Me and my brother are trying to install a Hunter ceiling fan, and we’re just very concerned with how much the ball (down rod) is moving when put into the mount. I started to think and I thought that it was made like that, but at the same time I’m not sure why it would shake so much. When we grab the fan blade housing we can easily move it, wether it be shaking it or tilting it.
Thanks for reaching out. The hanger ball should feel like it's firmly seated in place in the mounting bracket but the ball and socket type joint does allow for some movement to help the fan hang level, reduce vibration and should also help prevent wobbling. This fan moves easily when I push on even a shade glass and when the fan speed is set to the highest setting, the entire fan moves but just a little. Hope this helps and best of luck with the rest of the install!
Thank you! Good question. I still have the remote and was able to use a small screwdriver to remove the single screw on the back of the remote. The longer piece of the back plate slides down about 1/4" and can then be lifted off to see the battery. It's held down tightly by a metal plate with two feet but a small flathead or phillips screwdriver will help push it out enough for you to be able to grab and remove the battery. It's a CR2032 battery and the positive side faces up. You may have to pair the remote with the fan again afterwards. This video shows the pairing process and shows the back plate being removed as well: ruclips.net/video/MfQMYgUslIw/видео.html
@@wildcat-diy thanks for replying. I didn’t want to force anything, not knowing if it slide open or popped off. Question. After only 7 months my lights just blink on and off when using the remote. The fan is fine. Have you encountered this? A search of RUclips says it’s the current limiter whatever that is. I’ve been on hold with hunter now for 53 minutes…..
@@marciar8909 No problem, I certainly understand. I have not yet encountered that issue but the current/wattage limiter could be the problem if the bulbs in use came from the ceiling fan box or otherwise and don't exceed the max wattage (14W max for the Hunter Channing). The current limiter is a part of the wire harness kit and is in place as a safety feature to prevent the fan from overheating. If bulbs are installed that exceed the specified wattage, the wattage regulator either shuts off the bulbs or limits the wattage they receive to prevent overheating. Hunter sells a wire harness kit that sits in the lower switch housing and includes the wattage limiter and other electrical components, such as the color-coded plug.
@@wildcat-diy very helpful. Thank you so much. I am using the bulbs that came with the fan but maybe brand new ones will help. I appreciate your communications! 😎
@@marciar8909 No problem 🙂 I'm happy to help. It's definitely worth a shot. Best of luck resolving this flickering light issue! I'd be curious to know what solves the problem you're experiencing. Feel free to update me later. Also, I love your channel picture with all the cats - very cute!
the rubbers that you installed inbetween the fan blades and the support arm is not correct. they are suppose to go on top of the blades with the screws i guess. lol
Which model Hunter fan are you referring to? The blades and blade arms may connect in a different way on other Hunter models. Some connect via a snap-on method for example, which is pretty neat. The Hunter Channing fan install guide does specify inserting the rubber grommets into the fan blade holes and then securing each fan blade to a metal blade arm via provided screws.
@@wildcat-diy pause this video at exactly 1:20, the gap between your fan blades and support arm is wide i thought there should not be any gap(please confirm manual again if needed) those rubbers should go along with the screw heads at top of the blade, and not in between the blade and the support arm. by the way i was looking to buy one of these hunter fans came across your video. thanks
@@nmsbro Awesome! I've purchased a number of Hunter fans over the years and have been happy with them. I understand better now. Thank you for mentioning the timestamp. If you look back at 1:12, where there's an up-close view of the rubber grommets in a bag, you'll see that the top and bottom of each is wider than the middle portion. When they're inserted into the fan blade holes, the flared top and bottom edges are what's visible on top and underneath the fan blade. The thicker rubber end creates a gap between the blade and blade arm, even with the screw tight. It's not possible to eliminate the gap and it's ideal to have this gap to prevent parts from rubbing together, causing noise and wear. While the install guide doesn't comment on gaps in the blade installation section, Hunter defines grommets as "Rubber cushions that are inserted into the holes in the blades to reduce fan noise". This definition to me ties in with the concept of having a rubber buffer to prevent noise from friction/vibration. Hope this helps!
@@wildcat-diy thanks for such a good explanation and your time , only asked for the security doubts that blades gonna fall, and you cleared all my doubts. this will definitly help me decide among lot of their models out there, have a wonderful days ahead , beautiful voice
@@nmsbro My pleasure. I am so happy to hear that 🙂 I hope whichever fan you choose does well by you. Thank you for your kind words. I really appreciate it. May your days ahead be wonderful as well!
looks awesome.
Agreed 🙂 We like the look of it too!
@@wildcat-diy nice.
