ESC Electronic Speed Controller with Cut Off Switch for AGM and LiFePO Batteries
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- In this video, I illustrate a method to build an ESC for use with a 12V trolling motor powered by either an AGM or LiFePO battery. This build includes a modified servo controller with a center detent potentiometer, on/off switch, and a PWC cut off (kill) switch. The completed ESC is mounted in a waterproof electronics project box.
Parts:
* Hobbywing Quicrun 880 waterproof ESC for brushed motors.
www.amazon.com...
* Hobbywing ESC Program Card.
www.amazon.com...
* Digital Servo Tester.
www.amazon.com...
* Mouser 10K Center Detent Potentiometer.
www.mouser.com...
* Control Knob.
www.amazon.com...
* On/Off Rocker Switch.
www.amazon.com...
* Sea Dog Kill Switch with Lanyard.
www.amazon.com...
* XT90 Battery Connectors (2 Pair).
www.amazon.com...
* Electronic IP65 ABS Project Box.
www.amazon.com...
* PG11 Waterproof Gland Nuts (2).
* Marine Shrink Fit Butt Connectors
* Marine Shrink Fit Tubing.
One of the nicer builds yet! Your walker/motor stand has been put to good use. Another great video.
Thanks John! I definitely got my $5 of use from that walker...lol.
Dude you are such a beast, cranking out good stuff!
Thanks Jim!
Awesome video! Very thorough showing exactly what you did.
Thanks Davis!
Thank you for all your hard work.
Cheers m8.
Glad to help!
Nice detailed explanation and build!
Thanks!
Beast mode!
Would you recommend the esc controller over the standard PWM controller? I like how the PWM has a power percentage readout. Maybe you can come up with a way and make a video on how to add a power readout to your esc box like a PWM has. Great video as always. I'm just about to finish up my kayak trolling motor build and got a lot of my ideas from you, so huge thanks for the videos. I plan to make a short video on my build when i finish (because my kayak is the Ascend 128X and there isn't many videos on it) and plan to give you a shout out in the video. So huge thanks again.
Thanks a lot Chris! I have never checked into a power meter for an ESC but assume there would be one. I know there is one for a LiFePO4 battery. I would recommend the ESC over most PWMs (except for Minn Kota Traxxis build). They each have pros/cons. Looking forward to seeing your build.
Pretty decent setup
Thanks Daniel.
Nice setup. I would just change one thing. On the battery side i would change from male to female on the XT90 connector. The reason is that you now have male connector on the battery, witch, easely be shorted out, since they are visible. Using female from the battery makes it safer. This is ofcourse when your handeling the battery only. Hope you know what i mean. If you search for Lipo batteries you´ll find that they are always delivered with a female connector. Regards. /Magnus
Thanks Magnus. Yes, I understand what you mean. This is just my set up, there are many ways to do this. I really don't have to worry about the battery since I breakdown my equipment after each use and store in the garage.
Great video as always! Can you list the fan you’re using as well. Thanks again. The answer is the fan comes with the Hobbywing 880.
Nicely done!
Thanks!
Nice looking controller. Since you have the kill switch installed already, you can completely eliminate the On/Off switch; it is there with no function at all.
Thanks. You could use the kill as an on/off switch but it is better to use the other switch. The kill switch would be more cumbersome to use like that and would probably not last as long.
@@Aksmaniyak Does the kill switch have the push button to kill capacity as the one on a small outboard?
@@obwith2.332 No, it is key and plunger style only.
Loving your videos as I am gathering parts for my kayak build. One question, if I only have an AGM battery is it safe to hook up the ESC to it while I am programming it, or will that cause it to burn out since it is set up for a LiFePO battery by default?
Thanks. No, you can program with an AGM.
Hi
Can you please confirm, is the kill switch installed to disrupt power on the positive line when the key is pulled?
So like a normally open switch with key installed?
The link to the kill switch is in the narrative section. The pos lead was used to cut power.
Thank you for great video. I have a question regarding voltage rating for ESC shown on Amazon is 6 volt; and you connect this ESC to 12volt LiPePo battery. Would this procedure burns the ESC?
