown infestation yet. By placing white sheets of styrofoam around the inside perimeter of the room we have identified one sqft area where droppings/black spec's (same size as the dot in this ?mark symbol) falling from ceiling. Guesstimate 100 spec's per day. droppings from 'pushout' holes. Above ceiling is roof solar panels. The vaulted ceiling is built of 4"x4" 45deg struts to pitch of roof, with horizontal 1/2" X 6" flat wood. All wood is stained and solid. Other than tenting the whole house how can the identified area be treated for termites. I tried the cans of foam with the tiny straw to spray in the cracks but standing on ladder it ain't easy and cracks are wide enough to fit the straw. I was thinking, couldn't plastic be attached to 4x4 struts and fumigate that air tight zone? What are your thoughts.
You didn't tell me where you live, but I'm guessing you live in drywood termite territory. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species and let me know if you are in the red area on the map that is in the video. What you described is consistent with drywood termites, so let's work on the assumption that is what this is. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home, but you cannot see the evidence of it. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Unfortunately, you cannot spot fumigate. You need to fumigate the entire house. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
As everybody knows termites do not carry measuring devices so they won't know if they're not accurately space either just thought I would add that this is a good idea I'm liking it so far
I had termite guys come out last year and installed stations every 10 feet part! And didn’t put them at my drip line or along my driveway… I also asked about why the paint coloring and got the answer … 👍🏼
Today we had a free home inspection from a reputed pest control company and he said that bait stations are recommended. Total charge for the service would be nearly $2000. Then I saw your video. Now I am going to do bait stations on my own. Thanks for your video, Sir.
Smart move. The company you were dealing with was most likely trying to sell you the Sentricon baiting system. That system is a total rip off. In my judgment, it amounts to a legal scam. I am so happy that you didn't fall for it. This is usually pushed by some of the national companies who do not even send out actual pest controllers. They send out trained salespeople. They work on commission, and their only objective is to rip you off for as much money as they can. Most of the local mom-and-pop pest controllers will not even sell the product. The companies that sell this garbage really give the industry a bad name. You did not tell me if you actually have an infestation or not. If you do not have an existing infestation, then the monitoring stations depicted in this video should serve you well. However, keep in mind that these are not bait stations. The difference is that monitoring stations will alert you to the presence of termites. Bait stations actually kill them. The idea behind the monitoring stations is to alert you to the presence of termites, before they attack your house. Then you can use a bait station to kill them. They are not really designed to use for an existing infestation. If you have an existing infestation, I can tell you how to treat it for under $100. Also, there's a new product that came on the market recently that can prevent termites for about $30 a year. This product can also treat an existing infestation as well. I am currently in production on a video on how to properly use it. I anticipate that video should be posted by the end of next week. If you subscribe to the channel, then you should receive a notification when the video posts. I think it is still a good idea to use the monitoring stations, but using both will give you an added layer of protection. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Gday Guy, you are good man for the honest help you put out here. Tyvm Sir. Ravi it’s good to hear you didn’t get ripped off mate. 👍 I’m from Sydney and it’s been a few occasions over about a fortnight we have had fliers come into our house via the open skylight louvre window. Only today I figured out they were dry wood termites!! I’m literally taking time of work to do everything thing I can to mitigate the situation. Really I have no idea what I’m doing. Any help would be appreciated.
@@et5712 Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. The first thing you need to do is to make sure that you have the species correct. Flying termites are not limited to drywood termites. Subterranean termites can swarm as well. Also, if you see them in the house, they may not have come in through the skylight. It is possible that they are coming out of the walls, or the woodwork in your home. They can exit from tiny holes in your drywall or woodwork, that you may not even see. Unfortunately, you have a couple of subterranean species in Sydney that are very destructive. So, you want to make sure that you are not dealing with one of these species, because they get treated much differently. For example, you have Coptotermes acinaciformis, which I think are commonly known as Australian subterranean termites or costal brown termites. This species does an impressive amount of damage in your area. There are a couple of other species as well, but I think you get the point. It is very important to identify the species correctly, and then direct your treatment accordingly. That being said, if these are drywood termites, then I can probably tell you everything you need to know about them. So, please try to catch one of the swarmers and then Google "West Indian drywood termite alates." If you have drywood termites, that is most likely the species. Keep in mind that drywood termites are not as common in Sydney as subterranean termites. You do have them, but most of the time, you are being attacked by subterranean termites. So, I cannot rule out drywood termites, but it is definitely worth checking to be sure that you have it right. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@ I got photos and kept two captured. With and without wings. Will need to inspect the skylight again but I don’t see that they are settled in my home but rather flying into it. With a little extra research they seem to be subterranean type swarmers. The main difference is the head Color being darker than the rest and wings were light coloured.
@@et5712 If the head and body is an orange/brownish color and the wings are kind of a light color, then these are most likely drywood termites. They could be coming in through the skylight, but these guys can and do infest all areas of your home. They enter into any crack or crevice they can find in the outside of the building and then they eat their way into the wood to establish a gallery. Most of the time, they enter through multiple openings around the building. The only good thing about them is that they are very slow eaters, but they will eventually do a lot of damage. Please let me know if they fit the description I just mentioned. Be well my friend.
Hey Guy, You just got a new subscriber! I appreciate your help. What an awesome instructional on bait stations. I just found some mud tunnels in my basement on an inner wall of the pantry. I will be watching all your videos and learning about that. I bought boric acid for diy treatment. I don't know how that will work. Have you ever read up on boric acid recipes?
Please watch my video on termites vs boric acid. There are two options for treating subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. I have videos on how to do both options and I will place links below.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
You can give any subterranean termite treatment a bit of a boost by doing a spot treatment. If at all possible, spot treating for subterranean termites should not be the only approach to eliminate an infestation. An additional exterior treatment should also be done with either granules or trenching, whenever possible. Spot treating alone may totally eliminate the infestation with no other treatments, but it's not a sure thing.
To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. If you have a slab home, then you may find them going up the outside of the house on the slab and even the side of the house. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites. Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on termites vs boric acid: ruclips.net/video/Th07AIMvpvQ/видео.html Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_7&=&crid=1UJA4PE31UWZW&=&sprefix=termite FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
@@GuysPestSolutions I will follow your detailed instructions exactly. One more thing that I should include is that I use the shallow well in the same room as the infestation. It is run through a Berkey Purifier before it's used for drinking and cooking, but not bathing. However it looks like they are probably entering from the direction of the perpendicular wall 90° in that corner of the basement. Upon further inspection they are in damp/wet base cinder blocks on the concrete pad as the couple exterior mud tunnels I first saw. They liked the cardboard boxes containing jars. I see that most of the water supply for the well is from the other wall. As long as my bait stations are left alone in that section of wall supplying the well, I think I'll avoid granules or trenching there. Your good description of use in the wood sounds like there's no reason the pesticide should enter the well. My only concern would be perculation from the other wall, which I don't think enters the ground water to any degree. The soil here is clay with a 6"- 9" ribbon of top soil. The possibility exists of termites entering under a patio block porch on the well side. Water falls directly into a small ditch in front the porch roof to drain past and down hill. I will set a lot of stations there. I see no mud tunnels on inside perimeter walls yet; just that interior basement room block wall. I will follow your detailed response and watch the other videos you linked. I already saw the one on Boric Acid. It was Excellent. Thank you ever so much for the amount of time and information you have provided me. I am very grateful for all of your help and hope I can return the blessing sometime. I will try to send as many friends to your channel as I know and ask them to subscribe. It's good to have you as a new friend too. ☕☺️👍
*Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. My father owns homes and apartments all over California. So, these are excellent pest control videos.*
Longer is probably better, but the termites will probably find the station, even if it is not quite as deep. Thanks for those kind words. Be well my friend.
I recommend that you try to identify the species. Different species get treated differently. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy, and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with the link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Though this "Guy" has correct information on termites, his method is flawed! I have more times than I can remember seeing termites inside a home without a single bit of activity in any termite monitoring stations on the exterior. Best method is doing a traditional termite treatment using a non-repellant termiticide, preferably termidor. 40 years experience speaking here!
Subterranean termites require moisture, just look for the mud tubes. If you can find those your ordeal can be over sooner. I saved all the permanent markers I had when they dried out. I then removed the inner part of the body of the markers, drilled 1/8 inch holes top and bottom. I mixed sawdust and a termicide together and packed the marker bodies until I couldn't pack in any more. I then pushed the markers into the ground around my foundation at 18 inch intervals. The termites will find these and help themselves to a ready but deadly meal that can be easily refilled. Hope this helps!
@@stevesantiago9660 you are the man! We’ve been outside and under the house and can not locate the tubes. They’ve been eating the house here for a while me. I’m just going to plant the markers all the way around the foundation.
excellent! I'm all about DIY before calling/spending on a commercial solution. Thanks for sharing your knowledge & experiences. Greg [garden grove, CA usa]
bro~~ nice vid! the commentary is slow as hell HOWEVER i'm grateful for the precise and clear instruction and explanation. learned it once slowly and clearly. thank you!
I am so sorry, but I need to tell you that, if your neighbor had their house tented, that means they had drywood termites. These guys are not subterranean, so they do not attack from the ground. They literally fly to your house and then infest the wood. There is a 99.9% chance that you are already infested. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you already have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html Video on how to treat drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@umadev6077 You are best not to fool around with termites. The reason we use pesticides is because they work. We no longer use pesticides from last century. We are now in the 21st century and we use 21st century pesticides. They are safe and effective. So safe that a child can play on the treated areas after they dry. Please watch my video on the subject. Link below. Be well my friend. ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
@Guy's Pest Solutions , could the Basile wood be soaked in Fipronil before they're placed in the monitor? Also, could the*free* wood paint stirrer sticks from hardware stores be used as an alternative bait stick? Or cardboard? Thanks, I appreciate your videos! Very helpful for those of us who can't afford to pay professionals or even afford professional bait systems!!! A+++
@@itsjustme167 Yes. You can soak the wood with fipronil or even Bora-Care if you wish. Also, I suppose that using paint mixing sticks should probably work just fine. I do not think cardboard would be a good option because it will most likely deteriorate too quickly and may become too moldy from the moisture in the ground. Termites do not like a whole lot of mold on their food source. The only reason I use cardboard around the bottle opening is to make it easier to line up the top of the stick with the bottom center of the bottle. While termites will eat cardboard, I do not think it is the best option for making these devices. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How often do u change out the termite poison for the bait cartages? That is when u find that u have termites on your property. And do u need to have gloves on because the termites can smell human scent? I have read that. Thanks for your videos. Love your channel.
