Another great video! Thanks for showing us this engine in great detail! I still don't understand how this engine is so much more powerful than OS 18CVR!
Thanks for the support and always with great comments ‼️ - Well…. HPI claims the 2+ Hp on this one but, I am sure that it has similar power to the CVR. I’m not sure it would hold up as long as the CVR, if you club raced the two side by side but, the G/T3.0s are a great engines for the price I appreciate you and everyone for watchn’ 🩷
21:59 Can somebody make those fang cuts without ruining the sleeve completely? I'm sure HPI could have made 5 different sleeves with 5 ports of different sizes and fang variations for a single engine, but maybe there is a reason they didn't? Maybe it's not that big of a difference in power output or overall engine reliability improvement. Thank you for the vid! Great attention to detail and overall presentation!
Hi nOOb247 ‼ I'm really glad you enjoyed the vid 💯 and thank you for letting me know - You may have already seen them but, I do have a couple videos on the Modified OS 15CV-R. I put some fangs and some other mods on the sleeve. Feel free to check them out, if you would like to (here's a couple links) ruclips.net/video/_T_vYbsmiao/видео.html ruclips.net/user/shortsXHGW9J_maik I am sure that the designers/engineers that developed the G3.0 tried to find a balance between modifications, performance and overall cost. Certain Mods help more than others I apprecite you watchn' and for taking the time to write 💜
A head shim video on the t3.0 would definitely be interesting. I'm just now beginning to run the t 3.0 engines on a couple rs4s that I have restored. I run 25% vp, and they are somewhat difficult for me to tune for some reason. Everything that's vacuum related is in great condition. I've seen where many people say these are a breeze to tune, but both of mine are being difficult. The clutches are new and shimmed correct as well.
Hi Hardy, this is a great comment‼ We can do some future testing and see what may make a difference with shims and fuel. - The T3.0 on the carbon RS4 likes to run on the rich side (IMO). The tune on it is good/normal but, the HSN is further out than I would expect (if that makes sense). Also, these engines seem to have a really small operating "tune window". Even the engine set-up manual says that the HSN shouldn't be turn in more than 3/4 turn in from flush (which is really small). I guess what I'm saying is that, I'm not surprised that you and others could have a little trouble tuning with this engine/carb. I normally run 9/20 and 9/25 VP on my ABC engines. - What oil % do you run? 14% should be fine but, the more oil in the fuel, the small the tuning window can become. Just something to consider. - What portion of the tune are you having trouble with? Let me know Thanks again for writing and for watchn' 💜
@a2rc I'm running 9/25 vp at the moment, and I really feel like it's a great fuel. But the tiny tuning window is what's messing with me. I know it couldn't have been my break in now because you said the tuning window is small. But I did do the Adam Drake method and actually ran two more tanks at idle than recommended. Anyway, I can richen or lean the high speed one hour in it dramatically changes the tune, none of my other enginesare like that. Its really frustrating because I feel like they are running too rich but when I lean them out they will cut out or do the chewbacca noise that we all know.
@a2rc the exact same. I'm going out today and I'll take one with me. I'll reset the needles and give it another go. It really grinds my gears, haha. Hopefully I just wasn't patient enough the last couple of times.
Ohhh I’m glad you enjoyed it 💯 - Yeah the slide carb is a nice option on any engine. We will get to an engine overview on the HO 3.0 but, that slide carb is a bit different. Thanks for taking the time to write SoS 🩷
A very nice looking little engine! That boost port!! it's ridiculously small 😮 There is soooooo much that can be done in that engine with a dremel 😋 I like your idle gap tool!