Glad to help. No, the ESC regulates the voltage.
Thank you
Love your videos,thanks so much. I’ve upgraded to a Newport 55lb for my Jackson bite, and am now going to do a proper mount, using your great vids. I’m thinking of doing the esc with kill switch , but what’s the difference / advantage of that over your pwm ones you also show? Is it weight, heat battery consumption issues? Which should I do? I don’t think budget is an issue.
Thanks! I would not use an ESC for trolling motors 50lb thrust or larger because of the current draw. You could build the "Minn Kota PWM Digital Speed Controller Box" using my video tutorial. It would be best for that size motor.
Thanks very much, I’ll check it out.
Based on your experience with different PWM controllers, don't you think that this Hobbywing QUICRUN 880 ESC power input cables are a little too small for the rated amperage of 80A? Thank you.
I know it seems that way; that's what I originally thought too. The wire has a short length so it works fine. I don't run any trolling motors close to the 80A continuous rating so I'm not concerned.
Divide that 80 rating in half for continuous of 40amps. This is the way
Awesome build 👍🏻, great video with clear instructions. Would you happen to remember the dimensions of the water tight box you used?
Thanks Jeffery. The parts links are in the narrative section.
That’s the same link for the control knobs. I’m thinking a box 6”x3.5”x2.5” might work, hopefully.
@@jeffreyblair1820 Thanks for pointing out the error. I put the correct link in the narrative. Here it is. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P55BZDH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hello thanks for the video. I purchased all the materials and I am not sure where to connect the red, black and white wires for the new pot. I tried to determine what position you place them on the servo and new pot switch but can not see them clearly enough in the video. I went ahead and attached them best as I could tell but it will not work. Any help would greatly appreciated
The servo will have the +, -, and signal positions on the board or case. If you search for your 3 pin pot schematic on line, it will show you the wiring sequence.
Love your work, just wondering will these controller work with BRUSHLESS motors? Maybe you can do one with BRUSHLESS trolling motor controller box.
Thanks David. This ESC is for brushed motors. The brushless trolling motors usually have a digital speed controller already.
Just giving my 2 cents on this project, i realize we dont use the 3 pin input off the servo tester. So i desolder this componet and resolder where the cables of the new potentiometer was in the original project. This way i can just plug the new potentiometer like i plug the ECS cable in the 3 pin output, if the servo tester stop work i can replace it even when im in the water
Nice idea.
Hello. Great videos. Thank you for sharing I made a similiar type box with the same ESC. With the lid closed and running at full speed i was reading 115 F inside the box. Do you know if this temperature is a concern?
Thanks! I have not seen any data about that or experienced any issues with heat.
Hello,
which output pins did you use from the servo controller? the plug from the ESC just plugs into that, correct?
You can use any of the 3.
may i ask a favor. I am attempting to create this set up but need to see a better or clearer picture of the wiring for the new pot. trying to see lining up of your wires with the servo and unsure on the alignment of the wires on the pot. I am guessing they are in the video in black/red/white alignment? thanks for the clarification
You just need to put the center wire in the center conection of the new pot, the other 2 wires just change the way the motor runs and it always run to the 2 ways
@@asdlukinhasasd THANK YOU
Can you help me out and share the wiring from the potentiometer to the servo tester. Where the white, black and red are connected on the potentiometer and where you connected each color on the servo. I have the same potentiometer and servo tester. Thank you in advance.
The terminals have the +, -, and S markings on the board. Just match those up to your pot. You can trace my color coded wiring to the pot if you need to. You can also look up the specs for the pot and it will show the terminal connections.
Sir, can you tell me at a high level, meaning overview theory, why is the servo tester needed? I see it has our new pot adjusting it, and it feeds the ESC, so that is because the ESC requires a digital signal or pulse signal to control the speed of the trolling motor? I'm very confused on the theory.
I don't want to get deep into the theory just because it really doesn't help with the project. Just think of it as most other electronics that need a pot, like a volume control. It just regulates the power input/output for the ESC.
