I work on the pipeline, we do compaction at 6” lifts 12” seems to be a little too much to get proper soil hardness. I guess it depends on soil type. A, B, or C soil
Excellent video Ron but what I would like to know is instead of compacting soil around the pipe if you poured concrete all around the pipe and a few foot above it would that make it stronger than just soil
yes. look up stainless steel fiber reinforced UHPC. concrete's enemies: aggregate/ mix design, chemical leeching and intrusion/ acidification (porosity), lack or geometry of reinforcement, rusting corrosion or debonding of reinforcement, improperly engineered geometry
oh my word, if only i had the money :( my shelter design would be mint! alas i live in the uk and broke :( never mind, in another life maybe lol. love your shelters btw :) much luv from the uk :)
I feel the same right now i am in germany. Its expansive here and iam sure you need alot of paperwork to get the permission. But I also do have some nice design in mind...maybe the lottery will help me :-)
He stands on tip toes on one foot. and then stands flat on both feet... It doesnt take an einstien to know youre transferring 80% of your weight to the surrounding dirt and not the Shelter Itself. Not Saying Its completely incorrect Im just saying Thats inconsistent.
@@Baigle1 I mean i watched the video pal... doesnt change the fact one time hes literally applying easily 230ish pounds over the Surface area of the Tip of his boot... and then once the dirts Packed He distributes all of his weight Evenly over the Surface of the Packed soil. The inconsistincies Bothered Me. If i were mentally incompetent id thank you for assuming i dont know what im on about.
yep. hard to judge where a comment comes from. most are lacking the basic understanding. however you feel, it doesn't matter. drop in the ocean. will continue on as usual
My question was is hydro packing and acceptable alternative. Ie wetting down the ground so it turns to basically mud and settles. I understand there's the challenge of keeping the pipe from popping up out of the ground in such a scenario. That's my question though.
Compaction is very dependent on the moisture content of the fill material. To little moisture and the fill material will not consolidate. To much water and the particles in the fill will be held apart by the water and not reach maximum compaction or may not compactat all. You realy need the fill to be compacted when it has the right moisture level for that particular fill material. That is why test labs test fill material then come out to the job site to test how well the material was installed. But a fair generality is water will wash 1/4 minus crushed rock under the pipe after the pipe is in place. Then use larger rock to completely surround the pipe after the water has drained away. Be aware that if you bed the pipe in concrete then change to a different back fill material right at the change point there there can be a serious corrosion problem. That point should be protected with a mastic or a 20 mill plastic tape for a few inches either side of the change fill material. This can also happen where the metal pipe crosses from rock fill or native material in to a protective concrete pad at ground level.
as long as the concrete remains intact (proper mix and reinforcement design) and the alkalinity doesn't acidify or corrosion occur, you can expect it to last thousands of years, as some mix designs are as strong or stronger than the hardest granite. search UHPC
yes. just choose a strong, durable mix design with proper reinforcement that won't leech acidic or corrosive materials into the concrete over time (non-porous cured). search UHPC.
galvanization is a cop out. the layers are there to act as sacrificial anodes along the whole surface, or as a simple barrier layer in non-hostile environments. it is not truly durable
Good video, but chances are, you're not going to put your shelter where there's any sort of major foot traffic, let alone vehicle traffic. Never the less, compaction is very important for the sake of radiation protection. You need compacted soil to stop radiation, and the denser the material, the more protection. Concrete is very dense, and provides great protection, lead is even more dense, and of course provides more protection, loose soil...not so much. Keep up the great work.
He went on the ball of 1 foot for the non compacted but not for the compacted and used 2 feet for the compacted, thus about 5 times more pressure on the non compacted. Not an accurate test. You can see that compacted still wants to crush if he used the same amount of pressure
What about removing moisture inside the Atlas Survival shelter? Moisture even from peoples breath can cause condensation. How do you remove the moisture?
Have been looking into these shelter types for weather issues... but, now re-thinking as I see that protection from foreign sources may also be a necessity? Please tell me I'm not seeing things : Seeing Russia increase a military presence along its borders, and now Sweden informing their citizens to know how to prep... ruclips.net/video/YCAJofc4ajM/видео.html --- has got me thinking I'm either seeing things incorrectly or...
Your biggest concern in this context would be be soil liquefaction, this is most likely to occur in uncompacted, moderately saturated, granular soils. Since it's probably not cost effective to change the soil type, your best protections against this are good drainage to keep the surrounding soil relatively dry and soil compaction. If you're particularly concerned you might want to excavate down a few feet below the base and put the soil back in 6-12 inch lifts, compacting each layer ideally to 95% but at least to 90% of the modified proctor density (ASTM D1557). And make sure you have good drainage, keeping the soil around your underground structure relatively dry is probably the best thing you can do. Granted, most my knowledge is related to underground culverts, not bunkers, but I don't see why the same principles wouldn't apply.
