Piece of 2x4 was genius, I spent 2 hours yesterday trying to get this off , came off easily today , only real problems I've had so far is that I had to hack saw droplink off due to bolts being damaged
I was trying to reply to your query about the spring compressing but can't see the message any more, just spotted your other query I'll see if I can help
@@michelod.i.y.5202 Thanks , I sorted it out , I was stupid enough to not realise that the central threaded part can actually be pulled up to give it about another 5 cm , I wish I'd realised earlier though , thanks anyway.
Can't agree over the modern parts statement...over the years I have done dozens of broken springs on many different makes of car, but yes, the current state of roads in the UK is making the problem worse still. Where possible I usually put the spring clamps on while it's still on the car on these clamp type shock absorbers, but as you said, great care must be used 👍
Modern springs are manufactured cold using much thinner steel rod than in the 1940s to 80s. When they were made in Ossett by Woodhead the steel rod was heated to red before coiling. They didn't snap!
Just found you I have recently bought a c3 1.6hdi same color as well had it a month and love it , going for big fluid service soon and found your stuff Like the way you work .
You'll have to forgive my slightly vague answer, as it was a while since I did that job. I usually take close note of the orientation of the parts before dissemble, sorry probably doesn't help. Thanks for tuning in.
@@michelod.i.y.5202 hey its fine understandable, ive built the shock exactly the way i took apart,when i feed the shock back up i just wondered if the black bearing plate has to be turned a certain way? theres 2 small holes up top i shouldve dapped abit paint or marker on it when i took it out 😞
This is an excellent guide , I'd just like to add 1 further thing that may help , on the back of the strut on mine the is a groove that needs to line up to a slot when putting it back in , however on mine there is also a guide pin on the strut casing at the top where it bolts back in so you need to line up both when putting it all back together ( mine has taken me 2 days so far and I'm only half done , this is mostly due to bad weather)
Did not you need to remove cv joint from hub? I am doing make 1 c3, there is bit differen antiroll bar fittings position, which does not let me to ge strut back in place. Need to press wishbone down too much. And for some reason new coil spring is not even in positon, and bent top bearing mount
Please tell me how long the springs live, even if they are intact? I have the same car, it leans noticeably when cornering. Replacing the shock absorbers with new ones did not help much. There were Kayaba, Sachs. Sachs are more stable when cornering, but still the problem remains. The springs have not been changed. Is it possible to somehow determine the condition of the springs if there are no visual problems. How to be? Thank you.
Thanks for your question. There's no real answer for how long springs last and it's difficult to see an issue when there is no visible problems. I would recommend you replace both right and left spring with the ones recommended for the vehicle, I think that should solve the problem. Double check all the linkages and bolts. Hope it all works out
My spring just snapped on my C3, looks about to be about the same?part of the spring as yours on front drivers side too. Anyway thanks for the video. Almost got it changed but the track rod end nut is rusted over so cannot get the strut out to complete the job. 😔 Nevermind always a pain working on cars.
Sorry for the slow reply, I found tightening it back up and cleaning the thread up if a wire brush and plenty wd40. Mine also had a torques bit to fit in the end to stop in spinning. Hope your job was a success.
@@michelod.i.y.5202 Cheers for reply. Finished the job last night in the rain! I used brute force and jammed the nut soo much I snapped two bits, ended up sawing the end off and replacing the track rod end. The top mount bearing was also split/shattered, probably from the spring snapping. A tip for easier access to the top of the strut, the plastic liner strip below the wiper strip you took off is also removable, only held on by two bolts and two nuts. Once removed you can use a regular rachet and extension bar. Thanks again for the video, made it look so easy and glad I've got that fixed! You should make a play list for each car.
When my old c3 got to about 110,000 miles I had to replace the o/s front spring. Once is was changed it made a horrible noise going over bumps. The mechanic didn’t know why it was making the noise. When it came to changing the n/s front it was the same issue. Should I have gone for OEM.
