I've built the ox with the belts. It's indeed not very stiff. Also, the x axis flexes quite a bit. I think in that regard the metal version is the same. Ballscrews help of course, but the pom rollers with bolts as axles also have quite a bit of flex. It's ok for wood but only just able to cut aluminium, with very shallow cuts and high spindle speeds which risk half melting the aluminium and clogging up the cutter. Compressed air nozzle helps a lot for chip evacuation, regulated down to about 2 to 3 bar. Sinle flute cutter helps for roughing out material, though boring smaller holes will clog it up in no time. I like two flutes for that better with either spiral or pecking with partial retracts. If you can avoid slotting, do so. Especially if you cut aal the way through the alu, the bits that come loose may jam the cutter making it fly in all directions (holding torque in a belt system is not strong enough to overcome the forces of the spindle when things spin out of control). I used a 1.5kw chinese spindle, er11, aircooled. It does make beautiful cuts in wood. I'm building a new cnc with the ox with linear rails and ballscrews on all axes. All plates are 20mm aluminium. Controlled by AXBB-E by uccnc. The steppers and spindle are the only things I'll reuse. Build space 700x1500x200mm.
I wanted to build a common machine such that its primary purpose is for plasma cutting but also router & laser usage...perhaps even 3D printer. What would you recommend for a guy who is a complete novice with machines like these as well as electronics?
Great Build. Do you find the Z axis is long enough in the length f travel? Could this build incorporate a pivot to allow for the unit to be used vertical and a paint spray gun installed to paint vertical surfaces? What about attaching other z axis devices such as a plasma cutter? Are there any issues in increasing the distance of travel and size on the X, Y Axis? Finally do you have the 3D printed parts data files? Thanks again
Great build man! I am very interested but for my application I need a larger x axis so is it possible to extend the x axis to 1200mm to accommodate sheet aluminum?
Personally I haven't cut steel with this yet. I do believe it would be able, you'd just have to take your time and slow down the feeds & speeds. Also it would be ideal to have a lubricant mister to cool the cutter head.
I'm curious how the Makita router is working out for you. I presume you're using it at a low speed when you mill aluminum. I'm building a CNC router myself and am going back and forth between using the Dewalt DWP611 and the Makita RT0701C. The thing about the Makita that really gives me pause is the following statement in the manual for it: "If the tool is operated continuously at low speeds for a long time, the motor will get overloaded, resulting in tool malfunction." Have you run into any issues with this?
I've been very satisfied with my Makita router. I do operate it at low speeds. The most I'd go up to is about 1/3rd 'throttle'. It's interesting the manual would state that warning. However, I think I know why. At low speeds, if you were cutting deep passes it would require high torque from the motor, this would put the current draw through the roof so to speak. However in a CNC application like I'm using. Torque demands are kept low with moderate feeds & speeds. My makita has done many hrs of work. I can recommend it thoroughly.
HI Mate, love the video. Quick question regarding maximum thickness of the aluminium you can route with this machine. I have project in the pipeline for a machine that duplicates rifles stocks, but it requires a couple fo plates to be cut from 20mm plate. I assume that the OX is more than capable provided the feed rate on all the axis are slow enough? After that, its a matter of time and how many router bits i want to blunt?
Assuming you're using a 1/4" or 6mm milling bits? the major factor will be how long the flutes are. You can find specialty extended milling bits in 6mm. But 20mm is pushing it. Might have to mill both sides.
I have been interested in CNC work for many years, but not until the past couple of years has the bug really started to bite harder, so I have been looking into getting a machine setup. I have noticed a lot of fancy names with high price tickets, and have shied away from them for one reason or another (mostly price) I have looked at building something from Baltic birch 13ply. but have steered away from that also. A couple of weeks ago, while searching yet again on good ol' Google, I came across OpenBuilds.com and there I found out about the OX machine. Long story short when I found out about the x,y drive system via. the belt I was really beginning to be skeptical until I came across the OX-Metal machine with lead screws. I haven't checked out the price yet, but as for a DIY machine, I think this is the rig to get (providing I can get the size I am looking for with a work area of 610mm x 1220mm). Sure, it may be possible to build something cheaper, but will it last?? By the way, great information, thanks. For a newbie getting into the CNC game, this information helps a lot.
