A Perplexing 1940's Bodice Style // Drafting With Added Fullness
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- Опубликовано: 26 апр 2023
- Oh okay, it's actually quite easy to draft I promise! Don't let this one fool you, the dart fullness will not be enough to get us to this one.
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Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
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Need to make a block pattern? There are many options, and I talk about several in this playlist! : • Making a Bodice Block ...
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.3dcartstores.com/Pa... (not sponsored)
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching! 
Хобби
Last time I was this early a woman wool coat cost $30.00.
Today I have finally finished my basic bodice block! So many mock ups but worth it I hope, my body doesn’t work well with commercial patterns and I’ve been so disappointed with various patterns not working out. This one might be on my list to try but I’m going to start out easier with a wrap back top lol. Wish me luck, and thank you so much for such valuable content.
Edit: Also my brothers cat fig loves to play kill the hand under the blanket
Best of luck!
Well done and good luck!
Wishing you all the luck!!
All the best wishes 🍀
You are killing it with these pattern drafting videos!! I never would've attempted sewing let alone drafting without your vids! Thank you!!
Thank you!!
Always so interesting. In French we would say that you are « a gold mine of informations » - you give me confidence in trying more complex patterning witchery. Love listening to your videos while working. 🫶
That idiom works for English too :)
Merci!! Thank you so much! ❤
What a flattering pattern and so timeless and classy.
Thank you Connie!
Thank you so much, I can now make my own patterns. I have watched so many videos on bodice blocks but you are the only one who has taken the time to detail everything. I love watching all your videos, please don't stop.
Thank you Wendy!
I hope Oliver always loves Whose Hand Is Under The Blanket. We have an 18 year old baby (Anubis) who has arthritis and cataracts, and WHIUTB still entices him as it did when he was a kitten (go go Solensia!!). He gets poofed out after about 10 seconds of attacking, but it's cute af and a joy to watch.
Cuties 😊❤
I love how you make it so simple and so "doable". You actually say "you can totally do this" without saying it.
You can do it indeed!!
While you were working on the Blue Patterning Table of Doom I was mentally trying to do the same thing but with my favourite pivot 'n' slide method, and my brain nearly exploded. I think if I were actually doing the work the risk of explosive damage would be lower, but a short-circuit or six might be on the menu.
As I've said before, I'm so looking forward to retirement - so I can fry my brain on purpose with fun stuff.
Great pattern draft! Thank you for teaching. And we call the cat game Blanket Monster. Rawr!
Thank you Shelly!
The closing music was so lovely! I get positively mesmerized by watching you manipulate your bodice pattern to make it look totally other. I've noticed that while I am at a function, I'm mentally taking apart people's clothing to see how it was made and what could be done to make it drape their form better. I also like the double line of basting. We were taught that only one line was necessary. It was sooo annoying when that basting thread 💔 broke! Thank you for helping me throw stupid sewing rules aside.
I am looking forward to seeing you soon and learn more about your trip. Blessings on you (scratching post) and your cats (the scratchees)!
🔭🎩📚🫖🐈⬛🖖🕊☔️
Thank you! Then there was me in school where you lost points if you /didn't/ use two lines for gathering 😂 The rules vary too wildly
I love it when you show us your process for breaking down a style into its various components, it makes it easier for me to imagine how I might make a very different garment but with a similar neckline/yoke/bust shape/etc. Your videos help to train my eye 😍
Since you mentioned nails and such - I love the way you mix some unexpected elements into your generally-femme look. The new hair is an excellent example (it looks fab on you!). I love mixing different "gendered" elements into a look, tweaking things away from the expected womanly presentation, and when I see it on other people (a) I read it as a little flag of queerness, and (b) it's pretty hot. As a mid-40s woman married to a dude, it's so easy for me to fly under the queer radar, whether I want to or not. Including little masc tweaks in my look is like a personal affirmation to myself that all is not as it seems 💜
I hope you had a wonderful time in London and ate your share of macarons!
Thank you!! I am excited to play with short hair for a bit ✨ I keep my nails bare for practical reasons, and as a tiny little flag as you say indeed 💕
@15:16 Love how your mind works!!🤯 and that you walk us through the process to achieve such a look!! We are totally in your Zone!! Happy travel btw😎🤙
Thank you Sandy!
Welcome home, Bianca 😻😻😻. I just Love that design!!! Thank you. 😻😻😻
We all look forward to seeing and soaking up every tidbit you can share with us. 👍😻👍
Thank you Dolores!
