I love how you constantly talk reliability. So many people get gung-ho about horsepower they forget about supporting mods. And that goes for any platform. You can’t enjoy it if you can’t drive it.
I really love this set up. You even got a super clean engine bay. I daily my sti that keeping it clean is really hard haha. Ill probably need to re powder coat my manifold and perrin dress up. Im at 124k on my 2015 and still drives the same and been on full bolt ons for 80k now and nothing has happened just gotta keep the engine oil happy and have a good tune!
Thanks for the review. I think relatability is one of your strong points. Definitely helped me re-evaluate, take in a reality check, and realize where I wanted to be with my car.
The key of reliability, is simple, to be consistent on proper maintenance, and know when not to recklessly beat the hell out of the car, even if its fully built, to rephrase that, its not about to beat it up, is to know when and how to do it, and to take a good care of it, you see this most of the times with nowadays youngsters, I already went thru that phase of my life lol
I've been considering the dual ball bearing stock location turbos offered from Precision Turbo for my '05 build. If the numbers are correct, PT claims the 55mm BB is capable of 555hp, while the 58mm BB can flow enough to support 630hp, all for under 2000$. Not a bad deal, in my opinion.
I understand your philosophy, and appreciate the info learned / shared from it. Are you planning on doing a FMIC? If so, would you still be able to run the white front support bar with it? asking for a friend :)
Glad to help! I almost went to a FMIC when I just did the turbo and EWG. Although, decided against it as I wanted to see how the TMIC would do for a very OEM+ like setup. Plus, I really wanted to keep the streetability in check and didn't want to introduce any turbo lag. Keeping the boost spooling early was important as that is what makes it easier and more fun to drive everyday. The lwrclassgarage full front chassis brace will not fit with a FMIC. However, they offer a 'half brace" which does fit with FMIC's.
What kind of flooring is in your garage? Where does the water drain and how do you keep dirt and grime from accumulating under what appears to be grating on the floor panels? BTW, your wife must be very patient with you and your hobby. My wife is learning that if she gives me my garage and car time I am a very happy husband. Thank you in advance for the flooring details.
ruclips.net/video/5Ehpsxmy8tk/видео.html There are channels under the tiles that allow the water to run through and out into the driveway. My garage slab is properly pitched so it runs right out. Any residual dries up by night time. As for any dirt that falls through, I vacuum every few months. Just like I would without the Swisstrax. The nice part about it is the garage floor always looks clean. My wife has known me a very long time, so she was aware of my hobby and obsession from a young age haha. She is very understanding and I am forever grateful for that.
It only gets very loud when you are on it. Normal start up and cruising is the same volume as it was prior. But at WOT, it makes your ears bleed in a good way haha
Rotated is for clout chasers under 700. You can get to that level on stock location no problem. I’m not spending 5k for a downpipe to make the same power on my FP black😴
To be honest, this is one of the cleanest STi I ever seen, I totally agreed with you on the reason of not going rotated. I used to have my 15 STi stage 2 dyno tuned, cobb sf intake, full turbo back, r400 and grimmspeed downpipe limited divorced, with perrin inlet, did 302whp on stock vf48, super fun to drive it as my weekend ride. So, After about 50k miles I decided to stop my car and started to work on the rotated turbo street setup, and the only reason im doing it is because im upgrading to a fully built closed deck block and heads. It takes time, lots of cash, im making sure to do it as reliable as possible. Im trying not to go beyong 600whp
I very much appreciate that. And yes, you are doing it right. You ran your previous setup for quite some time, so moving to rotated is definitely a good next step for your application.
@@Scoobyfreak86 oh yes i'll let you know about the progress, I added you on instagram, not a big social media person but always follow some car enthusiast stuff.
@@nexus5033make sure when you go to the big maf intake tube to have your tuner rescale the load scaling in your timing fuel and maf scaling curv. The 3” minimum for a 10cm 20g sized turbo. Or the dom 1.5 run the 3” cuz you will max out the 2.4” maf and your tuner will hate you for that one little small tube that ended the tuning session short. With my 2.5l 100mm big bore sti with tdo6 20g 8cm exhaust housing, I run 4.9 volts on my 3” Perrin maf tube. After the maf maxes out the ecm can no longer compensate for any load or fuel calculations so yes bigger turbo get the 3” maf tube for this turbo you will need it .
