Improving R-value with Radiant Barrier Over Insulation
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- Опубликовано: 27 окт 2014
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Ed discusses the biggest energy efficiency mistake in residential homes and how to easily fix it so your home is more comfortable and energy efficient all year long.
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How did you hear about www.AtticFoil.com and the benefits of installing a radiant barrier? What video would you like to see next? Comment Below.
I heard about it from Facebook once I bought a house. I think it heard me complaining about my light bill. Lol I'm going to try to do this myself. I told my fiancee that if I can't do it then I'll just hire someone. Hopefully I can do it myself. I'm cheap. Lol
@@vincentalejos9892 If you can do basic DIY Stuff, you should be able to do it. Just remember, it does NOT have to be pretty, straight or perfect to work. Just get it in!
It just popped up!
I would like to hear if this product, or another product you make, is good for under floors of structures that are raised off ground.
If you could cover scenarios that combine with rigid insulation, whether to install the Foil directly to bottom of joists (leaving an air pocket in joists), or to tuck up in joist cavity.
Also, address vapour barrier options (whether vapour barrier should be omitted or good to add).
I personally, am installing electric heated floors in this scenario.
Thanks!
8yrs later; searching on radiant barriers
Before retiring, I had been in the HVAC business for over 30 years and I can drive down the street and look at the roofs of houses in the winter and tell you which one is properly insulated simply by looking at the roof if it is properly insulated the roof will be completely snow or frost covered and if not you will see the bare roof with no snow or frost which means that heat is escaping and keeping the roof clean and the house is not being properly heated, which can result in higher utility bills.
Your videos have helped me reach vital conclusions very quickly about the install I should do for my place in Wales, UK. THANKS!
Great to hear!
I live in central Texas, I stapled the foil to the roof trusses, with ridge vent, cut my cooling by 1/3 dropped attic temps by 35-40 degrees took a weekend to do a 3500 sq ft house, would recommend a power stapler unless you have forearms like popeye.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, an electric stapler is definitely a good idea for larger attics.
I have roof vents (2) on a 1900 sq ft brick ranch. orig insulation from 1981. do I need to install attic fans and replace insulation before installing attic radiant barrier? I live in South Carolina
Probably not if you are stapling up. What people find is that once they install Radiant Barrier AtticFoil often the ventilation they have is adequate. I'd measure the AIR under the foil after installation. If it's MORE than about 10 degrees hotter than ambient temperature this means the attic ventilation is lacking. At that point I'd check the soffit vents for intake and the exhaust vents for a place for the air to get out.
I was going to say putting it on the rafters would be better if you have your AC units in the attic like I do... putting it on the insulation would only make your AC work harder at first to cool down the air that is inside the extremely hot air ducts......
@@enkrypt3d This is not exactly true. Air absorbs almost no radiant heat. Otherwise, we could not have a cold-sunny day. Putting the foil on the floor will not make as big a difference in the duct temperature as you think - the air inside is still going to be really hot. Often the air inside an attic is not as hot as people think. They feel the radiant heat coming off the roof and think it's the air temperature.
Excellent video. You are a great communicator. Clear and simple solution to improve insulation.
Thanks.
This radiant barrier "super aluminum foil" is crazy easy to use. I had used it in my basement walls and had some left over. After learning I could just slide it over the attic insulation without a need to install it with staples, I did so. I did not even trouble myself to make it "look pretty." Even with the electric company increase in rates, last summer's bills were $15, $12, $15 dollars less than the previous year's bills. And this summer was hotter.
It's SO simple if you think about it. Your home is basically one big refrigerator and the insulation is the "outside" of the box. Installing www.AtticFoil.com is like putting the box in the shade (from the heat) not the light. Thanks for the feedback.
AHA...OMG. I used to be a contractor, held building code certifications and even inspected homes for about five years in Georgia and I never ever ever heard of a product such as this... This is amazing.
Also I was currently in the process of researching the best way to re-insulate my attic and found this video. Thank you for posting this!
Thanks for the comment. Check out our new product line for metal buildings at www.BlueTexInsulation.com
I am living in Tropical Equator, its hot. Your Video is excellent and I will use your format to insulate my homes.
We have actually had a lot of customers have www.AtticFoil.com shipped to the tropics! I need to come inspect some of the jobs! Ed.
Thank you for this vital information. 💯
My pleasure!
How I did not learn about this sooner..... well some, but not to the degree that I've been learning since I stumbled across AtticFoil and other similar videos. As a GC, I've learned a lot of other insulation & heating & cooling tidbits and foil backed OSB and styrofoam, blown in as well as roll in, and a bit of foil info.... but learning more. Keep up the good work!!!!!!
Thanks for the comment. There is a lot to learn. For example, why do we have to run our AC on a 70º SUNNY Day but it will barely run on an 80º cloudy day?? Radiant heat!!! That's what www.AtticFoil.com and www.RoofingFoil.com are for.
Simple and great explanation.
Thanks.
Wish me luck. My barrier comes in this weekend and I underestimated the attic. It’s a nightmare up there, but I’m determined to get it done!
How is it going with your www.AtticFoil.com installation? Any tips to share?
Very well explained ...... Great job .
This product is fantastic! I live in a suburb of Memphis, where the flexible duct work is hung in the attic. The upstairs of our house was intolerable in the summer and freezing in the winter. I installed attic foil on the rafters in our attic along a ridge vent on the roof. Our upstairs is now comfortable all times of the year. After the first month of installation, our electric bill was down $50 compared to the same month the previous year and has definitely been less than before installation. I kept track of the attic temperature to the outside temperature for the first year and it pretty much stayed within a 10 degree differential. This will be installed in our next house we buy.
John, thank you SO much for the comment! There are some people who say "Radiant Barrier Doesn't Work" So, I really appreciate it when one of our thousands of happy customers tell them otherwise! Ed.
