How To Use Auto Exposure Lock - Mike Browne
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- Опубликовано: 2 ноя 2024
- AE lock or Auto exposure lock allows a photographer to take an exposure reading from one place and quickly apply it for another. Very useful for street photography, weddings or other fast moving situations when time is short.
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I slept on AE lock for nearly a decade and just barely started taking advantage of using it while shooting in aperture priority with my 5D classic- it’s made shooting soooo much more fun and intuitive than slapping the shutter speed around myself in manual mode.
It's certainly very handy in some situations...
Excellent video. Now I understand AEL
That's great - and there's plenty more where that came from :-)
So helpful and easily explained. Thank you.
Thanks again @Jo. 🙏😊
Great and very informative video thank you - mind you I can think of a few places where doing that in an underpass might get you a good beating and your camera nicked!
That is very true... luckily not on this occasion!!
I always wondered what that was for. I used to do it manually! Something new to test !
It can come in handy @Derek Trowbridge. Not saying it's the only way, it's just one way... MB🙏😊
can’t wait to try it out 😊
Have fun!... MB🙏😊
Cheers from Down Under Browny....good to hear from you mate.
Likewise buddy ... MB🙏😊
Great video. Well explained
Thank you very much.
Wonderful way of explaining things. Really awesome. Thank you so much 😊
Most welcome 😊
Thanks Mike for sharing your experience with great comments & results.....very helpful video as this action can be very handy in many different situations.... cheers from Australia 😀
Thanks @Robert Davis ... MB🙏😊
Hi Mike Browne ☺ do all cameras have an exposure lock? I have an eos R and Canon t7i?
I was just wondering if my camera has this, too. I have a rebel t6, simpler so it doesn't always have all the features. I'll check it out.
@Wisconsin Farmboy @L. Spencer - All cameras are different and I only know the ones I use. If it is it'll be a button on the body I recon. I can only suggest you google it.... MB🙏😊
Love your videos. I am new to photography and im just wondering why AE lock on the wall to your side, and not on the figure himself?
Good question @TH-ds2yx. To meter from the subject involves pointing the camera to them to do it, which might make them uncomfortable - remember this is a street photography scenario where you need to be fast and have everything ready before pointing the camera at the subject. Hope that helped... MB
@@MikeBrowne Ah, I see. Thanks so much for the response. I suppose it would still be okay to meter directly off the light on the subject then? From a practical point of view.
Thanks Mike. 1/52 sec. means will not have a blur of the subject?
@Joe Zach. It depends how fast they're moving, how much light's in the tunnel and how long gthe lens is. In this case Joe's walking pretty slow, focal length is 50mm or less, combine that with image stabilisation and there's nothing to worry about. If the lens was longer and he was running and the tunnel was darker then there'd be a problem. As photographers we have to constantly monitor these things so we're ready when opportunity presents itself. Hope this helped ... MB🙏😊
When reframing the shot on your subject, after using the AE lock, I noticed that you didn't then focus on his face to apply the lock. I thought you had to refocus when reframing to apply AE lock to whatever part of the subject you wanted. Could you clarify please?🙏
Hi @Lina Iota. Once you've locked exposure with AE Lock, it's locked into the camera, regardless of where you focus. I think you may be confusing this with spot metering. There are many different modes for both metering and focus which are covered in depth in my Masterclass In Photography course. Please try it because from your question I know there are still areas you don't feel confident about. Masterclass is 100% guaranteed so if I don't clear the confusion you get your money back. You caneven try a free sample at the link below. Hope to see you on it soon... MB
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Thanks for this tip, I never really understood what AEL was for. Why did you select P mode instead of Manual?
Thanks @Richard Smith. Because in manual mode you are have to adjust settings yourself one at a time, which is slower than using P S A combined with knowing where to lock an exposure from. In short, AE lock won't lock an exposure in manual, only in semi auto. So when you need to be quick this method can help. Not saying it's the only way, it's just one way... Hope this helped... MB🙏😊
I've always used the exposure compensation dial in situations like these (if not shooting full M). Any noted benefits to this technique other than you can just hit it on the fly without switching anything back?