A number of years ago, my grandfather passed on some full scale engine tools to me (I always “need” more tools lol) and one was a vintage set of carb jet gauges. One day I was trying to think of a better way to “measure” the carb gap and these of course worked perfect. I have a set with different sizes and makes the job a lot easier. - So of course I use them to take out small springs too lol 😂 Yeah, I agree, there is a lot that could be done to this engine. Maybe one day down the road, I’ll do some modifying and see how she responds Thanks for the great comment Tasty 🩷 and for watchn’
Awesome video as always Bud 👊 I use a toothpick to remove the spring. 😂 If you are going right back together for some reason it's easy to keep up with. Love the fact that you're explaining to Ppl about shim stack. Bc the inexperienced Guy's don't think it makes a difference.But it makes a big when changing percentage fuel's.keep up the great work.till the next 1 burn some more Nitro ‼️👊🔥🔥🔥
Hey Carl 💯 - Yeah, please use whatever works for the small spring. Sometimes we have to be creative on what we use and how we use tools for these smaller scale engines - I appreciate the feedback on this shim stack topic. I agree, it does make a difference (some engines more than others). At minimum, I want folks to know about the topic to gain experience. They can then choose to learn and/or experiment a bit with there engine to see for themselves. This is a great hobby that allows us to keep learning and having fun forever Thanks for the great comment and for the support 🩷
Another awesome video keep up the good work! The G3.0 is a great engine! I will say the R5 plug is way to cold and gives a very small tuning window. The os 8 or 7 plugs are much better! Mine had 3 shims i pulled 1 with the 8 plug and 25% nitro witch made a big difference! Also a port matched exhaust header really helped as well. KBN 🍻😎
LoL sounds like we feel the same about the R5s 😆 At this point, I only use them to break in the engine - Defiantly going to mess with the shim stack by removing and adjusting the thickness of them to get a bit better stack up for performance. I’m not surprised that the engine was a bit better with a lower shim stack. Its also good to know you have already tried it out and had some positive results I glad you enjoyed the Vid Bug ‼️ Thanks for watchn’ 🩷
@@a2rc Also the exhaust header I think I'd mentioned was very Very small on the portside and needed a portmatch to the gasket shape which really helped improve flow as well as performance if you are running the stock HPI headers. But like I said the 8 or 7 and one less shim made a big difference. Always on point in your videos man keep up the good work! 🍻😎💯
Hi mate, thanks for sharing your content. I wonder if you could give me some advice. I'd like to put a centax clutch onto my rs4 3. I also wanted to use the G3.0 HO engine which has a slide carb. Are these modifications possible? Have you ever seen a SG crank and a centax on a HPI RS4 3?
@@lawrencewinter Hey Lawrence! I’m glad you liked the video💯 Yes you should be able to put a Centax on the RS4. Just make sure that the pinion spacing and pitch works out/is correct. Chassis mounting holes may need some adjustment but, you will have to get it all together to see for sure Im pretty sure HPI made a slide carb conversion for the RS4 3s. You’re welcome to do some digging for a PN but, I can help look for you too if you want. Just let me know. - Also, you can make your own horn and link setup from different parts if you want. Sometimes, being creative is just want we have to do. Have fun with the process I appreciate you watchn’ and taking the time to write 🩷
I have a question. I have an old hpi mt2 18ss and it still has the 18ss engine in it. It’s starting to get tired and I’m wondering (can’t find any information) if the sleeve, con rod and piston from these newer 3.0 engines would work in the old 18ss. Since they are both .18 size. There’s no such thing as rebuild parts for the 18ss that I can google up anywhere. I know I can just put the new engine in, but it would be nice to keep the original in it working. Thanks. Glad I found your video because I was going to reach out to the bug 404 because I’m in Canada too, but I see he’s in the comments here already too. As well as the nitro gang guy.
