Wow, as an ex truck mechanic (old school) I just cannot understand for the life of me how this is acceptable from a manufacturer. Basically a $50k , 5 year old car with low KMs pretty much bugged. Love you channel. keep up your great work 👍
I bought 2014 cx5 diesel a year ago. OMG….absolute NIGHTMARE. Had a new diff fitted. New engine fitted. Aircon issues. And now dash lights coming on! I tried selling it but seems everyone is smarter than me…..think I’ll trade it on a Toyota
You don't have to remove the timing cover to do this job, you just need a special tool to hold the oil pump sprocket. The timing and balancing is no problem aslong you assemble it the same way you disassemble it :)
The cx 5 and mazda 6 have the same engine i think. Can get the oil strainer off without taking the front end off. Take 4-5 bolts and it comes loose with the pipe. The injector seal lets air thru and this makes hard carbon parts which end up in pickup sump. Mazda problem nr 1 gen2, gen3
Hi mate I hope to get this done or have a go myself..I'm OK woth most things (currently rebuilding my 1402cc bike engine) you say 5/6 bolts do you mean bolts to the pump itself ? Obviously it has the chain attached . There is 1 video on RUclips a mechanic marks the chain etc where balance shaft is . Removes pump splits changes gause then reassembled logging up the marks
Theres a channel on here with a guy from Ireland called Kennedys Garage who has done a few vids on this problem...just look through his previous vids to find them. I had a 2015 CX5 and had the dreaded engine light/oil pressure light come on and on googling it found Kennedys garage where he explains it all. Needless to say i got rid of the car. The thing is its the diesel engine version of the CX5 and 6 that has all the problems of carbon build up...the petrol versions seem fine
@@FIFIDOUNE that I'm afraid I don't know. Maybe try a Google search although I would say it's mainly the diesel engines with over 40k miles... seems to be carbon build up at points around the engine and if not cleaned properly will clog up the engine and after that happens then it could be catastrophic. You could check out Kennedy's garage on RUclips and try sending him a message as he has seen a lot of the 2.2 engine through his garage.
The problem is the injector seals are leaking combustion and carbon inside the rocker cover. All the carbon makes its way to the sump and pick ip sucks it up.
So injector seals you mean the copper washers under the injectors? I've been chasing my tail on one if these for 6 months had engine rebuilt obviously cut new seats and I put injectors in on fresh washers
@@alanbeales4968 yeah the copper washers get blown after about 100000km and leak and leak combustion gas. Mazda updated the copper washers to harder alloy washer and increased tightening torque to fix this issue. But have to drop the sump and have a look at the oil pick up. It will be gunked up bad.
U can take the oil pump down without taking the timing cover off .. u need to take rocker cover off and clean and but injector washers in that’s the root of your problem..ps new oil pick up to..
I bought a CX5 diesel and hand issue after issue from 90k through to 130k Mazda covered most of the issues but later I learnt they were a whisker away from having to recall the whole lot because of oil pressure issues and catalytic converter problems. Money pit worst car I have ever owned followed closely by a vw golf
YEP IVE BEEN MECHANIC FOR 40 YRS ALL DIESELS SHOULD BE BANNED THERE CRAP...THAT MUCH CRAP ON THEM TO COST MORE ...THATS ALL DIESEL ARE GOOD FOR ...THROWING THOUSANDS AT IT AND STILL PIECE OF SHIT...LOL...Cheers
How about the wear on bearings, etc.? These carbon particles will be a major source of wear probs, I would guess.The oil filter had done a part job, but still inadequate?Well done -- good presentation.
Hi Phil from the UK... we had same issue on a mazda 6 same engine pickup blocked with carbon ended up doing injector seals happy days bloody cars regards Paul @phazellautos
The source of the issues in the the top end.. pull the valve cover off, the injector seal will have failed.. the little copper washer at the tip of the injector.. combustion is going past the injector and exhaust soot is inside the valve cover, pul the injectors and change the seals with the new part SH01-13-H51 x 4 is needed, be sore to lookup how to torque them down properly 2NM than undo by 90 degrees then do the second bolt to 2 NM then turn additional 230 degrees
I have been working on and around diesel engines of all sizes for the better part of 40 years. I dont think this is a fuel related problem or a blowby problem. I have never been in one of these engines but suspect it is the oil being cooked either in the turbo bearing housing or the piston under crown area do these use a hollow crown piston with coolin jets spraying the under crown or crow cavities? It is the kind of issue that I would associate with getting a quart out of a pint pot it's all to easy to keep turning up the wick on a diesel
Yeah , it is caused by the Diesel injector seat leaking for along time into the engine oil and oil not being changed for extended periods and no oil flush being used. just bad servicing , and mechanic should be telling customer of issue and customer should be doing something about it.
Thanks have one coming into the workshop probably going to have same issues is coding for that oil pressure control solenoid possibly going to be a waste of time replacing by the sounds of it but will check pressures and possible sludge, carbon build up,,,,did it stop coding?
its a simple fix just need new oil pick up and new injector washers thats where carbon gets into engine and dont need to take front off in order to take oil pump just undo one bolt holding the pump where chain sprocket is never loose any timing because its separate chain then rest of the bolts easy accessible and pump on the floor it tool me 2 hours too do this and put all back together
But how often does this fix need to be done? I just bought used cx5 diesel with 140k on a clock and two months in I am dealing with this problem. I'm worried how soon this will happen again.