Hi @Chris Edwards. Nothing that's not in the video no. It's just a quick way to get an exposure for a specific tone when shooting in a semi auto mode. Hope this helped... MB
nice job Mike
Thanks ... MB🙏😊
I subbed as soon as he said "international recognised" haha
subbed? sobbed.. not sure what you mean?! Any way I hope you liked the video...
I've always stayed away from AE Lock for the exact reason shown the video, the shutter speed went from 300 to 52. Isn't it better to have a RAW you can tweak later than a blurry / shaky picture you can't do anything with. What are your thoughts?
@JoeBlu - AE lock just locks an exposure from somewhere. It has no control over which shutter speed is used. This image isn't blurry or shaky because the shutter speed of 1/52 sec is fine for a focal length of 50mm or less. Add image stabilising to the mix and no worries. Using a longer focal length then a higher ISO would allow a faster shutter speed. These are things a photographer has to be aware of when entering differing situations so the camera is always ready. Provided someone understands the mid grey connotations of metering, AE lock is just one way to be super quick in exposing for a specific part of an image. Hope this helped... MB🙏😊
Love it! Thanks. I can't wait to try it tbh because I always underexpose people's faces :)
Thanks Leo. It's not eally an exposure fix and most of this method is about making an educated guess on where to lock exposure from. The advantage is it's quick for times like the one in this vid... MB🙏😊
what was your metering mode?
I rarely use anything other than Matrix / evaluative all over mode... MB
Most advanced cameras has manual mode, where the only auto variable is ISO. Then you can with quick dial (if programmed so) push exposure compensation up in blink of an eye. Works for me better at least. Of course any "half auto mode" does the same job if you limit the minimum shutter speed from settings to avoid motion blur.
Yep - there are many ways to reach the same result. AE lock is just one of them... MB🙏😊
Does this only work in semi auto modes?
Yes it only works in semi and 'P' modes. In manual you are responsible for setting everything. Hope this helped... MB
Good one
Thank you! Cheers!... MB🙏😊
Nice
Thanks
I understand this concept for DSLR cameras, but with mirrorless cameras, couldn't you just adjust the Exposue Compensation until you see the exposure you want in the view finder?
You could Jim, but it would take longer and chances are you'd miss the shot... MB
@@MikeBrowne Good point........thanks Mike.
❤ if you prefer the first photo
thanks
That's not the main reason for Auto Exposure Lock (AE-L). AE-L is crucial when using any mode that isn't Manual. For instance, in either of the Priority modes (Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority), after establishing focus, if you recompose without engaging Auto Exposure Lock, the camera's meter continues taking readings and wherever your camera ends up after recomposing, that's the reading the camera goes with. So AE-L is a MUST.
Certainly is if shooting spot metering, though I'd say unless the composition is changed dramatically when re-composing a big change in exposure is less likely using evaluative / matrix metering...
On some cameras you can make it so the meter is only unlocked while you are half pressing the shutter. Then you use back button focus and if you dont want to change the meter reading, just quickly press the shutter without waiting on the half press
Really didnt get it till 3:21 and wow!
Thank you Aqeeq!
From this day forward it is now known as Fifty-Tooth 3:03
Or just spot meter
Yes that's one way. You'd have to be quick and accurate to spot meter on the moving guy and make sure the reading came from that narrow strip of skin. If it came from his clothes it'd be completely overexposed because the camera would make the black grey - blowing everything off the scale...
Having a cheaper canon M50 Knowing it's limited dynamics, I worry about exposing the main subject and throwing the rest of the scene's caution to the wind.
@cowboy6591 I agree one shouldn't throw caution to the wind. And that's not what was done. It was a choice to blow background highlights into a bloom. Setting exposure for a specific part of the image can be done with any camera. Give it a go with your M50. Bet it works fine... MB🙏😊
It’s fine. But if you look at the background it’s blown away. 😢
I'm not against images looking blown out if that's what I'm going for...
Could you not just turn up the shadows when editing.
Most cameras today are more than capable if shooting in raw.
Sometimes you can - but post isn't for fixing something that's broken. To get a great final image you have to have a great original to begin with. Once you understand the mid grey connection to metering you can make an educated guess about where to lock an exposure from to achieve the result you want. AE lock is handy in situations like this when you need to be quick. ... MB🙏😊