Thanks! I've been looking at many different builds for three or four years now. Yours it by far the best. I'll be starting a build in the near future. I've started to build a 16' X 24' workshop, will have to finish that first. I'll be back to your site often!
This is amazing. I run a small furniture company in the UK. We have been looking for a way to get CNC for a long time but it has always been out of our price range. Hopefully will be building this over the next few weeks!
I will keep you posted. At the moment i am trying to cost up the whole build. On another note, after i have succesfully done the build, i am considering scaling it up to cut 2440 x 1220mm board. What would be the issues of this?
If scaled to the size mentioned the axis's will lose some amount of stiffness. Probably still good for cutting wood. But metal will be out of the question. You'll have to alter the design to use GT belt as longer lengths of 8mm lead screw are almost hard to find.
I have had a quick look at i did see some 8mm lead screw at 2500mm. My worry is that the length of it will cause it the bow. Anyway i will focus on getting the original built then perhaps look at going bigger. Even at the size it is now it will really help our business.
its possible it will bow at that length, belt or 8mm screw will both have a high amount of elasticity at that length. Some experimentation maybe required. At least you know the size machine I build in the video is rock solid
Thanks for these videos. They're a great accomplishment of being complete as well as concise, with enjoyable presentation. I'm excited to build my own ox-metal with this great guidance.
7 лет назад
Awesome video mate, thanks a lot... it made me go a buy all the stuff and start building my own.... I wish you didn't cut parts of the video, example installing the Y axes and X axes, as well the installation of the wiring system, in certain way it was absolutely entertaining watching the whole explanation. Cheers
You are the only one that has made it look easy to construct and understanding the software, to the extent I want to build one the same size as your's, but cannot seem to find the information where or what to by. Can you help. Regards Lynton
I love the design and plan to begin sourcing parts to build a replica, I did have few questions. What would you say is the largest X/Y dimensions you would feel comfortable building with this design? What is best media for the 3d printed parts? I am getting a wide array of prices to have them printed, what should they cost approximately? In hindsight and all things considered is there anything you wished you would've done differently in the design and or build?Thanks in advancePatrick
Thanks. Personally I like the size I build, it enables me to machine alloy at a decent rate. But if you're only machining plastics, wood.etc you could stretch the dimensions. I'd recommend printing in PETG or a high quality ABS or ABS+. There isn't anything I'd change on my mill :)
Great video.Really helpful. I noticed someone questioning the 3D printed files. For info, I think they may have had trouble because some are in rar format. Essentially, that's a compressed file and the contents can be extracted with 7-Zip or similar utilities.
hi! the gantry plates file that i funde says to use 6082 aluminum 6mm thickness, would it make a difference if I'll use 6mm stainless steel instead? or it will be too heavy? awesome video! i cant wait to build it
I made a cnc based on cnc ox. I used the new gt3 pulley and it is quite strong. I made the machine with 1000x1000, but with the v-slot 2040 because it was what I had available. Now I have monetary availability to complete the machine with v-slot 2080 and 2060. Do you think the pulley holds the 1500mm 2080?
Hi you are great.. i will make the same CNC mill... question, witch Filament did you use... i dont understand it in your Video... PLA or ABS and Why? thanks
The filament I used is PETG. which is a very easy to print filament, very strong with reasonable temperature resistance. A quality ABS should work also.
Hi, Thanks for the video. I am heavely in 3D printing and now I was thinking of a mill... But all the set to buy are really expenssive (just for a try). So your video gave me all the input I need :-) I found some China stuff,which can be bought here in GErmany, but the price compared to the material provided, is much to high. So taking the money and doing it right, is the better way, I guess :-) Thanks again
I should have "done my research". I bought a "Bob's CNC E-3", the original kit because it was so highly rated, good customer support and it was my first CNC. Last week I spent 4 days getting it tightened up and running again, and I am extremely disappointed with the slop, and regret spending the $700 on the kit. Of course, I didn't know any better at the time. It is primarily made of wood which should have been an early red flag.
I haven't bothered with resolution tests, simply because it will be so miniscule for my applications. Speaking from experience measuring parts milled on this CNC mill, you can expect 0.01mm (0.0004 inch) tolerance provided everything is calibrated and built correctly.
I have just acquired most of the parts to build the OX-Metal CNC Router. My big dilemma concerns which stepper driver to use. I know you chose the CNC Xpro and I am looking at that as well as the TinyG and TinyG g2 by Syntheos. Do you have any recommendation enthuse units vs CNC XPro V2 or V3?
Great work ! and very detailed. I have already the regular GT2 driven OX Machine and would like to upgrade to your design. In the parts list however I dont see the blue coated parts needed for the leadscrew assembly.Are they available . Ilanon OpenBuilds or elsewhere ?. Thanks a lot for a reply
Awesome build. Looks really rigid and sturdy. Are your limit switches NO or NC? Also, I built a XY laser engraver using the V-slots with 3D printed plastic parts and after about 8 months I'm observing that they seem to losing their stiffness and the screws are warping out a little. Any such experience?
I wired my switches NO, however I've noticed with the CNC xPro v2 driver board I'm using , the board is only looking for a change of state. So you could wire it NO or NC. The type of filament is important, especially for this type of application. What type of filament was used to print your parts? I've been printing with PETG for over a couple years with similar applications and have never had any issues.
Ah I see. The board I use for my laser can set the limit switch modes as NC or NO. I'm also going to experiment with Hall effect switches which I'm told are for more resilient to noisy environments. I printed mine with PLA. Maybe that's why. I've heard of PETG and will give that a shot as well.
