don't worry, most people are smart enough. thanks for the tips, I will definitely try using higher iso values from now on... i was always a bit afraid to
It isn't fair! Why weren't you there ten years ago when I was starting to learn about digital photography? You are an incredible teacher and your explanations are always clear, concise and easy to understand. Thanks again for putting these helpful videos together. I can't wait for next week's video!
I'm a concert photographer and more often than not I'm shooting at 1/250, f2.8 and ISO 6400. I've had artists use my work on albums and merchandise. I can say first hand, don't be afraid of high ISO.
I'm an instructor in a different discipline who dabbles in photography. Simon d'Entremont is one of the best youtube teachers I've ever seen, succint and with great delivery. Subscribed.
Wow, a creator who gets straight to the point, clearly and precisely, and also takes the time to read through the comments and answer questions. You got my sub! Great job!
I just get t my first camera. It is the Nikon Z fc and you have fought me how to use my camera you are the best teacher and explain things so understandably and clearly, you’re work is remarkable and beautiful. I have a sweet spot for wildlife photography especially birds…hummingbirds are my favorite thing to shoot. I will post pictures when I learn how to get them from my camera too my phone or computer lol. I am brand new to this and I’m loving it. My father is French Canadian and they are from various parts of the country from BC to Montreal Quebec and Ontario my dad was born in Toronto ❤ I would love to shoot in Canada it’s my dream 😊 thanks so much for sharing your experience and knowledge you rock!
I hate to publicly gush, but... oh my gosh, this is undoubtedly one of the BEST tutorials I have come across in my time as an "I'm stuck forever as an Amateur because I'll never know how they get those incredibly sharp pictures" photographer. Your ability to explain things - and your willingness to go against "conventional wisdom" in explaining what ISO is and how it works - as well as your pace of teaching has been so incredibly helpful AND encouraging. We're just now entering the winter season here in east Texas, so the opportunities for photography have almost completely come to a screeching halt, but I can hardly wait to get out and try some of these techniques you've explained…especially the next time I want to go out and try to capture a sunset/sunrise. Again, I really feel silly "gushing" like this on a public forum, but thank you so much for sharing your experience with the rest of us. This has been one of the best tutorials I've come across yet and I genuinely appreciate you taking time to help those of us who are in a real struggle to master this craft. Thank you!
PRO TIP: go to 14:43 if you are familiar with why a photo has noise. This is where it explaines how to remove noise. Thank you for this video Simon I've learned a lot
Thinking about the ISO as a "messenger" of how much light is available is a really helpful concept. I will definitely keep this In mind when shooting in the future.
I have been using my first camera these days with the settings that other videos are saying, low ISO, low exposure for better editing, and now with this information I have better performance in low light environments, as a beginner photographer I could say this information is gold
Simon, You are a WONDERFUL and gifted teacher. You really have a way with communicating and sharing complex information in such a digestible way and your tutorials are top notch! It's clear you put a lot of time and energy into your videos and it is deeply appreciated! Thank you so much for the amazing high quality content you create ! ❤😊👌👍🙌
When someone knows something very well, he/she have the natural ability to easily explain it and make others understand it without any problem. Tyvm Simon!🙏🙏🏽🙏🏿
Since getting into sports photography, in particular downhill mountain biking, the learning curve around ISO has been a long, hard ride. This video has given me even more insight, thank you. Friends have always told me to shoot as close to ISO 100, but after underexposing 1000s of images, and trying to edit it out, I eventually learnt that ISO wasn't my enemy. I generally shoot on manual and have recently increased auto ISO from 4000 to 6400. Still producing clean images, particularly for web viewing, and even recieved some prints that look a million times better than underexposed / over edited.
I'm really blown away at how well you explain the whole issue of shooting in low light. Thank you for being such a good communicator about this challenge. Explained concisely, with examples and specs on f-stop and ISO are truly helpful. What a lesson.
Thanks, Simon, for a great and informative clip. There's so much art AND science in photography so it's truly refreshing to watch someone who can explain concepts clearly!
Simon, I can very easily understand why I subscribed to your channel. The content that you deliver for a newbie like me is incredible and I make a point of always rewatching each of your videos again, once I've had time to absorb what you're sharing. Thankyou millions
Thanks so much for these great tips, Simon! I took your advice and shot some elk at twilight tonight, first several at ISO 1250 (1/125 s) and the rest at ISO 2500 (1/250 s). In contrast to elk shots I took last night (ISO from 200 to 680), tonights' elk eyes were crystal sharp and glistening. Gorgeous! And all because of your suggestion to embrace high ISO! I so appreciate all your videos!
Some channels in RUclips need "Gold video" icon because of the informations they share... Believe me, after watching some videos here you are enlightening like you met god. This 19 min. about light and the sensitivity is actually equivalent to hours of hours lessons and thousands of photos. Thank you, Mr. d'Enremont.
Fantastic tutorial! Your practical, no nonsense, no mumbo-jumbo delivery is exactly what most of us want and need! So easy to follow and comprehend ... I am inspired and motivated. Thank you! Cheers! With love from Atlanta.
Thank you for your channel. I have been doing photography for about 15 years... at least seriously, but I still find nuggets in your videos to help me improve. However, while I do agree it is low light that forces high ISO, there is a source of noise that you may not be aware of. Depending upon how ISO is implemented in the camera, it can be a source of noise as the ISO is like the gain control on a radio receiver. It increases the sensitivity of the sensor by amplifying the electronic signal produced by the sensor. You may not be aware, that all electronic components generate noise. If you turn an old TV set to a dead channel, you will see snow on the screen. On a radio, it is the hissing sound that you hear when there is no signal as the automatic gain control increases the amplification of the signal. So, a resistor in a circuit can create 'noise' that, in a camera, manifests itself as noise on the photo. So, high ISO, i.e. gain in the signal amplifier can be a source of noise. I worked for 35 years in electrical engineering and have measured just this phenomenon. Please do not think I am criticising you, far from it. I enjoy your channel and have learned much from you. Please keep up the good work. It is much appreciated!
Thanks for the addition! Yes, where they place the analog-to-digital converters and how much circuitry is involved can really impact noise too. lots of causes or things that can make it worse!
