I admire anyone that has the skills and patience to do this type of work, especially on a daily basis in a garage working on other's cars. I could not imagine choosing this as a profession, but thankfully others with the skills do. As an acupuncturist and chiropractor, I use my hands to correct imbalances in the neuromuscular system, primarily from acute injuries, or from the effects of untreated childhood sports-related trauma, but for me this provides the challenges to develop skills in observation, diagnostic systems, and then ideal treatment and preventive protocols. Thank you for sharing your mechanical skills in your videos, I am amazed both by your patience, and your skills in diagnosing and treating the common maintenance problems in my favorite truck, the Land Cruiser!
Just want to say thanks. Did the valve cover gaskets on my ‘03 Cruiser today, following your vid step by step. Some of my wiring harnesses were a bit different, but completed the job without a hitch. I bought my Cruiser new in 03, and this is the first time I did the valve cover gaskets, @284K. I truly believe that these are the best built vehicles on the planet!! Seriously, thank you!!
Amazing! Super happy to hear this was helpful for you. Cool that you’ve owned the Cruiser since ‘03 - you can really see the effect of more frequent oil changes when you get in there. Also lucky that you don’t have to remove the cams to change the cam seals - just did that job which had me questioning the VVTi :)
You have me beat Yeahmaybe (great tag!). My 05 I bought fall of 04 is still *faultless at 193k* (other than O2 sensors, typical minimal maintenance, and some rust failures). Otherwise, yes: best vehicles on the planet! Reviewing ALL your GREAT videos DIY to see what I might need to do. One thing: check the tightness of my valve cover screws! .. Makes me wonder if that's all you would have needed to do to stop your leak; tighten those up???
Hi Mike, Perhaps worth a try, but when I pulled the valve covers off, the gaskets had clearly failed. They had become stiff and a bit crumbly. I just encountered my second issue when, as I was driving, the ABS and brake idiot lights came on and a high pitch sound began to eminate from the dash area. I got out of traffic and pulled over, just as my brake pedal lost all pressure and I lost my brakes. Scary and without warning. I have a two way scanner that diagnosed my problem as a failed brake booster motor. Turns out that sound is a warning signal for failed brakes!! Like so many issues, after doing a bit of searching it turns out that this is also a relatively common problem. Parts are spendy, but the actual job of replacing the booster motor looks pretty straight forward. @@mikek5486
Once again - thank you! Not that I'll ever do this work myself, I simply don't have the tools, experience, or patience to work on car engines. Not enough room. I'm a boat person. However - you have provided me with a real-world insight into what's involved when I ask these jobs to be done on my LC and what Toyota will charge me for. Thank you! :)
After watching several of your videos, they're amazing and the level of detail great. Please do a video or answer the question on how you keep/clean/maintain your engine compartment. Thanks.
I just did this on my LX, at least on the passenger side. And to note i didn’t have the connector to disconnect in the upper right corner. My seals were so dried out it was more like plastic than it was rubber lol. 3.5hrs of cleaning sand install. I’ll do the driver’s side next I’m too old to tackle both sides in one day
Literally was doing this job today and chipped part of both my half moons as I was wiggling them out.. I was going side to side guess you gotta really just yank them upwards 04'LC 230k
Thanks for the video…..did you use any anti-seize paste on the spark plug threads? I know that helps me with removal the next time as well as getting a proper torque on them.
Just wanted to put this out there in case it helps anyone… the valve cover bolts are very commonly loose, to the point that the valve cover will leak. Most of the time they just need to be snugged back up.
+1 to Josh’s comment. The first time I did the valve cover gaskets a couple bolts were loose enough I could almost turn by hand. If just snugging back up it would be worth doing several passes around all the bolts in the star pattern. I thought these videos were useful: ruclips.net/video/D04eVLXnl1k/видео.html
Hope I don't jinx it for you, but is your starter/knock sensors due for service anytime soon? Would love to see a tutorial on removing the intake. Looks intimidating with all the hoses and harnesses. I have the printout from the FSM ready to go, but nervous about doing it.
