Been in the HVAC trade for 45 years- That was a nice install. I have always installed the 4"-5" Merv 11 filters (April Air) in all my installs since 1988. Have never had to clean the indoor coil or air handler. Yes, they get changed once a year. Hope they don't forget the auxiliary pan and drain switches.
Being specific on the change rate of an air filter is the worst thing you can do. "On the average" or "about once a year" should be stated. If you live in a dusty area or carpet vs wood floors, pets, kids, how much you use the system, all the daily factors play into the change rate for your air filter no matter the filter!!
There's some smart systems out now that, besides usage timers, can monitor the static air pressure, and will send a 'reminder' that it's time to change your air filter.
I’m a NADCA-certified Air Systems Cleaning Specialist (ASCS) and I completely agree with you about using rigid ducts. I have cleaned well over 200 homes this past year and I have found that the most frequent problems occur with duct board and flex lines. Interior insulation deteriorates over time and then contaminates the airstream. The plastic inside of flex lines also starts to deteriorate and introduces contaminants into the airstream. I recommend hard lines all the way to the boot and then cover them with insulation to reduce the noise. The average homeowner won’t like having to hire a professional to reinstall or encapsulate lower durability ductwork every few years.
Correct. Rectangular or square duct generally does use turning vanes but the round heel round throat of a round sheet metal ell makes it unnecessary. Smooth airflow is what you're looking for, turbulence the enemy.
I knew you were going to say that you only have to change that air filter once a year. If you have a high merv filter it's going to collect more dust and that's great but believe me as a 37 year heating contractor you have to change the filter more often if it's collecting more dust. The only good thing you telling homeowners to change it once a year is it brings me to their home to reset the furnace and change the filter . Thanks for the extra busines .
Terry---LISTEN. The entire home envelope will be SEALED.No infiltration thru penetrations, around windows and doors, nowhere. The attic is conditioned air as well. I suppose you just love flex duct too. I spent over forty years in HVAC, working on everything from residential to light commercial, chillers to explosion proof industrial HVAC. I know a little something about the subject. With no infiltration fresh air must be provided, but betcha last dollar that his HVAC contractor is gonna have that filtered before it reaches the return air. I don't know his contractor, but I can tell you this. If all installs were done to their exacting standards service people would be starving in cardboard boxes under bridges.
I prefer hitting my head, catching my clothes on nails & truss plates, and pretending like I'm breaking into a museum, negotiating a laser array. The payoff, not being the attic anymore.
You have some good points and you seem very intelligent on what you do. The AC company that installed my new AC 2 years ago with new air ducts won't come fix problems. Anyways Barker air conditioning company fix their mistake under warranty. I'm still having a slight sweating problem on my air handler, where my joints what together on my air handler it sweats along there also where the shuf off is on the air handler. Will to big or small air ducts cuz speculating this problem? I might try it just for giggles to install a bigger duct and replace of a smaller duct going to one of the rooms. Research first.
Shalom Aleichem. So far very informative except, I live in an old (90 yr old) house that has had (prior to me moving in 30 yrs ago) all the old metal ductwork replaced with that flexible sift ductwork. The problem is since I'm out in the sticks we get mice & normally they're controllable except when I'm away for extended time's. The mice (an occasional opossum) decixed to munch on the flexible stuff and attempt to enter my home. Also we're talking a 4' - 1' crawl space. I wanna completely rip out the flexible crap & replace it with metal. I'm currently heating with a wood stove and it's great, but when I'm away I have to drain the house down to avoid cracked pipes an unfortunately the mice come back. Also I'm a retired mechanic 66yrs old on disability & my budget is very slim. I can do (with a gelper) most (if not all) the work myself. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Ratson haba b'shem YaHuah
(Advice from an HVAC installer) et metal work is really simple once you get some practice. Just like any other trade, buy the best tools (Malco, lenox, midwest, etc.) You can afford and it will make life easier. Having a set of *professional quality* snips and crimpers will save you so much frustration and Knicks and cuts on your fingers, I'd definitely recommend dropping some money on those 2 tools at least. If you are running duct in the crawlspace you most likely going to have to insulate your pipe runs and trunk duct. I'm a big fan of R8 "double bubble" wrap available at most HVAC wholesalers. Wrap everything before you hang it and tape up all your seams.
I understand wanting quiet, but not so much silence. After the hurricane, I just went through 8 days of pure silence in the house (aside from intermittently running the generator) and it was somewhat torturous at times. On the flipside, the usual loudness of a portable AC right next to my desk could be done away with and I'd be happier for it. But like, every place I've lived I've always wanted a fan on or something at night to make a bit of white/pink/whatever noise to help me sleep, so I don't think I'd really mind the slight vibration hum through the whole house of the unit or the air noise through the vents. Hell, it'd let me know whenever the system was actually running.
Hey Matt, first of all thanks for getting back to me with the answer....I’m in British Columbia and very surprised that they wouldn’t use it more here in some area’s where it doesn’t freeze up much. I really enjoy your video’s.
Boy you're not kidding about not wanting to replace the ducts after the fact. The grey flex ducts in my 80s built home were disintegrating from the heat, apparently home to several generations of roof rat. I pulled every duct and the fiberboard plenum out of that attic in the middle of summer and piled it up on the driveway. The smell of rat urine was indescribable.
I'm a big fan of keeping my HVAC unit in a closet in the conditioned space so it's easier to replace. Our south Texas attics get hot as heck, very few people spray foam the rafters. $$$$
Guessing there's adequate attic entrance in case unit needs major repairs decades down the road? Great idea though with attic space. Ours is installed in a crawlspace that gets flooded every couple of years, with return supply through the joists. Not the best place for previous owners to have installed it there.
Ever here of Static Pressure. Not going to get that with that install. Those hits on the supply are two close together to force air were it needs to go. And one more thing. You never, EVER take a hit off of the end of your trunk line.
William Winder , Code now requires balancing dampers in every supply branch collar so collar position is irrelevant . It is favorable to have all branches 18" apart and 18" from end caps or the air handler but not necessary on such a small system. ECM / variable frequency/ constant torque motors are all that are available now . They sense amp increase due to resistance and ramp up to compensate. Most systems won't loose much efficiency due to high static across the evaporator coil until static pressure exceeds .4"WC so poor airflow should never be an issue.
Y’all are talking about the octopus bit at the right side of the Mitsubishi unit yeah? Sorry, not a builder guy, just someone in the design phase of building a new house and this stuff is fascinating to me !!
I just found your channel this weekend. I learn something from each video. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and passion for building! I wish I worked for you!!
Hey nice system. When I renovated my house I installed a 2 stage furnace upstairs in a conditioned space with Metal duct supplies insulated wrap then returns are insulated flex. I have a smaller cape and it does really well. I like the Mitsubishi systems. Excellent video
It's RUclips. Expect there to be some sort of sponsorship unless otherwise stated. Amazon affiliate links are a big clue that there's a kickback involved.
