Thank you very much as your instructions successfully restarted my dead instrument cluster. Given that Toyota has discontinued making many of its instrument clusters (such as the one in my car), I anticipate that you'll continue to receive many messages of thanks.
you probably dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend lately =)
Wow, it really works! Thank you so much; it’s a big help. I was driving without it working for almost 4 months. Finally, it’s working thanks to your RUclips tutorial video.
Thank You very much for that Exemplary vid With much experience knowledge ! You saved me big searches Don't have a manual with schematics Great quick fix for now
I've been having the same exact issue on an 02 V6 Camry. Now I initially assumed it was a fuse. By wiggling the ECU-B fuse (top left) the speedometer would work. Only until I'd turn the engine off. After repeating the fuse trick several times, it quit doing the trick. After spending hours figuring out the wire diagram of my car, I realized that it simply cannot be a wire somewhere because the same wire feeding the speed gauge also fed other functions that actually worked. Eventually I did what you are showing and it worked. But again, only until I turned off the car. The next morning, same issue.... Going to buy a new speedometer cluster now.
+Yev Zakharov I drove mine for months with a dead cluster, since the rest of the car was falling apart. Again, it logged no mileage during that time. For gas, like I explained, my regular driving schedule generally caused me to refuel every 2 weeks, so just doing that prevented me from running out. Of course I had to be mindful about other trips with the car since of course all of them use fuel. The one thing I wanted to do but did not attempt, was to try to fix the cluster using a heat gun. Sometimes re-cooking the chips on the back can cause faulty ICs to start working again, I've fixed many laptops using that same procedure. I opted to also get a replacement cluster, which I got from a junkyard. A few things you need to be aware of: 1. When you get the replacement cluster, the needles may not be at zero. This may or may not be cause for concern (I got a cheap one first from ebay that did not work as the gauges were faulty). 2. When you install the new cluster, even if the gauges are zero, they might read erroneously when plugged in for the first time. Once you turn the key on to the run position, my gauges went haywire for a short time (about 1 full second, but it seems like an eternity), and then all went down to zero, and then the gas gauge and temperature gauge went to their approximate levels. 3. The replacement cluster's gauges may read differently than they did with the original cluster. The temperature gauge on the new cluster read about half a bar higher than it did with the old one, but never rose from that position. So it read a drop higher, but that was the norm for that gauge. The gas gauge may do the same thing, I didn't notice any appreciable difference between the two. 4. I called several junkyards first to make sure they had the item, and several of them asked "how many miles?" The mileage will obviously be different. Should you get lucky and end up with lower mileage, so be it. Those of course can fetch more money than a higher-mileage one. If you don't care, and/or are never going to sell the vehicle, you might save a few bucks with a higher-mileage one. Of course higher mileage might also lead to an earlier failure of the replacement cluster, but that's not set in stone, as there's no approximate lifespan we know of for these clusters (in other words, yours shouldn't have died either).
Mine is around 215k in fact I just did an oil change. Ive been looking at Car-Parts website for some and found a few. It's cheaper than places like eBay. Thanks for your very quick response, it's one thing many RUclips channel owners don't do a good job of. Ill keep your points in mind when installing the new cluster. As for the mileage, well, I just record the original and do the math from then on. I would never sell my car and lie about the mileage, but of course telling the buyer that the mileage is actually lower (if the replacement is older) would be a persuasive issue.
Yev Zakharov Sure no problem. I make it a point to read and respond to every single comment on all of my videos, as soon as possible. I do it for that exact reason--you've seen thousands of videos and usually the uploader is nowhere to be found in the mess of comments. Some people have questions they want answered, sometimes I can provide more information than was presented in the video, that's why I do it. Thanks for watching; if you have any questions let me know!
Dude THANK YOU! I just finished watching your video. And I was getting frustrated with this. But thanks to your video I just did the same thing and it worked so again. Thank you for your video.
Thank you for the amazing video about the temporary fix. I had the extact same problem with my 2002 Camry in the past week. Thus, I was thinking of the possible cause of the problem, and believe that it is the connector’s problem due to the large swings of temperature. So I decided to follow your suggestion of heat-gunning the connector (the female part, in particular). I used my hairdryer to blow dry of both parts of the connector, and the problem is gone. Thank you!
Maybe you can help me, but would a bad Instrument Cluster on a 1999 Camry cause problems to the interior fuse box? I have no power to the entire left side of my interior fuse box under the driver side.
The 4MHz Crystal is bad, just need replace it, when remove power it go to factory mode and let it work for awhile, with the scope you can see the crystal is not running.
Are the replacement clusters interchangeable between 3.0L and 2.4L models? I noticed the part numbers are different for each engine type, 83800-06650 (3.0L) & 83800-06640 (2.4L).
Thanks. I had this problem yesterday. I checked the fuses and they were all good. After that, I followed your instructions and it worked. Is there any relay too that I should have examined (There is a reference to 'Accessory Relay' in some other forum... that may be bad...but I was not able to locate it)
Not that I know of. The cluster just goes bad. If the problem happens again you can play the unplug and replug it game for as long as you like, but to fix it you'll need to get another cluster from a junkyard. Mileage won't match of course, but there are people out there who can reprogram the chip in the cluster if it bothers you that much.
Can it be done like a simple work removing instrument cluster from USA 2005 Miles camry and replacing it with canadian 2005 kilometres camry instrument cluster?
Thank you for the amazing video! I have the same exact problem with my 2002 Camry. The repair shop guys said i needed to go to the dealership and purchase a new $500 cluster ... Question for you. Is is true that there is no programming involved in installing the new cluster (mileage accuracy does not matter to me)? Do you recommend getting the exact year and model's cluster? Thank you!
That's correct, there is absolutely no programming, it's plug-and-play. WARNING: When you plug it in and first turn the key on the gauges will do some weird stuff. They may read erratically, they may peg at the highest they can go, but everything should clear up within about 2 seconds. Then everything is initialized and it should work exactly like the old one. The mileage on the new cluster will read whatever it read in the car it was taken out of. The mileage can be reprogrammed, but that requires taking apart the cluster, desoldering the chip, and reprogramming it on a computer. You can ask the junkyard guys if they have one close to the mileage your old one read. I got lucky with my "new" cluster, it only read about 4,000 more miles than the car actually had. Another strange anomaly I had: the temperature gauge didn't quite read the same. On the old cluster it always read one bar below the center. The new cluster it reads dead center. I switched the clusters back to check, the new one reads higher for some reason. Minor inconvenience.
Is there any obvious damage inside of the defective cluster? I am hoping that there may be a replaceable component inside of the cluster, so I don't have to replace the entire cluster.
Stanward Oshiro I opened the old cluster and didn't see anything abnormal. My next step was to try heat-gunning the chips on the board and see if that would reflow solder (I've done that successfully with other PCBs), but I got rid of the car before then. The cluster not working was the last straw with that car. I got rid of it, I highly suggest you do the same if you have the awful 2AZ-FE engine. A replacement cluster was about $50 from a junkyard.
Yes very concise and to the point, I think it will generalize to my Toyota Highlander 2001 crossing my fingers about the instrument cluster being as easily removable. I scanned through all the comments and have a better idea of what the range of problems might be i.e. mechanical loose connections, solder joints and corroded surfaces, water inundation, seems like originating problem is not resolved as is noted the problem is recurrent. Will try various fixes and precautions...Thanks Jaykay18
Thank you very much for such a well presented clip. It worked fine for me too.. I checked all the fuses but all were good. Was wondering what next when I found this clip. And it helped. Wonderful.
So on the Toyota forum one guy stated that after so many miles the soldering connections will corrode and or work loose. He went in and using a soldering iron just touched each connection. Careful not to allow solder to run from one connection to another. It solved his problem. My 01' Land Cruiser (with 320k miles) speedometer stopped registering and I got check engine light. The code was the P0500 vehicle speed sensor. There are two on this model. One is the primary the other is backup plus some other functions. I replaced the one noted as the primary and check engine light went out. However the Speedo didn't register and eventually light came back on. I then replaced the second one with a new sensor no change. So I am going to try the solder solution next. From some of the descriptions of issues here it sounds like the soldering joints may be the problem. I'll let you know. Thanks for this video though.