Brilliant! Love other Photographers such as Steve Perry and Mark Denney. As much as I like them, you have provided a Vlog that nobody else seems to have. Appreciate all that you do. PJ
You explain so much so clearly! Thank you for covering many aspects. I bookmarked and re-watched this session to absorb and remember even more than the first time. I'm learning and experimenting in preparation for my daughter's wedding in 6 months. I've seen a video tour of the chapel to get an idea of how bright it seems. There will also be a party at their hotel suite with floor-to-ceiling windows in the later afternoon into the evening. For casual shots I want to avoid flash so I'm not a distraction. I already learned from another of your videos to use auto-ISO with manual aperture and manual shutter speed. My lens is a Sony 18-135mm with stabilization and has variable aperture f3.5 at 18mm but f6.3 at around 100mm and higher. I had been trying f8 to f11 for pretty good depth of field, shutter speed at 1/focal-length, but of course with less light the ISO has to go high up. People don't usually move around as much as wildlife but to avoid subject motion blur I may need to shoot 1/250th instead of 1/125 or 1/160. Need more light, and/or let ISO go higher. I really like your advice about letting ISO get higher as the shot is taken, rather than trying to increase the exposure in post. I had been disappointed as I used software in post that noise seemed to be accentuated and colors in darker regions were distorted as I raised up exposure. I do use Topaz to reduce noise, and also ON1 Photo Raw after that. At around 13:50 in your video you touch on that that lower MPx capable cameras don't often provide an advantage regarding noise. I didn't catch you talking about settings within a camera regarding their pixel count. My Sony A6000 has an APS-C sensor and normally I shoot 24 MPx. I know that a full frame sensor has around 2.5 the area, and some models and brands may take 32, 45 or 60 MPx. At 60 the pixel size would be like my camera. At 32, the pixel size would be about 1.9x of mine. What do you think about setting my camera to take images at 12 MPx instead of 24 MPx? Does that really allow each pixel to use about double the area of the sensor and with more photons achieve a higher signal to noise ratio? For indoor shots with my zoom lens I expect to be able to fill the frame with my subject, and not need to crop tightly in post (as I almost always do with wildlife as I'm far away.)
Sometimes you just have to accept that your picture is going to be noisy, because the alternative is not taking a photo. My best photo of an urban fox (so far) was shot at 11pm with the only source of light being a single lamp post quite some distance away, I used my 6D and a vintage 300mm f/4 and I had to shoot 1/30th of a second on a tripod at ISO 25,600 but the alternative was not getting the shot and it turned out pretty great with the right post processing actually. I find that having a longer lens is better than having a faster lens to a point, if you can't get closer to your subject. The details in your photo covering a larger area of the sensor makes them clearer than the slight reduction in noise going between even f/1.8 and f/4 if it's choosing between say an 85mm and a 300mm at the same distance the 300mm will make a better photo at f/4 than the 85mm at f/1.8 because you can actually see the details.
Hi Simon, first up I have to say “ your coming across as a bloody nice bloke, if your ever out my way it’s my shout, I watched quite a few of your videos and what stuck me more than anything, besides your professionalism, is your ability to make your audience feel at ease, on the same page, love your tutorials, you have helped me so much, thank you.
I just upgraded from a 5D MkII to an R6. I had no idea what I was missing. I usually didn't want to cross an ISO of 800 on the MkII. I think these new bodies have opened the door to low light/high speed photography at a significantly lower price than 10 or 15 years ago. I would've needed a big fast $12k prime to get usable photos in low light with a 5D, but now you can buy a $2k body and make usable images with a $1k lens! I love it!
I shot one of my favorite night architecture photos, handheld, on a Nikon D5500 @ 22mm, f/3.8, 1/200 sec, ISO 10,000! High ISO can really help you out. Thank you so much for explaining what I've been trying to wrap my head around for years.
Great video. Im new to photography and your tutorials have been the best explained i have seen. You have certainly helped me improve and get rid of some of the myths and bad habits i picked up along the way. Thanks Simon.
I shoot a lot of live music. Sometimes I get very good light but in smaller venues, that isn't the case. I shoot in manual with auto-ISO like described in the video. I often have to make adjustments to keep things sharp but I get best results using this approach. Concerts often have deep shadows and I have learned the trick to keep things as noise free as possible and that is to let the shadows be shadows. Often people are too hung up on recovering data from shadows but I don't bother. In concert photography you will have both light and shadow and that is just fine.
I've shot live music on film Scotch 640 tungsten pushed a stop. Noisy as hell, but a bit of grit and grain/noise on live music is better than motion blur or DOF problams so high ISO doesn't bother me unduly.
I've shot live music in small venues extensively for 12 years on digital and a number of years in the pre-digital age on an old Olympus OM-40 And I get young photographers asking me all the time what settings I use looking for that 'fast track' to great images, my reply is always the same and your comment on Auto ISO proves that there is no 'right way' or 'wrong way' to shoot live music, its what works for each person as they develop their own style. Personally i would never use Auto ISO, as on my Nikon D750, once things start going past ISO 3200 the dreaded noise creeps in. But I know people who shoot the same venue as me will happily use ISO 6400 and beyond but tolerate the noise and try and mitigate it in post. I would also never shoot manual, simply because the camera can make the decisions far quicker than I ever will be able to, by the time I have realised I can tweak the aperture or shutter speed the lighting has changed and that moment has been lost. As I say no 'right' or 'wrong' way to do it
@@neilmccarty944 I would rather get the shot with a bit of noise than to miss it altogether. I also use a d750 and shoot often at 8000 or 9000 ISO, I also have keepers at 12,800. A little grain doesn’t hurt a concert shot.
I upgraded from an 11 year old d5100 to a Zf three months ago, and the difference in ISO performance has been incredible. I did a home shoot with two of our dogs at ISO 12,800. The photos have noise, obviously, but they feel more like film, and it isn't distracting. They turned out beautifully, and definitely good enough to print. Taking the high ISO advice to heart for sure
When I was shooting general amateur, I eventually fell into a routine that I called "shooting 800-800." I found that film speed ISO 800 for my 120 and 35 mm cameras (today's digital "medium" and "full frame" equiv.) and keeping the shutter on 800 made for intuitive photography without even having to break out the light meter. I eventually just simply "knew" where to turn the dial on the aperture to correctly expose the shot, based on the available light that I was seeing. I didn't care whether the "bokeh" in the photo would be at its maximum state of creaminess -- I cared about a sharp, well exposed subject -- and even without a light meter, I almost never missed the shot. I am about to get my first digital camera, and I will soon find out if this strategy will work well with digital, too. I expect it will.
You earned my sub when you explained how people won't raise their iso's but adjusts it later in another program, i am GUILTY of this and you taught me it is better to open my aperture and shoot longer instead...bloody brilliant !! I love learning new things like this.
As usual, instructive, to the point, clear. I always learn something new. I really appreciate the work and knowledge it takes to put these videos together. A real "masterclass".
I’m a beginner photographer and it is very daunting so I just thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and on this platform where it’s easily accessible. I learned so much from you in this video.
Nice to see you smile when mentioning the topic of iso! Great videos and many thanks for taking time out of your time to make these awesome video. Ciao!
Bravo Simon for telling it like it is. I'm shooting mostly wildlife with a Panasonic FZ 1,000 which has a 20mp 1" sensor. Single lens 24mm to 400 mm (constant F4). Always in manual with auto ISO which tops out at 12,800 in auto. I shoot at the lowest possible speed but often that is 2500th. I completely agree the worst noise is caused by underexposed dark areas when you try to lighten them up. Never underexpose to hold down your ISO. In poor light keep your histogram to the right side. I use AI software to effortlessly remove virtually all the noise and preserve all the detail in my raw files. That software is the biggest bargain going.