Loved your video. I have a 2300 sqft home with basement. Main and second floor only have vents. I have two separate systems needing to be replaced. I’m considering one variable zoned system to replace 2 single stage units. Would you recommend this solution over doing 2 new 2 stage systems ? I’m in Georgia and not thrilled humidity in my house right now and the upstairs never gets cool. The house is 25 years old. So 1 variable zoned system vs 2 2 staged systems. ( I’ll be replacing the furnaces with a 2 stage variable furnace either way) carrier vs Lennox.
Hello from Russia! Nice work! Generally, we used false ceiling cooling and ventilation equipment, because in your case a duct is long and pressure increases.
I would consider that duct job hackery. Come to chicago and do a video one of our jobs. Another obvious note everyone else pointed out...no safety pan. Flex doesnt need to be there to quiet things down. Size your duct properly and you can stick with metal.
I see problems with high static pressure in that system. I would never tap that close to and end cap considering how short that main plenum is. that combined with only changing the filter once a year is asking for premature failure of the blower motor and the compressor.
wesley garley - I’ve seen this comment a lot... could you possibly link to the time where the plenum is shown? Do you mean the bit at the end that stops where all the other ducts branch off on the right side of the Mitsubishi unit?
Yep I am shaking my head at that damn mess, only a complete idiot uses flex on a VRF system to begin with. All those hangers cut your CFM way down and flex on its own causes high static which kills VRF systems. We contractors call that cutting corners and being lazy. Never use flex when you have the ability to run hard lines.
When heating during the winter, it seems like the primary return duct should be high in the house so that hot air doesn’t get trapped in the high spaces. Conversely, when cooling in summer conditions the opposite would seem to make sense (i.e., place the primary return duct low in the house). Does this make sense? - Thanks very much!
I'm also interested in this, I know a few AC guys who would never put AC units in the attic due to flooding concerns (the end owner always tends to skip on maintenance).
If you look closely the Install isn't finished. The line set isn't brazed in yet. He is in my neck of the woods and it wouldn't pass inspection here which is why I have no doubt it just isn't finished yet
I've installed these units before as well as the normal split system furnace and we never set them with out the pan. The pan goes first. Now they have to lift the system to put the pan which will put a strain on all those hard pipe supply lines.
carlos yanez The unit is hung from the rafters. The pan will be hung from the uni-strut. Very common way to install secondary pan and no need to lift unit
I've never seen a contractor do a cleaner job than me diy'ing with literally anything. Internet cable routing, ductwork, etc, they all do such a crazy messy and lazy job. Just randomly drilling holes thru ceilings and dropping cables thru. The work quality around here is terrible. This looks incredibly clean in this video, someone got their money's worth.
If sealing home with foam, why not seal/insulate duct with foam? Much better for sound dampening that flex duct. The foam we use is closed cell and sets up rigid. No rodent or moisture damage. Also need to look into fresh air intake and IQ Aire if you are concerned with air quality. Phenomenal Air makes a really good purifier. Used in conjunction with the IQ Aire Perfect 16 system, we have achieved a 0 particle >.3 micron per cubic foot inside home. Amazing considering that I’ve measured homes with 24 million particulate counts. Just my 2 cent worth.
Is there a reason you go with minisplit over a conventional style heat pump that also has VRF technology? Especially considering the minisplit in this case is ducted like a conventional install. I've always been told minisplits are only better because/when the ducts are eliminated.
Change an air filter once a year? Changing your filter is based on run time. Also the higher the merv rating the more restrictive the filter. I would recommend an electronic air filter for better air flow and better filtration to include a UV light. Also it needs a secondary drain pan under the unit with 2 water safeties. Just to keep you from getting sued for destroying the customers ceiling with water damage.
You didn't do the all-thread hanger correctly. It was supposed to be in front of the filter door. That is how most contractors do an install. Not caring about access for maintenance.
There isn’t a manufacturer out their that is good with changing an air filter once a year. Good way to void a warranty. The system works off of static pressure and adding a more restrictive filter especially a dirty one that has been in for a year is a good way to shorten the lifespan of a modern HVAC equipment.
In the north, we set up our attics to not be insulated and "breathe" in air from the outside and don't seal the attic ceiling for that reason. Is that not a thing in the south?
If you need to quiet the air stream you should have chosen a different unit. Flex duct quiets the air flow noise at the register? Absurd, since there should be practically no noise to begin with after the air hits that end cap on the plenum and has to be forced to the registers. . Flex duct only requires a thin wire, pencil or any sharp object to perforate it and you have air leakage for the life of the duct. One small hole and the entire section must be replaced (or cut and pieced together). Use metal all the way, you won't regret it. Use a trunk system with smooth-flow takeoffs, not a box with holes in it and branch lines attached.
Good ideas in general, but wouldn't it be better to insulate the attic with spray foam before the ducts are in the way? Also, I don't see any insulation on the return air plenums. Is it recommended to insulate those too?
OzoneEditions , No way to attach hangers once foam is sprayed. The equipment will be covered during spraying and the ducts along the roof will be mostly buried in the insulation, even with minimum R- value they most likely won't be completely visible afterwards . Return ducts are often lined on the inside, while supply ducts may be lined or wrapped. I prefer wrapping all ducts so there is no insulation in the air stream but the return air is filtered after the return plenum in this particular system so not a big deal . Duct liner's advantage is labor cost due to the fact that it is insulated when fabricated. Wrapping duct is more labor intensive . In this case it wouldn't have made much difference with a short plenum but a commercial building with hundreds or thousands of feet of duct it would.
return plenumn has insulation on the inside of plenumn, also new construction, insulation happens after all trades have been through the house you dont want to spray foam before hvac due to any roof penetrations
The exact opposite, actually. You want to have your ductwork, linesets, drains, and electrical done before sprayfoaming. Unless you don't take pride in your work and want it to look like garbage.
LG and Samsung make good mini split units. I know most installers only want to install Fujitsu and Mitsubishi buts its worth giving the Korean brands another look.
xcmskim4 the support from LG and Samsung is lacking compared with Mitsubishi. Can’t even find a vendor in my neck of the woods due to the crappy support the vendors got from LG.
Getting parts for any mini split seems to be a nightmare at times. Half the companies produce one for a few years and completely discontinue it. I’d rather stick with the couple that I can get parts for....
James K , They're are only around 5 mother companies that make mini splits although there are many labels. Mitsubishi and Fujitsu are the only ones that aren't junk. Many lines discontinue due to fast changing technology and warranty claims due to inferior products. I've seen more than one discontinue due to overwhelming warranty claims that forced bankruptcy on that line but not the mother company. No parts available on a 2 year old system with a 5-10 year warranty and the manufacturer tells you tough luck . Since Copeland no longer holds the patent on scroll compressors a lot of junk has been put out there. If it doesn't have a Copeland compressor it's junk. Easy rule. Trane, Carrier ,York ,Ruud, Goodman, Mitsubishi and Fujitsu all use Copeland compressors. Mitsubishi and Fujitsu cost more but I wouldn't consider istalling any other. It's not just the compressor but overall qauilty control however if they skimp on the compressor they certainly are cutting cost wherever possible.