Drive them hard change the oil before its due labouring these engines will clog them up ,if they're not driven properly these issues will appear. I Drive my Mazda 6 2.2 quite hard 220 kms on clock never a problem.
Very common issue carbon is blocking alot of galleries, oil pressure going max breaking oil chains is next . You need to replace the strainer Clean the cam gallery pipes that feeds all the bearings . Thrn start changing the oil every 5000km
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive yeah really sad. Had one hear in Auckland. 2014 CX5 2.2 skyactiv diesel. Blowing white smoke, diesel in oil, turbo bad, and it only done 95 000km. Out of warranty and they still owed finance of 15k. Mazda would not help
Did this issue get resolved in the 2019 2.2 diesels? I was about to buy one until I saw this. Please advise and thanks for the video, well shot and explained guys, good job.
I’m a Mazda mechanic and those SH engines sucks so bad. ingrown intake full of soot. injector leakage, bad oil pump, vacuum pump, head gasket, turbo, turbo solenoid, stuck valves and worn camshafts, Mazda says it’s the country diesel that mess with the engines but Mazda won’t admit it. It’s the EGR and turbo that really suck. I’m located in Norway and we do so many engine swaps because the engine seizes ever so often. and customers has to pay over 4000$. It’s a real shame Mazda can’t build quality Diesel engines. I personally own a 2.0 Mazda 3. No problems with the engine. 2,5 L has the head gasket problems
Fellow norwegian here with a 2015 diesel. I'm trying to understand how leaky injectors can generate carbon in the oil. Is there oil surrounding the middle part of the injector for cooling? And the compression blows air/diesel up that way?
Fellow Norwegian here aswell 👍 This sucks to read. Bought my 3 last summer, and thought I read what I could find about the engine that all these issues were with the MZR-CD engines. Well looks like I'm trading in mine with a gasoline engine before it shits itself. Mine has 104000km on the clock, luckily no issues so far, got the inlet and egr checked for soot and it's not too bad. Turbo and oil is fine. Only thing thats a bit annoying is the dpf regen, noticeable cut in power when it happens.
@@senseipt Dysene går jo gjennom toppdekselet og ned til sylinderen så en del av dysen ligger i olje . det er en kobberpakning som er trédd på dysen som passer på at kompresjonstrykket og drivstoffblandingen ikke skal komme videre opp i motoren inn til toppen. Men dessverre så ryker pakningene og da blir oljen forurenset av karbon og diesel som gjør at oljen miste smøreevnen og over tid blir til koks. Det blir som grus og stein. Som oftest får vi inn kundeklager om fusking, nødmodus og motorlampe. men da sjekker vi først oljenivået og peiler den. er oljen på X symbolet på peilepinnen så er det diesel i oljen. da vet vi som Mazda mekanikere dysepakningene er defekte og oljen er full av koks (herdet olje, steinflak. Som jeg kaller det) Men det er også innsuget som har grodd igjen av sot pga egr ventilen, små kjøreturer som motoren aldri bli varm nok og dieselen bare presser seg gjennom stempelringen. rask sjekk for å se om innsuget er tett er å ta ut MAP2 Manifold Absolute Pressure sensoren som sitter på innsugssiden. er den full av sot så er det tegn på tett innsug. peil også oljen for å se om oljen er på X symbolet. Er den det så få bilen inn på verkstedet så slepper man å få mer problemer som f.eks slitte rådelagre pga koks som tetter oljesilen og oljetrykket synker laaaangt ned… Det som er svakhet på SH 2.2 Diesel er kamakslene, løftetønnene, turbo som skjærer seg eller lokket mellom liten og stor turbo kollapser og kunden opplever turbotrykket over 3000rpm. Oljepumpen og silen tetter seg av koks og da får man jo opp oljelampen i dashbordet. turbo solenoider, vakuumpumpe, kan skrive en lang liste men tror at de fleste har litt kunnskap om kvaliteten på denne motoren ! En splitter ny 2.2 Diesel rett fra Mazda koster ca 130-150.000NOK. Forsikringsselskapet dekker Ca 35% og da må kunden punge ut ca 25-40.000NOK. det beste er å kvitte seg med diesel motorene ifra SkyActiv 2012-2018. Men hvis man kan skru og tør å røre de motorene så skal motoren vare lenge uten problemer. Men kundene rører ikke motoren
@@lessmasterdark ja det er ganske kjedelig og surt for kunden å punge ut tusenvis for at bilen skal rulle på norske veier. Jeg eier en Mazda 3 2.0 BN 2015 modell og den har ingen problemer med motoren. Tar service og det er det. Men det som går igjen på alle mazdaer uansett om det er diesel eller bensin så er det Speilmotorene, veldig dårlig kvalitet på bremseskivene på bakakselen, støtdemper innfestning som knekker pga irr, og lakken skal man ikke skryte så veldig mye av. men er en del rust på Cx3 ved skjørtene på kanalene. 2.0 SkyActiv er en kjempegod motor som holder. det man kan være litt uheldig med er oljesvetting fra toppdekselpakningen men det koster bare 2000kr for kunden