Hi , I'm SHANTANU . Can i ask u about ur design. Because I wanna this . Can u me tell the item required. Cause I don't know anything about the CNC design , but loved ur design , & I think I can make it with ur idea. Plz help me out
So obviously I've been watching a lot of your videos as I'm trying to learn as much as possible so I can build mine correctly and try to avoid any problems in my build. I noticed in this video while doing your test run on the wood and aluminum it was cutting deeper on one side than the other. Was there a reason for this that you know of? I have seen people surface their waste board to make it level to the X and Y axis rails. Do you think maybe this was the case with your test. do you think maybe your waste board wasn't level to the rails?
Well spotted, the reason for that is because my plywood bed wasn't parallel to the milling bit. Solving this is so simple! Just get the CNC machine finished and running then use the CNC mill to machine its own bed flat! Obviously it can't make it all the way to the outer edges, So after I used a sander on the edges where the mill could not reach
Is there a reason you went with the dimensions you did instead of just using the max length of the lead screw as the limiting factor and cutting beams to accomodate? I am new to this and using your design as a basis for my first build but maximizing work area is a concern for me. I have a ton of questions, probably many stupid ones if you would be available for discussion somewhere.
In my opinion this size of OX is a good balance between usable work area while retaining enough stiffness to accurately machine soft metals. Also working to the size of components to minimize waste.
Schematix Being a moving gantry system, what would be the areas weakened by length. I am currently learning some CAD and laying out a version of your machine using c channel rail and the full length of lead screws in the x and y axis. What down sides so you see?
If you wanted something say 1200x1200 and able to machine alloy at a decent speed quite honestly it's a complete redesign and not a simple one. So you'd be on your own there. The mill I built is at a sweet spot for price vs functionality (imo). Something catered towards milling metal at speed is naturally more expensive.
I am interested to assemble same as what you did Sir at Ox-Metal Schematix, I would like to ask or assists me please a list of parts and material needed and complete details of assembling "DIY-CNC Router" with hassle free.. Thank you.. Hoping for the feedback or comments..
I am building the ox metal (same size as in video) and would like to put a spindle on it how big of a spindle do you think it can handle? I would like to go with 1.5 or 2.2 kw or do you think that is to heavy.
+Schematix Wow!! Amazing feed rates! 610 x axis travel, is that cutting area? Would love to be able to cut 24"x24" (610mm x 610mm) sheets. With a little room for clamps. Do you see a problem with making the x axis a little longer? Thanks!
Awesome man! Very cool to see people building these here in NZ! I am curious where you sourced your parts. (I am kiwi too) I am looking into build something similar this year.
Thats awesome to hear! I'm based in the BOP area. I used CNCKITS.co.nz for the V-slot, Ebay for stepper motors & cable chain, Openbuilds part store for pretty much everything else. And Jaycar for the odd switch, wire.etc Using the stores I mentioned was by far the cheapest option considering shipping to NZ.etc
Wicked! Any idea on the overall cost of the build? I have been thinking of using the C-beam mechanical bundle from cnckits, then just buying extra c-beam lengths to get a bigger bed. I would love to be able to do a full sheet of plywood if its not too costly. But I would be happy with a similar size to yours for now.
My mill cost just under $2k NZD to build. While there is absolutely no reason a mill can't be upsized to fit a full sheet of ply, you would have to tread carefully as the extended axises would need much more stiffening to eliminate axises resonating during a cut (especially the X axis)
It's there if I become greedy with regards to feed rates. However that user error not a mechanical flaw. I've worked with GT3 belt on my 3D printer, So I'm familiar with what you are referring to. And the 8mm leadscrew basically has little to no backlash/slack.
tons of money on cnc...left no budget for a 33¢ comb lol ....ya ever notice that crazy smart people always have crazy hair.. just busting balls man...love the vids!
