New Construction HVAC - Here's My Favorite System
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- Опубликовано: 18 дек 2017
- Merv 13 Filter I mentioned in the Video amzn.to/2CHVIVB
Take a tour of one of Matt's homes. This top-notch HVAC system was designed by Positive Energy www.PositiveEnergy.pro
With Architecture by Vanguard Studios www.vanguardstudio.com
/ risingerbuild
www.mattrisinger.com
Been in the HVAC trade for 45 years- That was a nice install. I have always installed the 4"-5" Merv 11 filters (April Air) in all my installs since 1988. Have never had to clean the indoor coil or air handler. Yes, they get changed once a year.
Hope they don't forget the auxiliary pan and drain switches.
newstart49 - are those filters very expensive?
Being specific on the change rate of an air filter is the worst thing you can do. "On the average" or "about once a year" should be stated. If you live in a dusty area or carpet vs wood floors, pets, kids, how much you use the system, all the daily factors play into the change rate for your air filter no matter the filter!!
Glad to know there is still SOME quality work being done!
I love their podcast. Need to start listening again to it. Great video!
I just found your channel this weekend. I learn something from each video. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and passion for building! I wish I worked for you!!
That install is a work of art.
Excellent, highly informative video. Caught my HVAC installer using plumbers strap instead of All Thread and Uni Strut ... in earthquake country.
You’ve got a nice space to work with and nice things to be operating all the ac system
What a beautiful install
Merry Christmas and a happy New Year Matt. I love your videos.
Hey Matt, first of all thanks for getting back to me with the answer....I’m in British Columbia and very surprised that they wouldn’t use it more here in some area’s where it doesn’t freeze up much. I really enjoy your video’s.
Perfect install
Yeah when that condensate drain clogs up and the air handler overflows with no condensate pan that'll be real fun.
agreed wonderful install with NO overflow pan lol
Both of you numb nutz notice the dangling lineset? That means its not done yet 😂
Just add one under it ...
Thanks for the videos Matt! I appreciate it!
I’m a NADCA-certified Air Systems Cleaning Specialist (ASCS) and I completely agree with you about using rigid ducts. I have cleaned well over 200 homes this past year and I have found that the most frequent problems occur with duct board and flex lines. Interior insulation deteriorates over time and then contaminates the airstream. The plastic inside of flex lines also starts to deteriorate and introduces contaminants into the airstream. I recommend hard lines all the way to the boot and then cover them with insulation to reduce the noise. The average homeowner won’t like having to hire a professional to reinstall or encapsulate lower durability ductwork every few years.
lmfao useless title , i have a c-20,c-10 and general b license. you wasted your time ,life and money lol just picked up a 180 home track development .
Great video again
It would be nice to know if there is a subsidy from the manufacturer or something influencing the brands
Out of ‘full disclosure’
It's RUclips. Expect there to be some sort of sponsorship unless otherwise stated. Amazon affiliate links are a big clue that there's a kickback involved.
FREAKING AWESOME MATT!
Love the conventional truss attics! Sooo much space to store and move around
I prefer hitting my head, catching my clothes on nails & truss plates, and pretending like I'm breaking into a museum, negotiating a laser array. The payoff, not being the attic anymore.
@@claytonanderson4713 What? You forgot straddling 24" trusses through 14" of insulation. LOL.
Filter box looks great. Love the 4" filters! I agree on MERV-13. FYI round elbows usually don't have turning vanes.
Colin Black never vanes in round elbows
Correct. Rectangular or square duct generally does use turning vanes but the round heel round throat of a round sheet metal ell makes it unnecessary. Smooth airflow is what you're looking for, turbulence the enemy.
That duct wrap job looks good.
Great Video! I have just installed a Mitsubishi Electric 3 Ton Ducted Heat Pump System in my new construction home.
Is there a reason you go with minisplit over a conventional style heat pump that also has VRF technology? Especially considering the minisplit in this case is ducted like a conventional install. I've always been told minisplits are only better because/when the ducts are eliminated.
Great system.
