@@zmmmzmmmzcyl 4 cooling mod, IAG air oil separator, Aem 340lph fuel pump, killer bee or IAG oil pickup, 1050x injectors I’m making 356 right now and daily it
@@zmmmzmmmz You should do mods and tune it around 60hp more. Unless you build the engine, I wouldn't recommend pushing your engine to 500whp. You'll blow it up.
@@JoseMartinez-gy9eoif you do more research on those ra blocks they really only changed the wrist pin structure on the piston it’s slightly stronger but from my understanding not by a lot.
Exactly what my brother told me when I first started modding my car ever since then I never complain when he says I need certain parts to have it run better 🤌🏼😂
That is one very clean engine bay. Your parts selection is superb and almost exactly what I would do outside of California. I had my 2015 STI Launch on a a "maxed out stock turbo" build with the KillerB headers, ported VF48 and Grimmspeed DP and it was great street fun until recently.
Oh yes it gets expensive pretty fast...my 15 STi still on a build process, rotatated turbo setup, built block (including heads), fueling, clutch, coilovers, etc. And I can tell I'm around 35k, maybe 40k+ by now...its been little over 2 years since the project started, I did few stuff myself and still a lots of $$$ involved, hopefully by march or april it'll hit the road...600whp+
I like your videos man! I own an evo and dont have sti but for some reason , when I watch your content, it educates me! And me wanting to buy sti. Keep up man!
my god that is such a beautiful car!! I just got my hands on an 04 STi with 87k miles on the original engine. I just changed out the spark plugs and timing belt, lol!! I've got a hell of a long way to go, lol I love your videos, and learn a lot from them. Thank you for posting!
This makes me miss my '17 STI. Great looking engine bay and great job all around. I've also read somewhere that ELH improve reliability significantly as well raise the power ceiling moreso than other mods. Great job building reliable power.
always interesting to see/hear that you're tuned at 18 psi. it was always a given that "stage2" or more was always 20-21psi but clearly your tuner is making power without the added boost. Solid setup though probably the best overall
"Stage 2" is mostly the boost levels that bump the power. Easy to throw boost at a car and make it quicker, but doing it correctly with the right parts, you'll find that you won't need to add so much boost to obtain the power you are after. Quality parts go a long way.
@@Autofreakgarage Found that out first hand on my last WRX[FA20 car] on E60 it was pushing 1lb more target from pump gas and went from 300ish WHP to 385 with purely timing adjustments. Crazy stuff I'm currently on the "risky" setup of an intake/downpipe/regulator/pump on a VERY mild Etune while waiting to go injectors/rails/headers and its pretty impressive how much power picked up despite being a dialed back setup
I know you have sold the car already, but I’m looking to get into the STI family. I bought a ‘19 and I’ll be honest I was skeptical when I bought it but driving it (modestly) it’s the coolest car !!!! I’ve heard horror stories about these engines blowing up and having head gasket issues etc etc. I do wanna build it though and have a all around car kinda like yours is just a little more power. Any insight you can give me?
I had a FBO 2017 sti on E85, it put down 380whp on a dynojet, it had ELH, External WG, FMIC, IAG oil separator, all premium parts etc, the car felt fine but i was coming from a 475whp 02 Wrx with a built hybrid engine on a fp green turbo e85 and a much lighter car with a 07sti transmission swap, my goal was to build the sti to 600whp one day till i drove my friend's R35 Gtr, and it was a wrap, sold the STI and got me an R35, and to be honest it was the best decision , 630whp on E85 without any worries , I've daily the car for about 5 years and abuse it all the time, i got the R35 for 65k back in 2018 and i put about 10k in fbo parts to hit 630whp, who knows how many engine builds i would've gone through if i kept the STI, i had the wrx for 11 years and even though i loved that car i did blow the engine 3 times, and the 5spd transmission twice, till i went with the 07 sti swap, Subarus are fun to drive but they're not reliable if you drive them hard.
Great insight. This is why I'm considering an rs3 as a daily. I can get the same (if not higher) hp numbers as scoobyfreak with a stage 1 ecu reflash, and a block that can hold 700whp/550ish torque. Owning Subarus is certainly a labor of love. Theres nothing quite like them. But it gets tedious after a while.
Safety first 🚀 My girlfriend 2016 sti had a koyorad, cyl 4 cooling mod and a AOS before it had an accessport. I do have a killer b oil pick up and tray in stock for it, but im waiting to pick up a oil pan. A lot of safety for a cobb stage 1+ car😅
Thanks for this video Chris! 400 wheel is my goal with my '21 STI. Barely at stage1+ and the car is tons of fun already. if you don't mind me asking, how much would you say of the 22k was labor? Just curious is all, ideally I'd want to do most of the work myself to save some money! Cheers!
@@Autofreakgarage not too bad at all for those power levels. My buddy recently took his Mercedes to the shop and he paid more in labor than the parts themselves!
Im curious what you think about the vb wrx. Basic bolt ons and a tune will get you around the 400lbft mark. The FA24 engine block seems very robust. Some people are pushing it really hard with the limiting factor being fueling. Its certainly no sti (nothing can touch the sti drivetrain), but it sure as heck seems cheaper to mod.