This looks like a really great design compared to everything I've seen so far for a simple home built machine capable of precision work EXCEPT FOR THE 3D PRINTED CRAP! Seriously its like building a car and holding the wheels on with plastic bolts? Its just dumb. No offense to you Schematix just the design. If all those 3d printed parts where aluminum instead of plastic It would probably be the best DIY build I have seen yet.
I am interested to assemble same as what you did Sir at Ox-Metal Schematix, I would like to ask or assists me please a list of parts and material needed and complete details of assembling "DIY-CNC Router" with hassle free.. Thank you.. Hoping for the feedback or comments..
I've built the ox with the belts. It's indeed not very stiff. Also, the x axis flexes quite a bit. I think in that regard the metal version is the same. Ballscrews help of course, but the pom rollers with bolts as axles also have quite a bit of flex. It's ok for wood but only just able to cut aluminium, with very shallow cuts and high spindle speeds which risk half melting the aluminium and clogging up the cutter.
Compressed air nozzle helps a lot for chip evacuation, regulated down to about 2 to 3 bar. Sinle flute cutter helps for roughing out material, though boring smaller holes will clog it up in no time. I like two flutes for that better with either spiral or pecking with partial retracts. If you can avoid slotting, do so. Especially if you cut aal the way through the alu, the bits that come loose may jam the cutter making it fly in all directions (holding torque in a belt system is not strong enough to overcome the forces of the spindle when things spin out of control). I used a 1.5kw chinese spindle, er11, aircooled. It does make beautiful cuts in wood. I'm building a new cnc with the ox with linear rails and ballscrews on all axes. All plates are 20mm aluminium. Controlled by AXBB-E by uccnc. The steppers and spindle are the only things I'll reuse. Build space 700x1500x200mm.
I was going to ask a couple of questions but notice there are no replies to any of the other enquiries
I wanted to build a common machine such that its primary purpose is for plasma cutting but also router & laser usage...perhaps even 3D printer. What would you recommend for a guy who is a complete novice with machines like these as well as electronics?
Great Build. Do you find the Z axis is long enough in the length f travel?
Could this build incorporate a pivot to allow for the unit to be used vertical and a paint spray gun installed to paint vertical surfaces?
What about attaching other z axis devices such as a plasma cutter?
Are there any issues in increasing the distance of travel and size on the X, Y Axis?
Finally do you have the 3D printed parts data files?
Thanks again
Hello sir
Do we have to purchase Spindle and Motor separately or it comes with complete Gantry ? While ordering online
Great build man! I am very interested but for my application I need a larger x axis so is it possible to extend the x axis to 1200mm to accommodate sheet aluminum?
well explained @Mindless :)
Cost?
Thanks for the input guys....very appreciated
Has this question ever been answered?
Again great content! I would like to know if you could cut 3mm steel sheets. Do you this this machine is capable of doing this?
Personally I haven't cut steel with this yet. I do believe it would be able, you'd just have to take your time and slow down the feeds & speeds. Also it would be ideal to have a lubricant mister to cool the cutter head.
What abut attaching a Plasma cutter? You would need to change the wood base plates and design a alternative z mount to allow for swap over tools.
Ferrous metals is what separates the real machines from the toys.
I'm curious how the Makita router is working out for you. I presume you're using it at a low speed when you mill aluminum. I'm building a CNC router myself and am going back and forth between using the Dewalt DWP611 and the Makita RT0701C.
The thing about the Makita that really gives me pause is the following statement in the manual for it: "If the tool is operated continuously at low speeds
for a long time, the motor will get overloaded, resulting in tool malfunction." Have you run into any issues with this?
I've been very satisfied with my Makita router. I do operate it at low speeds. The most I'd go up to is about 1/3rd 'throttle'. It's interesting the manual would state that warning. However, I think I know why. At low speeds, if you were cutting deep passes it would require high torque from the motor, this would put the current draw through the roof so to speak. However in a CNC application like I'm using. Torque demands are kept low with moderate feeds & speeds. My makita has done many hrs of work. I can recommend it thoroughly.