Sorry to say PLA is completely the wrong type of filament. PLA will deform over time, and is at risk of wapping out of shape at relatively low temperatures (as low as 40~50c) PETG can be tricky to print, but once you know how to tame it, its awesome. ABS+ is also another decent filament you could try and it's eaiser to print than PETG
Hi quick question I own a genmitsu 4030 cnc I’m looking to extend my c beam and leadscrew t10 so I have more working space do you have a idea if I have to change software if I do this upgrade
Hi from the Scottish Borders in the UK. Great to have you back and up & running again. About 18 months ago I built your OX metal CNC. This was my first venture into CNC and am now addicted. (Ask the wife !) Your machine is just fab and works great. I have added a few things to your original. A touch probe ( very handy), A laser pointer to determine zero axis, and run everything from a Raspberry Pi with BCNC software. My question is do you have any plans to upgrade the machine itself like extending the z axis for bigger carving projects. or, a 4th axis. Would love to see what you would come up with. Keep up the excellent channel. Cheers
Thanks kindly for your support! I do have some upgrades planned. I would like to upgrade the spindle. And add the option to swap out to a laser cutter/engraver.
Great video. I have a question. You keep mentioning "8 mm low profile screws" as you install them. I assume you are talking about the diameter of the screw and not its length. If so, where did you buy them? I have spent a lot of time trying to find 8 mm low profile screws but with NO luck; unless they are very long. I can find all manner of 5 MM low profile screws but not 8 MM, unless as I said, very long. I would appreciate knowing where you got them in shorter lengths. (Note: There is a pseudo 8 mm low profile screw that is sold in shorter lengths; but the height of the head is twice as thick as those you are using. IE: the heads are 5 mm high. I want the very low profile like you and "OpenBuilds" uses. Thank you so much, patdee
I want to know where I can get these pieces 1x Z limit mount 2x Y limit mount 2x X limit mount 2x Y Nema23 Mount 2x X Bearing Flange 1x X carriage Cablechain Mount 1x X carriage Leadscrew Mount 1x Y axis cablechain mount 1x Y Cablechain Roller 2x Y Leadscrew Mount 1x Y Leadscrew Spacer W roller 1x Y Leadscrew Spacer
Looking for some advise i am considering this build but rather than using the 3d printed parts fabricating steel brackets and using 8mm flanged Pillow Block Bearing for the lead screw would these introduce to much play?
I will be building this cnc soon. I was wondering if you plan on doing a video on installing the electronics or if you have any resources to help with this part? Thanks for the great build!
hi i am adil ,if you would like to build this cnc then you can email me at adilfreedi_84@hotmail.com for parts and complete building quid for cnc completion ....thanks
Wiring isn't as bad as one might first assume. Actually it's pretty simple. I might do a video on wiring up steppers in the future. However there is a lot of info online if you get stuck.
Schematix I having been looking more into it and I don't think it will be as bad as I first thought. I just got my parts in and will be starting the build soon. Thanks again!
Hi Everybody can we use this CNC machine on already installed ground tile or marble ? I mean what will happen when we dont install the bottom plywood ? can we just reach the tile or marble and start carving the designs on it? Thanks
Then how do you choose between all the different types? NEMA, hybrid, IP65,.... I would like to be able to use the final results for plastic, wood, aluminum and possibly steel. In this case that means I will be able to exchange the mill with a dremel on the fly if needed, but only if I can make it the motors strong enough.
@@michaelkelly3158 servo motors have only 10x expensive than open loop motor, yes have sure accurate but hobby user have stupid waste money servo. maybe if dad have millionaire then can,
nice solid build you have, welldone I would like to know what exact type of OX plate set u had used for your build , i am having difficult time to choose the right one to buy, please help...... you could precise the link of OX plates in your openbuild website, or draw the exact mesuring of it so we could mill it...... thank you.
The OX-Metal uses standard OX gantry plates. All the info for the plates can be found on the original OX build page including DXF drawings for the plates. www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/
What kind or spindles are supported for use on this? I am looking at at least a .800kw- 1.5kw water cooled spindle and I know I will need to find a mount for it but I was unsure of the flex support in the frame with the use of a higher torque spindle.
I thought the Y Leadscrew mount and Y Nema 23 mounts looked a little light on gussets/reinforcing. After 5 and a half hours printing the first Leadscrew mount (PETG), sure enough, it snapped off right where the gusset (chamfer) meets the upright section (the part that holds the bearing) while I was removing it from the print bed. I'll try printing it in a different orientation. If I had the CAD files, I'd add more support, but I don't know how to edit .stl files.
This is about a year too late but generally PETG has excellent layer adhesion. If you had a part break removing it from the print bed, I'd probably check your print settings before trying to redesign the part. Even in the wrong orientation, the part shouldn't break simply taking it off the print bed. You may have already tried it, but try printing with little or no cooling fan at 240c. I get good results, generally speaking, with PETG at those settings. If I lower to 220c or use more than about 20% cooling fan, I get some brittle parts. Since these are functional pieces, the extra cosmetic quality afforded by lower print temperatures and/or cooling isn't worth increased brittleness.
small budget cheapen build own not buy openbuild kit, aliexpress can orden all same parts 3x cheapen than openbuild store, kit have alltime lot expensive than order parts were found cheapen same.
