This is pretty much the ARP instructions in a video with your additional info about how and why. Very helpful to watch before doing the job. Thank you!
I worked for Harley_Davidson for 21yrs...this was exactly the same procedure that I came to use on them, for exactly the same reasons....never had a failure...and the 1340 motors were known for head/base gasket leaks/blowouts. Good procedure and good info fella!
i'll add this tidbit. Once installed, these studs are under an enormous amount of tension (just look at the tensile ratings as an indication). The 425/2000 series studs are a steel alloy. Exposure to water/coolant can corrode them over time. Even a small amount of surface rust on the area in tension can weaken it enough that they will literally snap in half. Being a nickel alloy, the 625s are much more resistant to corrosion. They basically won't ever fail this way. However, they are almost triple the price. But hey, if you want to play, then you gotta pay! Bottom line is, make sure you have a flat deck, a flat head and a good HG. Both are great, just wanted to bring it up.
👍👍... great info again feller... when retorquing,after a heat cycle(s), ...or not, is a person supposed to loosen the nut and torque again to final torque..???.. thank you
Whats your opinion on doing head studs on a b series cummins without changing the head gasket/ removing the head? Is the one at a time method just going to cause issues down the road? Thanks Rob
@@CUTTERUPROB would you start with the lowest or first torque value when replacing bolts with studs one at a time or skip to the intermediate torque spec.
I glad you brought this up . I remember years ago i had hear of the guys changing out the head bolt one at a time an installing studs . Seems it was a shop in Canada back then . So what method would you use to do that . I also head you can tighten the factory head bolts a few more lb but i probably just install studs . What method would you recommend on changing out the head bolts for studs one at a time with the head still in place if the head gasket it still in good shape or hope so lol Thanks for the videos and the information
I have done the one stud at a time for 15 years or so lol. I have tightened the stock bolts before but I am not a big fan of it myself. Broke a fat of them off in the block lol
How do you torque your head when you are just upgrading to studs without changing the head gasket. When your head is already torqued down stock and you just want to pull one at a time with a stud replacement.
Rob got a question, I have a 1997 fl60 frightliner cabriolet, it has 71k miles, auto Allison, it has a p pump on a 8.3 cummins, I would love to get more out of it power, smoke , torque, ect, it's a rv hauler but now it's a project truck. I'm very mechanical so let me no
Watch some of these videos. You can do alot of the same mods as a 12v. Second gen 94-98 ppump Cummins tech / how to ruclips.net/p/PLH2PGLhR53Kiz6CmOG6ZZvEaqXr1kqrBV
Thanks for the answer! I’m about to re torque my head after an install and was just wondering. This info will help me. On another note at what torque do you think those 2000s will start to yield or fail? I’m not planning on testing it I was just curious.
@@fanninrebel03 I have had these ones for almost 10 years in five different engines. They are still the same length as new ones. I wanted to see how much power I can make with 425s before I need 625s. 1100hp and counting lol
So i started installing the head studs on my first gen today and I lubed the top of the stud with the included lube (Xotic). That being said i put it on before the washer, and there is now lube under the washer. Will this lube under the washer hurt and will using too much lube on them hurt?
It just make the torque not what it should be at the end pull. I personally would just pull one washer at a time and cut them and retorque. But will it make a big difference likely not. But I like to do them best a can to make the best clamp load I can get
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This is pretty much the ARP instructions in a video with your additional info about how and why. Very helpful to watch before doing the job. Thank you!
I worked for Harley_Davidson for 21yrs...this was exactly the same procedure that I came to use on them, for exactly the same reasons....never had a failure...and the 1340 motors were known for head/base gasket leaks/blowouts. Good procedure and good info fella!
i'll add this tidbit.
Once installed, these studs are under an enormous amount of tension (just look at the tensile ratings as an indication). The 425/2000 series studs are a steel alloy. Exposure to water/coolant can corrode them over time. Even a small amount of surface rust on the area in tension can weaken it enough that they will literally snap in half. Being a nickel alloy, the 625s are much more resistant to corrosion. They basically won't ever fail this way. However, they are almost triple the price. But hey, if you want to play, then you gotta pay!
