ESC Electronic Speed Controller Alternative to PWM Pulse Width Modulator for Trolling Motor
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- In this video, I utilize an Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) as an alternative method to a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) for use with a trolling motor. This video illustrates how to build an ESC box with a wired remote. I left out time consuming simple steps like drilling holes, installing gland nuts, and electrical connections. These methods may be found on other YT instructional videos.
Related Video:
• Trolling Motor Speed C...
Parts:
* Hobbywing Quickrun 880 ESC.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07NYBF6MQ?...
* Hobbywing ESC LED Program Card Box.
www.amazon.com/dp/B08BXQ17T9?...
* XT90 10AWG Pigtails.
www.amazon.com/dp/B08QDDYVVD?...
* BTF Lighting 5 Pin 24AWG Electrical Connector.
www.amazon.com/dp/B01LCV8ZMA?...
* Waterproof Electrical Project Box.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07WS4X1ZQ?...
* Waterproof Project Remote Box.
www.amazon.com/Hammond-1591BS...
* RC Digital Servo Tester.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQSKLBK?...
* Waterproof ON/OFF Toggle Switch.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPVPQPL?...
* Gland Nuts (misc. sizes).
* Electrical Connectors (misc. sizes). 
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This is exactly what I needed!! I just purchased this after watching that other video you mentioned for inspiration. I have use that and many of your other videos for additional inspiration, but could not figure out how to do a wired remote as a back up to the RC wireless RF transmitter from one of your other videos. This is exactly what I needed to figure out how to wire it with the RF wireless remote and using this as a back up in case it fails. Thank you so much for this video!
Glad to help Tom!
My lord...I finally decided pwm or hobbywing. Being a r/c car builder I thought I knew what I was doing. I was about to return my esc lol. Until you said use that other wire to plug into the top of the esc. After watching all your videos I finally have a electric motor on my 120 pdl. 😂😂 all day trolling now.. thanks, Sergeant Friday
All in a days work. Thanks...lol.
Another great video easy to follow.
Thanks Pete!
Absolutely most informative videos out there.
Thanks again Chris!
Thanks Aksmaniyak. Clear and legible video mate, That ended my search! From using similar ESCs in my RC planes, the whining noise is there too albeit with brushless motors turning high RPM. I'm not sure about Amperage losses vs PWM or the original POT on a typical 55lbs thrust trolling motor but it would be awesome if one of the inmates here could post a video on it! Also like the idea of a magnetic kill switch in case of capsize.
Thanks Joe!
Absolute genius...thanks!
Thanks again Chipster.
Thank you for this!
You are welcome Lt.
Awesome walk thru as always!
Question will this work with a deep cycle lead acid battery?
Thanks! I had contacted Hobbywing with the exact same question and this was their response; " Tech Support Dept (HOBBYWING)
For the most part, any ESC rated for 3s, can use a 12V battery as well. You will simply have to disable the Lipo Safety Cutoff." That would be Item 3, Option 1 using the programming card.
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks!
@@Aksmaniyak so I lf read correctly your saying no need for deep cycle? Or is it saying any 12v deep cycle got little confused...maniyak think you can do a detailed put together one video
@@chingwow2671 You are welcome. You can change a battery setting so you can use a AGM battery.
watched several of your videos, looking at magnetic kill switches, all ones on amazon are stupid expensive for what they are. Do this instead, take regular old door or window normally open contact sensor with screw down terminals , wire that up as the kill switch. Glue a galvanized washer to the inside of the speed controller case, glue the contact sensor to the washer. Take a decently strong magnet affix to lanyard and stick to the case outside where washer is, done, cheap working mag kill switch.
I left the ESC in the batt box. Upgrading the knob to your Mouser knob, thinking about putting the servo tester in batt box, too, and use the 3 small long wires just for knob in remote. Think that is ok? And thanks so much! Was fun running yak on lake w/no paddling!
Glad to help John!
Your vids are great and very informative! I have a question and an idea for a video. I am interested in a steering module that will control an older generation powerdrive unit. That would replace the foot control and convert to hand control. Steering and throttle. Wired would be good no need to go wireless etc! Anyway keep up the good work!
Thanks Guy! I don't remember who did a similar project you are talking about but it might be on YT.
Absolutely excellent vid- i am
A little confused on the lightning 5 wire remote - would you
Have a vid available showing that wiring in a little more detail?
Thanks Chris. No, I didn't go into more wiring detail because the video would have been too long.
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks for the speedy reply, no worries - I'm going to crack on and figure it out it's the last piece in the puzzle 😂
FYI- your knob can be replaced with a guitar pot (made by Bournes) which has a center positioned detent.
