I notice the grip bar on the left side to hold on to when getting on or off the tractor. Kubota pre-drills the right side. I purchased the right-side grip bar from my local dealer. It helps to hang on to when I am turned around to the right looking out the back. I have a large spirit level on my box blade and an aftermarket hydraulic control for lifting and tilting. The grip bar helps when you are constantly looking out the back at the level when grading a pad. Just letting folks know that the grip bar is available from Kubota.
As always Neil, I love your videos, you always answer the questions that I'm wondering about. I'm off tomorrow to pick up my RCR1872 for my MX5800 and will be making quick work of those small trees and briar patches this weekend- THANKS!!
Neil, thanks for all the great videos. I'll admit, I send my customers links to your you-tube channel quite often. One comment about the type of cutting you are doing in this video; When doing edges of fields with larger material, I often advise folks to lift the cutter up, back over the material, drop the cutter and pull forward. The reasoning is that it will not "lay down" the material, and you can chop it in finer pieces. Obviously being careful about flying material. Also, here in the North East, fields can be very rough - moving between forward and reverse we can sometimes "hook" the tailwheel into a rut which puts strain on it and sometimes can even bend it. I don't think you have as much of an issue where you are. Another great video!
I learned valuable knowledge watching this, I have a woods 6 ft finish mower, but need and hope to get a bush hog soon, while I’ve never used one, these videos are of great help, thxs!
Hi Dave, I recently purchased a Woods Brush Bull rotary cutter or slasher as we call them in Australia. I'm very impressed with the quality of the machine and the thought that has gone into the design. The Land Pride that Neil is using in this clip doesn't look nearly as good as the Woods product.
Very accurate and truthful advice on the rotary cutter purpose and use. My old 10' cutter would clear a path destroying everthing in its way like a tornado! Not pretty when done....but certainly under control afterwards.
Your point about the brush hog not performing like a finishing mower is well taken, but once an area has been brush-hogged a couple of times, you might be surprised how good it looks, though not the finish mower cut. I have a half-mile drive way with grass on each side, and a pond dam and powerline that I frequently brush hog, and it would be hard to tell the difference in cuts between the two implements. BTW, I have the non-turbo version of that tractor, the Kubota MX4700, and it has performed beautifully for me since I got it in 2012.
I second this. I have a L2501 with a Land Pride 60" brush hog and I take it up and down some of my rear access trails about 3 times a year. After a couple of years, the twiggy stuff had died and it's nearly indistinguishable from the lawn. I have really level land though so I keep the gauge wheel pretty low.
Just make sure there isn't a short stump hiding in the brush before you back in - I found out the hard way! The short stump was in a bunch of blackberries. When I hit it, the rear corner of the rotary cutter's metal shield bent inward. I managed to take some big chunks out of the ends of the blades before I could get the PTO disengaged. Fortunately, the swinging blades took the brunt of the hit, sparing the transmission or drive-train any damage. The blades weren't completely out of balance, but there's enough metal missing that some simple grinding wasn't going to make them even. New blades going on next week... Mine is a Land Pride RCR 1260 which I tow with a Kubota L2501 - works for my 10 acres.
Good idea to call 811 when you’re on a pipeline row to make sure there’s no above ground pipes or valve stems. Also to know where the pipe is so if it exposed, you don’t hit it or crush it under the weight of the tractor. Get with PA811 and make a video about safe digging, call before you dig.
When bumping into old dead trees and those with dead branches there is a danger dead limbs will fall on you, check for high up dead branches before you start work.
Thank you very much for making this video Neil! I have been backing up over some nasty - very tall - thickets (like 12 feet high in places). I back over things, but if I have a small tree, I pull it up and out with the front loader. This is the first tractor I ever owned, so it is a learning experience - I have lost a number of pins (Hitch Pins!) due to the play in a QH15, and my being a tad rough with it. I am wondering if being more gentle, and NOT using the QH15 (Land Pride Quick Hitch) might be better... I am almost done with the huge project, but I don't want to be doing damage to the tractor or mower (which I did ding a little). Again - thank you and your family for making all of these videos! They are VERY helpful! Watching and Supporting - I JOINED your network!
Just a video suggestion. How about going over the various cutters available, and their intended use? Including single/multi-spindles, wing mowers, etc., etc., etc.
