Hello, I am a new subscriber,its a old video but I have some questions regarding the small shrimp, I have this kit and I have questions, I have seen that the stufing tube is not centered and I have seen people place it on the right or on the left with the ruder placed on one side or the other I'm a bit lost But I assume the way you put it together is the right one. ??
Actually, I intentionally put it together in a mirror image of what the manufacturer suggests. My logic for this arrangement was to have the driveline offset to the right to help counteract torque and propwalk. I think the manufacturer was more concerned with the placement of the rudder. I have not seen any appreciable difference between rudder locations so I went with driveline location as my criteria for the final geometry of the boat.
@@Dr_Jet This makes sense, I also talked about this with another builder guy and he also took advantage of placing it on the right for the same reason so that's what I'm going to do I think Although this may not be necessary because I am not looking for extreme performance because I am converting this model to use a small nitro engine so obviously it will be slower
Save more weight by cutting the aluminum tube more that's inside the hull and extend the rubber tube to it. Solves more weight and clears the servo too. 😉
Because I wanted the drive offset to the right which forces the rudder to the left due to the way the transom piece(s) are made. In my experience, which side the rudder is on is not nearly as important as the location of the thrust line. Offset to the right helps counteract propwalk.
@@matthewwilken2051 I hear you on the larger motor thing, but I already have a similar sized rigger with a bigger motor (the Silver Bullet) so this one has no need for motor swaps. It will stay with the small motor.
I use MKS L-285 MilSpec epoxy that I get from Aircraft Spruce. I use it on full-sized aircraft as it meets manufacturer's and FAA specs. The drawback is it's expensive and you have to buy huge quantities. Look for laminating resins in the 2: to 4:1 mix ratios on eBay.
Hi Dr. Jet, Thank you so much for sharing this build plan. I am following your build video Dr. Jet. Thank you very much 🙏🙏🙏😊
Hello , how do u get the hatch covers to stay in place ?
I use colored electrical tape, or any similar vinyl tape. A lot of people use hockey tape.
Thankyou
Hello, I am a new subscriber,its a old video but I have some questions regarding the small shrimp, I have this kit and I have questions, I have seen that the stufing tube is not centered and I have seen people place it on the right or on the left with the ruder placed on one side or the other I'm a bit lost But I assume the way you put it together is the right one. ??
Actually, I intentionally put it together in a mirror image of what the manufacturer suggests. My logic for this arrangement was to have the driveline offset to the right to help counteract torque and propwalk. I think the manufacturer was more concerned with the placement of the rudder. I have not seen any appreciable difference between rudder locations so I went with driveline location as my criteria for the final geometry of the boat.
@@Dr_Jet This makes sense, I also talked about this with another builder guy and he also took advantage of placing it on the right for the same reason so that's what I'm going to do I think Although this may not be necessary because I am not looking for extreme performance because I am converting this model to use a small nitro engine so obviously it will be slower
Doc what kind of a boxer are you using for that
What strut did you use?
The one that came with the original full kit.
Save more weight by cutting the aluminum tube more that's inside the hull and extend the rubber tube to it. Solves more weight and clears the servo too. 😉
I think the aluminum is lighter per foot than the silicone.
@@Dr_Jet Yup, typical modeling thin wall alloy tube is a lot lighter than typical silicone water cooling tube.
those steel tubes keep the water from going in on the sponson rods into the tub
how come you put the rudder on the left??
Because I wanted the drive offset to the right which forces the rudder to the left due to the way the transom piece(s) are made. In my experience, which side the rudder is on is not nearly as important as the location of the thrust line. Offset to the right helps counteract propwalk.
@@Dr_Jet that little 16in one i have has the motor offset to the left. i like them centered so you can use larger motors
@@matthewwilken2051 I hear you on the larger motor thing, but I already have a similar sized rigger with a bigger motor (the Silver Bullet) so this one has no need for motor swaps. It will stay with the small motor.
Oops I Meant epoxy not Boxer
I use MKS L-285 MilSpec epoxy that I get from Aircraft Spruce. I use it on full-sized aircraft as it meets manufacturer's and FAA specs. The drawback is it's expensive and you have to buy huge quantities. Look for laminating resins in the 2: to 4:1 mix ratios on eBay.
Nice 👍