Cody Thompson , I've seriously had to wait on parts from Japan or California, (im on the east coast ) but that's so with all mini splits. They have gotten better about keeping parts closer to dealers with the higher demand.
Zen mind Yea they are definitely getting better on parts. Nothing is more infuriating than trying to tell a customer how ridiculous the long wait time is gonna be on a part if the particular unit is even being supported anymore. Especially considering that all the mini-splits I typically work on are for IT rooms. Overall I’ve had very few problems with them other than condensate issues, typically the initial install is the culprit where they are trying to run too high of a lift for the internal condensate pump to pump properly so it runs until it dies. That are algae build up from someone not maintaining the equipment properly. Gravity feeding in external pumps seem alright but I’ve had problems with those too. Main complaint with mini-splits is how they cram 10lbs of shit in a 2lb bag but I suppose if they were any bigger than one of the main selling points of a small footprint would be diminished. All equipment is turning to shit whether it be due to cost savings on parts, poor engineering, are terrible QC. Our mechanical division replaced a bunch of Trane WSHP’s a couple years ago and installed bacnet controls on everything. I’ve already had to replace two TXV’s due to how the factory ran the bulb, leaked from vibration. Had to replace 6 contactors, one of them didn’t catch in time and just replaced a compressor because of it. Smaller RTU’s are even now getting residential style ECM motors I’m assuming due to the regulation changes. Had two Trane RTU’s on the same building with a bad module within a year of installation. Nothing wrong at all with the motor itself, but they won’t sell you just the module ffs. Even had a control board in a brand new voyager randomly short cycling both compressors, and kicking the inducer motor on in random intervals whether there’s a call or not. Strangest thing I’ve ever seen....
Every return should have its own filter to keep things out of your return lines. And another thing, typically the attic is not a conditioned space so you would never go up there. I've installed countless systems and only 3 people were wiling to go into the attic to chance one filter, they'ed rather chain 10.
William Winder, I agree with filtering the return ducts at each return grill. Honeywell makes a 4" filter grill filter that will fit in the standard 1" filter grill .Also consider customers not wanting to change their filter ever regardless of location. 12 month filters allow service provider to do it for them during matenance visits. Some aren't going to change them anyway no matter how easy. I have one customer that has 4 systems in their house with 12 filter grills total and she insists on using the 4" . I only have to change them every 18-24 months due to the amount of filter surface and the fact that she keeps her house spotless. Still $40 x12 is more than I would spend on filters even if only every two years. However 99% of contractors now will install it as seen in the video.
Emergency drain pan? Mastic on the transition on the return? Or are you not finished? Other than that, it's a pretty decent install. I wish I had some of those flood lights so I could show off my work.
i know this video is sort of older, so maybe another HVAC person can chime in if you can't. But when changing my filter today in my attic box (central Texas) I noticed that the unit that was running was sweating and condensing causing the unit to drip water to the drip pan. the entire bottom of pan was wet with rust colored water. What can I do to proactively get ahead of the pan rusting out and causing ceiling leaks later on? I work in the sheet metal union so i can make a new pan easily enough, but I'm not a service guy so don't know the best course of action to take. Thanks.
AusTexish - do you mean the split-head things he talks about early in the video? Can you not regulate multiple zones (like an upstairs and downstairs on a small house or a kitchen and den) with one unit like this?
Frankly I believe it is more important to find a good INSTALLER. Nearly every story you see about the smells, voids, etc. are from installers either messing up the ratios or spraying far too deep on layers.
I’ve been researching this lately (building a new home soon) and @bigrignohio nailed it... the foams themselves are all safe *_when used properly..._* the problems arise from poorly trained or lazy installers either not getting the mix (ratio) right *_and/or_* spraying too deep which doesn’t allow the necessary oxidation and off-gassing (solvents evaporating off) as the top layer traps the deeper stuff. One thing I’ve *_not_* been afraid to do with my architect and contractor is to ask these tough questions to ensure everyone who will soon be involved in putting my new house up follows best practices and doesn’t slack or skimp on any step... you only get to build it once !! Thankfully, as I’m using SIP (structural insulated panel) construction a *_lot_* of the issues that arise from framing are removed, tho I am building the house on a 5’ sill wall with a slab and that wall will have a spray foam insulation blanket inside.
So Supply side ends with Register vents; what do Retun side ends with what type of vents? Also, is Intake the same as Register? Or is it called Intake Register vents as a whole?
This video is Old i Know that but i hope your Installer Actually installed a Drain pan Underneath that Thing maybe they did after but it wasn't in the Video Just Saying up here in the North its a Must have thing
OK I have a question: I am in the process of buying a modular home in the spec sheet is states upflow furnace. My question "What does this mean and does it mean air dusts in attic or under flooring?
Can you have a trunk that has two elbows in it, or is that a poor idea? In order for my trunk to run the entire length of the house, I need it to bend upwards and then the second bend puts it horizontally again, so it actually would be located on two floors. Would this work? Thanks
Are there many alternatives to spray foam on the underside of the roof when air sealing? Like some kind of panel/batt insulation which is then sealed at the edges?
line jumper , Most equipment now has a water sensor in the primary drain pan from factory. That alone doesn't meet code requirements . It will shut the system off if the drain backs up but will not protect against a potential frozen evaporator coil as it thaws out. A secondary emergency pan must be installed with a secondary emergency drain or water detection device in the pan . I would not install that pan until after the foam spray is installed for more than one good reason. It will have to be installed before final inspection will pass and I'm certain they plan to do so.
That is the opposite of my experience. Most flex duct has a spiral wire "spring" inside that trips up the air flow creating a turbulent flow that is way noisier than a smooth duct. If you do use the flex, find one that has a smooth inner bore .
John Page agreed flex is for a lazy contractors, always run hard. You loose way too much CFM and have to use larger flex to make up for it. Also look how it is hung, that is air restrictions all the way down. Wtf bs is he claiming it is quieter, flex duct should never be used and definitely never on a VRF system where static pressure is its killer.
Hi Matt, Do you have any advice about installing whole house fans? I'm pricing up a mini-split system but have a house with large volume and a lot of solar gain. Since I'm in Northern New Hampshire, thought it might be cost effective to put in a hole house fan and the just A/C in the bedrooms. Any recommendations about how to approach this? Thanks for the videos, I enjoy them, they are helping me get up to speed.
He is using Versalams so it might be 30". Not sure what the codes are once you start getting into engineered lumber. He's in Texas so he doesn't have to worry about snow loads?
+John Salazar He's also not near the Gulf Coast, so he doesn't have to worry about hurricanes... HVAC contractors in the Houston area just put the unit on top of the ceiling joists with a drain pan underneath it. Often it gets supported by some bricks. Pretty crappy installation techniques. When I replace mine, I suspended it from the rafters like in this video, but without the springs. It makes it a lot easier to get underneath it. The drain pan is suspended from under the unistrut. Now, having said that, if I had the room and was designing from scratch, I would do the drain system a bit differently. Instead of having a drain pan that can collect a small amount of water before it gets to the level of the drain pipe, I would use a couple of pieces of corrugated metal roofing underneath the unit. I would slope these pieces like they were a mini-roof and then have them drain into a collection container that was plumbed to empty outside the house. Something made of thick plastic like a 55g plastic drum laid on it's side with a slot cut in it for the corrugated metal roofing to fit into make for a good collection container.