Awesome videos, thanks for your hard work. Do you know where in NZ I could get the printed parts made in PETG? I do not have access to a 3D printer right now (although it is on the list) I would like to make this router
Personally I haven't used this service located in Auckland. But the reviews seem good. Have a look, it might be what you're looking for www.3dhubs.com/service/175930/3dprint
I understand the need to reduce costs but I much rather prefer linear rails over the wheels. Linear rails are quite an expense, but the accuracy, repeat-ability, and durability can't be beat.
quality Router cutting bits can become rather expensive but a Dewalt 611 goes for around $120. purchase the other parts from the part store! openbuildspartstore.com/
FearlessVampireKiller. No I'm not talking about just the router I meant the whole CNC router machine where did you get it and what can I expect to pay for something like that. Thanks Jim
Jim....you can learn how to make them online...there are many CAD models and instructions complete for free online (for instance just one site of many that has many different versions of the same router (known as the 'OX' design) can be found by googling "OXcnc" and going to the website. As far as the cost....well that question is similar to asking 'how much does a table saw cost' or how much does a 'truck' cost....it depends on the table saw and the features and where you buy it from and it depends on the truck you want....there are some trucks that you might be able to buy new for ?? 20000 dollars...there are also some that cost more than 150 thousand (I am sure if I looked a bit I could find such an asking price). Your question is so general it is impossible to give a 'decent' answer...IMHO (in my humble opinion).
as for the cost of arouter type cnc for wood and light aluminum routing....well you ballpark.....0 dollars plus a whol lot of 'time'....to ....a crappy one for ?? 500 dollars ISH (just pulling a number out of the air and assuming that is bottom of the barrel for mostly pre-fabricated factory designed version....that price is still honestly a bit lower than mainstream (i.e. you would have a hard time finding a CNC for that price...let alone one that was worth much...I might be wrong...but it is a ballpark pulled out of thin air to help you. The answer was a bit late in coming I know, but late is better than no answer at all right?
Just wanted to let you know it seems your don't have the z couplers in your parts list. I caught it but just wanted others to not have to think about it an just get everything ordered at once.
Hi! I have a problem with machine, I completed the assembly but when I want to use the machine, the machine have problem. I have tried to machine a simple circle but it is deformed, I think that the axes have some blur but I don't know how to know what the real problem is. Can anybody help me?
Anyone know if there is a conversion Video to lead screw, where it shows what you need to print and fit if you already have the belt version of the ox??
Do you have an approx cost for the parts list you have here? It's really quite time consuming going back a forth pricing each item one at a time. Also what Country is the parts company located?
At the time it cost me $2k NZD rounded. There are suppliers all over the world. If you put the time and effort into finding local deals to cut shipping costs down it's worth it.
$100 for the 4 motors, $100-150 for the plates, $100-150+/- for the v-slot frame, $100 in wheels and maybe another $100-$250+/- in bolts and spacers and washers, $17-$250 in shipping so rough cost maybe around a grand for the whole rig. Openbuilds part store is really your best source and all the parts are the same price or cheaper than any china supplier. You might save around $20 if you can buy in bulk enough spacers and wheels to build multiple machines, and are willing to wait 6+ weeks, and are feeling lucky. My order arrived in 3 days direct from the Openbuilds part store and if they are out of stock on the site, try their amazon or ebay storefronts. Plates and parts are also available from several other awesome OpenB affiliates including the excellent SWM3D.com.
Hi can you please inform to the thickness of your gantry plates? i ordered all the parts you listed as i like your build. I received 7mm gantry plates as per your parts list, will they suit your files re the 6mm? or do i have to order new one? please help
I didn't specify the thickness of the gantry plates. Largely because the 3D part files come in 2 different sizes (4mm & 6mm) which covers the majority. 7mm is a rather odd thickness I must say. However I think you'll be able to get it to work. I'd recommend using the 6mm part files. Most of the mounts will work with a couple exceptions being touched up with a metal file to make room for the extra mm.
Hello dear friend, you are amazing!!!!, thank you for your project, is really good!!!, I have one question: Could I use Driver A4988 for move the OpenBuilds Motor of 2.8A or is best use the DRV882?, thank you for your attention dear, have a perfect day! :')
oh!, one more question dear... for the 9mm spacer in the X carriage... what is the separation into the Aluminium profile and Aluminium profile... is safe buld with 9mm spacer or is best idea Precision Shim???
Gostei! Kara me passa como se instala os três motores na placa de uma cnc, eu tenho 3 motores de uma ploter de recorte Bobcat-GCC, Motor soho 7E4055B-23080-20Y -DS-RH ,TAIWAN ?
So you mean any spindle can be controlled by any stepper driver controller boards? Like this one www.isaleti.com/Makita-M3700M-Dik-Freze-Makinesi,PR-16612.html ?
Hey, can you tell me that from where did you bought the mechanical parts of this frame that includes aluminium extrusions and the aluminium plates that are used to attach the sliding wheels?
Thinking about building this. What's the correct Nema23 type you are using? High Torque? I see there are different types. The housing of the one's used in the vid seem longer than the one's in the parts list.
Fortunately with a build like this a wide range of Nema 23's will work. Some people like to match the motor current rating to the output current of the stepper driver. The motors I bought are on the large side for a build like this. From memory they are rated at 3amps current. The ones listed in the build list will work fine for this build
Ordered all the parts last night... so.. fingers crossed everything works out. Today I already received the first parts; MR105-2RS Bearings. Guess those are left-overs from the original OX parts list, which used Nema17's, because I can not find out where they go in the Metal version. Or am I missing something here? What would be the best suitable spindle to match the rest of the machine as far as KW go? 0,8KW 1,5KW 2,2KW? Don't want to use a separate device such as DeWalt, Kress or Makita because of the screaming noise they produce (my GF, neighbors blaa blaa bla). I also want the spindle speed to be controlled by the software, for it to be (fairly-)quiet and stop automatically when the job is done. Looking into the Huan Yang spindles at this point. Anyway... thanks for all the work you put into this build and your reply. Just created an OpenBuild account. So maybe I will contact you in the near future thru their website if I need any advice or help regarding my OX-Metal build ;-)
@@NoXs4u cnc NOT newer used nema 17 motors, its only roy and 3D and laser motors no torque move if cut wood and aluminium, minimum have nema 23 3Nm motors.
Sorry to keep bugging you but I bought the gantry plates and they say they are 6.6mm thick. And your STL files say either 4mm or 6mm will they need to be modified or will it still work?
i just fight my makita router to trash and buy real spindle, lot better and cheapen and no noise lot. makita has horriple noise, all neighbours sau not use ewening you router newer again.