IMHO: you should have adjusted the tail-wheel up some more to get the back of the mower down, then drive with the front up (3-point raised up) a little more. . doing this keeps the front from digging in on turns, stressing the arms of the 3-point to the side and the attaching points on the mower. it also allows the mower to chop stuff down in stages- front edge initially taking it down then as it moves twards the back it gets progressively shorter and more chopped up. the way you have there you only have the front edge doing all the work. it'll do a better job shredding up the small stuff also and taking the small twigs down to nothing instead of leaving little 4-6" high stalks.
To add to the safety oops, where is the hearing and eye protection. Shredder will toss a ton of stuff up and eyes are hard to regrow. Hearing is also a cumulative damage thing so protect it always. Rops is also a nice safety feature.
we have a kubota l3750, which is close in size, plus has a cab with a back window, and I always use eye and ear protection, the ear protection may be optional at low RPM with an open top... but in a cab, or at high RPM it is a must for sure. Remember it only takes about 70 decibels for 30 Minutes to permanently damage your hearing.
would have loved to get some footage of the area I spent almost 15 hours cutting (my first experience using a cutter - did lots of backing-up) hadn't been cared for in too many years the next area even longer, but less difficult because it's a smaller section, less of a hill, and mostly just young cherries everywhere instead of the huge variety of stuff in the first section looks entirely different, amazing, awesome
in PA? yes, groundhog holes, everywhere! be careful when you walk around it, or if kids go into it, running around in it is a great way to twist or break something
Just got one with about 4 hours on it. I can't get the pto pass the bearing groove. It was dirty in the spline reciever. So I put some penetrating oil on it. Didn't have time to mess with it. I'll get to it later, but is here a trick to sliding the splines together?
With earplugs and safety glasses you could be a professional. Keep the front of mower a couple inches above the ground when cutting backwards. It can pull slid bars off so most manufacturers warn no reverse mowing. I did so now the frame flexes as skid bars also braced the sides of bush hog.
great video! I'm just about to purchase a lightly used L3800 and part of the package includes a rotary mower. Dumb question time...if I am making trails through the bush, I assume I need to cut all the stumps down to grade level for anything 11/2" to 2" and bigger??? Rocks and bigger stumps are going to hit the belly and the mower will 'bounce' over? thanks
just got a 1260 and my question is at what level should the implement be. I noticed when I got mine it had a high point at the end and lower in the front. should it be level to the ground
This mower, Land Pride RCR1872, is something I need, and don't yet have a tractor to use it. Would it be too heavy for a L4701, or should I get the MX instead of the L47.
I'm not sure if you guys handle forestry mulchers but if you do it would be a good video. I've got one on an svl75 I can take it into brush like that and leave with it looking almost like a golf course
You might want to take it easy and check the area before you do jobs like that if you aren't a long time owner of the property because Farmers put steel rods about 1/2 inch in size in the ground around their fields to hook electric fencing on and some might just be left behind, they are normally 3 feet high with some under ground. I would help install them as a kid on the farm. They might not look good sticking out of the side of the cutter attachment.
I have the exact same tractor and how are you going forward and then reverse without changing gears 🤔 do you have a secret lever action control 😁 for real though I have to manually change from forward to reverse
Question: How come so many American tractors (or at least tractors marketed towards America) seem to lack a cabin, favoring instead an open design with a roll bar? Over here in europe you almost never see a tractor without a cabin, and when you do it's almost always an older tractor from back in the day.
these two videos go over the link set up. its shows the initial set up in part 1 and shows the final set up in part 2. be sure and watch both parts lots of great information in these two videos likely the best tutorials on the net. ruclips.net/p/PLLg8VIC7effpmAEk9ial1uEgZnVuByZjE
Neil, I have an older Kubota L4310 with a cab that I have made my #1 brush hog tractor on our hobby farm / hunting acreage. My kubota does not have a loader, could you recommend a grill guard attachment to push down brush from getting snared in the front grill? I want to keep debris away from the glass and not have the front filter suck up so much garbage. Thanks!
Yes, you can Make or Buy a grill guard, but for sure a loader is 90% better, Me and my Dad always ride the bucket low and bounce it off of everything like a feeler.
here is an excellent tutorial on setting up and using a brush hog correctly. its likely the best tutorial on the net. ruclips.net/p/PLLg8VIC7effpmAEk9ial1uEgZnVuByZjE
Neil is there any plans to compare the mx5200 to maybe say a work master or boomer new holland? Preferably a work master if that is the same class of tractor.