@@njccbr9910 it could be. It’s weird cos I’m now on my second c3. And guess what. 50k miles this time and new springs. And guess what. 1 of them is making the same noise again. This time it’s the passenger side. Iv decided to buy 1 of them noise things. You clamp wires to any parts under the car and as u drive you can hear using the device where the noise is coming from.
I see yours has a safety cup to contain broken spring parts, my daughters C2 doesn't, the bottom end broke off and allowed the spring to snag the tyre, thank God it snapped in a car park and not on the motorway causing a blowout. Bad design oversight.
I've just repaired one on a Ford fusion, same thing happened went straight through the side wall of the tyre. The owner was doing about 40mph at the time.
Lets face it bud - car parts are crap these days. Your Toyota is 'old school' - I had a Mitsubishi Galant for years - 165,000 miles and the front discs (and clutch) were original all it needed! These days discs /clutches/springs don't last long at all....my Hyundai clutch was toast at 38,000 miles!
Piece of 2x4 was genius, I spent 2 hours yesterday trying to get this off , came off easily today , only real problems I've had so far is that I had to hack saw droplink off due to bolts being damaged
I've use a 1mm cutting disc on my angle grinder in the past on tricky situation like that. Thanks for watching.
I was trying to reply to your query about the spring compressing but can't see the message any more, just spotted your other query I'll see if I can help
@@michelod.i.y.5202
Thanks , I sorted it out , I was stupid enough to not realise that the central threaded part can actually be pulled up to give it about another 5 cm , I wish I'd realised earlier though , thanks anyway.
Can't agree over the modern parts statement...over the years I have done dozens of broken springs on many different makes of car, but yes, the current state of roads in the UK is making the problem worse still. Where possible I usually put the spring clamps on while it's still on the car on these clamp type shock absorbers, but as you said, great care must be used 👍
Modern springs are manufactured cold using much thinner steel rod than in the 1940s to 80s. When they were made in Ossett by Woodhead the steel rod was heated to red before coiling. They didn't snap!
Just found you I have recently bought a c3 1.6hdi same color as well had it a month and love it , going for big fluid service soon and found your stuff Like the way you work .
Good luck, look through my Channel there's some other Citroen vids there that might be of use. Happy motoring.
hi there is there a certain way the top bearing needs to sit when putting shock back in? i notice theres a small lip on top bearing
You'll have to forgive my slightly vague answer, as it was a while since I did that job. I usually take close note of the orientation of the parts before dissemble, sorry probably doesn't help. Thanks for tuning in.
@@michelod.i.y.5202 hey its fine understandable, ive built the shock exactly the way i took apart,when i feed the shock back up i just wondered if the black bearing plate has to be turned a certain way? theres 2 small holes up top i shouldve dapped abit paint or marker on it when i took it out 😞
This is an excellent guide , I'd just like to add 1 further thing that may help , on the back of the strut on mine the is a groove that needs to line up to a slot when putting it back in , however on mine there is also a guide pin on the strut casing at the top where it bolts back in so you need to line up both when putting it all back together ( mine has taken me 2 days so far and I'm only half done , this is mostly due to bad weather)
Well done, persistence beats resistance, one you've struggled once the next time will be super easy
the strut top bearing where the pin is fitted is only for the C3 models and not Picasso models , don't ask me what the difference is lol
Did not you need to remove cv joint from hub? I am doing make 1 c3, there is bit differen antiroll bar fittings position, which does not let me to ge strut back in place. Need to press wishbone down too much. And for some reason new coil spring is not even in positon, and bent top bearing mount
Sorted, coils spring needed to put up side down
Please tell me how long the springs live, even if they are intact? I have the same car, it leans noticeably when cornering. Replacing the shock absorbers with new ones did not help much. There were Kayaba, Sachs. Sachs are more stable when cornering, but still the problem remains. The springs have not been changed. Is it possible to somehow determine the condition of the springs if there are no visual problems. How to be? Thank you.