Just to be clear, you do not need to change the wood that is in the water bottle stations, but that wood is going to go bad after a while. It is only balsa wood and it will eventually decay under the ground. At that point you will need to replace the station. Pretty much all stations have the same problem. With regard to the actual bait stations that you use to kill the termites, the Advance stations have a pretty large bait capacity and you can actually put two cartridges in them at the same time. You just stack them one on top of the other. That will probably give you enough bait to take out most colonies. However, you should check about every month to make sure that there's still plenty of bait in there for the termites to munch on. The bait cartridges are see-through, so you can tell how much bait has been eaten. If there's still plenty of bait, then just replace the cartridge back in the station. If the bait is almost eaten, then go ahead and replace it. You can also build your own bait station that works faster than the Advance system. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. If you use the homemade system, then you need to check it every few days because it does not contain as much bait as the Advanced system. However, the homemade system will eliminate the colony within 12 weeks, whereas the advanced system can't take up to two years. Oftentimes it is much faster than that, but not always. That is because the Advance system uses an insect growth regulator that simply stops the termites from reproducing. The homemade stations actually use a poison that the termites will take back to the colony with them and spread it around to the other termites. They will all eat it and death will occur pretty fast. The bait in the homemade station does not stop them from reproducing. It simply kills them straight out. Since termite workers can live up to two years, you can see why using an insect growth regulator can sometimes be a fairly slow process. It still works, albeit a bit slower. You do not need to wear gloves when handling the Advance bait cartridges. The termites can probably smell your sent, and that may give them some reason to pause, but they are typically pretty hungry, so I think it is unlikely that they will avoid the bait. However, you do need to wear gloves when you are handling the homemade bait cartridges, if they are still wet. You do not need to wear gloves when handling the bait cartridge if it is dry. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to make bait stations: ruclips.net/video/r05Z-aUJehw/видео.html
This is Michael. Thank you you for this great information. You really do need to go a lot faster in the future, but your information is valuable and much appreciated. I've noticed that Amazon sells some termite warning kits. And it's actually cheaper to buy a whole new kit than to buy replacements. So by some kits and use them around the house if you don't want to take all the time to make a hundred of these for a large house
I don't know what to say. I'm 73 and not in a rush anymore. At this point, I'm just happy to wake up in the morning. Lol. However, I did manage to get my latest video under 11 minutes. I will give you a link to it. It pairs well with this video. I have a homemade bait station that you can use instead of ones that you buy. Mine works a lot faster. Do not buy the kits on Amazon. They are most likely the Spectracide Termite Stakes and they don't work. I have a video on that too. Be well Kathy. Video on how to make a bait station: ruclips.net/video/r05Z-aUJehw/видео.html Video on Spectracide Termite Stakes: ruclips.net/video/UDzg-1lpynA/видео.html
Painting tip. Stick a small square of masking tape over the orange patch on the bottle base and spray paint it. After enough coates finally remove tape.
Very glad i have a steel framed house and brick walls. Some wood internal bits and pieces still no doubt but i think the termites would have a hard time getting to them? have heard from the neighbours (who have wooden houses) there a termites in the fences. When they are ready I'll pay my bit to put up metal fences. I really liked this video though an im tempted to put some monitoring stations in just for fun. Thank you so much
Building with metal studs is a great way to help deter termites, but it generally does not stop them. While it is true that the termites are not going to eat the metal studs, they will have no problem dining on your drywall. That's right. Everybody thinks termites eat wood, which is true, but it's not actually the wood that they are eating. Termites actually eat cellulose. The reason they eat wood is because would contains cellulose. Well, drywall also contains cellulose, so the termites a happy to eat that as well. Also, is your roof made of metal as well? Is your entire roof structure made of metal, including the sheathing that is under the shingles? Unless you have a slab home, are the floor joists and floor underlayment made out of metal? While it is possible for floor joists to be made out of steel, it would be pretty unusual for the underlayment to be anything other than wood. So you see, there may be more potential for termite damage then you realize. You can build with treated lumber, but termites can eat that too, unless it is rated for ground contact. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions Hi, thanks for the reply! My entire house structure is steel, the roof is steel sheeting, also joists, etc, and under the floor. Everything is glorious inedible steel, It's a 2-story house. With a concrete slab. The upper floor is MDF. It's a partical board material I've researched online that termites will have a go at chip board. The walls are what we call plaster boards here in australia, which I'm guessing is similar to dry wall. Both neighbours have lovely wooden Queenlander styler houses. I wasn't even overly concerned and just happened upon your video and I'm glad I did.I will keep the knowledge in mind. Thanks kindly, take care
@@dougrogan379 It sounds like you are in good shape. I guess you need to worry more about rust than termites. Lol. Just kidding. I guess you didn't pay much for that house because it must have been a "steel." I'm sorry. I couldn't resist that one. Well done mate. Be well my friend.
I understand your structure, and you seem to be okay. But I live in Florida, and there are a lot of people here with cement block houses who think they are safe from termites but the termites tunnel in the interior wall up to the roof joists and collapse the roof on the houses. It happens a lot, so I wrote this not so much for your sake but for others who might be reading it
@@kpv123 You are correct. Not only that, there are usually wooden studs that pad out those concrete blocks on the interior, to hang the drywall and run the wiring. Very few homes are safe from termites. Be well Kathy.
This video was not so useful for me as I live in an apartment in a gated community. Yet, i went through the video, as I was curious how the trick worked. By the way, this video is very good tool for testing one's patience 😊
I'm glad you watched the video, but it really was not made for entertainment purposes. It was created for people who need to monitor for termites inexpensively and want to know how it all works. It's interesting because I posted 2 versions of this video at the same time. One of them was only 9 minutes long, but did not include an explanation about why it worked. The longer version was viewed 10 times more than the shorter version. I did not expect that at all. RUclips didn't want both versions posted because they were really the same thing, so I removed the one that most people didn't watch. Apparently, there are those who want the full explanation and those that just want to know how to make the thing and install it, but the people who want the full explanation way outnumber the ones who don't. Again, very surprising to me, but I went with the majority. Be well my friend.
Thanks for this video, it's very informative. A couple questions if you don't mind: 1) If termites are already feeding on the wood of my home, will they have any reason to switch to the wood in a monitoring station? 2) For lazy guys like me, what if I just drive a 1" x 2" bare softwood stake about 10" deep into the ground and pull those up every 2 months. Would that be a good indicator of termites in the area?
If you have termites in your home already, then they probably will not go after the monitoring stations. However, some of the commercial bait stations have an attractant in them that may lure them to it. Not a sure thing though. If you have termites already, you need to first identify the species. Not all species are subterranean. Please watch my video on how to do that. Putting stakes in the ground at 4 foot intervals around the house will also work, but that's a lot of stakes to pull up every month or two. It's a lot faster to use the monitoring stations. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Fipronil is what I use in my voids around sill plates when I first started I thought I wants infested but they were eating my vinyl fence post expensive post coved with vinyl and made with what appears to be spruce lol
Thank you, sir, so much wisdom & knowledge you have acquired during your lifetime for sharing & pouring your heart...!!! I need more from you ...all the very best ... Love from Australia...
I am a fan of cheap, effective DIY solutions. Thanks for sharing this! To be fair - a commercial monitoring system like Sentricon includes an insurance policy that will cover repairs on your structure up to $1m. There is certainly a value to that. Do you have thoughts about Sentricon? Take care and God Bless.
I have a video that is in production right now it talks about that very issue. This video should be posted sometime next week. The short answer is that the Sentricon system is fine for monitoring termite activity, and perhaps even preventing it, but I wouldn't use it for an existing investigation, particularly if you are dealing with an aggressive species, such as Formosan termites. If you subscribe to my channel, you'll be notified when this video is posted, and it will answer all your questions about using a bait as opposed to trenching. As for the insurance, please read what Pete N posted. It sounds like he's been there. Be well my friend.
The problem with cardboard is that it will easily decay and become more unattractive to the termites. The only reason I use it in the bottles is as a spacer. It is the wood that does the job. Now, you could dip the sticks in Bora-Care, and that would permanently make them a poison to the termites, but it will greatly increase the cost and time to make the stations. You don't need to kill the termites right off. It could be years before one of the stations goes off and you can easily kill the termites after the station becomes active. Fipronil foam will do a way better job than a borate product. If you have an active station, just drill a small hole in the top of the bottle and fill it with the foam. The only problem is that there isn't that much wood in the station, so I would not just treat the station. That is why I suggest installing the Advance station next to the bottle station that is triggered. Doing so will take out the entire colony. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy! I am considering spending a lot of money on pest control and wanted to ask your opinion first. Three years ago our split level house in Hawaii was flooded by a leak upstairs, and we had the whole house gutted down to the studs. We completely renovated our kitchen, which is upstairs, with new cabinets in late 2021/ early 2022. For the past year we've seen the termite droppings/frass under 3 specific corner cabinets, but nowhere else. My suspicion is that the eggs were in the new cabinets. In the last year we've seen the frass nowhere else in the home, but consistently under these three cabinets about every month or so. My question is this: should I tear out the cabinets to save the rest of the house? Or should I tent the house or fumigate the kitchen only? Or is there something else that I should consider? I'm willing to tent the whole house, but it seems like the termites are in this one specific area. I've never seen a termite, only the droppings, and there are no apparent holes or mud tracks that are visible...just the droppings on the counters under the cabinets. Please help!
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. There is an outside chance that you may be correct. It is possible that the drywood termites were in your cabinets when you installed them. If you have not seen any swarmers (flying termites) then it is possible that the gallery in the cabinets has not matured to the point where the infestation can spread to other areas of the house. Since drywood termites are very slow eaters, you do have the luxury of time, so I think it's worth treating the cabinets first before you decide to fumigate the entire house. I must be honest with you though. I cannot rule out the possibility that you became infested from your neighbor's house. Still, even if that were the case, your home is not in any danger at the moment. It takes many years for drywood termites to do significant damage. This is why you do have the luxury of time here. Personally, I would treat the cabinets instead of removing them. You indicated that you didn't see any holes in the cabinets. I can assure you though that there are holes. You just need to find them. These holes are quite small and can be difficult to detect. You need to look directly above where you are seeing the frass. Gravity is your friend here. The frass it's going to fall straight down from the hole. That means the hole is located directly above the frass on a vertical plane somewhere along the cabinet surface. This hole is going to be very tiny, so you need to look carefully. If the frass is on the inside of the cabinet, then remove the shelves and look where the shelf meets the wall of the cabinet. The hole could be hidden where the shelf contacts the wall of the cabinet. If the frass is below the outside surface of the cabinet, be sure to look at the ceiling. Make sure that the frass is coming from the cabinet and not the ceiling. There must be a hole because it is impossible for the frass to be pushed out without one. Each pile of frass is going to have a hole above it. After you find the holes, they can be treated with a fipronil foam. You simply shoot the foam into each hole for about 7 seconds, or until the foam is coming back out of the hole. The problem is that you are not allowed to purchase pesticides in Hawaii. Unless you know somebody on the mainland that can ship it to you, you are going to need to hire a pest control to do this for you. Just tell them that you want to spot treat the cabinets, and you have already identified the kick out holes. You can tell them the exact treatment that you want them to perform. If you want to treat this yourself, but you do not know anybody who can ship you the foam, then try ordering it from eBay. Sometimes there are people who will ship it to you, either because they don't know the law, or they don't care about the law. Also, try ordering Fuse Foam from Amazon. They are not supposed to ship it to you, but they are very busy, and the person filling the order may not realize that they are shipping the product to you illegally. Sometimes it works. You can treat this problem with either Fuse Foam or Termidor Foam. So, if you try eBay, if you can't get one of them, then try the other. You may just get lucky. If you must hire pest controller, ask for a free inspection. Don't tell them what you want them to do until they arrive at your house. Just ask for a free termite inspection. After the pest controller arrives, then explain what you want them to do, and get a price for it. If it's more than a couple of hundred dollars, then thank them for their time and try another pest controller. You can get as many free estimates as you wish. My recommendation is to stay away from the national companies. They often send trained salespeople instead of actual pest controllers. These folks work on commission, so they try to sell you stuff that you don't need. Some of them are going to try to tell you that you need to fumigate the entire house, and while that may be true, we don't know that yet. Remember that you do have the luxury of time here. You can always fumigate later if you see any of the evidence of termites. For now, you just need to get the cabinets treated, and you need to do it before you start to see swarmers. Since the pest controller is going to do a free inspection, you may as well let them inspect the entire house, just to see if they find evidence of termites anywhere else. It is a good idea to shadow the inspector. If he sees a place where he suspects termites, you want to see it. Don't just take his word for it. If you are with him while he is inspecting, he can point it out to you as he is seeing it. If he is not seeing frass and kick out holes, then ask him to explain why he suspects termites in that spot. If he does locate frass or kick out holes in other areas of the home, then you will need to fumigate the house. If that is the case, then get as many estimates as you can. Prices can vary wildly in this industry, so it pays to shop. Please let me know if that is the case, because I have important information that you need to know before you fumigate. If you use a mom-and-pop company instead of a national company, the inspector may just get a can of foam and treat it while he is there. This will save money. Again, the national companies often do not send out pest controllers who will be driving a pest control truck. They may arrive in a company car with no pesticides with them. That is because they are not licensed to treat anything. The mom-and-pop guy will probably show up in the truck he uses to treat jobs, so it is likely he will give you a good price to just do it now, if it's just treating the cabinets. I mean, he's there already, so it's just another 10 minutes of his time. If I was inspecting, I would probably treat it for free, just to obtain you as an ongoing customer. Not only would you use me for future problems, but you would brag about me to your friends and family. That's a good investment for $10 worth of foam. Not all pest controllers think that way though. Just the smart ones. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi there, thank you for this very helpful tip. Do termites attack exterior concrete brick walls (Autoclaved Aerated Concrete to be exact). The AAC block manufacturers advertise their blocks to not attract termites, unlike wood. The only wood in the house will probably be the interior walls. Thanks for taking time to address my question. I appreciate your time.