This is almost so perfect. Nicole Mackay is wearing this wonderful teal jacket in her My Vintage Sewing Pattern Collection video . The back is straight, and the front is gathered from the collar to the sleeve. I have been trying to puzzle out the drafting of this. Yeah, I see. Slash and spread the outer edges of the shoulder and sleeve seam. Thank you!
Love the new haircut!
Thank you!
You do a great job explaining the pattern drafting - I don't even sew (yet) but everything you show makes sense even to a non-sewer. I would really like to try making a bodice block as I never cared very much for patterns, I like more free form styles where you can fit the garment to your own specific body type.
Thank you Susan!
I got so giddy when I saw the upload! :3 These drafting videos are my absolute favourite! I love your new haircut btw, Bianca! Cheers from Norway :)
ikr!❤the new hair cut is so perfect *chef kisses
Thank you!!
You have managed to demystify quite a tricky looking bodice style . Thank you once again for sharing your expertise and placing pattern designing and drafting into the realms of a rank amateur like me. P.S. I hope you enjoyed your time in London Lots of love from the Nortn East of the UK.
Thank you Valerie!
So feminine 🌺🌺🌺🌺 love it. Thank you for ideas and really big job you had done.
Thank you!
While watching Mrs Maisel I could help but imaging the pattern and catalog where each of the darts were. Imaging how things go together is definitely something I am learning from you
You are a magician! This is lovely. So many possibilities. Thank you for your videos!
Thank you!
I'm really enjoying seeing how additional fullness is used! It's nice to see how this compares to gathering that only uses dart fullness. Thank you for another interesting video ☺
Thank you Molly!
Thank you for another excellent tutorial. The result looks great! Rest well and get some quality time with the cats. I can’t wait to hear about your London trip!
Thank you Laurel!
Girl you have been a godsend! I am really loving these drafting videos since I'm somewhat of a beginner. Well, not quite a beginner, I did go to a fashion high school in NYC but that was in the 80's and I vowed NEVER to look at a sewing machine again. But here I am trying it out again and loving it. Go figure. Anyway, THANK YOU.
You are an absolute magician & fascinating to watch ❤
Thank you Christine!
Thanks for sharing older styles that prove you can look cool without seeming naked or overly branded. -I just use transparent polish with a hint of sparkle because when it starts chipping it still looks ok.
That style is seriously cute! 😍 Thanks for sharing, Bianca 🙏
Thank you Mara!
I'm convinced drafting sewing patterns is sorcery
I feel the same way about long nails. Easier to create and live with short nails. This is informative for sure. I always wondered why they don't get more creative with clothes today but this video answers that question. Designers are lazy. Lol hugs
This would be great in a knit, it’s just adding fullness & style lines, magical indeed
First, I love your haircut. (Settles in to watch)
Hope you enjoyed your trip 😊
Your sewing machine reminds me of the one my mother had and what I learned to sew on
That blouse looks fantastic! Have fun in London!
Thank you!
I love that blouse
Happy you are back. I hope you enjoyed your trip. As you see, we are still having a rockies springtime!
Thank you! At least the trees are blooming here now ✨
I love the design, very elegant. I hope London was all you hoped for.
Thank you Caroline!
Thanks so much for these 40s videos! My goal is to make myself a dress for next year’s Noir City. Really enjoying seeing your explanations of the various styles.
Noir City? What is that and where is it please?
Thank you! Film Noir forever ✨
Thanks, Bianca! Another slam dunk!
Love that zone!!!!!!
Because of your videos I am pretty confident in figuring out the pattern from a picture! Even if a specific explanation isn't immediately clear like you often mention, your videos in aggregate really helped me how to think about patterns and how to figure things out. However, I still am still terrible at making the pattern fit my body, it would be lovely if you could explain more about fitting/mockups.
I'm glad the designs can untangle for you! I'm afraid I am no fit expert becuase I have only ever fit myself, so I am only good at fitting my own self if that makes sense. Fitting the basic block is the key, then anything made from it always fits after that. It took me 7 mock ups to get my basic block as I liked, but it was worth it!
Love it! Like you can see the way the pattern goes, I do the same thing with quilt patterns. Now thanks to your fantastic demonstrations I am starting to see how to do it with clothes. Thank you! You are doing such a great job! Hope you have a blast in your travels!