Dang, I made the same 400whp on 93 octane, but half the cost.. right around $10k including forged pistons. But that was 2018 when it cost less and before the new EPA issues. I feel like now it would cost me around 15.
@@anthonym2277 Yes that's how much it costs to machine a motor, put it back together with forged parts, and put a bigger turbo on it with all the supportive mods, then tune it correctly on a dyno. 6 years built and reliable.
here's my build so far for my 04 sit. (the piston rings died) gs ebcs, (deciding on the turbo, I'm thinking of something flowing 55-65lb/min w a 3in intake) 1500cc dw injectors front mount intercooler 19mm phenolic spacers forged internal w/ +2mm rods street lite flywheel and heavy duty clutch stock heads (Can't find a place near me to rebuild mine) iwire hybrid maf speed density kit 4 bar map sensor uel headers catless downpipe deciding on what up pipe to get depending on if it the turbo I get is ewg plan on getting an aem340 pump and hardwire kit stock oil pan (plan on getting just a baffle and pick up tube) koyorad radiator 625 arp head studs oem 11mm oil pump crank dampener dual catch cans anything else I should decide on? im going open source btw, tractrix cable is handy
I understand the OEM+ factor of the build which is great btw but why not a FMIC vs the top mount you currently have? is it because you’re not pushing enough power or you’re not on the car as much? as heat in the engine bay would be decreased if you went front mount but I’m just curious! Thanks!
8 or 10 cm on the turbo housing? 8 gets better spool i guess and 10 has better top end. which would you recommend, im thinking 8 for me but want to get your thoughts
BTW, the fa24 pushes impressive numbers with just a basic tune. I loved my old ej's as well but reliability and power have definitely been improved. Right now I'm using a Jb4 and running e30. Haven't dynoed my car yet but others with similar mods are making good power. Of course Cobb is the way to go vs jb4 but at only 2000 miles on my new car I'm not ready to flash the ecu but the jb4 is very satisfying for what it is.....
Kindly asking because I'm building a Perrin Catalog (Semi) build of WRX STI VA. And I'm changing my TMIC to FMIC is it alright? Because I already bought one hahahaha what would be the pro's and con's using FMIC? I'm planning to go stock block until 400whp can it withold it? My current build is: - Stock block - Invidia r400 - Injen CAI -> changing it to Perrin CAI - Tomei UEL - Cobb AP (When I bought the car it's already included but will remove this and go to ECUTEK tune.) - Torque Cylinder 4 - Crawford AOS Upcoming parts: - Perrin FMIC - HKS Oil cooler - Power Steering cooler (Planning to get one too) In the future: - Forged Internals - Bigger Turbo (Maybe afterwards) If you can give more more details would be great. Thank you.
I feel like 22k Is a lot for 400whp, considering you have a top mount etc.. I cant recall if you said in your video or not, but there are def cheaper routes to get that much power safely, and yes on pump gas. For 22k, you could have a 500x block from Bader, and a Green, plus cooling and fuel for less. While I think your build is gorgeous and an example of how to do things in a very tasteful way, to me it seems that you chose expensive parts on purpose, for just the sake of spending the cash, and thats fine. Its a beautiful build, thats for sure.
Oh yeah man, Definitely. These motors can be pretty risky when done up and or tuned incorrectly with the right Combinations and the perfect tune, you can push more power especially with E85
I love how you did your car the first time. I'm going for the same thing with mine. Don't get me wrong I love Devin and Baders channels but they push them stock motors way to far. Everytime they turn around they are blowing them up. Sets a bad example for people who don't have their knowledge on tearing down engines and rebuilding them. Also it's a complete waste of money whether you can afford to like them or not. That Remmy kid on their channel is even worse. He just a spoiled rich kid.
Devins and Baders channel is literally meant to push the motors limits and also they beat the shit out of them because they know they can rebuild it themselves and also serves as content.Devin has cleared this up many tines how he enjoys beating on them because knows he can just fix it have you seen his videos he has rebuilt a full motor in 2 days that man is a god with subarus
You have to remember that devin enjoys what he does just like everyone else with what they do. I wouldn’t really try to compare when two channels do two different things. Devin also just likes to push the boundaries, he’s got the money to do it
People get way too tied up on numbers nowadays nobody actually goes out and DRIVES. Yes my stage 3 stil makes "only" 350hp...But i'm absolutely demolishing everything else in the canyons/mountains and having the time of my life doing it. I've been at stage 3 for a few years now on my 18 sti (28k miles) After the killer b kit upgrade and a radiator I think im ready for some bws goodness.
And this is why bmws and the American v8s are more relevant now. Coyotes making 900+whp with just boost and fuel mods on e85. Bmws 335's making 500whp with boltons and a tune. Well said. Great looking sti man.
@@OneslowS4Golf R makes 400whp fairly easy. Subaru's new FA24 is fairly decent. Ford's Ecoboost are pretty slept on too. I've seen Explorer STs with 700+ whp.
Coming from only FA experience, this is cool to see. Obviously the EJ starts with a pretty big head start, but it doesn't take much to get the FA in that 350 whp range where the STi also sat pre-turbo (as long as you're fine with taking trans risks).