Termites do not attack concrete or brick and they do not have the ability to chew through it. However, they can find cracks and crevices in the concrete, or pipe penetrations that they can get through. Therefore, if you have wood in the house, then the termites may have the ability to find their way to it. Most of the time, even block houses have wood attached to the blocks on the exterior walls to allow the drywall to be hung, and the electrical wiring, and some of the plumbing to be run in the house. Your roof structure is most likely also made of wood, and it is not uncommon for the termites to find their way inside the blocks and then then build mud tubes up to the attic. This is particularly true if you live in a southern coastal state, California, or Hawaii. You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions This is a most insightful response that will tremendously. Thank you for spending time to share with us what you know. I sincerely appreciate your expertise.
thank you so much for that wonderful presentations .I am in the Philippines and it is a tropical country can you make a video for dry wood termites thank you in advance more power to you.
Thank you so much for those kind words. I do have a video on drywood termites. Actually, I have three of them. I will give you the links. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html Video on drywood termite treatment options: ruclips.net/video/iD6NTU16-XQ/видео.html
Very useful video! I've got a question: I've noticed worker termites about 25 feet away from my house eating on an old rotten stump. Should I be worried about getting termites in the house?
You should be very worried. I recommend that you do an inspection on your house and I recommend that you treat the stump. I will give you a link to my video on how to inspect for termites. Please let me know if you have them in the house and I will guide you further. To treat the stump drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817 Video on how to inspect for termites: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
@GuysPestSolutions First off: I didn't think you'd respond. However, you ARE for real!!! Thanks a million! To be honest, I was very worried about what I'd found out. That's how I saw your video and actually almost your entire video library. That's also the reason for returning the termite monitoring stations I bought back to Lowes, lol. That rotten stump is in front of the house along with two other live trees, about 25-30 ft from the slab. I was about to lay new mulch, and the bags were staying for a week or two. When I removed one of them(being on top of that stump), I saw the termites(maybe a handful). As soon as they were exposed, they disappeared inside that rotten stump. Now I know I have a colony nearby. As far as the house, we bought it in 2021, and the termite inspection showed no signs of termite activity (including mud tubes), but that was 3 years ago. I'll watch your video that sent me and perform house inspection, and I'll share the discoveries if you don't mind. Once again, I appreciate your response! Harry
@@unbiasedreviews5978 Always my pleasure. Most RUclipsrs do not respond to questions because they would rather spend the time creating more videos to make more money, but I answer all of them and I do it in great detail. I don't do RUclips for the money. It's more about providing people with the assistance they need to save some money. So, I spend most of my time answering questions instead of making new videos. Just my way of paying it forward and I am more than happy to do it. You can feel free to ask me anything you like. Be well Harry.
Now this is for flying “dry wood” termites. I place a large brown of water under a light. When the termites are flying on a humid day at evening in Spring, they will fly right into the bowl with water.
No. This is not for drywood termites. This is for subterranean termites. If you see swarmers in your home, then you have an infestation. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: How to Prevent Drywood Termites 100% Guaranteed. Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: How to Treat a Drywood Termite Infestation Yourself. A MUST see if you have Drywood termites.
@@GuysPestSolutions live in an area where we are well familiar with termites, both types. Yes they fly each year on warm, wind still, humid days around this time in May. Yes you are right the house needs to be fumigated and will be. In one of my homes a Professional even found an entire Foam Mattress in a storage area used by termites as their Nest. Quite unique and not even the Exterminator had ever seen anything like that.
Of course I want to do everything to kill or discourage (which I don’t think is possible) those termites to attack my home. My concern are those poisons on the health of humans. What else is there to kill them? Always searching for new innovative ideas. Will they get into PVC? I have changed to steel instead of wood, but es you say, they still find a way in to find wood.
@@DPoppell The termites cannot get through PVC. If you are concerned about the health aspects of pesticides, then please watch my video on the subject. Most pesticides are very safe now. Fumigation is still dangerous, but there are no health hazards after the job is finished. I hope that helps. Video explaining how safe pesticides really are: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My question is whether pine or fir wood is suitable. I have lots of scraps of two by fours, etc. that I can easily saw into half-inch by half inch pieces.
Termites will eat most wood types. I used balsa wood because it is easy to work with and the termites will make short work of it because it is so soft, but pine or fir is fine. Be well my friend. If you have tools, then use a drill to create a little hollow space in the tip of the stick. It will seat into the bottom of the bottle better, so it won't slip out easily. Most bottles have a little bump in the bottom center from manufacturing. So, just a little hole in the end will secure the stick better. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
You seem like a good dude, thanks for putting out this helpful, thorough and informative content! I believe I have termites inside of one of my structures (Ohio) and hope they aren't the drywood type, I'm not in a tropical environment so I can only assume it's the subterranean ones. This was my first video so I'll have to watch more to educate myself on the subject. Thanks again!
The only species you have in Ohio are a common type of subterranean termites that are very easy to treat. There are two options for treating subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. I have videos on how to do both options and I will place links below.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
You can give any subterranean termite treatment a bit of a boost by doing a spot treatment. If at all possible, spot treating for subterranean termites should not be the only approach to eliminate an infestation. An additional exterior treatment should also be done with either granules or trenching, whenever possible. Spot treating alone may totally eliminate the infestation with no other treatments, but it's not a sure thing.
To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. If you have a slab home, then you may find them going up the outside of the house on the slab and even the side of the house. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites. Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_5&=&crid=A0Q6FR5I5QQH&=&sprefix=termi FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
Your my hero! My 74 year old landlady has termites. I am her tenant, I'm 71. Because of your site us silver ladys are confident we can defeat these house eaters! We thank you.
That is so kind of you to assist your landlady like that. You cannot treat termites with the water bottle stations. They are just used to find out if you have termites and where they are located. There are sometimes very easy ways to treat them and I would be happy to assist you with that. The first thing you need to do is determine the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well Marian.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
I live in Bessemer City N.C ! What types of termites are the most prevalent here?
Thank you for your videos!! What about adding a bait station in the attic, in case they get into the house?
I like the long video with all the talking, this gentleman explains everything
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you so very much for this information as well as the incredible ability to teach even a novice such as myself. Your rate of speech, relaxed tone of voice and clarity of your voice. Those three things are what held my attention the entire length of the video. The information contained within the video is very valuable and the monitoring system with expansion is extremely low in cost. The monitoring system is ingenious. The fact that went one step further in providing treatment options is the sign of someone who truly cares about helping others.
Thank you for this invaluable video. I will be watching other past videos and waiting for that bell to ring on my end.
Sincerely,
Buffie
That was such a kind comment for you to make. Very much appreciated. You totally made my day. Thank you so much. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Be well Buffie.
I don't own a house, and I don't have any immediate use for this information, but yet the clear and concise manner in which it was presented tells me that you are the guy to go to for when I do have a problem.
His presentation is awesome!
This is awesome! Excellent information. Superb presentation. Well done.
I've never like, subscribe, share and comment all in one, but you sir deserve it.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@@Nrekredloh Thank you so much. That is really nice of you to say. Be well my friend.
@@Nrekredloh I really appreciate those kind words. Thank you so much for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for sharing this wise and useful information. Sent from Australia where termites are very common !
You have some interesting species of termites in Australia and some of them can be challenging to treat. Be well my friend.
Reading through these comments....unbelievable the lack of respect and kindness that's out there in the world. Geezer!? Really? Some people suck.
Be kind...... this is great information all the way around. I'm not sure that I'll be able to take the time to implement it, but I'd probably buy them from you if it were an option!
Thanks for taking the time to create this video. It's a great education
Thank you so much for those kind words. I guess we live in a Tik Tok world today where everyone wants the solutions to all their problems in 2 minutes or less. If only everything in the world worked that way. The truth is though that, for every negative comment I receive, I get many more positive comments, so I think most people appreciate what I do. So, I kind of believe the majority. It's folks like you that make it worthwhile doing. I truly do appreciate your support. You are very kind. You can purchase these already made, but they cost about $15 each. I don't make or sell them, but I will give you a link to the company that does. Of course, they don't make them out of used water bottles. Do not place them any further apart than 8 feet. Be well my friend.
Red Eye monitoring stations: www.solutionsstores.com/red-eye-termite-monitor
@GuysPestSolutions hi guy! Thanks for the reply. I
Tik-Tok world indeed! Hey I had a question for you, is there any reason why you couldn't just lay those sticks out if the foundation of your house or four feet out in the yard as you suggested without the bottle or any of the other details? Wouldn't you see the bite marks from the termites on the pieces of wood individually? If in fact the termites existed at all? Thanks again for taking the time to write much Aloha to you
You want a visual confirmation if possible. Other bugs eat wood too, but won't cause the problems with buildings as do termites. @@poolbritekonahawaii1265
@@rockymntain That is not correct. Only termites will eat wood underground. Carpenter ants have the ability to tunnel through wood underground, but there isn't enough wood in the stations to be of much interest to carpenter ants. These guys do not eat wood like termites do, so it's not a food source for them. Therefore, if one of the stations goes off, then it either malfunctioned because the wood slipped out of place, or there is a 99.9% chance you have termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Was addressing the question of whether to leave the wood sticks out on the ground to see if any bite marks occurred as a way of determining the presence of termites. The argument is that, any insect may find the wood laying on the ground and start to consume the cellulose, usually from the side that is in contact with the ground. The more moisture present, the more appetizing to any insect. I was pointing out that, if you could not see the termites on the wood where it was chewed, just any insect damage was not a good way to go about determining that termites are doing the chewing. A quick flip of a piece of wood laying on the ground usually reveals the bugs hiding underneath doing the chewing and they will not always be termites.