The check engine light on this one was P0420, Catalytic Converter. Sounds to me it's possible you might have another problem with the vehicle rather than the cluster. The cluster is simply an output device that lets you know speed, gas, tach, temp, etc. The vehicle has no idea that it's there or working. Does yours ding with the key/seatbelt chime? If it does it's not the cluster. If it doesn't, try the reset procedure. I did inspect the circuit board on the old cluster with a magnifying glass and certainly didn't see any bad solder joints. I got rid of the car (too many problems with that blasted 2AZ-FE engine, horrible crap) since then, but the new owner put a new cluster in which is working fine. I did have aspirations of cooking the board with a heatgun, but never did; it's possible there were bad solder joints I could not see.
Hello. The steps you mentioned are very detailed and informative. I have an issue with my 2002 Camry where all the gauges are dead, like the engine temperature, engine RPM, Speedometer and the Fuel gauge. The gear lights, door lights all work though. Now, if I disassemble the panel, remove the wires from the back and then connect them back in they will start working. However, the next time I try to switch on the car and the gauges are dead. If I keep repeating this step of removing the panel and reconnecting the wires, the gauges again start working. Any idea what to do in this case?
Good day sir.. How about if only the speedometer of the 2005 3.0V V6 is not working..?. The tacho, odo and temperature gauge are all working..is it the the dashboard or the speed sensor is defective?
Generally, that would indicate a problem with the VSS, Vehicle Speed Sensor. There should be an accompanying check engine light and code in the P0500 range (P0500, P0501, P0502, etc.) that would also indicate that. Also--to verify--you say the odometer works. Drive a few miles, does it increment, or just shows the last known mileage? Because if it does increment, and you have no check engine light with said code, there could be a problem with the instrument cluster.
jaykay18 thanks for the video, but my problem is just speedometer not working what do you suggest, I would appreciate any help. thanks you. If it is my speed sensor I am having a heck of a time locating it, I can't find any videos that show the location.
Typically if you had a speed sensor issue, you'd get a Check Engine light and when read out, you'd get a P0500 code (vehicle speed sensor not working). So if you're not getting that code, chances are it's just the speedometer that stopped working. Try the reset procedure first. It's possible it's just a loose wire. Remember, the car has no idea if the speedometer is working or not, as the speedometer is simply an output device. Kind of like a printer that's out of ink or toner, the computer will send the job, the printer will go through the motions, but there's nothing on the page. The computer has no idea if the paper printed correctly.
Yes, mine works until you shut it off …then you have to do it again. just wondering, if you put some of that dielectric grease on the connector will that maybe fix it more??? I guess I’m wondering if that grease will just ruin everything 😢
thank you so much, you gave me an idea by resetting it the way you did on my 2005 honda civic and my speedo is now working, i had the exact same problem like you.
You can try to reflow or fix the inner circuitry of parts like the odometer and sometimes it will work, but often your oddball cabin electrical trouble will stem from a leaking windshield seal swamping something in the inside dash or firewall. If you have had your windshield replaced, it will almost always be a hack job by a flybynight that lasts a year if you're lucky. They usually use the cheap old butamin tar adhesive and put the old seal back in instead of what the manufacturer calls for, pocketing the difference. Feel around under the carpet and on the firewall, and the area to the right of the foot pedals for wet spots an hour or two after a good rain. It's hard to tell in the winter, but the smell will let you know in the summer.
As luck would have it, the windshield on this car was replaced by a qualified shop, and I watched them do it. There were no leaks since the windshield was replaced back in 2014, still to this day, 5 years later. A possible reflow would fix it, but I ended up finding one in a junkyard that was only $40 and the mileage was only 5,000 miles difference.
That's not what this video is about. However, you could have inadvertently adjusted the dimmer control for the lights. Sometimes the dimmer control goes bad, perhaps that's the problem.
I'm starting to get another car cause my camry is having hard shifting and it jolts only early in the morning when I shift it into gear. And I replaced my instrumental panel. It's working ok so far except the odometer it's not reading correctly. And it uses oil and I have to add coolant at times cause I heard of the issue of having stripped head bolts. But going to get another camry but like a 2000.
Excellent idea. This car was a piece of junk. The wife has a 2000. Very slow, but rock solid engine. It has a timing BELT, so you'd probably want to replace that unless the previous owner can produce documentation showing the mileage it was replaced at. I replaced my 02 with an 07, but the V6. I will NEVER buy another 4 cylinder car again. It's a completely different experience, and I highly suggest it. Gas mileage is comparable, I've gotten as high as 28 on it. It runs much smoother and has endless amounts of power if you need it.
So I just resolved my speedometer & odometer issue. It turned out to be the gear that attaches to the no.1 sensor. I had voltage going to the sensor but no way to determine if signal voltage was coming out so I changed out the sensor. When I picked the new gear at the dealership I knew that was my problem and it was. It is a full 3/16" larger diameter than the original. After 320k miles it had finally worn out. So I should be good for awhile. Thanks for the video and info you provided.
@@jaykay18 Ok. Thanks. My speedometer stopped working after I replaced the battery. I pulled the instrument cluster and unplugged the cable. The speedometer is working now. Thank you!
I know this is 5 years old but I have the same issue with my 04 camry. Your video was very helpful. I was wondering if you learned anything else about this? If the cluster works fine once it is reset, I don't understand why it needs to be replaced? Maybe it is due to my limited knowledge of auto electronics. In the computer world you can't get around a bad HD or other component just by rebooting.
That's exactly what you're dealing with. There's some failing component on your instrument cluster. If yours works, and continues to and doesn't fail, you can leave it alone. Otherwise, if you have to reset it every single time like I did, you're probably want to replace it.
Thanks. It has to be reset every time. I am looking into having it repaired for approx. $160. So far that is my best option for the $. The ones on ebay are probably hit or miss.
I ended up giving this car to my dad, and as a condition of doing so, I had to get a replacement. I went to a junkyard, and got one that only listed 10,000 more miles than the original, for $40. Look into that before spending 4 times the amount on fixing a broken one.
Same thing happened to mines last week. I'm getting one off of ebay that they program the miles. For right now, I have to keep resetting it like you did for it to work. It's a pain to do everytime when all the cluster gauges go down but I have to do it. I had told them to set the miles ahead of the current miles I have. So when I get it, I can get the miles I had estimated to be when I get it.
Provided the replacement cluster works, you should be all set. A replacement cluster out of a junkyard car fixed mine, and I got lucky as the mileage was pretty close.
@@jaykay18 Mileage doesn't matter much if the car is more than maybe ten years old. Generally, past a certain age, there is no legal requirement that the odometer reflect the actual mileage. At most you might be required to disclose this information to a buyer, but you should do that anyway. Most of the time, someone who is buying an old car is only concerned that it runs. If someone says they don't believe you what the true mileage is, they're just trying to get money off the price.
@@anonymike8280 That's why real equipment has an hourmeter; that plus mileage would be a great indication of how the car is. In this state (NY), mileage is important for insurance purposes, NYS inspection purposes, and if a car is to be bought or sold. But you are correct that the reading doesn't necessarily have to be truthful. High-level scan tools can read deeper into the computer which does store the actual mileage.
Soon as I shut off the key, dead again. One video just says cut one of the wires. I thought cut one and install an in line relay that disconnects briefly on each start. Comments?
I bought a replacement cluster from a junkyard that was within 5,000 miles of the original odometer reading. Cost $40. If you do know of the wire to cut, you can power that relay from the accessory fuse. When you crank the engine, it will automatically cut power to that, effectively resetting the cluster. I don't think it would screw anything up per se. But if it's a 4-cylinder model, the engine is going to blow real soon, just like this one did a month ago. Those 2AZ-FE engines were not known for reliability, only problems.
I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon which today the speedometer and the odometer intimately stopped working I park the car I turn the key off and on four or five times and all of a sudden it started to work I went about 4 miles and it stopped working when I got home I did the same thing I turn the key on and off a few times and the odometer came on it didn't log any miles in a 20-mile trip it stayed at the same I have two hundred and seventy thousand miles on there what do you think should I try to pull it cluster out and play with the plug in the back please I would like your advice
What a relief. I was about moving to another electrician to check for me since the one I contacted couldn't fix it. Again, I have some questions, 1. what is the source of this problem?, secondly, why can it not be fixed through repairs. As a computer professional, I think it might be a component failure or there is a trigger that comes down after 10mins or a memory loss.
