Absolutely phenomenal job 👏. Idk if you've properly patted yourself on the back for this design but it's a true reprap and I love it! I'm all for high-speed printing and fancy metal but the folks such as yourself putting in work to lower the cost and complexity of 3D printing are the true champions 🏆.
@Rolohaun I feel like the major achievement of the Rook is that it's the first CoreXY which (at least from the perspective of someone who still has to start building it 😂) seems both easier and cheaper to put together than the average commercial bedslinger kit. That makes it a very refreshing platform.
It's gonna be a fun printer to pair with creality sonic pad, gonna start printing one in transparent petg tmr. Been reading the mods on discord and attracted by the idea of it, thanks for another amazing printer!!
In the interest of keeping costs and complexity low, I recommend the Inovato Quadra to run Klipper. It comes ready to boot Linux out of the box (power cable, enclosure, and even HDMI cable are included) and KIAUH runs on it just fine to get Klipper going.
Thanks for this video. I have all of my parts printed and have rounded up most of the hardware. I even managed to reuse some of the parts from the very first printer I built many years ago so that is fun.
Absolutely AWESOME work here! And printable on a 200x200? Incredible! I would say MOST of us watching this have that cabability in our printer arsenal ;-) My Plan for this little gem, is to build one for My Grandaughter, and one for my Nephew. (8 and 11 Respectively, but with heavy nerd adult supervision in both households) I'll be modifying a few things as follows: - Raspi Zero w 2 with Klipper/mainsail for my MCU - SKR3 Full Size (For them to Grow into, Or build a better Printer later on) - Taller Base and Universal Board Mounts for Electronics built underneath - External 300 Watt Power supply, Cased, with XT60/90 Connector - Space for a 3.5-4.5" Klipperscreen Touch interface / Status Screen - Micro ABL Mount, Possibly using a microswitch and a servo to miniaturize, or I have several ideas on how to make a SUPER SMALL bed probe using a photocell/photoresistor - Laptop Strip USB Webcam Mount in the nose of the Frame - Swapping to an Aluminum Bed Plate, Magnetic Pad, and Custom PEI flex plate (Glass would not be good for little ones I'm thinking... Even with supervision) - Adding a Small silicone heater to the Bed so It can do PLA/PETG with great adhesion to PEI without need for consumables (Glue / Spray / Tape) - Swapping to a Microswiss All Metal Hot End. As I happen to have several available I want to Build it up and get it SUPER SOLID, and reliable, then pack the heck out of them and ship them to the kiddos. Mom/Dad can monitor prints from their cell phones, klipper screen shows the progress on the unit itself / has elergency stop button, and the Zero w 2 can handle pressure advance and input shaping for super quality and decent speeds. I can give them solid results to get started, then advise / troubleshoot when maintenance / eventual issues needing tech correction arise. Time to teach the next generation the skillz! Thanks Again!
I would really love to see a video of the full build from someone. It would give me a better idea of the difficulty level and if i'm going to attempt it xD
@@Rolohaun I understand I guess, most of the time would go in editing as well. I don't need to see every screw being turned but some kind of video of seeing it come together would be really cool and helpful for me personally. I'm just saying this so you or someone building one knows there are people(hope I'm not the only one) that would like to see a build video :) So don't feel any pressure or obligation please!
Nice build video, but I think you forgot to build the printer 🙃 I want to build one. Looks like a nice variety of mods are cropping up! Also be careful about dropping fasteners on those exposed pins on the back of the motherboard!
I love it. True reprap with very few vitamins. I’m going to build one with my 7 year old. He’s helped with the k3 and vorons at various points like building a voron 7 frame - but this is a printer he can build end to end. Thank you!
Yep I have for sure found my project to dump my spare parts into. I am able to print PLA,ABS,ASA,PC,PETG, TPU so I have some material choices 👌 You got an estimate of how much filament it takes to print the entire thing or even a rough idea per part(large parts only)
As a cheap alternative for Pi/laptop one could use a thin client. I got one (old and used) for equivalent of 11-12 usd. I didn't test it yet, as my rook is still being built, but it works and runs some lightweight linux distro.
Or you could use the cut feature in the slicer, print bottom side in TPU, then print the top side in whatever structural material you were going to use. CA glue should keep them both adhered.