Fa is a great platform that doesn’t take much to get power. It’s just a new FI motor where the ej is a dinosaur in comparison. Although, I will say the same power level in an fa and ej do feel quiet different overall.
Could you go over the headers. I been looking into killer b elh. But there's so many options. What's the difference between 2 or 3 bolts? Can you run the header with the stock up pipe? Or recommended to get the whole set up? When is it recommended to go external wastegate?
You'll want to go with 2 bolt if you are running a stock like setup. 3 bolt is usually pertaining to more custom setups. Yes, you can run them with stock up pipe. I ran them this way for a while before I went to EWG and changed the turbo. I would recommend doing EWG either way. It's safer overall as it allows your tuner to fine tune your map and eliminates the potential of boost creep (most associated with catless setups). For the average joe's like us that just want a good quality header on a stock like setup, the 2 bolt basic killer b head is what you want to go with.
You had said you went stage 1, 1+ then 3 how much did you spend to get it to stage 3 with the reliability mods. And what if you did that all at once? Thanks. Ps sick sti yo
I just realised something…did you keep all of the emissions items on your sti? Did you not do tgv deletes or the secondary air pump delete? You kept all your emissions stuff intact? Because I want to go cobb but I know they have a green speed update which doesn’t allow emissions related stuff to be deleted anymore. Debating on going open source
You can get 350 hp in an sti for a reasonable price with work, but a 350hp Subaru is a blast to drive I don’t care who you are. And probably go faster due to lesswheel spin and relying on driving skill instead
I’m looking to either build my motor, buy an iag block or get an Ra block and throw rods in it because I want 500whp in my 05 sti. I think I might just get a bcp x500r and flex fuel setup and all supporting mods including oiling etc and make 380-400whp until I figure it out. Can I make 500whp on a good tmic?
Do you think the older the car the harder the power? I have a 2000 Impreza wagon and I’m thinking about just taking the engine out to put a 2.5 in it. I would use the engine I have already with 75k miles buts it’s a 2.2l. My goal is to make 400-450
May i ask what product and process you use to maintain the black plastics in the front and back bumper? Im not sure which one from the list of products in the description. Thanks
Are there any issues with passing inspection? I'm in NY and I know back in the day if you had anything that was OB2 or newer (basically 1996 and up), ECUs needed to be plugged into to pass inspection. I understand the Cobb AP is just reflashing the ECU, but would the car run on a stock tune? Even if just for a few minutes to pass inspection? IDK what is required of your inspections in NJ, but just curious if you have run into any hiccups...thanks!
I've had 4 imprezas, but I think I'm done with ICE cars now. My experience included having them maintained by specialists while in the UK and in Australia. I had Zen Performance look after my 22B while in the UK, and then Pulse in Sydney. The reason I chose these companies was because of their experience in Time Attack. That said, the costs to properly maintain a car are not cheap. I'm much more inclined these days to run a Tesla model 3 performance, and cant wait for the upcoming highland version, which I understand will be "Ludicrous", with possible 670-680 bhp, and no transmission issues. It will be reliable, and the model has had some great upgrades into highland spec. Really cant wait to upgrade. As for this, I think time has passed these cars by.
That’s exactly what I wanted and got from the Blouch 1.5. Spoiled about 200-300 rpm’s sooner and held on up top where the stock turbo died off after 5200.
I made about 325 whp and 340 tq on 91, with intake, Inlet, tmic, bpv, ebcs, dp, fpr, fuel pump, catback. Along with typical reliability mods. Currently doing a elh (coated holy header), 1050 injectors, rails, lines, and flex fuel kit. I’m aiming for about 350whp 360-380tq . I got my 21 sti new, so cost of car, cosmetics, wheels and reliability mods, tuning I’m about 85k into.
I have a 2017 STI. I want to take things slow as well. In your experience would I be able to go stage 1+ (accessport/intake) without any reliability mods? Or should I get the accessport / Intake and get the cylinder 4, aos immediately with it?
I would definitely go ahead and do the aos and cyl 4 mod either way. Even if you are stock as they are two things that will greatly benefit the longevity and health of the motor.
What stage wouldan iag closed deck block, fp black turbo, injector dynamics 1700cc, double fuel pumps, hobbs switch, cobb flex fuel, ets front mount all titanium piping, 600hp. What stage would that be considered?
I have a 2016 STI with a perrin intake, cobb catted turboback and the full fuel system from cobb. I was dyno tuned at Boostin Performance and I only made 276 wheel hp on a mustang dyno. That seems rlly low no? also my DAM is at 0.000 now and the knock has been crazy, i took my car back 3 times and they never could "find any problems". Car runs like shit and isnt making boost anymore. Im taking the car to a new tuner this week hoping to get this figured out. Any ideas?? Im about to just sell the car at this point.
There is definitely something going on. Can’t really diagnose what may be the issue on here since you would really need to do some digging to see what’s going on.
So I’m getting killer b headers with v band and up pip, any reason why you went with your particular up pip and dump tube vs the killer b? Also noticed the killer b doesn’t come with dump tube is that a bad thing?