Loved your video. I have a 2300 sqft home with basement. Main and second floor only have vents. I have two separate systems needing to be replaced. I’m considering one variable zoned system to replace 2 single stage units. Would you recommend this solution over doing 2 new 2 stage systems ? I’m in Georgia and not thrilled humidity in my house right now and the upstairs never gets cool. The house is 25 years old. So 1 variable zoned system vs 2 2 staged systems. ( I’ll be replacing the furnaces with a 2 stage variable furnace either way) carrier vs Lennox.
Looks great. I hope the homeowner is prepared for the repair cost.
🤣🤣🤣
Hi Matt, Do you have any advice about installing whole house fans? I'm pricing up a mini-split system but have a house with large volume and a lot of solar gain. Since I'm in Northern New Hampshire, thought it might be cost effective to put in a hole house fan and the just A/C in the bedrooms. Any recommendations about how to approach this?
Thanks for the videos, I enjoy them, they are helping me get up to speed.
Great video. Is the Mitsubishi unit a heat pump system? Are the similar to the newer Bosch systems?
Love to hear you thoughts on Unico systems
Nice install
I see Matt, I hit like. It's what I do.
Thanks!!!
how did you get an hvac in attic with no secondary metal drain pan ?
Have a question Matt, love what videos I've seen. Spray foam, how do you know which are safe?
MikeJ F --- Excellent question! I have been wanting Matt to address this issue as well. I hope he does a video on this subject.
Frankly I believe it is more important to find a good INSTALLER. Nearly every story you see about the smells, voids, etc. are from installers either messing up the ratios or spraying far too deep on layers.
I’ve been researching this lately (building a new home soon) and @bigrignohio nailed it... the foams themselves are all safe *_when used properly..._* the problems arise from poorly trained or lazy installers either not getting the mix (ratio) right *_and/or_* spraying too deep which doesn’t allow the necessary oxidation and off-gassing (solvents evaporating off) as the top layer traps the deeper stuff. One thing I’ve *_not_* been afraid to do with my architect and contractor is to ask these tough questions to ensure everyone who will soon be involved in putting my new house up follows best practices and doesn’t slack or skimp on any step... you only get to build it once !! Thankfully, as I’m using SIP (structural insulated panel) construction a *_lot_* of the issues that arise from framing are removed, tho I am building the house on a 5’ sill wall with a slab and that wall will have a spray foam insulation blanket inside.
@@grendelum All spray foam is toxic nasty stuff. I would not have any of it in my home. I want to eliminate poison from my environment.
Matt, what are your thoughts on spray type fiberglass insulation such as JM spider plus or Knauf JetSpray?
Excellent stuff
Hi Matt,
What HVAC system/setup would you recommend for a triple decker(3 units) with separated systems? Thank you!
When heating during the winter, it seems like the primary return duct should be high in the house so that hot air doesn’t get trapped in the high spaces. Conversely, when cooling in summer conditions the opposite would seem to make sense (i.e., place the primary return duct low in the house). Does this make sense? - Thanks very much!
Good Info thanks Matt!
Man your code is so different in the south. Can't even imagine...
I like to make a longer trunk line which gives better air flow. I try not have my branch no more then then 15 feet. But this is a neat job.
You have some good points and you seem very intelligent on what you do. The AC company that installed my new AC 2 years ago with new air ducts won't come fix problems. Anyways Barker air conditioning company fix their mistake under warranty. I'm still having a slight sweating problem on my air handler, where my joints what together on my air handler it sweats along there also where the shuf off is on the air handler. Will to big or small air ducts cuz speculating this problem? I might try it just for giggles to install a bigger duct and replace of a smaller duct going to one of the rooms. Research first.
Love an attic you can walk around in
How feasible is it to remodel a truss-roofed home to have insulation up against the roof? Besides the hard part of walking around of course, is the added weight an issue?
Are there many alternatives to spray foam on the underside of the roof when air sealing? Like some kind of panel/batt insulation which is then sealed at the edges?
Rigid foam board
Nobody dares to critic him when uses poison.
I'm a big fan of keeping my HVAC unit in a closet in the conditioned space so it's easier to replace. Our south Texas attics get hot as heck, very few people spray foam the rafters. $$$$
It’s not always easier though lol
The noise will permeate the conditioned space.
Doing this install rn it’s only my 2nd week. Thought I’d watch a video on it
Love this guys videos. Always interesting and educational.