Olajire Ademola I'm not actually sure about the answers to any of your questions, but I can certainly give you an educated guess: First let me say I have since gotten rid of this car, not only because of this, but because of severe engine AND transmission problems. If yours is a 4-cylinder, I suggest you do the same! The writing is on the wall for these, it always has been, we just didn't know it when they were new. Look at the forums to see what I mean. 1. I do not know the source of the problem, but I do know it's limited to the instrument cluster alone, and not the rest of the vehicle. I subsequently replaced the instrument cluster and it's been working fine since, even for the new owner. 2. It probably can be repaired. Most likely it is a component failure on the board. If it's an IC that's completely dead, my best guess is that it's a proprietary IC, and the only place you're going to find one is in another instrument cluster. I had toyed around with the idea of reflowing the components on the board, but was so fed up with the car I just drove with a dead instrument cluster. I have fixed many computer motherboards by simply using a heat gun, and a good 90% of them continue to live. There are many different ways to reflow boards, some use ovens, I use a plain $10 heat gun, held on high about an inch from each component for a good 45 seconds. Remove heat, don't bump the table, wait 5 minutes, then do the next one. Good luck with the repair; I seem to remember the replacement was about $40 from a junkyard, and the one I ended up getting was only 4,000 miles different from what the original would have read.
Did this guy just suggest a way you could commit fraud?! Also, most cars store the mileage in the ECU as well as the cluster. You may not be able to see the difference, but it's there. You need a dealer tool to see it.
At 2:53, I specifically stated that I did NOT say that. You are the first one to suggest that the mileage may be stored in the ECU and that a dealer scan tool would be needed to read it. First and foremost, if you're selling the car privately, whatever the cluster says is going to be the mileage. If the car is off-lease and goes back to the dealer to be resold, I'm pretty sure they're never even going to verify the 2 numbers match unless they might have reason to believe something's fishy. Someone I knew once had a Chevy Blazer that went way over the mileage with an electronic cluster, he found some guy to reprogram it to display a reasonable number within mileage limits, and got away with it.
Because I took my off and hits it on my lap put it back it start working the next day same problem I have to hits I t gain to work so if I buy a new cluster would that work fine
Sounds like something might have gone awry with the starter replacement, such as trying to disconnect its cables without disconnecting the battery cables first. I'd give it a shot with the reset like I showed here. You might also get lucky trying to reset it with the key on, but there's also a chance you could blow the entire instrument cluster, so try that as a very last resort before replacing it.
will it work on a 06 ford everest? all the problems you had there are all present in my everest. no tach, no odo, no temp no fuel. such a pain in the a**. btw thanks for the vid. very nice.
I don't drive a Ford because my fear was a problem like this would happen. Little did I know Toyota dropped the ball on this '02 in many different areas. I honestly do not know if it will work on your vehicle. I would recommend you start by checking fuses. The easiest way I found was to meter them with an ohmmeter. I set one up on the seat to be metered, then I just taped down the meter leads close enough together that I just had to touch the fuse down and it would touch the probes, instead of playing with it each time. I went fuse-by-fuse, take one out, test, if good put back, until I was done with the entire panel. After that, then you can pull the cluster. I have no idea if it will be as easy as this one was. Good luck. If you need to replace it, you can ask at the junkyard for one close to the original mileage you had. The replacement for mine was 4,000 miles over what the original one read, so it was pretty close.
Is there anything else that could possibly be besides the cluster? Cuz I just swapped mine out for a different one and I still have the same problem. it wasn't a brand new one tho.
It's the cluster. Chances are the vehicle that cluster came out of was bad. While unlikely, it's possible you have a dodgy connector on the wiring harness in the car. Try wiggling the connector in at an angle.
Hello my 02 camry instrument cluster lights stopped coming on , do I need a new instrument cluster ? Or is there a way I can get the bulb changed . I can’t see dash clock at night
You mean the backlighting for the gauges at night? What about your dimmer control, is that turned all the way up? Could also be a bad dimmer. Could be a blown fuse. Could be any number of things, you need to meter it all out first. I do not know on this cluster how it is backlit. I always though they used some sort of CCFL or LED bulb but I'm not certain. On the previous generation Camry they used regular incandescent bulbs but I'm not sure on this one.
Yeah, you have to check everything else out. I don't know what the cluster uses for lighting. It's possible there are replacement lights for it. I haven't looked as I replaced the cluster, but as shown, I had a different problem.
@@jaykay18 it has to do nothing with that.Actually I swapped those seats to other vehicle now I just want to know that whether I can run that function with direct 12V supply or not and where?
@@amitojdhanju706 So you acknowledge you're asking in the wrong place. You need to run 12V to those seats. a heavy gauge cable from the battery, fused, with a switch and relay, ultimately switched via the key, is how you'd like it done. As for how to do that, if you have experience wiring up stuff in cars, you;ll have no trouble. If you don't, this is something you shouldn't attempt.
The heat is a separate thing entirely. Does the blower work? Check fuses. The servo motors that control the dampers and heater control valve are electric also, if you have blown fuses that would cause them not to work.
My 2004 camry does this my dash and heater and radio do not work. but I also notice that the airbag sensor is still on when it should disappear after a few seconds. It usually sorts it self out after restarting once or twice or more.
+Brandon MacEachern Yeah, I know what you mean! You've got to take the good with the bad though. Like you saw, it's literally 30 seconds to rip that thing out. If you're a thief you can do it even faster. They can have mine, it still doesn't work. It's only there for show. In fact at night when the lights are on it won't even illuminate unless reset first. I've inspected the board for weak solder joints but found none. I've toyed around with the idea of heat-gunning it, I've had good luck reflowing boards and chips with that. If I get another one, I will definitely heat-gun this one.
My car was hit. The check door light stays on. My battery is new. I was gone the weekend. Now it's dead. That is the only light that won't shut off. Help.??
Two things you can do: 1. Test the door switch, if that will shut off the light, see if you can glue something to (what's left of) the door so it'll press it when it's closed. 2. Remove the cluster, take it apart, and remove the bulb.
Anyone know if this could interfere with starting and getting the shifter out of park? I have different lights out on the cluster: the gear and the odometer don't work.
Shouldn't interfere at all. Getting out of park is simply a mechanical issue, has nothing to do with electronics, unless the brake solenoid is failing, but you can circumvent that by popping the cover and sticking a screwdriver in there.
Experiencing something similar to this, but the ac controls and tail lights are not working either. Nor is the seat adjuster since it’s electric. But the vehicle I have in question is a Toyota Sequoia, both systems are real similar though, just fuse s positioned a bit differently. Basically all of the electricity in the interior isn’t working. All fuses and relays checked, all good. All checked for continuity. Next step will be this, starting to believe the instrument cluster completes most of the circuits in the interior hence why the majority of it isn’t working.
Nah, they wouldn't feed those circuits through the instrument cluster. The cluster is an output device, like the monitor on your computer. You can turn the monitor off, the computer will keep doing its thing. Essentially, the car doesn't care whether there's an instrument cluster or not. You're probably looking at a bad BCM, or Body Control Module.
Very similar problem as my car having now. The instrument cluster lost its back lights, gauges and odometer not working. Other warning lights still functioning despite that. But besides that my car doors will randomly unlock themselves when engine is running and the auto transmission frequently won't shift. Not sure if these problems are related or not @@
The instrument cluster may be bad, but may benefit from being reset as shown in this video. As for the transmission, I don't think it's related to the cluster problem. But the doors on this car automatically lock once shifted into Drive. I don't own it anymore, but I don't think they'd unlock by themselves. Unless of course you maybe have a higher model such as an XLE, which may have incorporated that feature. Chances are very good that a mechanic will offer to remove the drain plug from your wallet at no extra cost. Good luck!
If it's just the fuel gauge, it's the fuel level sender in the gas tank that's likely bad. You're more than welcome to try this procedure first, it can't hurt anything, and on the off chance it fixes it, you've saved yourself a bundle.
Sorry for the thread revival, but anyone know where to get a new cluster? I have a 2002 V6 SE and the dealer says because my car is from Hawaii, they can’t order it. Hawaii dealer says they can’t get one either. Sent mine to get repaired at a shop in Boston and they said there’s nothing wrong with my cluster! For the record, it is the cluster because a used one I bought on eBay to test it works fine...help!
In the mainland states here, I got one at a local junkyard to replace this dead one. Mileage was only about 4000 off. Is there something wrong with the ebay one you got???
Yes, it will require some disassembly of the gauge cluster. Then the bulb likely isn't anything you can just walk into a store and buy, that would be something like an ebay purchase from China that will take 1-2 months to arrive, if it arrives at all. If that doesn't sound like something you want to endure, you can call junkyards near you and find a cluster for a reasonable $50 or so.
jaykay18 thank you so much. I think im going to go with the latter option. Trying to replace the bulb has been very difficult. Toyota wants to charge me $700. I knew there had to be a cheaper way. My car wont pass smog without the light working. You've been a tremendous help.