@@KoalaKoala00 Takk for fyldig svar. Jeg har sett et par andre ganske grundige videoer om problemet nå. På en av videoene så jeg at de tok ut en sensor til venstre for innsuget når de skulle rense egr og innsug. Er det der MAP2-sensoren står? På videoen var den like full av karbon som EGR og resten av innsuget, så jeg hadde allerede notert meg at jeg skulle nappe den ut og ta en titt. Jeg har ikke hatt noen problemer med bilen utenom at multireimen røk for noen måneder siden. Oljenivået ligger omtrent der det er etter oljeskift, og jeg skifter olje årlig med kjørelengde på ca 10 000km. Jeg har skrudd masse på MC og en del på bil. Men det er jo helst rutinejobber som bremser og oljeskift det går i. Jeg har forsikring med motorskade, så jeg er ikke veldig bekymret. Bare litt trist å høre at Mazda ikke bedre enn dette. Angående slitasje på kamaksel så har jeg skjønt det slik at dette kun gjelder for eksos-siden og at det skyldes for mykt materiale i noen av kammene? Vet du om dette ble forbedret på et tidspunkt eller har alle biler frem til 2018 dette problemet? Jeg har også fått med meg at dysepakningene har fått et nytt delenummer og lages av et annet materiale nå. Men ble det byttet materiale før 2018? Å rense EGR og inntak skal jeg alltids klare, men det spørs om jeg gidder. Jeg pleier å gi bånn pedal når bilen er varm og jeg skal inn på en motorvei, så jeg håper innsuget får blåst seg reint så mye som mulig. Når det gjelder injektorene så er jeg mer skeptisk til å begynne å demontere siden det virker å være en ganske spesiell prosedyre for stramming. Må se om jeg får tak i en manual som beskriver det. Jeg har ikke løftebukk heller så det spørs om jeg gidder å rote med bunnpanne og oljesil. Det blir vel elbil innen to år uansett. 🤣
Can I ask you a question about the engine. I have a possibility to buy a mazda 6 2.2 skyactiv 150hp 170000km but there is the problem with oil pressure. While normal driving (hot or cold) the oil pressure will not light, but when I drive it more dynamic the light will show up. Allegedly the car was at official dealer and they said that the oil pump chain is stretched, what I pretty do not belive but who knows. I am a mechanik so some sort of work I can manage myself on this car. How can I diagnose if it is just the typical problem or there will be a problem on crankshaft, bearings, etc... Replacing the timing chain, oil pump chain, oil sump, camshaft, fuel injector seals is no problem but total dismantling of the engine and problems on crankshaft, main and rod bearing is a no go for me... Thank you.
Was this car ever fixed properly? Having the same issue with my car and been told that it’s probably gonna need a new engine (£3000+). But they didn’t even try to come out with a fix. But my mate works for Mazda as a mechanic and he said he’s got 4 other cars in for the same issue. Just wondering if this fix worked as I’d just book it in for this done and hopefully save £3000 for a new engine that would probably have the same problem again in few thousand miles.
This is trouble! It all started with the oil pressure being too low. A few months ago we disassembled the whole engine and found that the camshaft was defective and a valve in the cylinder head was stuck. End of story, we replaced the camshaft, cylinder head, turbocharger, timing chain and all small parts. Have cleaned the EGR valves and throttle body. All the work we did ourselves but the spare parts were extremely expensive, we are now at about 6000€. The car still does not run 100%, as soon as the engine is warm, it starts to jerk. At idle and cold, the car drives and accelerates great. Maybe an idea?
Hi Johannes, I have the same problem with Mazda 6. The car at idle and cold seems ok, but when become warm or after a few kilometers, the low oil pressure warning light, often comes on. Did you find out a solution? Thanks
Did you change the 2 o-rings that are between block and oil pump? They can leak and drop pressure. Also oil pressure relief valves or solenoid might be dirty and stuck.
Hi could you please tell me where the oil pressure sensor is located on this engine. Have had injectors o rings changed and strainer replaced, however still getting low oil pressure message on dash
Most mazda diesel engine owners do not charge their oil regularly even mazda dealers in the UK claim they did but never do. This is a major problem with mazda.
Mazda never recalled and rectified these issues in their diesel engines. Mazda were rapidly growing in popularity in Ireland during the 90s and early 00s..But their troublesome diesels sealed their fate here and sales declined rapidly.. Big mistake on Mazdas behalf and it cost them in the long run.
I have a Mazda CX-5 2016 with a similar issue. I was obviously unaware as an issue at purchase, I paid £8750 3 months ago. The car is at 95000 miles. The warranty company has refused to pay for work and the dealer is not taking any responsibility. The garage has informed me that if they start work on the car I could have to pay £2000+ Any suggestions of what I can do now as I haven’t got a clue Suggestions welcome 👍🏽
A Honda K24 engine swap will fix it. Never would have imagined a Mazda being compared to a Captiva for reliability. A petrol CX5, as reliable as the sun rising in the morning. A Diesel CX5, as reliable as a politicians promise. The good news is, if you've got a petrol CX5, and you need some good low milage parts, for example an immaculate bumper bar, or a door, or even un worn interior parts to freshen yours up, there'll be plenty of pristine condition CX5 diesels being wrecked. Maybe an aftermarket money marking venture would be to convert the near worthless used diesels to petrol power?
I have one, any suggestions on how to make it last? I bought it at 117 000 km and I'm now at 183 000km from owning it for 3 years. The engine was replaced in 2020 by the previous owner at 100 000km. The only issue I've had since was the exhaust pressure sensor needed to be replaced in 2022. I did some preventative maintenance by cleaning out carbon from the intake manifold and EGR valves last year. I only fill it up with Ampol premium diesel, I am super strict with services every 10k and take it on the highway twice a week. I am unfortunately not in a good spot to sell the car but I am hoping to do some extra maintenance to get another couple years from it. Any tips?