Matt Risinger my system just stopped cooling. I have a 2014 Goodman compressor connected to a Goodman coil. This is connected to a 1995 (York?) gas furnace. I think the newer Goodman stuff is 5 ton where the original was 4. Also my old HVAC guy did not register the unit so it’s out of warranty I’m told, since it was just 5 years... so, do I get a new Aspen coil installed with a new plenum for about $1,800? Or, do I want a new Rheem full system for $6,500? I just got a new drain pan and float switch which seems perfect but my new guy wants to replace this, he says he buys this in a kit, that part sounds like BS to me. Thoughts about a new coil (which I assume comes in a new enclosure) or a new system? On a new system, should it be supported by the rafters? Currently the furnace sits on a few bricks.
thanks for the sales pitch
Emergency drain pan? Mastic on the transition on the return? Or are you not finished? Other than that, it's a pretty decent install. I wish I had some of those flood lights so I could show off my work.
Not really you should have at least 18 inches of head on your plenum before lines coming out and they have several right off the end.
@@judsonterry6644 I think you replied to the wrong comment or something. What you said has nothing to do with my comment.
Good ideas in general, but wouldn't it be better to insulate the attic with spray foam before the ducts are in the way? Also, I don't see any insulation on the return air plenums. Is it recommended to insulate those too?
I was going to ask about the order of installation as well (equipment before spray foam).
No it is not
OzoneEditions , No way to attach hangers once foam is sprayed. The equipment will be covered during spraying and the ducts along the roof will be mostly buried in the insulation, even with minimum R- value they most likely won't be completely visible afterwards . Return ducts are often lined on the inside, while supply ducts may be lined or wrapped. I prefer wrapping all ducts so there is no insulation in the air stream but the return air is filtered after the return plenum in this particular system so not a big deal . Duct liner's advantage is labor cost due to the fact that it is insulated when fabricated. Wrapping duct is more labor intensive . In this case it wouldn't have made much difference with a short plenum but a commercial building with hundreds or thousands of feet of duct it would.
return plenumn has insulation on the inside of plenumn, also new construction, insulation happens after all trades have been through the house you dont want to spray foam before hvac due to any roof penetrations
The exact opposite, actually. You want to have your ductwork, linesets, drains, and electrical done before sprayfoaming. Unless you don't take pride in your work and want it to look like garbage.
So Supply side ends with Register vents; what do Retun side ends with what type of vents? Also, is Intake the same as Register? Or is it called Intake Register vents as a whole?
Can you have a trunk that has two elbows in it, or is that a poor idea? In order for my trunk to run the entire length of the house, I need it to bend upwards and then the second bend puts it horizontally again, so it actually would be located on two floors. Would this work? Thanks
Would a variable output unit make sense in the desert (Phoenix) where it's HOT most of the time?
I knew you were going to say that you only have to change that air filter once a year. If you have a high merv filter it's going to collect more dust and that's great but believe me as a 37 year heating contractor you have to change the filter more often if it's collecting more dust. The only good thing you telling homeowners to change it once a year is it brings me to their home to reset the furnace and change the filter . Thanks for the extra busines .
Terry Moline - are those filters very expensive?
orion khan 35-45 bucks. We tell homeowners every six to 9 months max. No such thing as a one year filter
@@zack9912000 Are there automatically changing filter systems?
steam steam on large industrial systems yes, not for residential systems
Terry---LISTEN. The entire home envelope will be SEALED.No infiltration thru penetrations, around windows and doors, nowhere. The attic is conditioned air as well. I suppose you just love flex duct too. I spent over forty years in HVAC, working on everything from residential to light commercial, chillers to explosion proof industrial HVAC. I know a little something about the subject. With no infiltration fresh air must be provided, but betcha last dollar that his HVAC contractor is gonna have that filtered before it reaches the return air. I don't know his contractor, but I can tell you this. If all installs were done to their exacting standards service people would be starving in cardboard boxes under bridges.
Great video 📹
Is that high tech Mitsubishi in it catch that water overflow on the drain
Why isn't there an overflow pan under the airhandler? It wouldn't pass inspection in this area with out it.
I'm also interested in this, I know a few AC guys who would never put AC units in the attic due to flooding concerns (the end owner always tends to skip on maintenance).