So happy for your videos. My parents have a huge electric bill and I am a new home owner and scared to death to have a bill like theirs. I've been taking temperature readings throughout the house to graph relative temperatures. I want to apply all these tricks and see how much cooler my house will get and save and document my money spent. Because in having a lower power bill I must have thermal efficiency. Besides the money it is a game and a challenge to see how much the graph can change.
Any updates? Energy rates have got up so installing www.AtticFoil.com is even MORE beneficial.
Great clear information thx!
I have been thinking about radiant barrier for a couple years. I talked to my neighbor today and he loves it. I went online and discovered your product and videos. After researching, checking reviews, prices and videos for about an hour and half, I am ready to get all the foil I need for my house for about $200 and I figure I can get most or all of it up in a weekend.
Your videos have me inspired to get this done. I've had this project on the back burner for a long time and I am now enthused about checking this off my list, cutting my electric bill and luxuriating in a nice, cool house.
Look for my order on Friday! A 1000 square foot roll weighs less than 30 pounds and your pick up location is about ten minutes from my office. I can pick up my order at lunch!
This just keeps getting better and better.
Thanks for your business!! Radiant Barrier here is Texas is a no brainer!! Please let us know about your results once it's installed.
Will do!
+kurt copeland your going to love it... I got mine from atticfoil.com , installed it and my ussage dropped about 500 to 600 kw per month (even though it's been much hotter this year)
Brilliant video. Makes complete sense.
You briefly said this will slightly warm the air in you attic space, I've seen roofs without enough ventilation that the air space inside the attic basically melts the tar in shingles because of the heat and radiant heat on both sides of the shingle. It causes the shingle or whole roof to where out and loose the granules alot sooner than its expected to. If I were going to use this kind of product I would suggest amping up the air ventilation as well.
What you mentioned can happen with or with a radiant barrier. Lack of ventilation can definitely cook the roof. However the actual roof temperature only goes up less than 10 degrees over a radiant barrier regardless of the ventilation. Check out this video describing roof temperatures over a radiant barrier: ruclips.net/video/N0-YD32ujYY/видео.html
Another good reason to avoid tar shingles.
Thanks for the explanation. I was having a hard time understanding how this stuff works. We had some installed in our attic yesterday, and the guys just laid the stuff over the insulation and there were spots where there were big gaps. I wasn't too impressed with the install they did, but seeing how it works, I can see that having gaps and spaces wouldn't matter all that much. There was ductwork and wiring up there, so there was going to be some gaps no matter what they did.
Did they lay the stuff over the ducts? I'd think that would help keep them cooler.
Yes, it's pretty common to lay www.AtticFoil.com SuperPerf version directly over the insulation and the ducts. More here: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/over-the-insulation-install/
Best explanation of how radiant barrier ... hands down!
*...how radiant barriers "work".... hands down!
Thanks!
Awesome Video
Thanks!
This is a great idea I have thought about before. I can feel the heat coming off the ceiling of the second floor rooms in my home during the summer. But....I have blown in insulation...it would be a real mess to wade through it all and spread a barrier out. I am wondering about strategies to not make it a mess that I cannot replace easily back into place.
Still worth it! Did you see the "Over Insulation Method" here: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/over-the-insulation-install/
Very Very helpful
Glad it helped
Thank you for the info . ! It make sense .
I love your videos. You have done a great job with explaining these concepts. Quick question: would there be value in stapling up atticfoil on my rafters, and laying atticfoil on my blown insulation?
If you have ductwork in the attic and live in cold or mixed climate then probably yes. Under this condition the AtticFoil laid on top of the insulation will provide some additional value when it's cold by reducing the cold air from "falling" through the insulation since it is heavier/denser then the warmer air inside the insulation.
thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned: I live in North Alabama and my ducts are in the attic.
We love your product. Thanks again! I would find though as a licensed electrician I would have a hard time installing AtticFoil directly over the insulation for future electrical jobs or other maintenance through the attic and house. I'd have to go with the stapling to the truss option. Great video. I'd think if I installed it on top of the insulation then stepping on it would trample it down and cause it to crumple where I would walk.
Normally, if you need to get to something under the foil, you can simply pull a piece to the side since it's not stapled down. Then, put it back when done. I think you underestimate the strength of the product. You can easily walk on it and not cause damage. You just need to make sure there is someone solid underneath.
AtticFoil Thanks for the response. I'm sure it would be fine. We want to install it in my Folk's home soon. They have seen the benefits of having AtticFoil in our home in Central Florida and can't wait to have it in their attic. Great job. Please keep uploading the videos. They help a lot
DO you actually see a difference in Central Florida with this stuff? I have been looking at doing this in my home as i live in Tampa.
Florida is one of out top States. Texas, Florida, California, Arizona etc. Sunny areas definitely benefit the most from a radiant barrier. You will find a lot of reviews for AtticFoil in Florida here: www.shopperapproved.com/reviews/AtticFoil.com/page-0.html Here is a customer case study: www.atticfoil.com/index.php/customer-case-studies/case-study-florida/
10:21 check with local utility, many offer rebates for installing radiant barrier to reduce energy usage, some rebates are more than the cost of the materials.
Great info if you can get a rebate for installing www.AtticFoil.com
I'm a contractor in the rural Midwest most of my customers are going to metal roofing to prevent wind damage by my biggest complaints are the increased temps in the home during the summer. When I install metal roofing on a home I use 3/4 furring strips (1×4s) because osb does not hold screws properly.my question is if I put your product between the roof sheating and furring strips is 3/4 of an inch sufficient spacing to provide a radiant barrier
We have special product for metal roofing: www.RoofingFoil.com It's Miami-Dade approved and is an All-In-One Underlayment And Radiant Barrier. It has been VERY popular for this application. We can send you samples. www.roofingfoil.com/shop/single-sided-solid-foil-underlayment/ And a video on how it works: ruclips.net/video/dEl5tNRmVoo/видео.html
Great content, I saw a study that showed when fiberglass insulation was not covered on top, its effective R value was around R-7 (versus R-30). If you read Owen's Cornings own instructions, they saw fiberglass needs contact on all 6 sides.
