Good catch. This job does NOT require the backing plate to removed and I should have clarified why I was doing that in the video. I did that because of my limited tools selection at the home garage. I wanted to chisel the seal out separately from taking the bearing out as I didn't have a proper seal puller on hand and my whimpy slide hammer was not powerful enough to yank the bearing and seal out at the same time. If you have a full size slide hammer (which I do now) you should be able to rip the bearing and seal out together and leave the backing plate in place! Thanks for pointing this out.
I've done a couple of these, rear wheel sensor's get in the way of taking the c clips out. Gotten lucky I didn't have the hardening issues with the axle's. Love my crown vic's.
@@PNW_Car_Mods Oh I bet there was. I Would change that fluid a couple time's make sure. OEM Mustang 8.8 diff cover works great on these, but the top of the cover has a hole that needs plugged. I change my diff fluid every couple year's so a drain plug is awesome.
@summerforever6736 I've had both an 03 and still have an 07. Both needed to be done. Same thing each time both seals blew. I also made sure my axle vent tubes weren't plugged up. The 03 was around 160k, 07 was around 107k. Used international brand and haven't had an issue on the 07 for over 80k miles.
I used a hacksaw blade and cut the bearing at 6:00 and 12:00 to almost touching and then use the chisel to finish it off and then of course I had to grind any marks I put on the housing down before I put the new bearing back in
Well Done. I like the improvised slide hammer tool! How are the rear control arm bushings and watts link holding up with the 5 speed? Mine were already a bit noisy and loose before my swap but I just sent it anyways till I sold it.
So far all is well. Don't really envision much change in power delivery to the rear axle as you can't really beat on these transmissions like they owe you the world. It is a big heavy car.
It's hard to say without further diagnosis. It could also easily be a bad pinion or carrier bearing in the differential. Usually with those you will get roar and possibly some gear whine. In our case there was no noise it just started leaking badly out of the axle seal.
I am having an issue getting thattone ring that you have so i was curious as to what part number was ur kit bc my tone ring dont match yours or my car but part store ordered 3 different ones every ones was the same ?
I don't remember the part number of the kit exactly. Pretty sure I showed the box tag in the video. That ring was a bugger to get started but once it starts you just have to keep hitting it evenly to walk it down until it's seated. Your other option is to skip the parts store and just get used good axle from a wrecking yard and it will be ready to install from the get go.
Any idea what is acceptable or normal play for the axle sliding horizontally. Example wheel off and i pull on axle i get about maybe an eight to 3/16ths play in and out. Excellent video by the way
I think that is going to depend heavily on miles on the car and wear and tear. This car has 82k miles on it and I would say there is exactly 1/16 inch in and out play each side.
AC Delco tools power ratchets. I think it was 150 bucks for the pair (3/8s & 1//4 drive) with a charger and two batteries. They work freakin awesome. They have been just as good as all my Milwaukee stuff.
That's a tough one without being there in person. If you have the caliper off and the c clip is out and in your hand there should be nothing holding the axle up. If the axle was ruined and has a groove worn in it at the bearing it could snag on that so you would have to lift up on the axle to get it to slide out but that is a stretch really. The only other thing would be the S spring snagging on the end of the axle if you have the limited slip diff.
How did you get the c clip out? I was olny able to get mine out by removing the abs sensor and that meant I had to replace the abs sensor. I didn't have enough play with the senosr in to get the clip out.
Man, that it wane of those scenarios where I would like to have been there to see what you had going on. I just recently did this again on a Ford Ranger 8.8 with a trac lok diff. No problems. I just push it off the end of the axle with a screwdriver and let it fall off into the bottom of the housing and fish it out later.