If you look closely the Install isn't finished. The line set isn't brazed in yet. He is in my neck of the woods and it wouldn't pass inspection here which is why I have no doubt it just isn't finished yet
I've installed these units before as well as the normal split system furnace and we never set them with out the pan. The pan goes first. Now they have to lift the system to put the pan which will put a strain on all those hard pipe supply lines.
carlos yanez
The unit is hung from the rafters. The pan will be hung from the uni-strut. Very common way to install secondary pan and no need to lift unit
Christopher .Corbell How do you hang drain pans from uni strut without compromising the integrity of the pan?
What's the spacing on those rafters? Looks massive
I was wondering that myself. It almost looks like 30".
Might just be the wide angle lens. Can't be over 24" I imagine
He is using Versalams so it might be 30". Not sure what the codes are once you start getting into engineered lumber. He's in Texas so he doesn't have to worry about snow loads?
+John Salazar
He's also not near the Gulf Coast, so he doesn't have to worry about hurricanes...
HVAC contractors in the Houston area just put the unit on top of the ceiling joists with a drain pan underneath it. Often it gets supported by some bricks. Pretty crappy installation techniques. When I replace mine, I suspended it from the rafters like in this video, but without the springs. It makes it a lot easier to get underneath it. The drain pan is suspended from under the unistrut.
Now, having said that, if I had the room and was designing from scratch, I would do the drain system a bit differently. Instead of having a drain pan that can collect a small amount of water before it gets to the level of the drain pipe, I would use a couple of pieces of corrugated metal roofing underneath the unit. I would slope these pieces like they were a mini-roof and then have them drain into a collection container that was plumbed to empty outside the house. Something made of thick plastic like a 55g plastic drum laid on it's side with a slot cut in it for the corrugated metal roofing to fit into make for a good collection container.
Air-Rite does all my HVAC and they are indeed a quality outfit. One question, why not zone the house with individual air handlers and the VRF?
this house has six zones
AusTexish - do you mean the split-head things he talks about early in the video? Can you not regulate multiple zones (like an upstairs and downstairs on a small house or a kitchen and den) with one unit like this?
i know this video is sort of older, so maybe another HVAC person can chime in if you can't. But when changing my filter today in my attic box (central Texas) I noticed that the unit that was running was sweating and condensing causing the unit to drip water to the drip pan. the entire bottom of pan was wet with rust colored water. What can I do to proactively get ahead of the pan rusting out and causing ceiling leaks later on? I work in the sheet metal union so i can make a new pan easily enough, but I'm not a service guy so don't know the best course of action to take. Thanks.
Now more companies have entered the inverter market, how do you feel about other brands such as Bosch and Daikin?
What is the cost of this system? Will the owner be better off to have multiple split-AC? Like one for each room.
Can i ask some install advice please. Aprilaire e100 dehumidifier being ducted to return plenum. Plenum is 12 x 20"
Am I ok to use side takeoffs for the ducting? Easier for access here.
Can they be 45 degree( essentially thats actually a top takeoff but being installed as a sidetakeoff) or do they need to be straight collar takeoff?
how do you replace an attic furnace? Cut a hole in the roof and haul it out with a crane?
I love the rigid metal and insulation, top notch install.
So this is not a multi zone system correct? It will cool or warm all the rooms needed or not correct?
Shalom Aleichem.
So far very informative except, I live in an old (90 yr old) house that has had (prior to me moving in 30 yrs ago) all the old metal ductwork replaced with that flexible sift ductwork.
The problem is since I'm out in the sticks we get mice & normally they're controllable except when I'm away for extended time's.
The mice (an occasional opossum) decixed to munch on the flexible stuff and attempt to enter my home.
Also we're talking a 4' - 1' crawl space.
I wanna completely rip out the flexible crap & replace it with metal.
I'm currently heating with a wood stove and it's great, but when I'm away I have to drain the house down to avoid cracked pipes an unfortunately the mice come back.
Also I'm a retired mechanic 66yrs old on disability & my budget is very slim. I can do (with a gelper) most (if not all) the work myself.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Ratson haba b'shem YaHuah
(Advice from an HVAC installer) et metal work is really simple once you get some practice. Just like any other trade, buy the best tools (Malco, lenox, midwest, etc.) You can afford and it will make life easier. Having a set of *professional quality* snips and crimpers will save you so much frustration and Knicks and cuts on your fingers, I'd definitely recommend dropping some money on those 2 tools at least.