Does anyone know how this changes for insulation that is less convective (cellulose, mineral wool, foam)? I'm assuming a radiant barrier is still very good, but less necessary for convective loss?
Agreed, we SHOULD build ceiling like we build a wall. Yes, the more dense the insulation, the less convective looping. However, reflecting the heat is huge.
Learn what the biggest energy efficiency mistake in residential homes is...and how YOU can easily fix this problem!
Hi! Thanks so much for the insight! I'm building a home in a van and it seems to me that, because of lack of space, it is impossible to fix the radiation problem. Will you recommend a solution for this? Would it work if the radiant barrier is put on interior walls with an air gap left?
Sorry, must have missed this comment. For a van conversion I'd look at our products for metal buildings at www.BlueTexInsulation.com We have had many customers use it for vans, buses, shipping containers, tiny homes etc. You can order free samples.
I live in Mobile, AL and we have very hot and humid summers....so I am wanting to lessen radiant summer heat. Is it better to staple the foil on the rafters or lay it over the blown insulation? Also, recently termite companies are cancelling the termite bonds on houses with foam insulation because they can't inspect the rafters, ceiling joists, etc ....have you heard of this situation coming up with the foil? Are there any installers in my area that you know of? Great video...thanks!
Probably best to staple up. Especially if you have ductwork in the attic. atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/best-install-method/ I have never heard this about foam.
Hmmm. Guess I got some bum advise. My cooling bill is usually about $75-100/ mo for a 1300 sq ft home during 100° weather. What I did was kinda like flipping the radiant over insulation configuration upside down.
Based on what you've told me, if I just laid loose radiant over the top on the existing fiberglass bats, will that work okay then?
Thx
+Robert Liles Sounds like it will work. Basically doing this: ruclips.net/video/FJZrJLiP3Pc/видео.html Call us on this. If you already have foil UNDER the insulation then you want to make sure don't have vapor barrier issues.
Hey if you are doing blown cellulose in Michigan in the attic would you still put down a plastic vapor barrier (like visqueen) before you drywall? So it would go plastic vapor barrier, insulation, and then the foil on top of insulation. Or do we not want the plastic vapor barrier when using this foil?
Yes, you would STILL want the interior vapor barrier behind drywall. Then, cellulose and then lay out the SuperPerf AtticFoil for cold climates. It will work great year round to reflect heat in the summer and make the cellulose MORE effective by reducing cold air falling through (convective looping) in the winter. atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/
Hello and thank you for your video. I have some of this insulation. Going to install it in my shed. To create the 1st barrier I will be putting installing it in the middle of the studs and rafters. By stapling it to them. My question is, would it be better to use strips when attaching it in between the studs to create a more even seal of this barrier? Or is the strips not really needed? Thank you in advance for your answer!
Sorry, missed this comment. It really depends on what you are trying to achieve? Is the space heated/cooled, location etc. Send us and email or call us at www.AtticFoil.com and we can help you better.
Thank you
Great video! I have a shop which is in a very hot and very cold climate depending on the season. My shop has R21 faced batts in the ceiling, under the OSB/steel roof. I would like to cover the batts with something that would add to the R value and aesthetics. This product seems like a possible solution. Is there a problem with laying the product over the faced batts so I am looking at the product and not the batts? I think it would make the shop a little brighter as well. I use a propane heater to heat the shop. Thanks.
Take a look here: www.atticfoil.com/index.php/garages-doors-walls/
I did watch the video, but it doesn't address my question. I called and talk to a tech, which was helpful.
Can I use the foils in the side walls?
Example Garage wall next to bedroom.
Dry wall, Foil, Rockwell, Foil, Drywall.
Thanks
Yes, info here: www.radiantbarrierguru.com/hot-rooms-in-my-house-how-to-make-them-more-comfortable-part-1/
Awesome video! Just wondering if you could tell me the best way to insulate an unvented flat roof. I have an 18 x 22 building and the roof slopes about 1/4 inch per foot. On top of the roof decking I have 2" thick rigid foam insulation (around R-9) and Tpo as the roof material. The roof trusses are almost 2 feed tall so I have all that space between the underside of the roof decking, and the ceiling. I'm not sure if it's better to insulate the underside of the decking, or directly above the ceiling Sheetrock and weather or not I should use the radiant.
It depends. If the space is conditioned, then you really don't have enough R-value in your "thermal envelope". If it is NOT conditioned, (like an attic - which it sounds like) and ventilated, then you would want to install Radiant Barrier Foil just below the hot roof deck. Then, insulate on the ceiling above the sheetrock.
AtticFoil Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation ok sounds good. Thanks!
Great videos! Should I also put it rafters too?
Thanks, yes you CAN install www.AtticFoil in both locations. Especially if you have ductwork in the attic. The staple up layer will give the most benefit in the Summer and the over-insulation will give more of a benefit in the Winter. Just remember, the FIRST layer (either location) will have the biggest impact with a smaller additional benefit by the second layer.
I live north of Fort Worth, TX. I’m currently installing radiant barrier in my attic on the rafters. Would I benefit from putting it on top of the attic floor insulation too? It’s very hot here and no end in sight.
Not much of a benefit in the Summer. The main benefit of installing www.AtticFoil.com on top of the insulation is to help retain heat in the Winter.
I am finishing my second floor. One of the insulation contractors recommended be using a perforated radiant barrier and attach it over top of all of my walls and ceilings, but on the interior of the room and then have sheetrock installed over top of it. This is obviously on the opposite side of where you are recommending it to be installed. Do you recommend doing this? If so, why or why not? Thanks in advance!