Thank you Cyndy! I need to make a quilt but I'm nervous 😅
Hardest part is getting started! I am sure you do very well and love it!
You HAVE to make this into a dress!!!!! xxxxxxx
This looks fun and also /fun/. Buy the way it looks does turn out lovely. Thank you for sharing ❤
Yet another awesome video! You are a great teacher. Thank you so much for these videos. I very much appreciate them. I hope your trip was super fun and you got done much needed time off, maybe did some writing... At minimum i hope you rested.
Thank you! Sadly the last thing I did was rest but onnnnee dayyy 😬❤
So very flattering on you.
Yes please! Thank you!!!
Susan Khalje Couture sells real glass headed Japanese pins, I bought mine many years back and I am still using the ones that I have not lost along the way
Nice! Thank you❤ being able to look at a picture and figure out how to achieve it is an awesome skill. I’ve learned so much from you … not sure I would ever make it to your level, I just don’t practice enough. I have gained so much confidence though to modify patterns to suit me better. Again, thank you.
Thank you Cynthia!
Pffff everything you make looks good on you❤️👌🏼👍🏻
This design looks so flattering on you I’m obsessed🫶
Thank you! I need to make it into a rayon crepe dress sometime ✨
@@TheClosetHistorian you definitely should!!!😽
I’ve been away and missed a few vids. I love your new hair do!
That design is great. Love the asymmetrical gathering.
Hope you enjoyed your London trip.
Thank you Linda!
As always thank you for your informative explanations on how all of this sorcery works!
Thank you!
Stunning
Thank you!
that turned out beautifully
Thank you!
You are fantastic. A definite inspiration. I think I am going to use you as a muse to use up some fabric in my studio. From a fellow Coloradan, Thank you.
Thank you David!
WHEW! I've been going through all your videos this year, using them to teach me how to do drafting, and it has worked well! When the dress picture came up, I paused the video and thought about how I/you would do it... and then you did it exactly how I thought it would be done. I've already made a couple items of clothing for myself and I hope to make more next year :) Thank you for all your videos, and Happy Holidays to you and your kitties!
Good work!! and thank you 💜
Absolutely beautiful. Well done.
Thank you!
Beautiful piece!
Wow! Beautiful!! Thank you! I want to be in your zone😍of being able to dissect a design and make it for myself!👏🤩
Thank you Rebecca!
I'm playing catch-up, so if your new hairdo made an appearance earlier, my apologies for being late to say I love the short hair! The style looks really good on you. Once again, you've made something complicated seem easy. This is one I'll be making in the future, so I've saved the vlog!
Thank you!
Amazing…thanks
Magnificent as always! Just magnificent!
Thank you!
Very interesting! Hope you had a blast in London!
Thank you!
So, when you showed the design I was like 'no way, it's witchcraft and some weird shapes' but you show it in such detailed way that even I understood what's going on, and pattern drafting is definitely not my good side. Not exactly my style, but this shape looks amazing on you!
Thank you Natalia!
Beautiful
Thank you Pamela!
Love,love, love this style. You amaze me.
Thank you Heidi!
How have I only jus5 noticed this fabulous haircut?
I loooove it
Thank you!
You are such a wizard with these modifications! Thank you for sharing! ❤❤❤
Thanks Thomas!
I watched Father Brown this week and one of the actress's wore a dress like the pattern.
Brilliant video. Brilliant hair!
Thank you!
Loving the hair and of course the video ❤
Thank you Crystal!
I found some entomology pins made by Merchant and Mills for sewing and remembered that you were looking for some, thought I would let you know😁👋
I actually grabbed some while at Liberty & co. so I'll try them out!
awesome vid! awesome designing! tho... my little welsh soul every time an american seamstress calls london the capital of wool... *snarling at london* awesome video, love your voice and presentation!
I'm sure the Australians are also miffed, anywhere has better wool selection than the middle of nowhere USA 😅
So cute!
I just wanted to pipe in about the makeup thing. With numerous chemical allergies I have to be very careful with what I wear, so I understand the pain of wanting to play with makeup but a lot of the products causing discomfort. A loose powder eyeshadow like the ones from Concrete Minerals would be an excellent thing to try. Minimal ingredients so the chance of reacting is much lower. They also have an eye primer that is pretty low-allergen, though cream products are always going to be more risky than loose powders. And they have a lot of the types of colours that you like to wear, with metallics, iridescents, duo- and multichromes, and interference colours. Maybe worth a look?