Y’all seem smarter than scientists fr fr. I been trying to learn cars for 5 years. I still don’t know shit. How does one know if they can build on a stock motor or if they need a new motor to support the HP. You will say, we’ll if you reach over a certain HP your stock engine can’t handle it. But HOW does one just know that?? How do y’all know that when adding certain parts, now it needs tuned. I don’t get it man.
Question bec i wanna do this setup but dont no if i should go higher boost bec i wanna hear the turbo spooling at low rpms do this happen to you currently ?
Reliable is the issue. I've got a built 400+ STI, downtuned to 22 psi, 45,000 miles on the built motor, no issues. Lasting fun factor.
What would you recommend for a stock 2019 sti? 350-400 range, practically a daily but low annual miles, hoping to get another ten years / 150k miles
@@zmmmzmmmzcyl 4 cooling mod, IAG air oil separator, Aem 340lph fuel pump, killer bee or IAG oil pickup, 1050x injectors I’m making 356 right now and daily it
@@zmmmzmmmz2019+ sti came with the type RA motor which most people say can handle 500whp pretty reliably
@@zmmmzmmmz You should do mods and tune it around 60hp more. Unless you build the engine, I wouldn't recommend pushing your engine to 500whp. You'll blow it up.
@@JoseMartinez-gy9eoif you do more research on those ra blocks they really only changed the wrist pin structure on the piston it’s slightly stronger but from my understanding not by a lot.
You have to pay to play. Don’t skimp, do it right, and get a good tune. Thanks for your help over the years.
Exactly what my brother told me when I first started modding my car ever since then I never complain when he says I need certain parts to have it run better 🤌🏼😂
That is one very clean engine bay. Your parts selection is superb and almost exactly what I would do outside of California. I had my 2015 STI Launch on a a "maxed out stock turbo" build with the KillerB headers, ported VF48 and Grimmspeed DP and it was great street fun until recently.
AWESOME BUILD!!!
My 18STI is at 409HP & 398TQ 18psi on 91gas
Only difference is FP Green Turbo & FMIC.
91 gas? It's gonna go BOOM lol
@@thedon9670? No it’s not lmao. 91 is just west coast 93
@@MillionDollarDreamno it’s not 😂, that’s crazy high hp for these motors on 91 unless he has forged pistons. 350-360 is the safe cutoff for 91.
Oh yes it gets expensive pretty fast...my 15 STi still on a build process, rotatated turbo setup, built block (including heads), fueling, clutch, coilovers, etc. And I can tell I'm around 35k, maybe 40k+ by now...its been little over 2 years since the project started, I did few stuff myself and still a lots of $$$ involved, hopefully by march or april it'll hit the road...600whp+
I like your videos man! I own an evo and dont have sti but for some reason , when I watch your content, it educates me! And me wanting to buy sti. Keep up man!
I appreciate it! Thanks for watching and glad I can help.
my god that is such a beautiful car!!
I just got my hands on an 04 STi with 87k miles on the original engine.
I just changed out the spark plugs and timing belt, lol!!
I've got a hell of a long way to go, lol
I love your videos, and learn a lot from them. Thank you for posting!
Its hard not watching these video's. Got a 21 sti but really would like to pay it off before anything lol
This is literally the perfect mod list to get the most out of your ej Subaru. And the fact that it’s still on 93 octane is nice
yes well done thank you for your choice = i swapped my sf5 with a ej207 RA STI block - 8,200 rpm sleeper with great power ! SUBARU .
I sold my 300 whp 15 wrx and bought an 20 sti. Can’t wait to mod it
This makes me miss my '17 STI. Great looking engine bay and great job all around. I've also read somewhere that ELH improve reliability significantly as well raise the power ceiling moreso than other mods. Great job building reliable power.
because equal length headers allow for equal cylinder pressure
but then it no longer is a Subaru :(@@15subarusti59
always interesting to see/hear that you're tuned at 18 psi. it was always a given that "stage2" or more was always 20-21psi but clearly your tuner is making power without the added boost. Solid setup though probably the best overall
"Stage 2" is mostly the boost levels that bump the power. Easy to throw boost at a car and make it quicker, but doing it correctly with the right parts, you'll find that you won't need to add so much boost to obtain the power you are after. Quality parts go a long way.
@@Autofreakgarage Found that out first hand on my last WRX[FA20 car] on E60 it was pushing 1lb more target from pump gas and went from 300ish WHP to 385 with purely timing adjustments. Crazy stuff
I'm currently on the "risky" setup of an intake/downpipe/regulator/pump on a VERY mild Etune while waiting to go injectors/rails/headers and its pretty impressive how much power picked up despite being a dialed back setup
Amen brotha. Safe and reliable. I’m following in your footsteps
Great video bro I just bought my 2018 sti last year in April I’m starting my tuning process now to push a safe 520-550 hp to the wheels
lol
So, Is the block alive still?
Theres no way lol@MillionDollarDream
Update?
I know you have sold the car already, but I’m looking to get into the STI family. I bought a ‘19 and I’ll be honest I was skeptical when I bought it but driving it (modestly) it’s the coolest car !!!! I’ve heard horror stories about these engines blowing up and having head gasket issues etc etc. I do wanna build it though and have a all around car kinda like yours is just a little more power. Any insight you can give me?