@@kadavyI believe that DXO Photo Lab elite edition has the best AI noise reduction (Deep Prime). Photo lab does sell a standalone version of the noise reduction software but the word is it's not as good as deep prime that is included in the elite edition. Deep prime only works with raw images. It is virtually fully automatic with generally no input required by the user. I use topaz Labs sharpen AI for sharpening and I also use topaz Labs Gigapixel. With the gigapixel I will often take a crop as small as half a megapixel out of a 20 megapixel image and then enlarge that crop back up to 15 to 20 megapixels in size and have a perfectly usable image.
Thank you for creating this content. I loved the explanation of noise. This video, along with your aperture video, really helped me understand the fundamentals much more, and will enable me to troubleshoot my images to make them better. It’s easy to see the issues, but not how to fix them. Thank you and please keep making this thoughtful, concise practical content!!!!
Answering the question at 13:43. The highest ISO photo I've taken that I'm proud of was taken at ISO/ASA 800. I took it on a Canon A1 using Portra 800 film. Early on in my day at a WWII event I shot a C-53 Skytrooper on the apron at the airport the event was happening at. Later on when it was brighter and the airshow was going on I started using Fujifilm C-200 and Superia X-Tra 400 to shoot the planes flying overhead against the bright sky. For that I had my Aperture stopped all the way down to try to get the slowest shutter speed so that I would not freeze the props. It was a fun day. Also, Portra 800 is the fastest film I have shot thus far in my photographic journey.
Great video, Simon! Love all your good tips and information! I believe that in photogrpahy it's really key to learn from experts from you and others who have experience to pass along, especially in bird photography. So, thank you and I'm looking forward to your next video! :)
Great Video - I Learned a valuable lesson on high ISO event. I was shooting high school indoor basketball game. The lights were “fair” and obviously no flash. I used a Canon 1Ds and shot in RAW. I was able to get by with f2.8 and 1/800 and auto ISO. As I checked the ISO while shooting, they were 10,000 or 12,500, so I was concerned. But the exposures were good, and freezing action was good. When I processed in Lightroom, I used the noise reduction and sharpening tools. This was the first time I shot at 10,000 ISO and really surprised at how good the photos came out. I was always fearful of higher ISO, but not now. Again, great information.
Absolutely the best summary I’ve heard on handling noise. It took a while to figure out the tools and I am using many of those techniques you’ve described while shooting and in post processing. When I finally went to manual shooting without fear of “auto-ISO,” the number of usable photos increased. I do use exposure compensation on top of that. Example, maybe +1.0 eV for dark birds or birds against a skylit background, and -1.0 eV for white birds on a bright day to keep from burning out the highlights. I still struggle with indoor shooting. Interesting how our eyes adapt quickly to indoor lighting and our cameras let us know it’s not as bright as we think. Thank you for this video.
Wow Simon! So much information on ISO and noise reduction. I'll definitely be watching this video again to make sure that I fully absorb as much as I can. The vast knowledge here is so useful in gaining a much deeper understanding of noise and actual impact of ISO vs light.
Hi Simon, another great video, with a clear roadmap to better picture taking. I believe many older photographers ( like myself ) equated ISO in digital cameras to that of the actual film we used , where grain of the film most definitely increased as you went up the ISO/ ASA scale. Shooting Kodak 32 ISO/ ASA Panatomic X vs Tri-X at 400 ISO/ ASA and sometimes pushed in development to 1600..sure increased the grain / noise. It was the major reason I switched to medium format for wedding photography many years back. It’s a brave new world with digital, old ideas or myths die hard, but your explanation has helped this old dog learn another new trick. Lol😊. Cheers Mike…in snow swamped Cape Breton.
Simon, I can very easily understand why I subscribed to your channel. The content that you deliver for a newbie like me is incredible and I make a point of always rewatching each of your videos again, once I've had time to absorb what you're sharing. Thankyou millions 🙂
Hi Simon. I just subbed to your channel. The one tip that did it was about noise in different ISO vs exp., and result of raising shadow in darkroom. You really clarified that concept. Also I like your style. No nonsense. Confident. Personable. Gets right down to business.👍👍👍 I'm shooting with a Nk D500. It's sensor is weighted for action, speed, so it tends to blow highlights. Conversely, it holds detail in dark shadow. I shoot a stop under when bright contrasty. In the darkroom the shadows have very little, almost undetectable noise. Even when raised. After this excellent tutorial I can fine tune my technique even more.
As a Olympus shooter, I long ago stopped worrying about noise (within reason), simply because I had to. In the end, my best shots haven't always been the cleanest. I get for nature trophy shots it's the detail that matters, but if you've captured a "moment" of drama or cuteness or whatever, it's almost irrelevant, and sometimes it's even a "feature". That said, the stabilization lets me hand hold 600mm equivalent at 1/125th or even lower, so that can be leveraged to reduce ISO as well.
This has changed my way of looking at my camera. I am just starting back into photography in my late 50s after having done some in my 20s on 35mm film. With film your iso was always a fixed value of the film. Having run a mostly manual film camera for years I understand aperture and shutter speed and their effects but variable iso has really changed things for me. Your series has helped me a lot. Your presentation and explanations are first rate. Thanks for sharing all this knowledge.
Great tips and reminders on dealing with high noise images. As I wildlife photographer who shoots in low light often, it is a constant battle to not under expose my images and end up with even more noise.
Love your videos! Thanks to you, I learned such magical things. I am now amazed at how the photos have improved in just six months, from completely blurred and dark photos of such large birds as swans or geese just a few meters from me to photos of a goldcrest in the shade with ISO 6400 and almost no noise.
I shoot auto ISO but cap it at 8000. You're right, as long as I don't try to crop much or overly lighten the darks, it still looks good, especially for online viewing.
Seeing the difference in light between a sunny day and a starry night really makes you appreciate the human eye. I've had nights where it feels like the moon and stars are roasting the side of my face and I can't sleep. Yet if you wanted to take a photo of that "too bright" room you'd need the shutter open for several seconds, and you'd be fighting grainy noise and all sorts of issues. If your aperture was limited to human iris size, forget it. Yet we see in 200fps+ VIDEO in that light.
I've been fooled all my life when everyone told me that high iso made more noise and I always thought there was something not quite right. Now that you've clarified this fact, I think what you said is completely logical.
My 2 highest "iso" pictures were ~ 64000 (yes 64 thousand) Shot on Pentacon 6 - Kodak TriX - stand processed - candle light illuminated but from a distance... Even with eyes it was dark, most dificult part of picture taking was focusing.
For indoor sports i have no problem pushing my ISO to 12800 on my Canon IDX II. Its a bit noisy but i just incorporate it to my style. It is almost like film grain, it ads alot of texture to the images especially in black and white. And for wildlife i have no problem shooting at 10000-12800.
Awesome video. Some advice here is directly opposite of some of the things I used to do but they make perfect sence. Looking forward to experiment with it!