Is this what my life has turned into??? Watching termite vids on The RUclipss
It seems we have both found ourselves here, but do we know why? No.
We can always watch reruns of the Man Show of girls jumping on trampolines
I don't know why this came up for me, but I do have termites. I thought the only answer was tenting the house and fuminate it. I need the house to stay standing for at least ten more years.
Funny you should mention that. I was just saying to my wife, "Is making RUclips videos what my life has come to?" I started doing it when the Pandemic started and so many people were out of work. I was just trying to help out in anyway I could. Now I am busy answering about 50 questions a day. I never realized that the need was so great. Now I just stay with it and do my best to assist where I can. Thanks for watching. By the way, if you watch my videos for fun, then you may need to get a life. Lol. Be well my friend.
@@cathtf7957 How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. You do not always need to fumigate. In fact, fumigation should only be considered for drywood termites. 90% of the time the problem is subterranean termites and fumigation does not work for them.
Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
You are a treasure. I was quoted $6,000 for bait stations and they do not know if I even have them. Thank you so much. I live in the desert so we know subterranean termites can be here. Thank you thank you. ❤
You are very welcome. Those bait stations they want to sell you are pretty much a waste of money. This is especially true if you do not have an existing infestation. You know, inspecting for termites is not all that hard to do, so you may want to do your own self inspection, just to see if the pest controller got it right. It sounds like he isn't even sure if you have termites or not. I don't know in what world it is possible that a pest controller cannot determine if you have termites or not. Anyway, it is real easy to inspect your home for termites. Just walk around the outside of the building and look for mud tubes that are coming up from the ground. Also check the eaves to see if there any mud tubes as well. If you have a crawl space, go in there and look for mud tubes that are coming up from the ground or or anywhere on the floor joists. It is also a good idea to go into the attic and check for mud tubes there as well. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termites species. That video will show you what mud tubes look like. If you live in the desert, you may also live in an area where there are drywood termites. This video will show you how to inspect for those as well. Drywood termites are not subterranean, and they will create piles of frass that are sometimes located inside of the home, in plain sight. You will often see these along the walls and they are especially common under windows. You may also find frass under your kitchen cabinets. I think it is always a good idea to do a self inspection for termites at least every year. If you install the monitoring stations, you should check them every month. While you are walking around checking them, always look for mud tubes that may be coming up from the ground on the side of the building. If you put the monitoring stations at 4 ft intervals, it is practically impossible for the termites to miss them, but the termites do not always get the memo about how they are supposed to behave. Therefore, it is always a good idea just to glance at the side of the building to make sure that the termites did not bypass the monitoring stations.
I hope that helps. Be well Virginia.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutionsyou rock! Thank you!! 😊❤
@@speaklifegardenhomesteadpe8783 You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Dude! You literally saved my fence from destruction. The fipro trick worked like a charm. I bought some $8 bottles of AMDRO Quick Kill from Lowes and I sprayed it everywhere I saw termite activity and that was last week. This week, they are all gone. I'm still going to treat the entire yard with an effective termiticide focusing on the fence and I've already put a barrier around my house, I've put so many types of poison around my house since I started this journey but the Imidacloprid and Fipro suggestions you made were golden. Sending you a tip. Thank you again!
Thank you so much for sharing that. I'm happy it worked out for you. Please call on me anytime. Be well my friend.
Thank you so much! for doing this. I just paid $600 for termite treatment. I will certainly watch your other videos. Great service for homeowners who don't mind spending a little time on such a useful project.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Very clean setup, looks like a very professional product design, many thanks for the info.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I’m happy I found your RUclips channel out of all the other ones that are there. You always get straight to the point and provide money saving advice. Thanks for all you do to keep those critters on the other side of the wall. Have a wonderful day!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Very interesting. I like senior guys wisdom and slower pace of explanation! Subbed!!!
Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video, Splendid
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Fantastic video. I had a previous house with a bad case of subterranean termites in the yard. This video had all the information I wish I had back then.Thanks!
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
You have done a lot of work in presenting these tips, which is very much appreciated. Providing free (and useful) advice is rare these days. Thank you, Sir.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
First of all, thank you for your valuable time and awesome information.
I apologize for the impatience of the RUclips crowd. The value of your information is tremendous. Well worth the time invested.
I get this reaction from people all the time. I'm disabled, half of my Diaphragm is paralyzed, (among many other things). When in a conversation with others, I can see them stop listening to me, or they try to complete my sentences. It's extremely disheartening.
People are more concerned about time then learning or just hearing another person. Just because you're on the internet shouldn't relive you of your manors.
Great Job
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You are very wise. I am so sorry about your disabilities. I wish you well my friend.
New sub here in Houston. Worker replaced some wood an found white termites. Loved finding your channel. You answering most questions in detail was the clincher for me. You CARE and that means EVERTYHING. THANK YOU!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You have three species of termites where you live that are of concern. This would include drywood termites. These guys fly to your house, so they would not set off the monitoring stations. Therefore, I recommend doing an inspection on your home. I have a video on how to do this. You are mostly going to be looking for mud tubes and frass. The video will explain everything. Just get back to me with what you find. Ideally, you will also find activity. If you do, dig into it with a flathead screwdriver and try to obtain a specimen with a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die a natural death, and then get back to me. After we identify the species, we can come up with a treatment plan that works best for you.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to inspect for termites: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
Thank you very much for this video. We live in a tropical country and termites infestation is one of our biggest problems in property maintenance. We both have dry wood termites and subterranean termites. It is costly to treat them.
It sounds like you have some experience with termites, so you know that the monitoring stations do not work for drywood termites. However, they are very good at detecting subterranean termites. I recommend that you watch my video on how to treat the exterior of a building. This will prevent drywood termites. You need to do the treatment every 60 days. I will give you the link. Keep in mind that fumigation is the only way to eliminate drywood termites and the gas they use has no residual at all, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. So, you need to start the prevention before you fumigate. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat the outside of a building to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
The simplicity of this idea is freaking genius!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I live in KY and it is quite expensive to have pest control monitor every month. Thank you so much this will be a major savings.
Jelly?
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
I was a LICENSED NY EXTERMINATOR..
This video was excellently formatted..and so true..Inexpensive is a great fact. I'm retired but will do this at my children's house..
So now this is Your Life..watching YT vid on termites.
Pay attention ..or pay an EXTERMINATOR Thousands of $$
to do this ..for you
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. If you think it's bad spending your life watching RUclips videos, you should try spending your life making them. I'm supposed to be retired and now I am spending 5 to 8 hours a day answering questions and making videos, and I do it 6 days a week. I started doing this at the beginning of the pandemic to help people out who were out of work. I have so many people now coming to me for help that I can't stop. I never realized how great the need was. I don't have it in me to let them down. So, I am always available to answer questions and I keep making videos that folks may find useful. There you have it. That's pretty much my life now. It's only fair though. Life has been good to me over the years. I suppose it's time to give back. Be well my friend.
Termidor SC is the ticket! Trench around the perimeter of your foundation and fill with recommended dosage. The trench is tough work but worth the effort. I dug holes around my trees and installed Termidor SC there too - no more termites! 😜👍
That works if you have an active infestation, but you wouldn't want to do all that work if you do not have an active infestation. Monitoring makes sense to prevent an infestation, so that you never need to trench and go through all that work. Be well my friend.
Well explained mate - I was never previously sure of the function of monitoring stations before this video. Nice accompanying video to your other step by step assembly tutorial! 👌👍👍
Thanks for the feedback. I always like hearing what you think about my work. Be well mate.
@@GuysPestSolutions My pleasure mate, as is our now connected on email! 👌👍👍
you can always pick the ones who don't have the brains to be thankful and, regardless of how much or little they are entertained, watch anyway so they can get the knowledge. Learning is rarely entertaining. Thank you for sharing your knowledge sir. 👍
Thank you. That is very true. Always my pleasure to be of assistance. Be well my friend.
You're like that cool uncle that knows everything. Thanks uncle.
Brilliant DIY solution! Your goal of saving people money has been achieved many times over. Buying a home in Huntsville, AL. and will use this method to monitor termites. A razor saw or saw type blade on a standard X-acto style hobby knife is cheap and great for clean cuts on balsa wood. Wont crush the wood as it dulls.
Thanks so much for such sage advice. Subscribed! and will recommend.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. I like the X-Acto knife suggestion. Be well my friend.
You are awesome thank you some much for your honesty. We just paid $1040 for treatment and $260 a year. I wish we had seen this sooner. We live in AZ
Did they trench or use the Sentricon system? If they trenched, then you don't need the annual insurance. Total waste of money because trenching is good for 5 to 10 years. If they used Sentricon, then you probably signed a contract for at least a year, so dump them after that year is up. The water bottle monitoring stations actually work better than Sentricon, because you can install them closer together. You can also apply granules around the house every year. I have a video on how to do that. It costs about $50 a year to do. I use both the monitoring stations and the granules, so I can't miss. So, whether they trenched or used Sentricon, you can dump them as soon as the contract is up. Please note that Home Depot and Lowes stopped selling the correct granules, so you now need to buy them from Amazon.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to use termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k2_1_6&=&crid=22WHNM2QXKLLR&=&sprefix=termit
T H A N K Y O U !!!
Don't let the haters worry you! They probably WORK FOR termite companies, anyway!
I personally appreciate you and your advice! Your demeanor is quite nice! I'm subbing!
Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks from the tropical north of Australia. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Not only cheap, but recycling plastic too! Amazing video
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
What a wonderfully lucid account. How I wish there was a video just as lucidly excellent for trapping bed bugs. Congratulations on your video and the very best to you, Sir.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I will do my best to do a bed bug video as soon as I can. Be well my friend.
Thank you, Guy. Very helpful. I self treated my house two years ago but still paranoid about termites. These monitoring stations will help me rest better. :)
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
I watched this video because I was curious. I'm now subscribed and looking forward to watching your other videos!! Thanks!!!
Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
In my orayers are folks like you who truly seem to care.. Gracious God , keep us Your people..
Please and thank you..
Guy is phenomenal !
Thank you kindly sir for your information and dedication to helping all of us...
You are very welcome. You are so kind. Your comment is very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I live in AZ and I just recently found out that my home has an infestation. A LARGE infestation! The hard-to-treat ones that burrow up from the ground. The back yard beams need to be replaced, because it has been so long. I saw these beams when I purchased the home and was told it was only ants that needed to be treated. Later I found they were termites. ugh... So, I will watch your videos until I find the correct treatment. Thank you. I just saw another video of yours and the termites that I have at my home ARE the ones with tubes, so I now know they are not that hard to treat. Thank you for your information!
It sounds like you may have Formosan termites. These guys are very fast eaters and can do a lot of damage very quickly. I suggest watching two videos. I have one on how to identify the species and one on how to treat Formosan termites. Please ID these guys. Let me know if you have any problems and I will assist you further. Also, let me know if these are not Formosan and I will help you with that as well. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on Formosan termites: ruclips.net/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/видео.html
I love this guy. He saved me $2,000.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Wow! Your video makes this intimidating subject so much less overwhelming! Thanks a bunch for this, as here in middle Tennessee we’ve both types of termites. My neighbor just got swarmed with those flying ones in July so I’m worried about those ones, though I understand these stations are the underground ones, which my garage had about 10 years ago. I can do this myself and save money! THANK YOU and God bless 💜
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. The only species of termites that are known to exist in Tennessee, at least so far, are a common species of subterranean termites. The fact that your neighbor experienced a swarm of them would suggest that they are fairly close by. Therefore, you would be wise to install the monitoring stations and apply granules around your house.