Yes, and Mouser makes one as well. You can also buy an after market detent spring for the knob.
Hello Aksmaniyak. Appreciate the video. Did you use the pot that came with the unit or did you get the one from the other video? Also I was getting a very schrill screeching noise at low rpm and I thought, "That can't be good." Do you have that happening on yours also? Again thank you.
Thanks Elvis. I used the original pot/servo in the remote for this build. I have not had the screeching issue and don't even have a guess. Maybe if you could send a vid of the issue I might be able to help.
@@Aksmaniyak ruclips.net/video/_s9AuCIAwfI/видео.html.... this is a link to BASSDelight's video. I had the same whine/high pitch shrill noise that he had. (the noise on my motor was way louder than his). I am ignorant when it comes to the electronics of the motor and I didn't know if it might hurt it so I went back to the old PWM. I had it on a Minnkota 30lb thrust. I really liked being able to reverse direction without fooling with a switch. Maybe I'll try it again. I ordered and used the 10k pot from mouser electronics like he recommended. Maybe I'll try the stock pot that comes with the ESC like you did. Sure welcome your input and videos. Thanks again.
@@elvisrickey4625 I don't know what ESC he is using but it does not appear to be the 880 like I used. That could be the issue.
I noticed the screeching sound on mine coming from the cooling fan.
@@richarddemello4648 👍
I have a electric reservoir rig jon boat with a transom mount and a bow mount Minnkota. When I travel long distances on the lake I use both motors. I turn on the transom motor, point it straight ahead and run the bow mount from the front seat for thrust and steering. During the day when I get to or leave a fishing spot I have to climb back and forth to turn on or turn off the transom motor. The wireless remote ESC would be great to eliminate having to do that. However, when I put the boat on the trailer I use the transom motor to run the boat onto it so I still want to use the handle control. I am considering building an externally mounted ESC controller that would plug into my transom trolling motor with an XT90 hanging out the side so that I can run on the ESC or unplug it at the ramp and use the trolling motor speed control switch and handle. Putting the ESC in a waterproof box is no problem but I am wondering if the XT90 connection is waterproof since I fish in the rain sometimes?
The XT90 is suppose to be waterproof and I haven't had a problem with it. Of course, I have never submerged it. I know you can run a PWM with the stock switch in a trolling motor head, but I don't know if you can do that with an ESC.
@@Aksmaniyak Thank you!
Hi- What would be largest thrust motor would you use since the ESC does not work well with a 55 lbs motor? By the way all your builds have been fantastic.
Thanks Pat. Personally, 45lbs would be the max.
Cool idea! Have you run it for long periods? I'm looking to run continuously at about 10amps for around 10 hours. You think it could handle that kind of sustained load?
Thanks. Since 10A wouldn't be WOT, I think you would be ok. But as always do some testing first.
I've heard recently that the trolling motors are brushless and this ESC is meant for a brushed motor do you think that will make a difference in the longevity of it?
Yes, this ESC is only for brushed motors.
Another very nice build. I am starting this project. I know you said you didn't want to cover all the small details but I have 2 questions: A) How did you merge the 4 motor wires into 2? Do you have close up pictures of that? Did you cut off the female bullet connectors on the blue and yellow wires and replace them with another connector? I know this is a very basic question but that is where I am starting. B)If the center detent on your rotary dial speed control is "off", why is there a need for a separate "on/off" switch? I don't think I'll need a separate remote or the XT90 connectors because I'm going to try to cram it all into the head of my Watersnake T24.
Thanks James. I connected the 2 blue and 2 yellow with marine shrink butt connectors to the XT90 leads. Just pause the vid at 6:40 for a close up. The on/off switch is a safety feature.
@@Aksmaniyak thanks.
Can you describe how you mounted the pot board in the remote box? Thanks!
I drilled the hole in the box cover plate very close in size to the pot shaft diameter for a tight fit. I also added a little marine goop for waterproofing and holding it in place.
Nice work! What's the benefit of doing this over using a pwm?
Thanks. It has quality electronics and the options of wired or wireless controllers.
Nice build - as you always do. But you really need to attach the included fan to the ESC - it’ll overheat and shutdown without it.
Thanks! It is rated for 80A constant draw so it should be able to handle any 12V trolling motor or am I missing something? This is my first ESC.
@@Aksmaniyak it’ll handle the amperage - I’m pushing over 50A with a 55lb motor on some long hauls. I do have concerns over the 2 thinner gauge wire outputs going to motor, and inputs - but they appear to hold since they’re a very short length. Regardless, attach the tiny muffin fan. Another user (don’t remember who) tried running without, esc shut down after 20 or 30 minutes - he let it cool for awhile, started working again.