I am an experienced photographer who bought his first SLR in 1959 but it has taken your video to wean me off the idea that high ISO= noise. With film, of course, this was the case, but I look forward to putting my new knowledge into practice.
Hello Simon, thanks for this eyes opening video. I didn't realize that high ISO is not responsible for noisy photos. I actually have photo of squirrel in dark woods which is perfectly OK and is taken with ISO 6400 on APS-C camera (Sony alpha 6500). And I also have other photos of animals taken on the same camera with ISO 800 which are too noisy because they are too dark. Thanks again for the content you are sharing with us. I like the rapid flow of your videos, no blind pauses, that's what I appreciate. 👍
ISO 102400 on a Sony A7S III, a dance show in a very dimly lit bar. Nice looking photos with creamy backgrounds from Christmas lights. Nice chat here. I've noticed more are talking about using denoise processing and worrying less about high ISO, especially if you aren't shooting for National Geographic
So so helpful Simon, can’t thank you enough. Such clear explanations - you’ve really brought back my enthusiasm. I’m telling all my photography friends about you 😃
Just reviewing my pictures from my shoot this morning at 6:30 am. Once again, I came to your video library for a solution to the error I encountered in most of my photos. Too low of an aperture setting for the amount of available light is the culprit. Back to the field in the morning with more education! The Ducks, Geese, and Cranes are still migrating, so I have some time to nail this. Thanks again!
I love-hate how the cameras and lenses are in focus while you're not. It really amplifies what you're saying about the amount of light available indoors, and it also makes me think that high iso can sometimes be better than using a large aperture. I really liked what you said about high iso not being the reason for noise, but rather a symptom of low light conditions, I will now increase the maximum value that I allow auto-iso to pick on my sony a7r iii from 6400 to 12800. And from 12800 to 16000 on my sony a7 iii. Of course I will still try to use the longest exposure and widest aperture that I can "afford".
Great point about iso. Another tip that is more about personal taste is that sometimes noise isn't that bad. One of my favorites photos was taken at 12800 with no noise reduction. It was completely dark and my subject's face was lit only by her phone screen. Her face was well-exposed but the dark background was super noisy, which I thought was a great effect.
The explanation of iso being merely the messenger of darkness was excellent. I'm just starting out really. Usually shoot auto iso and control aperture and shutter. You've given me a much greater understanding of the process. Wish I had watched this a couple of days ago before capturing a coyote late in the day! Cheers!
Found one of your videos randomly in my feed and then watched another. I'm impressed! You present a ton of useful into in a straightforward and practical manner with useful samples from your work. Wow! Thanks, I've subbed and look forward to more!
As somebody who somewhat specializes in astrophotography, this was still pretty interesting for more action-rich photography. One thing I'll note for astrophotography in particular is to get to as dark of skies as possible! That really increases the contrast in the sky and allows you to get much more detail, even though the scene on average is technically darker. I definitely used to severely underexpose images because I thought high ISO was the issue, I think it's a frequent issue for beginning photographers in dark situations.
Man, this is one tremendous tutorial!!!!! I can't even go into the great detail you simplify for folks!!!!! Some of the tips at the end on noise reduction are exceptionally important and little known... I REALLY enjoyed this video and learned some good new techniques!!!!!
Hi Simon, Thanks for the video I enjoy them a lot. The highest ISO I use and have had good results is 12800 on my OM System OM-1. Sensor tech has come a long way 😀 Phil
This was pretty much the best explanation of ISO that I've heard. Nice. Also I took one of my best photos yesterday on a APS-C camera using ISO 12800 :)
Thank you for this! I just purchased my full frame sensor camera a couple of months ago and the Lightroom tips towards the end of this video are especially helpful for cleaning up my high-ISO shots!
Only recently have I stopped fearing raising my ISO. Before your channel, I would always shoot no more than 400, which ruined all of my forests shots. Now as I've learned and improved, I just got one my best shots ever of a Red-shouldered Hawk on my 7D MkII with ISO 3200. A few months ago, I wouldn't have even tried it. Thank you as always!
I found you on YT yesterday and I'm impressed! Such a great job! Photos, tips, everything is super useful for me. It makes me more motivated to taking photos again, thanks :)
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Please ignore all these “Text me…” messages…they’re not from me!!!!!
I know. I'm reporting them. Telegram is a dead giveaway.
Reported it too. 🤔 Disappointed though, I mean what if it was a box of Twirls in the so-called mystery box...??? LOL 🤣
Not to worry. Yours is not the only channel hit by these low-life scammers. RUclips has to play a part too in stopping this practice.
@@psoon04286 agree!
don't worry, most people are smart enough.
thanks for the tips, I will definitely try using higher iso values from now on... i was always a bit afraid to
It isn't fair! Why weren't you there ten years ago when I was starting to learn about digital photography? You are an incredible teacher and your explanations are always clear, concise and easy to understand. Thanks again for putting these helpful videos together. I can't wait for next week's video!
Wow, thank you!
Same thoughts 👌👍👍😊
Same for me! These are the best videos I’ve come across explaining digital photography! I am soooo glad 🙏🏻
@@evelynb2321 Welcome!
I thought the same lol ! i'm about to venture out in coming days...
I'm a concert photographer and more often than not I'm shooting at 1/250, f2.8 and ISO 6400. I've had artists use my work on albums and merchandise. I can say first hand, don't be afraid of high ISO.
Right!
at what number is shutter speed considered fast, is it 1/250 or even lower?
@@pannonianfit1582 It's a bit subjective, but I would say a fast shutter is anything fast enough to freeze the motion of your subject.
@@pannonianfit1582depends greatly on the lens too.
Thats not all that high on mirrorless or somewhat modern cameras to me. High is anything close to or at 12800 to me
I'm an instructor in a different discipline who dabbles in photography. Simon d'Entremont is one of the best youtube teachers I've ever seen, succint and with great delivery. Subscribed.
Very kind!
As an amateur photographer, this explanation of ISO has made the most sense to me after watching so many other tutorials.
Im still an amateur after 25 yrs. Always learning 👍
Wow, a creator who gets straight to the point, clearly and precisely, and also takes the time to read through the comments and answer questions. You got my sub! Great job!
Thanks!
Yes I noticed this. Too many big channels ignore us do this very welcome
I just get t my first camera. It is the Nikon Z fc and you have fought me how to use my camera you are the best teacher and explain things so understandably and clearly, you’re work is remarkable and beautiful. I have a sweet spot for wildlife photography especially birds…hummingbirds are my favorite thing to shoot. I will post pictures when I learn how to get them from my camera too my phone or computer lol. I am brand new to this and I’m loving it. My father is French Canadian and they are from various parts of the country from BC to Montreal Quebec and Ontario my dad was born in Toronto ❤ I would love to shoot in Canada it’s my dream 😊 thanks so much for sharing your experience and knowledge you rock!
