Here's all the upgrade parts we fitted:- Rear C Arms - www.banggood.com/custlink/DKKKMkJoNT Front C Arms - www.banggood.com/custlink/KvKmMqWjMJ Front trailing arms - www.banggood.com/custlink/vKKGMMWlzi Rear trailing arms - www.banggood.com/custlink/DDvDUzWaUa Servo Saver - www.banggood.com/custlink/DDKGk2JLke Get The Latest Hot RC Deals With These Banggood Coupons Right here - bit.ly/3cHNqiE
Hi rich not sure if my comment was posted on the backflip challenge but i entered yesterday this is my new RUclips I’m not sure if there was a problem posing ruclips.net/video/yJ7D2gHxB_M/видео.html
The truth about these metal parts: Yes they look good but they weigh at least 2x as the original plastic parts, so if you go the full metal upgrade route you WILL want to get stronger springs for your shocks and probably go brushless because it's fat and heavy. The problem is...that you won't want to bash this much after you do the upgrade because these metal screws strip right out after a big hit. How do I know? Well, kids, I went and did the full, complete metal upgrade - metal diffs upgrade, diff housings, metal chassis brace, full metal suspension and steering rack, etc. The upgrades didn't include all the screws and metal screws are different than the plastic ones so I had to get creative. These screws are all phillips head and tend to strip very easily so also order yourself the screw kit, even though it won't have all the metal screws you'll need, it'll have some extras for the inevitable strippage. Anyways, the metal diffs needed shims (full teardown and rebuild required). Then I had a slow-speed rollover which stripped the screws holding the front pivot plate to the diffs and the pivot pin came out. Fortunately I had extra screws (see above) or it'd be a pile of expensive garbage. I think I've been able to run (maybe) 4 full batteries through this buggy since something seems to break every time I ut it on the ground. All told, I'm into this 24019 for almost $300 and I haven't even gone brushless. TRUTH.
3:15 round lathe bar if anyone is interested. Pack your diffs with grease, replace your rear dog bones with cv like your fronts. These kits are ok for speed runners. Absolutely terrible for folks who do any sort of light or mild bashing. The shock gets sent to much expensive spots. Like your chassis.
I just bought one of these after watching your best rc's under 100$ video.well actually I bought two. One for my brother as well. Can't just have one. I was going to get the q901's but these were in the USA warehouse and will be here in a week not 6. Can't wait to drive em!
I see that it has a brushless system. It would be cool if you did a video of setting that up because I’ve never really paired aftermarket electronics in my cars but I would plan on doing it if I knew how. Just a suggestion
Hi,Richie,I have two of these little Bad Boy's.Both Brushless set up's one with 3900kv motor and the other with a 4300kv motor and i fitted the steel spur and pinion gear's..Now that's a good mod to do as well..Great video my friend..Thumb's up from me..
I ran my wltoys 144001 on 3s and the plastic internal fan that is in the brushed motor melted and the esc got crazy hot, I wouldn't recommend 3s lipo on the standard configuration.
I got a kraton 6s and a rustler but I been eyeing one of these because I want something I can learn and work on that's kinda simple because I want to do speed runs and this car seems ideal for that at a good price wish it was a lil bigger but it will do I love your videos u teaching us newbies alot and give us the conference to try to work on cars and trucks and make them the way we want them with out breaking the bank and for that I would like to say thank u for giving me some I enjoy and love ❤️ keep the videos coming I got my friends watching u no w and we all getting this car neaver thought I as a 47 year old these hobby would give me that kid feeling again I love it
Nice upgrades Richie! Thanks for the shoutout as well Appreciate that. I have some spare parts if you get in a jam just me know and I'll send you what you need. I got tired of waiting for a drive shaft and c hub so I just bought another car for parts.
This makes so much sense, when the car is on ebay for just over £60.00, why spend money on individual parts when you have a whole inventory with buying the whole thing.
The Rc Master pushed it to 164kmh (101.9mph) with stock body and none of these aluminium upgrades and he shows everything under the body... unlike to the dude mentiened in this video...