@@am2am2am2amI am reading lots of confusing videos/articles regarding carbon build up. Is it true to say that it all stems from leaking injector seals? For example, deposits in the inlet manifold, contamination of the oil, deposits/blockage of the sump oil strainer? Some talk of unburnt fuel if the DPF regeneration is not allowed to complete itself? So which is the fix?
Watched twice thanks ( and other Gen6 Mazda6 videos )... however found this comment another video!!! ..... In Japan, Mazda 6Gen 2.2 Diesel vehicles are specified to change oil at 3000~5000km. I think the oil change guidelines in other areas are too long.
For what it looks like with your oil pump is the injector-seals leaking diesel into the top end and just designate everything also check AJ024E the intake grows full of kox
These first & second generation KE CX-5 diesel's are notorious for engine issues. Now the newer model KF CX-5 diesel's are having timing issues, Cracked heads, Con rods out the side of the blocks, Engines runaway & now they are coming out of factory warranty all these issues & more are coming to light. Good old Mazda reliability....👀🤦♂️ Don't buy a diesel Mazda!
Hi from the uk Its a shame that mazda havent sorted this issue out they have made it quite obvious that they cant build doesel engines and are not taking the problem seriously. I have heard that they deny that there is a problem. The only way to treat this is to advise against buying anything diesel from mazda. Quite a shame as the vehicles are good other than the deiesel models
Yeah. I think any good Mechanic knowing Diesel engines should point out the issue to the customer before it gets too bad, But some customers just don't want to spend the money.
Im having the identical issues w my car..Car engine shutting down between 60-80 kms..Awesome to drive but the diesel engine is bad..So far I had to change a vaccum pump & apparently cleaning the erg system and replacing the gaskets should fix it..
Hey mate you were right. Mazda charged me $850 to clean the EGR & replaced all the gaskets 2 days ago..And guess what..Same problem happened today. Engine light came up, then oil pressure lights then no power to the engine. had to stop every 10mins..Very disappointed w Mazda dealer. Is your shop located in Melb / Vic by any chance?? Car has abt 158000kms
Have to unscrew the oil pump sprocket with special tool or ingenuity, and slide it off. Then drop the pump+balancer. Separate them a bit and get to the awkward screw then you can replace the strainer. Just mark the sprocket and chain somehow so you don't skip a tooth.
i simply flushed and changed the oil strainer (thats the job of the strainer) catches all the carbon stuff... Cars running sweat as a nut and still running 85000 miles and counting, this guy over thinks it!
My oil pump was as clean as a whistle the bottom end was super clean after the flush and of course the strainer was rammed full of Carbon, but the rest of the engine was OK, I've not taken the rocker off to check the head as the engines running nicely no erroneous noises 7000 miles and still good
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive those craptivas are the worst cars! Owned one and had to take my local dealer to court to get it fixed. It would burn 2 litres of oil in 1000km and they said this was “acceptable amount” ended up winning and getting a full refund on the car
Wow, as an ex truck mechanic (old school) I just cannot understand for the life of me how this is acceptable from a manufacturer. Basically a $50k , 5 year old car with low KMs pretty much bugged.
Love you channel. keep up your great work 👍
MORAL OF THE STORY IS ...
DONT OWN A DIESEL...
ALREADY BANNED IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES...CANT WAIT FOR OZIES TO CATCH UP AND WAKE UP...Cheers...
Change injector seal , clean strainer in the sump she'll be good again . Common problem with them diesel engine
I bought 2014 cx5 diesel a year ago. OMG….absolute NIGHTMARE. Had a new diff fitted. New engine fitted. Aircon issues. And now dash lights coming on! I tried selling it but seems everyone is smarter than me…..think I’ll trade it on a Toyota
You don't have to remove the timing cover to do this job, you just need a special tool to hold the oil pump sprocket. The timing and balancing is no problem aslong you assemble it the same way you disassemble it :)
The cx 5 and mazda 6 have the same engine i think. Can get the oil strainer off without taking the front end off. Take 4-5 bolts and it comes loose with the pipe. The injector seal lets air thru and this makes hard carbon parts which end up in pickup sump. Mazda problem nr 1 gen2, gen3
Hi mate I hope to get this done or have a go myself..I'm OK woth most things (currently rebuilding my 1402cc bike engine) you say 5/6 bolts do you mean bolts to the pump itself ? Obviously it has the chain attached . There is 1 video on RUclips a mechanic marks the chain etc where balance shaft is . Removes pump splits changes gause then reassembled logging up the marks
Theres a channel on here with a guy from Ireland called Kennedys Garage who has done a few vids on this problem...just look through his previous vids to find them. I had a 2015 CX5 and had the dreaded engine light/oil pressure light come on and on googling it found Kennedys garage where he explains it all. Needless to say i got rid of the car. The thing is its the diesel engine version of the CX5 and 6 that has all the problems of carbon build up...the petrol versions seem fine
Hello. Do newer CX-5 diesel versions have the same problem?
@@FIFIDOUNE that I'm afraid I don't know. Maybe try a Google search although I would say it's mainly the diesel engines with over 40k miles... seems to be carbon build up at points around the engine and if not cleaned properly will clog up the engine and after that happens then it could be catastrophic. You could check out Kennedy's garage on RUclips and try sending him a message as he has seen a lot of the 2.2 engine through his garage.
