Even backed out you are still grabbing more threads with a stronger bolt so you are stronger than stock, but not to maximum potential. They always recommend backing the stud out a bit, you want room for it to stretch and you don’t want it to hydrolock ether.
So why not put 2 nuts on the bottom of the stud and slowly grind off the exssive run out with no threads on it making sure not to temper the stud. Then set the nut on the top not quite flush as when your torque down some threads will be extended?
Because at $700 for the set of bolts it should work..... I found you have to keep the stud completley flush at the top or it hits the inside of the valve cover.
Think you really got the wrong studs with your kit the stud needs to bottom out because they will turn as you tighten they down not putting the correct torque on the studs and not enough clamping force. The stock bolts a stretch bolts torque to yield. I would just call arp and talk to them instead of that shop you bought them from. I did the 425 and just cut the pedestal down it’s not that big a deal to get done. Plus the valve covers fit better too. Just my thoughts.
They didn't turn as I tightened/ torqued, the moly slip saw to that. The consensus seems to be with these studs you do not want them bottomed in the block. I've got about 40,000km on them now, with 3 retorques hitting 65psi here and there and no problems yet.
Even backed out you are still grabbing more threads with a stronger bolt so you are stronger than stock, but not to maximum potential. They always recommend backing the stud out a bit, you want room for it to stretch and you don’t want it to hydrolock ether.
Thank YOU for doing this video. I am in the middle of doing this now and answers all my questions. Thanks again
Keeper/Retainer covers vs Rocker covers
So why not put 2 nuts on the bottom of the stud and slowly grind off the exssive run out with no threads on it making sure not to temper the stud. Then set the nut on the top not quite flush as when your torque down some threads will be extended?
Because at $700 for the set of bolts it should work..... I found you have to keep the stud completley flush at the top or it hits the inside of the valve cover.
Think you really got the wrong studs with your kit the stud needs to bottom out because they will turn as you tighten they down not putting the correct torque on the studs and not enough clamping force. The stock bolts a stretch bolts torque to yield. I would just call arp and talk to them instead of that shop you bought them from. I did the 425 and just cut the pedestal down it’s not that big a deal to get done. Plus the valve covers fit better too. Just my thoughts.
They didn't turn as I tightened/ torqued, the moly slip saw to that. The consensus seems to be with these studs you do not want them bottomed in the block. I've got about 40,000km on them now, with 3 retorques hitting 65psi here and there and no problems yet.
Did you do studs one by one? Did you give em the final torque straight away?
Follow the instructions.
So with your way bottom tapping is not required, isn't it? Thank you
No, but I highly highly highly recommend tapping clean the threads at the bottom of the holes in the block.
Can i get a link or something to get these?
www.crazycarlsturbos.com/product-p/247-4203b.htm