Bottom line is, make sure you have a flat deck, a flat head and a good HG. Both are great, just wanted to bring it up.
💯
I will listen to experience over head knowledge any day all day. Thanks for the videos.
👍👍... great info again feller... when retorquing,after a heat cycle(s), ...or not, is a person supposed to loosen the nut and torque again to final torque..???.. thank you
I just do a pull to your final torque
Whats your opinion on doing head studs on a b series cummins without changing the head gasket/ removing the head? Is the one at a time method just going to cause issues down the road? Thanks Rob
if the gasket is good i am fine with doing it i have done it lots of times.
@@CUTTERUPROB would you start with the lowest or first torque value when replacing bolts with studs one at a time or skip to the intermediate torque spec.
@@MADTEK-r5c when doing them 1 at a time I start at 100 ftlbs. Do all them that way and then do you last torque to you final amount
after 1000km retorque 10-15ft/pds over and an oil change. thanks Rob.
I glad you brought this up . I remember years ago i had hear of the guys changing out the head bolt one at a time an installing studs . Seems it was a shop in Canada back then . So what method would you use to do that . I also head you can tighten the factory head bolts a few more lb but i probably just install studs . What method would you recommend on changing out the head bolts for studs one at a time with the head still in place if the head gasket it still in good shape or hope so lol Thanks for the videos and the information
I have done the one stud at a time for 15 years or so lol. I have tightened the stock bolts before but I am not a big fan of it myself. Broke a fat of them off in the block lol
How do you torque your head when you are just upgrading to studs without changing the head gasket. When your head is already torqued down stock and you just want to pull one at a time with a stud replacement.
Just replace one at a time. Put the stud in and torque it to 100 ftpd and then after you get them all in do the last pull to 135
Rob got a question, I have a 1997 fl60 frightliner cabriolet, it has 71k miles, auto Allison, it has a p pump on a 8.3 cummins, I would love to get more out of it power, smoke , torque, ect, it's a rv hauler but now it's a project truck. I'm very mechanical so let me no
Watch some of these videos. You can do alot of the same mods as a 12v.
Second gen 94-98 ppump Cummins tech / how to
ruclips.net/p/PLH2PGLhR53Kiz6CmOG6ZZvEaqXr1kqrBV
@@CUTTERUPROB I can't find your store to order from?
It won’t be up till end of the month
So if ARP 2000s recommended torque is 125lb and you do 10lb over to 135lbs cold, should you only torque them to 125lbs when doing a hot retorque?
I do them to 135 all the time. Over time they will settle over time and will stay above 125 that way
Thanks for the answer! I’m about to re torque my head after an install and was just wondering. This info will help me. On another note at what torque do you think those 2000s will start to yield or fail? I’m not planning on testing it I was just curious.
@@fanninrebel03 I have them on my first gen at 155 lol
That’s awesome lol would they still be reusable at that point?
@@fanninrebel03 I have had these ones for almost 10 years in five different engines. They are still the same length as new ones. I wanted to see how much power I can make with 425s before I need 625s. 1100hp and counting lol
Arp 625s are going for 1500 bux a set now
What’s your opinion on 425s with a fire ring
If you going to spend the money do better studs. But that being said my first gen is that way with no problems yet
@@CUTTERUPROB thanks rob
So i started installing the head studs on my first gen today and I lubed the top of the stud with the included lube (Xotic). That being said i put it on before the washer, and there is now lube under the washer. Will this lube under the washer hurt and will using too much lube on them hurt?
It just make the torque not what it should be at the end pull. I personally would just pull one washer at a time and cut them and retorque. But will it make a big difference likely not. But I like to do them best a can to make the best clamp load I can get
@@CUTTERUPROB I didnt get them torqued down yet so I will pull them off and clean them before I torque. Thanks for the advice
.... aren't u supposed to be using Newton/meter's up there.....???😆😆
lol funny guy, if i did stuff in metric ya lol