@@nexus5033 if you have a 2.5 and already have the 3” maf then I’d go tdo6 20g 8 cm housing. It’s the perfect turbo for the 2.5 if you have a 2 liter I’d look into the td05 20g 7cm the tdo5 20g 8cm won’t get you the results that your wanting but for a stock replacement on a 2.5 it would be better than the vf39 but you will have to externally gate it to benifite from the small housing. Thus the tdo6 20g 8cm yields me 400 wheel torque and 400 hp with peak spool happening at 3800 rpm the.vf39 on my motor spools at 3,200 and is out of steam by 4k so for me the logical choice was tdo6 8cm housing and there is also a 9cm and 10cm housing for future if you need but I’m guessing you want a street machine that’s why I suggest the 8cm housing so it’s fun to drive
@@Scoobyfreak86 my brz passes catless here in CT. It's all in the tune tho. What's the whole cobb thing going on I can definitely see it being hard to pass with a calesst set up unless it was possible to make a rotated with some type of cat
@@Scoobyfreak86 I know this is an old comment, however I'm only posting for edification purposes for any one just jumping in. You can still get a rotated setup to pass emissions by welding in a GESI cat, and making sure the secondary air pump is not removed.
Devin nimela had a rotated kit on a stock block on his girls sti and drove it for a fat minute before it blew and thats cause he took it to the drap stip
@@gtlyearsley_84 definently not oil changes were always before time and I drive my 1994 corolla harder than I do the sti all the time so this was really a surprise I know these engine are soft but not this soft
I love how you constantly talk reliability. So many people get gung-ho about horsepower they forget about supporting mods. And that goes for any platform. You can’t enjoy it if you can’t drive it.
This is the way.
I really love this set up. You even got a super clean engine bay. I daily my sti that keeping it clean is really hard haha. Ill probably need to re powder coat my manifold and perrin dress up. Im at 124k on my 2015 and still drives the same and been on full bolt ons for 80k now and nothing has happened just gotta keep the engine oil happy and have a good tune!
Thanks for the review. I think relatability is one of your strong points. Definitely helped me re-evaluate, take in a reality check, and realize where I wanted to be with my car.
I love how you always preach reliability. Also love your setup and choices. I would get a Porsche before I spend to build a motor and go rotated.
The key of reliability, is simple, to be consistent on proper maintenance, and know when not to recklessly beat the hell out of the car, even if its fully built, to rephrase that, its not about to beat it up, is to know when and how to do it, and to take a good care of it, you see this most of the times with nowadays youngsters, I already went thru that phase of my life lol
I've been considering the dual ball bearing stock location turbos offered from Precision Turbo for my '05 build. If the numbers are correct, PT claims the 55mm BB is capable of 555hp, while the 58mm BB can flow enough to support 630hp, all for under 2000$. Not a bad deal, in my opinion.
I understand your philosophy, and appreciate the info learned / shared from it.
Are you planning on doing a FMIC? If so, would you still be able to run the white front support bar with it? asking for a friend :)
Glad to help! I almost went to a FMIC when I just did the turbo and EWG. Although, decided against it as I wanted to see how the TMIC would do for a very OEM+ like setup. Plus, I really wanted to keep the streetability in check and didn't want to introduce any turbo lag. Keeping the boost spooling early was important as that is what makes it easier and more fun to drive everyday.
The lwrclassgarage full front chassis brace will not fit with a FMIC. However, they offer a 'half brace" which does fit with FMIC's.
@@Scoobyfreak86 sweet, good to know!
413 whp almost 450 or more to the motor … good power
you should get a black coolant expansion tank from misomoto! it would look sooooo clean. love your videos!!
Great video bro super watchable! Big hp numbers are for those on their hard drive not drive hard 🎉❤
What kind of flooring is in your garage? Where does the water drain and how do you keep dirt and grime from accumulating under what appears to be grating on the floor panels? BTW, your wife must be very patient with you and your hobby. My wife is learning that if she gives me my garage and car time I am a very happy husband. Thank you in advance for the flooring details.
ruclips.net/video/5Ehpsxmy8tk/видео.html
There are channels under the tiles that allow the water to run through and out into the driveway. My garage slab is properly pitched so it runs right out. Any residual dries up by night time.
As for any dirt that falls through, I vacuum every few months. Just like I would without the Swisstrax. The nice part about it is the garage floor always looks clean.
My wife has known me a very long time, so she was aware of my hobby and obsession from a young age haha. She is very understanding and I am forever grateful for that.
In terms of daily driving, how much louder did it get when you went to EWG + turbo? Just wondering because my neighbors may not like it.
It only gets very loud when you are on it. Normal start up and cruising is the same volume as it was prior. But at WOT, it makes your ears bleed in a good way haha
Tell your neighbors if they don’t like it they can move. Can stop what you want to do for neighbors.
@@Redfeather80 It’s just basic courtesy. I’m sure you would hate to hear your neighbors blasting music you hate every day.
another relaxing video, may i ask what the spray u used after the wash?