For the granules to work, you need to have dirt around most of the house, and that dirt needs to be porous enough so that water will leach into it. You can do a simple test to see if your dirt is porous enough by simply digging a shallow hole right next to the foundation that is 4 inches deep and about 8 to 12 inches long. Just the width of the shovel is all you need. Fill the hole with water and see how long it takes for it to seep down into the ground. If it drains down into the ground reasonably well, then the granules should work fine for you.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. There are two versions of them now. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the right ones, but you can still get them from Amazon. I will give you a link. I will also give you a link to my video but how to apply the granules.
I hope that helps. Be well Priscilla.
Video on how to use termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_5&=&crid=A0Q6FR5I5QQH&=&sprefix=termi
Guy it’s so helpful for you to post links to things you should buy We save so much time thanks to you
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well Ellen.
You have saved us so much money by sharing your awsome knowledge!!! Thank you so very much for being generous making and sharing these videos. God Bless
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well Donna.
Wow, great video! Great presentation! Well done! Thank you.
You may not have them if you live in a cool climate.They leave a trail .You can google what it looks like.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Great video. Your visual instructions are excellent. Such a simple method and easy to do. Another reason to avoid pest control companies that charge exorbitant prices.
Thank you so much Chris. You caught me answering questions again. I do it every morning. Let me tell you, placing these things around your home is a very good idea, especially in Florida and most especially if you live near the coast. We have Formosan termites in Florida, and they are very bad. They can eat your house so quickly that they are often called "super termites." By installing these stations around your home, you will know if you are going to get attacked and you can stop them before they reach your house. I also apply termite granules around my house every year. It only costs about $50 a year and it will stop all subterranean termites from infesting your home. It is insanely easy to do too. I will give you a link to that video. Keep in mind that termites are a problem, even if you have a block home or even if you have metal studs. Termites will eat your roof structure and your drywall too. That's right. They don't just eat wood. They will eat anything that contains cellulose. Since the paper on the drywall contains cellulose, they will definitely eat it. In pest control, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It is well worth it to apply the granules every year and also installing the monitoring stations. Please note that you can no longer buy the granules from Home Depot or Lowes. They sell the wrong granules now. You must order them from Amazon. I will give you a link for them. In fact, I placed an order today for my house and my daughter's house. I usually apply them every January, but I got busy last month, so I need to get on it.
Thank you so much for watching and for your continued support. You're the best.
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Granules: www.amazon.com/BIOADVANCED-700350A-Perimeter-Treatment-Granules/dp/B000RUIJYM/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4%3Aamzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&cv_ct_cx=termite+granules&keywords=termite+granules&pd_rd_i=B000RUIJYM&pd_rd_r=49b6cdf2-960a-466e-97e0-b447d4be0088&pd_rd_w=a0bat&pd_rd_wg=aL0Xk&pf_rd_p=eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&pf_rd_r=AQ28QNYBYCC00TCBT4WS&qid=1675419806&sr=1-1-5985efba-8948-4f09-9122-d605505c9d1e
Great info. I really appreciate your time and explanation of correct treatment. All the best to you as well.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Great Idea - I used a round sticker I found at the dollar store to cover the fluorescent spot until I finished the painting and I covered the paint with clear nail polish to protect the paint. It works Great!!!!!!!!!
Great ideas. Necessity is the mother of invention. Be well my friend.
I’ve been doing pest control for over 37 years. Baiting for termites has evolved to a money making scheme by the big companies, Orkin and Terminix. I don’t do baits anymore. Termidor HE is a one and done treatment for up to 15 years.
Nice to hear from an old-timer like me. I agree. This baiting thing has gotten out of hand. I do not recommend baiting as a solution for an existing termite infestation, especially if you are dealing with Formosan or Western subterranean termites. Companies are way overselling it and it ends up being very expensive for the customer. The old ways are often the best ways. Termidor HE is a great product and it saves a lot of work. However, it was only introduced in the market in 2000 and it is still just catching on. So, I am not convinced that you will get 15 years out of it. I think the jury is still out on it, because a lot of jobs were done with the last 15 years. It may be true, but I'm thinking that it will depend upon ground and climate conditions. It will most likely do better than Termidor SC though, so why not use it?
Thanks for the comment. Be well my friend.
Hello, Guy! those stations are quite clever. I don't use our basement, at my age, but I was aware of an almsot 8 foot tall termite trail. WE assumed the house had been treated and was termite free. One day my heel went through the top-stair, headed down to the basement. Well, after a several estimates. (These estimates weren't about killing the termites, but the IGRs, like I mention below.--)
I think my sister will spend $1,400 and have monitoring for 4 months. [And we have new steps, now.] I'm a DIY-guy; no one listens to me. These on your video were very clever, Guy. (I'm not easily impressed.)
I'm waiting for my other order of pest control products, the fall ritual with fleas on my three pets. We seeded the yard with grass, so much had died out. I gave it an incredible amount of water, because that's what grass is, several inches of water on top of the ground. (I don't want to talk about my water bill, please!) I think that killed a lot of fleas! (I had an angry ground squirrel mess with me over flooding his nest!)
For fleas, I have sworn by insect growth regulator hormones (IGRs) for 20 years. Opinions, Guy??
Oh, every year the flies attack my kitchen area (which has the cat litter boxes). Hundreds of flies!!!! For two months, every year. I have found dead (female??) flies behind the litter boxes once or twice! I'm getting better and this year I was even a little smarter.
A can of Black Flag to hit a little onto the window areas every few days and I have a great hand vacuum with one of those "snorkel-nozzles"--I dumped that when I hit 50 or 60 flies!! JUST AWFUL!
The IGR!! I'm expecting my yearly one ounce order for fleas, any day now! SPRAY THE KITCHEN FOR FLIES, TOO, RIGHT??!! Great!
But, I saw a little UV light plus zapper on clearance that I thought I'd use while I was sleeping and the little buggers go to sleep too. DO FLIES RESPOND WELL TO UV LIGHTS? THIS WOULD BE PERFECT!
THANK YOU, GUY. THIS IS VERY KIND OF YOU. I TAKE BACK EVERYTHING I TAKE BACK EVERY BAD THING I EVER SAID ABOUT YOU MILLIONARE BUG-GUYS, GUY!
🙂
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I will do my best to get some of this stuff unpacked for you.
Let's start with the termites. It is very common these days for pest control companies to try to sell you the Sentricon System. This is nothing more than an insect growth regulator that they put in bait stations around your house. You can do the same thing yourself for about $300, simply by using a different brand. The pest control companies like it because they can install these things in under 2 hours, they are cheap to buy, and they can charge a lot of money for them. Since they use a bait, you need to pay them every year for the service, and it never ends. So this is a real cash cow for the pest control companies. Unfortunately, there are some problems with them. Probably the biggest problem with them is that the termites can miss them. That means the termites can go straight to your house and never touch any of the stations. This does not happen often, but it does happen. Also, it can take up to 2 years for them to wipe out a colony. It usually happens faster than that, but not as fast as using an actual pesticide that works on the nervous system of the termites. All insect growth regulators do is prevent the termites from reproducing. Termite workers can live up to two years, so it is possible for them to go on eating your house for that long. The idea is that they're going to eat the bait instead, and hopefully die off before 2 years, which does happen. Still, these things are all possible, and so you will usually see in the contract that they do not guarantee that the stations are going to work. In other words, you will usually find a disclaimer in the contract. Since you have an active infestation already, then you should treat it, but this is something that you can easily do yourself. Since you had termite inspections done, and they suggested bait stations, that would suggest that these are subterranean termites. How you treat them will depend upon the species. 90% of the time they are very easy to treat either with granules or by trenching. However, in some areas of the country, there are species that are a bit more difficult. Therefore it is important to know where you live. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termites species. There is a map in that video that will show you where Formosan termites are a problem. If you live in either the red or orange area on the map, then you need to figure out what species you are dealing with. If you live outside of the red or orange areas on the map, then you most likely have a very common species of subterranean termites. So, please watch the video, and also please tell me where you live. In most cases, you can treat the entire problem effectively for under $100.
While insect growth regulators would not be my first choice for termites, they do work very well for fleas. IGRs are bit pricey, but they do get the job done. Of course, for maximum effect, you need to treat the entire lawn. So, if what you are doing is working for you, then I would recommend that you just stick with it.
The thing you need to understand about flies is that they require a breeding area. This is true for just about any pest you can imagine, but with flies it can be a bit tricky. Breeding areas for flies can include dead animals, animal feces, and that sort of thing. One of the most common areas where you will find breeding going on are trash cans. A lot of people throw all sorts of things in their trash can, like food scraps, that are not contained in a sealed plastic bag. This allows a perfect opportunity for flies to breed in the can. Unfortunately, it is not enough for you to keep your trash can clean. If your neighbor has a fly problem in their trash can, the flies are more than happy to stop by and pay you a visit. Therefore, finding and treating the breeding areas can be somewhat challenging. I mean, you cannot possibly treat a breeding area unless you know where it is, and you have access to it. So, the first thing you need to do is figure out where these flies are coming from, and then treat that with a pesticide. I can tell you that I volunteer to treat my neighbor's trash cans every 2 months and they are happy to let me do it. It's no big deal because treating a trash can takes under a minute. I use Bifen IT in a pump up garden sprayer. This product has up to a 90-day residual, but I normally do my exterior pest control every 60 days, so I just catch the trash cans at that time. I also treat my entire lawn and the exterior of my house every 60 days. For that I use Bifen XTS in a hose end sprayer. This kills just about everything on my lawn, and anything that may survive that, will get killed if it tries to get in the house. So, I am totally pest-free. Unfortunately, one of the only things that the Bifen XTS does not do well with are fleas. Anyway, as I am treating the lawn and the exterior of the house, I walk around looking for possible breeding areas for flies. While I am at it, I also look for breeding areas from mosquitoes as well. In addition to inspecting my property, I also inspect the neighbor's yards as well. I do not treat their yards, but I will eliminate a fly or mosquito Breeding areas.