So I'm looking to get the 3d parts printed. I remember you commenting on one of your videos that you recommended a particular material to print them in. What was that material? I cant seem to find that part of your video again.
Do you have links to the other 3d parts you used? All I've seen is is the vacuum parts and the router clamp parts. I have just purchased most of the parts for this.
Thats awesome! best of luck with the build. The 3D part files are found with a link in the description. Scroll down and select either 4mm or 6mm part files.rar (the 4 or 6mm refers to the thickness of the material your gantry plates are made from)
I wouldn't recommend upsizing this design to a scale such as you mentioned. Simply put in my opinion the machine would be to 'jelly' to provide accurate cuts.
I'd recommend at looking for something more industrial. And probably not DIY. Yes it's doable at home. But would take a fair amount of time, money, and trial and error. :)
Well the list is a little longer than just those 3 items you mentioned. I can't give you a complete list of hardware just for the conversion. Best you watch the video and workout the hardware list you'll need for the conversion.
Not that I'm aware of. There are plenty of options out there for 3D printing services. Basically you tell them what you want printed, they quote you a price and ship it to your door.
great vid . I'll be looking this up .are you from New Zealand ? have you got recommend seller of these to ship here is parts list . keep up the gppd work cheers
Hey, yes I'm in NZ, I bought most of the components from Openbuilds, However I did buy the V-slot locally from Auckland. Their website is cnckits.co.nz Since the V-slot is rather long it saved a great amount for shipping
After all it's said and done about how much $ this build cost, I quickly looked at some parts and just in those little wheels that you need 28 of them that's almost $200 and that's just a small part
Thanks! I've been looking at many different builds for three or four years now. Yours it by far the best. I'll be starting a build in the near future. I've started to build a 16' X 24' workshop, will have to finish that first. I'll be back to your site often!
This is amazing. I run a small furniture company in the UK. We have been looking for a way to get CNC for a long time but it has always been out of our price range. Hopefully will be building this over the next few weeks!
That's awesome to hear! hope the build goes smoothly :)
I will keep you posted. At the moment i am trying to cost up the whole build. On another note, after i have succesfully done the build, i am considering scaling it up to cut 2440 x 1220mm board. What would be the issues of this?
If scaled to the size mentioned the axis's will lose some amount of stiffness. Probably still good for cutting wood. But metal will be out of the question. You'll have to alter the design to use GT belt as longer lengths of 8mm lead screw are almost hard to find.
I have had a quick look at i did see some 8mm lead screw at 2500mm. My worry is that the length of it will cause it the bow. Anyway i will focus on getting the original built then perhaps look at going bigger. Even at the size it is now it will really help our business.
its possible it will bow at that length, belt or 8mm screw will both have a high amount of elasticity at that length. Some experimentation maybe required. At least you know the size machine I build in the video is rock solid
Thank you so much for the detailed build video. I've been wondering how exactly the Z axis for the OX fits together and this helps a ton!
I have watched a lot of videos on subject of CNC, I should mention that your video is the best of all. thank you very much
Thank you for the feedback :)
Very nice to build and good to follow even in playback mode 150% ,but everything is in inch.
Thanks for these videos. They're a great accomplishment of being complete as well as concise, with enjoyable presentation. I'm excited to build my own ox-metal with this great guidance.
Awesome video mate, thanks a lot... it made me go a buy all the stuff and start building my own.... I wish you didn't cut parts of the video, example installing the Y axes and X axes, as well the installation of the wiring system, in certain way it was absolutely entertaining watching the whole explanation. Cheers
You are the only one that has made it look easy to construct and understanding the software, to the extent I want to build one the same size as your's, but cannot seem to find the information where or what to by. Can you help.
Regards Lynton
Thanks! There are links in the video's description
www.openbuilds.com/builds/ox-metal-cnc-router-mill.3681/
As a newbie to the world of cnc routers i find your video of great help in getti n g a good understanding of whats involved. Thanks for the effort.
Thanks for the feedback! :D
Schematix hi
hi fit and gab me ur nambar
Great build. Did you start with a OX base kit and add the screws or build totally from scratch?
Nice tutorial....what type of CNC controller used by this CNC , where to by
I love the design and plan to begin sourcing parts to build a replica, I did have few questions. What would you say is the largest X/Y dimensions you would feel comfortable building with this design? What is best media for the 3d printed parts? I am getting a wide array of prices to have them printed, what should they cost approximately? In hindsight and all things considered is there anything you wished you would've done differently in the design and or build?Thanks in advancePatrick
Thanks. Personally I like the size I build, it enables me to machine alloy at a decent rate. But if you're only machining plastics, wood.etc you could stretch the dimensions. I'd recommend printing in PETG or a high quality ABS or ABS+. There isn't anything I'd change on my mill :)
Great video.Really helpful. I noticed someone questioning the 3D printed files. For info, I think they may have had trouble because some are in rar format. Essentially, that's a compressed file and the contents can be extracted with 7-Zip or similar utilities.
hi! the gantry plates file that i funde says to use 6082 aluminum 6mm thickness, would it make a difference if I'll use 6mm stainless steel instead? or it will be too heavy? awesome video! i cant wait to build it
I made a cnc based on cnc ox. I used the new gt3 pulley and it is quite strong.
I made the machine with 1000x1000, but with the v-slot 2040 because it was what I had available. Now I have monetary availability to complete the machine with v-slot 2080 and 2060. Do you think the pulley holds the 1500mm 2080?
belt not newer have strong at cnc worst all idea, screw need be or rack and pinion steel not aluminium.
Hi you are great.. i will make the same CNC mill... question, witch Filament did you use... i dont understand it in your Video... PLA or ABS and Why? thanks
The filament I used is PETG. which is a very easy to print filament, very strong with reasonable temperature resistance. A quality ABS should work also.