@@markgourley3745Thanks
Should of sent it to Mazda... Replaced so many engines under warranty.. known faults.. exhaust cam and turbo too
The problem is the injector seals are leaking combustion and carbon inside the rocker cover. All the carbon makes its way to the sump and pick ip sucks it up.
So injector seals you mean the copper washers under the injectors?
I've been chasing my tail on one if these for 6 months had engine rebuilt obviously cut new seats and I put injectors in on fresh washers
@@alanbeales4968 yeah the copper washers get blown after about 100000km and leak and leak combustion gas. Mazda updated the copper washers to harder alloy washer and increased tightening torque to fix this issue.
But have to drop the sump and have a look at the oil pick up. It will be gunked up bad.
@@enesfazlic6017 last I checked theure 2nm with angled turn?
U can take the oil pump down without taking the timing cover off .. u need to take rocker cover off and clean and but injector washers in that’s the root of your problem..ps new oil pick up to..
I bought a CX5 diesel and hand issue after issue from 90k through to 130k
Mazda covered most of the issues but later I learnt they were a whisker away from having to recall the whole lot because of oil pressure issues and catalytic converter problems. Money pit worst car I have ever owned followed closely by a vw golf
I bet your life’s better now… I assume you offloaded your cx5?
I can’t wait to get rid of mine! Can’t wait
@@barsixful haven’t regretted it for a nano second. Good riddance CX5
YEP IVE BEEN MECHANIC FOR 40 YRS
ALL DIESELS SHOULD BE BANNED
THERE CRAP...THAT MUCH CRAP ON THEM TO COST MORE ...THATS ALL DIESEL ARE GOOD FOR ...THROWING THOUSANDS AT IT AND STILL PIECE OF SHIT...LOL...Cheers
How about the wear on bearings, etc.? These carbon particles will be a major source of wear probs, I would guess.The oil filter had done a part job, but still inadequate?Well done -- good presentation.
Yes , Not good at all.
I've seen a video where they drop pump without disassembling it all as such take a look
Another great video Phil, thanks mate.
Hi Phil from the UK... we had same issue on a mazda 6 same engine pickup blocked with carbon ended up doing injector seals happy days bloody cars regards Paul @phazellautos
OK now mate?
The source of the issues in the the top end.. pull the valve cover off, the injector seal will have failed.. the little copper washer at the tip of the injector.. combustion is going past the injector and exhaust soot is inside the valve cover, pul the injectors and change the seals with the new part SH01-13-H51 x 4 is needed, be sore to lookup how to torque them down properly 2NM than undo by 90 degrees then do the second bolt to 2 NM then turn additional 230 degrees
I have been working on and around diesel engines of all sizes for the better part of 40 years. I dont think this is a fuel related problem or a blowby problem. I have never been in one of these engines but suspect it is the oil being cooked either in the turbo bearing housing or the piston under crown area do these use a hollow crown piston with coolin jets spraying the under crown or crow cavities? It is the kind of issue that I would associate with getting a quart out of a pint pot it's all to easy to keep turning up the wick on a diesel
Yeah , it is caused by the Diesel injector seat leaking for along time into the engine oil and oil not being changed for extended periods and no oil flush being used. just bad servicing , and mechanic should be telling customer of issue and customer should be doing something about it.
Thanks have one coming into the workshop probably going to have same issues is coding for that oil pressure control solenoid possibly going to be a waste of time replacing by the sounds of it but will check pressures and possible sludge, carbon build up,,,,did it stop coding?
Yes it has so far. but hasn't help his wife putting petrol into the tank....
its a simple fix just need new oil pick up and new injector washers thats where carbon gets into engine and dont need to take front off in order to take oil pump just undo one bolt holding the pump where chain sprocket is never loose any timing because its separate chain then rest of the bolts easy accessible and pump on the floor it tool me 2 hours too do this and put all back together
But how often does this fix need to be done? I just bought used cx5 diesel with 140k on a clock and two months in I am dealing with this problem.
I'm worried how soon this will happen again.
@@renzostar1753 get rid of car now, please 😢
You can take it off, it's just a bit fiddly, you don't have to drop the front end, allow 1.5 hours for the job of replacing the oil strainer.
Drive them hard change the oil before its due labouring these engines will clog them up ,if they're not driven properly these issues will appear. I Drive my Mazda 6 2.2 quite hard 220 kms on clock never a problem.
Is it the same engine? Anything else you can recommend? Thank you
Very common issue carbon is blocking alot of galleries, oil pressure going max breaking oil chains is next .
You need to replace the strainer
Clean the cam gallery pipes that feeds all the bearings . Thrn start changing the oil every 5000km
Yep
The absolute worse engine Mazda made. In New Zealand, you can't get a good used motor. The wreckers say, you won't get one.
Money pit for sure
Yeah not good , felt sorry for him, he came down and had a look for him shelf , hence why we put it back together.
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive yeah really sad. Had one hear in Auckland. 2014 CX5 2.2 skyactiv diesel. Blowing white smoke, diesel in oil, turbo bad, and it only done 95 000km. Out of warranty and they still owed finance of 15k.
Mazda would not help
Did this issue get resolved in the 2019 2.2 diesels? I was about to buy one until I saw this. Please advise and thanks for the video, well shot and explained guys, good job.