@@Aksmaniyak thanks very much!!!
question, I am about done. Just need to know which set of 3 prong rows i add the esc 3 wire plug too? does it matter any of the three matter? Thanks
No, it is for 3 separate channels.
Like the video. Will you share the link where and witch kill switch you are using. Thank you. Lonnie
Thanks Lonnie. All the parts are listed in the narrative.
Great video! One question. When you removed the original pot from the servo tester board, how did you know where each new wire went, and how did it connect to the new 10k pot? Thank you!
Thanks Tyler! I placed the new pot in the same position as the one on the servo and copied the connections.
That makes perfect sense, thank you!
I have used a PWM for a build in the past and it burnt up in the box, do the ESC have the same issue? Have you ran that for a long period of time and had it be fine?
I have had no problems with the ESC.
i am having a hot time with the servo test. plugged it in to the esc nothing. i don.t get it help!
It would be hard to diagnose any problems without photos. Are you a member of this FB group? facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461 There are people that can help.
So if you are not using a lithium battery you need to disable the Cutoff Voltage?
Yes, according to their support team. The LiFe04 battery has a different cutoff voltage than an AGM battery.
Hello master, I need your help, I'm modifying a minnkota 30/34 enduran, after frying a potentiometer and now being able to solve it, it turns out that when I turn on the esc 880 quicrun, as I saw in your video, it makes the three beep signal but the engine It doesn't work with the potentiometer control, I noticed that on yours it makes three beeps and then another single beep signal, but my esc doesn't make the fourth beep signal, can you say something about it? thanks!
The 4th beep means the pot is centered, or in neutral. The pot has to be centered to restart.
After a few minutes of trying I managed to solve it, I ended up inverting the position of the power connector on the servo tester, now everything is perfect, and thank you so much for sharing this project with all of us, fantastic, I'll post a video of how it turned out soon mine with your guidance, thank you!!
Great! Glad to help.
Hi when wiring the pot where does the signal lead, the red lead, and the black lead go on the pot. It was hard for me to see in the video.
The polarity and signal inputs are shown on the Servo case.
Please let me apologize for not making myself clear. The 10k pot on the lid looks like the signal wire is on the right side of the pot, the red wire in the center, and the black wire is on the left lead on the pot. Is that correct?@@Aksmaniyak
That is what I used since it is also on the circuit board in front of the pot. Look for those marks and copy to your pot.
Hi, do you sell them?
No, sorry. There is no way I could warranty the parts.
Just curious how is your setup running after using it for a while. Any issues with wiring? Thanks
No problems so far.
How long did it last before it stopped working?
This also did not fail while being used.
When you attached the 3 wires (for the new POT) to the servo board, did you only use liquid electrical tape? There is no mention that you soldered those wires into the board. This particular step (removing the old POT and installing the 3 new wires) seems to be the most difficult step for me. (Because of how tiny everything is) Thank you for your very detailed videos on this project.
Thanks Craig. Yes, I soldered them first and then applied the liquid tape. It stiffened the wires up a little and made sure that they couldn't short out.
@@Aksmaniyak Am trying to setup an ESC. Somehow I'm damaging the servo board when I remove it's POT. Then when I attach the wires for the new POT, the board only works a short time before total fail. Maybe my servos are too cheap? I got 5 for $12 on Amazon, brand name Teyleten and I had to use a jumper. Can your recommend a different brand servo (that doesn't need the jumper). P.S. I'm a total rookie at soldering and have already invested about 4 hrs studying youtube videos, but I'm probably still messing up something somewhere. Or maybe I'm not removing the POT on the servo properly? Any advice would be appreciated. Maybe messing with these tiny servo boards and soldering tiny 24 gauge wires is just not for me.
@@craiggruenberg9591 It takes practice. The servo I used in this project doesn't need a jumper if you mount it using the base like I did. You can also clip off the pot from the board and leave the 3 tabs attached and solder to those as well.