I would love to do this but having the printed part is a challenge for me. are you able to provide a link for me for a purchase. I'm here in NZ
Awesome Build. I have been looking for a simple but quality design and I like your mods.
Hi,
Thanks for the video. I am heavely in 3D printing and now I was thinking of a mill...
But all the set to buy are really expenssive (just for a try).
So your video gave me all the input I need :-)
I found some China stuff,which can be bought here in GErmany, but the price compared to the material provided, is much to high.
So taking the money and doing it right, is the better way, I guess :-)
Thanks again
openbuild parts have super expensive, all same parts can orden aliexpress 3x cheapen ,totally same parts.
I should have "done my research". I bought a "Bob's CNC E-3", the original kit because it was so highly rated, good customer support and it was my first CNC. Last week I spent 4 days getting it tightened up and running again, and I am extremely disappointed with the slop, and regret spending the $700 on the kit. Of course, I didn't know any better at the time. It is primarily made of wood which should have been an early red flag.
Great build. I am planning to give it a shot. What is the accuracy of this machine?
Thanks. What exactly do mean by "accuracy"?
I mean resolution of positioning and positioning repeatability.
I haven't bothered with resolution tests, simply because it will be so miniscule for my applications. Speaking from experience measuring parts milled on this CNC mill, you can expect 0.01mm (0.0004 inch) tolerance provided everything is calibrated and built correctly.
That's great. Thank you
I have just acquired most of the parts to build the OX-Metal CNC Router. My big dilemma concerns which stepper driver to use. I know you chose the CNC Xpro and I am looking at that as well as the TinyG and TinyG g2 by Syntheos. Do you have any recommendation enthuse units vs CNC XPro V2 or V3?
I'd recommend the CNC xPro boards. Very easy setup with a solid amount of features.
Great work ! and very detailed. I have already the regular GT2 driven OX Machine and would like to upgrade to your design. In the parts list however I dont see the blue coated parts needed for the leadscrew assembly.Are they available . Ilanon OpenBuilds or elsewhere ?. Thanks a lot for a reply
The blue parts are the 3D printed parts he refers to in the video. Check the link that refers to ThingVerse.
Thank a lot, Regards
Awesome build. Looks really rigid and sturdy. Are your limit switches NO or NC? Also, I built a XY laser engraver using the V-slots with 3D printed plastic parts and after about 8 months I'm observing that they seem to losing their stiffness and the screws are warping out a little. Any such experience?
I wired my switches NO, however I've noticed with the CNC xPro v2 driver board I'm using , the board is only looking for a change of state. So you could wire it NO or NC. The type of filament is important, especially for this type of application. What type of filament was used to print your parts? I've been printing with PETG for over a couple years with similar applications and have never had any issues.
Ah I see. The board I use for my laser can set the limit switch modes as NC or NO. I'm also going to experiment with Hall effect switches which I'm told are for more resilient to noisy environments. I printed mine with PLA. Maybe that's why. I've heard of PETG and will give that a shot as well.
Sorry to say PLA is completely the wrong type of filament. PLA will deform over time, and is at risk of wapping out of shape at relatively low temperatures (as low as 40~50c) PETG can be tricky to print, but once you know how to tame it, its awesome. ABS+ is also another decent filament you could try and it's eaiser to print than PETG
Got it. Looking forward to building this soon.
This is really cool. I'm looking for a successor for my ShapeOko 1. Will be looking into this.
Hi quick question I own a genmitsu 4030 cnc I’m looking to extend my c beam and leadscrew t10 so I have more working space do you have a idea if I have to change software if I do this upgrade
Hi from the Scottish Borders in the UK.
Great to have you back and up & running again. About 18 months ago I built your OX metal CNC. This was my first venture into CNC and am now addicted. (Ask the wife !)
Your machine is just fab and works great. I have added a few things to your original. A touch probe ( very handy), A laser pointer to determine zero axis, and run everything from a Raspberry Pi with BCNC software.
My question is do you have any plans to upgrade the machine itself like extending the z axis for bigger carving projects. or, a 4th axis. Would love to see what you would come up with.
Keep up the excellent channel.
Cheers
Thanks kindly for your support! I do have some upgrades planned. I would like to upgrade the spindle. And add the option to swap out to a laser cutter/engraver.
@@Schematix. Oh wow.... That's brilliant. My next project was going to build a stand alone laser cutter but now.... Can't wait.
Cheers
Tom
thanks for showing mate..much appreciated
Great video. I have a question. You keep mentioning "8 mm low profile screws" as you install them. I assume you are talking about the diameter of the screw and not its length. If so, where did you buy them? I have spent a lot of time trying to find 8 mm low profile screws but with NO luck; unless they are very long.
I can find all manner of 5 MM low profile screws but not 8 MM, unless as I said, very long.
I would appreciate knowing where you got them in shorter lengths. (Note: There is a pseudo 8 mm low profile screw that is sold in shorter lengths; but the height of the head is twice as thick as those you are using. IE: the heads are 5 mm high. I want the very low profile like you and "OpenBuilds" uses.
Thank you so much,
patdee
8mm in length. all the screws are M5 .8 pitch
NICE video! there is a probleme with the google drive files. can you do smthg please?
bro just for your help to others u got a thumbs up
Thanks ;)
could you use C beams instead of the v slot you used for the y axis?
i was thinking it might be better for keeping out swarf
Looks like I can only find 20x80 size extrusions are the only ones in stock. Can I build the whole machine with that? :) Great build by the way!