I'm looking to make my first purchase of a tractor after buying 10 acres in VT. I'm confused by the mixed safety messages in this vides. He's wearing a seatbelt with the roll bar in the down position...something he's instructed as something that should not be done in previous videos...Why would he not have the roll bar up when working an area he's admitted he's never traversed before???
So when would a skid steer with a cutter be a better choice than a tractor. Obviously you would not have to back over thicker brush when making trails.
Overall I'd say a skid steer setup is more rugged. It's also double the price of what I'm driving. A skid still would not have felt as stable on the hills as what this tractor does.
adjust your mower deck first, it needs to be an inch or two above the ground, that way its not just dragging everything. much better on your equipment & no scalping!
I agree, level or just slightly lower in front to minimize blade wear. If you want to mulch the brush a bit, higher in front will do the job at the expense of accelerated blade wear.
john dowe Think of it this way... blade higher in front, the blade makes a cut, and as the mower advances it cuts again, slightly lower on the same stem, then slightly lower again. The blade is cutting the same stem progressively lower multiple times versus cutting the stem only once if the blade is lower in front.
Nice property! Wish I could build a zip line lol. More important things on the farm. Where is the ROPS? Safety glasses? At least you got the seat belt.
I live in Alaska, will be looking to pick up a large mower this spring/summer (Kubota L2501). I've only used flail mowers behind GrandPa's old Ford 2000. I was going to go with a flail, but now I'm curious. What is better, what is benefit of flail vs. rotary. We used the old Flail for both rough and finish cutting. I'll be mostly using it for scrub brush, etc. Thanks for any suggestions! Corey
Anonymousgunguy, I'm (heavily) leaning towards the Flail. Not only for the compact size (hauling it up to AK from the lower 48) but because I recall it could do just about anything we needed it to. That being said, we didn't have many small saplings that needed to be tended to either. I'll be using it to clear the back of my property (Briars, old dead trees, few stumps, lots of brush/wild grass) additionally, I'll be helping my neighbor maintain their 3 acre yard. As with all thing implement, the more you have, the more people know you have the more requests you get! What brand Flail did you go with? Any feedback on it? What was the cost? Thanks!
Interesting video. This goes against everything I learned about brush hogging. For the size of the brush you are cutting down in this video, I was always told to drive over it, flattening with loader first. I am more concerned with my eyesight and hearing and rolling over than the underside of my tractor....
Yup a year late 🤣🤣 What size tractor is best will an L series work? Ear protection is good. I enjoy watching applications of machines. More like this would be great.
I have done many hours of heavy brush cutting with a L2501 HST and a Land Pride 60" rotary cutter. It is a BEAST and has handled some crazy thick bushes and brambles. I've pushed it (accidentally...) to cut some stuff about 1.5" in diameter and have not broken the shear bolt yet. 25hp means that sometimes I have to take a second to let the thing wind back up but I cut over a mile of virgin nature trail on 20 acres in about 2 days, plus clearing nearly an acre for a food plot. I have zero regrets with my L2501.
Why mow with the loader on? I have pretty much the same set up as you do. That loader weighs over a 1000 pounds, I know my tractor gets around much better with out the loader, and I cant remember ever mowing and wished I had the loader on. BTW, your loader is quick disconnect just like mind, and yes my loader is currently off the tractor, disconnected
I agree with the ROPS comments. My manual says if the ROPS are down, no seatbelt. ROPS up and put on the seatbelt!
I notice the grip bar on the left side to hold on to when getting on or off the tractor. Kubota pre-drills the right side. I purchased the right-side grip bar from my local dealer. It helps to hang on to when I am turned around to the right looking out the back. I have a large spirit level on my box blade and an aftermarket hydraulic control for lifting and tilting. The grip bar helps when you are constantly looking out the back at the level when grading a pad. Just letting folks know that the grip bar is available from Kubota.
Your the reason I'm going kubota. It's gonna be my very first tractor package. Your the MAN thanks 👍
He’s so charismatic, I just watched a guy drive a tractor for 13 minutes..😊
As always Neil, I love your videos, you always answer the questions that I'm wondering about. I'm off tomorrow to pick up my RCR1872 for my MX5800 and will be making quick work of those small trees and briar patches this weekend- THANKS!!
Best tractor videos on RUclips by far! Thank you!