Thanks for the video lol im in the 400 hp in my sti and wanted to know for sure what I need for a reliable car
I had a FBO 2017 sti on E85, it put down 380whp on a dynojet, it had ELH, External WG, FMIC, IAG oil separator, all premium parts etc, the car felt fine but i was coming from a 475whp 02 Wrx with a built hybrid engine on a fp green turbo e85 and a much lighter car with a 07sti transmission swap, my goal was to build the sti to 600whp one day till i drove my friend's R35 Gtr, and it was a wrap, sold the STI and got me an R35, and to be honest it was the best decision , 630whp on E85 without any worries , I've daily the car for about 5 years and abuse it all the time, i got the R35 for 65k back in 2018 and i put about 10k in fbo parts to hit 630whp, who knows how many engine builds i would've gone through if i kept the STI, i had the wrx for 11 years and even though i loved that car i did blow the engine 3 times, and the 5spd transmission twice, till i went with the 07 sti swap, Subarus are fun to drive but they're not reliable if you drive them hard.
Yeah seems like every Sti owner is somehow on there 3rd engine shits crazy….
Great insight. This is why I'm considering an rs3 as a daily. I can get the same (if not higher) hp numbers as scoobyfreak with a stage 1 ecu reflash, and a block that can hold 700whp/550ish torque.
Owning Subarus is certainly a labor of love. Theres nothing quite like them. But it gets tedious after a while.
I just traded my 2017 STI in for a 2020. Definitely planning on going your route. Now, where to find $22,000?
Costs are very different for those who do their own work vs paying for labor. Even doing most or some of the work will save massive amounts of money
Safety first 🚀
My girlfriend 2016 sti had a koyorad, cyl 4 cooling mod and a AOS before it had an accessport.
I do have a killer b oil pick up and tray in stock for it, but im waiting to pick up a oil pan.
A lot of safety for a cobb stage 1+ car😅
Nothing wrong with that! I prefer doing all the reliability stuff over power mods first. Makes me sleep better at night haha.
@@Autofreakgarage totally👌 mecanic is still mecanic and shit can happen, but i rather put all the chances on our side🚀
Thanks for this video Chris! 400 wheel is my goal with my '21 STI. Barely at stage1+ and the car is tons of fun already. if you don't mind me asking, how much would you say of the 22k was labor? Just curious is all, ideally I'd want to do most of the work myself to save some money! Cheers!
No problem! I would say around 3-5k in labor at the end of the day. Most of it was the hard parts.
@@Autofreakgarage not too bad at all for those power levels. My buddy recently took his Mercedes to the shop and he paid more in labor than the parts themselves!
Sure not the most powerful cars but damn they have the best drivetrain and handling that’s for sure. Front and rear lsd. DCCD.
Im curious what you think about the vb wrx. Basic bolt ons and a tune will get you around the 400lbft mark.
The FA24 engine block seems very robust. Some people are pushing it really hard with the limiting factor being fueling.
Its certainly no sti (nothing can touch the sti drivetrain), but it sure as heck seems cheaper to mod.
ruclips.net/video/UINho0bUBnM/видео.htmlsi=w_vSRsM1p4fC_Tp1
I refuse to believe you made this kind of power without a Cobb battery tie down. Unbelievable.
😂
Hes lying for sure has a custom lightweight floor mat setup
Dang, I made the same 400whp on 93 octane, but half the cost.. right around $10k including forged pistons. But that was 2018 when it cost less and before the new EPA issues. I feel like now it would cost me around 15.
10k to make 400whp? Wtf
its horse shit just ignore him@@Fingamyaz
You paid that much? Lol
@@anthonym2277 Yes that's how much it costs to machine a motor, put it back together with forged parts, and put a bigger turbo on it with all the supportive mods, then tune it correctly on a dyno. 6 years built and reliable.
here's my build so far for my 04 sit. (the piston rings died)
gs ebcs, (deciding on the turbo, I'm thinking of something flowing 55-65lb/min w a 3in intake)
1500cc dw injectors
front mount intercooler
19mm phenolic spacers
forged internal w/ +2mm rods
street lite flywheel and heavy duty clutch
stock heads (Can't find a place near me to rebuild mine)
iwire hybrid maf speed density kit
4 bar map sensor
uel headers
catless downpipe
deciding on what up pipe to get depending on if it the turbo I get is ewg
plan on getting an aem340 pump and hardwire kit
stock oil pan (plan on getting just a baffle and pick up tube)
koyorad radiator
625 arp head studs
oem 11mm oil pump
crank dampener
dual catch cans
anything else I should decide on?
im going open source btw, tractrix cable is handy
I understand the OEM+ factor of the build which is great btw but why not a FMIC vs the top mount you currently have? is it because you’re not pushing enough power or you’re not on the car as much? as heat in the engine bay would be decreased if you went front mount but I’m just curious! Thanks!
ruclips.net/video/Sj03K59HvF4/видео.html
@@Autofreakgarage Thank you!!!
love seeing that RKTI on there! nice vid and good info
Great video and love the car man. Are you on stock tgvs? If so how was installing the turbo inlet and the fuel rails/ lines? Any clearance issues?