I want to know where I can get these pieces
1x Z limit mount
2x Y limit mount
2x X limit mount
2x Y Nema23 Mount
2x X Bearing Flange
1x X carriage Cablechain Mount
1x X carriage Leadscrew Mount
1x Y axis cablechain mount
1x Y Cablechain Roller
2x Y Leadscrew Mount
1x Y Leadscrew Spacer W roller
1x Y Leadscrew Spacer
where i can buy
Looking for some advise i am considering this build but rather than using the 3d printed parts fabricating steel brackets and using 8mm flanged Pillow Block Bearing for the lead screw would these introduce to much play?
I can't see why your plan won't work. Steel brackets should do nicely!
I will be building this cnc soon. I was wondering if you plan on doing a video on installing the electronics or if you have any resources to help with this part? Thanks for the great build!
hi i am adil ,if you would like to build this cnc then you can email me at adilfreedi_84@hotmail.com
for parts and complete building quid for cnc completion ....thanks
Wiring isn't as bad as one might first assume. Actually it's pretty simple. I might do a video on wiring up steppers in the future. However there is a lot of info online if you get stuck.
Schematix I having been looking more into it and I don't think it will be as bad as I first thought. I just got my parts in and will be starting the build soon.
Thanks again!
Hi Everybody
can we use this CNC machine on already installed ground tile or marble ? I mean what will happen when we dont install the bottom plywood ? can we just reach the tile or marble and start carving the designs on it?
Thanks
Love the build. Question to the stepper motors: Do they effect how well the machine can mill/engrave harder materials?
You need a powerful enough stepper motor to avoid skipping steps which would ruin whatever you're milling at the time. :)
Then how do you choose between all the different types? NEMA, hybrid, IP65,.... I would like to be able to use the final results for plastic, wood, aluminum and possibly steel. In this case that means I will be able to exchange the mill with a dremel on the fly if needed, but only if I can make it the motors strong enough.
I keep hearing about stepper motors.. what about servo motors? They give better accuracy do they not?
@@michaelkelly3158 servo motors have only 10x expensive than open loop motor, yes have sure accurate but hobby user have stupid waste money servo. maybe if dad have millionaire then can,
Do you think that the machine would be stable in 1500x1500mm configuration, by simply extending the length of the leadscrews, and v-slot profiles?
Yes you could. You'd have to machine harder materials slower to avoid backlash.
Gotcha, thanks for the response.
i love the build i would like to make it i was wondering if you had plans in PDF form?
nice solid build you have, welldone
I would like to know what exact type of OX plate set u had used for your build , i am having difficult time to choose the right one to buy, please help......
you could precise the link of OX plates in your openbuild website, or draw the exact mesuring of it so we could mill it......
thank you.
The OX-Metal uses standard OX gantry plates. All the info for the plates can be found on the original OX build page including DXF drawings for the plates. www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/
thank u soo much for the reply
I'd advise you to go to Xcarve to buy a good router system, it's simple & easy looks good and runs good
@@dennisrobinson1290 xcarve is garbage, so why are u advising someone to buy it? It is over priced and can be built for much cheaper.
What kind or spindles are supported for use on this? I am looking at at least a .800kw- 1.5kw water cooled spindle and I know I will need to find a mount for it but I was unsure of the flex support in the frame with the use of a higher torque spindle.
I.m.o one of the best out there.
I thought the Y Leadscrew mount and Y Nema 23 mounts looked a little light on gussets/reinforcing. After 5 and a half hours printing the first Leadscrew mount (PETG), sure enough, it snapped off right where the gusset (chamfer) meets the upright section (the part that holds the bearing) while I was removing it from the print bed.
I'll try printing it in a different orientation. If I had the CAD files, I'd add more support, but I don't know how to edit .stl files.
This is about a year too late but generally PETG has excellent layer adhesion. If you had a part break removing it from the print bed, I'd probably check your print settings before trying to redesign the part. Even in the wrong orientation, the part shouldn't break simply taking it off the print bed. You may have already tried it, but try printing with little or no cooling fan at 240c. I get good results, generally speaking, with PETG at those settings. If I lower to 220c or use more than about 20% cooling fan, I get some brittle parts. Since these are functional pieces, the extra cosmetic quality afforded by lower print temperatures and/or cooling isn't worth increased brittleness.
how much did it cost you to make all this stuff, because i want to build mine as will and i dont have a big budget. awesome build though.
small budget cheapen build own not buy openbuild kit, aliexpress can orden all same parts 3x cheapen than openbuild store, kit have alltime lot expensive than order parts were found cheapen same.
Awesome videos, thanks for your hard work. Do you know where in NZ I could get the printed parts made in PETG? I do not have access to a 3D printer right now (although it is on the list) I would like to make this router
Personally I haven't used this service located in Auckland. But the reviews seem good. Have a look, it might be what you're looking for www.3dhubs.com/service/175930/3dprint
I understand the need to reduce costs but I much rather prefer linear rails over the wheels. Linear rails are quite an expense, but the accuracy, repeat-ability, and durability can't be beat.
Just one more little side note about the project on Openbuilds.com you seem to have left out the m5x30's
Thx for letting me know! I'll update the list.
what is the cost of the CNC router and where can you purchase one I'm in the USA thanks for your help nice job
quality Router cutting bits can become rather expensive but a Dewalt 611 goes for around $120.
purchase the other parts from the part store!
openbuildspartstore.com/
FearlessVampireKiller. No I'm not talking about just the router I meant the whole CNC router machine where did you get it and what can I expect to pay for something like that. Thanks Jim
Jim....you can learn how to make them online...there are many CAD models and instructions complete for free online (for instance just one site of many that has many different versions of the same router (known as the 'OX' design) can be found by googling "OXcnc" and going to the website. As far as the cost....well that question is similar to asking 'how much does a table saw cost' or how much does a 'truck' cost....it depends on the table saw and the features and where you buy it from and it depends on the truck you want....there are some trucks that you might be able to buy new for ?? 20000 dollars...there are also some that cost more than 150 thousand (I am sure if I looked a bit I could find such an asking price). Your question is so general it is impossible to give a 'decent' answer...IMHO (in my humble opinion).
as for the cost of arouter type cnc for wood and light aluminum routing....well you ballpark.....0 dollars plus a whol lot of 'time'....to ....a crappy one for ?? 500 dollars ISH (just pulling a number out of the air and assuming that is bottom of the barrel for mostly pre-fabricated factory designed version....that price is still honestly a bit lower than mainstream (i.e. you would have a hard time finding a CNC for that price...let alone one that was worth much...I might be wrong...but it is a ballpark pulled out of thin air to help you. The answer was a bit late in coming I know, but late is better than no answer at all right?
so wont the router over heat because it isnt liquid cooled at all? you wouldnt be able to run this for longer periods of time right???