Can i ask some install advice please. Aprilaire e100 dehumidifier being ducted to return plenum. Plenum is 12 x 20" Am I ok to use side takeoffs for the ducting? Easier for access here. Can they be 45 degree( essentially thats actually a top takeoff but being installed as a sidetakeoff) or do they need to be straight collar takeoff?
Matt Risinger my system just stopped cooling. I have a 2014 Goodman compressor connected to a Goodman coil. This is connected to a 1995 (York?) gas furnace. I think the newer Goodman stuff is 5 ton where the original was 4. Also my old HVAC guy did not register the unit so it’s out of warranty I’m told, since it was just 5 years... so, do I get a new Aspen coil installed with a new plenum for about $1,800? Or, do I want a new Rheem full system for $6,500? I just got a new drain pan and float switch which seems perfect but my new guy wants to replace this, he says he buys this in a kit, that part sounds like BS to me. Thoughts about a new coil (which I assume comes in a new enclosure) or a new system? On a new system, should it be supported by the rafters? Currently the furnace sits on a few bricks.
Dense filters like this will plug up with dust and particulates rather quickly. Dirty filters reduce air flow, affect static pressure, and raise the amp load on the blower motor. This is especially hard on variable speed motors. Unless the occupants have allergy problems, use a low MRV filter.
How feasible is it to remodel a truss-roofed home to have insulation up against the roof? Besides the hard part of walking around of course, is the added weight an issue?
DukeLaCrosse20 this is lazy ass contractors who use flex. Flex is the absolute worst that degraded over time and kills modulating blower motors and compressors. If you have full access like he says they did a new construction do hard duck work. Flex you loose so much CFM you have to oversized your ductwork to get even remotely close to the right airflow and how that mess is installed is going to kill their blower motors
Looks like a 4 or 5 ton system? Not enough return air. You may consider using 2 systems for your homes depending on the size and configuration of your home.
More filtration means more restriction to airflow, which will make that system work harder. Where is the ionizer to reduce particulate count in air in conditioned space?
ARIZONA DRONE VIDS i agree 100%. The purpose of the filter is to protect the units coil, not to clean breathing air. If you want to clean breathing air you need an air purifier. Give that merv 11 3 months and its going to kill its airflow. Merv 8 is plenty.
You can always put a coarse filter before a fine filter. That way, you split the dirt over the two filters, and the more expensive fine filter lasts longer. We did it all the time in commercial/industrial systems.
John Bull I think you missed the point. A filter is not to clean the air it is to keep your equipment clean and nothing else. To improve IAQ you need to do alot more work in your home to achieve this. (Sealing ductwork, ionizer, air scrubber) that and to have even slightly positive results from a standard Merv filter you need to have your system running 24 hours a day 7 days a week 365 days a year. What is your filter doing in those off times when it's nice out and you don't need your H&C system? Absolutely nothing, it's just sitting there and during those off times your indoor air quality declines daily because of no filtration.
Hi. Arizona. I'm sorry for the confusion. My comment was aimed at Farmer's comment about how a merv 11 would clog too quickly. As you say, the filter is there to protect the equipment, and a G4 (~merv 7-8) would be enough for that. In the UK, we used to use G4 followed by the fan followed by an F7 (~merv13) on supply air, with just a G4 on extract, to protect the fan. So this would work, if you wanted merv 11 filtration for some reason (perhaps to prevent fan motor or drive assembly debris from passing through?). Indoor Air Quality is largely damaged by what is in our houses rather than what comes from outside, and, as you say, in fine weather, you can open the windows (thus proving that the F7/merv 13 filter is not needed). I suspect the point of the F7 filter was to prevent recirculated air in large offices from becoming laden with the finer dust particles that were able to pass through the G4 filter.
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Been in the HVAC trade for 45 years- That was a nice install. I have always installed the 4"-5" Merv 11 filters (April Air) in all my installs since 1988. Have never had to clean the indoor coil or air handler. Yes, they get changed once a year.
Hope they don't forget the auxiliary pan and drain switches.
newstart49 - are those filters very expensive?
Being specific on the change rate of an air filter is the worst thing you can do. "On the average" or "about once a year" should be stated. If you live in a dusty area or carpet vs wood floors, pets, kids, how much you use the system, all the daily factors play into the change rate for your air filter no matter the filter!!
There's some smart systems out now that, besides usage timers, can monitor the static air pressure, and will send a 'reminder' that it's time to change your air filter.
I’m a NADCA-certified Air Systems Cleaning Specialist (ASCS) and I completely agree with you about using rigid ducts. I have cleaned well over 200 homes this past year and I have found that the most frequent problems occur with duct board and flex lines. Interior insulation deteriorates over time and then contaminates the airstream. The plastic inside of flex lines also starts to deteriorate and introduces contaminants into the airstream. I recommend hard lines all the way to the boot and then cover them with insulation to reduce the noise. The average homeowner won’t like having to hire a professional to reinstall or encapsulate lower durability ductwork every few years.
lmfao useless title , i have a c-20,c-10 and general b license. you wasted your time ,life and money lol just picked up a 180 home track development .
Filter box looks great. Love the 4" filters! I agree on MERV-13. FYI round elbows usually don't have turning vanes.
Colin Black never vanes in round elbows
Correct. Rectangular or square duct generally does use turning vanes but the round heel round throat of a round sheet metal ell makes it unnecessary. Smooth airflow is what you're looking for, turbulence the enemy.
You’ve got a nice space to work with and nice things to be operating all the ac system
I knew you were going to say that you only have to change that air filter once a year. If you have a high merv filter it's going to collect more dust and that's great but believe me as a 37 year heating contractor you have to change the filter more often if it's collecting more dust. The only good thing you telling homeowners to change it once a year is it brings me to their home to reset the furnace and change the filter . Thanks for the extra busines .
Terry Moline - are those filters very expensive?
orion khan 35-45 bucks. We tell homeowners every six to 9 months max. No such thing as a one year filter
@@zack9912000 Are there automatically changing filter systems?
steam steam on large industrial systems yes, not for residential systems
Terry---LISTEN. The entire home envelope will be SEALED.No infiltration thru penetrations, around windows and doors, nowhere. The attic is conditioned air as well. I suppose you just love flex duct too. I spent over forty years in HVAC, working on everything from residential to light commercial, chillers to explosion proof industrial HVAC. I know a little something about the subject. With no infiltration fresh air must be provided, but betcha last dollar that his HVAC contractor is gonna have that filtered before it reaches the return air. I don't know his contractor, but I can tell you this. If all installs were done to their exacting standards service people would be starving in cardboard boxes under bridges.
Looks great. I hope the homeowner is prepared for the repair cost.