Neil, thanks for all the great videos. I'll admit, I send my customers links to your you-tube channel quite often. One comment about the type of cutting you are doing in this video; When doing edges of fields with larger material, I often advise folks to lift the cutter up, back over the material, drop the cutter and pull forward. The reasoning is that it will not "lay down" the material, and you can chop it in finer pieces. Obviously being careful about flying material. Also, here in the North East, fields can be very rough - moving between forward and reverse we can sometimes "hook" the tailwheel into a rut which puts strain on it and sometimes can even bend it. I don't think you have as much of an issue where you are. Another great video!
This video. Good tip about keeping the turnbuckles loose so that the cutter has some give.
I learned valuable knowledge watching this, I have a woods 6 ft finish mower, but need and hope to get a bush hog soon, while I’ve never used one, these videos are of great help, thxs!
Hi Dave, I recently purchased a Woods Brush Bull rotary cutter or slasher as we call them in Australia. I'm very impressed with the quality of the machine and the thought that has gone into the design. The Land Pride that Neil is using in this clip doesn't look nearly as good as the Woods product.
Very accurate and truthful advice on the rotary cutter purpose and use. My old 10' cutter would clear a path destroying everthing in its way like a tornado! Not pretty when done....but certainly under control afterwards.
I prefer a small-medium sized cutter for ability to maneuver and get into spots - 10' is great for straight fields though
I would like to see more videos like this
Your point about the brush hog not performing like a finishing mower is well taken, but once an area has been brush-hogged a couple of times, you might be surprised how good it looks, though not the finish mower cut. I have a half-mile drive way with grass on each side, and a pond dam and powerline that I frequently brush hog, and it would be hard to tell the difference in cuts between the two implements. BTW, I have the non-turbo version of that tractor, the Kubota MX4700, and it has performed beautifully for me since I got it in 2012.
I second this. I have a L2501 with a Land Pride 60" brush hog and I take it up and down some of my rear access trails about 3 times a year. After a couple of years, the twiggy stuff had died and it's nearly indistinguishable from the lawn. I have really level land though so I keep the gauge wheel pretty low.
Just make sure there isn't a short stump hiding in the brush before you back in - I found out the hard way! The short stump was in a bunch of blackberries. When I hit it, the rear corner of the rotary cutter's metal shield bent inward. I managed to take some big chunks out of the ends of the blades before I could get the PTO disengaged. Fortunately, the swinging blades took the brunt of the hit, sparing the transmission or drive-train any damage.
The blades weren't completely out of balance, but there's enough metal missing that some simple grinding wasn't going to make them even.
New blades going on next week...
Mine is a Land Pride RCR 1260 which I tow with a Kubota L2501 - works for my 10 acres.
ditto
Good idea to call 811 when you’re on a pipeline row to make sure there’s no above ground pipes or valve stems. Also to know where the pipe is so if it exposed, you don’t hit it or crush it under the weight of the tractor. Get with PA811 and make a video about safe digging, call before you dig.
When bumping into old dead trees and those with dead branches there is a danger dead limbs will fall on you, check for high up dead branches before you start work.
Thank you very much for making this video Neil! I have been backing up over some nasty - very tall - thickets (like 12 feet high in places). I back over things, but if I have a small tree, I pull it up and out with the front loader. This is the first tractor I ever owned, so it is a learning experience - I have lost a number of pins (Hitch Pins!) due to the play in a QH15, and my being a tad rough with it. I am wondering if being more gentle, and NOT using the QH15 (Land Pride Quick Hitch) might be better... I am almost done with the huge project, but I don't want to be doing damage to the tractor or mower (which I did ding a little). Again - thank you and your family for making all of these videos! They are VERY helpful! Watching and Supporting - I JOINED your network!
Just a video suggestion. How about going over the various cutters available, and their intended use? Including single/multi-spindles, wing mowers, etc., etc., etc.
Those woods and brambles are a almost exact match to what I have here in Ohio. The trees. Everything.
some of the best videos I have seen otherwise, Neil. ROPS up. Thanks.
IMHO: you should have adjusted the tail-wheel up some more to get the back of the mower down, then drive with the front up (3-point raised up) a little more. . doing this keeps the front from digging in on turns, stressing the arms of the 3-point to the side and the attaching points on the mower. it also allows the mower to chop stuff down in stages- front edge initially taking it down then as it moves twards the back it gets progressively shorter and more chopped up. the way you have there you only have the front edge doing all the work. it'll do a better job shredding up the small stuff also and taking the small twigs down to nothing instead of leaving little 4-6" high stalks.