@@Schematix Awesome! thanks for the reply!
HI Mate, love the video. Quick question regarding maximum thickness of the aluminium you can route with this machine. I have project in the pipeline for a machine that duplicates rifles stocks, but it requires a couple fo plates to be cut from 20mm plate. I assume that the OX is more than capable provided the feed rate on all the axis are slow enough? After that, its a matter of time and how many router bits i want to blunt?
Assuming you're using a 1/4" or 6mm milling bits? the major factor will be how long the flutes are. You can find specialty extended milling bits in 6mm. But 20mm is pushing it. Might have to mill both sides.
Ah, i hadn't considered the length of the flutes. I assume that an issue with clearing debris? might need a redesign, 15mm plate should work i think
Hi, thinking of building one myself any further updates to November 2020 please
Steve
where can i find a complete parts list? i'm interested to build it
I believe on thingiverse.com
I have been interested in CNC work for many years, but not until the past couple of years has the bug really started to bite harder, so I have been looking into getting a machine setup. I have noticed a lot of fancy names with high price tickets, and have shied away from them for one reason or another (mostly price) I have looked at building something from Baltic birch 13ply. but have steered away from that also. A couple of weeks ago, while searching yet again on good ol' Google, I came across OpenBuilds.com and there I found out about the OX machine. Long story short when I found out about the x,y drive system via. the belt I was really beginning to be skeptical until I came across the OX-Metal machine with lead screws. I haven't checked out the price yet, but as for a DIY machine, I think this is the rig to get (providing I can get the size I am looking for with a work area of 610mm x 1220mm). Sure, it may be possible to build something cheaper, but will it last?? By the way, great information, thanks. For a newbie getting into the CNC game, this information helps a lot.
Thanks, and no problem. Hope you found my video useful
How are you happy with the 3D Printed Parts? How is the precision?
Once I got my machine dialed in, parts are coming out with very good tolerance. Generally speaking I'm getting 100 micron or better tolerance
Hi , I'm SHANTANU . Can i ask u about ur design. Because I wanna this . Can u me tell the item required. Cause I don't know anything about the CNC design , but loved ur design , & I think I can make it with ur idea. Plz help me out
So obviously I've been watching a lot of your videos as I'm trying to learn as much as possible so I can build mine correctly and try to avoid any problems in my build. I noticed in this video while doing your test run on the wood and aluminum it was cutting deeper on one side than the other. Was there a reason for this that you know of? I have seen people surface their waste board to make it level to the X and Y axis rails. Do you think maybe this was the case with your test. do you think maybe your waste board wasn't level to the rails?
Well spotted, the reason for that is because my plywood bed wasn't parallel to the milling bit. Solving this is so simple! Just get the CNC machine finished and running then use the CNC mill to machine its own bed flat! Obviously it can't make it all the way to the outer edges, So after I used a sander on the edges where the mill could not reach
Is there a reason you went with the dimensions you did instead of just using the max length of the lead screw as the limiting factor and cutting beams to accomodate? I am new to this and using your design as a basis for my first build but maximizing work area is a concern for me. I have a ton of questions, probably many stupid ones if you would be available for discussion somewhere.
In my opinion this size of OX is a good balance between usable work area while retaining enough stiffness to accurately machine soft metals. Also working to the size of components to minimize waste.
Schematix Being a moving gantry system, what would be the areas weakened by length. I
am currently learning some CAD and laying out a version of your machine using c channel rail and the full length of lead screws in the x and y axis. What down sides so you see?
If you wanted something say 1200x1200 and able to machine alloy at a decent speed quite honestly it's a complete redesign and not a simple one. So you'd be on your own there. The mill I built is at a sweet spot for price vs functionality (imo). Something catered towards milling metal at speed is naturally more expensive.
@@Schematix does this still hold true ?
