That is how I did my switch replacement. I have found some new OMC switches, but they are expensive. $110-$240. Depending on the seller. The only problem with the cheaper switches is just that. They are cheap. They break pretty easily, too. Good video for those who are having this problem.
Great video, I got one of those switches and put it in my control and just found a nylon spacer at hardware store and sanded it down to the right thickness and it worked perfect
Quite ingenious if you ask me ! I don’t have a CNC but its doable if you need one ! Lol. I’m picking up a 1978 Johnson 100 hp with controls and harness on Thursday, is that a low tension motor ? I’m swapping a 1960 Evinrude 35hp with harness and controls for it , I’m thinking it’s a good deal , don’t need one but I’ll have one ! Lol
Great fix, you fill the void with something like glue or silicone and you'll have fun when the switch dies and you need to put in a new one. Your fix allows you to replace the cheap dead switch with ease.
Thank you!!!! Just saved me some $$$$$. The stock switches are hard to find and expensive. The link to the switch does not work, but is easy to find anywhere.
@@BrandonsGarage It depends on how deteriorated the dye is in the plastic. I once took a mint green Yamaha Rhino and brought it back to a dark forrest green using a heat gun. Likewise, faded plastics on my 90s SeaDoo often can be brought back to original color. Sometimes though, the dye is leached right out of the part and no amount of re-melting the surface is going to bring it back. The lever in you video looks like it would probably come back okay.
Hey there Brandon. Can you tell me, if the propeller on a 1983 evinrude 20 can be replaced for a newer "type" propeller? It's the one with a cone at the end, with a pin through it.
Wow. Awesome! Love this channel!! Hey I asked you a few months ago about buying a 76 Johnson 9.9 or 15 carb from you. Do you have one I could buy off you? I can’t seem to find your email to send you and email.
Maybe I'm missing something about how this assembles, but a small block of plastic the right thickness glued to the back of the switch would hold it just as well???
The back on the switch has a piece of metal everywhere the plastic would contact. You would be gluing metal to plastic, in hopes it stayed through the elements of the environment, vibration of the boat, and erratic movement of the operator. This is the same concept, however its shaped so that it cannot move.
Or you could cast your filler: melt some HDPE in a toaster oven, drop a dollop into the space you need to fill, press the other half of the handle in place and let it cool off. Now trim the excess.
Nice retrofit. I cannot think of a better workaround than this. P.S. Why so stingy posting new videos? After all, don’t you exist solely for our amusement and education?
That's a brilliant solution!
Cheap, pretty easy to implement, quick and reversible. Bravo.
That is how I did my switch replacement. I have found some new OMC switches, but they are expensive. $110-$240. Depending on the seller. The only problem with the cheaper switches is just that. They are cheap. They break pretty easily, too. Good video for those who are having this problem.
Great video, I got one of those switches and put it in my control and just found a nylon spacer at hardware store and sanded it down to the right thickness and it worked perfect
Yeah, thats probably a better way....
@@BrandonsGarage I'm currently working on switching my johnson 48 out for a johnson 90 and wondering what prop I'll need
What a great idea. Keep it more coming please.
Quite ingenious if you ask me ! I don’t have a CNC but its doable if you need one ! Lol. I’m picking up a 1978 Johnson 100 hp with controls and harness on Thursday, is that a low tension motor ? I’m swapping a 1960 Evinrude 35hp with harness and controls for it , I’m thinking it’s a good deal , don’t need one but I’ll have one ! Lol
@Brandon's Garage Thanks for the video, where did you order the new handle from? I need one. lol.
Good job I never have good luck with those power pilot control boxes something always breaks
That's nice job..thanks for sharing
Thanks Brandon. You're and awesome genius.
Great fix, you fill the void with something like glue or silicone and you'll have fun when the switch dies and you need to put in a new one. Your fix allows you to replace the cheap dead switch with ease.
Thank you!!!! Just saved me some $$$$$. The stock switches are hard to find and expensive. The link to the switch does not work, but is easy to find anywhere.
Well poo,
Just don't get the blue switch, get black.
Only addition I can think of would be to take a heat gun to the chalky oxidization on the inner orange part and bring it back to its original color.
...would that work? I'll try it!
@@BrandonsGarage It depends on how deteriorated the dye is in the plastic. I once took a mint green Yamaha Rhino and brought it back to a dark forrest green using a heat gun. Likewise, faded plastics on my 90s SeaDoo often can be brought back to original color. Sometimes though, the dye is leached right out of the part and no amount of re-melting the surface is going to bring it back. The lever in you video looks like it would probably come back okay.
I like the trim switch fix , but I have no idea what brand of aftermarket switch you used that fit in the handle
I have the same trouble with my handle and switch. Where can we get the both?
could you use hot glue as just a filler and also easy to remove later?
Yep, my switch seems to have quit. Trim motor works fine if you hook it up directly to power.
Brandon, after the fix (Great Job!), where/ how do I find the "proper" end splice? Where can I find them?
Nice fix, you could achieve something similar with a 3D printer too 👍
Hey there Brandon. Can you tell me, if the propeller on a 1983 evinrude 20 can be replaced for a newer "type" propeller? It's the one with a cone at the end, with a pin through it.
Wow. Awesome! Love this channel!! Hey I asked you a few months ago about buying a 76 Johnson 9.9 or 15 carb from you. Do you have one I could buy off you? I can’t seem to find your email to send you and email.
just fill the space with silicone caulking? and assembal before it hardens
Maybe I'm missing something about how this assembles, but a small block of plastic the right thickness glued to the back of the switch would hold it just as well???
The back on the switch has a piece of metal everywhere the plastic would contact.
You would be gluing metal to plastic, in hopes it stayed through the elements of the environment, vibration of the boat, and erratic movement of the operator.
This is the same concept, however its shaped so that it cannot move.
Hot melt glue works great! used it several times.
nice job
You making these spacers to sell ?
It’s a win.
So I just seen a replacement option for this where the switch was epoxied in. It's not serviceable but maybe a solution.
Was this from the dude on ebay?
Or you could cast your filler: melt some HDPE in a toaster oven, drop a dollop into the space you need to fill, press the other half of the handle in place and let it cool off. Now trim the excess.
THUMBS-UP!!!!!!!!!
I would've just epoxied it in. By the time you need to replace the switch, the whole shift control will be in the weeds.
Yeah, that is probably very true...
Nice retrofit. I cannot think of a better workaround than this. P.S. Why so stingy posting new videos? After all, don’t you exist solely for our amusement and education?
Loose the white background. Just a suggestion kind Sir.