Just curious, my 2011 P71 doesn’t have the S Clip in the Pinon Housing. I noticed yours doesn’t either. Is that standard for that setup because everyone else’s I’ve seen still has the S Clip. I worried the shop who touched my rear differential the day before it crapped out, wasn’t competent enough to feed the C clips through the S and simply left it out. They messed up so many things I’m hoping they didn’t just take that part as it’s like $60 from what I’ve seen. Are you able to have the axles in when you take the S Clip out? Or just take one axle out then be able to remove it? They said no play but my axle was ate up just as bad as yours after a rear passenger seal leak, bearing was disintegrated and ate up the axle housing a little.. then the next day I hear the bearing shatter/grind and have to get it towed home. I trust no one to touch her now 😕
The S spring if you have it is for the Trac Lok diff. If you have an OPEN differential (one wheeler peeler) then you won't have an S spring. The crown vic in this video has an open differential so no S spring will be there.
The plastic semi-circle part is to help prevent the differential bolts from puncturing the fuel tank in high-speed rear end crashes. The black plastic covers on the shock mount points also aided in this. Ford also sold a Police Trunk Pack that had a Kevlar panel to help prevent items in the trunk from punching through into the fuel tank. Part of this pack was a special long spare tire J bolt to hold the tire in place when it was mounted vertically in the trunk as an additional impact absorber.
It will be exactly the same. Also if you have a proper seal puller you don't have to take the brake backing plate off like I did in this video. So that will save about 5-10 minutes.
Negative. We got this car with only 62k miles on it. I can assure you this car got beat to shit on it's daily duties in the SPD. All prior to the defund the police movement. These cars also have somewhat of a notorious problem with this. That being said, she's still trucking along almost daily no further problems.
If you are talking about the sharp side vs the rounded side of the C clip and which way to face it? I wouldn't worry about it. It will be totally fine to retain the axle.
That's an open diff right? I just watched this cause I swapped a limited slip rear end off my old 2011 Vic onto my newer to me open diff'd Vic. I swapped the entire rear end. But I noticed the axles on my newer Vic appear to be in much nicer condition than the ones off my old rear end. Kind of want to swap the axles over. Do you know if the process will be extensively different for a limited slip diff?
This is an open diff yes. The process is the same for the traction lok diff. I should have mentioned that in the video. You may have to manipulate the S spring around to get the c clips to come out but you should not have to remove the S spring. Only reason to remove the S spring is to physically rebuild the clutch packs in the diff. That thing is a bugger to work with as well.
I can't say for sure and I don't want to send you down the wrong path. Any good autoparts store should be able to get you the right seal by make, model, and year.
@@Hazzardhouse318 while not impossibly it is more likely gear from the axle or bearing going bad. If you want to know for sure, smell it. Gear oil stinks really bad. Brake fluid doesn't really small at all and definitely nothing like gear oil.
That plastic piece on the diff cover is for when it gets rear ended severely to protect whatever hits it. (if it was for the fuel tank, it would be on the top or the entire diff cover bolt pattern). Remember the Pinto?
Replace the bearing and still three or four months ago and it's already leaking again the last time there was no trouble getting the c-clip out now there is 😭
@@PNW_Car_Modsif that were the case it seems like it would have leaked immediately by some miracle finally get the clip out Axle is still jammed up I've already pulled the other axle to inspect everything was perfect on the driver's side hell might as well run a 4 ft pipe down the hole and hammer from the inside
This is the only video I've watched where the backing plate needed removed?
I'm doing this project tomorrow.
Good catch. This job does NOT require the backing plate to removed and I should have clarified why I was doing that in the video. I did that because of my limited tools selection at the home garage. I wanted to chisel the seal out separately from taking the bearing out as I didn't have a proper seal puller on hand and my whimpy slide hammer was not powerful enough to yank the bearing and seal out at the same time. If you have a full size slide hammer (which I do now) you should be able to rip the bearing and seal out together and leave the backing plate in place! Thanks for pointing this out.
@MRBLACK947 good video sir. I am now subscribed
Great job. I’m looking at doing this project on my Town Car. Thank you for the walk through.
Thanks for checking us out good sir.
Right on Mr. Black,
You take a dirty, time consuming job, and make it look like a piece of cake.
