Replacing GMC Sierra 2500hd transmission cooler lines
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2021
- In this video I replace the transmission cooler lines on my 2003 GMC Sierra 2500hd
I attribute my successes to god and give him the glory.
“Repent, then, and turn to god, so that your sins may be wiped out, that times of refreshing may come from the lord,” (Acts 3:19) 
Авто/Мото
Outstanding video!! I have watched many videos tackling this repair. Yours is the most comprehensive I have watched. You had the best video of the line disconnect and the transmission fittings. Your idea of removing the bumper is a game changer. I learned much. Don’t be disappointed in yourself. You did this job alone and on the ground. You have exceptional skills Sir.
Thank you, I appreciate your support. I’m glad you found the video helpful.
Taking that bumper off looks like it made it super easy!
It definitely made it much easier without the bumper on
Job is done that's what matters and I like that truck.
Thank you. It’s been a pretty good truck.
I just had a very minor accident that caused me to replace the front bumper. After I got it off I saw that the point of impact was exactly where the transmission cooling lines went under the radiator and back toward the transmission. It barely kinked both lines. I also removed the plastic rock guards (there are two). The grill will just pop off after removing the one screw (next to the hood latch) and turning the four retaining screws a 1/4 turn. There is no need to touch the headlights.
I started out replacing two lines for about $50. I soon discovered due to age/rust it was better to replace all three for about $75 total.
Replace the two longest lines before the short one. FIRST install the upper line at the transmission. SECOND install the lower line at the transmission. Makes notes or take pictures around the radiator to make certain where/how they lay and cross over each other and the short one. THIRD install the short one (watch for a protective guard that is on the original short line). The easiest way to get the new lines into position is to feed them over the frame from behind the front wheel and then lift them up to the transmission. It is a very tight space. Give yourself plenty of room to move around under the vehicle. Remove the retainer clips to pull the old lines and immediately replace the clips. They are tiny and easy to lose. The new lines snap/lock into place so the clip has to be installed. Make certain the top line SNAPS and try pulling it back out before installing the lower line. Make sure the lower line SNAPS also. FOURTH connect the other ends to the radiator and transmission cooler. Make certain they all SNAP. Top up the transmission fluid because you will probably lose about 1/2 quart. You will notice that the fluid the is thicker and darker after changing the lines. Make certain to only use the fluid stamped on the dipstick, it's probably Dextron lll. My guess is that the improved flow/circulation from new lines breaks loose all of the crud stuck in the corners. My truck is a 2002 GMC Yukon with 300k miles. I wasted time looking for used parts. The shipping was so high that it was much cheaper to just buy new parts. The new bumper, plastic trim, brackets, fog lights, cooling lines, fluid, etc was only $550 and it all came with free shipping!
Did mine on a 2500hd classic, connections on trans is very tight, simple fix, cut lines and left a nub, then unscrewed fittings with 19mm, removed lines and reinstalled the fittings with clips already installed. This took the hassle out of trying to put clips back in with no room to work.
That’s a pretty good idea. I’ve cut brake lines off at the tubing nut and used a 6 point socket to get them out if there stuck. I didn’t think to put the fittings on before I put the lines in. Probably would have made the one that gave me trouble easier to deal with.
Great job on this video. I have gm OEM parts on order and hope to do this myself, too.
It’s not too hard to do. I spent most of my time running around for parts, and messing with in the end I think a bad flare on the tube that locks into the quick disconnect of the transmission. It was all aftermarket parts so hopefully with you getting all factory parts you shouldn’t have any fitment issues. I don’t know if it was in the video but I taped the ends so I didn’t get dirt in the lines when I was feeding the lines into place.
Do you happen to remember the parts number for the lines
I don’t remember sorry. I think I included it in the video somewhere toward the end, but I don’t remember
Im fighting the same line same fitting now as you did not sure what to do
Good videos 👍🏻
Thank you. I’m glad you took the time to watch and I appreciate you commenting.
Good Work Sir! Very frustrating dealing with parts I'm sure.