@@gregdeguerre8804 Thanks for the great question 💯 - Unfortunately, the 18SS and the G3.0 engines are made made different companies. The 18SS has been long discontinued and parts are very hard to come by (super expensive at that) I have a 18SS MT2 as as well. As you know, they are great trucks. Currently, I have a SH18 on it (would not be my first choice) but, get the job done just fine. - If you want to put a current manufactured engine on the truck, then I would suggest the HPI T3.0 (made by Force). We are going to go over that engine on our next Engine Overview. Feel free to check it out when it’s released. - Other than the T3.0, there are some great discontinued replacement options as well. The OS 15 and 18CVR, 15SS, SportsWerks 18, etc. that doesn’t mean you have yo stop looking for the 18SS but, just trying to give you some options. Just look for standard shaft small block engines Hope that helps a bit and thanks so much for watchn’ 🩷
@@a2rcHey thanks for the reply. Ya I wasn’t sure. I know in the .18ci size there’s bore and stroke variables to consider. This poor truck has been sitting for 8-10 years now. I bought a G3.0 and the motor mount and the clutch bell wouldn’t line up with the spur. So much for believing what you read on the internet about it dropping in. I didn’t know back then about the difference in the crank shafts. So yes the T3.0 looks like the ticket. I just ordered one. I have a savage with the F4.6 v2 as well that I just woke up again this year. I bought it brand new 10 years ago and it’s only had 2 gallons run through it. Keep burning nitro. I’ve seen some scary pictures of burnt garages from charging lipo batteries and they were in the lipo safe bags. No thanks. 👍
@@gregdeguerre8804 Call me old fashioned or whatever but, that’s the same reason I still use NIMH receiver packs. I still have no interest in buy or using Lipos. Idk maybe one day but, today is not that day lol. - It’s awesome you are getting back into the hobby a bit more now. The fun never goes away and I’m sorry you got some bad info about the G3.0. Just remember/or know that you can still use the side auxiliary engine mount flanges as needed on the T3.0 (even though it has integrated ones). I always enjoy helping where I can so, feel free to continue asking questions if you believe I’m be able to help out
@@jefffowler2965 Hi Jeff. I appreciate you watchn’ and taking the time to write 🩷 The OEM plastic sleeve is normally better to use but, you can put some fuel on it if you want to. - You will need to cut or untie the cord at the handle. Make sure the cord doesn’t retract, slip the tubing over the cord, re-tie the cord on the plastic handle and then you should be all done. The fuel tubing does hold the handle up as well but, again it is an option. Hope that helps a bit and have a great day
I’m just curious, can these SG crank engines be put on SNRS4? Or would the T3.0 be better? Do you have a project you are considering putting the G3.0 in?
Hey Tega‼️ Great questions It is possible to put a SG small block on a Super but, you may need to modify the lower chassis and depending on which clutch bell you use, it may affect mesh/alignment on the trans - Long story short, an engine with a Standard shaft would make things easier for sure. The T3.0 would be a good option and I personably look for standard shaft engine for all RS4s projects My G3.0 is reserved for a future HPI MT build. Also, you may know this but, the G will not work on the 1/10 RS4 3 without a lot of cutting. The T3.0 would be a direct fit. The black plate and pull start design is very different between the two engines As always, I appreciate you taking the time to write and for watchn’ 🩷
@@eroltgy Hi and Thanks for reaching out. I’m not 100% sure I understand what your trying to ask but, I’ll help if I can - Are you asking about the glow plug thread pitch or what exactly? I appreciate you watchn’ and taking the time to write 🩷
@@eroltgy So, I think you are talking about the thread pitch and for a standard plug, it should be 1/4-32. I hope that helps - What are you working on?
Hi and thanks for the great question 💯 Yes this engine can be used for a 1/10 model but, there are some cars that it may not work/fit in. - What car or truck are you interested in using it for? I appreciate you watchn’ 🩷
Another great video! Thanks for showing us this engine in great detail! I still don't understand how this engine is so much more powerful than OS 18CVR!
Thanks for the support and always with great comments ‼️
- Well…. HPI claims the 2+ Hp on this one but, I am sure that it has similar power to the CVR. I’m not sure it would hold up as long as the CVR, if you club raced the two side by side but, the G/T3.0s are a great engines for the price
I appreciate you and everyone for watchn’ 🩷
21:59 Can somebody make those fang cuts without ruining the sleeve completely? I'm sure HPI could have made 5 different sleeves with 5 ports of different sizes and fang variations for a single engine, but maybe there is a reason they didn't? Maybe it's not that big of a difference in power output or overall engine reliability improvement. Thank you for the vid! Great attention to detail and overall presentation!