🤣🤣🤣
Love the conventional truss attics! Sooo much space to store and move around
I prefer hitting my head, catching my clothes on nails & truss plates, and pretending like I'm breaking into a museum, negotiating a laser array. The payoff, not being the attic anymore.
@@claytonanderson4713 What? You forgot straddling 24" trusses through 14" of insulation. LOL.
That install is a work of art.
Great Video! I have just installed a Mitsubishi Electric 3 Ton Ducted Heat Pump System in my new construction home.
You have some good points and you seem very intelligent on what you do. The AC company that installed my new AC 2 years ago with new air ducts won't come fix problems. Anyways Barker air conditioning company fix their mistake under warranty. I'm still having a slight sweating problem on my air handler, where my joints what together on my air handler it sweats along there also where the shuf off is on the air handler. Will to big or small air ducts cuz speculating this problem? I might try it just for giggles to install a bigger duct and replace of a smaller duct going to one of the rooms. Research first.
That duct wrap job looks good.
Shalom Aleichem.
So far very informative except, I live in an old (90 yr old) house that has had (prior to me moving in 30 yrs ago) all the old metal ductwork replaced with that flexible sift ductwork.
The problem is since I'm out in the sticks we get mice & normally they're controllable except when I'm away for extended time's.
The mice (an occasional opossum) decixed to munch on the flexible stuff and attempt to enter my home.
Also we're talking a 4' - 1' crawl space.
I wanna completely rip out the flexible crap & replace it with metal.
I'm currently heating with a wood stove and it's great, but when I'm away I have to drain the house down to avoid cracked pipes an unfortunately the mice come back.
Also I'm a retired mechanic 66yrs old on disability & my budget is very slim. I can do (with a gelper) most (if not all) the work myself.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Ratson haba b'shem YaHuah
(Advice from an HVAC installer) et metal work is really simple once you get some practice. Just like any other trade, buy the best tools (Malco, lenox, midwest, etc.) You can afford and it will make life easier. Having a set of *professional quality* snips and crimpers will save you so much frustration and Knicks and cuts on your fingers, I'd definitely recommend dropping some money on those 2 tools at least.
If you are running duct in the crawlspace you most likely going to have to insulate your pipe runs and trunk duct. I'm a big fan of R8 "double bubble" wrap available at most HVAC wholesalers. Wrap everything before you hang it and tape up all your seams.
I understand wanting quiet, but not so much silence. After the hurricane, I just went through 8 days of pure silence in the house (aside from intermittently running the generator) and it was somewhat torturous at times. On the flipside, the usual loudness of a portable AC right next to my desk could be done away with and I'd be happier for it. But like, every place I've lived I've always wanted a fan on or something at night to make a bit of white/pink/whatever noise to help me sleep, so I don't think I'd really mind the slight vibration hum through the whole house of the unit or the air noise through the vents. Hell, it'd let me know whenever the system was actually running.
Hey Matt, first of all thanks for getting back to me with the answer....I’m in British Columbia and very surprised that they wouldn’t use it more here in some area’s where it doesn’t freeze up much. I really enjoy your video’s.
Boy you're not kidding about not wanting to replace the ducts after the fact. The grey flex ducts in my 80s built home were disintegrating from the heat, apparently home to several generations of roof rat. I pulled every duct and the fiberboard plenum out of that attic in the middle of summer and piled it up on the driveway. The smell of rat urine was indescribable.
I'm a big fan of keeping my HVAC unit in a closet in the conditioned space so it's easier to replace. Our south Texas attics get hot as heck, very few people spray foam the rafters. $$$$
It’s not always easier though lol
The noise will permeate the conditioned space.
Great Videos, I would like to see more information on where to buy some of the components ( like the bottom springs ), thank you
What a beautiful install
I like to make a longer trunk line which gives better air flow. I try not have my branch no more then then 15 feet. But this is a neat job.
Guessing there's adequate attic entrance in case unit needs major repairs decades down the road? Great idea though with attic space. Ours is installed in a crawlspace that gets flooded every couple of years, with return supply through the joists. Not the best place for previous owners to have installed it there.
Excellent, highly informative video. Caught my HVAC installer using plumbers strap instead of All Thread and Uni Strut ... in earthquake country.
I see Matt, I hit like. It's what I do.
Thanks!!!
Ever here of Static Pressure. Not going to get that with that install. Those hits on the supply are two close together to force air were it needs to go. And one more thing. You never, EVER take a hit off of the end of your trunk line.
William Winder , Code now requires balancing dampers in every supply branch collar so collar position is irrelevant . It is favorable to have all branches 18" apart and 18" from end caps or the air handler but not necessary on such a small system. ECM / variable frequency/ constant torque motors are all that are available now . They sense amp increase due to resistance and ramp up to compensate. Most systems won't loose much efficiency due to high static across the evaporator coil until static pressure exceeds .4"WC so poor airflow should never be an issue.
Y’all are talking about the octopus bit at the right side of the Mitsubishi unit yeah? Sorry, not a builder guy, just someone in the design phase of building a new house and this stuff is fascinating to me !!
William Winder agreed laughing at other who say this is a good install.
I just found your channel this weekend. I learn something from each video. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and passion for building! I wish I worked for you!!
Hey nice system. When I renovated my house I installed a 2 stage furnace upstairs in a conditioned space with Metal duct supplies insulated wrap then returns are insulated flex. I have a smaller cape and it does really well. I like the Mitsubishi systems. Excellent video
Now more companies have entered the inverter market, how do you feel about other brands such as Bosch and Daikin?
Great video again
It would be nice to know if there is a subsidy from the manufacturer or something influencing the brands
Out of ‘full disclosure’
It's RUclips. Expect there to be some sort of sponsorship unless otherwise stated. Amazon affiliate links are a big clue that there's a kickback involved.
I love their podcast. Need to start listening again to it. Great video!
Man your code is so different in the south. Can't even imagine...
Loved your video. I have a 2300 sqft home with basement. Main and second floor only have vents. I have two separate systems needing to be replaced. I’m considering one variable zoned system to replace 2 single stage units. Would you recommend this solution over doing 2 new 2 stage systems ? I’m in Georgia and not thrilled humidity in my house right now and the upstairs never gets cool. The house is 25 years old. So 1 variable zoned system vs 2 2 staged systems. ( I’ll be replacing the furnaces with a 2 stage variable furnace either way) carrier vs Lennox.
Love an attic you can walk around in
Hello from Russia! Nice work! Generally, we used false ceiling cooling and ventilation equipment, because in your case a duct is long and pressure increases.
I would consider that duct job hackery. Come to chicago and do a video one of our jobs. Another obvious note everyone else pointed out...no safety pan. Flex doesnt need to be there to quiet things down. Size your duct properly and you can stick with metal.
how did you get an hvac in attic with no secondary metal drain pan ?
I see problems with high static pressure in that system. I would never tap that close to and end cap considering how short that main plenum is. that combined with only changing the filter once a year is asking for premature failure of the blower motor and the compressor.
wesley garley - I’ve seen this comment a lot... could you possibly link to the time where the plenum is shown? Do you mean the bit at the end that stops where all the other ducts branch off on the right side of the Mitsubishi unit?