Love your hair! :)
Thank you Anthony!
Welcome back! Hope your trip is everything you'd hoped it would be. I'm really excited to hear more about it and hopefully see a show-and-tell 😊
FYI, maybe it's a queer gal thing but I think short nails on ladies is really hot :)
Also, I love this tutorial! Definitely going to give it a whirl.
Thank you! I do quite like as a rather femme presenting gal to leave my nails natural, and with an undercut in my hair too I hope I can give some shred of clue that I'm actually queer 🤣💜
@@TheClosetHistorian Hahaha, I gave myself an undercut, too....Still no luck in getting the ladies to hit on me 🤣 I have straight friends with short hair who get hit on by lesbians all the time. Wth, lol
@@funkypunkypine I think if a lady hit on me I would melt with joy 🤣Just from feeling seen alone ha!
I can do the same, I find myself doing with my favorite old movies
Now I need one in black😅
Excellent video as always! Are you going to the Coronation by chance?? x's lj
At least B can say they can't be bothered to grab the ruler (or clapper) even if she's looking at it. Mine has usually simply disappeared itself into the table. For the third or fourth time in an hour.
"Mine (ruler) is sitting right here but that's still too far for me to go" 😂😂😂 100%-why measure when you can 👀?
I like the circle thing going on. Would this be something you may color block?
You certainly could color block this yes!
Would like to complement your hair, you look amazing ! ( as usual) have a great day miss.
Thank you!
For random reasons, we just call the blanket game "favorite game" XD
Hi Bianca, welcome back😊 Hope you do take your time to rest. Just wondering, does the armscye in Pattern piece B get changed? Does the sleeve head have to be changed to match? Sending best wishes from Down Under 💚💚📚📚🐈🐈⬛💐🌸🌺🇦🇺😎
Thank you Rhonda! The stitching line of the armscye doesn't change measurement, so the sleeve would still fit in this finished bodice no problem ✨
Mouse under the covers is the game name
When changing to the v neck, would you need to add seam allowance to hem the edges, or would it need a facing? With all the gathering I’m not sure if/how a facing would work… thanks!
I would do a facing on each side of the neckline separately is all! I'll try and make this design up as a dress and show what I mean soon!
This pattern will work beautifully on you. However, I am much smaller on the right side due to surgery. It will not work for me. I avoid V necked shirts, blouses, sweaters, t-shirts, and dresses; because, they V-necks twist to the left side of me. Thank you for this video and lesson.
did you add a gathering on the back side to match the front? If not, that would look nice I think.
You certainly could yes!
🇨🇦😃
I've been continuing to see 'the walk away dress' challenge and keep seeing failures because the fit is so bad in spite of it being a wrap dress. I would love to see how to pattern it so that it actually had a chance to fit.
I have had many requests and the video is coming this summer 😂✨
Can anyone explain how you might make this a full-length blouse? Any advice is much appreciated
You could add on a waist to hip peplum sorta extension like I show in this video: ruclips.net/video/hVywMU9Yg-A/видео.html Or elsewise widen the side seams a little and simply extend the length as much as you'd like down over the hips ✨
@@TheClosetHistorian welcome back!
This question must have been answered so many times before, but what is the fabric used for mock ups? Muslin or mousseline? Does someone have a link to the fabric type? Thanks so much
I prefer to use a light to medium weight cotton muslin, which is an unbleached 100% cotton plain weave fabric with no stretch. I like Mood's out of convenience because I'm usually on their site browsing brocades anyway 😅❤ www.moodfabrics.com/5-yards-of-unbleached-44-cotton-muslin-305201 But I also grab it from Joann when I need some asap!
@TheClosetHistorian thanks! Found the Dutch version of it: pitjeskatoen haha. I have been viewing some of your videos and am super motivated to start pattern drafting. I am 6 foot 2 so nothing fits in one go if you can imagine. Thanks for sharing your skill and taking the time and effort. It is truly inspiring. Big hug from Holland.
wow far more complicated than it first looks
Too hard for me! But interesting to watch.
Lovely- you are always so good at explaining things! Could you pretty please do a video on adding specilaty collars to a block like a pussy-bow or a sailor collar? 👉 👈👉👈😘
that's really a nice design on you, can't wait to see what you will do with this!!✂🪡🧵🎨
Thanks Marcco!