No. As you will see in the comments , the car is still driving today. [But i would not want to own that car] But its still going.
I’m a Mazda mechanic and those SH engines sucks so bad. ingrown intake full of soot. injector leakage, bad oil pump, vacuum pump, head gasket, turbo, turbo solenoid, stuck valves and worn camshafts, Mazda says it’s the country diesel that mess with the engines but Mazda won’t admit it. It’s the EGR and turbo that really suck.
I’m located in Norway and we do so many engine swaps because the engine seizes ever so often. and customers has to pay over 4000$. It’s a real shame Mazda can’t build quality Diesel engines. I personally own a 2.0 Mazda 3. No problems with the engine. 2,5 L has the head gasket problems
Fellow norwegian here with a 2015 diesel. I'm trying to understand how leaky injectors can generate carbon in the oil. Is there oil surrounding the middle part of the injector for cooling? And the compression blows air/diesel up that way?
Fellow Norwegian here aswell 👍
This sucks to read. Bought my 3 last summer, and thought I read what I could find about the engine that all these issues were with the MZR-CD engines. Well looks like I'm trading in mine with a gasoline engine before it shits itself.
Mine has 104000km on the clock, luckily no issues so far, got the inlet and egr checked for soot and it's not too bad. Turbo and oil is fine. Only thing thats a bit annoying is the dpf regen, noticeable cut in power when it happens.
@@senseipt Dysene går jo gjennom toppdekselet og ned til sylinderen så en del av dysen ligger i olje . det er en kobberpakning som er trédd på dysen som passer på at kompresjonstrykket og drivstoffblandingen ikke skal komme videre opp i motoren inn til toppen. Men dessverre så ryker pakningene og da blir oljen forurenset av karbon og diesel som gjør at oljen miste smøreevnen og over tid blir til koks. Det blir som grus og stein.
Som oftest får vi inn kundeklager om fusking, nødmodus og motorlampe. men da sjekker vi først oljenivået og peiler den. er oljen på X symbolet på peilepinnen så er det diesel i oljen. da vet vi som Mazda mekanikere dysepakningene er defekte og oljen er full av koks (herdet olje, steinflak. Som jeg kaller det)
Men det er også innsuget som har grodd igjen av sot pga egr ventilen, små kjøreturer som motoren aldri bli varm nok og dieselen bare presser seg gjennom stempelringen.
rask sjekk for å se om innsuget er tett er å ta ut MAP2 Manifold Absolute Pressure sensoren som sitter på innsugssiden. er den full av sot så er det tegn på tett innsug. peil også oljen for å se om oljen er på X symbolet. Er den det så få bilen inn på verkstedet så slepper man å få mer problemer som f.eks slitte rådelagre pga koks som tetter oljesilen og oljetrykket synker laaaangt ned…
Det som er svakhet på SH 2.2 Diesel er kamakslene, løftetønnene, turbo som skjærer seg eller lokket mellom liten og stor turbo kollapser og kunden opplever turbotrykket over 3000rpm. Oljepumpen og silen tetter seg av koks og da får man jo opp oljelampen i dashbordet. turbo solenoider, vakuumpumpe, kan skrive en lang liste men tror at de fleste har litt kunnskap om kvaliteten på denne motoren !
En splitter ny 2.2 Diesel rett fra Mazda koster ca 130-150.000NOK. Forsikringsselskapet dekker Ca 35% og da må kunden punge ut ca 25-40.000NOK. det beste er å kvitte seg med diesel motorene ifra SkyActiv 2012-2018. Men hvis man kan skru og tør å røre de motorene så skal motoren vare lenge uten problemer. Men kundene rører ikke motoren
@@lessmasterdark ja det er ganske kjedelig og surt for kunden å punge ut tusenvis for at bilen skal rulle på norske veier. Jeg eier en Mazda 3 2.0 BN 2015 modell og den har ingen problemer med motoren. Tar service og det er det.
Men det som går igjen på alle mazdaer uansett om det er diesel eller bensin så er det Speilmotorene, veldig dårlig kvalitet på bremseskivene på bakakselen, støtdemper innfestning som knekker pga irr, og lakken skal man ikke skryte så veldig mye av. men er en del rust på Cx3 ved skjørtene på kanalene.