I would NEVER propose putting any foil product directly between the sheetrock and the insulation. You do NOT have the required airspace for a "Radiant Barrier" to EVEN exist. See video here: ruclips.net/video/aympJmf4bUU/видео.html If you live in a cold climate you can use the SOLID version of AtticFoil between the sheetrock and the insulation as a vapor barrier. BUT, you must create an airspace - usually using furring strips like here: atticfoil.com/index.php/applications/inside-exterior-walls-cold-climates/ In hot or mixed areas, you are better off installing AtticFoil on the attic side of the walls or even better stapling to the roof above the whole area. You want the heat to NEVER even enter the attic or walls. Does this help? Ed.
Helping a friend who bought a very old house in southern VA. From pics, looks like insufficient insulation on attic floor (none on roof deck)--doesn't seem to have duct work up there. Before laying down the Attic Foil, when I install the new pink batting should I still get it with the paper vapor barrier attached (and face it down towards ceiling/living area)? Thank you.
Yes, and I'd recommend using the SuperPerf product for an older home if you are laying over insulation: atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/
Hi, I live in Canada (fairly cold winters) and my house was constructed with only 2x4 rafters. So there won’t be much room for ceiling insulation.
I’m currently gutting and rebuilding the place, and the two rooms I’ve done so far, I’ve attached plastic vapour barrier just above the ceiling drywall.
Is that ok to do regarding moisture?
I plan on topping the rafters/insulation with plywood and then your AtticFoil on top of that.
Is the vapour barrier good, bad or neutral in this installation?
Sounds reasonable. In your area an interior vapor barrier is usually standard practice. I'd check with your local building code people.
I've been searching for this answer for 2 months... layering over the blown in or rolls. Feared Moisture or mold problems
For the over-insulation method, I would definitely use the SuperPerf AtticFoil atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/
If I install the attic barrier would you recommend an attic exhaust ventilator also or would the attic barrier be sufficient to keep the attic cooler? Which is better the attic barrier over the insulation or sealing the roof of the attic?
Usually passive "non-electric" ventilation is adequate after installing www.AtticFoil.com As for the best install method? Read here: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/best-install-method/
Have there any studies been done on heat loss in a house by installing the aluminum foil underneath the attic insulation first. Wouldn't that reflect the heat back into the house in the winter?
I think you mean putting the foil BETWEEN the sheetrock and the insulation? If so, it won't do anything since foil is a "reflector". It MUST face an airspace and be exposed to radiant heat. In this case, the foil would be a "conductor" and heat would just flow right through.
so this is the reason why i would not install radiant barrier over the insulation. In Florida, our AC ducts run into the attic. You want your whole attic to be cooler so the duct work is cooler. This is why you should install it on the rafters leaving an air gap. This will keep the whole attic cooler, allowing for your home to cool faster since the ducts are cooler.
I would agree that the staple-up method is definitely best because it reduces heat into the insulation AND it puts your ducts in a less hostile environment. However, laying out over the insulation is still a GOOD method. You could get a blast of hot air for a little bit, but reducing heat through the insulation all the time is still a great payoff.
Like you, my ducts run through the attic. I attacked that several ways. 1. I ripped the guts out of other flexible ducting and wrapped it around those ducts using plastic ties. That turned a pitiful R-7 into a slightly less pitiful R-14. 2. I blew in enough insulation to cover those ducts. 3. I put attic foil over everything. The result? There's still some heat loss, but even at the far end of my house my vents are blowing cool within a minute or two of starting up the air conditioning. I also installed attic foil on the lower section of my rafters. I judged it too risky to go higher.
Can you install the barrier like seen in other videos where it is stabled to the ceiling rafters and lay the barrier across the top of the insulation? Leaving proper spacing for air flow, of course.
Sounds like you are asking if you can install www.AtticFoil.com BOTH by staple up and laying over insulation. Here is a video on that topic: ruclips.net/video/iGXQOmdKBVI/видео.htmlfeature=shared
I believe I'll not only install this in my house but also my shop. The shop is tin Interior r19 in the walls, r38 in the cieling. I use an infrared heat tube in the cieling. What say you on this idea?
A radiant barrier absolutely performs BEST with a radiant heat source like you have. Rather than the radiant heat going straight into the walls and leaving, a lot of the heat will be reflected inwards into the contents, floor etc. of the building.
Does this method affect the sheathing in any way, radiating the heat back to it making it hot thus affecting the shingles to be even hotter underneath then they already are? Attics require a certain R value and depth of insulation which has always been sufficient by code. Your method makes sense just a few thoughts I had. Thanks.
No worries on damaging shingles. The roof temp over a radiant barrier will usually increase less than 10º which is considered nominal. Here is video with a thermal imaging camera showing the effect: ruclips.net/video/OHpyv_kxmoI/видео.html
There were two reasons I haven't done something like this in the attic of my house. #1, the moisture. Assuming your product works as you've described, let's say it's a non issue. The other issue I'm worried about, is the roof temperature. With a radiant barrier in the attic, how much hotter is the roof temperature? I feel like you may end up with lower energy bills, but have to replace your roof twice as often.
Do not worry - the roof over a radiant barrier only goes up a few degrees 5-10º. Here is info and a video on this topic: atticfoil.com/index.php/knowledge-zone/knowledge-zone-learn-about-radiant-barrier/myth-or-truth-radiant-barrier-damages-roof-shingles/
That's what I thought also.
MeltingRubberZ28 watch the video
I’m building a new house and I am planning to blow in R-50 cellulose in the attic (no ductwork up there) This is Michigan so we see some pretty cold winters and sometimes a few very hot months of summer. I’m considering to use your product on top of the blown cellulose... I’m also wondering about using the non perforated foil below the attic between The drywall and ceiling joists... in other words, could I Or should I staple up some foil before the drywall ceiling so that there is foil above and below the R-50 ?