@BASSdelight Many of us, myself included, use the higher torque motors due to current and wind we’re constantly in. A 30 or 36 barely moves in these conditions - that’s why we’re using these motors which do heat up the ESC. And fyi, my current motor, a Haswing brushless, averages 5.2 mph in flat water. Other motors will go even faster…. You’re 5mph top limit is incorrect.
It comes with the fan because they always over claim what the ESC can do and ignore how heat shut offs stop you from having fun lol. So they include the fan as a CYA.
What parts would need to be upgraded to run a 55lb thrust motor in this manner?
I would not use an ESC for that size motor. I would use a Minn Kota Traxxis board and DIY a controller. I have a video for that project.
I have to come up with a motor solution for my 120pdl after a knee injury and am looking for the best most reliable way to control speed of a trolling motor esc vs pwm. I havnt seen any longevity updates on the esc route to see if it has held up trouble free or is better than a pwm. Please let me know what route has been best. Thanks
I answered your other comment.
Great video is my ESC supose to be blinking red everything works fine but I am not sure about the blinking red light what’s your thoughts
Thanks Robert. If everything runs fine you are good.
Great video. I have a question. Can i run 2 minn kota 30lb motors from one 880 esc.
Thanks. Great question. According to the spec sheet the answer is yes. However, I would contact Hobbywing and ask them to be sure. The only issue I see is that both motors would be run with a single command servo and not independently. If you are going to run 2 30lbers like that you might as well just run 1 55lber.
@@Aksmaniyak I'm using 2 motors on the transom. There are used to back the boat up. Its great for boat control when using livescope for crappie fishing. Thanks for the reply.
So what's the advantage of this vs taking the knob out of the head of the motor and mounting that remotely? More steps (infinite?) between 0 and full power?
Digital speed controllers don't use as much power, have infinite speed settings, and save battery power. More time on the water.
Great video, thanks. The Hobby Wing 880 is currently unavailable, what would be a viable alternative to use? thanks
Thanks Ian! I just checked and Amazon shows the ESC in stock. I don't know another model that I could recommend.
@@Aksmaniyak many thanks!
2 Questions, 1. Do we know the resistance of the original pot on this? I see most upgrading to a 10k pot with Center Detent. If I can get away from having to do this without adding too much resistance that would be great. 2. Do you see any reason Why I couldn't Splice the wire controller and the Wireless controller together to the output? I know not to use both at same time, but If I kept my wireless in my bag just in case would it cause any harm? Thanks
Also which knob did you get, I know some have different diameter requirements. Thanks
Hi. I don't know the original pot specs but you are correct that many have done to a 10K with center detent. I have never tried to splice the wireless and wired controllers together but my thought is it will not work. You could keep the wireless controller and receiver on hand and switch the ESC output from the servo.
@@Aksmaniyak original pot specs for the 5 or 6 I’ve built with different brand servos are 10k. I’ve also used 5k pots with no adverse issues. And a servo tuner to extend pot range past the 2-3 o’clock max dial position.
Using Hobbywing 880 ESC and same driver card as on video. Tested connectivity between connections and good but when hook up battery cooling fan runs and hobbywing does its startup beeps but driver card leds don't come on and no power to motor. What am I missing? Using the potentiometer on the board until figure this out. Thanks.
Did you turn on the switch? Is the battery fully charged and a LiFeo4?
@@Aksmaniyak Yes power switch on and fully charged Could it be the mode selector switch on the card or do I have wiring wrong. White Ground, Red Power, Black Signal?
@@lawrencelegg5066 Receiver is White signal, Red +, Blk -. The black should face the outer edge of the ESC. I go over that in the video.
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks. Rewatched and corrected my mistakes. Missed as was at the beginning before I was fully awake. LED lights working properly but still working on getting motor to operate. Checked connections. Any further suggestions? TIA
@@lawrencelegg5066 Hi, are you trying it with the stock or modified remote? I have ruined quite a few before I got the process right. I think you should join a FB page I started. There are a lot of knowledgeable members that can help too. It will be easier to troubleshoot. Here is the link. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461
Hi Aksell, thank you, I did manage to get the Hobbywing and have followed your setup using a Watersnake ASP T24 and with a 10k pot with center detent (as per Bassman). I get 3 beeps then the single beep showing motor is responding, but then turning knob either to forward or reverse, the prop turns for about 3 seconds and then shuts off, the esc is still running with fan and lights on etc but then turning knob either way the prop is unresponsive. If I turn the switch off and on again and repeat the process the same happens again. It also does exactly the same if I use the original servo. As far as I can see there aren't any obvious wiring conflicts. Do you have any idea what the problem might be? I am completely stumped. Thanks in advance for any light you can shed.