Good question - not that I'm aware of. Next for me is replacing the cam seals and timing belt, which has me nervous as well! Good luck replacing it - make a video and post it!
Im surprised my mechanic didn't tell me about leaking VC gaskets when he replaced both Bank Knock Sensors on my '05 GX with 260k miles. Replacement of these sensors, starter, and other goodies under intake was not cheap. Im thinking about tackling this job myself once I recover from recent back surgery that I just had on 11/17/24. I've never done any major wrenching in engine bay. Mainly cosmetic stuff like new headlight housing, Garage Alpha grill with raptor lights, Floating Screen Head unit, speakers, etc. But I must say your video is very detailed in getting this job done, and once I heal in a few weeks, Im definitely going to attempt this. Working on these rigs is definitely much more entailed than working on my '70 SS El Camino I once had. Sold that bad boy many years ago not knowing of their value now. Hindsight !!! But I must say these GX's are amazing beasts for sure. Great video brother !!!
While these are known for staying pretty dry, another common place to get leaks is the o-ring at the base the engine oil dipstick tube. Unfortunately, I can't find a single video of this job despite folks on the MUD forums claiming it's not that hard. Any chance it would be something you'd consider recording?
I actually just did this and have some additional info to add. #1 I had a lot of oil around the pan on the dip stick side and learned two things when replacing the o-ring on the dip stick (a) the o-ring itself was partially to blame (b) the dip stick touches near the valve cover - most of the oil by the o-ring, was actually from a valve cover leak #2 it is in fact quite easy to replace, just remove one bolt which folds the dipstick guide to the block, then pull it up and replace the o ring. Having a buddy for the reinstall would be helpful 🤙
@@LandCruiserDIY That’s great. I’ve heard it’s best to clean around the o-ring to 1. Make sure no grime gets in there. 2. Be able to see indication of further leaks.
I forget which brand, but in general look for a degreaser with a neutral or near-neutral pH level. Extremely acidic or basic solutions are what damage aluminum. If I was doing it over, I’d just use soapy water because I remember spending too much time looking for the right degreaser to use.
@LandCruiserDIY good to know! when i did this on the passenger side last year (following this video of course) I did a ton of searching too and ended up just using simple green bc it's what i had on hand. still unsure if that was the right move. when i tackle the driver side this year, i'll just use soapy water 👍
Dude, you deserve million subs for that level of quality.
😂😂😂 best comment! Thank you!
Seriously, one of the clearest and best produced how-to videos of this kind I’ve seen. Really excellent work!
I admire anyone that has the skills and patience to do this type of work, especially on a daily basis in a garage working on other's cars. I could not imagine choosing this as a profession, but thankfully others with the skills do. As an acupuncturist and chiropractor, I use my hands to correct imbalances in the neuromuscular system, primarily from acute injuries, or from the effects of untreated childhood sports-related trauma, but for me this provides the challenges to develop skills in observation, diagnostic systems, and then ideal treatment and preventive protocols. Thank you for sharing your mechanical skills in your videos, I am amazed both by your patience, and your skills in diagnosing and treating the common maintenance problems in my favorite truck, the Land Cruiser!
Thank you for taking the time to write that - I really appreciate it. Making these videos is most definitely a labor of love!
Just want to say thanks. Did the valve cover gaskets on my ‘03 Cruiser today, following your vid step by step. Some of my wiring harnesses were a bit different, but completed the job without a hitch. I bought my Cruiser new in 03, and this is the first time I did the valve cover gaskets, @284K. I truly believe that these are the best built vehicles on the planet!! Seriously, thank you!!