Yep I am shaking my head at that damn mess, only a complete idiot uses flex on a VRF system to begin with. All those hangers cut your CFM way down and flex on its own causes high static which kills VRF systems. We contractors call that cutting corners and being lazy. Never use flex when you have the ability to run hard lines.
When heating during the winter, it seems like the primary return duct should be high in the house so that hot air doesn’t get trapped in the high spaces. Conversely, when cooling in summer conditions the opposite would seem to make sense (i.e., place the primary return duct low in the house). Does this make sense? - Thanks very much!
Why isn't there an overflow pan under the airhandler? It wouldn't pass inspection in this area with out it.
I'm also interested in this, I know a few AC guys who would never put AC units in the attic due to flooding concerns (the end owner always tends to skip on maintenance).
If you look closely the Install isn't finished. The line set isn't brazed in yet. He is in my neck of the woods and it wouldn't pass inspection here which is why I have no doubt it just isn't finished yet
I've installed these units before as well as the normal split system furnace and we never set them with out the pan. The pan goes first. Now they have to lift the system to put the pan which will put a strain on all those hard pipe supply lines.
carlos yanez
The unit is hung from the rafters. The pan will be hung from the uni-strut. Very common way to install secondary pan and no need to lift unit
Christopher .Corbell How do you hang drain pans from uni strut without compromising the integrity of the pan?
I've never seen a contractor do a cleaner job than me diy'ing with literally anything. Internet cable routing, ductwork, etc, they all do such a crazy messy and lazy job. Just randomly drilling holes thru ceilings and dropping cables thru. The work quality around here is terrible.
This looks incredibly clean in this video, someone got their money's worth.
If sealing home with foam, why not seal/insulate duct with foam? Much better for sound dampening that flex duct. The foam we use is closed cell and sets up rigid. No rodent or moisture damage. Also need to look into fresh air intake and IQ Aire if you are concerned with air quality. Phenomenal Air makes a really good purifier. Used in conjunction with the IQ Aire Perfect 16 system, we have achieved a 0 particle >.3 micron per cubic foot inside home. Amazing considering that I’ve measured homes with 24 million particulate counts. Just my 2 cent worth.
Is there a reason you go with minisplit over a conventional style heat pump that also has VRF technology? Especially considering the minisplit in this case is ducted like a conventional install. I've always been told minisplits are only better because/when the ducts are eliminated.
Change an air filter once a year? Changing your filter is based on run time. Also the higher the merv rating the more restrictive the filter. I would recommend an electronic air filter for better air flow and better filtration to include a UV light. Also it needs a secondary drain pan under the unit with 2 water safeties. Just to keep you from getting sued for destroying the customers ceiling with water damage.
The air filter is changed once a year, period. You have no knowledge of advanced systems so you're opinion doesn't matter.
You didn't do the all-thread hanger correctly. It was supposed to be in front of the filter door. That is how most contractors do an install. Not caring about access for maintenance.
I had a return plenum in front of the access door. No joke
There isn’t a manufacturer out their that is good with changing an air filter once a year. Good way to void a warranty. The system works off of static pressure and adding a more restrictive filter especially a dirty one that has been in for a year is a good way to shorten the lifespan of a modern HVAC equipment.
Doing this install rn it’s only my 2nd week. Thought I’d watch a video on it
Great video. Is the Mitsubishi unit a heat pump system? Are the similar to the newer Bosch systems?
In the north, we set up our attics to not be insulated and "breathe" in air from the outside and don't seal the attic ceiling for that reason. Is that not a thing in the south?
If you need to quiet the air stream you should have chosen a different unit. Flex duct quiets the air flow noise at the register? Absurd, since there should be practically no noise to begin with after the air hits that end cap on the plenum and has to be forced to the registers. . Flex duct only requires a thin wire, pencil or any sharp object to perforate it and you have air leakage for the life of the duct. One small hole and the entire section must be replaced (or cut and pieced together). Use metal all the way, you won't regret it. Use a trunk system with smooth-flow takeoffs, not a box with holes in it and branch lines attached.
Good ideas in general, but wouldn't it be better to insulate the attic with spray foam before the ducts are in the way? Also, I don't see any insulation on the return air plenums. Is it recommended to insulate those too?
I was going to ask about the order of installation as well (equipment before spray foam).
No it is not
OzoneEditions , No way to attach hangers once foam is sprayed. The equipment will be covered during spraying and the ducts along the roof will be mostly buried in the insulation, even with minimum R- value they most likely won't be completely visible afterwards . Return ducts are often lined on the inside, while supply ducts may be lined or wrapped. I prefer wrapping all ducts so there is no insulation in the air stream but the return air is filtered after the return plenum in this particular system so not a big deal . Duct liner's advantage is labor cost due to the fact that it is insulated when fabricated. Wrapping duct is more labor intensive . In this case it wouldn't have made much difference with a short plenum but a commercial building with hundreds or thousands of feet of duct it would.
return plenumn has insulation on the inside of plenumn, also new construction, insulation happens after all trades have been through the house you dont want to spray foam before hvac due to any roof penetrations
The exact opposite, actually. You want to have your ductwork, linesets, drains, and electrical done before sprayfoaming. Unless you don't take pride in your work and want it to look like garbage.
I love the rigid metal and insulation, top notch install.
Merry Christmas and a happy New Year Matt. I love your videos.
LG and Samsung make good mini split units. I know most installers only want to install Fujitsu and Mitsubishi buts its worth giving the Korean brands another look.
xcmskim4 the support from LG and Samsung is lacking compared with Mitsubishi. Can’t even find a vendor in my neck of the woods due to the crappy support the vendors got from LG.
Getting parts for any mini split seems to be a nightmare at times. Half the companies produce one for a few years and completely discontinue it. I’d rather stick with the couple that I can get parts for....
James K , They're are only around 5 mother companies that make mini splits although there are many labels. Mitsubishi and Fujitsu are the only ones that aren't junk. Many lines discontinue due to fast changing technology and warranty claims due to inferior products. I've seen more than one discontinue due to overwhelming warranty claims that forced bankruptcy on that line but not the mother company. No parts available on a 2 year old system with a 5-10 year warranty and the manufacturer tells you tough luck . Since Copeland no longer holds the patent on scroll compressors a lot of junk has been put out there. If it doesn't have a Copeland compressor it's junk. Easy rule. Trane, Carrier ,York ,Ruud, Goodman, Mitsubishi and Fujitsu all use Copeland compressors. Mitsubishi and Fujitsu cost more but I wouldn't consider istalling any other. It's not just the compressor but overall qauilty control however if they skimp on the compressor they certainly are cutting cost wherever possible.
Cody Thompson , I've seriously had to wait on parts from Japan or California, (im on the east coast ) but that's so with all mini splits. They have gotten better about keeping parts closer to dealers with the higher demand.
