Co2 Laser Improvement With A Laser Bed Square and T-Squares - CNC Co2 Laser Machine
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- Опубликовано: 3 янв 2019
- This is an improvement video for creating a laser bed square and t-squares for the red & black Co2 chinese laser (x700 / redsail). It can be adapted to your machine by changing sizes and axis origins etc. I’ve included the instructions for how I made this below. For reference I have included the time markers so you can go back and check things or skip to sections that interest you.
Laser Cutting Resources - amzn.to/2RNNCUj
Start by placing masking take on the laser bed at the lowest corner you want to put the square on, then set the laser to cut at the edge of both axis, in my case this was x0,y500 (see video 0:29)
Using your design program draw up a ruler for the x axis (see video 1:10)
Use this tape line as a guide to set the board that will form the square on - placing y axis edge 25mm past the x0,y500 point. (see video 1:51) and commence cutting at a fast speed low power, just enough to mark the board but not cut through
Using your design program draw up a ruler for the y axis (see video 2:27)
Using the tape line as a guide to set the board that will form the square on - placing x axis edge 25mm past the x0,y500 point. (see video 2:45) and commence cutting at a fast speed low power, just enough to mark the board but not cut through
Now place the board with the x0,y500 point close to the corner of the two axis rulers (see video 3:15)
Now drill and screw the board to the laser bed (see video 3:44)
The next step is to cut out the board leaving the new square in place. - Using a rectangle the maximum size of your cutting area (in my case 700x500mm) cut this out starting at x0,y0 (see video 4:28) You can cancel the job once the two side cuts have been made, or you could change this and make it a right angle cut rather than a rectangle.
(see video 4:50) now you can place pieces along the edges and know they will be square to whatever axis you place it along. The square also provides a visual guide to the cut area without needing to guess where the outer edge of the cut area is.
(see video 5:06) Next you can design your own T-squares for use on the bed. These are useful for placing pieces on the cut area away from the outer cutting area edge. (see video 6:10)
For example a circle of 100mm in diameter. Use the square to create intersection and position the laser head in the origin corner. Place the circle against the square. (see video 6:13
I demonstrate using a 100 mm circle with another circle inside and text in the centre. The outer circle is set not to cut or carve. (see video 6:40)
WOW … 100,000+ Views on my most popular video, this is a milestone I’d like to thank my subscribers and viewers for. This is a big achievement for me and I hope to continue making videos you want to watch and enjoy. I’d love to hear from you with any comments or suggestions for future videos. Looking back I can see how this channel has evolved from using cheap cameras to new hardware and software. I’m still learning so if there is stuff you like let me know, the same goes for stuff you don’t like and would help with future productions.
Cheers Matthew
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Хобби
brilliant
thanks
Matt, I noticed today I outlined an object, but when I filled it, some of my fill lines came out of the outline by a half mil. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Using 80w and lightburn. Thanks buddy
Sorry I missed this comment earlier - busy times here :)
Check out this video ruclips.net/video/ublaZ1s7dPo/видео.html
It may solve your issue. Cheers Matt
So, I got my 60W Blue and Gray laser setup and calibrated this past weekend and wanted to make one these edge alignment guides. For what ever reason, my laser won't even start a cut if I have it set to cut along its limits. I have a Ruida 6442 and using RDWorks, Is there a setting I need to change? When they use terms like "Is Blowing" for air assist, I may have over looked it. Thanks
it could be just that you have the starting origin set incorrectly for the job you are cutting. you can email for further assistance to askmatt@mwlaser.com.au
I purchased the blue and white Chinese 80 watt laser. So far, I have not got it working for several reasons. 1) water pump didn't work out of the box2) can't get corel draw/laser to talk to the M2Nano board.I have purchased the Cohesion 3d board and lightburn software (hopefully it will arrive on Friday).My question is, I have the same wire bed as you, but mine is loose, did you permanently mount yours? Otherwise I could see it moving after you've done this work.
That's bad news that you are having issues with your machine. Hope it works well for you soon.
No my table came fixed in place it doesn't move around at all.. I do plan to look at options remove it at a later date and install a better system.
Cheers Matt
Thanks for the info, keep posting vids, they are informative.Ray
Can I use perforated metal sheet for co2 laser bed?
But the issue it has more area and less holes!
So laser will touch the bed more often!
Will that be an issue?
you can but it will most likely result in ablated material and smoke coating the bed, so you will need to clean it more often. reflections may also mark the backside of the material being cut if not raised off it.
What type of wood and thickness wanting to try this
I used 3mm thickness
Why would you not first screw the wood onto the bed and then etch the rulers and make the cut all in one run? This would be so much more accurate.
because the ruler's final position is outside the engraving and cutting area
Buying an aluminum 24" squre and screwing it to the bed frame will work just as well I think. Lot less work
The bed on chinese lasers is not square, and it doesn't have the same inner frame size as the actual laser working area. This would lead to an imprescise placement of said aluminium pieces. Letting the laser cut it out, you ensure the frame corresponds to the actual laser working area.