Hi nOOb247 ‼
I'm really glad you enjoyed the vid 💯 and thank you for letting me know
- You may have already seen them but, I do have a couple videos on the Modified OS 15CV-R. I put some fangs and some other mods on the sleeve. Feel free to check them out, if you would like to (here's a couple links)
ruclips.net/video/_T_vYbsmiao/видео.html
ruclips.net/user/shortsXHGW9J_maik
I am sure that the designers/engineers that developed the G3.0 tried to find a balance between modifications, performance and overall cost. Certain Mods help more than others
I apprecite you watchn' and for taking the time to write 💜
A head shim video on the t3.0 would definitely be interesting. I'm just now beginning to run the t 3.0 engines on a couple rs4s that I have restored. I run 25% vp, and they are somewhat difficult for me to tune for some reason. Everything that's vacuum related is in great condition. I've seen where many people say these are a breeze to tune, but both of mine are being difficult. The clutches are new and shimmed correct as well.
Hi Hardy, this is a great comment‼
We can do some future testing and see what may make a difference with shims and fuel.
- The T3.0 on the carbon RS4 likes to run on the rich side (IMO). The tune on it is good/normal but, the HSN is further out than I would expect (if that makes sense). Also, these engines seem to have a really small operating "tune window". Even the engine set-up manual says that the HSN shouldn't be turn in more than 3/4 turn in from flush (which is really small). I guess what I'm saying is that, I'm not surprised that you and others could have a little trouble tuning with this engine/carb.
I normally run 9/20 and 9/25 VP on my ABC engines.
- What oil % do you run? 14% should be fine but, the more oil in the fuel, the small the tuning window can become. Just something to consider.
- What portion of the tune are you having trouble with? Let me know
Thanks again for writing and for watchn' 💜
@a2rc I'm running 9/25 vp at the moment, and I really feel like it's a great fuel. But the tiny tuning window is what's messing with me. I know it couldn't have been my break in now because you said the tuning window is small. But I did do the Adam Drake method and actually ran two more tanks at idle than recommended. Anyway, I can richen or lean the high speed one hour in it dramatically changes the tune, none of my other enginesare like that. Its really frustrating because I feel like they are running too rich but when I lean them out they will cut out or do the chewbacca noise that we all know.
@@Hardy_boy1 There is defiantly a fine balance the LSN and the HSN on that carb.
- Are both of your engine acting the same?
@a2rc the exact same. I'm going out today and I'll take one with me. I'll reset the needles and give it another go. It really grinds my gears, haha. Hopefully I just wasn't patient enough the last couple of times.
@@Hardy_boy1 It’s always awesome to get some run time
- Let me know how your adventure goes. I’m really interested to learn how your day goes 💯
This is probably my favourite hpi engine really enjoyed this especially today 👍 I still have this in my bullet????🤔😂 mine came with a slide carb.
Ohhh I’m glad you enjoyed it 💯
- Yeah the slide carb is a nice option on any engine. We will get to an engine overview on the HO 3.0 but, that slide carb is a bit different.
Thanks for taking the time to write SoS 🩷
A very nice looking little engine!
That boost port!! it's ridiculously small 😮
There is soooooo much that can be done in that engine with a dremel 😋
I like your idle gap tool!
A number of years ago, my grandfather passed on some full scale engine tools to me (I always “need” more tools lol) and one was a vintage set of carb jet gauges.
One day I was trying to think of a better way to “measure” the carb gap and these of course worked perfect. I have a set with different sizes and makes the job a lot easier.