Just too funny for words really it is!!! he has the stock body on and two trays outside of the car holding the batteries on!!!! I guess I could make a super fast car out of mine if I fitted two trays to hold two 8s batteries on the outside of the car! Mr Mad did his with everything inside the car. Also I never said any of these would make the car go faster did I? RC Master made a nice car but don't go close to saying it's stock...
@@DriftomaniacsRC so then your guy ain't the fastest neither? He's got a brushless systeme in it so its not stock...😑 you can add brushless systeme, change motor mount, gearing and still call it stock, but don't you dare add side plates!! Cause then you're far from stock!! 😂😂😂 The rc master is the fastest 144001 to this day period.
I got the same car but...you gotta figure 40 or 50 dollars worth the upgrades one you have it about a week...lol..mine came with 3 battries for 89 dollars..very nice rc car....i still want the brushless version...
Hey! Thanks for the video, question does the 144001 run 3S batteries out of the box or I need some adjustments? I'm new to this, have 3 factory lipos and thinking about other ones :)
Verry Nice video my friend! I did the same upgrades but how did you fixed the wobbling wheels at the front? If i pull at the wheels they came out of the differential cups and wheel bearings 🤔
Barely noticeable, and not enough to slow the car at all. I'd never thought about the weight but then they Al parts are pretty light. Hope that helps, they look good and seem to hold up well
Thanks for the video, I purchased a WL Toys car from Bang Good, received it the otherday and right out of the box it was broken, part of the controller had snapped off, and the motor was spining but non of the drive train was. I haven't taken it apart, but would rather just get my money back. Have you had any issues with them? Do they normally play fair when it comes to this stuff?
Hey I bought saem metal front suspension components c cups etc for my wltoys 144001 but when I was going to fit them the original bearings are too small and would just fall thru is there any specific bearings or should the stock ones fit no problem or did I bought wrong parts. Huge thanks
Hey so what does this car exactly do when it's out of battery? I've noticed mine will run then stop suddenly without the esc turning off. I'm wondering if it's either a low battery or a eventual problem
@@DriftomaniacsRC well I've noticed even with a full battery the car will work for a short period of time (20 seconds) then stop with the esc still on, with no response from the remote so I'm probably going to have to take it in its brand new and I havent ran it hard.
cool video. Im affraid to do that because the screws look soft. One question, the stock servosaver looks a litle loose on my 144001. Its is normal? (its my first rc car)
it's not loose on mine so i'd tighten it a bit, you will need pliers to hold the top of it otherwise when you try and tighten the bottom screw it'll just turn and turn
@@DriftomaniacsRCthanks! that's true. Infinite turn on the bottom srew. I tried to put two washers on top with some lube oil and I tried to don't tight too much the srew above. Lot better now. But I will try your tip that looks less invasive for servo moves. Thanks again for your help
What i have learned is: you wanna have a specific Part to brake. Mainly the easiest to Change. In Most Cases this are the Arms. They are cheap and easy to Switch. I upgraded all to Alu. C Hubs Diff House etc. Now on a Crash the Arms will brake and No Energy will Go into Diff House, Chasi or Diff Spur. You can try to Upgrade your Arms to RPM soft Plastik. They are soft and can move ON a Crash.
I would appreciate some input and help. First of all I want a suggestion from someone who owns a 144 and has waterproof upgraded esc and motor? I thought about a Velenion system but that is more than the car costs by alot. So please give me some input. Secondly-metal gearing upgrades! Where are these gears all at? Maybe I missed it in a previous video. But anyone that can help with these 2 things I would appreciate it. I did get a complete alloy upgrade kit from a site on wish for 34$ nice parts 8$ shipping. And waiting for 3 weeks. But wish does save money. But banggood has great parts for everything.
The alloy stuff for any wltoys is garbage, we all know that. I would never recommend putting it on any wltoys, especially if it’s a basher. It’s just a waste of money. And RC Master is still the fastest Wltoys 144001, every fast car uses side trays! He’s still stock everything besides trays. Give the man some credit!
I do give him credit BUT that car isn't stock! If it's running twin batteries & 4s or 6s then do you REALLY think the stock esc and motor would cope???