Stock tgv. My shop installed the fueling mods and Cobb turbo inlet, but I didn’t have any fitment issues and everything clears well.
they all bolt straight in - mine did - ordered correctly !
Such an amazing build. I’ve been following you for a while now and since the update with Cobbs access port, do read a check engine light?
Thank you. No I do not since I had everything done prior to all of the changes.
Love the video, I want to increase power and reliability also, I read the description, can you list the parts?
ruclips.net/video/ZWempNSD8qE/видео.htmlsi=1LAoOAm6471TvvsC
8 or 10 cm on the turbo housing? 8 gets better spool i guess and 10 has better top end. which would you recommend, im thinking 8 for me but want to get your thoughts
BTW, the fa24 pushes impressive numbers with just a basic tune. I loved my old ej's as well but reliability and power have definitely been improved.
Right now I'm using a Jb4 and running e30. Haven't dynoed my car yet but others with similar mods are making good power. Of course Cobb is the way to go vs jb4 but at only 2000 miles on my new car I'm not ready to flash the ecu but the jb4 is very satisfying for what it is.....
Kindly asking because I'm building a Perrin Catalog (Semi) build of WRX STI VA. And I'm changing my TMIC to FMIC is it alright? Because I already bought one hahahaha what would be the pro's and con's using FMIC? I'm planning to go stock block until 400whp can it withold it?
My current build is:
- Stock block
- Invidia r400
- Injen CAI -> changing it to Perrin CAI
- Tomei UEL
- Cobb AP (When I bought the car it's already included but will remove this and go to ECUTEK tune.)
- Torque Cylinder 4
- Crawford AOS
Upcoming parts:
- Perrin FMIC
- HKS Oil cooler
- Power Steering cooler (Planning to get one too)
In the future:
- Forged Internals
- Bigger Turbo (Maybe afterwards)
If you can give more more details would be great.
Thank you.
ruclips.net/video/Sj03K59HvF4/видео.htmlsi=lCZrnnGQYKOPblaO
I feel like 22k Is a lot for 400whp, considering you have a top mount etc.. I cant recall if you said in your video or not, but there are def cheaper routes to get that much power safely, and yes on pump gas. For 22k, you could have a 500x block from Bader, and a Green, plus cooling and fuel for less. While I think your build is gorgeous and an example of how to do things in a very tasteful way, to me it seems that you chose expensive parts on purpose, for just the sake of spending the cash, and thats fine. Its a beautiful build, thats for sure.
Oh yeah man, Definitely. These motors can be pretty risky when done up and or tuned incorrectly with the right Combinations and the perfect tune, you can push more power especially with E85
Type ra block can hold 500whp bone stock so 400 should be fine. My fa20 is making 860whp and my ej is at 1150whp
People doubting reliability forget its a subaru and some people tune these to 1000hp+
Keep up the amazing content man!
I love how you did your car the first time. I'm going for the same thing with mine. Don't get me wrong I love Devin and Baders channels but they push them stock motors way to far. Everytime they turn around they are blowing them up. Sets a bad example for people who don't have their knowledge on tearing down engines and rebuilding them. Also it's a complete waste of money whether you can afford to like them or not. That Remmy kid on their channel is even worse. He just a spoiled rich kid.
Feel the same way
The point of their channels IS to blow them up, testing the limits to the max, this channel is different
@@littlefoot4417 yeah I like this channel and Smeedia way better even though Devin has more subs.
Devins and Baders channel is literally meant to push the motors limits and also they beat the shit out of them because they know they can rebuild it themselves and also serves as content.Devin has cleared this up many tines how he enjoys beating on them because knows he can just fix it have you seen his videos he has rebuilt a full motor in 2 days that man is a god with subarus
You have to remember that devin enjoys what he does just like everyone else with what they do. I wouldn’t really try to compare when two channels do two different things. Devin also just likes to push the boundaries, he’s got the money to do it
That’s a clean engine bay.
Damn after watching multiple videos i regret not upgrading my fuel lines and rails
People get way too tied up on numbers nowadays nobody actually goes out and DRIVES. Yes my stage 3 stil makes "only" 350hp...But i'm absolutely demolishing everything else in the canyons/mountains and having the time of my life doing it. I've been at stage 3 for a few years now on my 18 sti (28k miles) After the killer b kit upgrade and a radiator I think im ready for some bws goodness.
And this is why bmws and the American v8s are more relevant now. Coyotes making 900+whp with just boost and fuel mods on e85. Bmws 335's making 500whp with boltons and a tune. Well said. Great looking sti man.
Don't ever forget them Audis
@@OneslowS4Golf R makes 400whp fairly easy.
Subaru's new FA24 is fairly decent.
Ford's Ecoboost are pretty slept on too. I've seen Explorer STs with 700+ whp.
Coming from only FA experience, this is cool to see. Obviously the EJ starts with a pretty big head start, but it doesn't take much to get the FA in that 350 whp range where the STi also sat pre-turbo (as long as you're fine with taking trans risks).
Fa is a great platform that doesn’t take much to get power. It’s just a new FI motor where the ej is a dinosaur in comparison. Although, I will say the same power level in an fa and ej do feel quiet different overall.