@@costakeith9048 compactionis anyway very important of course. ..but why a cementation of the complete bunker this should also help against to much water like they do with a tunnel
@UC1vlJ_PjZAIP_gCZSNZWyfg thx i just need do more research about underground construction technique. Till now i just liked the bunker design and even researched the air system.
Bir tanesini ayağının ucuyla basıyor güçlü bir şekilde öbürüne ayağının ortası ile basıyor o yüzden edilmedi öbüründe çakıl taşı çoktu öbüründe çakıl taşı yoktu
While the principle is accurate this test is bogus. Watch where the ball of his foot is on the "smashed" pipe versus the flat foot approach of the tamped pipe.
Virtually all road tunnels installed under hills, mountains and rivers are tubular in design, that alone should tell you something about strength levels.
When you transport these shelters, do you tarp them for anonymity so nosy people like neighbors and passersby's don't know what's underneath? I'd rather outsiders not know what I'm doing.
My favorite RUclipsr always teaching me something
Really? I am your favorite RUclipsr???? no way I suck at this shit lol
@@AtlasSurvivalShelters you have really informative content keep up the good work!
@@AtlasSurvivalShelters Actually, you have great videos. I've been watching them for hours. Being yourself is what people like, I believe.
I believe the concept is called “earth arching”.
I work on the pipeline, we do compaction at 6” lifts 12” seems to be a little too much to get proper soil hardness. I guess it depends on soil type. A, B, or C soil
Excellent video Ron but what I would like to know is instead of compacting soil around the pipe if you poured concrete all around the pipe and a few foot above it would that make it stronger than just soil
green magic great question, I wondered that myself
yes. look up stainless steel fiber reinforced UHPC. concrete's enemies: aggregate/ mix design, chemical leeching and intrusion/ acidification (porosity), lack or geometry of reinforcement, rusting corrosion or debonding of reinforcement, improperly engineered geometry
Damn giants jump up and down on top of my shelter....
i swear to you i thought the same thing in my head right before i read this 🤤😂
Sate kacinavla pene agaf okurafte
Awesome
Thanks for the info, very informative
This was a great demonstration
The 15 Thumbs down must be friends and family of competition "S"...
oh my word, if only i had the money :( my shelter design would be mint! alas i live in the uk and broke :( never mind, in another life maybe lol. love your shelters btw :) much luv from the uk :)
I feel the same right now i am in germany. Its expansive here and iam sure you need alot of paperwork to get the permission.
But I also do have some nice design in mind...maybe the lottery will help me :-)
This looks like it was filmed back in the 90's and broadcast on public access TV still relavent today though nonetheless!
I'm watching Pete and Bob pound sound at 5 am. When I get a shelter I'm gonna crawl in it and die.
Great Video!
Thanks I notice you always watch my videos and comment on the bad people Thanks for having my back buddy Ron
Nice video! Keep em' coming 👌👍
He stands on tip toes on one foot. and then stands flat on both feet... It doesnt take an einstien to know youre transferring 80% of your weight to the surrounding dirt and not the Shelter Itself. Not Saying Its completely incorrect Im just saying Thats inconsistent.
right. has more to do with unsettled dirt not providing a strong enough arch since the particles don't touch or transfer the force very well
@@Baigle1 I mean i watched the video pal... doesnt change the fact one time hes literally applying easily 230ish pounds over the Surface area of the Tip of his boot... and then once the dirts Packed He distributes all of his weight Evenly over the Surface of the Packed soil. The inconsistincies Bothered Me. If i were mentally incompetent id thank you for assuming i dont know what im on about.
yep. hard to judge where a comment comes from. most are lacking the basic understanding. however you feel, it doesn't matter. drop in the ocean. will continue on as usual
My question was is hydro packing and acceptable alternative. Ie wetting down the ground so it turns to basically mud and settles. I understand there's the challenge of keeping the pipe from popping up out of the ground in such a scenario. That's my question though.
wetting it down after compaction will probably help stabilize the earth more, not too much water.
Compaction is very dependent on the moisture content of the fill material. To little moisture and the fill material will not consolidate. To much water and the particles in the fill will be held apart by the water and not reach maximum compaction or may not compactat all. You realy need the fill to be compacted when it has the right moisture level for that particular fill material. That is why test labs test fill material then come out to the job site to test how well the material was installed. But a fair generality is water will wash 1/4 minus crushed rock under the pipe after the pipe is in place. Then use larger rock to completely surround the pipe after the water has drained away. Be aware that if you bed the pipe in concrete then change to a different back fill material right at the change point there there can be a serious corrosion problem. That point should be protected with a mastic or a 20 mill plastic tape for a few inches either side of the change fill material. This can also happen where the metal pipe crosses from rock fill or native material in to a protective concrete pad at ground level.
galvanic corrosion series is the worst
Great idea radar resistant
door and hatch seals need to be better
If you were to encase one of these shelters in a concrete shell, I wonder how long it would last
as long as the concrete remains intact (proper mix and reinforcement design) and the alkalinity doesn't acidify or corrosion occur, you can expect it to last thousands of years, as some mix designs are as strong or stronger than the hardest granite. search UHPC
I tried calling your toll free number. BUT it said that your number is not available to be contacted from my calling area.