Sure, no problem. Just be aware that the odometer reading on the new cluster will not match the old one since it's stored in the cluster itself. You **could** theoretically swap in the replacement cluster with the good bulb for the smog check, then swap your old cluster back in after so the mileage stays within a few miles. Bear in mind, driving with a bad check engine light, you can't be warned if it should need to come on. Probably just as well; most times the car continues to run fine with the light on. Or, you could leave th cluster disconnected, drive with no gauges or lights, and not rack up any miles. Yep, they made it that easy.
jaykay18 it doesn't match anyway because i have a rebuilt engine from a 2011 camry with 88,000 miles on it. I just need it to be somewhere in the vicinity for smog retest purposes.
Around here, a lower mileage number would be a problem, but you can have a car you didn't drive for a year, that's none of the DMV's concern. Just out of curiosity, is that a 4-cylinder 2AZ-FE engine???
Jaykay18I have problem with my Camry 05My speedometer does not work Odo meter not working alsoRpm gauge is working Temp sensor is working Fuel sensor is working I wnent to computer checking I got this code p0500Speed sensor not working So I got new speed sensor and l fixed it put still same problem And same code Any solutions??Thanks
Did you disconnect the battery for an hour or so after installing the new speed sensor, or reset the computer? If not, disconnect the battery for an hour or so and try again.
sellou3000 If a scan tool is STILL reading out a P0500, you have other issues. If it's not and there are no other problems, the Check Engine light should NOT be lit. If it's not, I would try another cluster. First reset it like I show in this video, that might make it work.
This happened to me after changing Battery terminal. i was able solve the problem by disconnecting both + and -ve terminal on the battery waited for 10 min and reconnecting
Anything's fixable. It's possible you have burned out bulbs in the dash, or the switches in the transmission to turn on the lights are bad. Start by replacing the bulbs.
Definitely the connector pins being loose causing a weak connection. Then it gets hot causing too much resistance then it all cuts off. Had same exact problem with my fox body ignition switch. I suspected as much given the ability to simply reset it and it work fine, but by your wiggling alone it started working again. Hehe
@@jaykay18 new pins :D I'm hoping I can clean the contacts in mine, well my wife's. Hers died last night w me driving it. Kinda flipping out ATM lol. And those cheap door handles, broke two. Mainly worried because the car only has 150k and I want it to be able to be verified if I ever sell lol
If this car you're speaking of it a Camry, and it has the 2AZ-FE 4-cylinder engine, it won't have too many more miles in it. Besides being incessant oil burners, the threads for the head bolts pull out of the block, leading to a blown head gasket. It's gradual, so if it's caught in time it can be saved, IF you find the right guy who will drill out the block and put helicoils in.
@@jaykay18 I caught the radiator leak issue early on but I've definitely caught on to the head issue. I'm almost convinced defective radiators drip leaking catch people. My friend, same car and engine and miles, same shit radiator. But we caught ours very early luckily because I check my stuff religiously. As for the oil it puffs only at startup so maybe valve guides? Makes sense. But yeah and oh Madeline's rear main seal leaked. At 140k. So that's another thing maybe.
@@jaykay18 oh and a fan that had already been swapped by 128k and THAT one went also. Has a Subaru fan now no shit. I swapped that sucker for an outback one. They go 250k
Thank you so much. The fuses 10a looked good (I changed anyway). But did not solve the problem. So I proceeded to do exactly as displayed in the video. My Camry had been sitting for a couple weeks, and I wondered if that contributed to it. It’s working now after several stops, engine off, and starts. Thanks again. Hopefully I won’t have to re-seat it too often. Guess I will see!
The problem will only occur after the panel shuts down, which is about 10 minutes after removing the key. After 10 minutes, the gas gauge will go to empty, and the odometer display will blank. If those were still active, the instrument cluster will stay live. If, after 10 minutes, and a blanked odometer display and empty-reading gas gauge, yours continues to work, it's entirely possible there was just a bad connection in back, and you may have fixed it.
That's a great point. I had pulled and physically metered every fuse individually. Everything tested good. The problem is with the circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster. Eventually the cluster was replaced with one from a junkyard, and it was been working perfectly since.
I fully agree with you on that. I just happened to be the lucky one. Actually, scratch that, this video has over 200,000 views, so it's not as uncommon as you might think. On the other hand, if this were a BMW instead, it probably would have been 2,000,000. Actually, scratch that too, BMW drivers don't care how fast they drive, and they certainly don't care if their turn signals are on!
Thank you very much as your instructions successfully restarted my dead instrument cluster. Given that Toyota has discontinued making many of its instrument clusters (such as the one in my car), I anticipate that you'll continue to receive many messages of thanks.
Thank you.
You cut through all the bs and gave a concise, well produced video
Thanks very much!
my altezza do the same but nothing i do the gage works.only sigal and licht.abs flash and the door licht flash
Thank you I removed the instrument cluster and drove around for 200k miles and will sell the car as low miles vehicle
Just another benefit!
you probably dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch pretty much all the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend lately =)
@Oscar Davis Definitely, been using instaflixxer for since november myself =)
just my two cents here but im pretty sure removing the cluster to sell it as a low mile vehicle is illegal in the us lol
Wow, it really works! Thank you so much; it’s a big help. I was driving without it working for almost 4 months. Finally, it’s working thanks to your RUclips tutorial video.
You're welcome.
Thank You very much for that
Exemplary vid
With much experience knowledge !
You saved me big searches
Don't have a manual with schematics
Great quick fix for now
You're welcome.
I've been having the same exact issue on an 02 V6 Camry. Now I initially assumed it was a fuse. By wiggling the ECU-B fuse (top left) the speedometer would work. Only until I'd turn the engine off. After repeating the fuse trick several times, it quit doing the trick. After spending hours figuring out the wire diagram of my car, I realized that it simply cannot be a wire somewhere because the same wire feeding the speed gauge also fed other functions that actually worked. Eventually I did what you are showing and it worked. But again, only until I turned off the car. The next morning, same issue.... Going to buy a new speedometer cluster now.
+Yev Zakharov I drove mine for months with a dead cluster, since the rest of the car was falling apart. Again, it logged no mileage during that time. For gas, like I explained, my regular driving schedule generally caused me to refuel every 2 weeks, so just doing that prevented me from running out. Of course I had to be mindful about other trips with the car since of course all of them use fuel.
The one thing I wanted to do but did not attempt, was to try to fix the cluster using a heat gun. Sometimes re-cooking the chips on the back can cause faulty ICs to start working again, I've fixed many laptops using that same procedure.
I opted to also get a replacement cluster, which I got from a junkyard. A few things you need to be aware of:
1. When you get the replacement cluster, the needles may not be at zero. This may or may not be cause for concern (I got a cheap one first from ebay that did not work as the gauges were faulty).
2. When you install the new cluster, even if the gauges are zero, they might read erroneously when plugged in for the first time. Once you turn the key on to the run position, my gauges went haywire for a short time (about 1 full second, but it seems like an eternity), and then all went down to zero, and then the gas gauge and temperature gauge went to their approximate levels.
3. The replacement cluster's gauges may read differently than they did with the original cluster. The temperature gauge on the new cluster read about half a bar higher than it did with the old one, but never rose from that position. So it read a drop higher, but that was the norm for that gauge. The gas gauge may do the same thing, I didn't notice any appreciable difference between the two.
4. I called several junkyards first to make sure they had the item, and several of them asked "how many miles?" The mileage will obviously be different. Should you get lucky and end up with lower mileage, so be it. Those of course can fetch more money than a higher-mileage one. If you don't care, and/or are never going to sell the vehicle, you might save a few bucks with a higher-mileage one. Of course higher mileage might also lead to an earlier failure of the replacement cluster, but that's not set in stone, as there's no approximate lifespan we know of for these clusters (in other words, yours shouldn't have died either).
Mine is around 215k in fact I just did an oil change. Ive been looking at Car-Parts website for some and found a few. It's cheaper than places like eBay.
Thanks for your very quick response, it's one thing many RUclips channel owners don't do a good job of.
Ill keep your points in mind when installing the new cluster. As for the mileage, well, I just record the original and do the math from then on. I would never sell my car and lie about the mileage, but of course telling the buyer that the mileage is actually lower (if the replacement is older) would be a persuasive issue.