Love it. Unfortunately is the base about 2cm to big for my current printer... Maybe i try to cut the 3 larger parts so they can be printed on a 20x20 cm bed...
I have 3 Duets (SKR, Mellow Fly) I love the RepRap OS. I have 1 Klipper running on a Pi Zero/MKS Robin E3.Duet starts up instantly via wifi. I find klipper makes we wait for the web server to run up.
Careful using a pico mainboard, you can't use a heated bed with much power. The internal traces are kind of close together (it's a tiny board) and will get hot if you run a high power heated bed. The manual is very lacking and doesn't explain power limits (unless btt updated it). Mine caught fire with an ender 3 bed at 50c because the internal traces overheated and degraded the material causing a short and a fire
@@Kajukota you can use an external mosfet to power the bed to get around this limitation. I had to do it on one of my printers. Easy to wire up and only costs a few dollars
Haven't watched the video yet, though I would recommend altering the title as I was confused on what it was saying as I thought it was using "Rook" as a verb.
This is probably going to be such a stupid question but ... why would a board running Marlin (and perhaps adding a display + rotary encoder) not work? The hardware doesn't seem too difficult to create a Marlin config for it ... and Marlin now even has input shaping, so ...
@@Rolohaun For a minimal standalone setup it might have it's benefits. Of course a pi zero 2w running Klipper and acting as a wifi AP would also allow simple connection from any device in any location to push a print to it ... If only I had the spare materials at hand to build this. I'll have to look at getting some steppers and lead screws ... I do still have an old Creality board and a pi zero 2w ... But the most critical missing resource will be time...
I have an old I3 clone, similar to but not an anet a8. Would this be able to scale up to use a 220x270 bed? It was nice when I first got in to printing but now I want to use the parts for something new.
@Rolohaun I have a wild idea I've had in mind long-term for some of my personal projects to enable larger parts, with potential tradeoffs, with a given size of print bed with flat (or mostly flat) parts: if the part designs make it feasible (I saw nothing that was clearly problematic in this video) remember you're printing a very thick plane (currently) only using 2D space for paper area, when any 3D printer has more print volume to expand the size of a 2D part with a weight problem. How do you do that? With using supports, it's simple, mathematically: tilt it at 45 degrees along the X axis, and also do that along the Y axis. I'd love to see how well that works in practice, and it'd make a nice video, wouldn't it? ;) (I have very finite space with 3 printers currently and another arriving in the next 2 weeks, and too many other projects).
@@Rolohaun my visualization is it’s a scaling of your frame, while keeping the current component holes the same, just things are stretched out by scaling made possible by rotating on the x and y axes by 45 degrees along both, by otherwise printing the same Rook frame you’d print if you have a larger printer to print with. This technique could allow some commenting their current print volumes are too small to print your current design, without modification, assuming the printers are reliable enough to do that somewhat of a printer test.
this stuff looks real interesting, i have 4 280mm rods laying around and a skr pico, been thinking to build a 280mm tall version of the rook, any thaughts?
Ist it possible to take the Komponents of an old Printer or buy cheap Printer like Ender 3 or youse the components of cheap baught defect printer of ebay? And put this in?
yes for motors and such, you will need to cut rods though and still need to order idlers and bearings, might be better to just buy new or buy a few printers that are broken. I would not buy a working printer
looks amazing and love the new colors. Im gonna have to wait a while though cause i have no idea about klipper first time ive ever even heard of it lol. but man you are doing a great job on all these printers... everyone looks better than my crap Ender 5 Pro that died in the first 40 days and around 300 bucks cheaper :/ lmao
Love the CHC-based hotend. I swapped the heater on my cheap delta printer to a CHC and it's been day and night for me. I've bookmarked the Rook and will think about building one in the future when I've got some spare cash for it... ;-)
@@Kajukota Not sure if I understand correctly. I'm not discussing using two rods/screws, but connecting the two rods via a belt and driving them with one motor. It might increase the complexity but make it a bit cheaper?
@@Rolohaun been thinking of trying out klipper on a laptop, need to find a good tutorial. That might be a great video idea for you, how to set up klipper on a laptop.
Absolutely phenomenal job 👏. Idk if you've properly patted yourself on the back for this design but it's a true reprap and I love it! I'm all for high-speed printing and fancy metal but the folks such as yourself putting in work to lower the cost and complexity of 3D printing are the true champions 🏆.