I agree when mowing forwards, but backwards, this setup might be good. :)
I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time to educate us. I wish you were closer, I would definitely buy my tractor from you.
I have that cutter, really wakes you up when it hits a rock
To add to the safety oops, where is the hearing and eye protection. Shredder will toss a ton of stuff up and eyes are hard to regrow. Hearing is also a cumulative damage thing so protect it always. Rops is also a nice safety feature.
Add a hard hat for those low branches too!
we have a kubota l3750, which is close in size, plus has a cab with a back window, and I always use eye and ear protection, the ear protection may be optional at low RPM with an open top... but in a cab, or at high RPM it is a must for sure. Remember it only takes about 70 decibels for 30 Minutes to permanently damage your hearing.
Aldi More
L
Joseph Greene and
would have loved to get some footage of the area I spent almost 15 hours cutting (my first experience using a cutter - did lots of backing-up)
hadn't been cared for in too many years
the next area even longer, but less difficult because it's a smaller section, less of a hill, and mostly just young cherries everywhere instead of the huge variety of stuff in the first section
looks entirely different, amazing, awesome
Really enjoy your videos extremely informative
I love rotary cutters. They're like a magic brush eraser.
in PA?
yes, groundhog holes, everywhere!
be careful when you walk around it, or if kids go into it, running around in it is a great way to twist or break something
I’d prefer a hammer flail mower mounted on the front so backing into is not necessary, just driving forward then reversing out of.
Just got one with about 4 hours on it. I can't get the pto pass the bearing groove. It was dirty in the spline reciever. So I put some penetrating oil on it. Didn't have time to mess with it. I'll get to it later, but is here a trick to sliding the splines together?
Why is this so satisfying to watch? Great video!
That's a really good way to get a flat tire!
Good way to get stuck too 😂
As always, great video. Thanks Neil!
Can you pls do a video of how to grease a PTO shaft and all the points and how to remove the shields
With earplugs and safety glasses you could be a professional.
Keep the front of mower a couple inches above the ground when cutting backwards. It can pull slid bars off so most manufacturers warn no reverse mowing.
I did so now the frame flexes as skid bars also braced the sides of bush hog.
I just got finished mowing briars myself. About 4 foot tall and inch diameter stalks. Thick clothing was mandatory haha.
Cutwater boat
Neil, you talk about turning part of your property into lawn. Can you walk through those steps from beginning to end.
start that project this spring.
@@MessicksEquip Nice! Looking forward to it.
Hey Neil, can you do a comparison of a 3 point rotary cutter and a skidloader rotary cutter? Thanks and I enjoy your videos!
Thank you for your insight with a cutter.
great video! I'm just about to purchase a lightly used L3800 and part of the package includes a rotary mower. Dumb question time...if I am making trails through the bush, I assume I need to cut all the stumps down to grade level for anything 11/2" to 2" and bigger??? Rocks and bigger stumps are going to hit the belly and the mower will 'bounce' over? thanks
Your camera man is a pretty brave soul to stand that close to a machine that can throw a rock 100 mph over 100 yards lol.
Why did you put your seatbelt on if you had the ROPS folded down?
Thank you for the hugely informative video. As others have noted...ROPS up, eye protection on, earplugs in!
just got a 1260 and my question is at what level should the implement be. I noticed when I got mine it had a high point at the end and lower in the front. should it be level to the ground
No, lowering the front is correct
@@MessicksEquip thanks.
This mower, Land Pride RCR1872, is something I need, and don't yet have a tractor to use it. Would it be too heavy for a L4701, or should I get the MX instead of the L47.
ROPS is down! But seatbelt on?
Do you use the same technique when mowing brambes/blackberry bushes?
Neil,, Safety First, ROP up..... lol just saying
I know. Like many others I am sure, I have habits and don't always take my own advice.
Rops down is ok. Just don't seatbelt yourself in when it's down.
AEM General Mower Safety Practices ruclips.net/video/EuktqJNAjhc/видео.html
🤦🏼♂️
If you tip over in an area like that, then its basically and act of God and it was your time.