Yev Zakharov Sure no problem. I make it a point to read and respond to every single comment on all of my videos, as soon as possible. I do it for that exact reason--you've seen thousands of videos and usually the uploader is nowhere to be found in the mess of comments. Some people have questions they want answered, sometimes I can provide more information than was presented in the video, that's why I do it. Thanks for watching; if you have any questions let me know!
Thanks for the video. I was able to reset my speedometer in 2 minutes thank to you.
Excellent! Great job! Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for the well made, to the point video, saved me a whole lot of troubleshooting
You're welcome.
Thanks for your Knowledge ,also applies (so far ) to a 2003 Avalon . Saved me a PILE
Thanks for the additional info!
Dude THANK YOU! I just finished watching your video. And I was getting frustrated with this. But thanks to your video I just did the same thing and it worked so again. Thank you for your video.
You're quite welcome.
Thank you for the amazing video about the temporary fix. I had the extact same problem with my 2002 Camry in the past week. Thus, I was thinking of the possible cause of the problem, and believe that it is the connector’s problem due to the large swings of temperature. So I decided to follow your suggestion of heat-gunning the connector (the female part, in particular). I used my hairdryer to blow dry of both parts of the connector, and the problem is gone. Thank you!
You're very welcome--glad this helped you out. I hope your instrument cluster keeps working after heat-gunning it!
Maybe you can help me, but would a bad Instrument Cluster on a 1999 Camry cause problems to the interior fuse box? I have no power to the entire left side of my interior fuse box under the driver side.
No, the instrument TAKES power from there, it doesn't supply it. Not related at all.
The 4MHz Crystal is bad, just need replace it, when remove power it go to factory mode and let it work for awhile, with the scope you can see the crystal is not running.
Where’s that located
Not everyone can do board-level repairs. This cluster, and this car, are long gone.
Are the replacement clusters interchangeable between 3.0L and 2.4L models? I noticed the part numbers are different for each engine type, 83800-06650 (3.0L) & 83800-06640 (2.4L).
I don't believe they are. The tach is calibrated differently, that's for certain.
Thanks. I had this problem yesterday. I checked the fuses and they were all good. After that, I followed your instructions and it worked. Is there any relay too that I should have examined (There is a reference to 'Accessory Relay' in some other forum... that may be bad...but I was not able to locate it)
Not that I know of. The cluster just goes bad. If the problem happens again you can play the unplug and replug it game for as long as you like, but to fix it you'll need to get another cluster from a junkyard. Mileage won't match of course, but there are people out there who can reprogram the chip in the cluster if it bothers you that much.
Can it be done like a simple work removing instrument cluster from USA 2005 Miles camry and replacing it with canadian 2005 kilometres camry instrument cluster?
Generally not, they may be calibrated differently.
Thank you for the amazing video! I have the same exact problem with my 2002 Camry. The repair shop guys said i needed to go to the dealership and purchase a new $500 cluster ...
Question for you. Is is true that there is no programming involved in installing the new cluster (mileage accuracy does not matter to me)? Do you recommend getting the exact year and model's cluster?
Thank you!
That's correct, there is absolutely no programming, it's plug-and-play. WARNING: When you plug it in and first turn the key on the gauges will do some weird stuff. They may read erratically, they may peg at the highest they can go, but everything should clear up within about 2 seconds. Then everything is initialized and it should work exactly like the old one.
The mileage on the new cluster will read whatever it read in the car it was taken out of. The mileage can be reprogrammed, but that requires taking apart the cluster, desoldering the chip, and reprogramming it on a computer. You can ask the junkyard guys if they have one close to the mileage your old one read. I got lucky with my "new" cluster, it only read about 4,000 more miles than the car actually had.
Another strange anomaly I had: the temperature gauge didn't quite read the same. On the old cluster it always read one bar below the center. The new cluster it reads dead center. I switched the clusters back to check, the new one reads higher for some reason. Minor inconvenience.
Is there any obvious damage inside of the defective cluster? I am hoping that there may be a replaceable component inside of the cluster, so I don't have to replace the entire cluster.
Stanward Oshiro I opened the old cluster and didn't see anything abnormal. My next step was to try heat-gunning the chips on the board and see if that would reflow solder (I've done that successfully with other PCBs), but I got rid of the car before then. The cluster not working was the last straw with that car. I got rid of it, I highly suggest you do the same if you have the awful 2AZ-FE engine. A replacement cluster was about $50 from a junkyard.
Thanks So Much...this video just saved me and my dashboard is working well. 👍🏿
You're welcome.
Thank You so much my Cluster was dead now my cluster is working thank man :)
No problem.
Yes very concise and to the point, I think it will generalize to my Toyota Highlander 2001 crossing my fingers about the instrument cluster being as easily removable. I scanned through all the comments and have a better idea of what the range of problems might be i.e. mechanical loose connections, solder joints and corroded surfaces, water inundation, seems like originating problem is not resolved as is noted the problem is recurrent. Will try various fixes and precautions...Thanks Jaykay18
You're quite welcome, best of luck!
Thank you very much for such a well presented clip. It worked fine for me too.. I checked all the fuses but all were good. Was wondering what next when I found this clip. And it helped. Wonderful.
You're welcome.
So on the Toyota forum one guy stated that after so many miles the soldering connections will corrode and or work loose. He went in and using a soldering iron just touched each connection. Careful not to allow solder to run from one connection to another. It solved his problem. My 01' Land Cruiser (with 320k miles) speedometer stopped registering and I got check engine light. The code was the P0500 vehicle speed sensor. There are two on this model. One is the primary the other is backup plus some other functions. I replaced the one noted as the primary and check engine light went out. However the Speedo didn't register and eventually light came back on. I then replaced the second one with a new sensor no change. So I am going to try the solder solution next. From some of the descriptions of issues here it sounds like the soldering joints may be the problem. I'll let you know. Thanks for this video though.
The check engine light on this one was P0420, Catalytic Converter. Sounds to me it's possible you might have another problem with the vehicle rather than the cluster. The cluster is simply an output device that lets you know speed, gas, tach, temp, etc. The vehicle has no idea that it's there or working.
Does yours ding with the key/seatbelt chime? If it does it's not the cluster. If it doesn't, try the reset procedure.
I did inspect the circuit board on the old cluster with a magnifying glass and certainly didn't see any bad solder joints. I got rid of the car (too many problems with that blasted 2AZ-FE engine, horrible crap) since then, but the new owner put a new cluster in which is working fine. I did have aspirations of cooking the board with a heatgun, but never did; it's possible there were bad solder joints I could not see.
Any updates ?
Hello. The steps you mentioned are very detailed and informative. I have an issue with my 2002 Camry where all the gauges are dead, like the engine temperature, engine RPM, Speedometer and the Fuel gauge. The gear lights, door lights all work though. Now, if I disassemble the panel, remove the wires from the back and then connect them back in they will start working. However, the next time I try to switch on the car and the gauges are dead. If I keep repeating this step of removing the panel and reconnecting the wires, the gauges again start working. Any idea what to do in this case?
I'd suggest you rewatch the video, but pay attention. ALL OF THAT WAS COVERED.
same happened to my car to. it works only one time then stopped again.
please share it to me if you sort it thanks.
@@lookxas4583 I had to purchase a used cluster panel and it has been working fine so far.
Perfect video, thank you!
You're welcome.
Good day sir.. How about if only the speedometer of the 2005 3.0V V6 is not working..?. The tacho, odo and temperature gauge are all working..is it the the dashboard or the speed sensor is defective?
Generally, that would indicate a problem with the VSS, Vehicle Speed Sensor. There should be an accompanying check engine light and code in the P0500 range (P0500, P0501, P0502, etc.) that would also indicate that.
Also--to verify--you say the odometer works. Drive a few miles, does it increment, or just shows the last known mileage? Because if it does increment, and you have no check engine light with said code, there could be a problem with the instrument cluster.
jaykay18 thanks for the video, but my problem is just speedometer not working what do you suggest, I would appreciate any help. thanks you. If it is my speed sensor I am having a heck of a time locating it, I can't find any videos that show the location.
Typically if you had a speed sensor issue, you'd get a Check Engine light and when read out, you'd get a P0500 code (vehicle speed sensor not working). So if you're not getting that code, chances are it's just the speedometer that stopped working.