Me and my brother are trying to install a Hunter ceiling fan, and we’re just very concerned with how much the ball (down rod) is moving when put into the mount. I started to think and I thought that it was made like that, but at the same time I’m not sure why it would shake so much. When we grab the fan blade housing we can easily move it, wether it be shaking it or tilting it.
Thanks for reaching out. The hanger ball should feel like it's firmly seated in place in the mounting bracket but the ball and socket type joint does allow for some movement to help the fan hang level, reduce vibration and should also help prevent wobbling. This fan moves easily when I push on even a shade glass and when the fan speed is set to the highest setting, the entire fan moves but just a little.
Hope this helps and best of luck with the rest of the install!
Good video thanks. I actually came here to specifically see how you replace a battery from the remote but you didn’t even use the remote. Lol.
Thank you! Good question. I still have the remote and was able to use a small screwdriver to remove the single screw on the back of the remote. The longer piece of the back plate slides down about 1/4" and can then be lifted off to see the battery. It's held down tightly by a metal plate with two feet but a small flathead or phillips screwdriver will help push it out enough for you to be able to grab and remove the battery. It's a CR2032 battery and the positive side faces up. You may have to pair the remote with the fan again afterwards. This video shows the pairing process and shows the back plate being removed as well: ruclips.net/video/MfQMYgUslIw/видео.html
@@wildcat-diy thanks for replying. I didn’t want to force anything, not knowing if it slide open or popped off. Question. After only 7 months my lights just blink on and off when using the remote. The fan is fine. Have you encountered this? A search of RUclips says it’s the current limiter whatever that is. I’ve been on hold with hunter now for 53 minutes…..
@@marciar8909 No problem, I certainly understand. I have not yet encountered that issue but the current/wattage limiter could be the problem if the bulbs in use came from the ceiling fan box or otherwise and don't exceed the max wattage (14W max for the Hunter Channing). The current limiter is a part of the wire harness kit and is in place as a safety feature to prevent the fan from overheating. If bulbs are installed that exceed the specified wattage, the wattage regulator either shuts off the bulbs or limits the wattage they receive to prevent overheating. Hunter sells a wire harness kit that sits in the lower switch housing and includes the wattage limiter and other electrical components, such as the color-coded plug.
@@wildcat-diy very helpful. Thank you so much. I am using the bulbs that came with the fan but maybe brand new ones will help. I appreciate your communications! 😎
@@marciar8909 No problem 🙂 I'm happy to help. It's definitely worth a shot. Best of luck resolving this flickering light issue! I'd be curious to know what solves the problem you're experiencing. Feel free to update me later. Also, I love your channel picture with all the cats - very cute!
the rubbers that you installed inbetween the fan blades and the support arm is not correct. they are suppose to go on top of the blades with the screws i guess. lol
Which model Hunter fan are you referring to? The blades and blade arms may connect in a different way on other Hunter models. Some connect via a snap-on method for example, which is pretty neat. The Hunter Channing fan install guide does specify inserting the rubber grommets into the fan blade holes and then securing each fan blade to a metal blade arm via provided screws.
@@wildcat-diy pause this video at exactly 1:20, the gap between your fan blades and support arm is wide i thought there should not be any gap(please confirm manual again if needed) those rubbers should go along with the screw heads at top of the blade, and not in between the blade and the support arm. by the way i was looking to buy one of these hunter fans came across your video. thanks
@@nmsbro Awesome! I've purchased a number of Hunter fans over the years and have been happy with them.
I understand better now. Thank you for mentioning the timestamp. If you look back at 1:12, where there's an up-close view of the rubber grommets in a bag, you'll see that the top and bottom of each is wider than the middle portion. When they're inserted into the fan blade holes, the flared top and bottom edges are what's visible on top and underneath the fan blade.
The thicker rubber end creates a gap between the blade and blade arm, even with the screw tight.
It's not possible to eliminate the gap and it's ideal to have this gap to prevent parts from rubbing together, causing noise and wear. While the install guide doesn't comment on gaps in the blade installation section, Hunter defines grommets as "Rubber cushions that are inserted into the holes in the blades to reduce fan noise". This definition to me ties in with the concept of having a rubber buffer to prevent noise from friction/vibration. Hope this helps!
@@wildcat-diy thanks for such a good explanation and your time , only asked for the security doubts that blades gonna fall, and you cleared all my doubts. this will definitly help me decide among lot of their models out there, have a wonderful days ahead , beautiful voice
@@nmsbro My pleasure. I am so happy to hear that 🙂
I hope whichever fan you choose does well by you. Thank you for your kind words. I really appreciate it. May your days ahead be wonderful as well!
THEY COME IN WHITE 😳
🎉 I had the same reaction when I learned this week that Hunter used to make cast iron ceiling fans (Hunter Originals) that require oil.