The other day I had to drain one so I could change the coils and I hooked the hose up and turned the knob, a little came out but after a minute or two it wasn’t draining. I had no idea what happened. I now know what I done wrong 🤦♂️ lol thanks for the vid 👍🏼👍🏼
That was one of my questions : Can we hook it up to the whose but the emd of it put it an open industrial vacuum, stop the process, empty the opened vacuum (that serves as a contianer for the moment) and repeat the process of emptyying the water heater or do WE NEED TO CONTINJE ALL THE WAY ONCE.the process is started ?
Usually if the water heater isn’t flushed regularly or once a year, the sediment inside will build up and clog the valve. Try connecting a hose and flushing it with the water on, it should clear it. (Hopefully)
@@LuxPlumbingLLC-AZ We ended up replacing it under warranty since it was leaking. When we brought it outside, there was so much sediment inside it was slushing around when moving it. It was only 3 years old too.
Should’ve turned the water heater for serviceability and install a valve on the cold side. Also just pop the T&P to allow air or disconnect one of the flexes.
I used to do both those things you mentioned when I was an apprentice. I’ve used the t&p to allow air in, and have had to go back multiple times to replace it for not shutting off completely due to build up and leaking outside. Also, the supply lines are copper, don’t want to bend those too many times cause they split and the rubber ring is compromised also. As a plumber, I did let the customer know about updating the supply lines to Stainless Steel, they just wanted the heater flushed.
@@LuxPlumbingLLC-AZ fair enough. But that’s how you get a bigger ticket on explaining why stuff has to be changed. Just another way of doing things. No harm no foul.
As you probably know there’s nothing worse than “it wasn’t leaking before”. Assuming I owe them the replacement lol just to avoid all that I figured out another way. But no, definitely I would way rather use the T&P or flex line. A lot faster as well. Just don’t want to risk having to go back. Especially after already telling them they need to upgrade some stuff. All in all, you and I are on the same page 👍
This is what youtube used to be.
Exactly what you were looking for.
No click bait.
No bull shit.
Quick and to the point! 💯
The other day I had to drain one so I could change the coils and I hooked the hose up and turned the knob, a little came out but after a minute or two it wasn’t draining. I had no idea what happened. I now know what I done wrong 🤦♂️ lol thanks for the vid 👍🏼👍🏼
I should have put the hose outside before turning on the faucet lol
That was one of my questions : Can we hook it up to the whose but the emd of it put it an open industrial vacuum, stop the process, empty the opened vacuum (that serves as a contianer for the moment) and repeat the process of emptyying the water heater or do WE NEED TO CONTINJE ALL THE WAY ONCE.the process is started ?
Dude sounds like you are using a transfer pump. Are you?
Yes I am
Man, when I open the valve on our water heater it just trickles out and will take a day to drain compared to yours.
Usually if the water heater isn’t flushed regularly or once a year, the sediment inside will build up and clog the valve. Try connecting a hose and flushing it with the water on, it should clear it. (Hopefully)
@@LuxPlumbingLLC-AZ We ended up replacing it under warranty since it was leaking. When we brought it outside, there was so much sediment inside it was slushing around when moving it. It was only 3 years old too.
Serious question when you turn the water back on how do you know it’s full before you restore the power
Just make sure you run all your faucets until there’s no more air in the lines before turning the power back on
I live in a condo and need to flush my water heater. Where should I drain the hose to? Is a bathroom sink ok?
I would use the bathtub instead if possible? The lower the drain the better
Should’ve turned the water heater for serviceability and install a valve on the cold side. Also just pop the T&P to allow air or disconnect one of the flexes.
I used to do both those things you mentioned when I was an apprentice. I’ve used the t&p to allow air in, and have had to go back multiple times to replace it for not shutting off completely due to build up and leaking outside. Also, the supply lines are copper, don’t want to bend those too many times cause they split and the rubber ring is compromised also. As a plumber, I did let the customer know about updating the supply lines to Stainless Steel, they just wanted the heater flushed.
@@LuxPlumbingLLC-AZ fair enough. But that’s how you get a bigger ticket on explaining why stuff has to be changed. Just another way of doing things. No harm no foul.
As you probably know there’s nothing worse than “it wasn’t leaking before”. Assuming I owe them the replacement lol just to avoid all that I figured out another way. But no, definitely I would way rather use the T&P or flex line. A lot faster as well. Just don’t want to risk having to go back. Especially after already telling them they need to upgrade some stuff. All in all, you and I are on the same page 👍
get your water heater off the ground!!
Not mine, recommend landlord to add a water heater pan, they declined. I was only hired to flush the tank.