With regard to the UV bug zappers, they can work for flies, but you need one that uses the correct light wavelength and that cycle really fast. Most of the UV light traps that you can buy cycle at around 50 cycles per second, which is too slow for the flies to really see it. The reason for that is somewhat complicated, but the short answer is that flies do not see light the same way as humans do. You can buy some of these bug zappers that cycle light at around 10,000 cycles per second. This is what you would really need for a light zapper to be effective. Also you would want the light wavelength to be between 300 to 420 nanometers. The problem that you run into is that most of the bug zappers are going to boast about how much voltage they put out, which quite frankly does not make a lot of difference. They will all probably kill a fly if it flies into one of them. So, if you go on Amazon, then you may have some difficulty finding a bug zapper that meets your specifications. Obviously, I cannot be familiar with all the makes of bug zappers in the world, but I do believe that you can buy a bug zapper that is very effective from domyown.com. The Vector Fly Lights should meet these specifications. I will give you a link to just one of them, but I think domyown.com has a a couple of them to select from. Amazon has lots of bug zappers for under $50, but you get what you pay for. One of the Vector models is going to cost at least around $190. That is because it costs money to meet the specifications necessary to create an effective trap for flies. Also, the Vector models are very well made and are professional grade.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termites species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to treat the outside of your house: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to treat your yard: ruclips.net/video/wifoTU5dmp0/видео.html
Fly zapper: www.domyown.com/vector-plasma-one-p-1187.html?sub_id=1188
Thank you very much. I watched your video and found it very very informative and i really appreciate that you spent a lot of time to make it so that it reaches a larger audience. Thanks Guy again.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for being a helpful person. Was not looking for this but was glad I found this. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
It's nice to find a professional willing to share their years of experience and knowledge. Much respect for you, sir. My problem is with exterminating termites within a vaulted ceiling (home built 1960). This is not a full blown infestation yet. By placing white sheets of styrofoam around the inside perimeter of the room we have identified one sqft area where droppings/black spec's (same size as the dot in this ?mark symbol) falling from ceiling. Guesstimate 100 spec's per day. droppings from 'pushout' holes. Above ceiling is roof solar panels. The vaulted ceiling is built of 4"x4" 45deg struts to pitch of roof, with horizontal 1/2" X 6" flat wood. All wood is stained and solid. Other than tenting the whole house how can the identified area be treated for termites. I tried the cans of foam with the tiny straw to spray in the cracks but standing on ladder it ain't easy and cracks are wide enough to fit the straw. I was thinking, couldn't plastic be attached to 4x4 struts and fumigate that air tight zone? What are your thoughts.
You didn't tell me where you live, but I'm guessing you live in drywood termite territory. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species and let me know if you are in the red area on the map that is in the video. What you described is consistent with drywood termites, so let's work on the assumption that is what this is. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home, but you cannot see the evidence of it.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Unfortunately, you cannot spot fumigate. You need to fumigate the entire house. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
As everybody knows termites do not carry measuring devices so they won't know if they're not accurately space either just thought I would add that this is a good idea I'm liking it so far
Very true. The holes do not need to be perfect. Be well my friend.
Great tip!
Instead of using black paint, I would use Flexseal to paint the bottom. Put a piece of tape over the orange spot before spraying.
Good idea. Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
Brilliant! Thanks for your help keeping termites away!
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
I had termite guys come out last year and installed stations every 10 feet part! And didn’t put them at my drip line or along my driveway… I also asked about why the paint coloring and got the answer … 👍🏼
Today we had a free home inspection from a reputed pest control company and he said that bait stations are recommended. Total charge for the service would be nearly $2000. Then I saw your video. Now I am going to do bait stations on my own. Thanks for your video, Sir.
Smart move. The company you were dealing with was most likely trying to sell you the Sentricon baiting system. That system is a total rip off. In my judgment, it amounts to a legal scam. I am so happy that you didn't fall for it. This is usually pushed by some of the national companies who do not even send out actual pest controllers. They send out trained salespeople. They work on commission, and their only objective is to rip you off for as much money as they can. Most of the local mom-and-pop pest controllers will not even sell the product. The companies that sell this garbage really give the industry a bad name.
You did not tell me if you actually have an infestation or not. If you do not have an existing infestation, then the monitoring stations depicted in this video should serve you well. However, keep in mind that these are not bait stations. The difference is that monitoring stations will alert you to the presence of termites. Bait stations actually kill them. The idea behind the monitoring stations is to alert you to the presence of termites, before they attack your house. Then you can use a bait station to kill them. They are not really designed to use for an existing infestation. If you have an existing infestation, I can tell you how to treat it for under $100. Also, there's a new product that came on the market recently that can prevent termites for about $30 a year. This product can also treat an existing infestation as well. I am currently in production on a video on how to properly use it. I anticipate that video should be posted by the end of next week. If you subscribe to the channel, then you should receive a notification when the video posts. I think it is still a good idea to use the monitoring stations, but using both will give you an added layer of protection.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Gday Guy, you are good man for the honest help you put out here. Tyvm Sir. Ravi it’s good to hear you didn’t get ripped off mate. 👍 I’m from Sydney and it’s been a few occasions over about a fortnight we have had fliers come into our house via the open skylight louvre window. Only today I figured out they were dry wood termites!! I’m literally taking time of work to do everything thing I can to mitigate the situation. Really I have no idea what I’m doing. Any help would be appreciated.
@@et5712 Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated.
The first thing you need to do is to make sure that you have the species correct. Flying termites are not limited to drywood termites. Subterranean termites can swarm as well. Also, if you see them in the house, they may not have come in through the skylight. It is possible that they are coming out of the walls, or the woodwork in your home. They can exit from tiny holes in your drywall or woodwork, that you may not even see. Unfortunately, you have a couple of subterranean species in Sydney that are very destructive. So, you want to make sure that you are not dealing with one of these species, because they get treated much differently. For example, you have Coptotermes acinaciformis, which I think are commonly known as Australian subterranean termites or costal brown termites. This species does an impressive amount of damage in your area. There are a couple of other species as well, but I think you get the point. It is very important to identify the species correctly, and then direct your treatment accordingly.
That being said, if these are drywood termites, then I can probably tell you everything you need to know about them. So, please try to catch one of the swarmers and then Google "West Indian drywood termite alates." If you have drywood termites, that is most likely the species. Keep in mind that drywood termites are not as common in Sydney as subterranean termites. You do have them, but most of the time, you are being attacked by subterranean termites. So, I cannot rule out drywood termites, but it is definitely worth checking to be sure that you have it right.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@ I got photos and kept two captured. With and without wings. Will need to inspect the skylight again but I don’t see that they are settled in my home but rather flying into it. With a little extra research they seem to be subterranean type swarmers. The main difference is the head Color being darker than the rest and wings were light coloured.
@@et5712 If the head and body is an orange/brownish color and the wings are kind of a light color, then these are most likely drywood termites. They could be coming in through the skylight, but these guys can and do infest all areas of your home. They enter into any crack or crevice they can find in the outside of the building and then they eat their way into the wood to establish a gallery. Most of the time, they enter through multiple openings around the building. The only good thing about them is that they are very slow eaters, but they will eventually do a lot of damage. Please let me know if they fit the description I just mentioned. Be well my friend.
Thank you so much for your kindness & help.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Hey Guy, You just got a new subscriber!
I appreciate your help. What an awesome instructional on bait stations. I just found some mud tunnels in my basement on an inner wall of the pantry. I will be watching all your videos and learning about that. I bought boric acid for diy treatment. I don't know how that will work. Have you ever read up on boric acid recipes?
Please watch my video on termites vs boric acid. There are two options for treating subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. I have videos on how to do both options and I will place links below.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
You can give any subterranean termite treatment a bit of a boost by doing a spot treatment. If at all possible, spot treating for subterranean termites should not be the only approach to eliminate an infestation. An additional exterior treatment should also be done with either granules or trenching, whenever possible. Spot treating alone may totally eliminate the infestation with no other treatments, but it's not a sure thing.
To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites.
Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. If you have a slab home, then you may find them going up the outside of the house on the slab and even the side of the house. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites.
Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated.
It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on termites vs boric acid: ruclips.net/video/Th07AIMvpvQ/видео.html
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_7&=&crid=1UJA4PE31UWZW&=&sprefix=termite
FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
@@GuysPestSolutions I will follow your detailed instructions exactly. One more thing that I should include is that I use the shallow well in the same room as the infestation. It is run through a Berkey Purifier before it's used for drinking and cooking, but not bathing. However it looks like they are probably entering from the direction of the perpendicular wall 90° in that corner of the basement. Upon further inspection they are in damp/wet base cinder blocks on the concrete pad as the couple exterior mud tunnels I first saw. They liked the cardboard boxes containing jars.
I see that most of the water supply for the well is from the other wall. As long as my bait stations are left alone in that section of wall supplying the well, I think I'll avoid granules or trenching there. Your good description of use in the wood sounds like there's no reason the pesticide should enter the well. My only concern would be perculation from the other wall, which I don't think enters the ground water to any degree. The soil here is clay with a 6"- 9" ribbon of top soil. The possibility exists of termites entering under a patio block porch on the well side. Water falls directly into a small ditch in front the porch roof to drain past and down hill. I will set a lot of stations there. I see no mud tunnels on inside perimeter walls yet; just that interior basement room block wall. I will follow your detailed response and watch the other videos you linked. I already saw the one on Boric Acid. It was Excellent.
Thank you ever so much for the amount of time and information you have provided me. I am very grateful for all of your help and hope I can return the blessing sometime.
I will try to send as many friends to your channel as I know and ask them to subscribe. It's good to have you as a new friend too.
☕☺️👍
Great video. Thank you for the instructions to the tee! ❤❤
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for sharing the idea of installing a termite monitor stations❤❤
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
*Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. My father owns homes and apartments all over California. So, these are excellent pest control videos.*
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Excellent information and very thorough. Thank you!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Can you make these w shorter bottles? Or is the depth with a larger bottle necessary? Thank you. Very informative. Great teacher!
Longer is probably better, but the termites will probably find the station, even if it is not quite as deep. Thanks for those kind words. Be well my friend.
Thanks for this video. I've been duking it out with termites lately and have had to learn a lot!
I recommend that you try to identify the species. Different species get treated differently. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy, and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with the link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks. I'll check it out. :)
Though this "Guy" has correct information on termites, his method is flawed! I have more times than I can remember seeing termites inside a home without a single bit of activity in any termite monitoring stations on the exterior. Best method is doing a traditional termite treatment using a non-repellant termiticide, preferably termidor. 40 years experience speaking here!
What’s the best way to get rid of them? I don’t even know how they got in.
11:50
Subterranean termites require moisture, just look for the mud tubes. If you can find those your ordeal can be over sooner. I saved all the permanent markers I had when they dried out. I then removed the inner part of the body of the markers, drilled 1/8 inch holes top and bottom. I mixed sawdust and a termicide together and packed the marker bodies until I couldn't pack in any more. I then pushed the markers into the ground around my foundation at 18 inch intervals. The termites will find these and help themselves to a ready but deadly meal that can be easily refilled. Hope this helps!
@@stevesantiago9660 you are the man! We’ve been outside and under the house and can not locate the tubes. They’ve been eating the house here for a while me. I’m just going to plant the markers all the way around the foundation.
@@stevesantiago9660you should make a tutorial
excellent! I'm all about DIY before calling/spending on a commercial solution. Thanks for sharing your knowledge & experiences. Greg [garden grove, CA usa]
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
You truly are helping me and others by posting your video. What a great guy 😂
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well Anna.
Great advice. Very thorough video. Thank you for sharing such valuable advice with people.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
well done! simple, easy to understand step by step stuff thanx so much
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
bro~~ nice vid! the commentary is slow as hell HOWEVER i'm grateful for the precise and clear instruction and explanation. learned it once slowly and clearly. thank you!
RUclips | Playback speed | 1.25x or 1.5x
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks so much. I'm pretty sure I already have them but my next door neighbor had their house tented last Summer. Should be great for them.
What about bayon spraying and other traditional methods without chemical products
I am so sorry, but I need to tell you that, if your neighbor had their house tented, that means they had drywood termites. These guys are not subterranean, so they do not attack from the ground. They literally fly to your house and then infest the wood. There is a 99.9% chance that you are already infested.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you already have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to treat drywood termites yourself: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
@@umadev6077 You are best not to fool around with termites. The reason we use pesticides is because they work. We no longer use pesticides from last century. We are now in the 21st century and we use 21st century pesticides. They are safe and effective. So safe that a child can play on the treated areas after they dry. Please watch my video on the subject. Link below. Be well my friend.
ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
Absolutely genius! Spent way too much on those stations. Will have to do this from now on.
Thanks for your content!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@Guy's Pest Solutions , could the Basile wood be soaked in Fipronil before they're placed in the monitor? Also, could the*free* wood paint stirrer sticks from hardware stores be used as an alternative bait stick? Or cardboard? Thanks, I appreciate your videos! Very helpful for those of us who can't afford to pay professionals or even afford professional bait systems!!! A+++
@@itsjustme167 Yes. You can soak the wood with fipronil or even Bora-Care if you wish. Also, I suppose that using paint mixing sticks should probably work just fine. I do not think cardboard would be a good option because it will most likely deteriorate too quickly and may become too moldy from the moisture in the ground. Termites do not like a whole lot of mold on their food source. The only reason I use cardboard around the bottle opening is to make it easier to line up the top of the stick with the bottom center of the bottle. While termites will eat cardboard, I do not think it is the best option for making these devices. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How often do u change out the termite poison for the bait cartages? That is when u find that u have termites on your property. And do u need to have gloves on because the termites can smell human scent? I have read that. Thanks for your videos. Love your channel.
Just to be clear, you do not need to change the wood that is in the water bottle stations, but that wood is going to go bad after a while. It is only balsa wood and it will eventually decay under the ground. At that point you will need to replace the station. Pretty much all stations have the same problem. With regard to the actual bait stations that you use to kill the termites, the Advance stations have a pretty large bait capacity and you can actually put two cartridges in them at the same time. You just stack them one on top of the other. That will probably give you enough bait to take out most colonies. However, you should check about every month to make sure that there's still plenty of bait in there for the termites to munch on. The bait cartridges are see-through, so you can tell how much bait has been eaten. If there's still plenty of bait, then just replace the cartridge back in the station. If the bait is almost eaten, then go ahead and replace it. You can also build your own bait station that works faster than the Advance system. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. If you use the homemade system, then you need to check it every few days because it does not contain as much bait as the Advanced system. However, the homemade system will eliminate the colony within 12 weeks, whereas the advanced system can't take up to two years. Oftentimes it is much faster than that, but not always. That is because the Advance system uses an insect growth regulator that simply stops the termites from reproducing. The homemade stations actually use a poison that the termites will take back to the colony with them and spread it around to the other termites. They will all eat it and death will occur pretty fast. The bait in the homemade station does not stop them from reproducing. It simply kills them straight out. Since termite workers can live up to two years, you can see why using an insect growth regulator can sometimes be a fairly slow process. It still works, albeit a bit slower.
You do not need to wear gloves when handling the Advance bait cartridges. The termites can probably smell your sent, and that may give them some reason to pause, but they are typically pretty hungry, so I think it is unlikely that they will avoid the bait. However, you do need to wear gloves when you are handling the homemade bait cartridges, if they are still wet. You do not need to wear gloves when handling the bait cartridge if it is dry.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to make bait stations: ruclips.net/video/r05Z-aUJehw/видео.html
This is Michael. Thank you you for this great information. You really do need to go a lot faster in the future, but your information is valuable and much appreciated.
I've noticed that Amazon sells some termite warning kits. And it's actually cheaper to buy a whole new kit than to buy replacements. So by some kits and use them around the house if you don't want to take all the time to make a hundred of these for a large house
I don't know what to say. I'm 73 and not in a rush anymore. At this point, I'm just happy to wake up in the morning. Lol. However, I did manage to get my latest video under 11 minutes. I will give you a link to it. It pairs well with this video. I have a homemade bait station that you can use instead of ones that you buy. Mine works a lot faster. Do not buy the kits on Amazon. They are most likely the Spectracide Termite Stakes and they don't work. I have a video on that too. Be well Kathy.
Video on how to make a bait station: ruclips.net/video/r05Z-aUJehw/видео.html
Video on Spectracide Termite Stakes: ruclips.net/video/UDzg-1lpynA/видео.html
I watch all of your videos which are awesome. I mean you are awsome 🥰
What a nice thing to say. I am very humbled to have a subscriber like you. I will do my very best to live up to your expectations. Be well Donna.
Painting tip. Stick a small square of masking tape over the orange patch on the bottle base and spray paint it. After enough coates finally remove tape.
Yes. That will work very well. Be well my friend.
Very glad i have a steel framed house and brick walls. Some wood internal bits and pieces still no doubt but i think the termites would have a hard time getting to them? have heard from the neighbours (who have wooden houses) there a termites in the fences. When they are ready I'll pay my bit to put up metal fences. I really liked this video though an im tempted to put some monitoring stations in just for fun. Thank you so much
Building with metal studs is a great way to help deter termites, but it generally does not stop them. While it is true that the termites are not going to eat the metal studs, they will have no problem dining on your drywall. That's right. Everybody thinks termites eat wood, which is true, but it's not actually the wood that they are eating. Termites actually eat cellulose. The reason they eat wood is because would contains cellulose. Well, drywall also contains cellulose, so the termites a happy to eat that as well. Also, is your roof made of metal as well? Is your entire roof structure made of metal, including the sheathing that is under the shingles? Unless you have a slab home, are the floor joists and floor underlayment made out of metal? While it is possible for floor joists to be made out of steel, it would be pretty unusual for the underlayment to be anything other than wood. So you see, there may be more potential for termite damage then you realize. You can build with treated lumber, but termites can eat that too, unless it is rated for ground contact.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions Hi, thanks for the reply! My entire house structure is steel, the roof is steel sheeting, also joists, etc, and under the floor. Everything is glorious inedible steel, It's a 2-story house. With a concrete slab. The upper floor is MDF. It's a partical board material I've researched online that termites will have a go at chip board. The walls are what we call plaster boards here in australia, which I'm guessing is similar to dry wall. Both neighbours have lovely wooden Queenlander styler houses. I wasn't even overly concerned and just happened upon your video and I'm glad I did.I will keep the knowledge in mind. Thanks kindly, take care
@@dougrogan379 It sounds like you are in good shape. I guess you need to worry more about rust than termites. Lol. Just kidding. I guess you didn't pay much for that house because it must have been a "steel." I'm sorry. I couldn't resist that one. Well done mate. Be well my friend.
I understand your structure, and you seem to be okay. But I live in Florida, and there are a lot of people here with cement block houses who think they are safe from termites but the termites tunnel in the interior wall up to the roof joists and collapse the roof on the houses. It happens a lot, so I wrote this not so much for your sake but for others who might be reading it
@@kpv123 You are correct. Not only that, there are usually wooden studs that pad out those concrete blocks on the interior, to hang the drywall and run the wiring. Very few homes are safe from termites. Be well Kathy.
This video was not so useful for me as I live in an apartment in a gated community. Yet, i went through the video, as I was curious how the trick worked. By the way, this video is very good tool for testing one's patience 😊
I'm glad you watched the video, but it really was not made for entertainment purposes. It was created for people who need to monitor for termites inexpensively and want to know how it all works. It's interesting because I posted 2 versions of this video at the same time. One of them was only 9 minutes long, but did not include an explanation about why it worked. The longer version was viewed 10 times more than the shorter version. I did not expect that at all. RUclips didn't want both versions posted because they were really the same thing, so I removed the one that most people didn't watch. Apparently, there are those who want the full explanation and those that just want to know how to make the thing and install it, but the people who want the full explanation way outnumber the ones who don't. Again, very surprising to me, but I went with the majority. Be well my friend.
Thanks for this video, it's very informative. A couple questions if you don't mind: 1) If termites are already feeding on the wood of my home, will they have any reason to switch to the wood in a monitoring station? 2) For lazy guys like me, what if I just drive a 1" x 2" bare softwood stake about 10" deep into the ground and pull those up every 2 months. Would that be a good indicator of termites in the area?
If you have termites in your home already, then they probably will not go after the monitoring stations. However, some of the commercial bait stations have an attractant in them that may lure them to it. Not a sure thing though. If you have termites already, you need to first identify the species. Not all species are subterranean. Please watch my video on how to do that. Putting stakes in the ground at 4 foot intervals around the house will also work, but that's a lot of stakes to pull up every month or two. It's a lot faster to use the monitoring stations. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: ruclips.net/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/видео.html
Thank you so much for advice and videos. Keep up the great work, we appreciate it. 😊
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
So smart and so simple....thanks again for suc a good idea!
You are very welcome. Thanks for the feedback. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Fipronil is what I use in my voids around sill plates when I first started I thought I wants infested but they were eating my vinyl fence post expensive post coved with vinyl and made with what appears to be spruce lol
Thank you, sir, so much wisdom & knowledge you have acquired during your lifetime for sharing & pouring your heart...!!!
I need more from you ...all the very best ...
Love from Australia...
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I have been to Australia. I loved it there. Be well my friend.
Thank you for a very nice video.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
I am a fan of cheap, effective DIY solutions. Thanks for sharing this!
To be fair - a commercial monitoring system like Sentricon includes an insurance policy that will cover repairs on your structure up to $1m. There is certainly a value to that. Do you have thoughts about Sentricon?
Take care and God Bless.
I have a video that is in production right now it talks about that very issue. This video should be posted sometime next week. The short answer is that the Sentricon system is fine for monitoring termite activity, and perhaps even preventing it, but I wouldn't use it for an existing investigation, particularly if you are dealing with an aggressive species, such as Formosan termites. If you subscribe to my channel, you'll be notified when this video is posted, and it will answer all your questions about using a bait as opposed to trenching. As for the insurance, please read what Pete N posted. It sounds like he's been there.
Be well my friend.
A termite walks into a bar. "Is the bar tender?"
Good one😂
Termite replied no And said it's a trans tender
Thank you very Sir for you initiative on termites.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
An excellent video thanks Guy.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Great idea! Could you use cardboard infused with borax inside of the bottle as a killing bait for the termites? Thanks
The problem with cardboard is that it will easily decay and become more unattractive to the termites. The only reason I use it in the bottles is as a spacer. It is the wood that does the job. Now, you could dip the sticks in Bora-Care, and that would permanently make them a poison to the termites, but it will greatly increase the cost and time to make the stations. You don't need to kill the termites right off. It could be years before one of the stations goes off and you can easily kill the termites after the station becomes active. Fipronil foam will do a way better job than a borate product. If you have an active station, just drill a small hole in the top of the bottle and fill it with the foam. The only problem is that there isn't that much wood in the station, so I would not just treat the station. That is why I suggest installing the Advance station next to the bottle station that is triggered. Doing so will take out the entire colony.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy! I am considering spending a lot of money on pest control and wanted to ask your opinion first. Three years ago our split level house in Hawaii was flooded by a leak upstairs, and we had the whole house gutted down to the studs. We completely renovated our kitchen, which is upstairs, with new cabinets in late 2021/ early 2022. For the past year we've seen the termite droppings/frass under 3 specific corner cabinets, but nowhere else. My suspicion is that the eggs were in the new cabinets. In the last year we've seen the frass nowhere else in the home, but consistently under these three cabinets about every month or so.
My question is this: should I tear out the cabinets to save the rest of the house? Or should I tent the house or fumigate the kitchen only? Or is there something else that I should consider? I'm willing to tent the whole house, but it seems like the termites are in this one specific area. I've never seen a termite, only the droppings, and there are no apparent holes or mud tracks that are visible...just the droppings on the counters under the cabinets. Please help!