- So of course I use them to take out small springs too lol 😂
Yeah, I agree, there is a lot that could be done to this engine. Maybe one day down the road, I’ll do some modifying and see how she responds
Thanks for the great comment Tasty 🩷 and for watchn’
Awesome video as always Bud 👊 I use a toothpick to remove the spring. 😂 If you are going right back together for some reason it's easy to keep up with. Love the fact that you're explaining to Ppl about shim stack. Bc the inexperienced Guy's don't think it makes a difference.But it makes a big when changing percentage fuel's.keep up the great work.till the next 1 burn some more Nitro ‼️👊🔥🔥🔥
Hey Carl 💯
- Yeah, please use whatever works for the small spring. Sometimes we have to be creative on what we use and how we use tools for these smaller scale engines
- I appreciate the feedback on this shim stack topic. I agree, it does make a difference (some engines more than others). At minimum, I want folks to know about the topic to gain experience. They can then choose to learn and/or experiment a bit with there engine to see for themselves.
This is a great hobby that allows us to keep learning and having fun forever
Thanks for the great comment and for the support 🩷
Late but last to leave. 👍always yes sir. I really enjoyed the adventure. Thsnk you for sharing 😊
I’m happy your enjoyed it 🩷 Always appreciate the support. Thank you 💯
Nice work bro appreciate you sharing 🤜💯🇦🇺
Thanks Tony 🩷 I’m glad you liked it
Awesome video bro 💪💥🤩 👍 💯
Thanks Rob 🩷 I’m glad you liked it
Another awesome video keep up the good work! The G3.0 is a great engine! I will say the R5 plug is way to cold and gives a very small tuning window. The os 8 or 7 plugs are much better! Mine had 3 shims i pulled 1 with the 8 plug and 25% nitro witch made a big difference! Also a port matched exhaust header really helped as well. KBN 🍻😎
LoL sounds like we feel the same about the R5s 😆 At this point, I only use them to break in the engine
- Defiantly going to mess with the shim stack by removing and adjusting the thickness of them to get a bit better stack up for performance.
I’m not surprised that the engine was a bit better with a lower shim stack. Its also good to know you have already tried it out and had some positive results
I glad you enjoyed the Vid Bug ‼️ Thanks for watchn’ 🩷
@@a2rc Also the exhaust header I think I'd mentioned was very Very small on the portside and needed a portmatch to the gasket shape which really helped improve flow as well as performance if you are running the stock HPI headers. But like I said the 8 or 7 and one less shim made a big difference. Always on point in your videos man keep up the good work! 🍻😎💯
Hi mate, thanks for sharing your content. I wonder if you could give me some advice. I'd like to put a centax clutch onto my rs4 3. I also wanted to use the G3.0 HO engine which has a slide carb. Are these modifications possible? Have you ever seen a SG crank and a centax on a HPI RS4 3?
@@lawrencewinter Hey Lawrence! I’m glad you liked the video💯
Yes you should be able to put a Centax on the RS4. Just make sure that the pinion spacing and pitch works out/is correct. Chassis mounting holes may need some adjustment but, you will have to get it all together to see for sure
Im pretty sure HPI made a slide carb conversion for the RS4 3s. You’re welcome to do some digging for a PN but, I can help look for you too if you want. Just let me know.
- Also, you can make your own horn and link setup from different parts if you want. Sometimes, being creative is just want we have to do. Have fun with the process
I appreciate you watchn’ and taking the time to write 🩷
I have a question. I have an old hpi mt2 18ss and it still has the 18ss engine in it. It’s starting to get tired and I’m wondering (can’t find any information) if the sleeve, con rod and piston from these newer 3.0 engines would work in the old 18ss. Since they are both .18 size. There’s no such thing as rebuild parts for the 18ss that I can google up anywhere. I know I can just put the new engine in, but it would be nice to keep the original in it working. Thanks.
Glad I found your video because I was going to reach out to the bug 404 because I’m in Canada too, but I see he’s in the comments here already too. As well as the nitro gang guy.
@@gregdeguerre8804 Thanks for the great question 💯
- Unfortunately, the 18SS and the G3.0 engines are made made different companies. The 18SS has been long discontinued and parts are very hard to come by (super expensive at that)
I have a 18SS MT2 as as well. As you know, they are great trucks. Currently, I have a SH18 on it (would not be my first choice) but, get the job done just fine.