I hate to publicly gush, but... oh my gosh, this is undoubtedly one of the BEST tutorials I have come across in my time as an "I'm stuck forever as an Amateur because I'll never know how they get those incredibly sharp pictures" photographer. Your ability to explain things - and your willingness to go against "conventional wisdom" in explaining what ISO is and how it works - as well as your pace of teaching has been so incredibly helpful AND encouraging. We're just now entering the winter season here in east Texas, so the opportunities for photography have almost completely come to a screeching halt, but I can hardly wait to get out and try some of these techniques you've explained…especially the next time I want to go out and try to capture a sunset/sunrise. Again, I really feel silly "gushing" like this on a public forum, but thank you so much for sharing your experience with the rest of us. This has been one of the best tutorials I've come across yet and I genuinely appreciate you taking time to help those of us who are in a real struggle to master this craft. Thank you!
Thanks Steve! You’re more than welcome!
Steve, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution? Thanks
I came here to gush but Steve said it all so well!
PRO TIP: go to 14:43 if you are familiar with why a photo has noise. This is where it explaines how to remove noise.
Thank you for this video Simon I've learned a lot
Thanks!
The dots explanation of noise and ISO is the best I've ever seen. Wonderfully explained! 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Thinking about the ISO as a "messenger" of how much light is available is a really helpful concept. I will definitely keep this In mind when shooting in the future.
Great!
I have been using my first camera these days with the settings that other videos are saying, low ISO, low exposure for better editing, and now with this information I have better performance in low light environments, as a beginner photographer I could say this information is gold
Great to hear!
Simon,
You are a WONDERFUL and gifted teacher. You really have a way with communicating and sharing complex information in such a digestible way and your tutorials are top notch! It's clear you put a lot of time and energy into your videos and it is deeply appreciated! Thank you so much for the amazing high quality content you create ! ❤😊👌👍🙌
True. I wish my high school chemistry teacher was like Simon. I would probably become biochemist today as I was fascinated by it.
This is by far the best youtube tutorial on low light photography period!
Thank you for sharing everything
When someone knows something very well, he/she have the natural ability to easily explain it and make others understand it without any problem.
Tyvm Simon!🙏🙏🏽🙏🏿
Too kind!
Very good explanation of everything. No unnecessary water, no stupid advices, only pure practice.
Thanks very much!
Since getting into sports photography, in particular downhill mountain biking, the learning curve around ISO has been a long, hard ride. This video has given me even more insight, thank you. Friends have always told me to shoot as close to ISO 100, but after underexposing 1000s of images, and trying to edit it out, I eventually learnt that ISO wasn't my enemy. I generally shoot on manual and have recently increased auto ISO from 4000 to 6400. Still producing clean images, particularly for web viewing, and even recieved some prints that look a million times better than underexposed / over edited.
Excellent!
I'm really blown away at how well you explain the whole issue of shooting in low light. Thank you for being such a good communicator about this challenge. Explained concisely, with examples and specs on f-stop and ISO are truly helpful. What a lesson.
Thanks, Simon, for a great and informative clip. There's so much art AND science in photography so it's truly refreshing to watch someone who can explain concepts clearly!
Simon, I can very easily understand why I subscribed to your channel. The content that you deliver for a newbie like me is incredible and I make a point of always rewatching each of your videos again, once I've had time to absorb what you're sharing. Thankyou millions
Welcome aboard!
Thanks so much for these great tips, Simon! I took your advice and shot some elk at twilight tonight, first several at ISO 1250 (1/125 s) and the rest at ISO 2500 (1/250 s). In contrast to elk shots I took last night (ISO from 200 to 680), tonights' elk eyes were crystal sharp and glistening. Gorgeous! And all because of your suggestion to embrace high ISO! I so appreciate all your videos!
Some channels in RUclips need "Gold video" icon because of the informations they share... Believe me, after watching some videos here you are enlightening like you met god. This 19 min. about light and the sensitivity is actually equivalent to hours of hours lessons and thousands of photos. Thank you, Mr. d'Enremont.
Wow, thanks
Fantastic tutorial! Your practical, no nonsense, no mumbo-jumbo delivery is exactly what most of us want and need! So easy to follow and comprehend ... I am inspired and motivated. Thank you! Cheers! With love from Atlanta.
You're very welcome!
Stick with this guy, he's giving the viewer immeasurable value at no cost!
Thank you for your channel. I have been doing photography for about 15 years... at least seriously, but I still find nuggets in your videos to help me improve. However, while I do agree it is low light that forces high ISO, there is a source of noise that you may not be aware of. Depending upon how ISO is implemented in the camera, it can be a source of noise as the ISO is like the gain control on a radio receiver. It increases the sensitivity of the sensor by amplifying the electronic signal produced by the sensor. You may not be aware, that all electronic components generate noise. If you turn an old TV set to a dead channel, you will see snow on the screen. On a radio, it is the hissing sound that you hear when there is no signal as the automatic gain control increases the amplification of the signal. So, a resistor in a circuit can create 'noise' that, in a camera, manifests itself as noise on the photo. So, high ISO, i.e. gain in the signal amplifier can be a source of noise. I worked for 35 years in electrical engineering and have measured just this phenomenon. Please do not think I am criticising you, far from it. I enjoy your channel and have learned much from you. Please keep up the good work. It is much appreciated!
Thanks for the addition! Yes, where they place the analog-to-digital converters and how much circuitry is involved can really impact noise too. lots of causes or things that can make it worse!
Absolutely the best. The information you put out is so easy to pick up. Clear and no bull. Thanks Simon.
Very welcome
Brilliant! Love other Photographers such as Steve Perry and Mark Denney. As much as I like them, you have provided a Vlog that nobody else seems to have. Appreciate all that you do. PJ
You explain so much so clearly! Thank you for covering many aspects. I bookmarked and re-watched this session to absorb and remember even more than the first time.
I'm learning and experimenting in preparation for my daughter's wedding in 6 months. I've seen a video tour of the chapel to get an idea of how bright it seems. There will also be a party at their hotel suite with floor-to-ceiling windows in the later afternoon into the evening. For casual shots I want to avoid flash so I'm not a distraction.
I already learned from another of your videos to use auto-ISO with manual aperture and manual shutter speed. My lens is a Sony 18-135mm with stabilization and has variable aperture f3.5 at 18mm but f6.3 at around 100mm and higher. I had been trying f8 to f11 for pretty good depth of field, shutter speed at 1/focal-length, but of course with less light the ISO has to go high up. People don't usually move around as much as wildlife but to avoid subject motion blur I may need to shoot 1/250th instead of 1/125 or 1/160. Need more light, and/or let ISO go higher.
I really like your advice about letting ISO get higher as the shot is taken, rather than trying to increase the exposure in post. I had been disappointed as I used software in post that noise seemed to be accentuated and colors in darker regions were distorted as I raised up exposure. I do use Topaz to reduce noise, and also ON1 Photo Raw after that.