Thanks! P&S Beadmaker. I use it after every wash. Link is in the description below under "Car Stuff".
Rotated is for clout chasers under 700. You can get to that level on stock location no problem. I’m not spending 5k for a downpipe to make the same power on my FP black😴
OEM plus my brother but i will stay more OEM plus Im staying UEL but love ur build
To be honest, this is one of the cleanest STi I ever seen, I totally agreed with you on the reason of not going rotated. I used to have my 15 STi stage 2 dyno tuned, cobb sf intake, full turbo back, r400 and grimmspeed downpipe limited divorced, with perrin inlet, did 302whp on stock vf48, super fun to drive it as my weekend ride. So, After about 50k miles I decided to stop my car and started to work on the rotated turbo street setup, and the only reason im doing it is because im upgrading to a fully built closed deck block and heads. It takes time, lots of cash, im making sure to do it as reliable as possible. Im trying not to go beyong 600whp
I very much appreciate that. And yes, you are doing it right. You ran your previous setup for quite some time, so moving to rotated is definitely a good next step for your application.
@@Scoobyfreak86 oh yes i'll let you know about the progress, I added you on instagram, not a big social media person but always follow some car enthusiast stuff.
up next is cobb front mount 😌😈
im a big fan of this subie
Very nice and clean.
18 psi should be good for awhile!!!
Hey, are there any e-tuners you recommend?
Bren tuning
@@Scoobyfreak86 thanks!
was this the 10cm hotside or 8cm hotside? and 2.4 inlet or 3?
10 and 3
@@Scoobyfreak86 was looking at putting the 10cm 2.4 in my car to replace my vf48 in my 06 STi, any other 2.4in recommendations?
@@nexus5033make sure when you go to the big maf intake tube to have your tuner rescale the load scaling in your timing fuel and maf scaling curv. The 3” minimum for a 10cm 20g sized turbo. Or the dom 1.5 run the 3” cuz you will max out the 2.4” maf and your tuner will hate you for that one little small tube that ended the tuning session short. With my 2.5l 100mm big bore sti with tdo6 20g 8cm exhaust housing, I run 4.9 volts on my 3” Perrin maf tube. After the maf maxes out the ecm can no longer compensate for any load or fuel calculations so yes bigger turbo get the 3” maf tube for this turbo you will need it .
@@HeidiFegles im already big intake, i was asking about hot side size on turbo haha
@@nexus5033 if you have a 2.5 and already have the 3” maf then I’d go tdo6 20g 8 cm housing. It’s the perfect turbo for the 2.5 if you have a 2 liter I’d look into the td05 20g 7cm the
tdo5 20g 8cm won’t get you the results that your wanting but for a stock replacement on a 2.5 it would be better than the vf39 but you will have to externally gate it to benifite from the small housing. Thus the tdo6 20g 8cm yields me 400 wheel torque and 400 hp with peak spool happening at 3800 rpm the.vf39 on my motor spools at 3,200 and is out of steam by 4k so for me the logical choice was tdo6 8cm housing and there is also a 9cm and 10cm housing for future if you need but I’m guessing you want a street machine that’s why I suggest the 8cm housing so it’s fun to drive
Front lip and side skirts link pls ?
ruclips.net/video/wMBfWMr0B3g/видео.html
will a rotated set up pass emissions?
It will not due to removing the cats.
@@Scoobyfreak86 my brz passes catless here in CT. It's all in the tune tho. What's the whole cobb thing going on I can definitely see it being hard to pass with a calesst set up unless it was possible to make a rotated with some type of cat
@@Scoobyfreak86
I know this is an old comment, however I'm only posting for edification purposes for any one just jumping in.
You can still get a rotated setup to pass emissions by welding in a GESI cat, and making sure the secondary air pump is not removed.
I told you everything will come out from your towels (:
You're not by any chance Hes Kicks are you? 😁 you guys sound and talk the same. ✌
Pollen... always annoying especially here in florida. Wash and Wax and Polish..... 2 hours later... Pollen... lol
I have a 2021 STI where do you do your tunes
R/T Tuning
@@Scoobyfreak86 thank you
Devin nimela had a rotated kit on a stock block on his girls sti and drove it for a fat minute before it blew and thats cause he took it to the drap stip
Just lost my motor on my 2016 with only 20k
Sorry to hear brother. Stock? Or were you modified?
@@Scoobyfreak86 bolt on,s and a tune and I think we running the same turbo
Dang! Did you drive it like you stole it every time you drove it?
@@gtlyearsley_84 definently not oil changes were always before time and I drive my 1994 corolla harder than I do the sti all the time so this was really a surprise I know these engine are soft but not this soft
Second 😅
First😁