I am interested to assemble same as what you did Sir at Ox-Metal Schematix, I would like to ask or assists me please a list of parts and material needed and complete details of assembling "DIY-CNC Router" with hassle free.. Thank you.. Hoping for the feedback or comments..
I am building the ox metal (same size as in video) and would like to put a spindle on it how big of a spindle do you think it can handle? I would like to go with 1.5 or 2.2 kw or do you think that is to heavy.
Is there a materials list/price list for US?
Really love this build! What type of feed rates and doc are you seeing with cutting aluminum?
+Schematix Wow!! Amazing feed rates! 610 x axis travel, is that cutting area? Would love to be able to cut 24"x24" (610mm x 610mm) sheets. With a little room for clamps. Do you see a problem with making the x axis a little longer? Thanks!
You could extend the x-axis if you so desire. I kept my design fairly compact for rigidity for tighter tolerances when machining alloy.
Excellent teaching skills. Thanks man
Glad you found it helpful :)
I went to your repository and found that the DXF files are missing. Could you include them?
What happened to this kit?
One more comment or more like a question. Do I need a 3D printer or are those parts available through the Open Builds store??
At the moment you have 2 options. 1. Is to print them yourself. 2. Use one of the many online 3D print services and get them shipped to your door.
were do you source the files for the parts to hand to your manufacturing agent
Awesome man! Very cool to see people building these here in NZ! I am curious where you sourced your parts. (I am kiwi too) I am looking into build something similar this year.
Thats awesome to hear! I'm based in the BOP area. I used CNCKITS.co.nz for the V-slot, Ebay for stepper motors & cable chain, Openbuilds part store for pretty much everything else. And Jaycar for the odd switch, wire.etc Using the stores I mentioned was by far the cheapest option considering shipping to NZ.etc
Wicked! Any idea on the overall cost of the build? I have been thinking of using the C-beam mechanical bundle from cnckits, then just buying extra c-beam lengths to get a bigger bed. I would love to be able to do a full sheet of plywood if its not too costly. But I would be happy with a similar size to yours for now.
My mill cost just under $2k NZD to build. While there is absolutely no reason a mill can't be upsized to fit a full sheet of ply, you would have to tread carefully as the extended axises would need much more stiffening to eliminate axises resonating during a cut (especially the X axis)
How bad/good is the hysteresis on these rods compared to belts?
(because by definition (screwing) threats do have hysteresis)
It's there if I become greedy with regards to feed rates. However that user error not a mechanical flaw. I've worked with GT3 belt on my 3D printer, So I'm familiar with what you are referring to. And the 8mm leadscrew basically has little to no backlash/slack.
Great video. Clear explanations.
Thanks very much :)
Great job Mr!!
tons of money on cnc...left no budget for a 33¢ comb lol ....ya ever notice that crazy smart people always have crazy hair.. just busting balls man...love the vids!
Haha thanks man! Is a tad on the mad-scientist style of hair isn't it! ;)
..very nice thank you
Good job! Thanks.
good video thanks
I didn't know you were from NZ, I thought it was England!
Hola buena cnc
Cuanto cuesta como la adquiero
This looks like a really great design compared to everything I've seen so far for a simple home built machine capable of precision work EXCEPT FOR THE 3D PRINTED CRAP! Seriously its like building a car and holding the wheels on with plastic bolts? Its just dumb. No offense to you Schematix just the design. If all those 3d printed parts where aluminum instead of plastic It would probably be the best DIY build I have seen yet.
the only thing that bothers me are the 3d printed parts
obviously you haven't tried many 3d printers
thair nothing wrong with 3d printed part as long you use the right plastic like nylon or petg
Man that's kinda pathetic I see these things going for 600 bucks on ebay for a 1m by 1.5m and they expect us to 3d print our own parts for it.
I am interested to assemble same as what you did Sir at Ox-Metal Schematix, I would like to ask or assists me please a list of parts and material needed and complete details of assembling "DIY-CNC Router" with hassle free.. Thank you.. Hoping for the feedback or comments..