It's tricky to get the foil between the drywall and the ceiling AND still create an airspace for the foil to reflect heat. I'd ONLY use the SuperPerf product over the cellulose. Easy to install and effective year-round. atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/
Does this work as well if your roof sheathing already has radiant barrier on it? I live in Central Texas and was wondering if it's worth the cost
They can actually work together. The first layer (on the bottom of roof deck) works of emissivity and reduces some radiant heat from entering. Then, the www.AtticFoil.com stapled on the bottom of the rafters will reflect virtually all that's left. We have had many customers do both and when you're in their attic, it's usually difficult to tell if it's sunny or cloudy outside.
Consider moisture build-up underneath that foil. That could be a huge problem, degrading the insulation.
This can be a real legitimate concern. Especially in homes that are "Leaky". This is why we developed the SuperPerf AtticFoil a few years ago here: ruclips.net/video/IDtodOepWPQ/видео.html Pretty much the same reflectivity, yet super vapor permeable.
I live in eastTexas and would love for my attic to be less hot in the summer. Can I staple the radiant barrier on the roof deck studs to reflect heat ?
Yes, the "Staple Up" method is the most popular method: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/staple-up-installation/
Would you use this in a vaulted ceiling, where insulation is placed in the rafter space, then a vapour barrier, then the interior ceiling, putting it in the air space needed for venting? My understanding of the physics says it should help but I might not be thinking of why it shouldn’t be done.
atticfoil.com/index.php/applications/cathedral-ceilings-hotmixed-climates/ and atticfoil.com/index.php/applications/cathedral-ceilings-cold-climates/
So if I live in Austin tx, is it best to staple it up or just lay it on top of the insulation? My ac duct is all covered by insulation.
If your AC ducts are on the floor and covered with insulation, then there is really no advantage to stapling up. Inf fact, it's usually easier to lay on top of insulation and you will get better results in the Winter. Depending on the age of your home. If it's a little older, I'd recommend using the SuperPerf AtticFoil Here: atticfoil.com/index.php/superperf-radiant-barrier-foil-cold-mixed-climates/
I have insulation on the floor in my attic. I want to add a floor to store stuff. Do I put this over the insulation and then put the floor down over that?
Usually, you want to "elevate" any attic decking. This will allow maximum insulation without compression AND allow for an airspace above the foil if you want to install over insulation. The best option to protect "stuff" in the attic from the extreme radiant heat coming off the roof is to staple up over any storage areas.
I found an easy way to elevate attic decking. I cut scrap 2x10s to about a foot long and placed scrap plywood on each side extending down about 2-3 inches. That slips easily over the attic joists. Connect two of them and you have a stable platform. You can connect those with boards to have a walkway through the attic or place plywood over them to re-deck the attic about a foot higher. I did that to allow me 16" of blown-in insulation covered by attic foil. And the walkways allow me to get almost any place in my attic without kicking through 16 inches of loose insulation.
@@Inkling777 Great idea! Can you send us some pictures to www.AtticFoil.com ?
didn't see anyone asking this but what about the foil-backed plywood for new construction? guessing do both if you have the option or unnecessary?
The foil back plywood works ok considering it's low cost and no additional labor. However, compared to stapling to the bottom of the rafters it's only about 60% as effective. Here is a full scale test done by the DOE (Department Of Energy) comparing the two methods: atticfoil.com/index.php/technical-info/dept-of-energy-study-results/ We have had MANY customers do both with AMAZING results. You can stand under the roof in direct sun and you would never know the sun was shining on the roof.
what would be the recommended radiant barrier method for a vented attic in new york with ductwork in the attic? we get hot summers of 90-100 at times and winters that go below zero at times. i was thinking staple radiant barrier to the rafters to keep the summer sun out. the only insulation in the attic is on the floor
Great question. For your area, I'd use the SuperPerf product and go directly over the insulation. It's usually easier to install this way. You have a truly mixed climate. This method will reduce heat gain in the Summer and reduce heat loss in the Summer. Here is the product: atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/ any other questions you can email us via www.AtticFoil.com contact page. Thanks.
Quick question boss, I am looking to blown cellulose insolation in my 2door garage with dimensions of 22' x 22' ft. Living in hot/humid summers and dry/cold winters being in New York state.
Should I just lay down the radiant barrier over all the cellulose insulation I blow up there or staple to the attic roof above the insulation like other people are doing in videos?
Considering you probably do not have any ductwork in your attic over the garage and you are in a "cold" climate area, I would definitely just lay over the insulation shown here: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/over-the-insulation-install/ I would also recommend using the SuperPerf Product for any over-insulation application: atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/
What is the stick tool used to drag the foil out to the eaves area? This will be the challenge for me as a DIY guy. Any suggestions? Thanks
You can use just about anything. Just tape a nail on the end to poke and push the Radiant Barrier Foil. Some ideas: Old broom handle, 3/4" PVC Pipe, 1x2 piece of wood. Just about anything that is pretty light and 4-8 ft. long. If there is a construction site near, I bet they have something perfect in their trash pile.
What do you do if you need to use the attic space for storage as well? I have a a single story Gable roof house (in the north east).It has 2 side gable vents and front soffit vents to the outside. 1/2 of the attic is insulated and covered with plywood the other is just open insulated/joist. Since the house is small we need to use that 1/2 for storage... I would assume the barrier would get damaged if we are sliding boxes and bins around on top of it. Could we do the underside of the roof instead of the floor? Is any value added to just doing the non used sections of the attic? We are getting frost on the nails coming through the roof sheeting right now and loosing a ton of heat during this cold snap.Thanks in advance.
Frost on the nails indicates warm-moist air is leaking out of the house. You need to find the leaks and SEAL Them!!! AtticFoil is durable to slide boxes on. Doing the underside of the roof will help in the Summer but won't have much benefit in the Winter.
Also, if I were to staple it to the rafters-I do not have an uniform soffit vent. It has holes in some places and then more down the line and I have vents every five feet or more. I need those holes to ventilate the attic. How would I handle that?