Would pouring concrete on the sides of the pipe make it last longer or allow it to be installed deeper?
yes. just choose a strong, durable mix design with proper reinforcement that won't leech acidic or corrosive materials into the concrete over time (non-porous cured). search UHPC.
I LIVE IN SAINT AUGUSTINE FL,DO YOU SET UP YOIUR BUNKERS IN FL?HOW MUCH DOES 1 COST?
If you were to fill it with concrete instead of compacted soil would that work even better?
yes. see my other replies.
I'm a welder/ boilermaker!! Do you back grind and weld both sides? Do you repaint welds with galvinized paint??
galvanization is a cop out. the layers are there to act as sacrificial anodes along the whole surface, or as a simple barrier layer in non-hostile environments. it is not truly durable
What if you encase it with cement?
Great Video.
What if instead of packing down earth, I buried it in concrete? Would this work?
Yes concrete would work, but it's expensive. Properly compacted soil works just as well, and it's much cheaper.
Good video, but chances are, you're not going to put your shelter where there's any sort of major foot traffic, let alone vehicle traffic. Never the less, compaction is very important for the sake of radiation protection. You need compacted soil to stop radiation, and the denser the material, the more protection. Concrete is very dense, and provides great protection, lead is even more dense, and of course provides more protection, loose soil...not so much. Keep up the great work.
Pretty amazing, peaty can even eat a few more doughnuts...
It wouldn't matter
He went on the ball of 1 foot for the non compacted but not for the compacted and used 2 feet for the compacted, thus about 5 times more pressure on the non compacted. Not an accurate test. You can see that compacted still wants to crush if he used the same amount of pressure
What about a poured concrete under and surrounding the culvert? Would this offer more protection/stability?
if you do it right. see other comments i've replied to.
What about removing moisture inside the Atlas Survival shelter? Moisture even from peoples breath can cause condensation. How do you remove the moisture?
The bad air is pushed out when clean air comes in.
Road Center, Road Commission, Dept of Roads? Same?
You have a shelter? What is it like
I want one
Ron how deep? Grand solar minimum protection ...
Are you selling this abroad too?
Yes.
Good
Ill just do a gentle push.. Adds entire body weight so much so he is worried about breaking the glass...
What about sled outs
Is the shipping and installment cost included in the price?
No. That depends on what size bunker ? How deep ? What sort of ground your digging into ?
Have been looking into these shelter types for weather issues... but, now re-thinking as I see that protection from foreign sources may also be a necessity? Please tell me I'm not seeing things : Seeing Russia increase a military presence along its borders, and now Sweden informing their citizens to know how to prep... ruclips.net/video/YCAJofc4ajM/видео.html --- has got me thinking I'm either seeing things incorrectly or...
What about earthquakes ? Is there any test or data about that too ? I mean in california it might be a important question.
Your biggest concern in this context would be be soil liquefaction, this is most likely to occur in uncompacted, moderately saturated, granular soils. Since it's probably not cost effective to change the soil type, your best protections against this are good drainage to keep the surrounding soil relatively dry and soil compaction. If you're particularly concerned you might want to excavate down a few feet below the base and put the soil back in 6-12 inch lifts, compacting each layer ideally to 95% but at least to 90% of the modified proctor density (ASTM D1557). And make sure you have good drainage, keeping the soil around your underground structure relatively dry is probably the best thing you can do.
Granted, most my knowledge is related to underground culverts, not bunkers, but I don't see why the same principles wouldn't apply.
@@costakeith9048 compactionis anyway very important of course. ..but why a cementation of the complete bunker this should also help against to much water like they do with a tunnel
@UC1vlJ_PjZAIP_gCZSNZWyfg thx i just need do more research about underground construction technique. Till now i just liked the bunker design and even researched the air system.
Bir tanesini ayağının ucuyla basıyor güçlü bir şekilde öbürüne ayağının ortası ile basıyor o yüzden edilmedi öbüründe çakıl taşı çoktu öbüründe çakıl taşı yoktu
but isn't that shelter too small for a person to live in?
While the principle is accurate this test is bogus. Watch where the ball of his foot is on the "smashed" pipe versus the flat foot approach of the tamped pipe.
If one concrete it in what will happen?
I wander what is the max earth quark it can withstand
Making shelter radarr resisted
you posted twice
Virtually all road tunnels installed under hills, mountains and rivers are tubular in design, that alone should tell you something about strength levels.
try telling that to the competitor lol
Beauty shchshelter
Where does poop in bunkers go to
Septic tank !
When you transport these shelters, do you tarp them for anonymity so nosy people like neighbors and passersby's don't know what's underneath? I'd rather outsiders not know what I'm doing.
Nope no tarps to big and we come in the dark usually
Where does that poo go lol
goes in the septic of into a composting toilet
@@AtlasSurvivalShelters thank you I was curious where all the drain water from showers and toilet went
Great video!!!