The product arrived undamaged and in a great looking box all parts of the kit were present ruclips.net/user/postUgkx010hhy8hzepHnne4VtzOtUictDZeYMTF and I can't wait to use it. I'm most impressed by the fact that it's a five piece kit, of great monetary value in that you can get this all for such a price. With this my former grip strength will come back and then some. I'm already starting notice a bit of a difference after using it for a bit now, and the stress ball and doughnut shaped grip designed to be carried in the pocket have helped in reducing my stress levels as of late. Would definitely recommend!
After seven years of intensive use, my HS81R's have only needed sharpening twice. First time was in the shop, second time I did it myself with a hand file. Actually enjoyed it with a few beers in the shed /workshop!
It's a tedious task, but well worth it. If they become too dull they start ripping the branches and then ( I have found) the bush gets a hacked on look and leaved bare spots that take a while to green over again.
If you use the air grinder on the flat mating surfaces, you're making gaps in the metal where they won't mate flush & pinch the stems instead of cutting sharply
Try Fluid Film on the cutter blades. It dissolves the sap, and lubes them better than WD-40, and it smells great too. It's a great rust preventative and won't harm plants.
Damn mine doesn't like to move that fast without building up for probably 3/4 of a second or without stressing the motor slightly too. You really got that one as good as possible I believe. I don't have that tool you used so can I use a orbital sander or grinder? If so would the smaller one be better than the 6 incher. I also have a belt sander and the oscillating kind. I have never seen those for my 3/4 inch corded low RPMS 8 amp drill? I already know the sawzall is out of the question unless I wanted to turn them into scrap metal. I have a sealed blasting box and the compressor to use it but don't know if I should go there and my longer blades wouldn't fit. The small angle grinder makes me a bit leary tho since I have never done this before. Thanks
hi , what is bers ? i think an angle grinder is the best, and what you need to take of if you cal it a ber is the rounding of the bottom part of the blades , i think you should show it in closeup . basically no need to take out the gear but its a good idea, i think it can be ok also to flip the connecting rods, . that's a real good gear you have there but many gears like echo tanaka and so have very thin pins that need to be replaced together with the connecting rods frequently and that is a nother story ...
at the shop i work at we do it alot simpler, we just align the blades, take the air angle grinder like you had and sharpen them exactly as you did. I see the diffrence but in time its just not worth it to do i dont think since were so busy now. we get about $40 for sharpening double sided 20" blades how about U
.Sharpening a blade is not a "repair" its called maintenance ..And that is not the quick and easy way to sharpen them .. thats the long and difficult way.. if you would like for me to make you the correct quick and easy way video ..let me know .. i will school you chief. people you dont need to disassemble your entire machine to sharpen blades that are easily accessible in the first place.
I just purchased a used shindawia ht-20 hedge trimmer what do you recommend as far as a tune up it runs but I would like to go through it tune up, sharpen blades and clean it up to resale just not sure what I should do to get the most out of it thanks.
I agree with Jeremy if you did this another way...it was half assed. The only thing I do differently is I use a scotchbrite roloc on the backside instead a grit pad. If it's not taken apart to be cleaned the machine just missed a major part of the service. All of the crud between the blades makes the engine work harder. Can't wait to see the half ass way next.. if he ever posts it.
Before sharpening, just remove the nuts on the little bolts holding the blades together and check the wear on the washers touching the moving blades. No need to remove the blades from motor assembly either! Replace if worn with like size or temporarily turn them over so the worn side of washer is up. Often this is all that's needed or even absolutely necessary after all the sharpening is done.
Great video thanks. I don't know what part of the USA you are, but you sound a lot like Ricky Bobby from Talladega Nights. (I sound like a kangaroo so don't worry.) I'm subscribing and will look forward to more great tips. Thanks again!
Mine is starting very hard and if I start it once I pull the revs it stops again I also use dw40 on the blades I think the carburetor might be the problem what do you think
Hi, can you help advise me please, my petrol hedge cutters blades keep running on idle, i've adjusted the idle screw as low as i can go then it cuts out. the manual says to take to a dealer, is there anything I can do myself. Thank you
wal buzz It could be that the spring (or springs) which holds the clutch shoes together has broken. The spring provides resistance to the centrifugal force acting on the clutch shoes when the crankshaft it turning - without that spring the blades will turn at idle speed because the clutch shoes fly out and make contact with the inside of the clutch drum. When the spring is intact the engine revs have to reach a certain level before the centrifugal force is strong enough to overcome the force of the spring holding the shoes together. You'll probably have to take the trimmer apart to confirm my speculation - a new set of clutch springs are not difficult (perhaps fiddly) to replace.