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. There is an outside chance that you may be correct. It is possible that the drywood termites were in your cabinets when you installed them. If you have not seen any swarmers (flying termites) then it is possible that the gallery in the cabinets has not matured to the point where the infestation can spread to other areas of the house. Since drywood termites are very slow eaters, you do have the luxury of time, so I think it's worth treating the cabinets first before you decide to fumigate the entire house. I must be honest with you though. I cannot rule out the possibility that you became infested from your neighbor's house. Still, even if that were the case, your home is not in any danger at the moment. It takes many years for drywood termites to do significant damage. This is why you do have the luxury of time here. Personally, I would treat the cabinets instead of removing them.
You indicated that you didn't see any holes in the cabinets. I can assure you though that there are holes. You just need to find them. These holes are quite small and can be difficult to detect. You need to look directly above where you are seeing the frass. Gravity is your friend here. The frass it's going to fall straight down from the hole. That means the hole is located directly above the frass on a vertical plane somewhere along the cabinet surface. This hole is going to be very tiny, so you need to look carefully. If the frass is on the inside of the cabinet, then remove the shelves and look where the shelf meets the wall of the cabinet. The hole could be hidden where the shelf contacts the wall of the cabinet. If the frass is below the outside surface of the cabinet, be sure to look at the ceiling. Make sure that the frass is coming from the cabinet and not the ceiling. There must be a hole because it is impossible for the frass to be pushed out without one. Each pile of frass is going to have a hole above it.
After you find the holes, they can be treated with a fipronil foam. You simply shoot the foam into each hole for about 7 seconds, or until the foam is coming back out of the hole. The problem is that you are not allowed to purchase pesticides in Hawaii. Unless you know somebody on the mainland that can ship it to you, you are going to need to hire a pest control to do this for you. Just tell them that you want to spot treat the cabinets, and you have already identified the kick out holes. You can tell them the exact treatment that you want them to perform. If you want to treat this yourself, but you do not know anybody who can ship you the foam, then try ordering it from eBay. Sometimes there are people who will ship it to you, either because they don't know the law, or they don't care about the law. Also, try ordering Fuse Foam from Amazon. They are not supposed to ship it to you, but they are very busy, and the person filling the order may not realize that they are shipping the product to you illegally. Sometimes it works. You can treat this problem with either Fuse Foam or Termidor Foam. So, if you try eBay, if you can't get one of them, then try the other. You may just get lucky. If you must hire pest controller, ask for a free inspection. Don't tell them what you want them to do until they arrive at your house. Just ask for a free termite inspection. After the pest controller arrives, then explain what you want them to do, and get a price for it. If it's more than a couple of hundred dollars, then thank them for their time and try another pest controller. You can get as many free estimates as you wish. My recommendation is to stay away from the national companies. They often send trained salespeople instead of actual pest controllers. These folks work on commission, so they try to sell you stuff that you don't need. Some of them are going to try to tell you that you need to fumigate the entire house, and while that may be true, we don't know that yet. Remember that you do have the luxury of time here. You can always fumigate later if you see any of the evidence of termites. For now, you just need to get the cabinets treated, and you need to do it before you start to see swarmers. Since the pest controller is going to do a free inspection, you may as well let them inspect the entire house, just to see if they find evidence of termites anywhere else. It is a good idea to shadow the inspector. If he sees a place where he suspects termites, you want to see it. Don't just take his word for it. If you are with him while he is inspecting, he can point it out to you as he is seeing it. If he is not seeing frass and kick out holes, then ask him to explain why he suspects termites in that spot. If he does locate frass or kick out holes in other areas of the home, then you will need to fumigate the house. If that is the case, then get as many estimates as you can. Prices can vary wildly in this industry, so it pays to shop. Please let me know if that is the case, because I have important information that you need to know before you fumigate. If you use a mom-and-pop company instead of a national company, the inspector may just get a can of foam and treat it while he is there. This will save money. Again, the national companies often do not send out pest controllers who will be driving a pest control truck. They may arrive in a company car with no pesticides with them. That is because they are not licensed to treat anything. The mom-and-pop guy will probably show up in the truck he uses to treat jobs, so it is likely he will give you a good price to just do it now, if it's just treating the cabinets. I mean, he's there already, so it's just another 10 minutes of his time. If I was inspecting, I would probably treat it for free, just to obtain you as an ongoing customer. Not only would you use me for future problems, but you would brag about me to your friends and family. That's a good investment for $10 worth of foam. Not all pest controllers think that way though. Just the smart ones.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I was for 12 years pest control and I am learning here thanks
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Very engaging and helpful..thank you sir.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Hi there, thank you for this very helpful tip. Do termites attack exterior concrete brick walls (Autoclaved Aerated Concrete to be exact). The AAC block manufacturers advertise their blocks to not attract termites, unlike wood. The only wood in the house will probably be the interior walls. Thanks for taking time to address my question. I appreciate your time.
Termites do not attack concrete or brick and they do not have the ability to chew through it. However, they can find cracks and crevices in the concrete, or pipe penetrations that they can get through. Therefore, if you have wood in the house, then the termites may have the ability to find their way to it. Most of the time, even block houses have wood attached to the blocks on the exterior walls to allow the drywall to be hung, and the electrical wiring, and some of the plumbing to be run in the house. Your roof structure is most likely also made of wood, and it is not uncommon for the termites to find their way inside the blocks and then then build mud tubes up to the attic. This is particularly true if you live in a southern coastal state, California, or Hawaii.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions This is a most insightful response that will tremendously. Thank you for spending time to share with us what you know. I sincerely appreciate your expertise.
@@oldporkchops You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks. All the best in your endeavors too.
You are wonderful and your videos are superb. Many many thanks
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
thank you so much for that wonderful presentations .I am in the Philippines and it is a tropical country can you make a video for dry wood termites thank you in advance more power to you.
Thank you so much for those kind words. I do have a video on drywood termites. Actually, I have three of them. I will give you the links.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/neNsmVbj8Pc/видео.html
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ruclips.net/video/U7ck7zhS0Xo/видео.html
Video on drywood termite treatment options: ruclips.net/video/iD6NTU16-XQ/видео.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you again for the info. more power to you.
@@josephcuenca6320 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Ingenious tester design!
Is it invasive enough so as to be a minor source of the problem?
This is pure genius! Thank you for this video! Great information!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Very useful video! I've got a question: I've noticed worker termites about 25 feet away from my house eating on an old rotten stump. Should I be worried about getting termites in the house?
You should be very worried. I recommend that you do an inspection on your house and I recommend that you treat the stump. I will give you a link to my video on how to inspect for termites. Please let me know if you have them in the house and I will guide you further.
To treat the stump drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Video on how to inspect for termites: ruclips.net/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/видео.html
@GuysPestSolutions First off: I didn't think you'd respond. However, you ARE for real!!! Thanks a million!
To be honest, I was very worried about what I'd found out. That's how I saw your video and actually almost your entire video library. That's also the reason for returning the termite monitoring stations I bought back to Lowes, lol. That rotten stump is in front of the house along with two other live trees, about 25-30 ft from the slab. I was about to lay new mulch, and the bags were staying for a week or two. When I removed one of them(being on top of that stump), I saw the termites(maybe a handful). As soon as they were exposed, they disappeared inside that rotten stump. Now I know I have a colony nearby. As far as the house, we bought it in 2021, and the termite inspection showed no signs of termite activity (including mud tubes), but that was 3 years ago. I'll watch your video that sent me and perform house inspection, and I'll share the discoveries if you don't mind. Once again, I appreciate your response!
Harry
@@unbiasedreviews5978 Always my pleasure. Most RUclipsrs do not respond to questions because they would rather spend the time creating more videos to make more money, but I answer all of them and I do it in great detail. I don't do RUclips for the money. It's more about providing people with the assistance they need to save some money. So, I spend most of my time answering questions instead of making new videos. Just my way of paying it forward and I am more than happy to do it. You can feel free to ask me anything you like. Be well Harry.
I’m so grateful for all you do especially in this economy
@@corinasouthers9440 That is so kind of you to say. I am always happy to help. My pleasure. Be well my friend.
This is awesome information, So innovative and money saving idea. I'm trying this
Now this is for flying “dry wood” termites. I place a large brown of water under a light. When the termites are flying on a humid day at evening in Spring, they will fly right into the bowl with water.
No. This is not for drywood termites. This is for subterranean termites. If you see swarmers in your home, then you have an infestation.
It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home.
I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ruclips.net/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/видео.html
Video on how to prevent drywood termites: How to Prevent Drywood Termites 100% Guaranteed.
Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: How to Treat a Drywood Termite Infestation Yourself. A MUST see if you have Drywood termites.
@@GuysPestSolutions live in an area where we are well familiar with termites, both types. Yes they fly each year on warm, wind still, humid days around this time in May. Yes you are right the house needs to be fumigated and will be. In one of my homes a Professional even found an entire Foam Mattress in a storage area used by termites as their Nest. Quite unique and not even the Exterminator had ever seen anything like that.
Of course I want to do everything to kill or discourage (which I don’t think is possible) those termites to attack my home. My concern are those poisons on the health of humans. What else is there to kill them? Always searching for new innovative ideas. Will they get into PVC? I have changed to steel instead of wood, but es you say, they still find a way in to find wood.
@@DPoppell The termites cannot get through PVC. If you are concerned about the health aspects of pesticides, then please watch my video on the subject. Most pesticides are very safe now. Fumigation is still dangerous, but there are no health hazards after the job is finished. I hope that helps.
Video explaining how safe pesticides really are: ruclips.net/video/i7nLO6Js_3Q/видео.html
@@DPoppell A termite infested mattress is something you do not see every day. I have not seen that either. Thanks for sharing. Be well Doris.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My question is whether pine or fir wood is suitable. I have lots of scraps of two by fours, etc. that I can easily saw into half-inch by half inch pieces.
Termites will eat most wood types. I used balsa wood because it is easy to work with and the termites will make short work of it because it is so soft, but pine or fir is fine. Be well my friend. If you have tools, then use a drill to create a little hollow space in the tip of the stick. It will seat into the bottom of the bottle better, so it won't slip out easily. Most bottles have a little bump in the bottom center from manufacturing. So, just a little hole in the end will secure the stick better. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
You seem like a good dude, thanks for putting out this helpful, thorough and informative content! I believe I have termites inside of one of my structures (Ohio) and hope they aren't the drywood type, I'm not in a tropical environment so I can only assume it's the subterranean ones. This was my first video so I'll have to watch more to educate myself on the subject. Thanks again!
The only species you have in Ohio are a common type of subterranean termites that are very easy to treat. There are two options for treating subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. I have videos on how to do both options and I will place links below.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
You can give any subterranean termite treatment a bit of a boost by doing a spot treatment. If at all possible, spot treating for subterranean termites should not be the only approach to eliminate an infestation. An additional exterior treatment should also be done with either granules or trenching, whenever possible. Spot treating alone may totally eliminate the infestation with no other treatments, but it's not a sure thing.
To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites.
Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. If you have a slab home, then you may find them going up the outside of the house on the slab and even the side of the house. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites.
Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated.
It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to apply termite granules: ruclips.net/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/видео.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: ruclips.net/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/видео.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_5&=&crid=A0Q6FR5I5QQH&=&sprefix=termi
FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol
Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html