Driftomaniacs are you saying Mr Madd2424 runs a stock ESC then? Those stock ESC’s won’t even last one run on a single 3s battery let alone the motor. Once it’s changed from brushed to brushless it’s no longer stock. You’re probably alienating the biggest portion of speed runners by saying side trays break the rules. The fastest cars period run dual battery setups.
I menaged to destroy the left side when i have hit my staircase i though i broke the arm not big deal no no i ripped the whole thing apart arm not damaged and same for the pin but the pun retainers and plastic washers were completly nuked one word its a low quality car thats why its 70$ to make it reliable for minor bashig you will need to buy lc racing parts at that point you should have bough the lc racing emb instead of the wltoys
Bought 2 wltoys the a959 and 144001 a959 was a massive dissspointment the 144001 was okay in performance but the breaks and i keep losingg the wheel nut and i have to search like a fool on the ground for half an hour
@@snowboardwon gambling running on 3s my esc gets boiling hot on 2s if you run 3s you have to be stupid just because it runs doesnt mean its going to run right if the thing catches fire they have only themselves to blame im going to toss a 4s lipo on my 3s slash electronics i want to see what happens. Its quite sad i see wltoys with full metal upgrades car is now like worth 300$ but for what FFS could have get a real good hobbygrade rc for that price
Dont hit stuff with your tire or your ingh pin retainers will become a banana and you plastic pin holder swill get destroyed and you need to buy plastic arms to get those stupid plastic washers . I think the lc racing ingh pin are mad eof a high grade alluminum and it wont bend like the wltoys ones does i ruined the wltoys pins retainers and washers with one hit alluminum is going to be worst
Here's all the upgrade parts we fitted:-
Rear C Arms - www.banggood.com/custlink/DKKKMkJoNT
Front C Arms - www.banggood.com/custlink/KvKmMqWjMJ
Front trailing arms - www.banggood.com/custlink/vKKGMMWlzi
Rear trailing arms - www.banggood.com/custlink/DDvDUzWaUa
Servo Saver - www.banggood.com/custlink/DDKGk2JLke
Get The Latest Hot RC Deals With These Banggood Coupons Right here - bit.ly/3cHNqiE
Hi rich not sure if my comment was posted on the backflip challenge but i entered yesterday this is my new RUclips I’m not sure if there was a problem posing ruclips.net/video/yJ7D2gHxB_M/видео.html
Hi Richie, Love the 144001 and upgrades you’ve done.
The truth about these metal parts: Yes they look good but they weigh at least 2x as the original plastic parts, so if you go the full metal upgrade route you WILL want to get stronger springs for your shocks and probably go brushless because it's fat and heavy. The problem is...that you won't want to bash this much after you do the upgrade because these metal screws strip right out after a big hit. How do I know? Well, kids, I went and did the full, complete metal upgrade - metal diffs upgrade, diff housings, metal chassis brace, full metal suspension and steering rack, etc.
The upgrades didn't include all the screws and metal screws are different than the plastic ones so I had to get creative. These screws are all phillips head and tend to strip very easily so also order yourself the screw kit, even though it won't have all the metal screws you'll need, it'll have some extras for the inevitable strippage. Anyways, the metal diffs needed shims (full teardown and rebuild required). Then I had a slow-speed rollover which stripped the screws holding the front pivot plate to the diffs and the pivot pin came out. Fortunately I had extra screws (see above) or it'd be a pile of expensive garbage. I think I've been able to run (maybe) 4 full batteries through this buggy since something seems to break every time I ut it on the ground. All told, I'm into this 24019 for almost $300 and I haven't even gone brushless. TRUTH.
3:15 round lathe bar if anyone is interested. Pack your diffs with grease, replace your rear dog bones with cv like your fronts. These kits are ok for speed runners. Absolutely terrible for folks who do any sort of light or mild bashing. The shock gets sent to much expensive spots. Like your chassis.
I just bought one of these after watching your best rc's under 100$ video.well actually I bought two. One for my brother as well. Can't just have one. I was going to get the q901's but these were in the USA warehouse and will be here in a week not 6. Can't wait to drive em!
That is awesome!