At around 13:50 in your video you touch on that that lower MPx capable cameras don't often provide an advantage regarding noise. I didn't catch you talking about settings within a camera regarding their pixel count. My Sony A6000 has an APS-C sensor and normally I shoot 24 MPx. I know that a full frame sensor has around 2.5 the area, and some models and brands may take 32, 45 or 60 MPx. At 60 the pixel size would be like my camera. At 32, the pixel size would be about 1.9x of mine. What do you think about setting my camera to take images at 12 MPx instead of 24 MPx? Does that really allow each pixel to use about double the area of the sensor and with more photons achieve a higher signal to noise ratio? For indoor shots with my zoom lens I expect to be able to fill the frame with my subject, and not need to crop tightly in post (as I almost always do with wildlife as I'm far away.)
Sometimes you just have to accept that your picture is going to be noisy, because the alternative is not taking a photo.
My best photo of an urban fox (so far) was shot at 11pm with the only source of light being a single lamp post quite some distance away, I used my 6D and a vintage 300mm f/4 and I had to shoot 1/30th of a second on a tripod at ISO 25,600 but the alternative was not getting the shot and it turned out pretty great with the right post processing actually.
I find that having a longer lens is better than having a faster lens to a point, if you can't get closer to your subject. The details in your photo covering a larger area of the sensor makes them clearer than the slight reduction in noise going between even f/1.8 and f/4 if it's choosing between say an 85mm and a 300mm at the same distance the 300mm will make a better photo at f/4 than the 85mm at f/1.8 because you can actually see the details.
Hi Simon, first up I have to say “ your coming across as a bloody nice bloke, if your ever out my way it’s my shout, I watched quite a few of your videos and what stuck me more than anything, besides your professionalism, is your ability to make your audience feel at ease, on the same page, love your tutorials, you have helped me so much, thank you.
I just upgraded from a 5D MkII to an R6. I had no idea what I was missing. I usually didn't want to cross an ISO of 800 on the MkII. I think these new bodies have opened the door to low light/high speed photography at a significantly lower price than 10 or 15 years ago. I would've needed a big fast $12k prime to get usable photos in low light with a 5D, but now you can buy a $2k body and make usable images with a $1k lens! I love it!
Excellent!
Only 3k 🤣
@@PeterMurrayj It's all relative brother!
I shot one of my favorite night architecture photos, handheld, on a Nikon D5500 @ 22mm, f/3.8, 1/200 sec, ISO 10,000! High ISO can really help you out. Thank you so much for explaining what I've been trying to wrap my head around for years.
I’ve learn so much from your videos in the past 3 weeks. Thank you for all the knowledge you share! Keep up the amazing work.
Thank you! Will do!
Merci Simon. I struggled with low light on a recent Med cruise. Your tips will help me next time in another low light place.
Great video. Im new to photography and your tutorials have been the best explained i have seen. You have certainly helped me improve and get rid of some of the myths and bad habits i picked up along the way. Thanks Simon.
Welcome!
Excellent. Every photographer needs to hear this explanation! Very clear and concise. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I shoot a lot of live music. Sometimes I get very good light but in smaller venues, that isn't the case. I shoot in manual with auto-ISO like described in the video. I often have to make adjustments to keep things sharp but I get best results using this approach. Concerts often have deep shadows and I have learned the trick to keep things as noise free as possible and that is to let the shadows be shadows. Often people are too hung up on recovering data from shadows but I don't bother. In concert photography you will have both light and shadow and that is just fine.
Agree! Thanks for sharing.
I've shot live music on film Scotch 640 tungsten pushed a stop. Noisy as hell, but a bit of grit and grain/noise on live music is better than motion blur or DOF problams so high ISO doesn't bother me unduly.
I've shot live music in small venues extensively for 12 years on digital and a number of years in the pre-digital age on an old Olympus OM-40 And I get young photographers asking me all the time what settings I use looking for that 'fast track' to great images, my reply is always the same and your comment on Auto ISO proves that there is no 'right way' or 'wrong way' to shoot live music, its what works for each person as they develop their own style. Personally i would never use Auto ISO, as on my Nikon D750, once things start going past ISO 3200 the dreaded noise creeps in. But I know people who shoot the same venue as me will happily use ISO 6400 and beyond but tolerate the noise and try and mitigate it in post. I would also never shoot manual, simply because the camera can make the decisions far quicker than I ever will be able to, by the time I have realised I can tweak the aperture or shutter speed the lighting has changed and that moment has been lost. As I say no 'right' or 'wrong' way to do it
@@neilmccarty944 I would rather get the shot with a bit of noise than to miss it altogether. I also use a d750 and shoot often at 8000 or 9000 ISO, I also have keepers at 12,800. A little grain doesn’t hurt a concert shot.
The shadows are the drama in most cases. I shoot live music photography and videography.
I upgraded from an 11 year old d5100 to a Zf three months ago, and the difference in ISO performance has been incredible. I did a home shoot with two of our dogs at ISO 12,800. The photos have noise, obviously, but they feel more like film, and it isn't distracting. They turned out beautifully, and definitely good enough to print. Taking the high ISO advice to heart for sure
Mean function? I don’t know about this function. Where can I find it?
When I was shooting general amateur, I eventually fell into a routine that I called "shooting 800-800." I found that film speed ISO 800 for my 120 and 35 mm cameras (today's digital "medium" and "full frame" equiv.) and keeping the shutter on 800 made for intuitive photography without even having to break out the light meter. I eventually just simply "knew" where to turn the dial on the aperture to correctly expose the shot, based on the available light that I was seeing. I didn't care whether the "bokeh" in the photo would be at its maximum state of creaminess -- I cared about a sharp, well exposed subject -- and even without a light meter, I almost never missed the shot. I am about to get my first digital camera, and I will soon find out if this strategy will work well with digital, too. I expect it will.
Its immense how much you know about photography. Im learning every video. Thank you. Keep it up.
You earned my sub when you explained how people won't raise their iso's but adjusts it later in another program, i am GUILTY of this and you taught me it is better to open my aperture and shoot longer instead...bloody brilliant !! I love learning new things like this.
Excellent!
As usual, instructive, to the point, clear. I always learn something new. I really appreciate the work and knowledge it takes to put these videos together. A real "masterclass".
I’m a beginner photographer and it is very daunting so I just thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and on this platform where it’s easily accessible.
I learned so much from you in this video.
Nice to see you smile when mentioning the topic of iso! Great videos and many thanks for taking time out of your time to make these awesome video. Ciao!
My pleasure!
Bravo Simon for telling it like it is. I'm shooting mostly wildlife with a Panasonic FZ 1,000 which has a 20mp 1" sensor. Single lens 24mm to 400 mm (constant F4). Always in manual with auto ISO which tops out at 12,800 in auto. I shoot at the lowest possible speed but often that is 2500th. I completely agree the worst noise is caused by underexposed dark areas when you try to lighten them up. Never underexpose to hold down your ISO. In poor light keep your histogram to the right side. I use AI software to effortlessly remove virtually all the noise and preserve all the detail in my raw files. That software is the biggest bargain going.