I really want to make cheaper corexy and such printers like this, they are fun to build and customize
@Rolohaun I feel like the major achievement of the Rook is that it's the first CoreXY which (at least from the perspective of someone who still has to start building it 😂) seems both easier and cheaper to put together than the average commercial bedslinger kit. That makes it a very refreshing platform.
I hope you enjoy!
ruclips.net/user/shortsfjZ77MxW-EY?feature=share
I would love to see a 250mm^3 version of the Rook!
It's gonna be a fun printer to pair with creality sonic pad, gonna start printing one in transparent petg tmr. Been reading the mods on discord and attracted by the idea of it, thanks for another amazing printer!!
Really liking the filament choices on this one. You've about got me convinced to build one after the holidays.
The series I’ve been waiting for!! Thanks so much
More to come!
In the interest of keeping costs and complexity low, I recommend the Inovato Quadra to run Klipper. It comes ready to boot Linux out of the box (power cable, enclosure, and even HDMI cable are included) and KIAUH runs on it just fine to get Klipper going.
Thanks for this video. I have all of my parts printed and have rounded up most of the hardware. I even managed to reuse some of the parts from the very first printer I built many years ago so that is fun.
Great to hear!
who a new rook nice!!
Absolutely AWESOME work here!
And printable on a 200x200? Incredible! I would say MOST of us watching this have that cabability in our printer arsenal ;-)
My Plan for this little gem, is to build one for My Grandaughter, and one for my Nephew. (8 and 11 Respectively, but with heavy nerd adult supervision in both households)
I'll be modifying a few things as follows:
- Raspi Zero w 2 with Klipper/mainsail for my MCU
- SKR3 Full Size (For them to Grow into, Or build a better Printer later on)
- Taller Base and Universal Board Mounts for Electronics built underneath
- External 300 Watt Power supply, Cased, with XT60/90 Connector
- Space for a 3.5-4.5" Klipperscreen Touch interface / Status Screen
- Micro ABL Mount, Possibly using a microswitch and a servo to miniaturize, or I have several ideas on how to make a SUPER SMALL bed probe using a photocell/photoresistor
- Laptop Strip USB Webcam Mount in the nose of the Frame
- Swapping to an Aluminum Bed Plate, Magnetic Pad, and Custom PEI flex plate (Glass would not be good for little ones I'm thinking... Even with supervision)
- Adding a Small silicone heater to the Bed so It can do PLA/PETG with great adhesion to PEI without need for consumables (Glue / Spray / Tape)
- Swapping to a Microswiss All Metal Hot End. As I happen to have several available
I want to Build it up and get it SUPER SOLID, and reliable, then pack the heck out of them and ship them to the kiddos.
Mom/Dad can monitor prints from their cell phones, klipper screen shows the progress on the unit itself / has elergency stop button, and the Zero w 2 can handle pressure advance and input shaping for super quality and decent speeds.
I can give them solid results to get started, then advise / troubleshoot when maintenance / eventual issues needing tech correction arise.
Time to teach the next generation the skillz!
Thanks Again!
Thank you, love all the ideas! Post pics on the discord for sure!!
I would really love to see a video of the full build from someone. It would give me a better idea of the difficulty level and if i'm going to attempt it xD
I thought about a real build series it would just be so long and info hard to find
@@Rolohaun I understand I guess, most of the time would go in editing as well.
I don't need to see every screw being turned but some kind of video of seeing it come together would be really cool and helpful for me personally.
I'm just saying this so you or someone building one knows there are people(hope I'm not the only one) that would like to see a build video :) So don't feel any pressure or obligation please!
Nice build video, but I think you forgot to build the printer 🙃
I want to build one. Looks like a nice variety of mods are cropping up!
Also be careful about dropping fasteners on those exposed pins on the back of the motherboard!
Also, would like to see squash ball compatible feet! I may design my own
yes I need to change the title to build tips!
I love it. True reprap with very few vitamins. I’m going to build one with my 7 year old. He’s helped with the k3 and vorons at various points like building a voron 7 frame - but this is a printer he can build end to end. Thank you!
It's technically not a true reprap because it can't print its own parts unless you cut them up.
Yep I have for sure found my project to dump my spare parts into.