Nice work.
-Chuck
Thank you Chuck. IT was a long day for sure. Mostly slow from the heat. I went inside to the AC a LOT lol.
I've done a couple of these, rear wheel sensor's get in the way of taking the c clips out. Gotten lucky I didn't have the hardening issues with the axle's. Love my crown vic's.
So far it's still holding together. The amount of metal we tried to clean out of this housing was unbelievable.
@@PNW_Car_Mods Oh I bet there was. I Would change that fluid a couple time's make sure. OEM Mustang 8.8 diff cover works great on these, but the top of the cover has a hole that needs plugged. I change my diff fluid every couple year's so a drain plug is awesome.
What year is your vic?
@summerforever6736 I've had both an 03 and still have an 07. Both needed to be done. Same thing each time both seals blew. I also made sure my axle vent tubes weren't plugged up. The 03 was around 160k, 07 was around 107k. Used international brand and haven't had an issue on the 07 for over 80k miles.
@@iamherenotheretobe THANKS FOR THE REPLY SOUNDS GOOD
I used a hacksaw blade and cut the bearing at 6:00 and 12:00 to almost touching and then use the chisel to finish it off and then of course I had to grind any marks I put on the housing down before I put the new bearing back in
Man, that sounds like it would be like breaking out of prison with a toothpick?
Well Done. I like the improvised slide hammer tool!
How are the rear control arm bushings and watts link holding up with the 5 speed? Mine were already a bit noisy and loose before my swap but I just sent it anyways till I sold it.
So far all is well. Don't really envision much change in power delivery to the rear axle as you can't really beat on these transmissions like they owe you the world. It is a big heavy car.
I have a 2000 Crown Vic that has a roar in the rear end. I was wondering did this a roaring sound coming from the rear? Thank you the video!
It's hard to say without further diagnosis. It could also easily be a bad pinion or carrier bearing in the differential. Usually with those you will get roar and possibly some gear whine. In our case there was no noise it just started leaking badly out of the axle seal.
I am having an issue getting thattone ring that you have so i was curious as to what part number was ur kit bc my tone ring dont match yours or my car but part store ordered 3 different ones every ones was the same ?
I don't remember the part number of the kit exactly. Pretty sure I showed the box tag in the video. That ring was a bugger to get started but once it starts you just have to keep hitting it evenly to walk it down until it's seated. Your other option is to skip the parts store and just get used good axle from a wrecking yard and it will be ready to install from the get go.
Any idea what is acceptable or normal play for the axle sliding horizontally.
Example wheel off and i pull on axle i get about maybe an eight to 3/16ths play in and out.
Excellent video by the way
I think that is going to depend heavily on miles on the car and wear and tear. This car has 82k miles on it and I would say there is exactly 1/16 inch in and out play each side.
Man what is that tool yoy used to take out the csliper bolts?
AC Delco tools power ratchets. I think it was 150 bucks for the pair (3/8s & 1//4 drive) with a charger and two batteries. They work freakin awesome. They have been just as good as all my Milwaukee stuff.
@@PNW_Car_Mods Awesome Ill be buying them as soon as I got some extra bucks
you and WJ Handy are tied for best Vic channel's on here :) and lmao @ USA Standard made in India - smh
You are far too kind sir! I have learned a ton from WJ over the last 5 years.
I put Dorman at the 2019 and today i feel that it is deformed, is the USA standrd gear beat choise?
Doing this on my 2011 crown Vic p71, I have a problem I took the c clip but the axle doesn't want to slide out any suggestions?
That's a tough one without being there in person. If you have the caliper off and the c clip is out and in your hand there should be nothing holding the axle up. If the axle was ruined and has a groove worn in it at the bearing it could snag on that so you would have to lift up on the axle to get it to slide out but that is a stretch really. The only other thing would be the S spring snagging on the end of the axle if you have the limited slip diff.
How did you get the c clip out? I was olny able to get mine out by removing the abs sensor and that meant I had to replace the abs sensor. I didn't have enough play with the senosr in to get the clip out.