Try the reset procedure first. It's possible it's just a loose wire. Remember, the car has no idea if the speedometer is working or not, as the speedometer is simply an output device. Kind of like a printer that's out of ink or toner, the computer will send the job, the printer will go through the motions, but there's nothing on the page. The computer has no idea if the paper printed correctly.
Yes, mine works until you shut it off …then you have to do it again. just wondering, if you put some of that dielectric grease on the connector will that maybe fix it more??? I guess I’m wondering if that grease will just ruin everything 😢
If you have it on hand, it can't hurt. But I don't think it's going to help anything. The problem is internal to the instrument cluster.
@@jaykay18 thanx, yess I understand fully… you are so helpful! Thanx again… sub✅
@@itshimhim2837 No problem--and thank you for the sub!
thank you so much, you gave me an idea by resetting it the way you did on my 2005 honda civic and my speedo is now working, i had the exact same problem like you.
That's great to hear Clayton!
You can try to reflow or fix the inner circuitry of parts like the odometer and sometimes it will work, but often your oddball cabin electrical trouble will stem from a leaking windshield seal swamping something in the inside dash or firewall. If you have had your windshield replaced, it will almost always be a hack job by a flybynight that lasts a year if you're lucky. They usually use the cheap old butamin tar adhesive and put the old seal back in instead of what the manufacturer calls for, pocketing the difference. Feel around under the carpet and on the firewall, and the area to the right of the foot pedals for wet spots an hour or two after a good rain. It's hard to tell in the winter, but the smell will let you know in the summer.
As luck would have it, the windshield on this car was replaced by a qualified shop, and I watched them do it. There were no leaks since the windshield was replaced back in 2014, still to this day, 5 years later.
A possible reflow would fix it, but I ended up finding one in a junkyard that was only $40 and the mileage was only 5,000 miles difference.
That's an argument for using one of the national chain glass shops. Also, you will get premium grade glass.
I just want to say Thank you!!
You're welcome.
yes jaykay18 just like you said the check engine is on, don't know about the code but I will go through the procedure. Thanks again for all your help
Let me know what happens.
Thank you so much. I just changed the battery and this happen. Did what you said and it worked great. Thanks.
You're welcome.
My issue is that the light on my instrument cluster is very faint and the dashboard lights is totally off how do I fix it?
That's not what this video is about. However, you could have inadvertently adjusted the dimmer control for the lights. Sometimes the dimmer control goes bad, perhaps that's the problem.
I'm starting to get another car cause my camry is having hard shifting and it jolts only early in the morning when I shift it into gear. And I replaced my instrumental panel. It's working ok so far except the odometer it's not reading correctly. And it uses oil and I have to add coolant at times cause I heard of the issue of having stripped head bolts. But going to get another camry but like a 2000.
Excellent idea. This car was a piece of junk. The wife has a 2000. Very slow, but rock solid engine. It has a timing BELT, so you'd probably want to replace that unless the previous owner can produce documentation showing the mileage it was replaced at.
I replaced my 02 with an 07, but the V6. I will NEVER buy another 4 cylinder car again. It's a completely different experience, and I highly suggest it. Gas mileage is comparable, I've gotten as high as 28 on it. It runs much smoother and has endless amounts of power if you need it.
Thanks man. It helped a lot. Good information…👍🏼
No problem.
So I just resolved my speedometer & odometer issue. It turned out to be the gear that attaches to the no.1 sensor. I had voltage going to the sensor but no way to determine if signal voltage was coming out so I changed out the sensor. When I picked the new gear at the dealership I knew that was my problem and it was. It is a full 3/16" larger diameter than the original. After 320k miles it had finally worn out. So I should be good for awhile. Thanks for the video and info you provided.
No problem, glad this helped you out.
How did you change the gear?
Instead of pulling the instrument cluster and unplugging the cable, can you reset the instrument cluster by pulling and replacing the fuse?
Nope, I tried that first, and also disconnecting the battery, this was the only way to make it work.
@@jaykay18 Ok. Thanks. My speedometer stopped working after I replaced the battery. I pulled the instrument cluster and unplugged the cable. The speedometer is working now. Thank you!
@@ospuddy You're welcome.
I know this is 5 years old but I have the same issue with my 04 camry. Your video was very helpful. I was wondering if you learned anything else about this? If the cluster works fine once it is reset, I don't understand why it needs to be replaced? Maybe it is due to my limited knowledge of auto electronics. In the computer world you can't get around a bad HD or other component just by rebooting.
That's exactly what you're dealing with. There's some failing component on your instrument cluster. If yours works, and continues to and doesn't fail, you can leave it alone. Otherwise, if you have to reset it every single time like I did, you're probably want to replace it.
Thanks. It has to be reset every time. I am looking into having it repaired for approx. $160. So far that is my best option for the $. The ones on ebay are probably hit or miss.
I ended up giving this car to my dad, and as a condition of doing so, I had to get a replacement. I went to a junkyard, and got one that only listed 10,000 more miles than the original, for $40. Look into that before spending 4 times the amount on fixing a broken one.
Huraaaaa mine worked thanks for the video
You're welcome.
Same thing happened to mines last week. I'm getting one off of ebay that they program the miles. For right now, I have to keep resetting it like you did for it to work. It's a pain to do everytime when all the cluster gauges go down but I have to do it. I had told them to set the miles ahead of the current miles I have. So when I get it, I can get the miles I had estimated to be when I get it.
Provided the replacement cluster works, you should be all set. A replacement cluster out of a junkyard car fixed mine, and I got lucky as the mileage was pretty close.
@@jaykay18 Mileage doesn't matter much if the car is more than maybe ten years old. Generally, past a certain age, there is no legal requirement that the odometer reflect the actual mileage. At most you might be required to disclose this information to a buyer, but you should do that anyway. Most of the time, someone who is buying an old car is only concerned that it runs. If someone says they don't believe you what the true mileage is, they're just trying to get money off the price.
@@anonymike8280 That's why real equipment has an hourmeter; that plus mileage would be a great indication of how the car is. In this state (NY), mileage is important for insurance purposes, NYS inspection purposes, and if a car is to be bought or sold. But you are correct that the reading doesn't necessarily have to be truthful. High-level scan tools can read deeper into the computer which does store the actual mileage.
thank you I will try that first and thank you for your fast response I will let you know what happens thanks again
OK.
Soon as I shut off the key, dead again. One video just says cut one of the wires. I thought cut one and install an in line relay that disconnects briefly on each start. Comments?
I bought a replacement cluster from a junkyard that was within 5,000 miles of the original odometer reading. Cost $40.
If you do know of the wire to cut, you can power that relay from the accessory fuse. When you crank the engine, it will automatically cut power to that, effectively resetting the cluster. I don't think it would screw anything up per se. But if it's a 4-cylinder model, the engine is going to blow real soon, just like this one did a month ago. Those 2AZ-FE engines were not known for reliability, only problems.
I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon which today the speedometer and the odometer intimately stopped working I park the car I turn the key off and on four or five times and all of a sudden it started to work I went about 4 miles and it stopped working when I got home I did the same thing I turn the key on and off a few times and the odometer came on it didn't log any miles in a 20-mile trip it stayed at the same I have two hundred and seventy thousand miles on there what do you think should I try to pull it cluster out and play with the plug in the back please I would like your advice
I would pull the cluster and try reseating the connectors. If the problem persists, the cluster will need to be replaced.
Maybe you can isolate a few pins (power, gnd?) on the connecter and add a switch on the dash to "reset" the cluster easily?
bob g Brilliant idea, if I only had a pinout!!!
What a relief. I was about moving to another electrician to check for me since the one I contacted couldn't fix it. Again, I have some questions, 1. what is the source of this problem?, secondly, why can it not be fixed through repairs. As a computer professional, I think it might be a component failure or there is a trigger that comes down after 10mins or a memory loss.
Olajire Ademola I'm not actually sure about the answers to any of your questions, but I can certainly give you an educated guess:
First let me say I have since gotten rid of this car, not only because of this, but because of severe engine AND transmission problems. If yours is a 4-cylinder, I suggest you do the same! The writing is on the wall for these, it always has been, we just didn't know it when they were new. Look at the forums to see what I mean.
1. I do not know the source of the problem, but I do know it's limited to the instrument cluster alone, and not the rest of the vehicle. I subsequently replaced the instrument cluster and it's been working fine since, even for the new owner.
2. It probably can be repaired. Most likely it is a component failure on the board. If it's an IC that's completely dead, my best guess is that it's a proprietary IC, and the only place you're going to find one is in another instrument cluster. I had toyed around with the idea of reflowing the components on the board, but was so fed up with the car I just drove with a dead instrument cluster. I have fixed many computer motherboards by simply using a heat gun, and a good 90% of them continue to live.