It is indeed great at reducing noise.
Which AI software do you use?
@@kadavyI believe that DXO Photo Lab elite edition has the best AI noise reduction (Deep Prime). Photo lab does sell a standalone version of the noise reduction software but the word is it's not as good as deep prime that is included in the elite edition. Deep prime only works with raw images. It is virtually fully automatic with generally no input required by the user. I use topaz Labs sharpen AI for sharpening and I also use topaz Labs Gigapixel. With the gigapixel I will often take a crop as small as half a megapixel out of a 20 megapixel image and then enlarge that crop back up to 15 to 20 megapixels in size and have a perfectly usable image.
@@stephantafeen2499 Thank you! Lots of stuff for me to look into!
@@kadavy DeNoise. Works great.
I have learned and comprehended more about low light photography in this 5 minute video than all other sources combined. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
I am so guilty of the ISO fear! Great message. Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Topaz Denoise has taken away my ISO fear
The good advice keeps coming thick and fast. Shame I havn't discovered these videos earlier.
Thank you for creating this content. I loved the explanation of noise. This video, along with your aperture video, really helped me understand the fundamentals much more, and will enable me to troubleshoot my images to make them better. It’s easy to see the issues, but not how to fix them. Thank you and please keep making this thoughtful, concise practical content!!!!
You're very welcome!
Answering the question at 13:43. The highest ISO photo I've taken that I'm proud of was taken at ISO/ASA 800. I took it on a Canon A1 using Portra 800 film. Early on in my day at a WWII event I shot a C-53 Skytrooper on the apron at the airport the event was happening at.
Later on when it was brighter and the airshow was going on I started using Fujifilm C-200 and Superia X-Tra 400 to shoot the planes flying overhead against the bright sky. For that I had my Aperture stopped all the way down to try to get the slowest shutter speed so that I would not freeze the props. It was a fun day.
Also, Portra 800 is the fastest film I have shot thus far in my photographic journey.
Cool!
Great video, Simon! Love all your good tips and information! I believe that in photogrpahy it's really key to learn from experts from you and others who have experience to pass along, especially in bird photography. So, thank you and I'm looking forward to your next video! :)
Welcome!
Great Video - I Learned a valuable lesson on high ISO event. I was shooting high school indoor basketball game. The lights were “fair” and obviously no flash. I used a Canon 1Ds and shot in RAW. I was able to get by with f2.8 and 1/800 and auto ISO. As I checked the ISO while shooting, they were 10,000 or 12,500, so I was concerned. But the exposures were good, and freezing action was good. When I processed in Lightroom, I used the noise reduction and sharpening tools. This was the first time I shot at 10,000 ISO and really surprised at how good the photos came out. I was always fearful of higher ISO, but not now. Again, great information.
Absolutely the best summary I’ve heard on handling noise. It took a while to figure out the tools and I am using many of those techniques you’ve described while shooting and in post processing. When I finally went to manual shooting without fear of “auto-ISO,” the number of usable photos increased. I do use exposure compensation on top of that. Example, maybe +1.0 eV for dark birds or birds against a skylit background, and -1.0 eV for white birds on a bright day to keep from burning out the highlights. I still struggle with indoor shooting. Interesting how our eyes adapt quickly to indoor lighting and our cameras let us know it’s not as bright as we think. Thank you for this video.
Excellent!
Wow Simon! So much information on ISO and noise reduction. I'll definitely be watching this video again to make sure that I fully absorb as much as I can. The vast knowledge here is so useful in gaining a much deeper understanding of noise and actual impact of ISO vs light.
Hi Simon, another great video, with a clear roadmap to better picture taking. I believe many older photographers ( like myself ) equated ISO in digital cameras to that of the actual film we used , where grain of the film most definitely increased as you went up the ISO/ ASA scale. Shooting Kodak 32 ISO/ ASA Panatomic X vs Tri-X at 400 ISO/ ASA and sometimes pushed in development to 1600..sure increased the grain / noise. It was the major reason I switched to medium format for wedding photography many years back. It’s a brave new world with digital, old ideas or myths die hard, but your explanation has helped this old dog learn another new trick. Lol😊. Cheers Mike…in snow swamped Cape Breton.
Thank you for sharing this information so glad I found your channel it's like a breath of fresh air
Simon, I can very easily understand why I subscribed to your channel. The content that you deliver for a newbie like me is incredible and I make a point of always rewatching each of your videos again, once I've had time to absorb what you're sharing. Thankyou millions 🙂
Welcome aboard!
incredible video! thank you very much for the amount of details in all the explanations!
Hi Simon. I just subbed to your channel. The one tip that did it was about noise in different ISO vs exp., and result of raising shadow in darkroom. You really clarified that concept. Also I like your style. No nonsense. Confident. Personable. Gets right down to business.👍👍👍
I'm shooting with a Nk D500. It's sensor is weighted for action, speed, so it tends to blow highlights. Conversely, it holds detail in dark shadow. I shoot a stop under when bright contrasty. In the darkroom the shadows have very little, almost undetectable noise. Even when raised. After this excellent tutorial I can fine tune my technique even more.
Great!
Nicely explained in details. Nice to see you smiling...when talking abt ISO😊...thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thanks a ton
As a Olympus shooter, I long ago stopped worrying about noise (within reason), simply because I had to. In the end, my best shots haven't always been the cleanest. I get for nature trophy shots it's the detail that matters, but if you've captured a "moment" of drama or cuteness or whatever, it's almost irrelevant, and sometimes it's even a "feature". That said, the stabilization lets me hand hold 600mm equivalent at 1/125th or even lower, so that can be leveraged to reduce ISO as well.
Great observations!
This has changed my way of looking at my camera. I am just starting back into photography in my late 50s after having done some in my 20s on 35mm film. With film your iso was always a fixed value of the film. Having run a mostly manual film camera for years I understand aperture and shutter speed and their effects but variable iso has really changed things for me. Your series has helped me a lot. Your presentation and explanations are first rate. Thanks for sharing all this knowledge.
Great tips and reminders on dealing with high noise images. As I wildlife photographer who shoots in low light often, it is a constant battle to not under expose my images and end up with even more noise.
Same here!
Love your videos! Thanks to you, I learned such magical things. I am now amazed at how the photos have improved in just six months, from completely blurred and dark photos of such large birds as swans or geese just a few meters from me to photos of a goldcrest in the shade with ISO 6400 and almost no noise.
Great to hear!
I shoot auto ISO but cap it at 8000. You're right, as long as I don't try to crop much or overly lighten the darks, it still looks good, especially for online viewing.
Righto!
the tips on masking in noise reduction and subject/inversion are awesome!! thanks! congrats on so many great videos!
Glad you like them!
Seeing the difference in light between a sunny day and a starry night really makes you appreciate the human eye. I've had nights where it feels like the moon and stars are roasting the side of my face and I can't sleep. Yet if you wanted to take a photo of that "too bright" room you'd need the shutter open for several seconds, and you'd be fighting grainy noise and all sorts of issues. If your aperture was limited to human iris size, forget it. Yet we see in 200fps+ VIDEO in that light.
