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Hi there...I've followed all the steps ...but i am not sure if the shocker mount has a specific direction or not . I've changed every thing in the suspension. Shockers Lower suspension arm Drop links Brake pads Tie rod end. Both sides for all the parts. But still there's knocking.. Any help please
Quite a few mistakes in your assembly, dust cover clips with bumpstop in the plastic part - yours didn't, you didn't mentioned anything about the bearing in the top mount and this one always comes apart with dissassembly as it's french bad design. If put back like that it will seize quite quickly and the spring will crack. If the vehicle did around 120kkm replace the spring as well as it will crack very soon because its french bad design, since it's a shitty design overall like all french use thread lock on the first nut. Some moron designed it so shallow the most sockets will not grab it properly unless you have an old one and you'll be willing to grind the chamfer off. Next, your top mount hasn't been aligned properly, top mount has a hole which needs to be aligned with the hole in the chassis, again its a bad design because the top mount can be mounted either way but only one way is correct. The mount is also identical to C3mk1 but it doesn't have a pin anymore to align with the chassis hole. Here you have to stick screwdriver through and take the pain trying to align. It's best to cover every bolt with aniseize copper grease because its a bad design designed by a retard who hated vehicle repairers and added so much extra thread to every bolt to inflict even more pain in repairing his shitty designs! On the RHS THERE IS NO PROBLEM, BUT LHS DRIVE SHAFT NEED TO BE SECURED ALL TIME OTHERWISE KEEP 2L OF GEARBOX OIL AROUND AS IF PULLED OUT TOO MUCH OUT IT WILL DROP THE GEARBOX OIL VERY FAST! AGAIN PAIN AND SHITTY DESIGN 😪. don't forget to check the wheel alignment after this, new parts are made of chinesium or whatever the f. this is and its not only slightly different to original buy it also doesn't last more than 5 years compared with new parts. No matter the brand you buy, good advise avoid anything that is very low china quality like autodoc Ridex parts or similar they are terrible. Remember, you did all this work and after this you need to pay for the wheel alignment, so buy top brands and save money on parts that are easily replaced and doesn't need a wheel alignment. After all this repair go and buy Volkswagen you will never want french again...
Man you're just like to talking to me... I've followed all the steps and faces all the challenges from the shitty design and the car still knocking from shockers and i don't know why.. All parts are brand new .. And the struggle still goes on
BUY THE AUTO PARTS you need for the operation : 👉 bit.ly/cheapAutoparts 👈
📱 DOWNLOAD THE APP : 🍎 bit.ly/MCD12AppStore, 🤖 : bit.ly/MCD12PlayStore 📱
⬇︎⬇︎ 🔥 🔧🔧🔧 🔥⬇︎⬇︎
Hi there...I've followed all the steps ...but i am not sure if the shocker mount has a specific direction or not .
I've changed every thing in the suspension.
Shockers
Lower suspension arm
Drop links
Brake pads
Tie rod end.
Both sides for all the parts.
But still there's knocking..
Any help please
Quite a few mistakes in your assembly, dust cover clips with bumpstop in the plastic part - yours didn't, you didn't mentioned anything about the bearing in the top mount and this one always comes apart with dissassembly as it's french bad design. If put back like that it will seize quite quickly and the spring will crack. If the vehicle did around 120kkm replace the spring as well as it will crack very soon because its french bad design, since it's a shitty design overall like all french use thread lock on the first nut. Some moron designed it so shallow the most sockets will not grab it properly unless you have an old one and you'll be willing to grind the chamfer off. Next, your top mount hasn't been aligned properly, top mount has a hole which needs to be aligned with the hole in the chassis, again its a bad design because the top mount can be mounted either way but only one way is correct. The mount is also identical to C3mk1 but it doesn't have a pin anymore to align with the chassis hole. Here you have to stick screwdriver through and take the pain trying to align. It's best to cover every bolt with aniseize copper grease because its a bad design designed by a retard who hated vehicle repairers and added so much extra thread to every bolt to inflict even more pain in repairing his shitty designs! On the RHS THERE IS NO PROBLEM, BUT LHS DRIVE SHAFT NEED TO BE SECURED ALL TIME OTHERWISE KEEP 2L OF GEARBOX OIL AROUND AS IF PULLED OUT TOO MUCH OUT IT WILL DROP THE GEARBOX OIL VERY FAST! AGAIN PAIN AND SHITTY DESIGN 😪.
don't forget to check the wheel alignment after this, new parts are made of chinesium or whatever the f. this is and its not only slightly different to original buy it also doesn't last more than 5 years compared with new parts. No matter the brand you buy, good advise avoid anything that is very low china quality like autodoc Ridex parts or similar they are terrible.
Remember, you did all this work and after this you need to pay for the wheel alignment, so buy top brands and save money on parts that are easily replaced and doesn't need a wheel alignment.
After all this repair go and buy Volkswagen you will never want french again...
Man you're just like to talking to me... I've followed all the steps and faces all the challenges from the shitty design and the car still knocking from shockers and i don't know why..
All parts are brand new ..
And the struggle still goes on
I think you put top mount incorrectly located.
👏