There are many different ways to reflow boards, some use ovens, I use a plain $10 heat gun, held on high about an inch from each component for a good 45 seconds. Remove heat, don't bump the table, wait 5 minutes, then do the next one. Good luck with the repair; I seem to remember the replacement was about $40 from a junkyard, and the one I ended up getting was only 4,000 miles different from what the original would have read.
Did this guy just suggest a way you could commit fraud?!
Also, most cars store the mileage in the ECU as well as the cluster. You may not be able to see the difference, but it's there. You need a dealer tool to see it.
At 2:53, I specifically stated that I did NOT say that. You are the first one to suggest that the mileage may be stored in the ECU and that a dealer scan tool would be needed to read it. First and foremost, if you're selling the car privately, whatever the cluster says is going to be the mileage. If the car is off-lease and goes back to the dealer to be resold, I'm pretty sure they're never even going to verify the 2 numbers match unless they might have reason to believe something's fishy. Someone I knew once had a Chevy Blazer that went way over the mileage with an electronic cluster, he found some guy to reprogram it to display a reasonable number within mileage limits, and got away with it.
It's not stored in the pcm, bcm, tcu on this car it is only stored in the cluster. The OP has learning disabilities no one mentioned fraud.
Because I took my off and hits it on my lap put it back it start working the next day same problem I have to hits I t gain to work so if I buy a new cluster would that work fine
Tell me what it said in the first 15 seconds of the video.
My 02 camry tachometer is stuck at 8, would resetting it resolve the issue or a fuse? This happened the same day I got the starter replaced
Sounds like something might have gone awry with the starter replacement, such as trying to disconnect its cables without disconnecting the battery cables first. I'd give it a shot with the reset like I showed here. You might also get lucky trying to reset it with the key on, but there's also a chance you could blow the entire instrument cluster, so try that as a very last resort before replacing it.
will it work on a 06 ford everest? all the problems you had there are all present in my everest. no tach, no odo, no temp no fuel. such a pain in the a**. btw thanks for the vid. very nice.
I don't drive a Ford because my fear was a problem like this would happen. Little did I know Toyota dropped the ball on this '02 in many different areas.
I honestly do not know if it will work on your vehicle. I would recommend you start by checking fuses. The easiest way I found was to meter them with an ohmmeter. I set one up on the seat to be metered, then I just taped down the meter leads close enough together that I just had to touch the fuse down and it would touch the probes, instead of playing with it each time. I went fuse-by-fuse, take one out, test, if good put back, until I was done with the entire panel.
After that, then you can pull the cluster. I have no idea if it will be as easy as this one was. Good luck. If you need to replace it, you can ask at the junkyard for one close to the original mileage you had. The replacement for mine was 4,000 miles over what the original one read, so it was pretty close.
ok. thanks a lot. i'll just do what you have said and hopefully it works.
Brian Taylor Best of luck to you!
Is there anything else that could possibly be besides the cluster? Cuz I just swapped mine out for a different one and I still have the same problem. it wasn't a brand new one tho.
It's the cluster. Chances are the vehicle that cluster came out of was bad. While unlikely, it's possible you have a dodgy connector on the wiring harness in the car. Try wiggling the connector in at an angle.
Hello my 02 camry instrument cluster lights stopped coming on , do I need a new instrument cluster ? Or is there a way I can get the bulb changed . I can’t see dash clock at night
You mean the backlighting for the gauges at night? What about your dimmer control, is that turned all the way up? Could also be a bad dimmer. Could be a blown fuse. Could be any number of things, you need to meter it all out first.
I do not know on this cluster how it is backlit. I always though they used some sort of CCFL or LED bulb but I'm not certain. On the previous generation Camry they used regular incandescent bulbs but I'm not sure on this one.
jaykay18 okay thanks for for ur time , maybe I should change my dimmer or get a new cluster
jaykay18 Do you think Led lights could be changed just like incandescent bulbs ?
Yeah, you have to check everything else out. I don't know what the cluster uses for lighting. It's possible there are replacement lights for it. I haven't looked as I replaced the cluster, but as shown, I had a different problem.
Hi dude,would you help me out with wiring of the seats,I can't find how I can run and use heated function of the seats
Not sure what this has to do with the instrument cluster?
@@jaykay18 it has to do nothing with that.Actually I swapped those seats to other vehicle now I just want to know that whether I can run that function with direct 12V supply or not and where?
@@amitojdhanju706 So you acknowledge you're asking in the wrong place.
You need to run 12V to those seats. a heavy gauge cable from the battery, fused, with a switch and relay, ultimately switched via the key, is how you'd like it done. As for how to do that, if you have experience wiring up stuff in cars, you;ll have no trouble. If you don't, this is something you shouldn't attempt.
Does this makes the heat work as well. This happened to me after replacing my starter. But I have no radio and heat
The heat is a separate thing entirely. Does the blower work? Check fuses. The servo motors that control the dampers and heater control valve are electric also, if you have blown fuses that would cause them not to work.
jaykay18 my car as well is having the same problem my whole front cluster and a/c and radio is dead as well i need advice please
Gaby Lopez did you find any solutions?? My car just did the same thing as yours last night
@@LovelyStoner I'm having the same problem. How did you fix?
My 2004 camry does this my dash and heater and radio do not work. but I also notice that the airbag sensor is still on when it should disappear after a few seconds. It usually sorts it self out after restarting once or twice or more.
Excelente video!! Hice todo el procedimiento y funciono👏 gracias!!
De nada.
That car really does have an easier to pull cluster than mine. Mine is like sacrificing my first born, and I don't even have my first born yet!
+Brandon MacEachern Yeah, I know what you mean! You've got to take the good with the bad though. Like you saw, it's literally 30 seconds to rip that thing out. If you're a thief you can do it even faster. They can have mine, it still doesn't work. It's only there for show. In fact at night when the lights are on it won't even illuminate unless reset first. I've inspected the board for weak solder joints but found none. I've toyed around with the idea of heat-gunning it, I've had good luck reflowing boards and chips with that. If I get another one, I will definitely heat-gun this one.
My car was hit. The check door light stays on. My battery is new. I was gone the weekend. Now it's dead. That is the only light that won't shut off. Help.??
Two things you can do:
1. Test the door switch, if that will shut off the light, see if you can glue something to (what's left of) the door so it'll press it when it's closed.
2. Remove the cluster, take it apart, and remove the bulb.
Anyone know if this could interfere with starting and getting the shifter out of park? I have different lights out on the cluster: the gear and the odometer don't work.
Shouldn't interfere at all. Getting out of park is simply a mechanical issue, has nothing to do with electronics, unless the brake solenoid is failing, but you can circumvent that by popping the cover and sticking a screwdriver in there.
I reset my car. it worked, but it's only last one day, next day I stated the car, still got the same problem. any idea for that? thank you
If you watched the first 15 seconds of the video, or read the description, you'd have your answer.
worked like a dream lifesacer
Glad to hear, thanks for watching!
Great video duder!! Extremely informative and easy to listen to🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Thanks very much!
Experiencing something similar to this, but the ac controls and tail lights are not working either. Nor is the seat adjuster since it’s electric. But the vehicle I have in question is a Toyota Sequoia, both systems are real similar though, just fuse s positioned a bit differently. Basically all of the electricity in the interior isn’t working. All fuses and relays checked, all good. All checked for continuity. Next step will be this, starting to believe the instrument cluster completes most of the circuits in the interior hence why the majority of it isn’t working.
Nah, they wouldn't feed those circuits through the instrument cluster. The cluster is an output device, like the monitor on your computer. You can turn the monitor off, the computer will keep doing its thing. Essentially, the car doesn't care whether there's an instrument cluster or not. You're probably looking at a bad BCM, or Body Control Module.
@@jaykay18 of course, Bcm holy hell you went for the worst scenario. Those aren’t cheap.
@@pancho1682 Sounds logical though. ECMs are even more...
@@jaykay18 true.
@@pancho1682 Best of luck...
Is there a difference in the fitment for the V6 and V4 ??
Thx
Shouldn't be any difference. And for the record, it's I4, as in in-line 4. 4 cylinder engines aren't made in V configurations.
jaykay18
Gotcha.
Very similar problem as my car having now.
The instrument cluster lost its back lights, gauges and odometer not working. Other warning lights still functioning despite that.