Don't overthink it. Just leave gaps at the bottom and top for air to flow freely through the attic. Air will naturally rise to the top. Air from the soffits will fill the space whether they are directly below or to the side. The air will all "mix" together.
What about the southern hot climates, that a bit desert like, cooler at night?
Works great! In fact we have MANY customers how live in areas with NO AC. However, there are a few weeks of the year where they wish they DID have AC. The www.AtticFoil.com will offload the late afternoon heat load until the sun drops and it cools off at night. This will make the home significantly cooler in the late afternoon when it gets so hot.
Would it be acceptable to have insulation between the joists and put the radiant barrier below the insulation over the ceiling joist on the bottom side(interior room side) then put sheetrock over that on the ceiling?
+Robert Liles It sounds like you want to "sandwich" the foil between insulation and sheetrock. This will NOT work since there is not an airspace on once side of the foil. You MUST have an airspace for it to work. If you are making a cathedral ceiling, then take a look at this page: www.atticfoil.com/applications-and-uses-2/cathedral-ceilings.html It shows install methods for both keeping heat our and keeping heat in, plus an install video here: ruclips.net/video/CjwZXoRzRiM/видео.html
If one was installing double sided radiant foil under roof sheeting as well as above the insulation on the ceiling boards would that not trap the heat inside the attic space?
There is really no thing as "trapping heat". Heat always moves from hot too cold. So, it's either trying to get in or out. Think of multiple layers of foil like multiple layers of clothing. They are not "trapping" the heat, it just makes is easier or harder for heat to move.
We have cracks/gaps in our living room due to truss uplift. We live in ND and temps get well below zero in the winter. Will this barrier resolve that issue?
Probably not.
i wanted to know if I can still get the advantages of this product if in FL I dont have a ridge vent but several static vents about 2/3 of the way up the roof line? I've seen videos saying to cut out the foil around those vents but then how does the air that gets to the top of the foil via other bays find its way out and not stay at the the top of the attic?
Yes, you still will leave a couple inch gap at the ridge no matter what type of ventilation you have and holes below the static vents. Don't overthink it. All the hot air will end up in the "top" of the attic. For your roof it will find it's way out of the static vents. It's basically like water heading towards a drain. You just want to give it a way out. Basically, air should flow through the attic as though the www.AtticFoil.com is not even there. Good?
Hello I got two part question,
I live in southwest Missouri with the fernis under my two bedroom house with gable style vents. I want to keep the hot summer months out to keep from using my AC as much as possible. Should I staple the barrier up on the beams or lay across the blown in insulation?
Here in Missouri is there a tax credit still available in 2022 for installing a radiant barrier? If so where can I find more info about a tax credit in Missouri?
It depends: This page will help you make the best choice or call our office: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/best-install-method/ If your PRIMARY goal is to reflect heat AND you have ductwork in the attic then staple it up. No ductwork? Really no difference.
I get it but why not staple it to the roof joists? I use part of my attic for storage and if I stapled it to the ceiling joists then wouldn't that make the attic itself hot?
The staple up method for www.AtticFoil.com is definitely best if you have ductwork in the attic. For cold or mixed climates with no ductwork the over-insulation is more effective. Don't really care about the actual air temperature in an attic with no ductwork. Only care about the insulation temperature. More here: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/best-install-method/
My attic was just insulated, I wanted to store what I had up there before they put in the insulation. Can I put plywood on top of the insulation in a small area?
Yes, and you can put www.AtticFoil.com on top of the plywood to reflect the heat.
I live in a mixed-climate area; maybe someone asked this already:
If I am going to staple the AtticFoil to the roof and walls in the attic and, at the same time, put the AtticFoil on top of the insulation.
Will this be an overkill? Or will they work against each other?
Generally overkill to install www.AtticFoil.com both staple up and over insulation. Here is a video on this exact topic. ruclips.net/video/iGXQOmdKBVI/видео.html
If installing this over garage (in attic)...and of course garages aren't covered with insulation..do you staple to the beams? I guess thats what KD Pearce below is talking about right?
Not really. It does not matter if the heat coming off the roof is reflected at the roofline or the attic floor. Either way the garage ceiling will be cooler. If you are using the attic for storage, then staple up. Otherwise, just lay it out.
So you add it on top. Your website shows it nailed to the trust.
There are two different install methods: atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/best-install-method/
Now how does this work in winter preventing warm moist air from escaping into the attic and causing condensation....?
The foil is perforated so it is NOT a vapor barrier. Normally, moisture will pass through. We also make a product called SuperPerf Radiant Barrier specifically designed for colder climates and older "leaky" homes that has larger holes for moisture to pass through: atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/
Why not move the insulation up to the rafters and plywood sheathe the floor of the attic so you can have a usable storage space?
You COULD do this. But, you are converting to a "Sealed" or "non-vented" attic. With NO airflow through the attic. It's tricky to do on existing attics without using spray foam. Also, if you have combustible furnace/hot water heater etc. You now must plan for this "inside" the living space. Usually building a mechanical roof with venting to the outside and CO Sensors.
If I live in a old condo building (where one common attic is shared by 6 other condo units) is the radiant barrier over insulation the preferred method? I live in a dry and hot climate with little rain BTW.
The reason I ask is because the other condo units have no attic insulation at all. Also, I cannot access the attic space that is NOT directly over my condo unit (HOA stuff). Thus, I can only control part of the overall attic space.
My thinking goes like this - I believe the "staple up" method of installing (directly under the rafters) the radiant barrier would not be as effective because the shared attic air would still be hotter than if I had complete ownership of the entire attic ... and could thus staple the radiant barrier under ALL areas (directly under where the rafters are located.) Since I can't do that, then I should just go with the "over insulation" method.
Or, even with a common/shared attic, is it better to go with the staple up method? I'm asking in general terms BTW ... as I know that the "correct" answer depends on the individual geometrics of my unit, etc.
Thank you for your time! Your channel is an asset. I learned a lot.