Bruh I just got a 2016 sti And am planning done with on it so i was hoping for Honda numbers😅 for cost but when you hit me with 22 😢
Wow, love the video but I think your prices are a little bit off
Video is 2.5 years old and that’s what I paid when I built this car.
Could you go over the headers. I been looking into killer b elh. But there's so many options.
What's the difference between 2 or 3 bolts?
Can you run the header with the stock up pipe? Or recommended to get the whole set up?
When is it recommended to go external wastegate?
You'll want to go with 2 bolt if you are running a stock like setup. 3 bolt is usually pertaining to more custom setups.
Yes, you can run them with stock up pipe. I ran them this way for a while before I went to EWG and changed the turbo.
I would recommend doing EWG either way. It's safer overall as it allows your tuner to fine tune your map and eliminates the potential of boost creep (most associated with catless setups).
For the average joe's like us that just want a good quality header on a stock like setup, the 2 bolt basic killer b head is what you want to go with.
E85 eliminates, cooling problems and lowers risk of knock.
You had said you went stage 1, 1+ then 3 how much did you spend to get it to stage 3 with the reliability mods. And what if you did that all at once? Thanks. Ps sick sti yo
ruclips.net/video/Al--AvVxUFI/видео.html
I just realised something…did you keep all of the emissions items on your sti? Did you not do tgv deletes or the secondary air pump delete? You kept all your emissions stuff intact? Because I want to go cobb but I know they have a green speed update which doesn’t allow emissions related stuff to be deleted anymore. Debating on going open source
It was completely emission compliant. Didn’t remove anything and passed no problem.
@@Autofreakgarage wow! That’s impressive! Even with the external wastegate they gave you no issues?
@jmt0728 no issues
what year (newer) is the best warx sti is to buy (when it comes like now blowing head gaskets issues?)
2021
How much of that was labor cost? I work on my own subie, tends to be way cheaper!!!
Rock solid 👌. I'd be happy with 350whp.
You can get 350 hp in an sti for a reasonable price with work, but a 350hp Subaru is a blast to drive I don’t care who you are. And probably go faster due to lesswheel spin and relying on driving skill instead
I’m looking to either build my motor, buy an iag block or get an Ra block and throw rods in it because I want 500whp in my 05 sti. I think I might just get a bcp x500r and flex fuel setup and all supporting mods including oiling etc and make 380-400whp until I figure it out. Can I make 500whp on a good tmic?
Great build
Do you think the older the car the harder the power? I have a 2000 Impreza wagon and I’m thinking about just taking the engine out to put a 2.5 in it. I would use the engine I have already with 75k miles buts it’s a 2.2l. My goal is to make 400-450
Not necessarily. The engine just needs to be healthy and in good shape. I would do a refresh of the 2.5 before it goes back in.
You didn't upgrade block? Thought block limit was around 400hp?
Stock block never opened. Torque is what kills these motors quickly. 350 is the max I’d do for torque.
May i ask what product and process you use to maintain the black plastics in the front and back bumper? Im not sure which one from the list of products in the description. Thanks
The whole car (including plastics) is ceramic coated with gtechniq csl and exov4.
Are you close to max on your 1050s with this set up? I am trying to decide between 1050s or 1300s and want it kind of future proof.
60%. Plenty of headroom.
Are there any issues with passing inspection? I'm in NY and I know back in the day if you had anything that was OB2 or newer (basically 1996 and up), ECUs needed to be plugged into to pass inspection. I understand the Cobb AP is just reflashing the ECU, but would the car run on a stock tune? Even if just for a few minutes to pass inspection? IDK what is required of your inspections in NJ, but just curious if you have run into any hiccups...thanks!
ruclips.net/video/DPrPYynjENI/видео.html
I've had 4 imprezas, but I think I'm done with ICE cars now. My experience included having them maintained by specialists while in the UK and in Australia. I had Zen Performance look after my 22B while in the UK, and then Pulse in Sydney. The reason I chose these companies was because of their experience in Time Attack. That said, the costs to properly maintain a car are not cheap. I'm much more inclined these days to run a Tesla model 3 performance, and cant wait for the upcoming highland version, which I understand will be "Ludicrous", with possible 670-680 bhp, and no transmission issues. It will be reliable, and the model has had some great upgrades into highland spec. Really cant wait to upgrade.
As for this, I think time has passed these cars by.
I just sold my Evo looking to get a 2019 STI . What’s the most STI can handle on stock motor ?
On a 2019+, I wouldn’t go over 450
cleanest subbie I've ever seen
Engine bay looks great!
Did you use the Cobb nexgen power package fuel lines, rails and regulator? As it supposedly able to go around tgvs
I run stock tgv’s, but I run the previous Cobb fuel kit before thr “nexgen” came out.
how is the turbo spool time compared to stock? I'm wanting to get a turbo that will keep a similar responsiveness while adding to the top end.
That’s exactly what I wanted and got from the Blouch 1.5. Spoiled about 200-300 rpm’s sooner and held on up top where the stock turbo died off after 5200.
Bro at 3:01 looks 8 feet tall 😂 Thanks for the vid!