- If you want to put a current manufactured engine on the truck, then I would suggest the HPI T3.0 (made by Force). We are going to go over that engine on our next Engine Overview. Feel free to check it out when it’s released.
- Other than the T3.0, there are some great discontinued replacement options as well. The OS 15 and 18CVR, 15SS, SportsWerks 18, etc. that doesn’t mean you have yo stop looking for the 18SS but, just trying to give you some options. Just look for standard shaft small block engines
Hope that helps a bit and thanks so much for watchn’ 🩷
@@a2rcHey thanks for the reply. Ya I wasn’t sure. I know in the .18ci size there’s bore and stroke variables to consider. This poor truck has been sitting for 8-10 years now. I bought a G3.0 and the motor mount and the clutch bell wouldn’t line up with the spur. So much for believing what you read on the internet about it dropping in. I didn’t know back then about the difference in the crank shafts. So yes the T3.0 looks like the ticket. I just ordered one.
I have a savage with the F4.6 v2 as well that I just woke up again this year. I bought it brand new 10 years ago and it’s only had 2 gallons run through it.
Keep burning nitro. I’ve seen some scary pictures of burnt garages from charging lipo batteries and they were in the lipo safe bags. No thanks. 👍
@@gregdeguerre8804 Call me old fashioned or whatever but, that’s the same reason I still use NIMH receiver packs. I still have no interest in buy or using Lipos. Idk maybe one day but, today is not that day lol.
- It’s awesome you are getting back into the hobby a bit more now. The fun never goes away and I’m sorry you got some bad info about the G3.0. Just remember/or know that you can still use the side auxiliary engine mount flanges as needed on the T3.0 (even though it has integrated ones).
I always enjoy helping where I can so, feel free to continue asking questions if you believe I’m be able to help out
❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊. ไฟแอดพ์.
I appreciate you watchn’ 🩷
Did you put fuel line on the rope of pull start? If so , how you do that?
@@jefffowler2965 Hi Jeff. I appreciate you watchn’ and taking the time to write 🩷
The OEM plastic sleeve is normally better to use but, you can put some fuel on it if you want to.
- You will need to cut or untie the cord at the handle. Make sure the cord doesn’t retract, slip the tubing over the cord, re-tie the cord on the plastic handle and then you should be all done.
The fuel tubing does hold the handle up as well but, again it is an option.
Hope that helps a bit and have a great day
I’m just curious, can these SG crank engines be put on SNRS4? Or would the T3.0 be better?
Do you have a project you are considering putting the G3.0 in?
Hey Tega‼️ Great questions
It is possible to put a SG small block on a Super but, you may need to modify the lower chassis and depending on which clutch bell you use, it may affect mesh/alignment on the trans
- Long story short, an engine with a Standard shaft would make things easier for sure. The T3.0 would be a good option and I personably look for standard shaft engine for all RS4s projects
My G3.0 is reserved for a future HPI MT build. Also, you may know this but, the G will not work on the 1/10 RS4 3 without a lot of cutting. The T3.0 would be a direct fit. The black plate and pull start design is very different between the two engines
As always, I appreciate you taking the time to write and for watchn’ 🩷
Hi, is the spark plug connection a special thread or whitworth
T.y
@@eroltgy Hi and Thanks for reaching out.
I’m not 100% sure I understand what your trying to ask but, I’ll help if I can
- Are you asking about the glow plug thread pitch or what exactly?
I appreciate you watchn’ and taking the time to write 🩷
Is the glow plug a special tooth?Or is it Whitworth?
@@eroltgy So, I think you are talking about the thread pitch and for a standard plug, it should be 1/4-32. I hope that helps
- What are you working on?
The glow plug hole is deformed.Thank you for your concern.
Hi, may i know if this engine can fit for 1/10 chassis
Hi and thanks for the great question 💯
Yes this engine can be used for a 1/10 model but, there are some cars that it may not work/fit in.
- What car or truck are you interested in using it for?
I appreciate you watchn’ 🩷