Amazing! Super happy to hear this was helpful for you. Cool that you’ve owned the Cruiser since ‘03 - you can really see the effect of more frequent oil changes when you get in there. Also lucky that you don’t have to remove the cams to change the cam seals - just did that job which had me questioning the VVTi :)
You have me beat Yeahmaybe (great tag!). My 05 I bought fall of 04 is still *faultless at 193k* (other than O2 sensors, typical minimal maintenance, and some rust failures). Otherwise, yes: best vehicles on the planet! Reviewing ALL your GREAT videos DIY to see what I might need to do. One thing: check the tightness of my valve cover screws! .. Makes me wonder if that's all you would have needed to do to stop your leak; tighten those up???
Hi Mike,
Perhaps worth a try, but when I pulled the valve covers off, the gaskets had clearly failed. They had become stiff and a bit crumbly. I just encountered my second issue when, as I was driving, the ABS and brake idiot lights came on and a high pitch sound began to eminate from the dash area. I got out of traffic and pulled over, just as my brake pedal lost all pressure and I lost my brakes. Scary and without warning. I have a two way scanner that diagnosed my problem as a failed brake booster motor. Turns out that sound is a warning signal for failed brakes!! Like so many issues, after doing a bit of searching it turns out that this is also a relatively common problem. Parts are spendy, but the actual job of replacing the booster motor looks pretty straight forward. @@mikek5486
Just finished this job. Could not have done it without your excellent video. Thank you!
That’s great to hear - glad it helped!
The finest of DIY cruiser vids!
Once again - thank you!
Not that I'll ever do this work myself, I simply don't have the tools, experience, or patience to work on car engines. Not enough room. I'm a boat person.
However - you have provided me with a real-world insight into what's involved when I ask these jobs to be done on my LC and what Toyota will charge me for.
Thank you!
:)
Thank you for commenting - really appreciate it!
Amazing tutorial video. No BS. Straight to the point. Two thumbs up!!
Thank you! Ain’t nobody got time for that BS :)
Essentially the Same job on my GX470. Thank you for posting. Permatex Ultra Black is what I used, no issues.
Clear and easy to follow instructions. Thank you
Definitely - glad it was useful!
Great stuff! Would love to see a timing belt from you!
Thank you! Mine is due in about 10k so I’m getting ready for it 😅
Nice DIY straight and precise
Quality and clear videos. Much appreciated
Thanks Kevin!
Your videos are really well done. Thank you for making the effort to do these. They help many of us!!
Thank you! All the great resources are the icing on the cake for owning the 100 series :)
After watching several of your videos, they're amazing and the level of detail great. Please do a video or answer the question on how you keep/clean/maintain your engine compartment. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment - I really appreciate it!
excellent video, made doing the job at home easy and enjoyable.
Nice vid The driver side isa nightmare!
Thanks! Yeah +1 to that, driver's side is a pain.
I just did this on my LX, at least on the passenger side. And to note i didn’t have the connector to disconnect in the upper right corner. My seals were so dried out it was more like plastic than it was rubber lol. 3.5hrs of cleaning sand install. I’ll do the driver’s side next I’m too old to tackle both sides in one day
Thanks for the comment! Yeah depending on the state of the seals and connectors, it can be quite a bit of work 😅
Awesome 👏🏻 , very informative and well done video 👍 , thanks
Brilliant video, really well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Literally was doing this job today and chipped part of both my half moons as I was wiggling them out.. I was going side to side guess you gotta really just yank them upwards
04'LC 230k
Thank you great vid and info
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks for the video…..did you use any anti-seize paste on the spark plug threads? I know that helps me with removal the next time as well as getting a proper torque on them.
thanks I need to do this soon, very well done as always
Thank you! Tackling progressively bigger jobs, I’ve got 10k miles to figure out how to change the timing belt 😅
@@LandCruiserDIY wow that's a big job! Had it done a couple years ago thankfully. That'll be a interesting video!
Nice work!
Thanks!
Awesome video.thanks clean engine.what oil do you use.Hello from Australia
Great vid. Subbed!
Awesome, thank you!
Great camera work and editing. Timing Belt?
Thank you - thinking about it pretty soon!
Excellent thanks👍💯💯💯🇺🇸
Thank you!