Haha standing on the table
Looks clean af props
Can we get the list of the parts? 🙏🏻
First post forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2830462
Where you get that hood light?? Never mind found it
In the description 👍🏻
@Scoobyfreak86 thanks beautiful car man, shit and garage hope I get there with my 17 sti one day.
Good video Sir Pretty car...Sounds great 👍
do you have any idea what causes the P0016 issue with subbies? I got this error right after i changed my clutch.
What is cost for this
So would this change with a 11-14 or can they produce the same type of performance?
Basically the same thing. I have an 11' just did a fully built motor. Getting ready for the new tune.
U think of can push 400 on a open deck ej?
Could. Mine was a stock block never opened and was pushing 413 no problem.
Would 350 hp be attainable on the stock turbo and intercooler if I had all the other supporting mods ?
Yes. I was 340hp/352tq on stock turbo and all the supporting mods before I upgraded to the turbo and went ewg.
I made about 325 whp and 340 tq on 91, with intake, Inlet, tmic, bpv, ebcs, dp, fpr, fuel pump, catback. Along with typical reliability mods.
Currently doing a elh (coated holy header), 1050 injectors, rails, lines, and flex fuel kit. I’m aiming for about 350whp 360-380tq . I got my 21 sti new, so cost of car, cosmetics, wheels and reliability mods, tuning I’m about 85k into.
Did you change your clutch ?
Stock clutch
Good video as always 👍
I have 2021 sti., everything is stock, i dont drive like crazy., i drive normal ., you think there would be any problems with the car?
Maintain it properly and it will treat you well.
What is ur EWG spring rate??
It opens up at around 13-14 psi.
I have a 2017 STI. I want to take things slow as well.
In your experience would I be able to go stage 1+ (accessport/intake) without any reliability mods?
Or should I get the accessport / Intake and get the cylinder 4, aos immediately with it?
I would definitely go ahead and do the aos and cyl 4 mod either way. Even if you are stock as they are two things that will greatly benefit the longevity and health of the motor.
@@Autofreakgarage your the man! Thank you 🙌🏽
what are these wheels? i see them everywhere but i cant seem to find the name on them
ruclips.net/video/PqaG5X3JFxU/видео.htmlsi=RXhvQZt0YsnA5Jzu
Why did you get cylinder 4 cooling mod if you got equal length headers? I’m new to Ej platform
Had it prior to el headers. Recommend it either way.
What stage wouldan iag closed deck block, fp black turbo, injector dynamics 1700cc, double fuel pumps, hobbs switch, cobb flex fuel, ets front mount all titanium piping, 600hp. What stage would that be considered?
that isnt stage anymore, stage is for like mods on stock stuff. Once you are built you just say "its built" not "stage 31533215"
@@rylandorr i was just being sarcastic while listing the modifications on my built 2015 STi haha thanks tho
I have a 2016 STI with a perrin intake, cobb catted turboback and the full fuel system from cobb. I was dyno tuned at Boostin Performance and I only made 276 wheel hp on a mustang dyno. That seems rlly low no? also my DAM is at 0.000 now and the knock has been crazy, i took my car back 3 times and they never could "find any problems". Car runs like shit and isnt making boost anymore. Im taking the car to a new tuner this week hoping to get this figured out. Any ideas?? Im about to just sell the car at this point.
There is definitely something going on. Can’t really diagnose what may be the issue on here since you would really need to do some digging to see what’s going on.
What exhaust setup is this
ruclips.net/video/w5ifvAV4Kgw/видео.htmlsi=4ztiouPho8IopUUX
So I’m getting killer b headers with v band and up pip, any reason why you went with your particular up pip and dump tube vs the killer b? Also noticed the killer b doesn’t come with dump tube is that a bad thing?
Since I was going EWG, I wanted the dump and plm was the only option available at the time.
Y’all seem smarter than scientists fr fr. I been trying to learn cars for 5 years. I still don’t know shit. How does one know if they can build on a stock motor or if they need a new motor to support the HP. You will say, we’ll if you reach over a certain HP your stock engine can’t handle it. But HOW does one just know that?? How do y’all know that when adding certain parts, now it needs tuned. I don’t get it man.
Did I see you were selling the truck on IG?
It is indeed up for grabs. I have something in the works.
@@Autofreakgarage 👀
will a blow off valve affect the hp?
I don’t run a bov. I run a bpv, although if you have a faulty one that leaks, it will effect the overall power.
Would this set up work for a 2012 Sti hatch with a type RA block?
Yes
Do you know how to make a reliable 2011 Impreza WRX on 91 octane and visible body mods
I would go a similar approach with a wrx as well.
@@Autofreakgarage thanks for the info and do you lose the unique Subaru sound with the equal length headers
In the upper rpm range, yes. But down low, it still has a good amount of rumble.
Question bec i wanna do this setup but dont no if i should go higher boost bec i wanna hear the turbo spooling at low rpms do this happen to you currently ?
In order to accomplish that, you’ll need a much bigger turbo.
Do you have why this is doing this
@340 was it with a stock turbo ?
Yes sir
@@Autofreakgarage what size injector ?
Same as I mentioned in the video, 1050.
What kind of light is that?
amzn.to/3z40afZ
Good video
22k for 400whp ???