But besides that my car doors will randomly unlock themselves when engine is running and the auto transmission frequently won't shift.
Not sure if these problems are related or not @@
The instrument cluster may be bad, but may benefit from being reset as shown in this video.
As for the transmission, I don't think it's related to the cluster problem. But the doors on this car automatically lock once shifted into Drive. I don't own it anymore, but I don't think they'd unlock by themselves. Unless of course you maybe have a higher model such as an XLE, which may have incorporated that feature. Chances are very good that a mechanic will offer to remove the drain plug from your wallet at no extra cost. Good luck!
Will try to reset it. Thanks for your amazing video and quick response.
Sure thing John, best of luck!
thanks a lot .. it worked for me ..
Glad to hear!
WHAT HAPPENED IF ONLY THE FUEL SENSOR WAS THE ONLY ONE NOT WORKING CAN I STILL APPLY SAME
If it's just the fuel gauge, it's the fuel level sender in the gas tank that's likely bad. You're more than welcome to try this procedure first, it can't hurt anything, and on the off chance it fixes it, you've saved yourself a bundle.
Thanks i have replaced the fuel gauge and it still the same i have ven changed the dashboard either i used toyota rav4 2006
Sorry for the thread revival, but anyone know where to get a new cluster? I have a 2002 V6 SE and the dealer says because my car is from Hawaii, they can’t order it. Hawaii dealer says they can’t get one either. Sent mine to get repaired at a shop in Boston and they said there’s nothing wrong with my cluster! For the record, it is the cluster because a used one I bought on eBay to test it works fine...help!
In the mainland states here, I got one at a local junkyard to replace this dead one. Mileage was only about 4000 off. Is there something wrong with the ebay one you got???
Is there a way to change the inducator bulbs for this vehicle? My check engine light bulb does not work but all the other bulbs work just fine.
Yes, it will require some disassembly of the gauge cluster. Then the bulb likely isn't anything you can just walk into a store and buy, that would be something like an ebay purchase from China that will take 1-2 months to arrive, if it arrives at all.
If that doesn't sound like something you want to endure, you can call junkyards near you and find a cluster for a reasonable $50 or so.
jaykay18 thank you so much. I think im going to go with the latter option. Trying to replace the bulb has been very difficult. Toyota wants to charge me $700. I knew there had to be a cheaper way. My car wont pass smog without the light working. You've been a tremendous help.
Sure, no problem. Just be aware that the odometer reading on the new cluster will not match the old one since it's stored in the cluster itself. You **could** theoretically swap in the replacement cluster with the good bulb for the smog check, then swap your old cluster back in after so the mileage stays within a few miles. Bear in mind, driving with a bad check engine light, you can't be warned if it should need to come on. Probably just as well; most times the car continues to run fine with the light on.
Or, you could leave th cluster disconnected, drive with no gauges or lights, and not rack up any miles. Yep, they made it that easy.
jaykay18 it doesn't match anyway because i have a rebuilt engine from a 2011 camry with 88,000 miles on it. I just need it to be somewhere in the vicinity for smog retest purposes.
Around here, a lower mileage number would be a problem, but you can have a car you didn't drive for a year, that's none of the DMV's concern.
Just out of curiosity, is that a 4-cylinder 2AZ-FE engine???
Jaykay18I have problem with my Camry 05My speedometer does not work
Odo meter not working alsoRpm gauge is working Temp sensor is working Fuel sensor is working I wnent to computer checking I got this code p0500Speed sensor not working So I got new speed sensor and l fixed it put still same problem And same code Any solutions??Thanks
Did you disconnect the battery for an hour or so after installing the new speed sensor, or reset the computer? If not, disconnect the battery for an hour or so and try again.
Yes I reset my computer put still same problem !
So they told me in that workshop
I should change the cluster
But I am not sure is it damaged or not
sellou3000 If a scan tool is STILL reading out a P0500, you have other issues. If it's not and there are no other problems, the Check Engine light should NOT be lit. If it's not, I would try another cluster. First reset it like I show in this video, that might make it work.
This happened to me after changing Battery terminal. i was able solve the problem by disconnecting both + and -ve terminal on the battery waited for 10 min and reconnecting
Sometimes it take a bit to reset. But I definitely tried that on this car. When the cluster fails, this is the symptom and there is no correction.
Help I can’t see the color when I put it in drive? Reverse & Park i can see the color.
Look at the shifter itself, it shows you there also.
jaykay18 is there a way to get it fixed on the dash ?
Anything's fixable. It's possible you have burned out bulbs in the dash, or the switches in the transmission to turn on the lights are bad. Start by replacing the bulbs.
hmmmm nice i have same problem on my Toyota corolla ee90 ( no temperature.no gas.& + no light )
i will try to reset the cable
+Rakesh Mohussur I'd be interested to hear how it turns out, drop me a line and let me know!
its work thx man and happy new year
Rakesh Mohussur No problem!
Definitely the connector pins being loose causing a weak connection. Then it gets hot causing too much resistance then it all cuts off.
Had same exact problem with my fox body ignition switch. I suspected as much given the ability to simply reset it and it work fine, but by your wiggling alone it started working again. Hehe
That's a possible explanation. I replaced the cluster (and got lucky to find one with only 6000 miles difference) and it has been fine since.
@@jaykay18 new pins :D
I'm hoping I can clean the contacts in mine, well my wife's. Hers died last night w me driving it. Kinda flipping out ATM lol. And those cheap door handles, broke two. Mainly worried because the car only has 150k and I want it to be able to be verified if I ever sell lol
If this car you're speaking of it a Camry, and it has the 2AZ-FE 4-cylinder engine, it won't have too many more miles in it. Besides being incessant oil burners, the threads for the head bolts pull out of the block, leading to a blown head gasket. It's gradual, so if it's caught in time it can be saved, IF you find the right guy who will drill out the block and put helicoils in.
@@jaykay18 I caught the radiator leak issue early on but I've definitely caught on to the head issue. I'm almost convinced defective radiators drip leaking catch people. My friend, same car and engine and miles, same shit radiator. But we caught ours very early luckily because I check my stuff religiously. As for the oil it puffs only at startup so maybe valve guides? Makes sense. But yeah and oh Madeline's rear main seal leaked. At 140k. So that's another thing maybe.
@@jaykay18 oh and a fan that had already been swapped by 128k and THAT one went also. Has a Subaru fan now no shit. I swapped that sucker for an outback one. They go 250k
It's a temporary fix, but if it keeps on working, it's permanent!
I like your way of thinking!
Thank you so much. The fuses 10a looked good (I changed anyway). But did not solve the problem.
So I proceeded to do exactly as displayed in the video. My Camry had been sitting for a couple weeks, and I wondered if that contributed to it. It’s working now after several stops, engine off, and starts. Thanks again. Hopefully I won’t have to re-seat it too often. Guess I will see!
The problem will only occur after the panel shuts down, which is about 10 minutes after removing the key. After 10 minutes, the gas gauge will go to empty, and the odometer display will blank. If those were still active, the instrument cluster will stay live.
If, after 10 minutes, and a blanked odometer display and empty-reading gas gauge, yours continues to work, it's entirely possible there was just a bad connection in back, and you may have fixed it.
What about panel’s light ?
That's a different circuit entirely, the backlighting still works.
@@jaykay18 mine is not working :/
@@muhammadwaqarsiddiqui6731 Do the gauges read at all?
@@jaykay18 yes everything working except backlight. can't see anything in night
@@muhammadwaqarsiddiqui6731 You may have a blown fuse, check all fuses first. If not, it could be a bad dimmer control.
thx bro
No problem!
did anyone try spraying a high quality contact cleaner while apart??
I didn't. But I certainly inspected every contact with a magnifying glass and they all looked brand new.
at times fuse contacts become corroded, pull and push fuses all the way in, electrical gremlins are a bitch
That's a great point. I had pulled and physically metered every fuse individually. Everything tested good. The problem is with the circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster. Eventually the cluster was replaced with one from a junkyard, and it was been working perfectly since.
v nice
Thanks.
welcome :(
sounds like a bmw issue. ive never met anyone that has had this problem with toyota. its always bmw.
I fully agree with you on that. I just happened to be the lucky one. Actually, scratch that, this video has over 200,000 views, so it's not as uncommon as you might think. On the other hand, if this were a BMW instead, it probably would have been 2,000,000. Actually, scratch that too, BMW drivers don't care how fast they drive, and they certainly don't care if their turn signals are on!