I am able to print PLA,ABS,ASA,PC,PETG, TPU so I have some material choices 👌
You got an estimate of how much filament it takes to print the entire thing or even a rough idea per part(large parts only)
awesome, an example the largest part is the bed frame and its about 38m or 113g
As a cheap alternative for Pi/laptop one could use a thin client. I got one (old and used) for equivalent of 11-12 usd.
I didn't test it yet, as my rook is still being built, but it works and runs some lightweight linux distro.
yes there have been some videos of people running klipper on a thin client. As long as it can run a debian based linux you should be good
@@Rolohaun with the pi shortage it's a life saver
For the feet it could be possible to have a tpu layer on the bottom just by doing a filament change
Or you could use the cut feature in the slicer, print bottom side in TPU, then print the top side in whatever structural material you were going to use. CA glue should keep them both adhered.
Your design is a significant innovation, really impressive! Following closely, thanks for sharing this.
Thank you very much!
Loving this little printer! Currently trying out the 10mm version in some fun Polymaker PLA colors
Sparta3d has some killer filament. I don't even care about this shipping cost to the states best filament I've ever used worth the cost
Love it. Unfortunately is the base about 2cm to big for my current printer... Maybe i try to cut the 3 larger parts so they can be printed on a 20x20 cm bed...
Mine is printing right now!
Keep up the good work. This printer really looks interesting.
Love the sparkle!
i might have to gut my ender and make one of these
I have 3 Duets (SKR, Mellow Fly) I love the RepRap OS. I have 1 Klipper running on a Pi Zero/MKS Robin E3.Duet starts up instantly via wifi. I find klipper makes we wait for the web server to run up.
yes Reprap WiFi is very fast no linux needed
@Joe Schmoe I have 3 Duets and 2 Klippers. So I get to experiment. But I'm doing very basic practical prints. 3 Ender 3s and a CoreXY.
Careful using a pico mainboard, you can't use a heated bed with much power. The internal traces are kind of close together (it's a tiny board) and will get hot if you run a high power heated bed. The manual is very lacking and doesn't explain power limits (unless btt updated it). Mine caught fire with an ender 3 bed at 50c because the internal traces overheated and degraded the material causing a short and a fire
I am going to use a SKR 3 on this one
Wtf...i just got one to use with my ender 5. What a disappointment 😞
@@Kajukota you can use an external mosfet to power the bed to get around this limitation. I had to do it on one of my printers. Easy to wire up and only costs a few dollars
Very interesting good job
I’m excited to make one of these
sparkle filament goes well with barbie collections
that it would
Haven't watched the video yet, though I would recommend altering the title as I was confused on what it was saying as I thought it was using "Rook" as a verb.
thanks
This is probably going to be such a stupid question but ... why would a board running Marlin (and perhaps adding a display + rotary encoder) not work? The hardware doesn't seem too difficult to create a Marlin config for it ... and Marlin now even has input shaping, so ...
oh you can use Marlin for sure, just not my preference. There are some users on the Discord planning on using Marlin
@@Rolohaun For a minimal standalone setup it might have it's benefits. Of course a pi zero 2w running Klipper and acting as a wifi AP would also allow simple connection from any device in any location to push a print to it ...
If only I had the spare materials at hand to build this. I'll have to look at getting some steppers and lead screws ... I do still have an old Creality board and a pi zero 2w ... But the most critical missing resource will be time...
Yo, awesome video! Btw how is your pla called? And doesnt it clog often with that glitter in it? Greetings
I am using Sparta3D galaxy PLA, no issues with printing
Awesome!
Is it possible to build an extendo-rook? XD
some people on discord are working on larger ones
Subscribing to keep track of this. Super curious as to where it'll go
Can I replace the main board with an Arduino ATMEGA 2560 with an Arduino Ramps 1.4 shield. Will it affect print quality?
the Rook uses sensorless homing so you would need to modify endstops on the printer
I have an old I3 clone, similar to but not an anet a8. Would this be able to scale up to use a 220x270 bed? It was nice when I first got in to printing but now I want to use the parts for something new.
the discord has some ideas and mods, defiantly check it out!
@Rolohaun I have a wild idea I've had in mind long-term for some of my personal projects to enable larger parts, with potential tradeoffs, with a given size of print bed with flat (or mostly flat) parts: if the part designs make it feasible (I saw nothing that was clearly problematic in this video) remember you're printing a very thick plane (currently) only using 2D space for paper area, when any 3D printer has more print volume to expand the size of a 2D part with a weight problem. How do you do that?