I'm not sure if you guys handle forestry mulchers but if you do it would be a good video. I've got one on an svl75 I can take it into brush like that and leave with it looking almost like a golf course
You might want to take it easy and check the area before you do jobs like that if you aren't a long time owner of the property because Farmers put steel rods about 1/2 inch in size in the ground around their fields to hook electric fencing on and some might just be left behind, they are normally 3 feet high with some under ground. I would help install them as a kid on the farm. They might not look good sticking out of the side of the cutter attachment.
john ward r in a tire
New to tractors. Shouldn't you not put a seatbelt on with the ROPS down?
Would this also work for mowing clover food plots?
Thanks for showing how to use equipment.
Nice demonstration.
I have the exact same tractor and how are you going forward and then reverse without changing gears 🤔 do you have a secret lever action control 😁 for real though I have to manually change from forward to reverse
You have a gear drive, this is a hydrostatic. Different transmission
Neil, might want to look into getting the camera man hazard pay in these situations. He does know to run. LOL
Question: How come so many American tractors (or at least tractors marketed towards America) seem to lack a cabin, favoring instead an open design with a roll bar? Over here in europe you almost never see a tractor without a cabin, and when you do it's almost always an older tractor from back in the day.
once you get above this size, most of them do.
would like to see how you set up the links you talked about great video
these two videos go over the link set up. its shows the initial set up in part 1 and shows the final set up in part 2. be sure and watch both parts lots of great information in these two videos likely the best tutorials on the net.
ruclips.net/p/PLLg8VIC7effpmAEk9ial1uEgZnVuByZjE
Love the tractor and the vid! Great help!! Keep it up!😁😁
Neil, I have an older Kubota L4310 with a cab that I have made my #1 brush hog tractor on our hobby farm / hunting acreage.
My kubota does not have a loader, could you recommend a grill guard attachment to push down brush from getting snared in the front grill? I want to keep debris away from the glass and not have the front filter suck up so much garbage.
Thanks!
There are grill guards, but if you want to keep debris out you need something custom.
Yes, you can Make or Buy a grill guard, but for sure a loader is 90% better, Me and my Dad always ride the bucket low and bounce it off of everything like a feeler.
Very useful and informative. Thank you.
Can the RCR 1884 or RCR1872 be used on MF 375 ?
Yes
Thanks for the reply
Neil - front of deck digging into ground yet rear was couple inches above grade...need leveled or is that right ? Thanks
That is actually correct, I should have included that in the video. All mower decks should toe down in the front, and be slightly higher in the rear.
here is an excellent tutorial on setting up and using a brush hog correctly. its likely the best tutorial on the net.
ruclips.net/p/PLLg8VIC7effpmAEk9ial1uEgZnVuByZjE
For comparison, could a sub compact 24 do this job? Knowing it would take longer. But if that is all you had?
Sure
Wat is your favorite tractor and second if you own one wat kind do you have?
Always have the rops up if you can’t and only have the seat belt on if the tops is up. If the rops is down don’t put on the seat belt.
Neil is there any plans to compare the mx5200 to maybe say a work master or boomer new holland? Preferably a work master if that is the same class of tractor.
I'd cause some political problems with our vendors if I started doing comparison vidoes between them.
Messick Farm Equipment I understand. Makes perfect sense. Thank you for the reply.
I'm looking to make my first purchase of a tractor after buying 10 acres in VT. I'm confused by the mixed safety messages in this vides. He's wearing a seatbelt with the roll bar in the down position...something he's instructed as something that should not be done in previous videos...Why would he not have the roll bar up when working an area he's admitted he's never traversed before???
should have been. my habits are not perfect.
Could my BX 2380 run a 48" land pride bush hog with no problems?
A 12 series, yes
So when would a skid steer with a cutter be a better choice than a tractor. Obviously you would not have to back over thicker brush when making trails.
Overall I'd say a skid steer setup is more rugged. It's also double the price of what I'm driving. A skid still would not have felt as stable on the hills as what this tractor does.
Thanks for the insight. I knew it was more expensive but did not know how much more.
What size is the tractor?
My MX came with a grab handle on BOTH fenders.
Few differences between models.
Steering wheel spinners are great things.
adjust your mower deck first, it needs to be an inch or two above the ground, that way its not just dragging everything. much better on your equipment & no scalping!