Man, that it wane of those scenarios where I would like to have been there to see what you had going on. I just recently did this again on a Ford Ranger 8.8 with a trac lok diff. No problems. I just push it off the end of the axle with a screwdriver and let it fall off into the bottom of the housing and fish it out later.
What was the cost for the parts?
Approximately 200 bucks, including gear oil and silicone! You could do it cheaper if you sourced an axle for a wrecking yard.
Just curious, my 2011 P71 doesn’t have the S Clip in the Pinon Housing. I noticed yours doesn’t either. Is that standard for that setup because everyone else’s I’ve seen still has the S Clip. I worried the shop who touched my rear differential the day before it crapped out, wasn’t competent enough to feed the C clips through the S and simply left it out. They messed up so many things I’m hoping they didn’t just take that part as it’s like $60 from what I’ve seen.
Are you able to have the axles in when you take the S Clip out? Or just take one axle out then be able to remove it? They said no play but my axle was ate up just as bad as yours after a rear passenger seal leak, bearing was disintegrated and ate up the axle housing a little.. then the next day I hear the bearing shatter/grind and have to get it towed home. I trust no one to touch her now 😕
The S spring if you have it is for the Trac Lok diff. If you have an OPEN differential (one wheeler peeler) then you won't have an S spring. The crown vic in this video has an open differential so no S spring will be there.
Is the gear lube in the diff reaches to the bearings normally is that how the bearing gets its lubrication?
yes that is correct.
The plastic semi-circle part is to help prevent the differential bolts from puncturing the fuel tank in high-speed rear end crashes. The black plastic covers on the shock mount points also aided in this. Ford also sold a Police Trunk Pack that had a Kevlar panel to help prevent items in the trunk from punching through into the fuel tank. Part of this pack was a special long spare tire J bolt to hold the tire in place when it was mounted vertically in the trunk as an additional impact absorber.
Is there anything else you need to take out to remove the driver side axel
It will be exactly the same. Also if you have a proper seal puller you don't have to take the brake backing plate off like I did in this video. So that will save about 5-10 minutes.
Do you have any wobbling or shimmy on the back end from your hub centric rings and custom wheels?
None. High quality wheels. High quality metal rings. Good tires. Road Force balanced. This car will cruise all day long at 80 with no vibration.
Looks like you have special springs in the back to raise the car?
Lower or raise. In this case it is lowered about 2 inches.
The shaft looks new ?
mine has a ton of rust have to clean it up
Replaced with brand new.
Great video, thanks
You're very welcome!
Good job, but seeing as it is really low mileage, did somebody do alot of burnouts and hotrodding to blow out the rear...
Negative. We got this car with only 62k miles on it. I can assure you this car got beat to shit on it's daily duties in the SPD. All prior to the defund the police movement. These cars also have somewhat of a notorious problem with this. That being said, she's still trucking along almost daily no further problems.
I put my c clip in but I do not remember which side i have away from the axle. Damn, does this mean I'm reopening everything?
If you are talking about the sharp side vs the rounded side of the C clip and which way to face it? I wouldn't worry about it. It will be totally fine to retain the axle.
@@PNW_Car_Mods Yes sir, that is exactly what I was referring to. Thank you!
Wat is ur location i need sum work done on my p71
That's an open diff right? I just watched this cause I swapped a limited slip rear end off my old 2011 Vic onto my newer to me open diff'd Vic. I swapped the entire rear end. But I noticed the axles on my newer Vic appear to be in much nicer condition than the ones off my old rear end. Kind of want to swap the axles over. Do you know if the process will be extensively different for a limited slip diff?
This is an open diff yes. The process is the same for the traction lok diff. I should have mentioned that in the video. You may have to manipulate the S spring around to get the c clips to come out but you should not have to remove the S spring. Only reason to remove the S spring is to physically rebuild the clutch packs in the diff. That thing is a bugger to work with as well.