If you are running duct in the crawlspace you most likely going to have to insulate your pipe runs and trunk duct. I'm a big fan of R8 "double bubble" wrap available at most HVAC wholesalers. Wrap everything before you hang it and tape up all your seams.
Will this single unit be enough fo a Florida one story 2700sf house
Can that system also be used or combined as ductless multi zone?
OK I have a question: I am in the process of buying a modular home in the spec sheet is states upflow furnace.
My question "What does this mean and does it mean air dusts in attic or under flooring?
Ever here of Static Pressure. Not going to get that with that install. Those hits on the supply are two close together to force air were it needs to go. And one more thing. You never, EVER take a hit off of the end of your trunk line.
William Winder , Code now requires balancing dampers in every supply branch collar so collar position is irrelevant . It is favorable to have all branches 18" apart and 18" from end caps or the air handler but not necessary on such a small system. ECM / variable frequency/ constant torque motors are all that are available now . They sense amp increase due to resistance and ramp up to compensate. Most systems won't loose much efficiency due to high static across the evaporator coil until static pressure exceeds .4"WC so poor airflow should never be an issue.
Y’all are talking about the octopus bit at the right side of the Mitsubishi unit yeah? Sorry, not a builder guy, just someone in the design phase of building a new house and this stuff is fascinating to me !!
William Winder agreed laughing at other who say this is a good install.
Is it ok to add duct take offs at end of supply plenum?
In the north, we set up our attics to not be insulated and "breathe" in air from the outside and don't seal the attic ceiling for that reason. Is that not a thing in the south?
Boy you're not kidding about not wanting to replace the ducts after the fact. The grey flex ducts in my 80s built home were disintegrating from the heat, apparently home to several generations of roof rat. I pulled every duct and the fiberboard plenum out of that attic in the middle of summer and piled it up on the driveway. The smell of rat urine was indescribable.
Hey nice system. When I renovated my house I installed a 2 stage furnace upstairs in a conditioned space with Metal duct supplies insulated wrap then returns are insulated flex. I have a smaller cape and it does really well. I like the Mitsubishi systems. Excellent video
I see problems with high static pressure in that system. I would never tap that close to and end cap considering how short that main plenum is. that combined with only changing the filter once a year is asking for premature failure of the blower motor and the compressor.
wesley garley - I’ve seen this comment a lot... could you possibly link to the time where the plenum is shown? Do you mean the bit at the end that stops where all the other ducts branch off on the right side of the Mitsubishi unit?
Yep I am shaking my head at that damn mess, only a complete idiot uses flex on a VRF system to begin with. All those hangers cut your CFM way down and flex on its own causes high static which kills VRF systems. We contractors call that cutting corners and being lazy. Never use flex when you have the ability to run hard lines.
Hey Matt, I have a question for you....I did acr when I first got out of high school in south eastern Ontario and installed a shit load of heat pumps, do they still make them and do many install them these days or do they just do separate heating/ cooling systems?
Still around. Not used often in my (cold) area but you will see the traditional ones installed with electric furnaces and the ductless split ones with electric baseboard systems
Lorne Lepage Heat pump technology has come a long way. In cold climates I would recommend a dual fuel heat pump system. The compressor will heat when outside temps are suitable 35° + . Electric is more efficient at these temps . Once outside temp drops below the preset balance point the system will automatically switch to fossil fuel back up , natural gas or fuel oil which becomes more efficient than the heat pump below approximately 35° . Newer inverter drive variable speed heat pumps like the Mitsubishi in the video can perform more efficiently at even lower temps than convietional heat pumps.
This is what they mean by getting all your ducts in a row?
DukeLaCrosse20 this is lazy ass contractors who use flex. Flex is the absolute worst that degraded over time and kills modulating blower motors and compressors. If you have full access like he says they did a new construction do hard duck work. Flex you loose so much CFM you have to oversized your ductwork to get even remotely close to the right airflow and how that mess is installed is going to kill their blower motors
How is this a vrf system are there any other indoor units?
I would consider that duct job hackery. Come to chicago and do a video one of our jobs. Another obvious note everyone else pointed out...no safety pan. Flex doesnt need to be there to quiet things down. Size your duct properly and you can stick with metal.