@@Aksmaniyak Your information and encouragement is very much appreciated. Thank you. I'll give it a few more tries before chucking the whole project in the garbage and getting back to fishing.
@craiggruenberg9591 I wouldn't try this project because I KNOW I would fail with this pot soldering. I have a background and education in electronics, but I don't need the aggravation to try that at this time in my life. I appreciate the video though. Very good.
i ordered a center detent 10k point what i got did not have center detent. orded from amz
I ordered mine from Mouser. It was more expensive with shipping.
Any advice to solder the new potentiometer on the servo tester? Already killed 2 servos testers :(
Unfortunately, th only way to get better is to practice. I usually buy 2 of each part when I am doing this because I fry them too.
@Aksmaniyak u r right, im improving my solder point, bought another servo tester for 1 more try. My actual pod/tester works for go in reverse, but when i try go foward at full speed it drop the light of the tester and switch the mode to alternate, i think it damaged
Whats that item you used to program the esc? I dont see it listed.
My mistake. I added it to the parts list. Thanks!
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks!
Hello, I already bought the 880 esc.
What type of battery do you use? I use a deep cycle lead one.
In the instructions for the esc it says that it can only be used with lithium batteries.
now i don't know what to do
you can help?
I wave the remot control too
I use a LiFePo4 battery. The ESC can be used with an AGM battery by changing the programming as explained in the video.
So can I do it like you did in the other video using the remote control and changing the esc programming like you do in this video?
Do you have a diagram of the electrical installation?
Thank you for everything.
I use a 12v 110ah deep cycle lead batery, its possible I use only a esc and a remote control like you do on another video but changuing the programming off the esc to agm batery like you do on this video?
Hi, yes the build is the same with a remote and only the programming is different. No, I do not have a diagram.
Once again, thank you for everything.
What diameter cable do you use from battery to esc and esc to motor? Do you use any fuses to protect the motor or the esc?
Hello sir, totally love all your videos 😅. Are you willing to build me a box and ship it to me? If so please let me know. I really need one asap. It would be for a endura max 55lb
Thanks! Unforunately, I do not sell any of my builds because I would not be able to warranty the parts. However, you do not need to build one. The Endura Max series already has a digital speed controller installed (Maximizer).
@@Aksmaniyak ohhh man, you would make a lot of money if you could. Well is there any way that you could send me a link to purchase the controller that i need? Thanks🙏🏻
That is what I was saying, you don't need a controller the max already has one.
Ok ok. Gotcha, so its just better to make one of those boxes you have in one of your videos. Thanks bud i really appreciate you taking time out to reply and help me.
Glad to help.
I'm very confused on why the 6 volt servo tester doesn't catch fire when being used on a 12 volt battery like mine did. Any input is appreciated.
The voltage is supplied by the ESC at lower voltage to the servo. Not sure how you hooked yours up but I have done several with no problems.
The esc is simply a "middleman" between the battery and the trolling motor. Power goes to the ESC on one side and power comes out the other side. In between the "in power" and "out power" is the actual esc but the esc needs to be told what to do and that's where the servo controller comes into play. Most servo wires are made up of 3 wires (red, black and white) Red and black are the power supply to the servo controller given by the ESC at a low voltage of up to 6v. The white wire is the signal from the servo controller back to the esc telling the esc what to do. Once the ESC receives the command by the servo controller, the esc then supplies voltage to the trolling motor which is determined by how far the individual turns the POT. 12v trolling motors run up to 12v. At lower speeds, there is resistance (resistors) in the head of the trolling motor on a normal set up and then supplies voltage to the motor which may not be 12v at any given time. The esc in this set up determines the resistance aka voltage to the trolling motor determined by the POT (servo controller) signal. Very cool and reliable setup vs the large, unreliable PWMs. I know this is a little more info than what you were probably looking for, but understanding how everything works together gives people a piece of mind. There's a lot of money involved in kayaking and a little piece of mind is a good thing to have. LOL. Hope this helps and isn't too confusing. @aksmaniyak hell of a job sir. Very nice work.
@@joshfranklin8332 Thanks Josh and excellent explanation.