@@LandCruiserDIY 💯
That’s a sparky screwdriver Klein 11-1 or 10-1
Thanks for vid
Just wanted to put this out there in case it helps anyone… the valve cover bolts are very commonly loose, to the point that the valve cover will leak. Most of the time they just need to be snugged back up.
+1 to Josh’s comment. The first time I did the valve cover gaskets a couple bolts were loose enough I could almost turn by hand. If just snugging back up it would be worth doing several passes around all the bolts in the star pattern. I thought these videos were useful: ruclips.net/video/D04eVLXnl1k/видео.html
such a good video, thank you. any other channels?
would be awesome to include part numbers, thanks
Thank you! Part numbers coming :)
Hope I don't jinx it for you, but is your starter/knock sensors due for service anytime soon? Would love to see a tutorial on removing the intake. Looks intimidating with all the hoses and harnesses. I have the printout from the FSM ready to go, but nervous about doing it.
Good question - not that I'm aware of. Next for me is replacing the cam seals and timing belt, which has me nervous as well! Good luck replacing it - make a video and post it!
Im surprised my mechanic didn't tell me about leaking VC gaskets when he replaced both Bank Knock Sensors on my '05 GX with 260k miles. Replacement of these sensors, starter, and other goodies under intake was not cheap.
Im thinking about tackling this job myself once I recover from recent back surgery that I just had on 11/17/24.
I've never done any major wrenching in engine bay. Mainly cosmetic stuff like new headlight housing, Garage Alpha grill with raptor lights, Floating Screen Head unit, speakers, etc. But I must say your video is very detailed in getting this job done, and once I heal in a few weeks, Im definitely going to attempt this. Working on these rigs is definitely much more entailed than working on my '70 SS El Camino I once had. Sold that bad boy many years ago not knowing of their value now. Hindsight !!!
But I must say these GX's are amazing beasts for sure.
Great video brother !!!
Man I hope your starter goes out tomorrow... no particular reason why... Just kidding. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you! Starter video coming soon actually 👍
While these are known for staying pretty dry, another common place to get leaks is the o-ring at the base the engine oil dipstick tube.
Unfortunately, I can't find a single video of this job despite folks on the MUD forums claiming it's not that hard.
Any chance it would be something you'd consider recording?
I actually just did this and have some additional info to add. #1 I had a lot of oil around the pan on the dip stick side and learned two things when replacing the o-ring on the dip stick (a) the o-ring itself was partially to blame (b) the dip stick touches near the valve cover - most of the oil by the o-ring, was actually from a valve cover leak #2 it is in fact quite easy to replace, just remove one bolt which folds the dipstick guide to the block, then pull it up and replace the o ring. Having a buddy for the reinstall would be helpful 🤙
@@LandCruiserDIY That’s great. I’ve heard it’s best to clean around the o-ring to 1. Make sure no grime gets in there. 2. Be able to see indication of further leaks.
Great job.
Thanks, Johnny!
9:00 Do we need to use a sealant? if so, what about the permatex ultra black gasket maker?
Yes, the form-in-place-gasket (FIPG) is required. The Toyota black fipg is cheap and easy to find - I’d suggest using that one.
what editing app are you using?
Hey - all done in fcpx. The animations / pointers / transitions are a plug-in I bought for making tutorials
which (aluminum-safe) degreaser did you use?
I forget which brand, but in general look for a degreaser with a neutral or near-neutral pH level. Extremely acidic or basic solutions are what damage aluminum. If I was doing it over, I’d just use soapy water because I remember spending too much time looking for the right degreaser to use.
@LandCruiserDIY good to know! when i did this on the passenger side last year (following this video of course) I did a ton of searching too and ended up just using simple green bc it's what i had on hand. still unsure if that was the right move.
when i tackle the driver side this year, i'll just use soapy water 👍
Anything new cooking?
I'm posting a few quick and easy ones shortly. Potentially doing the timing belt & cam seals in the next month - that'll be the biggest project yet!