Thank you for the reply/info @@PNW_Car_Mods
What size is the seal 35 or 40
I can't say for sure and I don't want to send you down the wrong path. Any good autoparts store should be able to get you the right seal by make, model, and year.
Thanks man your the real hero !
You are far too kind! Thanks for checking it out.
You are such an amazing experience guy. Kudos .
Thanks a ton! You are far too kind.
I put Dorman at the 2019 and today i feel that it is deformed, is the USA standrd gear beat choise?
Zero problems with the standard gear. It even ran over a curb and blew the tire since this video. NO damage to the axle. Still running perfectly.
@@PNW_Car_Mods thank you for reply how much year you are use ?
Hi how is it holding up so far?
Still driven at least 5 days a week.
When it fails does it makes it leaks brake fluid?
No, just gear oil. If it happens to be leaking brake fluid it is a separate problem.
@@PNW_Car_Mods mines leaking sum oil type stuff thought it was brake fluid
@@Hazzardhouse318 while not impossibly it is more likely gear from the axle or bearing going bad. If you want to know for sure, smell it. Gear oil stinks really bad. Brake fluid doesn't really small at all and definitely nothing like gear oil.
@@PNW_Car_Mods yeah almost like a rotten egg stinch n how long can I ride like that until I fix it ?
That plastic piece on the diff cover is for when it gets rear ended severely to protect whatever hits it. (if it was for the fuel tank, it would be on the top or the entire diff cover bolt pattern). Remember the Pinto?
do you recall the part number for the axle shaft you bought?
Dorman 630-413. Comes with all the small parts as well. Bearing, seal, and new studs.
Troopers of boardome, we meet again. Great video, currently changing my bearing and seal....
Hope it all went well. This axle still lives on to this day.
What year is it?
2011
I’ve developed a deep appreciation for box fans lately. 🥵
I contemplated more than once putting a box fan out on the driveway lol. I didn't want to be a sissy though. :(
Thanks man! I just had the exact same side crap the bed on me
I hear this is more common on Crown Vics and F150s from the weight of them. Not such a problem on lighter Mustangs and Rangers.
I used a broom stick with towels and brake cleaner, and lacquer thinner blew it out air hose
It's still alive. Probably another 2 or 3k miles since the failure.
i want size oilsel and bering defranc ax ford lincolntown model 1996
Highly recommend Timken 5707 bearing and Timken 8660 S seal.
How many miles on this car?
Approximately 75k 2011.
Ugh I got to check mine, have an 09 with 142k, 🚔
Gracias por el vídeo.
Gracias por comprobarlo!
What year is ths cv
2011
Very Good job.
Many many thanks.
What's glitter bomb?
Not sure if serious? Metalflake in ur oil!
Replace the bearing and still three or four months ago and it's already leaking again the last time there was no trouble getting the c-clip out now there is 😭
What happened? Did the seal get damaged by installing the axle?
@@PNW_Car_Modsif that were the case it seems like it would have leaked immediately by some miracle finally get the clip out Axle is still jammed up I've already pulled the other axle to inspect everything was perfect on the driver's side hell might as well run a 4 ft pipe down the hole and hammer from the inside
You can flush it all out with diesel as well I suppose
Good video sir
Thank you. Ideally to clean this out you almost have to take the housing out of the car and stand it on end and flush it out.
I used a wood block to install the seal
That works!
How match axle shaft for dolar $
Thanks
IIRC it was 160 dollars and it comes with a new seal, bearing, and studs.
Great video might note use blue Locke tight not red 👍
I work on so much crap I can't even remember what I used loctite on lmao.
thank you sir
My pleasure.
I replaced old bearing a few months ago I had to cut it out with a dremel 😂
It's a pain but that does work.
If ya lived down here, you wouldn't have had to use a torch on that bearing LOL Of course India is better than CHINA :)
Yeah, down there I would just do the reverse and put ice cubes on stuff I DIDN'T want to be hot lmao.