Where do you get those red spring mounts the unistrut is sitting ?
What's the name of the Mitzbishi box/filter setup? Would like to look up more information about that part of the system.
Filter box is probably honeywell or aprilaire
I'm curious because I'll be building a new house sometime in the next couple of years - why is this system better than say a Carrier or a Lennox variable speed, inverter system? Also, if I wanted a zoned system with each bedroom on it's own zone, is it better to use dampers and a single larger unit? I mostly see you use a large air handler, plus maybe one other air handler in a random area. So, basically, why is the Mitsubishi system your system of choice given all the other options?
It's not lol
Personal opinion Goodman is your best unit. Everyone will have a reason why they say go with a certain unit but Goodman is the only one I've found with a labor warranty.
Matt, I have heard you talk about VRF before. Its Daikin.
Daikin isn't the only one with VRF tech.
Where we get air in house, when his stop working or mabe power lost, or something something ?
Mindaugas nomnom open a fucking window
I live in Florida and my system is in the garage recessed in the wall. I was thinking about boxing it in and putting a door on it. Would that make it more affection?
Jon Bozzy you mean it would like you more? I'm not sure "affection" is the right word 😂
Lol efficient
Jon Bozzy probably make things worse by doing that. Especially for the guys trying to work on it or replace it.
Why would you heat or cool from the ceiling I thought they gave that up in the 70s
If you don't have a basement to install furnace and ductwork, that's how it is.
Because cooling from the floor is grossly inefficient. Hot air rises cold air falls
You didn't do the all-thread hanger correctly. It was supposed to be in front of the filter door. That is how most contractors do an install. Not caring about access for maintenance.
I had a return plenum in front of the access door. No joke
You can hook up a VFD to plenty of Danfoss compressors. It's not a special feature
Wats the static pressure on the return side
I have a filter on the intake vent in my house. It’s about 1” thick. Is there another one located at the unit in my attic that I need to be replacing also??
No
@@michaelesposito2629 why
If sealing home with foam, why not seal/insulate duct with foam? Much better for sound dampening that flex duct. The foam we use is closed cell and sets up rigid. No rodent or moisture damage. Also need to look into fresh air intake and IQ Aire if you are concerned with air quality. Phenomenal Air makes a really good purifier. Used in conjunction with the IQ Aire Perfect 16 system, we have achieved a 0 particle >.3 micron per cubic foot inside home. Amazing considering that I’ve measured homes with 24 million particulate counts. Just my 2 cent worth.
Does this system allow for individual rooms to be air-conditioned?
No..you would need VAV's or electric dampners
Hey Matt, what's your opinion on fiberboard air ducts? That is what I am seeing in most homes built in S. Texas.
If it's a good quality product, they are superior to externally wrapped metal. The reason is that metal will sweat (in the South that is) eventually. I did my house in metal, mastic and tape on every joint, insulated to R-10, 14 years later that buzzard is wet on the bottom. (Florida) This won't happen up north as much.
Good ductboard stays stable and has a very smooth surface in the airflow. Bad ductboard will fall apart with the least amount of abuse. You just have to know which supply house has the good stuff.
Duct board will disintegrate from the inside if it is not lined. Fiberglass particulate in the air is a bad thing for people with respiratory issues.
Raul P. , There is no such thing as good duct board. It's all crap. It can become a mold bed on the inside just from the high humidity from the conditioned air over time. It will degrade and grow mold in just a few years if exposed to high moisture levels as in a crawl space.
Andrew Acree There is no way to line duct board. No approved method anyway. I agree any fiberglass in the airstream is bad. Metal wrapped on the outside is the way to go
Charles Terrizzi , Most likely you had a combination problem. Excessive humidity will cause this regardless of the duct type. If had been duct board it would have desentigrated in 1/2 that time. Even duct board will get wet on the bottom like that and rot out? Most likely aside from high humidity levels your ac air is too cold. Meaning that the air flow is inadaquite or the refrigerant is overcharged. Dirty filters , dirty evap coil degraded blower motor windings or capacitor and usually undersized duct systems can contribute to excessive sweating. When the air is to slow it drops below design temp . Even R -16 can sweat with 50° supply air in an unconditioned high humidity area. You're better off with the metal. Even if insulation degrades at least the duct doesn't completely fall apart . I've seen homes that required a dehumidifier in the crawlspace. A sealed crawlspace is ideal but not everyone can afford that . I live in N.C . 25 years in HVAC . 5 as a licensed contractor. Not as bad as Florida for humidity but pretty close.