OLLIE251391 Thank you for your help, the bolt holes had enlarged allowing the clutch to just move around too much, replaced whole clutch and bolts and it's working as good as new. I really appreciate as many others do the time taken by people such as yourself to help and guide other people who may lack experience but you guys point the way and following good advice on safety and tips really has saved my buying a new unit. Thank you sincerely walbuzz.
i have a sthil hedge trimmer and i was wondering what causes the blades not to move, it starts up and everything put as soon as i hit the throttle the blades don't move at all, and i was wondering would that have to do with timing on it if the timings off, or is the gear shaft or anything with the gears wore out, and if thats the case how could i tell if the gears or shaft is out of place wore out or if the timing is off?
Does it sound like its trying to move them but being held back and then dies? If so try getting the hedge trimmer blade spray which removes rust and lubricates. If that doesn't make any difference you might have a stuck clutch drum which means more taking apart and WD-40 rinse then slowly working it back an forth till its loose and moves without resistance. Good luck and hopefully its not to bad.
Hi I have the same stihl in the video 81....I cleaned the carby and cleaned the blade and spark plug the machine is not very old....It ideals but when you add reves the blade just moves a little bit and then bogs down and dies any help would be good....
kevin storey did u pull out the spark arrestor and burn off all the oil? I bought a pair of hs45 and always bogs down with any gas..pulled out spark arrestor and took a torch to it and wire brushed the dust n flakes ...good as new easy fix
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The product arrived undamaged and in a great looking box all parts of the kit were present ruclips.net/user/postUgkx010hhy8hzepHnne4VtzOtUictDZeYMTF and I can't wait to use it. I'm most impressed by the fact that it's a five piece kit, of great monetary value in that you can get this all for such a price. With this my former grip strength will come back and then some. I'm already starting notice a bit of a difference after using it for a bit now, and the stress ball and doughnut shaped grip designed to be carried in the pocket have helped in reducing my stress levels as of late. Would definitely recommend!
After seven years of intensive use, my HS81R's have only needed sharpening twice. First time was in the shop, second time I did it myself with a hand file. Actually enjoyed it with a few beers in the shed /workshop!
It's a tedious task, but well worth it. If they become too dull they start ripping the branches and then ( I have found) the bush gets a hacked on look and leaved bare spots that take a while to green over again.
If you dont mind me asking what size and grit are the sanding discs? thanks for so many great videos sure have helped me a ton.
You can't clean all the resin out of the blades unless you take them apart that is all :)
if its running good and has low hours i woulnt mess with it just sharpen the blades
If you use the air grinder on the flat mating surfaces, you're making gaps in the metal where they won't mate flush & pinch the stems instead of cutting sharply
Try Fluid Film on the cutter blades. It dissolves the sap, and lubes them better than WD-40, and it smells great too. It's a great rust preventative and won't harm plants.
Fabricate a block with screw holes. So you don't have to hold it.
Why you sharpening machine not use ?????
@TDHReviews cant sharpen them correctly if they are not removed from the machine.......we charge $59.95
yes when i get one in....but its very easy just set the cams 180 deg out from one another
i have a video now check it out
Because its the correct way to do it. I don't half ass my repairs
Make your video and post it as a video response to this video
thanks for showing how is done .I got a murray electric it should be like any other .nice video
i use the 3m green i think they are 80 grit....
Great job…👍👍
Damn mine doesn't like to move that fast without building up for probably 3/4 of a second or without stressing the motor slightly too. You really got that one as good as possible I believe. I don't have that tool you used so can I use a orbital sander or grinder? If so would the smaller one be better than the 6 incher. I also have a belt sander and the oscillating kind. I have never seen those for my 3/4 inch corded low RPMS 8 amp drill? I already know the sawzall is out of the question unless I wanted to turn them into scrap metal. I have a sealed blasting box and the compressor to use it but don't know if I should go there and my longer blades wouldn't fit. The small angle grinder makes me a bit leary tho since I have never done this before. Thanks
They hurt when they xplde
GREAT TIP! LOVE THE SWEET SMELL OF FLUID FILM
hi , what is bers ? i think an angle grinder is the best, and what you need to take of if you cal it a ber is the rounding of the bottom part of the blades , i think you should show it in closeup . basically no need to take out the gear but its a good idea, i think it can be ok also to flip the connecting rods, . that's a real good gear you have there but many gears like echo tanaka and so have very thin pins that need to be replaced together with the connecting rods frequently and that is a nother story ...
at the shop i work at we do it alot simpler, we just align the blades, take the air angle grinder like you had and sharpen them exactly as you did. I see the diffrence but in time its just not worth it to do i dont think since were so busy now. we get about $40 for sharpening double sided 20" blades how about U
I use the same method, but I don't take them off the gearbox... just cycle the blades so you have enough room...
raptor0571 i
I have a Stihl HS75 do you know how to tune the carbs
CHEERS
Ive tried that, and a few other options and i still cant get the blades to match up. Before i took it apart i think they did overlap correctly
Wow! That was interesting about the grease screwing right in like that. I never heard of that before . Thanks for the video.