I usually try and get oem parts if I can. I think they were missing one of the fittings at the dealer though.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic its just too bad that OEM parts seem to be so much more expensive a good amount of the time.
Just watched your video and job well done! I'm replacing the engine cooler lines on the driver's side due to leaking & am thinking the transmission lines need done sometime as well. Did you drain the transmission fluid before replacing the lines and fittings that connected to it? If not, did you lose a lot of fluid while swapping out the old ones?
I didn’t drain the transmission. I pretty much just lost what was in the lines. I only needed like a half a quart to top it off.
👍
I've had several of these GMT-800's in the GMC and Chevy variety If you look at them the wrong way those lines leak. I'm sure the parts supply companies have made a small fortune selling replacement lines for these.
They seem to break around where they are attached to the frame. I’m hoping they don’t leak around the rubber crimp. I’ve had brand new lines leak around that crimp before.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic ALL the factory crimped lines like that will leak. Have to go aftermarket with the Hydraulic hoses to avoid it
One of the channels I’ve watched over the years said that the aftermarket parts cannot be exact because the mfrs hold the patent. Therefore they are always slightly different. I spend half the time on projects like this just going to the store.
I’ve been having the worst luck with parts fitting lately. Nothing wants to play with anything else. It puts you in a bad position when everything needs to be ordered and the options are limited. Most of this repair was driving around.
Did you changing the fitting because they were leaking?
They weren’t leaking but they were rusted and didn’t want to come off the lines. You can reuse them if yours are not in bad shape like mine. I just figured it was easier to replace them.
It fort you but you beat it!
Sure did, glad it’s over
Was this on a duramax or the gas 8.1 engine ?
Gas 6.0
If they made some of these lines in two pieces it would be a lot easier to change them, the aftermarket lines should be this way. Just wait till you have to change the oil cooler line on the 4X4 models...
I had to change one on a 2000 Chevy blazer. It was the most frustrating experience ever. I had to drop the front differential because the block on the engine side wouldn’t fit in the space available. Then Chevy used nut that were inside the box frame that were actually loose nuts I needed to bend a wrench to fit in the hole to get loose. It was terrible. I think this truck would be easier than that, but I know what you mean. You can make the lines two pieces if you like. Just cut them where you want and use a compression fitting to rejoin. I did that on a Jeep Grand Cherokee once. Thank you for watching, it helps a lot.
Pretty sure it took my techs about 3.5 hours to replace all three of those lines with the truck on the lift. I remember the parts were pretty cheap from GM. Covid19 has really put a kink in the supply chain for everything manufactured.
I missed the lift with this one. I believe I’m spoiled now. I actually thought about putting my truck on my trailer and bringing it to work.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I ordered a lift two months ago and they are on back order because of manufacturing delays. I’m too old to lay on the ground so the wife decided it was time to get a lift.
Did mine in the driveway in 90 minutes, would have been faster if I cut lines sooner than I did.
Do you have the part # for the lines
I don’t recall the part numbers. I just looked on advance auto and got them from there.
What are the part numbers for the fittings into the tranny
730-4952 and 730-6677, I went back and had to watch the video where I gave the part numbers so I could get them for you. The dorman part number was 800-604 for the small fitting as well
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic 800-604 is the two that go into the tranny right. So I best to just unscrew the old fittings instead of dealing with the clips. Then screw the new fittings in and just push the line in ??
Mine were rusted pretty good so that’s why I removed them. The clips aren’t really that difficult to remove but it might be easier to replace them with the lines. There is an oring inside the fittings that might leak if you reuse the old ones too but I haven’t had any leak. The 800-604 is the same part as the 730-4952 but I had trouble with the 730-4952 and I took it out and used the 800-604 instead. The 730-6677 I used and got from Napa. The 730-4952 is a Napa part also. The 800-604 is a dorman part I got from advance. You might not have any problems with the fittings like I did because in the end I think the line was the problem, not the fittings
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic thanks. I was just thinking it might be easier just to unscrew the fitting instead of the clips. Just cause it’s in a tight spot
👍