Zen mind Yea they are definitely getting better on parts. Nothing is more infuriating than trying to tell a customer how ridiculous the long wait time is gonna be on a part if the particular unit is even being supported anymore. Especially considering that all the mini-splits I typically work on are for IT rooms. Overall I’ve had very few problems with them other than condensate issues, typically the initial install is the culprit where they are trying to run too high of a lift for the internal condensate pump to pump properly so it runs until it dies. That are algae build up from someone not maintaining the equipment properly. Gravity feeding in external pumps seem alright but I’ve had problems with those too.
Main complaint with mini-splits is how they cram 10lbs of shit in a 2lb bag but I suppose if they were any bigger than one of the main selling points of a small footprint would be diminished.
All equipment is turning to shit whether it be due to cost savings on parts, poor engineering, are terrible QC. Our mechanical division replaced a bunch of Trane WSHP’s a couple years ago and installed bacnet controls on everything. I’ve already had to replace two TXV’s due to how the factory ran the bulb, leaked from vibration. Had to replace 6 contactors, one of them didn’t catch in time and just replaced a compressor because of it.
Smaller RTU’s are even now getting residential style ECM motors I’m assuming due to the regulation changes. Had two Trane RTU’s on the same building with a bad module within a year of installation. Nothing wrong at all with the motor itself, but they won’t sell you just the module ffs. Even had a control board in a brand new voyager randomly short cycling both compressors, and kicking the inducer motor on in random intervals whether there’s a call or not. Strangest thing I’ve ever seen....
Love this guys videos. Always interesting and educational.
Excellent stuff
thanks for the sales pitch
Every return should have its own filter to keep things out of your return lines. And another thing, typically the attic is not a conditioned space so you would never go up there. I've installed countless systems and only 3 people were wiling to go into the attic to chance one filter, they'ed rather chain 10.
William Winder, I agree with filtering the return ducts at each return grill. Honeywell makes a 4" filter grill filter that will fit in the standard 1" filter grill .Also consider customers not wanting to change their filter ever regardless of location. 12 month filters allow service provider to do it for them during matenance visits. Some aren't going to change them anyway no matter how easy. I have one customer that has 4 systems in their house with 12 filter grills total and she insists on using the 4" . I only have to change them every 18-24 months due to the amount of filter surface and the fact that she keeps her house spotless. Still $40 x12 is more than I would spend on filters even if only every two years. However 99% of contractors now will install it as seen in the video.
Emergency drain pan? Mastic on the transition on the return? Or are you not finished? Other than that, it's a pretty decent install. I wish I had some of those flood lights so I could show off my work.
Not really you should have at least 18 inches of head on your plenum before lines coming out and they have several right off the end.
@@judsonterry6644 I think you replied to the wrong comment or something. What you said has nothing to do with my comment.
i know this video is sort of older, so maybe another HVAC person can chime in if you can't. But when changing my filter today in my attic box (central Texas) I noticed that the unit that was running was sweating and condensing causing the unit to drip water to the drip pan. the entire bottom of pan was wet with rust colored water. What can I do to proactively get ahead of the pan rusting out and causing ceiling leaks later on? I work in the sheet metal union so i can make a new pan easily enough, but I'm not a service guy so don't know the best course of action to take. Thanks.
Is that high tech Mitsubishi in it catch that water overflow on the drain
Air-Rite does all my HVAC and they are indeed a quality outfit. One question, why not zone the house with individual air handlers and the VRF?
this house has six zones
AusTexish - do you mean the split-head things he talks about early in the video? Can you not regulate multiple zones (like an upstairs and downstairs on a small house or a kitchen and den) with one unit like this?
how do you replace an attic furnace? Cut a hole in the roof and haul it out with a crane?
Is it ok to add duct take offs at end of supply plenum?
You can hook up a VFD to plenty of Danfoss compressors. It's not a special feature
Have a question Matt, love what videos I've seen. Spray foam, how do you know which are safe?
MikeJ F --- Excellent question! I have been wanting Matt to address this issue as well. I hope he does a video on this subject.
Frankly I believe it is more important to find a good INSTALLER. Nearly every story you see about the smells, voids, etc. are from installers either messing up the ratios or spraying far too deep on layers.
I’ve been researching this lately (building a new home soon) and @bigrignohio nailed it... the foams themselves are all safe *_when used properly..._* the problems arise from poorly trained or lazy installers either not getting the mix (ratio) right *_and/or_* spraying too deep which doesn’t allow the necessary oxidation and off-gassing (solvents evaporating off) as the top layer traps the deeper stuff. One thing I’ve *_not_* been afraid to do with my architect and contractor is to ask these tough questions to ensure everyone who will soon be involved in putting my new house up follows best practices and doesn’t slack or skimp on any step... you only get to build it once !! Thankfully, as I’m using SIP (structural insulated panel) construction a *_lot_* of the issues that arise from framing are removed, tho I am building the house on a 5’ sill wall with a slab and that wall will have a spray foam insulation blanket inside.
@@grendelum All spray foam is toxic nasty stuff. I would not have any of it in my home. I want to eliminate poison from my environment.
So Supply side ends with Register vents; what do Retun side ends with what type of vents? Also, is Intake the same as Register? Or is it called Intake Register vents as a whole?
Good Info thanks Matt!
This video is Old i Know that but i hope your Installer Actually installed a Drain pan Underneath that Thing maybe they did after but it wasn't in the Video Just Saying up here in the North its a Must have thing
FREAKING AWESOME MATT!
OK I have a question: I am in the process of buying a modular home in the spec sheet is states upflow furnace.
My question "What does this mean and does it mean air dusts in attic or under flooring?
Perfect install
It’s a horizontal flow not an up flow . Up flow is when the blower is pointing upwards to the supple plenum
Can you have a trunk that has two elbows in it, or is that a poor idea? In order for my trunk to run the entire length of the house, I need it to bend upwards and then the second bend puts it horizontally again, so it actually would be located on two floors. Would this work? Thanks
Are there many alternatives to spray foam on the underside of the roof when air sealing? Like some kind of panel/batt insulation which is then sealed at the edges?
Rigid foam board
Nobody dares to critic him when uses poison.
Thanks for the videos Matt! I appreciate it!
Would a variable output unit make sense in the desert (Phoenix) where it's HOT most of the time?
If you haven noisey ductwork, it means you sized it wrong and your velocity is too high. You didn't pay attention to your external static pressure...
Not a big fan of hanging flex pipe horizontally as it can collaps over time. the rest of the install is quite nice.
Where is your secondary /emergency drain pan with inline low voltage shutoff ? Don't pat yourself on the back too quickly .
line jumper , Most equipment now has a water sensor in the primary drain pan from factory. That alone doesn't meet code requirements . It will shut the system off if the drain backs up but will not protect against a potential frozen evaporator coil as it thaws out. A secondary emergency pan must be installed with a secondary emergency drain or water detection device in the pan . I would not install that pan until after the foam spray is installed for more than one good reason. It will have to be installed before final inspection will pass and I'm certain they plan to do so.
line jumper this whole install is horrible, never use flex on a VRF system
Noise from air is due to speed, not flow. The duct should be sized up in those cases..