Won't spray foaming the roof trap moisture and rot the crap out of the lumber?
No. What moisture are you trapping?
Why do you choose radial and not trunk and branch ?
Great video. I like the sheet metal trunks to flex!
That is the opposite of my experience. Most flex duct has a spiral wire "spring" inside that trips up the air flow creating a turbulent flow that is way noisier than a smooth duct. If you do use the flex, find one that has a smooth inner bore .
John Page agreed flex is for a lazy contractors, always run hard. You loose way too much CFM and have to use larger flex to make up for it. Also look how it is hung, that is air restrictions all the way down. Wtf bs is he claiming it is quieter, flex duct should never be used and definitely never on a VRF system where static pressure is its killer.
If you haven noisey ductwork, it means you sized it wrong and your velocity is too high. You didn't pay attention to your external static pressure...
Not a big fan of hanging flex pipe horizontally as it can collaps over time. the rest of the install is quite nice.
Northeast has systems in the attic and basement
LG and Samsung make good mini split units. I know most installers only want to install Fujitsu and Mitsubishi buts its worth giving the Korean brands another look.
xcmskim4 the support from LG and Samsung is lacking compared with Mitsubishi. Can’t even find a vendor in my neck of the woods due to the crappy support the vendors got from LG.
Getting parts for any mini split seems to be a nightmare at times. Half the companies produce one for a few years and completely discontinue it. I’d rather stick with the couple that I can get parts for....
James K , They're are only around 5 mother companies that make mini splits although there are many labels. Mitsubishi and Fujitsu are the only ones that aren't junk. Many lines discontinue due to fast changing technology and warranty claims due to inferior products. I've seen more than one discontinue due to overwhelming warranty claims that forced bankruptcy on that line but not the mother company. No parts available on a 2 year old system with a 5-10 year warranty and the manufacturer tells you tough luck . Since Copeland no longer holds the patent on scroll compressors a lot of junk has been put out there. If it doesn't have a Copeland compressor it's junk. Easy rule. Trane, Carrier ,York ,Ruud, Goodman, Mitsubishi and Fujitsu all use Copeland compressors. Mitsubishi and Fujitsu cost more but I wouldn't consider istalling any other. It's not just the compressor but overall qauilty control however if they skimp on the compressor they certainly are cutting cost wherever possible.
Cody Thompson , I've seriously had to wait on parts from Japan or California, (im on the east coast ) but that's so with all mini splits. They have gotten better about keeping parts closer to dealers with the higher demand.
Zen mind Yea they are definitely getting better on parts. Nothing is more infuriating than trying to tell a customer how ridiculous the long wait time is gonna be on a part if the particular unit is even being supported anymore. Especially considering that all the mini-splits I typically work on are for IT rooms. Overall I’ve had very few problems with them other than condensate issues, typically the initial install is the culprit where they are trying to run too high of a lift for the internal condensate pump to pump properly so it runs until it dies. That are algae build up from someone not maintaining the equipment properly. Gravity feeding in external pumps seem alright but I’ve had problems with those too.
Main complaint with mini-splits is how they cram 10lbs of shit in a 2lb bag but I suppose if they were any bigger than one of the main selling points of a small footprint would be diminished.
All equipment is turning to shit whether it be due to cost savings on parts, poor engineering, are terrible QC. Our mechanical division replaced a bunch of Trane WSHP’s a couple years ago and installed bacnet controls on everything. I’ve already had to replace two TXV’s due to how the factory ran the bulb, leaked from vibration. Had to replace 6 contactors, one of them didn’t catch in time and just replaced a compressor because of it.
Smaller RTU’s are even now getting residential style ECM motors I’m assuming due to the regulation changes. Had two Trane RTU’s on the same building with a bad module within a year of installation. Nothing wrong at all with the motor itself, but they won’t sell you just the module ffs. Even had a control board in a brand new voyager randomly short cycling both compressors, and kicking the inducer motor on in random intervals whether there’s a call or not. Strangest thing I’ve ever seen....