On a "shared" attic, I think it would be best to just install directly over the insulation for your part of the attic. You are thinking right on this!
RustbeltBlues I think you should share this money saving information with the other condo residents. Then all of you get together and take all your information to HOA with printouts, this RUclips video and any other information to help you solve this problem 💯
I have an uninsulated garage attic - garage roof gets plenty of sun... is it worth it running 24" wide runs of foil up between the rafters on the inside? The wood under the rafters is warm to the touch. Is it worth the effort even? Thanks.
You will actually get better results stapling to the BOTTOM of the rafters than putting between. And, it's easier! The only reason you would ever put between the rafters is if you are converting to a living space and creating a "Cathedral Ceiling" Here is the install guide for you. atticfoil.com/index.php/products/48-wide-double-sided-atticfoil-radiant-barrier-foil-perforated/ Yes! It is definitely worth it. It will be like a big tree instantly landed over the garage.
@@AtticFoil im wanting to convert to cathedral ceiling, would i put the radiant barrier in between the rafters then insulation and finally the sheetrock?
@@KeepCruzin Here are the instructions for a cathedral ceiling: atticfoil.com/index.php/applications/cathedral-ceilings-hotmixed-climates/
Great Video!
Mind answering a question? I'm in Phoenix, blown in insulation, air con in the attic with ducting. Tight cramped space, but are you going to tell me stapling to the rafters is still best?
OK... saw your response to 'e g' down below... Stapling. ugh. ;-)
Nope: Over insulation or the hybrid is for you. atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/over-the-insulation-install/
can you use this in a space without attic such as a 2x10 ceiling without vents? Right under roof sheeting and then r38?
You can. You will need an airspace on one side of the foil for it to work.
I put this stuff over 3M SM600L with foil taping over the seams, holes and cracks in an RV.... It stopped heat from getting in. And cold from getting out..The same for Winter time..
And yes I used a thermal tester to see the real world results. As I live in Texas. The outside temperature was 100 degrees f...The RV stayed at 72 with the ac on low...When I put the stuff over the outside of the windows. It got down to 67 degrees with AC on low. And that is a 6k BTU AC unit. Not some 12kBTU+ AC unit...
Great info.
I completely agree and installed your product in a 1500:sq ft second story addition in Oregon ( HUGE difference in one area where I ran out in an eve-I ultimately made that into a play area and HAD to go back and use attic foil Which, incidentally looks just like the foil used to highlight hair🤣)...?if someone has a standing metal roof with a silver finish, is radiant insulation needed in the roof Southern climates ( I’d still do walls) ?
Yes, even a silver standing seam roof will benefit from a radiant barrier. Think about a chrome bumper. It is VERY reflective, but you would NOT want to sit on one on a hot-sunny day.
if you had limited funds, what's the order you would do things to improve energy loss: 1) paint roof white, 2)atticfoil, 3) more attic insulation?
I would not paint roof white. If you are in the hot South, I'd add AtticFoil and then when funds allow add more insulation. It's hard to install the foil AFTER adding more insulation.
Hi Ed, thanks for the reply. Do you have a video explaining why not to the white paint? I couldn't find a video on your channel and it seems like a no brainer idea. Is white paint different from reflective paint to you? I'm also confused why installing foil is hard after adding insulation. If you don't have time to answer, these questions would make terrific videos for your viewers. thanks
Just because something is white does not necessarily mean it's reflective (to HEAT). You could paint steel white or think of a chrome bumper. They may reflect the light, but not so much the HEAT. We are talking about Infrared Radiation (radiant heat) it's the INVISIBLE part of the light spectrum. If you are stapling up the foil, then you don't want to trample through your new insulation. If you are laying the AtticFoil on TOP of the insulation then you WOULD install more insulation then leave some paths to move through the insulation to lay the AtticFoil on top. Instructions here: www.atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/over-the-insulation-install/
Danh, I would use closed cell spray foam and then put this stuff over top of it everywhere!
In hot/warm climates will we still see the same benefits from placing the foil on the insulation blown into the attic space?
+Bertwin Lord Yes, especially if you have no ductwork in the attic. If you DO have ductwork in the attic then stapling up is definitely the best install method: Here is a video for installing directly over insulation: ruclips.net/video/FJZrJLiP3Pc/видео.html
AtticFoil Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation x
We are interested in removing the typical ceiling all across our 800sqft home. We want to create vaulted ceilings instead. With the ceiling removed we would have what I see next to you at 4:32 so my question is do we install the foil against the plywood then add insulation and last the vertical drywall to have our vaulted ceiling insulated the best or do we put the insulation first then foil and last drywall? We do not have any ductwork in the ceiling.
I think this is what you are looking for. How to install a radiant barrier inside a cathedral ceiling: ruclips.net/video/CjwZXoRzRiM/видео.html
I will be asking more questions and I hope you don’t mind. I live in Southern California and in the Mojave Desert. We have a portable air conditioner in the bedroom and in the summer it cannot keep up. On days in fall when we get the same outside air temperature the unit works great. Obviously, it is the radiant heat from a hotter sun in the summer that is the problem. I am very interested in your product. My first question is after the application how can I walk in the attic again. I rarely go up there but sometimes I have to. For instance right now I am running a wire for a second doorbell. I have blown in insulation. Should I add more insulation and then put your product in or go with what I have?
Yes, occasionally walking on it is fine. It's VERY tough! As for insulation, you want to be at least 4-6 inches above any wood ceiling joists on the attic floor. Basically, if you can look down and SEE wood, you want a least several inches of insulation covering it. The wood will act like a conduit and allow what's called "thermal bypass".
Teacher Lynn-Is your "portable" air conditioner the one that you can wheel around from room to room, and has a tube that exhausts the hot air outside? If it is, and if it does NOT have a second tube to draw in fresh air, then you portable air conditioner is using the air that you just paid to cool to cool the condenser (the part that is usually outside) and push the hot air from the inside condenser outside. These types of A/Cs are VERY inefficient, and you'd be much better off with a standard through the window (or wall) type of A/C.