Nope its air cooled. And i've run it for hours without any issues.
Just wanted to let you know it seems your don't have the z couplers in your parts list. I caught it but just wanted others to not have to think about it an just get everything ordered at once.
Ah thanks for letting me know! Must have skipped that somehow. Parts list has been updated :)
hi like your setup would like to know much it cost
Are you still active and replying to questions on the OX Metal??
Solid thorough excellent work. Impressive.
This is an amazing guide. Thank you for making this
1 question: can i adapt this pattern so i could build a larger bed cnc router? something like 2x2 meters?
Motor available with kit or i would to buy extra?
Hi!
I have a problem with machine, I completed the assembly but when I want to use the machine, the machine have problem.
I have tried to machine a simple circle but it is deformed, I think that the axes have some blur but I don't know how to know what the real problem is.
Can anybody help me?
Anyone know if there is a conversion Video to lead screw, where it shows what you need to print and fit if you already
have the belt version of the ox??
Why aren't any of these type wheels able to be tightened without binding bearings?
how much did this cost to built?
Hello
How much money can you make and send to the Polish blue parts ????
Do you have an approx cost for the parts list you have here? It's really quite time consuming going back a forth pricing each item one at a time. Also what Country is the parts company located?
At the time it cost me $2k NZD rounded. There are suppliers all over the world. If you put the time and effort into finding local deals to cut shipping costs down it's worth it.
Will this mill carbon fibre with the vaccum mod?
so how much would it cost approximately build this machine keeping in mind i live in the USA ????
$100 for the 4 motors, $100-150 for the plates, $100-150+/- for the v-slot frame, $100 in wheels and maybe another $100-$250+/- in bolts and spacers and washers, $17-$250 in shipping so rough cost maybe around a grand for the whole rig.
Openbuilds part store is really your best source and all the parts are the same price or cheaper than any china supplier. You might save around $20 if you can buy in bulk enough spacers and wheels to build multiple machines, and are willing to wait 6+ weeks, and are feeling lucky. My order arrived in 3 days direct from the Openbuilds part store and if they are out of stock on the site, try their amazon or ebay storefronts. Plates and parts are also available from several other awesome OpenB affiliates including the excellent SWM3D.com.
Hi can you please inform to the thickness of your gantry plates? i ordered all the parts you listed as i like your build.
I received 7mm gantry plates as per your parts list, will they suit your files re the 6mm? or do i have to order new one? please help
I didn't specify the thickness of the gantry plates. Largely because the 3D part files come in 2 different sizes (4mm & 6mm) which covers the majority. 7mm is a rather odd thickness I must say. However I think you'll be able to get it to work. I'd recommend using the 6mm part files. Most of the mounts will work with a couple exceptions being touched up with a metal file to make room for the extra mm.
Thanks for the reply
nice build!! I like how you did the drive mod.
Hello dear friend, you are amazing!!!!, thank you for your project, is really good!!!, I have one question: Could I use Driver A4988 for move the OpenBuilds Motor of 2.8A or is best use the DRV882?, thank you for your attention dear, have a perfect day! :')
I'm running nema 23's that can handle 3amps max, however I'm only driving them at 1.5amps. Works perfectly for me
Schematix oh I see, then not present a problem use 1.5A?, very nice!!!, thank you very much dear!!!
No problems :)
oh!, one more question dear... for the 9mm spacer in the X carriage... what is the separation into the Aluminium profile and Aluminium profile... is safe buld with 9mm spacer or is best idea Precision Shim???
Spacers should work fine for that
warmly welcome
Can you send me the length of the alumi profiles that you used to build? whose length is centimeters long
thank you very much
takimamemail@gmail.com
Thanks for the breakdown of parts!
What's the budget for this project?
diy home made about less than 1000$ kit buy 2000-5000$
Gostei! Kara me passa como se instala os três motores na placa de uma cnc, eu tenho 3 motores de uma ploter de recorte Bobcat-GCC, Motor soho 7E4055B-23080-20Y -DS-RH ,TAIWAN ?
olá onde compro estes matérias para montar uma cnc desta
So you mean any spindle can be controlled by any stepper driver controller boards? Like this one www.isaleti.com/Makita-M3700M-Dik-Freze-Makinesi,PR-16612.html ?
better use air cooled REAL 800W ER16 spindle lot less noise and cheapen.
Can you make this a 4x4 by just adjusting the length.
The most impressive part is his shirt
Hey, can you tell me that from where did you bought the mechanical parts of this frame that includes aluminium extrusions and the aluminium plates that are used to attach the sliding wheels?
www.openbuilds.com/builds/ox-metal-cnc-router-mill.3681/#openbuilds_parts_list
did you know where can find the full 3D parts?, on open build its missing the rest of the parts.
thank you
Thinking about building this. What's the correct Nema23 type you are using? High Torque? I see there are different types. The housing of the one's used in the vid seem longer than the one's in the parts list.