.Sharpening a blade is not a "repair" its called maintenance ..And that is not the quick and easy way to sharpen them .. thats the long and difficult way.. if you would like for me to make you the correct quick and easy way video ..let me know .. i will school you chief. people you dont need to disassemble your entire machine to sharpen blades that are easily accessible in the first place.
I just purchased a used shindawia ht-20 hedge trimmer what do you recommend as far as a tune up it runs but I would like to go through it tune up, sharpen blades and clean it up to resale just not sure what I should do to get the most out of it thanks.
I agree with Jeremy if you did this another way...it was half assed. The only thing I do differently is I use a scotchbrite roloc on the backside instead a grit pad. If it's not taken apart to be cleaned the machine just missed a major part of the service. All of the crud between the blades makes the engine work harder. Can't wait to see the half ass way next.. if he ever posts it.
Before sharpening, just remove the nuts on the little bolts holding the blades together and check the wear on the washers touching the moving blades. No need to remove the blades from motor assembly either! Replace if worn with like size or temporarily turn them over so the worn side of washer is up. Often this is all that's needed or even absolutely necessary after all the sharpening is done.
Can you do a video on how to time echo double sided blades since they have the double cam please
Great video thanks. I don't know what part of the USA you are, but you sound a lot like Ricky Bobby from Talladega Nights. (I sound like a kangaroo so don't worry.) I'm subscribing and will look forward to more great tips. Thanks again!
Sry, but I only use a planegrinder, or at stone by hand.
we don't have those here in the states
great video but i couldn't hear shit too bad it was very interesting to see how to sharpen one of those i gotta do it on mine
Great video! Thanks again man for sharing, you think this procedure would work on my Ryobi cordless trimmer?
Mine is starting very hard and if I start it once I pull the revs it stops again I also use dw40 on the blades I think the carburetor might be the problem what do you think
It's this a Stihl trimmer pls
Where can i find the tool that you use to sharpen the trimmer blades? Great video! Cheers from Belgium
4 stars, great how to! Thanks for taking the time to do these.
Hi, can you help advise me please, my petrol hedge cutters blades keep running on idle, i've adjusted the idle screw as low as i can go then it cuts out. the manual says to take to a dealer, is there anything I can do myself. Thank you
wal buzz It could be that the spring (or springs) which holds the clutch shoes together has broken. The spring provides resistance to the centrifugal force acting on the clutch shoes when the crankshaft it turning - without that spring the blades will turn at idle speed because the clutch shoes fly out and make contact with the inside of the clutch drum. When the spring is intact the engine revs have to reach a certain level before the centrifugal force is strong enough to overcome the force of the spring holding the shoes together. You'll probably have to take the trimmer apart to confirm my speculation - a new set of clutch springs are not difficult (perhaps fiddly) to replace.
OLLIE251391 Thank you for your help, the bolt holes had enlarged allowing the clutch to just move around too much, replaced whole clutch and bolts and it's working as good as new. I really appreciate as many others do the time taken by people such as yourself to help and guide other people who may lack experience but you guys point the way and following good advice on safety and tips really has saved my buying a new unit. Thank you sincerely walbuzz.
i have a sthil hedge trimmer and i was wondering what causes the blades not to move, it starts up and everything put as soon as i hit the throttle the blades don't move at all, and i was wondering would that have to do with timing on it if the timings off, or is the gear shaft or anything with the gears wore out, and if thats the case how could i tell if the gears or shaft is out of place wore out or if the timing is off?
SeRReAL6 gears / conrod bearings worn out, posibly gear bearings too. life of the gears depends on how often you grease the gear box up
Does it sound like its trying to move them but being held back and then dies? If so try getting the hedge trimmer blade spray which removes rust and lubricates. If that doesn't make any difference you might have a stuck clutch drum which means more taking apart and WD-40 rinse then slowly working it back an forth till its loose and moves without resistance. Good luck and hopefully its not to bad.
What grit are you using on the disc's ? Thanks....
Again are they 80 grit or 40 grit 3" or 2" thanks
Hi I have the same stihl in the video 81....I cleaned the carby and cleaned the blade and spark plug the machine is not very old....It ideals but when you add reves the blade just moves a little bit and then bogs down and dies any help would be good....
kevin storey did u pull out the spark arrestor and burn off all the oil? I bought a pair of hs45 and always bogs down with any gas..pulled out spark arrestor and took a torch to it and wire brushed the dust n flakes ...good as new easy fix
can't hear you...
awesom
How do you adjust the tension on the blade nuts?
no adjustment...just tighten them down.
ya, figured it out when I saw the sliders… thanks
Thanks
Dont have to take them off to sharpen, only time i take them off is when someone has damaged gears.
why dont u just sharpen them with the blades on the trimmer instead of disassembling the blades from the machine ...