Thanks for your question. There's no real answer for how long springs last and it's difficult to see an issue when there is no visible problems. I would recommend you replace both right and left spring with the ones recommended for the vehicle, I think that should solve the problem. Double check all the linkages and bolts. Hope it all works out
@@michelod.i.y.5202 I understand that springs are included in the list of possible problems? Thank you.
I have had 5 new springs on my C3... too many speed bumps here in Wales
hi, ive got c3 and front passenger wheel making a horrible noise checked wheel bearing all tight and no play, any idea fella thanks
Also try the sway link bar to 🤞
@@michelod.i.y.5202 its like a grinding/humming worse over 24mph
@@shanebrookes1878 sounds a bit like wheel bearing sometimes there can be little movement in the wheel but the bearing can be worn
@@shanebrookes1878 double check all the brake components too
Can anybody tell me what that part is called where the spring sits against its a white plastic thing the top mount bearing sits on it
Rest cup or suspension stop?
@@michelod.i.y.5202 thank you for the info much appreciated, I'll get on it. 👍
My spring just snapped on my C3, looks about to be about the same?part of the spring as yours on front drivers side too. Anyway thanks for the video. Almost got it changed but the track rod end nut is rusted over so cannot get the strut out to complete the job. 😔 Nevermind always a pain working on cars.
Sorry for the slow reply, I found tightening it back up and cleaning the thread up if a wire brush and plenty wd40. Mine also had a torques bit to fit in the end to stop in spinning. Hope your job was a success.
@@michelod.i.y.5202 Cheers for reply. Finished the job last night in the rain! I used brute force and jammed the nut soo much I snapped two bits, ended up sawing the end off and replacing the track rod end. The top mount bearing was also split/shattered, probably from the spring snapping. A tip for easier access to the top of the strut, the plastic liner strip below the wiper strip you took off is also removable, only held on by two bolts and two nuts. Once removed you can use a regular rachet and extension bar. Thanks again for the video, made it look so easy and glad I've got that fixed! You should make a play list for each car.
@@NT-hr3eu good man, no fun unless there's blood and tears 😊
We should have done the Ford Fusion, no?
It was only making the new brake line I couldn't do, thanks for watching 😊
When my old c3 got to about 110,000 miles I had to replace the o/s front spring. Once is was changed it made a horrible noise going over bumps. The mechanic didn’t know why it was making the noise. When it came to changing the n/s front it was the same issue. Should I have gone for OEM.
True quite often OEM is best, you did a lot better than me managing to get to 110,000 before needing to be changed. Thanks for watching
could have been that the rubber pads that go on the end of the spring were left off hence the clattering. learnt that off another video.
@@njccbr9910 it could be. It’s weird cos I’m now on my second c3. And guess what. 50k miles this time and new springs. And guess what. 1 of them is making the same noise again. This time it’s the passenger side. Iv decided to buy 1 of them noise things. You clamp wires to any parts under the car and as u drive you can hear using the device where the noise is coming from.
It happens on fords the cold does it too.
Thanks, appreciate you tuning in
I see yours has a safety cup to contain broken spring parts, my daughters C2 doesn't, the bottom end broke off and allowed the spring to snag the tyre, thank God it snapped in a car park and not on the motorway causing a blowout. Bad design oversight.
I've just repaired one on a Ford fusion, same thing happened went straight through the side wall of the tyre. The owner was doing about 40mph at the time.
@@michelod.i.y.5202 Shocking! That should warrant a recall ?
Lets face it bud - car parts are crap these days. Your Toyota is 'old school' - I had a Mitsubishi Galant for years - 165,000 miles and the front discs (and clutch) were original all it needed! These days discs /clutches/springs don't last long at all....my Hyundai clutch was toast at 38,000 miles!
True, I'm recently experiencing deterioration of plastic parts in modern cars which were once metal, especially in the engine bay.
Thanks again for this instructional movie. And great that you have done it again!😎👍🏻
Well isn’t that weird. After 1 week posting my c3 Picasso with 50k miles broke a spring.
I definitely think quality of such materials isn't what it used to be, I seem to see more bits of broken spring on the road when I go for a walk.