Great video. I like the sheet metal trunks to flex!
That is the opposite of my experience. Most flex duct has a spiral wire "spring" inside that trips up the air flow creating a turbulent flow that is way noisier than a smooth duct. If you do use the flex, find one that has a smooth inner bore .
John Page agreed flex is for a lazy contractors, always run hard. You loose way too much CFM and have to use larger flex to make up for it. Also look how it is hung, that is air restrictions all the way down. Wtf bs is he claiming it is quieter, flex duct should never be used and definitely never on a VRF system where static pressure is its killer.
Great video 📹
Hi Matt, Do you have any advice about installing whole house fans? I'm pricing up a mini-split system but have a house with large volume and a lot of solar gain. Since I'm in Northern New Hampshire, thought it might be cost effective to put in a hole house fan and the just A/C in the bedrooms. Any recommendations about how to approach this?
Thanks for the videos, I enjoy them, they are helping me get up to speed.
What's the spacing on those rafters? Looks massive
I was wondering that myself. It almost looks like 30".
Might just be the wide angle lens. Can't be over 24" I imagine
He is using Versalams so it might be 30". Not sure what the codes are once you start getting into engineered lumber. He's in Texas so he doesn't have to worry about snow loads?
+John Salazar
He's also not near the Gulf Coast, so he doesn't have to worry about hurricanes...
HVAC contractors in the Houston area just put the unit on top of the ceiling joists with a drain pan underneath it. Often it gets supported by some bricks. Pretty crappy installation techniques. When I replace mine, I suspended it from the rafters like in this video, but without the springs. It makes it a lot easier to get underneath it. The drain pan is suspended from under the unistrut.
Now, having said that, if I had the room and was designing from scratch, I would do the drain system a bit differently. Instead of having a drain pan that can collect a small amount of water before it gets to the level of the drain pipe, I would use a couple of pieces of corrugated metal roofing underneath the unit. I would slope these pieces like they were a mini-roof and then have them drain into a collection container that was plumbed to empty outside the house. Something made of thick plastic like a 55g plastic drum laid on it's side with a slot cut in it for the corrugated metal roofing to fit into make for a good collection container.
What is the cost of this system? Will the owner be better off to have multiple split-AC? Like one for each room.
Love to hear you thoughts on Unico systems
Can i ask some install advice please. Aprilaire e100 dehumidifier being ducted to return plenum. Plenum is 12 x 20"
Am I ok to use side takeoffs for the ducting? Easier for access here.
Can they be 45 degree( essentially thats actually a top takeoff but being installed as a sidetakeoff) or do they need to be straight collar takeoff?
Where do you get those red spring mounts the unistrut is sitting ?
Matt Risinger my system just stopped cooling. I have a 2014 Goodman compressor connected to a Goodman coil. This is connected to a 1995 (York?) gas furnace. I think the newer Goodman stuff is 5 ton where the original was 4. Also my old HVAC guy did not register the unit so it’s out of warranty I’m told, since it was just 5 years... so, do I get a new Aspen coil installed with a new plenum for about $1,800? Or, do I want a new Rheem full system for $6,500? I just got a new drain pan and float switch which seems perfect but my new guy wants to replace this, he says he buys this in a kit, that part sounds like BS to me. Thoughts about a new coil (which I assume comes in a new enclosure) or a new system? On a new system, should it be supported by the rafters? Currently the furnace sits on a few bricks.
Matt, I have heard you talk about VRF before. Its Daikin.
Daikin isn't the only one with VRF tech.
Dense filters like this will plug up with dust and particulates rather quickly. Dirty filters reduce air flow, affect static pressure, and raise the amp load on the blower motor. This is especially hard on variable speed motors. Unless the occupants have allergy problems, use a low MRV filter.
How feasible is it to remodel a truss-roofed home to have insulation up against the roof? Besides the hard part of walking around of course, is the added weight an issue?
Very good installation 😎
This is what they mean by getting all your ducts in a row?
DukeLaCrosse20 this is lazy ass contractors who use flex. Flex is the absolute worst that degraded over time and kills modulating blower motors and compressors. If you have full access like he says they did a new construction do hard duck work. Flex you loose so much CFM you have to oversized your ductwork to get even remotely close to the right airflow and how that mess is installed is going to kill their blower motors
Nice install
Matt, what are your thoughts on spray type fiberglass insulation such as JM spider plus or Knauf JetSpray?
Can that system also be used or combined as ductless multi zone?
I don't understand the advantage of running 25% power rather than 25% duty cycle. It seems like it would be just as efficient.
So this is not a multi zone system correct? It will cool or warm all the rooms needed or not correct?
Looks like a 4 or 5 ton system? Not enough return air. You may consider using 2 systems for your homes depending on the size and configuration of your home.
You are wrong. It is perfectly sized.
More filtration means more restriction to airflow, which will make that system work harder. Where is the ionizer to reduce particulate count in air in conditioned space?
ARIZONA DRONE VIDS i agree 100%. The purpose of the filter is to protect the units coil, not to clean breathing air. If you want to clean breathing air you need an air purifier. Give that merv 11 3 months and its going to kill its airflow. Merv 8 is plenty.
Farmer n' the Della Merv 8 with a reme Halo for the ionization to reduce particulate and sanitize the whole home.
You can always put a coarse filter before a fine filter. That way, you split the dirt over the two filters, and the more expensive fine filter lasts longer. We did it all the time in commercial/industrial systems.
John Bull I think you missed the point. A filter is not to clean the air it is to keep your equipment clean and nothing else. To improve IAQ you need to do alot more work in your home to achieve this. (Sealing ductwork, ionizer, air scrubber) that and to have even slightly positive results from a standard Merv filter you need to have your system running 24 hours a day 7 days a week 365 days a year. What is your filter doing in those off times when it's nice out and you don't need your H&C system? Absolutely nothing, it's just sitting there and during those off times your indoor air quality declines daily because of no filtration.
Hi. Arizona. I'm sorry for the confusion. My comment was aimed at Farmer's comment about how a merv 11 would clog too quickly.
As you say, the filter is there to protect the equipment, and a G4 (~merv 7-8) would be enough for that. In the UK, we used to use G4 followed by the fan followed by an F7 (~merv13) on supply air, with just a G4 on extract, to protect the fan. So this would work, if you wanted merv 11 filtration for some reason (perhaps to prevent fan motor or drive assembly debris from passing through?).
Indoor Air Quality is largely damaged by what is in our houses rather than what comes from outside, and, as you say, in fine weather, you can open the windows (thus proving that the F7/merv 13 filter is not needed). I suspect the point of the F7 filter was to prevent recirculated air in large offices from becoming laden with the finer dust particles that were able to pass through the G4 filter.
Why would you heat or cool from the ceiling I thought they gave that up in the 70s
If you don't have a basement to install furnace and ductwork, that's how it is.
Because cooling from the floor is grossly inefficient. Hot air rises cold air falls