Just starting to get into rc, appreciate the vid
I see that it has a brushless system. It would be cool if you did a video of setting that up because I’ve never really paired aftermarket electronics in my cars but I would plan on doing it if I knew how. Just a suggestion
*Sarcasm:kicks in* just plug and play
Such a nice buggy, definitely one of the best bang for bucks buggy, great tip/trick using an old screwdriver for a pin rich 👍
I just upgraded mine all metal, runs so smooth.. dont forget to pack differential with grease.. already destroyed one set of gears
Hi,Richie,I have two of these little Bad Boy's.Both Brushless set up's one with 3900kv motor and the other with a 4300kv motor and i fitted the steel spur and pinion gear's..Now that's a good mod to do as well..Great video my friend..Thumb's up from me..
I ran my wltoys 144001 on 3s and the plastic internal fan that is in the brushed motor melted and the esc got crazy hot, I wouldn't recommend 3s lipo on the standard configuration.
Metal a arms make crashes more damaging.. i took my metal arms off cause it caused damage in all source of strange spots
blue and red anodized hop-ups is like crack for rcfans
smelt me in!
I got a kraton 6s and a rustler but I been eyeing one of these because I want something I can learn and work on that's kinda simple because I want to do speed runs and this car seems ideal for that at a good price wish it was a lil bigger but it will do I love your videos u teaching us newbies alot and give us the conference to try to work on cars and trucks and make them the way we want them with out breaking the bank and for that I would like to say thank u for giving me some I enjoy and love ❤️ keep the videos coming I got my friends watching u no
w and
we all getting this car neaver thought I as a 47 year old these hobby would give me that kid feeling again I love it
Nice upgrades Richie! Thanks for the shoutout as well Appreciate that. I have some spare parts if you get in a jam just me know and I'll send you what you need. I got tired of waiting for a drive shaft and c hub so I just bought another car for parts.
Deal!
This makes so much sense, when the car is on ebay for just over £60.00, why spend money on individual parts when you have a whole inventory with buying the whole thing.
Thinking outside the box there turning that screwdriver into a pin. Nice upgrades and looks awesome!
Looks great with the upgrades
I found kit on Amazon of drone screws and came with that shaft
Nice upgrades it looks cool with the blue and red mix 👍👊
I’ve had almost 70 mph love this car 👍🏻
Me too..mph..wicked buggy..i have two ..lol
What motor did u swap the stock one with?
What mods are best for speed, and where do you get them?
Great video. Thanks for sharing your upgrades with us 👍👍👍
Thanks. I own one of these. Wont b long ill have to get that blue metal kit. Screws only go in and out of plastic so many times. :)
all the tips were so useful!
Genious idea with the cheap screwdriver!
Nice build! What esc did you use for this build? I ordered the buggy myself and now I'm looking around for a good motor/esc setup. Thanks a lot!
The Rc Master pushed it to 164kmh (101.9mph) with stock body and none of these aluminium upgrades and he shows everything under the body... unlike to the dude mentiened in this video...
Just too funny for words really it is!!! he has the stock body on and two trays outside of the car holding the batteries on!!!! I guess I could make a super fast car out of mine if I fitted two trays to hold two 8s batteries on the outside of the car! Mr Mad did his with everything inside the car. Also I never said any of these would make the car go faster did I? RC Master made a nice car but don't go close to saying it's stock...
Driftomaniacs then do it! We’d love to see it! I would like that video all day!
@@DriftomaniacsRC so then your guy ain't the fastest neither? He's got a brushless systeme in it so its not stock...😑 you can add brushless systeme, change motor mount, gearing and still call it stock, but don't you dare add side plates!! Cause then you're far from stock!! 😂😂😂 The rc master is the fastest 144001 to this day period.
I got the same car but...you gotta figure 40 or 50 dollars worth the upgrades one you have it about a week...lol..mine came with 3 battries for 89 dollars..very nice rc car....i still want the brushless version...
Hey! Thanks for the video, question does the 144001 run 3S batteries out of the box or I need some adjustments? I'm new to this, have 3 factory lipos and thinking about other ones :)
Nice video !