2.0 SkyActiv er en kjempegod motor som holder. det man kan være litt uheldig med er oljesvetting fra toppdekselpakningen men det koster bare 2000kr for kunden
@@KoalaKoala00 Takk for fyldig svar. Jeg har sett et par andre ganske grundige videoer om problemet nå. På en av videoene så jeg at de tok ut en sensor til venstre for innsuget når de skulle rense egr og innsug. Er det der MAP2-sensoren står? På videoen var den like full av karbon som EGR og resten av innsuget, så jeg hadde allerede notert meg at jeg skulle nappe den ut og ta en titt. Jeg har ikke hatt noen problemer med bilen utenom at multireimen røk for noen måneder siden. Oljenivået ligger omtrent der det er etter oljeskift, og jeg skifter olje årlig med kjørelengde på ca 10 000km. Jeg har skrudd masse på MC og en del på bil. Men det er jo helst rutinejobber som bremser og oljeskift det går i. Jeg har forsikring med motorskade, så jeg er ikke veldig bekymret. Bare litt trist å høre at Mazda ikke bedre enn dette. Angående slitasje på kamaksel så har jeg skjønt det slik at dette kun gjelder for eksos-siden og at det skyldes for mykt materiale i noen av kammene? Vet du om dette ble forbedret på et tidspunkt eller har alle biler frem til 2018 dette problemet? Jeg har også fått med meg at dysepakningene har fått et nytt delenummer og lages av et annet materiale nå. Men ble det byttet materiale før 2018? Å rense EGR og inntak skal jeg alltids klare, men det spørs om jeg gidder. Jeg pleier å gi bånn pedal når bilen er varm og jeg skal inn på en motorvei, så jeg håper innsuget får blåst seg reint så mye som mulig. Når det gjelder injektorene så er jeg mer skeptisk til å begynne å demontere siden det virker å være en ganske spesiell prosedyre for stramming. Må se om jeg får tak i en manual som beskriver det. Jeg har ikke løftebukk heller så det spørs om jeg gidder å rote med bunnpanne og oljesil. Det blir vel elbil innen to år uansett. 🤣
Can I ask you a question about the engine. I have a possibility to buy a mazda 6 2.2 skyactiv 150hp 170000km but there is the problem with oil pressure. While normal driving (hot or cold) the oil pressure will not light, but when I drive it more dynamic the light will show up. Allegedly the car was at official dealer and they said that the oil pump chain is stretched, what I pretty do not belive but who knows. I am a mechanik so some sort of work I can manage myself on this car. How can I diagnose if it is just the typical problem or there will be a problem on crankshaft, bearings, etc... Replacing the timing chain, oil pump chain, oil sump, camshaft, fuel injector seals is no problem but total dismantling of the engine and problems on crankshaft, main and rod bearing is a no go for me... Thank you.
I wonder how many oil changes they did without changing the filter!
Was this car ever fixed properly? Having the same issue with my car and been told that it’s probably gonna need a new engine (£3000+). But they didn’t even try to come out with a fix. But my mate works for Mazda as a mechanic and he said he’s got 4 other cars in for the same issue.
Just wondering if this fix worked as I’d just book it in for this done and hopefully save £3000 for a new engine that would probably have the same problem again in few thousand miles.
well the car is still driving. but i would say it will fail eventually
This is trouble! It all started with the oil pressure being too low. A few months ago we disassembled the whole engine and found that the camshaft was defective and a valve in the cylinder head was stuck. End of story, we replaced the camshaft, cylinder head, turbocharger, timing chain and all small parts. Have cleaned the EGR valves and throttle body. All the work we did ourselves but the spare parts were extremely expensive, we are now at about 6000€.
The car still does not run 100%, as soon as the engine is warm, it starts to jerk. At idle and cold, the car drives and accelerates great. Maybe an idea?
Hi Johannes, I have the same problem with Mazda 6. The car at idle and cold seems ok, but when become warm or after a few kilometers, the low oil pressure warning light, often comes on. Did you find out a solution? Thanks
Did you change the 2 o-rings that are between block and oil pump? They can leak and drop pressure. Also oil pressure relief valves or solenoid might be dirty and stuck.
Hi could you please tell me where the oil pressure sensor is located on this engine. Have had injectors o rings changed and strainer replaced, however still getting low oil pressure message on dash
it is on the front of the engine block towards the radiator under the manifold towards the gearbox
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive Thankyou very much. Will try the sensor next
Same for me. Mazda asks me to replace the engine.
all about injector seal leak, carbon geting in to oil and clog all lubricant pipes
Most mazda diesel engine owners do not charge their oil regularly even mazda dealers in the UK claim they did but never do. This is a major problem with mazda.
Correct.
Mazda never recalled and rectified these issues in their diesel engines. Mazda were rapidly growing in popularity in Ireland during the 90s and early 00s..But their troublesome diesels sealed their fate here and sales declined rapidly.. Big mistake on Mazdas behalf and it cost them in the long run.
Yeah spot on, I have a mazda 6 2.2 diesel and it has been nothing but trouble, I will never buy a mazda again!
@@ShaunCollins-qj2sf The Sky active are actually worse than the 2.2s used in the GH model 6...Instead of improving.. .. They got worse..
I have a Mazda CX-5 2016 with a similar issue.
I was obviously unaware as an issue at purchase, I paid £8750 3 months ago.
The car is at 95000 miles.
The warranty company has refused to pay for work and the dealer is not taking any responsibility.
The garage has informed me that if they start work on the car I could have to pay £2000+
Any suggestions of what I can do now as I haven’t got a clue
Suggestions welcome 👍🏽
well you need to start somewhere
What do you recommend for engine flush for diesel's Phil ? Something I can buy off the shelf at my local auto shop.
Na we use workshop only products from BG
Xado is very good also liqui Molly
A Honda K24 engine swap will fix it.
Never would have imagined a Mazda being compared to a Captiva for reliability.
A petrol CX5, as reliable as the sun rising in the morning.
A Diesel CX5, as reliable as a politicians promise.
The good news is, if you've got a petrol CX5, and you need some good low milage parts, for example an immaculate bumper bar, or a door, or even un worn interior parts to freshen yours up, there'll be plenty of pristine condition CX5 diesels being wrecked.
Maybe an aftermarket money marking venture would be to convert the near worthless used diesels to petrol power?