With using supports, it's simple, mathematically: tilt it at 45 degrees along the X axis, and also do that along the Y axis.
I'd love to see how well that works in practice, and it'd make a nice video, wouldn't it? ;) (I have very finite space with 3 printers currently and another arriving in the next 2 weeks, and too many other projects).
sounds interesting, I have so many projects on the go as well. You need to make your design and show it!
@@Rolohaun my visualization is it’s a scaling of your frame, while keeping the current component holes the same, just things are stretched out by scaling made possible by rotating on the x and y axes by 45 degrees along both, by otherwise printing the same Rook frame you’d print if you have a larger printer to print with. This technique could allow some commenting their current print volumes are too small to print your current design, without modification, assuming the printers are reliable enough to do that somewhat of a printer test.
Is that sparta sparkle abrasive in your experience? Do you run it with brass nozzles?
I don't know if it is, my bambu lab x1c has a hardened nozzle. Contact sparta and they should be able to tell you for sure.
Love it! I tried to create a really small printer with nema 14 or even nema 11 but my design skills arent that great :D
keep trying!
this stuff looks real interesting, i have 4 280mm rods laying around and a skr pico, been thinking to build a 280mm tall version of the rook, any thaughts?
that might be too tall, but worst case you could always cut that rods down if it becomes a problem
nice one!
Where can I get the stl files for this. By the way great content and extraordinary work!!
Github
Ist it possible to take the Komponents of an old Printer or buy cheap Printer like Ender 3 or youse the components of cheap baught defect printer of ebay? And put this in?
yes for motors and such, you will need to cut rods though and still need to order idlers and bearings, might be better to just buy new or buy a few printers that are broken. I would not buy a working printer
looks amazing and love the new colors. Im gonna have to wait a while though cause i have no idea about klipper first time ive ever even heard of it lol. but man you are doing a great job on all these printers... everyone looks better than my crap Ender 5 Pro that died in the first 40 days and around 300 bucks cheaper :/ lmao
thats a shame you had bad luck with a ender 3, check out the discord if you want to learn more about Klipper
Love the CHC-based hotend.
I swapped the heater on my cheap delta printer to a CHC and it's been day and night for me.
I've bookmarked the Rook and will think about building one in the future when I've got some spare cash for it... ;-)
i think the rook was an succes!
Splendid project! Just wondering why use two motors for the Z, and not stay with the theme and use one and a belt?
Because the z rods improve the overall stability of the printer and z axis.
@@Kajukota Not sure if I understand correctly. I'm not discussing using two rods/screws, but connecting the two rods via a belt and driving them with one motor. It might increase the complexity but make it a bit cheaper?
it is hard to find the right size belt but I would like to make a 1 motor 3 lead screw version
for drivers and wires, u better install 5cm rubber feet :)
I checked, everything clears
Can you provide the STL for mounting the SKR 3?
I put it under STL/frame on the github
@@Rolohaun thanks boss!
What is the minimum buildplate required to print the frame? Would a prusa mini (180x180x180mm be enough ? )
a ender 3 220x220 is the minimum you can use
This is great, if doing a stand alone unit, what kind of interface device you'd want to use?
I am always going to use the web interface for control but it depends on what the user wants
@@Rolohaun been thinking of trying out klipper on a laptop, need to find a good tutorial. That might be a great video idea for you, how to set up klipper on a laptop.
@@johnnyhellfire6 Rolo already has a whole series about laptop-klipper on his channel. It's a great guide!
@@mitsubishimakes yea I just realized that after thinking to look it up again lol
I would love to see a bigger version that you can print on a 30x30 bed. Does anyone already did this mod ? My 3d modeling skills are very limited ^^'
there are talks of one on the discord!
On which printer did you print the parts? And what material?
Bambu Lab X1C, PETG+ and PLA
i bought ABS for this project. could you please make a frame for 12mm rods?
you will need to check the discord I know there is a 10mm version, someone might make a 12mm verson
@@Rolohaun i will, thank you. also, im a CNC operator working with Granite. ill make the bottom frame out of granite :P thats quicker for me lol
@@thorgraum1462 that will be awesome
@@Rolohaun i could make 2 and ship you one if youd like
...can I print it in TPU?
no too soft
wohooo