I agree, level or just slightly lower in front to minimize blade wear. If you want to mulch the brush a bit, higher in front will do the job at the expense of accelerated blade wear.
wouldnt raising create less blade wear since the the blade is essentially making one cut instead of the double chop since the front would be raised?
john dowe Think of it this way... blade higher in front, the blade makes a cut, and as the mower advances it cuts again, slightly lower on the same stem, then slightly lower again. The blade is cutting the same stem progressively lower multiple times versus cutting the stem only once if the blade is lower in front.
In wanna see the zip line...
? Large ant hill's?
Thank you. I got some good tips.
Do kubota have down pressure on the 3 point hitch?
I don't believe any modern tractor does
Messick Farm Equipment John Deere does4066r
as an optional kit with an external cylinder. That can be done. Its not a standard feature with the tractors rock shaft pushing downward.
just curious.. what's your application? Other than a post hole auger, I'm not sure of a good application for this.
Messick Farm Equipment box blade and tiller
What's all that white stuff scattered out in the woods and sticking to your tires? We don't have anything like that here...........
Good video, and I'm sure you have the zip line done.
However you didn't have your ROPs up. LOL
Nice property! Wish I could build a zip line lol. More important things on the farm. Where is the ROPS? Safety glasses? At least you got the seat belt.
I live in Alaska, will be looking to pick up a large mower this spring/summer (Kubota L2501). I've only used flail mowers behind GrandPa's old Ford 2000. I was going to go with a flail, but now I'm curious. What is better, what is benefit of flail vs. rotary. We used the old Flail for both rough and finish cutting. I'll be mostly using it for scrub brush, etc. Thanks for any suggestions!
Corey
I have a flail vs rotary vid in the works
I've found the flail to be more versatile but can be more expensive. I have a Del Morino.
Anonymousgunguy, I'm (heavily) leaning towards the Flail. Not only for the compact size (hauling it up to AK from the lower 48) but because I recall it could do just about anything we needed it to. That being said, we didn't have many small saplings that needed to be tended to either. I'll be using it to clear the back of my property (Briars, old dead trees, few stumps, lots of brush/wild grass) additionally, I'll be helping my neighbor maintain their 3 acre yard. As with all thing implement, the more you have, the more people know you have the more requests you get!
What brand Flail did you go with? Any feedback on it? What was the cost?
Thanks!
I thought you weren’t supposed to wear your seatbelt with the roll bar down
Interesting video. This goes against everything I learned about brush hogging. For the size of the brush you are cutting down in this video, I was always told to drive over it, flattening with loader first. I am more concerned with my eyesight and hearing and rolling over than the underside of my tractor....
This guy has no idea what he is doing.
@@ampatriot you don't
You're putting in a zipline? You are awesome AF :)
Not gonna lie ive taken on brush like this with my stx38 deere edit: it is modified so the blades work like the blades on that machine there
I'd love to see pictures of that.
Nice video sir, lot of education..
No hearing protection? I keep foam earplugs available on my tractor.
Fun in the back forty. sdh in CT
Thanks for the video.
Yup a year late 🤣🤣
What size tractor is best will an L series work?
Ear protection is good.
I enjoy watching applications of machines. More like this would be great.
I have done many hours of heavy brush cutting with a L2501 HST and a Land Pride 60" rotary cutter. It is a BEAST and has handled some crazy thick bushes and brambles. I've pushed it (accidentally...) to cut some stuff about 1.5" in diameter and have not broken the shear bolt yet. 25hp means that sometimes I have to take a second to let the thing wind back up but I cut over a mile of virgin nature trail on 20 acres in about 2 days, plus clearing nearly an acre for a food plot. I have zero regrets with my L2501.
I would use a flail
seems like the drive shaft on that cutter is a bit bent? I can swear I see it wobbling up and down a little?
The telescoping plastic cover is wobbling a bit, not the PTO shaft
Why mow with the loader on? I have pretty much the same set up as you do. That loader weighs over a 1000 pounds, I know my tractor gets around much better with out the loader, and I cant remember ever mowing and wished I had the loader on. BTW, your loader is quick disconnect just like mind, and yes my loader is currently off the tractor, disconnected
Really good video
which kubota tractor ist this ?
Mx4800
@@MessicksEquip In the video you said MX5200 not 4800. Get it right Neil.
Is your personal tractor Neil?
That ROPS will do you a lot of good if you roll it.
Good video. Why bother with the seat belt if the ROPS isn’t utilized. No need.,
Diesel engines like higher RPM
Thank you! :)