VW Alternator Conversion Wiring Guide
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2010
- VW Alternator Conversion Wiring Help. This is a small guide to help those who don't know or are confused about the wiring in the process of converting you VW Genarator to an Alternator The username that has the whole process of removing the genarator is 6d4vdub Highly recomended if you dont know how to take it apart. Good luck.
Хобби
Thank you for this.Im 18 years old and have a Type 2 and am figuring out this process as i go with my dad.much appreciated.
Thanks man yeah that would be good... Im from aus so I think our wire sizing is different here but Im sure I will get it sorted cheers mate...
I got the Y-connetor from I.P.C vw parts in Torrance CA. You might find it in some in a specialty electronics stores that sell wiring, fuses, switches etc.
the 2nd wire on the + stud on alternator is that going to the coil? I'm trying to simplify my wiring on my buggy.
@The0rkus
I agree with the the extra wire to the starter question, To be honoest i have no idea what the purpose of the extra wire. I just followed the directions on the manual given. If i had to say anything it would be the charging circuit to the battery since the battery cable is touching that wire at the starter.
Hi great video! I was about to start this but a guy I bought my motor from says I can just leave the regulator alone. I'm just confused I guess. I have a 1965 bus, the motor I pulled out had a generator the new motor has an alternator like the one you have. He told me just to hook up a cable to the battery. I just don't want to mess it up. Thanks
where did you get a large enough gauge to connect the two wires with the battert together?
do you eliminate the voltage regulator when you install the new alternator?I am having same problem with my bug 1968 I got new comvertion and I am trying to figure out how to install te wires THANKS GOOD VIDEO
I used some aftermarket alternator some a vw store, i doubt mine was a 75amp i'll find the brand and get back to you. I only used one extra wire which is the one connected from the starter to the alt. The wire thickness is 10 gauge and i got it at an O'reilly parts store. Good luck,
About to do the exact same to my own Type 1, a '73 L Bug.
Currently it's a single port 1500cc engine in there (not the original engine).
Now, what I'm trying to understand is what is the actual purpose of having the wire between the starter motor and the D+ connection?
@dornier2828 Yes, i did eliminate the regulator, since your new alternator has a built in regulator, you don,t need the original, dont toss it away though its worth more than you think, especially is its a Bosch.
i have a good alternator with external regulator . if i wanna change my beetles generator with this alternator am i one cable short if my research is correct? the alternator regulator needs 3 thin wires and a fat one but the generator has one fat and 2 thin so i guess i need one cable more to put the alternator on? thank you
I found the box of the alternator i have, Its a Euromax 23/53amp part# AL82N. As for the Gauge wiring i measured it with a caliper, its about 0.215 inches, or 5.47mm. Good Luck
What are changes needed for main fuse? Your new alternator has more amperage than the old generator, so 30 AMP fuse not need to change? If 30 AMP is in main fuse, why we need to upgrade to higher amp alternator? Most alternator has built in regulator so removing is ok. What if, if new alternator doesn’t have built in regulator? Old regulator is 30 AMP, does it not need to upgrade as well? 80 to 100 AMP alternator in some cases requires to change your cables wire guage (upgrade) as well. First thing I need to know why a old beetle need this upgrade if there is no use of those AMPs?
@timoy007 Yea it worked good but your gonna have to grind a bit off the side of the EMPI (crap) spacer because the accelerator lever hits the spacer and jacks it up if you have the spacer youl notice this, another way to do it is grind a bit off the alternator enough to give space for the carb to work properly with out the EMPI Spacer looks good too but be careful you run the risk of cutting thorugh the alternater messing it up. Im thinking about making a video this to show the differences.
@dornier2828 Yes i eliminated the voltage regulator, the alternator has a built in regulator.
@PsychoWolfVW its a stock 1600 dp the alternator is chinese worked well but has a slight pulley wobble. what year is your engine? i have an AH(74)
The dual port carburetor has a shorter spacer. What you present is single port. Also I found that the barrel nut for the accelerator cable jammed against the spacer on the carb and created a new problem. Luckily I had a barrell nut from my old 74 super beetle, This was shorter on the right side and ran flush with the right side of the accelerator cable connector, and went by the carb spacer with ease. People, there seems to be a forgetting of dual port and single port carbs....
Great video and explanation on the wiring. Awsome job my friend. Thank you.
Hello, there is a way to measure the amperage, however you can't use the standard digital multimeter we all know and love because it will blow the fuse. However, there is a non contact multimeter called a clamp meter. Here is one for an example, Fluke 376 True-rms AC/DC good luck...
@breadcrumb123 I used a Y connector covered in plastic on the Original VW the turn signal wires have them on in the Front. I.P.C. (formerly J-Bugs) has them is you live near the Redondo Beach Area.
is one of the red cables coming from the battery?
We thank you
Do you have a 4 prong voltage regulator? I have a Motorola that was made in the USA. My battery is not getting charged enough and several people told me to replace the voltage regulator. The red light on dash stays on constantly.
what engine is this on? i did a mock up of the one i just bought (chinese) and do not have clearance issues with the fuel pump.