Fortunately with a build like this a wide range of Nema 23's will work. Some people like to match the motor current rating to the output current of the stepper driver. The motors I bought are on the large side for a build like this. From memory they are rated at 3amps current. The ones listed in the build list will work fine for this build
Ordered all the parts last night... so.. fingers crossed everything works out. Today I already received the first parts; MR105-2RS Bearings. Guess those are left-overs from the original OX parts list, which used Nema17's, because I can not find out where they go in the Metal version. Or am I missing something here?
What would be the best suitable spindle to match the rest of the machine as far as KW go? 0,8KW 1,5KW 2,2KW? Don't want to use a separate device such as DeWalt, Kress or Makita because of the screaming noise they produce (my GF, neighbors blaa blaa bla). I also want the spindle speed to be controlled by the software, for it to be (fairly-)quiet and stop automatically when the job is done. Looking into the Huan Yang spindles at this point.
Anyway... thanks for all the work you put into this build and your reply. Just created an OpenBuild account. So maybe I will contact you in the near future thru their website if I need any advice or help regarding my OX-Metal build ;-)
nema 23 4A 3Nm normal used. best have nema 34 6-8A 12Nm torque.
@@NoXs4u cnc NOT newer used nema 17 motors, its only roy and 3D and laser motors no torque move if cut wood and aluminium, minimum have nema 23 3Nm motors.
Very nice work and cnc look nice , can you make DXF file for this machine please. TKS
What do you need a DXF for?
Me too need for laser cut DXF file
DXF files can be found on the original OX build here: www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/
On these types of machines can you swap out the router for a laser?
Yes, One day I hope to include a laser cutter/engraver on my OX-Metal
can use spindle and bit,laser,cutting knife,
Is there is a full list of the components, and where can I buy this because here in belgium is difficult to come to these parts
www.openbuilds.com/builds/ox-metal-cnc-router-mill.3681/#openbuilds_parts_list
Sorry to keep bugging you but I bought the gantry plates and they say they are 6.6mm thick. And your STL files say either 4mm or 6mm will they need to be modified or will it still work?
That's alright, it should work just fine. 0.6mm should affect anything.
Thanks so much
I am looking at purchasing a router for woodwork that I can later use on a cnc machine, is the makita a good choice? rto700c?
yes, it fine for both applications. only the feeding speed is eventually limited.
i just fight my makita router to trash and buy real spindle, lot better and cheapen and no noise lot. makita has horriple noise, all neighbours sau not use ewening you router newer again.
How can i buy this materials with shipping To Saudi Arabai pls advice
So I'm looking to get the 3d parts printed. I remember you commenting on one of your videos that you recommended a particular material to print them in. What was that material? I cant seem to find that part of your video again.
Preferably a co-polyester plastic. PETG, PET, Colorfabb XT, Taulman T-Glase should all work good. I get my PETG from 3D Creator in Canada
How does this compare to something like an x carve or shapeoko?
Naturally I have a bias opinion ;) But in reality it comes down to what you intend to use your cnc mill for.
Schematix I need something that can be extremely precise in cutting acrylic sheets 1/4 and 1/2 in thick
Do you have links to the other 3d parts you used? All I've seen is is the vacuum parts and the router clamp parts. I have just purchased most of the parts for this.
Thats awesome! best of luck with the build. The 3D part files are found with a link in the description. Scroll down and select either 4mm or 6mm part files.rar (the 4 or 6mm refers to the thickness of the material your gantry plates are made from)
+Schematix thanks so much I'll take another look at the thingiverse page.
Qual as medidas dos parafusos para a montagem das rodinhas.
Thanks for another great review
Great video!. All the best.
Hello my friend....link for google drive dont work for me .....is it functionally ? Regards :)
Please plywood template reshared
I want to build something that has a cutting area of 1200mm x 2400mm, is this possible with these plans?
I wouldn't recommend upsizing this design to a scale such as you mentioned. Simply put in my opinion the machine would be to 'jelly' to provide accurate cuts.
Schematix what do you recommend instead
I'd recommend at looking for something more industrial. And probably not DIY. Yes it's doable at home. But would take a fair amount of time, money, and trial and error. :)
Do you know wether it is easily possible to upgrade a "normal" ox cnc by ooznest to your "metal" version?
Yes it is possible. If you've built an OX before, upgrading to the Metal shouldn't be difficult at all.
Ok nice! Am I assuming right that the only things I need would be your 3D printed parts and the lead screws and the anti-backlash nut blocks thingies?
Well the list is a little longer than just those 3 items you mentioned. I can't give you a complete list of hardware just for the conversion. Best you watch the video and workout the hardware list you'll need for the conversion.
Oh sorry, yes I just realized it! Do you mind sending the list to you in a few months when I've done it, so you can add it to your OpenBuilds page?
Sounds good :)
Well done!
Can I buy it in a complete set?
Can the 3D printed parts for this upgrade be purchased anywhere?
Not that I'm aware of. There are plenty of options out there for 3D printing services. Basically you tell them what you want printed, they quote you a price and ship it to your door.
Okay. Thanks.
great vid . I'll be looking this up .are you from New Zealand ? have you got recommend seller of these to ship here is parts list . keep up the gppd work cheers
sorry just seen your open builds link . cheers
Hey, yes I'm in NZ, I bought most of the components from Openbuilds, However I did buy the V-slot locally from Auckland. Their website is cnckits.co.nz Since the V-slot is rather long it saved a great amount for shipping
probably a silly question but did you cut the vslot to size ? cnc kits only have in 500mm differences .if so what did you use to cut ? cheers :)
I used a drop saw with appropriate blade for cutting the vslot
started buying stuff, just a bit lost on what gantry and carriage plates to go for would you have a direct link for them ? cheers
After all it's said and done about how much $ this build cost, I quickly looked at some parts and just in those little wheels that you need 28 of them that's almost $200 and that's just a small part