But, could you explain to me how put off the save-servo ? I can’t do it... thanks for your answer...! Loic. (Lewis in English 😉)
Hello, how are you ? Sorry to bother you but could you tell me what suspension oil did you use? 700 cps? Thank you for your reply. Regards,
She’s lookin’ sweet! 💯👍🏻👍🏻
Also, they have 4 option on Banggood, the 1 and 2 battery 1500 mah 2s, and then the 1 and 2 battery option with 2500 mah 2s
you are brilliant, using screwdrivers for pins X..D fascinating
What is a good servo upgrade for this car?
I ordered:
RadioLink RC6GS V2 R7FG. Is it compatible?
Verry Nice video my friend! I did the same upgrades but how did you fixed the wobbling wheels at the front? If i pull at the wheels they came out of the differential cups and wheel bearings 🤔
I didn't
@@DriftomaniacsRC thanks for your fast reaction! so you have the same as I described? Because otherwise i assembled it wrong. thanks
Do you have a step by step vid of this? Thanks 👍🏼
No, sorry what you see here is what I did/have
Did those carrier's in the front get rid of the wheel slop?
How much heavier does the aluminum parts make the car?
Barely noticeable, and not enough to slow the car at all. I'd never thought about the weight but then they Al parts are pretty light. Hope that helps, they look good and seem to hold up well
my rear differential grenaded right out of the box. Is the powder alloy gears the best upgrade? I'm currently fromt wheel drive lol.
You could have ordered 4 new metal rods....think they sell a kit now...
Will I need the 7 mm to 12 mm hex adapter to run 1:10 wheels on this car
Nice one!
Thanks for the video, I purchased a WL Toys car from Bang Good, received it the otherday and right out of the box it was broken, part of the controller had snapped off, and the motor was spining but non of the drive train was. I haven't taken it apart, but would rather just get my money back. Have you had any issues with them? Do they normally play fair when it comes to this stuff?
They are pretty good on customer service from what I've found, only thing is everything is taking longer to arrive due to the virus.
@@DriftomaniacsRC Thanks for the info, I enjoyed your recent video on the top 5 cars under £100.00. Are you based in the US? Your accent is English.
I wonder, how long does the esc and motor last with 3s?
If it has a high chance to burn then I won’t use 3s
My wltoys 144001 has the same problem as you, the rear part keeps falling out...
Hey I bought saem metal front suspension components c cups etc for my wltoys 144001 but when I was going to fit them the original bearings are too small and would just fall thru is there any specific bearings or should the stock ones fit no problem or did I bought wrong parts. Huge thanks
I would have thought the stock ones would fit, if they are different then the upgrades normally come with new bearings
Hey so what does this car exactly do when it's out of battery? I've noticed mine will run then stop suddenly without the esc turning off. I'm wondering if it's either a low battery or a eventual problem
If the battery voltage gets too low the car will stop moving BUT you'll still have steering. Hope that helps
@@DriftomaniacsRC well I've noticed even with a full battery the car will work for a short period of time (20 seconds) then stop with the esc still on, with no response from the remote so I'm probably going to have to take it in its brand new and I havent ran it hard.
Metal arms essential ?
Nope just nice to have!
I kept plastic arms for steering, metal arms were binding at joint
cool video. Im affraid to do that because the screws look soft. One question, the stock servosaver looks a litle loose on my 144001. Its is normal? (its my first rc car)
it's not loose on mine so i'd tighten it a bit, you will need pliers to hold the top of it otherwise when you try and tighten the bottom screw it'll just turn and turn
@@DriftomaniacsRCthanks! that's true. Infinite turn on the bottom srew. I tried to put two washers on top with some lube oil and I tried to don't tight too much the srew above. Lot better now. But I will try your tip that looks less invasive for servo moves. Thanks again for your help
Hi, any one got the banggood link for an upgraded differential.. with the better metal parts? Thanks
Richie! I had two links, and I redid my outdoor one because the count was wrong!!!
Can you share that please?
Just done it! My error! They've been coming in from people as fast as I can watch them!!!!
I know this is a novice comment but how do you remove the swing arms? I tried popping them off and they just broke.
the rods holding them on are held on by tiny grub screws I think!