I have one, any suggestions on how to make it last? I bought it at 117 000 km and I'm now at 183 000km from owning it for 3 years. The engine was replaced in 2020 by the previous owner at 100 000km. The only issue I've had since was the exhaust pressure sensor needed to be replaced in 2022. I did some preventative maintenance by cleaning out carbon from the intake manifold and EGR valves last year. I only fill it up with Ampol premium diesel, I am super strict with services every 10k and take it on the highway twice a week. I am unfortunately not in a good spot to sell the car but I am hoping to do some extra maintenance to get another couple years from it. Any tips?
Make sure you check injectors seats and change washers every 40 k km. Oil change every 10 k and you should be fine. Probkem is a blowby on injectors.
@@am2am2am2amI am reading lots of confusing videos/articles regarding carbon build up. Is it true to say that it all stems from leaking injector seals? For example, deposits in the inlet manifold, contamination of the oil, deposits/blockage of the sump oil strainer? Some talk of unburnt fuel if the DPF regeneration is not allowed to complete itself? So which is the fix?
Did you do a new oil strainer , there common to clog up ??.
did you watch the video ?. No
Watched twice thanks ( and other Gen6 Mazda6 videos )... however found this comment another video!!!
.....
In Japan, Mazda 6Gen 2.2 Diesel vehicles are specified to change oil at 3000~5000km.
I think the oil change guidelines in other areas are too long.
For what it looks like with your oil pump is the injector-seals leaking diesel into the top end and just designate everything
also check AJ024E the intake grows full of kox
The engines run at 97deg -103deg its no wonder its buggered especially with 15000km service intervals ,
Yeah they are bad..
These engines need to have 5000km service intervals
Yes correct.....
Iven oil change only
Mazda should recall all diesel vehicles and never make them again. With this much required maintenance they are more likely to sell EVs.
Wouldn’t need it if people used diesel engines for what they were made for. He said it himself “short trips’
I do regular service and still have this problem.
Mitsubishi are crap too now avoid mazada and mitsubishi diesels
These first & second generation KE CX-5 diesel's are notorious for engine issues. Now the newer model KF CX-5 diesel's are having timing issues, Cracked heads, Con rods out the side of the blocks, Engines runaway & now they are coming out of factory warranty all these issues & more are coming to light. Good old Mazda reliability....👀🤦♂️ Don't buy a diesel Mazda!
Thank you for your advice
Thank u
YEP...DONT BUY A. DIESEL. EVER..!
GO BACK TO ELECTRIC LIKE WAS IN 1828.!
Hi from the uk
Its a shame that mazda havent sorted this issue out they have made it quite obvious that they cant build doesel engines and are not taking the problem seriously. I have heard that they deny that there is a problem.
The only way to treat this is to advise against buying anything diesel from mazda. Quite a shame as the vehicles are good other than the deiesel models
Yeah. I think any good Mechanic knowing Diesel engines should point out the issue to the customer before it gets too bad, But some customers just don't want to spend the money.
Black death on the bottom end😂
Are the petrol cx5s problematic ?
No. Gasoline engines are safe.
Mazda can't do diesels I guess..Funny how the 2.5L normally aspirated are rock solid
Im having the identical issues w my car..Car engine shutting down between 60-80 kms..Awesome to drive but the diesel engine is bad..So far I had to change a vaccum pump & apparently cleaning the erg system and replacing the gaskets should fix it..
i don't think so ?
Hey mate you were right. Mazda charged me $850 to clean the EGR & replaced all the gaskets 2 days ago..And guess what..Same problem happened today. Engine light came up, then oil pressure lights then no power to the engine. had to stop every 10mins..Very disappointed w Mazda dealer. Is your shop located in Melb / Vic by any chance?? Car has abt 158000kms
@@paulyarele5971 yeah sorry mate we are in Sydney.
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive No probs mate. Thks
You'd have to be into sadomasochism to buy a modern Diesel in my book.
It's not strange for that type engine
Correct. The Diesel injectors failed on it 2 weeks ago. Did the injectors and it's still going.
People here in 🇰🇪 always complain on gaskets issues
ford cvh engines from 1980s same
Dude, the strainer comes off.
Dude. No it doesn't
Have to unscrew the oil pump sprocket with special tool or ingenuity, and slide it off. Then drop the pump+balancer. Separate them a bit and get to the awkward screw then you can replace the strainer.
Just mark the sprocket and chain somehow so you don't skip a tooth.
i simply flushed and changed the oil strainer (thats the job of the strainer) catches all the carbon stuff... Cars running sweat as a nut and still running 85000 miles and counting, this guy over thinks it!
You obviously have no idea of the problem at hand here. [And you CAN NOT just change the strainer.]
Cars still running 5000 miles and counting
@@everythingandanything4102 AND ? So is the one in the video , [but i wouldn't own it.] it doesn't sound great.
My oil pump was as clean as a whistle the bottom end was super clean after the flush and of course the strainer was rammed full of Carbon, but the rest of the engine was OK, I've not taken the rocker off to check the head as the engines running nicely no erroneous noises 7000 miles and still good
Still running?@@everythingandanything4102
at 5:15 you said Craptiva wrong
Really ?? how so? please explain ?
@@PTPrecisionAutomotive those craptivas are the worst cars! Owned one and had to take my local dealer to court to get it fixed. It would burn 2 litres of oil in 1000km and they said this was “acceptable amount” ended up winning and getting a full refund on the car
@@Vikturus22 Oh Shit, Thats not good.
U can remove pump without stipping whole side just need to unbolt chain wheel and 8 bolts pump out £1000??? Just big laugh 😂😂😂😂
Get a Tesla
Yeah Sure where are you going to plug it in????