@woodlandcammo27
Hmm let's see i had the Bosch regulator with 4 prongs, before i had any problems i did a alternator swap. Before you buy one i suggest cheking the circuit, and look for a testing procedure that involves testing that regulator individualy, It will say to use a multimeter and measure resistance. and will give you the tolerances. If you can't find it, email motorola and ask them to give you the testing procedures.
Hey I like ur car man..I have a 1979, I get it from my Dad..I would like to do some changes on the body..can I see urs soo I can get ideas.. please
+psychoWolfVW at a 1:54 what are the adapters shown splinting the 3 wires called please and where can I find them online?
Where did you get the y from?? I cant find one to save my life.
What amp alternator did you use? I about to go a 75amp and wondering which wires you have to change to a thicker gauge? The rest all looks pretty straight forward though.
Change the B+ (D+ on the old generator). May have to join this wire upto the one running directly from the battery or the live starter solenoid terminal 30. Could double up the main battery feed wires as 50 amp is the realistic maximum current a 6mm2 wire can handle. This could become apparent with the Transporter when used as a campervan as the Split screen models with the 6v systems had troubles. Extras such as halogen lamps upgrade, spot/driving or fog lamps, modern ICE radio, absorption 3 way fridge and simple car alarm does add up.
where did you get that 2 to 1 connector inside the bug where the voltage regulator went?
Hey Steve,
The Y connector covered in plastic is on the Original VW the turn signal wires have them on in the Front. I.P.C. (formerly J-Bugs) has them is you live near the Redondo Beach Area.
Where do you have th ground connected too?
@FreeYerMindzz This is on a stock 1600 single port engine case. Dont know about the chinese case never seen a chinese case lol. But it sounds like you dont have a clearance problem Lucky you. : )
Hello PsychoWolfVW,
I got a 1972 beetle and have some problems with my alternator wiring.
Before i took the engine out everything did work.
But after installing a new engine with also a alternator it won't charge anymore.
The alternator was rebuild and tested on a bench.
But the indicator light in the car says its not charging, and with my multimeter on the alternator itself it says 12.14 V, that's not enough.
So whats wrong? Is there another fuse in the car?
Will it be something with the small green wire from the indicator light?
Does this wire activate the regulator inside the alternator?
Any ideas? Please help me out!
Thanks
Hello, I was wondering if you figured out your issue. I too have the same problem and am completely lost, I have checked everything, in the process I have all my electrical problems fixed besides the charging issue. Help?
THAT WAS GOOD SHIT.. DO YOU ACTUALLY NEED TO PUT GROUND STRAP ON ALTERNATOR?
That Alternator Pulley & Nut in Chrome is that any good allot of people say they unscrew them sel!
Self
did it work ok?
thanks
So I think it's great that you made this to try and help people, and I am not trying to be mean, but when you are instructing folks on a process with several steps and components involved, it's fairly important that you have your terminology correct.
By two minutes into the video, you had referred to the an alternator, a generator, and a voltage regulator all as an alternator. for someone who doesn't know the difference, this would be very confusing and I can just see them trying to purchase the parts they need at the auto supply and getting nowhere because they don't know what anything is actually called.
Hey Courier11sec,
Although I agree completely with your statement. When I first made this video (like 4 years ago) I wasn't primarily concerned with terminology, Shaky video, quality etc. At the time there was no video or other guides that helped me when I first made this conversion. So to save everyone else some time, and relieve some headaches and frustrations, I made a quick and dirty video of the conversion so they wouldn't be as stressed out about as i was. Now there are more videos and help on the conversion which is good, and if not You, me, or anyone else can easily make another video with subtitles, terminology, step by step scenes, with cool transitions, etc, its just a matter if the person wants to do it to help everyone else like I did years back.
Cheers!
@@PsychoWolfVWThe internet is full of armchair experts and critics. If they already know it all they would have made the World's best videos about everything already but guess what?
They haven't and they never will😂
No, one cable goes to the Y Connector and the other one is connected to the starter cable stud that also has a cable that goes to the Battery, (in the video you will see it (4:13) sorry the delay.
1. GREEN splice to BLUE *check*
2. B+ splice to 1st RED (battery) and 2nd RED (dash/front/fuse) *check*
Question:
3. the 2nd RED wire connected to the dash/front/fuse can be left as it is in the front, yes? It doesnt need to be swapped to another place other where it orignally was? (converting from gen to alt)
Many thanks, love the cursing btw!
Hey BossBrakskit,
From what i am aware of, you need to have all three red B+, 1st and 2nd Red Spliced together for the Alt to work properly, The one i believe is optional is the wire from the starter stud, to the Alternator. Other than that everything is left to its original place, you can always mark them before you remove in case you wanna go back.
Cheers!
Did you make comment " if you dont have a ground i guess its ok"
shitI forgot to grownd the alt...