Hope this helps.
I have a new home in Florida with a solid metal roof and no ridge vents, gables or other openings . The house perimeter has a continuous soffit. The attic area over the garage is not insulated and really heats up in summer well over a 115 degrees. Planning to put the radiant barrier pinned to the joists as your demo shows, add blown in insulation which I would cover with the radiant barrier, AND a fan toward the top of the attic to help move air. Does this make sense or should or is their a better approach?
Sounds like a GREAT plan. Florida homes can be tricky since they are often built with no topside exhaust vents because of hurricane risks. But, this can also make them SUPER HOT. Definitely add www.AtticFoil.com radiant barrier and more insulation. As far as a fan? Is this to exhaust air to the outside or just move air around inside the attic? I was not clear on this. You definitely want to find way to let the hot air OUT of the top of the attic. I'd prefer a passive method over a fan. ANY hole will help. This is like just cracking your windows in your car when parked in the sun can make a HUGE difference. Combine these things and your home will be much more comfortable and efficient.
@@AtticFoil The plan for the fan was to suck air out and exit through the soffit, otherwise I would have to cut into the exterior wall and attach the fan to provide suction that would exhaust the attic air to the outside. Frankly, then I thought since I am attaching the radiant barrier to the joists, installing insulation, then covering that also, I would just use the fan to agitate the air to encourage cooler air to enter and exit through the soffits. If there is a better way I am all ears. And thank you for the quick response as I have just started to staple to the joists.
@@irobot6992 If you are going to move air, make sure it's coming in/out and not just circulating to actually have a cooling effect.
A roofing company suggested to use Low E radiant barrier under my flat roof. But from what I can tell - you do not get the advantage without an air gap - True?
No airspace = NO Radiant Barrier. The tiny bit of foam will help some, but the foil does not make a difference without and airspace.
Back in the 1960's you could buy fiberglass installation from the "big name" producers that came with aluminum barriers on each side. It got to the point that the product would NOT be sold for use in homes, you had to give the idea the installation was in a small business. ANY IDEA AS TO WHY? Basically your product turns paperbacked, or bare fiberglass installation into the product sold "back then".
Since a foil layer MUST face an airspace to reflect radiant heat, I think they were pulled since so much of it was being installed incorrectly. If you just stuff it between the drywall and the sheathing the foil gives virtually no benefit since it is in full contact with either the drywall or sheathing.
@@AtticFoil Makes sense, thanks!
So is it better to just install over the insulation in house that gets cold winters and hot summers or install on trusses and over insulation?.....or is that overkill?
If you do not have ductwork in the attic, then there is not much of an advantage to the staple up method and the over insulation method. If you DO have ductwork in the attic, then stapling up would provide some additional benefit to reduce summer heat gain. It really depends on how difficult the job would be. We have had many customers do both with great results. If stapling up isn't too difficult, and you have ductwork in the attic, and you can install it yourself, then it will definitely help. Just keep in mind, if you want to do both, you will want to staple up first then go over the insulation.
Massachusetts: is it better to place it across the roof or directly on insulation?
For your area, I would typically recommend laying over the insulation and use the SuperPerf product. atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/over-the-insulation-install/
what about in between the rafters, Do i put the insulation up first then the foil or the foil up first then cover with rockwool? Thanks.
Normally, the only time you would put insulation between the rafters is if you are creating a non-ventilated attic and moving the insulation layer from the floor of the attic to the bottom of the roof. Usually, the best method is to staple the www.AtticFoil.com to the bottom of the roof rafters to reflect/stop radiant heat and then add more traditional insulation to the floor to reduce conductive heat.
Building a new home, can I put this on the ceiling then sheetrock over it. Then insulate over the foil.
NO, for foil to work as a "reflector" it MUST face at least one airspace. atticfoil.com/index.php/about-radiant-barrier/why-is-an-air-space-required/
Wouldn't it be better to install the radiant barrier across the roof rafters? In the hot summer this would reflect the heat back before it filled your attic and give a good Chimney effect of allowing air in soffitt vents and out through ridge vent.
It depends, if you are in in the South and have ductwork in the attic, then yes, stapling up is probably your best install method. However, if you are in cold or mixed climates, you would probably want to lay out on top of the insulation. This article discusses the best method to install radiant barrier: www.atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/best-install-method/ Also, our new SuperPerf product is perfect for cold or mixed climates: www.atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/
Yes for summer.
IN winter it is better at ceiling level.
So insulation encapsulated with foil would work.
Can you use the Stample up method on a roof that already has radiant barrier roof material?
You can. You will get some additional benefit.
What happens to the heat that is reflected off the barrier? Doesn't it cook my asphalt tiles? Other videos say NOT TO lay radiant barrier material onto blown in insulation. Trapping in moisture between the attic floor and the ceiling below.
No, the roof temp goes up a few degrees. Info and video here: atticfoil.com/index.php/knowledge-zone/knowledge-zone-learn-about-radiant-barrier/myth-or-truth-radiant-barrier-damages-roof-shingles/ As for trapping moisture? This is why we make the www.AtticFoil.com SuperPerf Product for the over-insulation method: atticfoil.com/index.php/products/45-wide-perforated-double-sided-radiant-barrier-foil-superperf/
What’s your recommendation for using foil radiant barrier in an attic that has under decking with secured fiberglass insulation strap to it. The roof of the home in the attic has blown insulation. With these two forms of insulation up there, should the radiant barrier still be used in this setup? I want to do, just asking the experts!
Putting www.AtticFoil.com BELOW regular insulation will only have a minimal benefit. Ideally, you want the radiant barrier to be towards the outside of the assembly. The radiant barrier is your first line of defense against radiant heat (like a tree) and traditional insulation is your second line of defense against conductive heat.
@@AtticFoil Thank you for your informative response. 💝