Im thinking to get the full metal upgrade kit do u think its worth?
I would say yes
What i have learned is: you wanna have a specific Part to brake. Mainly the easiest to Change. In Most Cases this are the Arms. They are cheap and easy to Switch. I upgraded all to Alu. C Hubs Diff House etc. Now on a Crash the Arms will brake and No Energy will Go into Diff House, Chasi or Diff Spur. You can try to Upgrade your Arms to RPM soft Plastik. They are soft and can move ON a Crash.
Break*
What oil do you recommend for the shocks? Mine have started to leak, looking to change out the oil
I would say 30W
I heard thicker since travel is so short.. some say 100 is good
I would appreciate some input and help. First of all I want a suggestion from someone who owns a 144 and has waterproof upgraded esc and motor? I thought about a Velenion system but that is more than the car costs by alot. So please give me some input. Secondly-metal gearing upgrades! Where are these gears all at? Maybe I missed it in a previous video. But anyone that can help with these 2 things I would appreciate it. I did get a complete alloy upgrade kit from a site on wish for 34$ nice parts 8$ shipping. And waiting for 3 weeks. But wish does save money. But banggood has great parts for everything.
Are you saying the motor and esc can handle 3s battery? Can you recommend a battery?
Stock motor and esc are 3S capable
It runs pretty hot on 2s.. 3s would heat up fast.. plus spur gear will grind for sure w/o metal upgrade. Diff will too
Nice m8
Is this car good for bashing when stock?
NO it's not a basher at all!
Did you have any bearing slop in the rear?
No Josh I've not had that
@@DriftomaniacsRC you said yours were from banggood? I ordered mine off wltoys site when they first came out. Must have got a bad batch.
That's some nice upgrades, don't have a wltoys but they are popular ✌️😎👍 HFLPRCing RCFAM4LIFE 🤜❣️🤛 Play Safe and Stay Healthy My Friend
Take that rear wing off you will go faster 👍🏻
Yeah but there will be no down force so it will just wheelie
👍
These parts are not good for bashing. For on road it's ok.
The alloy stuff for any wltoys is garbage, we all know that. I would never recommend putting it on any wltoys, especially if it’s a basher. It’s just a waste of money. And RC Master is still the fastest Wltoys 144001, every fast car uses side trays! He’s still stock everything besides trays. Give the man some credit!
I do give him credit BUT that car isn't stock! If it's running twin batteries & 4s or 6s then do you REALLY think the stock esc and motor would cope???
Driftomaniacs are you saying Mr Madd2424 runs a stock ESC then? Those stock ESC’s won’t even last one run on a single 3s battery let alone the motor. Once it’s changed from brushed to brushless it’s no longer stock. You’re probably alienating the biggest portion of speed runners by saying side trays break the rules. The fastest cars period run dual battery setups.
I menaged to destroy the left side when i have hit my staircase i though i broke the arm not big deal no no i ripped the whole thing apart arm not damaged and same for the pin but the pun retainers and plastic washers were completly nuked one word its a low quality car thats why its 70$ to make it reliable for minor bashig you will need to buy lc racing parts at that point you should have bough the lc racing emb instead of the wltoys
Bought 2 wltoys the a959 and 144001 a959 was a massive dissspointment the 144001 was okay in performance but the breaks and i keep losingg the wheel nut and i have to search like a fool on the ground for half an hour
@@snowboardwon gambling running on 3s my esc gets boiling hot on 2s if you run 3s you have to be stupid just because it runs doesnt mean its going to run right if the thing catches fire they have only themselves to blame im going to toss a 4s lipo on my 3s slash electronics i want to see what happens. Its quite sad i see wltoys with full metal upgrades car is now like worth 300$ but for what FFS could have get a real good hobbygrade rc for that price
Dont hit stuff with your tire or your ingh pin retainers will become a banana and you plastic pin holder swill get destroyed and you need to buy plastic arms to get those stupid plastic washers
. I think the lc racing ingh pin are mad eof a high grade alluminum and it wont bend like the wltoys ones does i ruined the wltoys pins retainers and washers with one hit alluminum is going to be worst
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