It's a pleasure for me watching your videos... Thanks for sharing your knowledge... Greetings from Argentina!
Great content transmitted in a super-clear manner. Thank you Simon 🙏 Ohh, and your shots are stunning!
Many thanks!
Thanks. It’s always good to reinforce your knowledge. Thanks.
I've been fooled all my life when everyone told me that high iso made more noise and I always thought there was something not quite right. Now that you've clarified this fact, I think what you said is completely logical.
Thanks!
My 2 highest "iso" pictures were ~ 64000 (yes 64 thousand)
Shot on Pentacon 6 - Kodak TriX - stand processed - candle light illuminated but from a distance... Even with eyes it was dark, most dificult part of picture taking was focusing.
Awesome, how mislead was I with High ISO and as a result higher noise. Thank you Simon, for such a great and clear explanation.
Simon. thank you, you are always inspirational an explain things in a clear way.
Pure gold. Especially about high ISO. Thank you.
For indoor sports i have no problem pushing my ISO to 12800 on my Canon IDX II. Its a bit noisy but i just incorporate it to my style. It is almost like film grain, it ads alot of texture to the images especially in black and white. And for wildlife i have no problem shooting at 10000-12800.
Agree!
This is one of the best tutorials I've ever seen. Thank you so much for this!!
Awesome video. Some advice here is directly opposite of some of the things I used to do but they make perfect sence. Looking forward to experiment with it!
Cool, thanks
I am an experienced photographer who bought his first SLR in 1959 but it has taken your video to wean me off the idea that high ISO= noise. With film, of course, this was the case, but I look forward to putting my new knowledge into practice.
Hello Simon, thanks for this eyes opening video. I didn't realize that high ISO is not responsible for noisy photos. I actually have photo of squirrel in dark woods which is perfectly OK and is taken with ISO 6400 on APS-C camera (Sony alpha 6500). And I also have other photos of animals taken on the same camera with ISO 800 which are too noisy because they are too dark. Thanks again for the content you are sharing with us. I like the rapid flow of your videos, no blind pauses, that's what I appreciate. 👍
Welcome and thanks for the feedback!
ISO 102400 on a Sony A7S III, a dance show in a very dimly lit bar. Nice looking photos with creamy backgrounds from Christmas lights. Nice chat here. I've noticed more are talking about using denoise processing and worrying less about high ISO, especially if you aren't shooting for National Geographic
That’s high! Nice!
So so helpful Simon, can’t thank you enough. Such clear explanations - you’ve really brought back my enthusiasm. I’m telling all my photography friends about you 😃
Great to hear!
Lynette, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution? Thanks
@@simon_dentremont - Yes of course 😀
Just reviewing my pictures from my shoot this morning at 6:30 am. Once again, I came to your video library for a solution to the error I encountered in most of my photos. Too low of an aperture setting for the amount of available light is the culprit. Back to the field in the morning with more education! The Ducks, Geese, and Cranes are still migrating, so I have some time to nail this. Thanks again!
I love-hate how the cameras and lenses are in focus while you're not. It really amplifies what you're saying about the amount of light available indoors, and it also makes me think that high iso can sometimes be better than using a large aperture.
I really liked what you said about high iso not being the reason for noise, but rather a symptom of low light conditions, I will now increase the maximum value that I allow auto-iso to pick on my sony a7r iii from 6400 to 12800. And from 12800 to 16000 on my sony a7 iii. Of course I will still try to use the longest exposure and widest aperture that I can "afford".
Thanks for sharing.
Congratulations and thank you very much for your videos. I didn´t know you before; I have learned a lot. Best regards from Bogota, Colombia.
Great point about iso. Another tip that is more about personal taste is that sometimes noise isn't that bad. One of my favorites photos was taken at 12800 with no noise reduction. It was completely dark and my subject's face was lit only by her phone screen. Her face was well-exposed but the dark background was super noisy, which I thought was a great effect.
Agree! Some black and whites look better with some grainy texture to them.
Thats why in the 70s we talked about 800 ISO vs 200 black and white film. Do you want a picture or do want a feeling ??
Great video with so much information. You've given me quite a few tips that I need to use and apply to my photography and I thank you!
One of the best explanations I have ever seen about ISO and managing image noise. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Where have you been all my photographic life? Thanks for all the great practical information in your videos. So glad I found them! 😀
Happy to help!
The explanation of iso being merely the messenger of darkness was excellent. I'm just starting out really. Usually shoot auto iso and control aperture and shutter. You've given me a much greater understanding of the process. Wish I had watched this a couple of days ago before capturing a coyote late in the day! Cheers!
Welcome!
Found one of your videos randomly in my feed and then watched another. I'm impressed! You present a ton of useful into in a straightforward and practical manner with useful samples from your work. Wow! Thanks, I've subbed and look forward to more!
Glad it was helpful!
As somebody who somewhat specializes in astrophotography, this was still pretty interesting for more action-rich photography. One thing I'll note for astrophotography in particular is to get to as dark of skies as possible! That really increases the contrast in the sky and allows you to get much more detail, even though the scene on average is technically darker.
I definitely used to severely underexpose images because I thought high ISO was the issue, I think it's a frequent issue for beginning photographers in dark situations.
Great observations!
Man, this is one tremendous tutorial!!!!! I can't even go into the great detail you simplify for folks!!!!! Some of the tips at the end on noise reduction are exceptionally important and little known... I REALLY enjoyed this video and learned some good new techniques!!!!!
I appreciate that!
Hi Simon, Thanks for the video I enjoy them a lot. The highest ISO I use and have had good results is 12800 on my OM System OM-1. Sensor tech has come a long way 😀 Phil
Sounds great!
13:11 That's EXACTLY the information I was looking for. Wish I had known that prior to purchasing the Rebel T7. Thank you!
This was pretty much the best explanation of ISO that I've heard. Nice. Also I took one of my best photos yesterday on a APS-C camera using ISO 12800 :)
Awesome!
Thank you for this! I just purchased my full frame sensor camera a couple of months ago and the Lightroom tips towards the end of this video are especially helpful for cleaning up my high-ISO shots!
Only recently have I stopped fearing raising my ISO. Before your channel, I would always shoot no more than 400, which ruined all of my forests shots.
Now as I've learned and improved, I just got one my best shots ever of a Red-shouldered Hawk on my 7D MkII with ISO 3200. A few months ago, I wouldn't have even tried it.
Thank you as always!
Excellent!
I found you on YT yesterday and I'm impressed! Such a great job! Photos, tips, everything is super useful for me. It makes me more motivated to taking photos again, thanks :)
I'm so glad!
Your videos are so well scripted and presented. Really enjoying your channel!
Im having a very hard time getting clean images in the woods. The red and blue dot example really made sense to me. Thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!