Did you check the manual for troubleshooting? What about your program settings?
Thanks for the reply, I did program settings again to be sure and then found the troubleshooting website and it boiled down to a faulty / loose connection and it now works like a dream, so my bad and proves that you can't be too finicky when it comes to wiring! Grateful for your help and can't wait to test it on the water. @@Aksmaniyak
Awesome! Enjoy.
Did you replace the pot with a 10k center detent???? I would have liked to see that part
No, I just used the stock pot with the servo mounted in the remote.
Sid you replace the pot switch? If so, could you show that?
No, it is the original servo pot.
@@Aksmaniyak Do you have a pic of how it went through the top?
@@HuntFish_DodFather No I don't. I just pulled the knob off and drilled a tight hole for the shaft and pressed it through.
does this save the battery like a pwm? my 55lb drains the 100ah battery on the highest speed setting
Yes. An ESC acts the same as a PWM.
@@Aksmaniyak thanks so much for the response. I guess what I'm trying to do is just get better battery life like how a pww/esc does but I don't need to control the speed since I just use the grip on the trolling motor so I was hoping for an easier way to do that if possible, know what I mean?
@@blakeherrick A digital speed controller is the only way I know to save battery life over standard speed switches.
So this is like a pwm.. if so what's the pros and cons of this vs pulse width moduler?
Yes. This is discussed in several comments.
@@Aksmaniyak thx for putting this out still. More than 1 way to skin a cat!
@@chingwow2671 Thanks.
What box do you use for the remote? It's not in your parts list.
Thanks, I added it to the narrative. Here is the link.www.amazon.com/Hammond-1591BSBK-ABS-Project-Black/dp/B0002BBQUA/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4%3Aamzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&crid=1SX6RZBS7CFSX&cv_ct_cx=Hammond+1591BSBK+ABS+Project+Box&keywords=Hammond+1591BSBK+ABS+Project+Box&pd_rd_i=B0002BBQUA&pd_rd_r=9f7a5b2b-dd50-49ba-9943-1a8d5d710374&pd_rd_w=VNhO7&pd_rd_wg=Tl6C1&pf_rd_p=eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&pf_rd_r=9Z628XREQKA3FG6M102H&qid=1676574248&sprefix=hammond+1591bsbk+abs+project+box%2Caps%2C161&sr=1-1-5985efba-8948-4f09-9122-d605505c9d1e
Why run the 880 over the 80A hobbywing? It’s rated for 3s at 80A, most trolling motors shouldn’t be pulling over 40A, and I feel like 12Vs at 80A is at the very least equivalent to 12.6-13.05Vs(3s rating) at 80A.
Which HW model are you talking about?
Will this work with 12v lead acid deepcell battery
Yes, but you need to program the ESC for that battery. I show how to do that in another ESC video.
What is the AMP draw compared to the PWM ?
I didn't get a reading when I did the shakedown cruise. The camera recording the readings had a corrupted file when I downloaded it.
Would this be suitable for a 52 amps?
I wouldn't use an this ESC on a trolling motor 50lb thrust or larger.
First of all thanks so much for you time making these very informational videos they are great!! I am looking at videos trying to get ideas to add boat brakes to my crappie rig. I am going to use 2 minn kota 30lb motors. Is it possible to run two motors off the same controller? If so would you recommend a ESC or PWM controller. These motors will not be ON for a long period just short bursts 10-60 sec max. Thanks for your input.
Thanks Keith! Actually, that ESC is set up for 2 motors.
how do you make it go in reverse?
Turn the dial to reverse.
Can the system handle a 48 volt system?
You would need to check out the specs of the ESC.
What size gland nuts did you use?
I don't remember. I have numerous sizes.
Darn i like the idea of two wires one nut @@Aksmaniyak
Nice, but my only question is how durable is this solution? In the past, I've burnt out several PWM, that were specifically higher rated than I needed for my Minn Kota 30.
These are very durable, especially over the average PWMs that can be purchased from Amazon.
Is it better to use an ESC or a PWM?
Both have their pros and cons unless you are talking about an inexpensive unreliable PWM. Assuming both are quality builds, a PWM is more expensive, bigger, and heavier while an ESC is less expensive, smaller, lighter weight, but more complicated to build.
The ESC is easier to use in practice because there is no extra switch to go from forward to reverse.
were is the beep coming from// i am getting no power out of esc to motor
The beep is from the motor. It will give 3 short beeps and stop when you adjust the pot to the center point.
It's still a PWM.
This will not last long before the back emf from the motor destroys it.
when you give lessons ,make shure to say you need to by the programmer ,thank's
𝓅𝓇o𝓂o𝓈𝓂 😎